A THINKING MAN’S GUIDE TO
VOYAGES SOUTH:
THE MANY FACETS OF
CARIBBEAN
CRUISING
by
Frank Virgintino
Edition 3.0
Copyright © 2011 by Frank Virgintino. All rights reserved. This eBook is
nonfiction. It is copyright material which may be reproduced provided that
attribution is given immediately following the reproduced information. Any
unattributed use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s
rights and those responsible may be liable accordingly.
Edition 2.0
Edition 3.0
March 2012
December 2012
www.freecruisingguides.com
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
2
PRAISE FOR A THINKING MAN’S
GUIDE TO VOYAGES SOUTH
There is much more to this guide than essential sailing instruction. The amount of
research that has gone into preparing this guide is simply staggering. This is the sailors’
encyclopedia of how to get to, cruise, and explore the islands of the Caribbean. This
guide will make you throw off the lines; haul up the sails, and go. Virgintino is at the top
of his game.
-- Gary E. Brown, Editorial Director
All at Sea Magazine
--extremely well written, covering all aspects with practicalities, facts and humour. I was
so engrossed that I burnt my supper which was forgotten on the stove!! I am so happy
that finally someone has recognised that the Caribbean does include the amazing and
totally different economical, cultural, historical and geographical islands of the North
West Caribbean. I am constantly amazed how few people have any idea where they are or
what they have to offer! This book will be a great boost for the boating economy of the
islands (and) your comments on security issues were well balanced and realistic.
--Judy Bullmore
Cayman Islander and off shore cruiser
Like respected authors before him, Frank Virgintino presents comprehensive advice on
just about everything North American sailors will need to know get to the Caribbean
safely and enjoy a cruise here. The big difference is that Virgintino takes a wide-angled
look at sailing to and cruising in the Caribbean — the WHOLE Caribbean. Virgintino’s
fresh perspective on the big picture is a gift. He urges cruisers to get off “the beaten
paths” and consider a number of viable routes from various jumping-off points on the
East Coast to various “entrances” into, and landfalls in, the Caribbean. His division of the
Caribbean into four quadrants is a neat and functional way of comprehending this vast
cruising area, and of getting over the idea that the Lesser Antilles alone are “the
Caribbean”.
--Sally Erdle, Editor
Caribbean Compass
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
3
As an aspiring Caribbean cruiser A Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South has opened
my eyes to the full potential of the Caribbean as a cruising ground. The routes Virgintino
profiles are seldom discussed elsewhere to this extent. A must-read whether you’re in the
trip planning phase or already there on the hook – in either case his insights will show
you something you might otherwise miss.
--Andrew McVicker, Lt Col, USAF
Frank Virgintino offers an indispensable free service to the Caribbean cruising
community with his numerous free cruising guides, and has done it again, this time with a
much-needed guide for those heading to the Caribbean from North America.
Frank applies his experience, knowledge and humour to prepare both those new to
Caribbean cruising and seasoned cruisers alike. He covers all aspects of cruising in this
part of the world including weather and Gulf Stream information, routing, getting work
done, safety and security, plus the choice of routes to the Caribbean from North America.
This is a worthy read and useful reference for all Caribbean cruisers, not just those
hailing from North America. A welcome update to “A Gentleman’s Guide to Passages
South”, by Bruce Van Sant.
--Sue Richards, Editor
Noonsite.com
Excellent work by Frank Virgintino, and, yes, the SSCA archives are priceless. This
book is an excellent overview of key aspects of cruising – tropics or world oceans. The
emphasis placed on paths to the tropics is very timely. It happens that your guides have
been lifesavers, especially for the many boats going to and from Haiti with relief aid. We
are looking forward to additional guides from this author.
--Joan Conover
SSCA CS Coordinator
SV Growltiger
Thank you very much for your free cruising guides for DR, Haiti, Caymans, Jamaica, and
this book. You made my day! The book is really amazing!! My wife got crazy… because
for 8 hours I read without a single break. Great to have some background of that area.
We are now with our boat in Aruba. Our next stop is Boca Chica (DR), and from there
it’s on to Haiti, Caymans, Jamaica and Cuba, so for the most part you will be our guide.
--Rudy Schellingerhout
S/V Prairie Fox
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
4
CONTENTS
PRAISE FOR A THINKING MAN’S GUIDE TO VOYAGES SOUTH ........................................... 3
INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................................... 14
THE INTENDED VOYAGE~ THE ROUTES ~ THE CHALLENGE .............................. 14
WHERE ARE YOU HEADED? ........................................................................................ 18
UNDERSTANDING WHAT IS MEANT BY “THE CARIBBEAN” IN THE
CONTEXT OF AN OLD SALT ......................................................................................... 19
WHAT MUST I DO TO REALIZE MY DREAM? ............................................................. 24
BOOKS FOR REFERENCE .................................................................................................. 26
CRUISING GUIDES ............................................................................................................... 28
NORTH QUADRANT GUIDES ........................................................................................ 29
EAST QUADRANT GUIDES ............................................................................................ 30
SOUTHEAST QUADRANT GUIDES .............................................................................. 30
SOUTHWEST QUADRANT GUIDES ............................................................................. 31
PREPARATION Part 1~ THE VESSEL........................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
POPULAR EQUIPMENT ........................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
ANCHORS ................................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
ELECTRONICS ....................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
RADAR….................................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
AIS (Automatic Identification System)................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
GPS and CHART PLOTTERS ............................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
BAROMETER .......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
DINGHY.................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
OVERBOARD RAFT .............................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
DC SYSTEMS........................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
WATER MAKER..................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
5
REFRIGERATION .................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
SAILS ........................................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
AWNINGS/VENTILATION ................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
RIGGING .................................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
WINCHES ................................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
AUTOPILOT ............................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
COMMUNICATION ............................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
COMPUTERS .......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
FUEL FILTERS ....................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
LIGHTING ............................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
SPARE PARTS ......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
PREPARATION Part 2: THE CREW ............................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
PREPARATION Part 3: Weather .................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
TRIPLE WEATHER PREPARATION ..................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
PREPARATION Part 4: The Voyage ............................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
THE GULF STREAM ............................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
WHEN DO I CROSS THE GULF STREAM? ...................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
DETAILS OF ROUTES TO, AND ENTRANCES INTO, THE CARIBBEAN ............. Error!
Bookmark not defined.
ROUTE 1 ~ OFFSHORE TO BERMUDA ................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
KEYS TO ROUTE ONE PASSAGE ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
ROUTE 2 ~ OFFSHORE TO THE TRADE WINDS~ALTERNATE ROUTES ......... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
ROUTE 2a~From the mouth of Chesapeake Bay to Tortola, BVI .... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
ROUTE 2b~Morehead City or Hilton Head (or any point in between) to the Windward
Passage....................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
KEYS TO ROUTE TWO PASSAGE (ALL ROUTES) .................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
ROUTE 3~HARBOR HOPPING AND ISLAND HOPPING to the Windward Passage or
the Mona Passage ......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
KEYS TO ROUTE THREE PASSAGE ......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
ROUTE 4 Entrance into Caribbean at west end of Cuba...... Error! Bookmark not defined.
KEYS TO ROUTE FOUR PASSAGE........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
LANDFALL~Planning your cruise ............................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
6
BEST WAY TO CRUISE THE CARIBBEAN: CLOCKWISE .......... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
STARTING POINT FOR YOUR CARIBBEAN CRUISE ........... Error! Bookmark not defined.
INTO THE CARIBBEAN FROM OFFSHORE ....................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
INTO THE CARIBBEAN THROUGH THE WINDWARD PASSAGE .... Error! Bookmark
not defined.
INTO THE CARIBBEAN THROUGH THE MONA PASSAGE ......... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
INTO THE CARIBBEAN FROM THE WEST END OF CUBA .......... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
CRUISING BY QUADRANT ..................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
CRUISING CARIBBEAN QUADRANT N ............................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
QUADRANT N PASSAGE NOTES ........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
CRUISING CARIBBEAN QUADRANT E ............................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
THE LESSER ANTILLES ~THE LEEWARD AND WINDWARD ISLANDS --QUADRANT E ......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
QUADRANT E PASSAGE NOTES: ........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
CRUISING CARIBBEAN QUADRANT SE ............................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
VENEZUELA ........................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
ABC ISLANDS ......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
LOOKING AHEAD TO THE SOUTHWEST QUADRANT ............ Error! Bookmark not
defined.
QUADRANT SE PASSAGE NOTES.......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
CRUISING CARIBBEAN QUADRANT SW ............................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
WEST INTO THE SOUTHWEST QUADRANT ................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
ALL THINGS CONSIDERED~AN ALTERNATIVE ROUTE ........ Error! Bookmark not
defined.
QUADRANT SW PASSAGE NOTES ........................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
CLOSING THE CIRCLE: BACK TO QUADRANT N ........... Error! Bookmark not defined.
CARIBBEAN TOPICS ................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
SAILING AT NIGHT AND COMMERCIAL SHIPPING ...... Error! Bookmark not defined.
CARIBBEAN WEATHER .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
TERMS AND DEFINITIONS OF PHRASES YOU MAY HEAR IN CARIBBEAN
WEATHER REPORTS ........................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
7
WHERE SHOULD I STAY DURING HURRICANE SEASON ~ REVISITED ..... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
SECURITY IN THE CARIBBEAN............................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
PIRACY ........................................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
THEFT AT ANCHOR ................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
AVOIDANCE ............................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
BOAT REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE IN THE CARIBBEAN~ ..... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
CONTRACTING BOAT WORK ~ the Art of the Deal............ Error! Bookmark not defined.
HOW TO GET THE WORK DONE ON YOUR BOAT.......... Error! Bookmark not defined.
KEY POINTS: .......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
SUMMARY................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
BIBLIOGRAPHY .......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
SPONSOR and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS .................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR ................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
By FRANK VIRGINTINO ............................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
8
TABLE OF FIGURES
Figure 1. MAP OF VOYAGE AREA ........................................................................................... 13
Figure 2. THE BAHAMAS EXTEND SOUTHEAST~INTO THE TRADE WINDS ................. 15
Figure 3. THE CARIBBEAN SEA ~ OVER 1,000,000 SQUARE MILES .................................. 18
Figure 4. THE CARIBBEAN IN FOUR QUADRANTS .............................................................. 29
Figure 5. BEAUFORT SCALE ......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 6. FUEL FILTER DIAGRAM ............................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 7. 3D VIEW OF THE ANTILLES ARC AND THE PUERTO RICO TRENCH ........ Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 8. THE PUERTO RICO TRENCH RELATIVE TO THE CARIBBEAN BASIN ....... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 9. DESECHEO ISLAND AND THE MONA RIFT .............. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 10. PERCENTAGE OF TIME TRADE WINDS DO NOT BLOW, BY MONTH ...... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 11. THE CORIOLIS EFFECT ............................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 12. CARIBBEAN SEA .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 13. GULF STREAM~THE RIVER WITHIN THE SEA....... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 14. DETAIL OF CURRENT FLOWS, CARIBBEAN TO NORTH ATLANTIC ....... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 15. CURRENT VELOCITIES: FLORIDA AND HATTERAS .......... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
Figure 16. COLD FRONT DYNAMICS ........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 17. FRONT: INTERACTION OF COLD AND WARM AIR MASSES ... Error! Bookmark
not defined.
Figure 18. THE CARIBBEAN RELATIVE TO US EAST COAST CITIES . Error! Bookmark not
defined.
Figure 19. ROUTE ONE PASSAGE ................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 20. Route 1~OFFSHORE TO THE EASTERN CARIBBEAN VIA BERMUDA ....... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 21. Route 2A~TO THE EASTERN CARIBBEAN FROM CHESAPEAKE BAY ...... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 22. CARIBBEAN 1500 EXCERPT FROM LATITUDE 38 (2010) ..... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
9
Figure 23. Route 2B~OFFSHORE TO THE TRADES, MODIFIED TO WINDWARD
PASSAGE ......................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 24. ROUTE TWO PASSAGE ................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 25. ROUTE 3~HARBOR AND ISLAND HOPPING ........... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 26. PUERTO RICO TRENCH AND MONA RIFT .............. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 27. HISPANIOLA (DOMINICAN REPUBLIC AND HAITI) ........... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
Figure 28. KEYS TO ROUTE THREE PASSAGE .......................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 29. ROUTE 4~BACK DOOR TO THE CARIBBEAN: WEST AROUND CUBA ..... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 30. THE LOOP CURRENT – WHY WE HUG THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF CUBA
........................................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 31. KEYS TO ROUTE FOUR PASSAGE............................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 32. THE CARIBBEAN IN QUANDRANTS ........................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 33. OVERVIEW OF CURRENTS THROUGHOUT THE CARIBBEAN Error! Bookmark
not defined.
Figure 34. VARIOUS CURRENTS ENTERING THE EAST END OF THE CARIBBEAN AT
ITS SOUTH SIDE PRODUCE A STRONG WESTERLY FLOW. .. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 35. ENTRY POINTS INTO NORTHERN CARIBBEAN: WEST CUBA, WINDWARD
PASSAGE, MONA PASSAGE, AND VIRGIN ISLAND PASSAGES ........ Error! Bookmark not
defined.
Figure 36. QUADRANT N – THE GREATER ANTILLES............. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 37. QUADRANT N PASSAGE NOTES ............................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 38. QUADRANT E ................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 39. LEEWARD ISLANDS..................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 40. WINDWARD ISLANDS ................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 41. QUADRANT E PASSAGE NOTES................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 42. THE LEEWARD AND WINDWARD ISLANDS .......... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 43. IN THE LAST 140 YEARS ONLY ONE HURRICANE HAS HIT TRINIDAD AND
THAT WAS 1873 ............................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 44. QUADRANT SE: VENEZUELA TO COLOMBIA ....... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 45. CUMULATIVE REPORTED CRIMES AGAINST CRUISERS IN THE
VENEZUELAN ISLANDS, 2008-2012 ........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 46. CUMULATIVE REPORTED CRIMES AGAINST CRUISERS ALONG THE
VENEZUELAN MAINLAND, 2008-2012 ...................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 47. ARUBA – CURACAO -- BONAIRE .............................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 48. THE SOUTHWEST QUADRANT, FEATURING THE ‘HOLE’, WITH
PROVIDENCIA AND SAN ANDRES ISLANDS........................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 49. QUADRANT SE NOTES ................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 50. WESTERN CARIBBEAN ~ AN OVERVIEW ............... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 51. GETTING THERE FROM HERE: EVERYWHERE RELATIVE TO THE ABCS
........................................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
10
Figure 52. COLOMBIA..................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 53. FEBRUARY PILOT CHART .......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 54. SAN BLAS ARCHIPELAGO AND PANAMA .............. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 55. PROVIDENCIA AND SAN ANDRÉS ........................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 56. CAYOS CAJONES----HOBBIE CAYS .......................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 57. QUADRANT SW NOTES ............................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 58. TRANS CARIBBEAN CONNECTIONS ........................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 59. ROUTES FROM CARTAGENA TO JAMAICA AND CENTRAL AMERICAN
DESTINATIONS .............................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 60. LITTLE CAYMAN .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 61. THE HONDURAN BAY ISLAND ARCHIPELAGO AND CAYOS COCHINOS
........................................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 62. THE CARIBBEAN .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 63. THE CARIBBEAN IN QUADRANTS ........................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 64. THE “WESTERN” CARIBBEAN ................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 65. ROUTES BACK TO THE AMERICAS .......................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 66. GLOBAL WIND SYSTEMS ........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 67. TRADE WINDS (YELLOW) .......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 68. SAFFIR-SIMPSON HURRICANE SCALE .................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 69. JUNE WEATHER MAP .................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 70. JANUARY WEATHER MAP WITH HIGH PRESSURE SYSTEM .. Error! Bookmark
not defined.
Figure 71. CORIOLIS EFFECT REVISITED................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 72. PREDICTIVE HURRICANE TRACKS, SEPTEMBER . Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 73. PREDICTIVE HURRICANE TRACKS, OCTOBER ..... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 74. HURRICANE TRACKS—1860 to PRESENT................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 75. INCIDENCE OF HURRICANES AND TROPICAL STORMS BY MONTH OVER
100 YEARS ....................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 76. MAJOR HURRICANE PATHS SINCE 1960 (NO TROPICAL STORMS) ......... Error!
Bookmark not defined.
Figure 77. TROPICAL STORM AND HURRICANE PATHS, 2000-2009.... Error! Bookmark not
defined.
Figure 78. THE CARIBBEAN -- SEA OF DREAMS ...................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
11
A Thinking Man’s
Guide
to
Voyages South:
THE MANY FACETS OF CARIBBEAN CRUISING
Frank Virgintino
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
12
DEDICATED to all the cruising sailors who have
dreamed and worked so hard for so many years to
cruise south to the Caribbean. May all of your
dreams come true and may this voyage meet all of
your expectations. Always leave a clean wake.
Frank Virgintino
Figure 1. MAP OF VOYAGE AREA
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
13
The voyage south to the
Caribbean is not really a trip
south; IT IS A TRIP EAST!
INTRODUCTION
THE INTENDED VOYAGE~ THE ROUTES
~ THE CHALLENGE
Look at Tortola, British Virgin Islands, on the map above. Note how far
EAST of mainland North America it is. This is the most important thing to
recognize when planning your voyage south: The voyage south to the
Caribbean is not really a trip south, IT IS A TRIP EAST!
Making your easting is the challenge on the voyage to the Eastern
Caribbean. Cruisers head for Bermuda and then go south because they want
to get their “easting” out of the way. .
But you can also depart from the mid coast of the United States (Maryland
through South Carolina), pick up the trade winds, and set a course to the
Caribbean via a number of routes. Or if you do not like to go offshore, you
can hop all the way down stopping at harbors and anchorages along the way.
You can depart late spring/early summer or in the fall from late October to
early November. Which route, which strategy, and when to depart are all
dependent on:
The type of boat you have
How much experience you have
The type of passage you favor, and
How much time you have.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
14
Figure 2. THE BAHAMAS EXTEND SOUTHEAST~INTO THE TRADE WINDS
Note on this map that the Bahamas extend to the southeast and that the
heading from the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos is EASTERLY to the
LESSER ANTILLES (Virgin Islands, Leeward and Windward Islands).
With prevailing winds from the EAST (trade winds) strongest in December
through January (Christmas Winds), the wind will head you more often than
not. On average the best that you can hope for is a very close reach and
most often it is a beat, or motoring without wind.
Consider also that the north coasts of the Dominican Republic and Puerto
Rico face the Atlantic Ocean. The Atlantic side of the islands of the
Caribbean is almost always rougher than the Caribbean side and a lee shore
as well.
Many times when routes to the Caribbean are discussed, the object is to get
to the eastern Caribbean as quickly as possible. The eastern Caribbean is
NOT the entire Caribbean; it is one part of the Caribbean.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
15
Which route you plan to use to come to the Caribbean will determine
where you “enter” the Caribbean and that will determine how you will
proceed with your Caribbean cruise.
There are many “entrances” into the
Caribbean.
From the West one can enter between
One VAST Caribbean,
Cuba and Mexico. This is an entrance
that “Gulf sailors” have used over the
many entrances
years. Because of the way “The
Caribbean” has been defined to be the
Lesser Antilles, even those sailors
who harbor hop to the Caribbean
overlook this easy way in. It is located so very close to the south tip of
Florida and the Florida Keys. If you are willing to cruise the south coast of
Cuba, then this is an entrance that deserves consideration. The south coast
of Cuba is simply one cay after another in the lee of a very large island.
From its midpoint, Cienfuegos, the nighttime (katabatic) winds can be used
to go east all the way to Port Antonio at the northeast end of Jamaica.
The Windward Passage enters the Caribbean at its north central point. The
entrance is wide and easily navigated. It is oriented to the SW which allows
for advantageous use of the prevailing trade winds, especially when the wind
is northeast. Cruisers have avoided this passage, perhaps because they think
that a passage between Cuba and Haiti is dangerous. Coming from North
America, I believe this is the easiest, and safest, way into the Caribbean. If
your insurance does not cover your boat in Haiti, transiting this passage
does not constitute cruising through Haiti. Once through this passage, you
have a large number of choices as to landfall. Best of all, you ARE in the
Caribbean and out of the Atlantic!
The Mona Passage, between the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico,
favors arriving to the east side of the Caribbean. This entrance has been used
for many years by those who “island hop” to the Caribbean. It is the entrance
that Bruce Van Sant uses to transit his “Thornless Path to Windward”. I do
not like this entrance because it requires the transit of the north coast of the
Dominican Republic; a very dangerous lee shore. Additionally, the Mona
Passage requires passing through waters that are proximate to the Mona Rift.
This seismically active area connects the deepest part of the Atlantic with a
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
16
very large shoal that is part of the east side of the DR. In certain conditions,
the area is untenable. The cape (Cabo Engano) located here only serves to
complicate matters. If you choose to transit this passage, be sure that you
know the weather forecast and follow Van Sant’s instructions carefully.
Last is the entrance through the British Virgin Islands which has been
favored by offshore sailors for many years. This is because when “heading
to the Caribbean” first became a destination for cruising sailors, it is the
Lesser Antilles that was being referred to.
Today this chain of islands has become known as the “Beaten Path”. It is
“beaten” because so many have cruised it for so many years.
The Caribbean Basin map (Figure 3) allows you to see the immense size of
the Caribbean Sea. The Caribbean is a region consisting of the Caribbean
Sea itself, its islands, and the surrounding coasts. The region is located
southeast of the Gulf of Mexico and North America, east of Central
America, and north of South America. It is over 1,000,000 -- one million -square miles and approximately 1600 nautical miles across at its widest.
From north to south it is over 500 nautical miles in most places. The current
throughout the Caribbean Sea runs an average of 1 knot from EAST TO
WEST.
The Caribbean Sea is diverse as to countries and cultures. One of the
longest shorelines is Venezuela. The largest island is Cuba. Most of the
smaller islands are located in the Lesser Antilles. Some of the mainland
countries are quite extensive and, with the exception of Belize, are all
Spanish speaking. The Lucayan Archipelago -- the Bahamas and the Turks
and Caicos -- is not part of the Caribbean. When they are added in, the area
is then generally referred to as the West Indies. They cannot be part of the
Caribbean, because they are not in or bordering on the Caribbean Sea.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
17
Figure 3. THE CARIBBEAN SEA ~ OVER 1,000,000 SQUARE MILES
The Antilles islands (the name in French; Antillas in Spanish; Antillen in
Dutch; and Antilhas in Portuguese) represent the most eastern part of the
Caribbean. They are divided into two major groups: The "Greater Antilles"
to the north and west, and the smaller (in size, not number) "Lesser Antilles"
to the southeast—comprised of the northerly Virgin Islands and Leeward
Islands, and the Windward Islands to the southeast.
The islands of the Caribbean are a long, partly volcanic, island arc, most of
which wrap around the eastern end of the Caribbean Sea forming a boundary
with the Atlantic Ocean. The island chain extends to just north of South
America. In geologic terms, the Greater Antilles are made up of continental
rock, while the Lesser Antilles are mostly young volcanic or coral islands.
WHERE ARE YOU HEADED?
Q. Where are you headed?
A. We are preparing our boat for a trip to the Caribbean.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
18
Q. What is your destination?
A. Tortola, British Virgin Islands.
Whether you voyage with a rally like the Caribbean 1500 or you read
articles about sailing to the Caribbean, remember that almost all references
are to the eastern Caribbean.
UNDERSTANDING WHAT IS MEANT BY “THE
CARIBBEAN” IN THE CONTEXT OF AN OLD
SALT
Whenever a conversation comes up about the Caribbean one of the starting
points in the conversation must of necessity be the work of Donald Street.
Street started cruising the Caribbean on his boat Iolaire (wooden and
without motor) more than a half century ago. He is considered by most to be
the “Dean of Caribbean Cruising”. They say there is not a rock that he does
not know personally (probably having banged into them after too many
“green sandwiches” ~ warm Heinekens). He had no GPS, no refrigeration,
no chart plotters, wind vanes, solar panels or banks of batteries. He had only
a desire to sail the islands where the trade winds blow.
He is the author of many books, guides and fine articles. In 2010 he wrote an
article for Caribbean Compass, a free monthly newspaper for Caribbean
sailors, entitled “SAILING SOUTH FROM THE US EAST COAST TO
THE CARIBBEAN”. It prompted me to send the following response which
was printed as Letter of the Month.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
19
Dear Compass (March 2010)
As a follow up to Don Street’s reply in the March issue of
CARIBBEAN COMPASS regarding passages south from the US
Coast to the Caribbean I would like to comment as follows. First,
we all need to congratulate Don Street for he was recently chosen
by SAIL magazine as a MOST INFLUENTIAL SAILOR who has
affected recreational boating over the last 40 years. His award is
clearly earned. What Don has forgotten as a sailor, most of us will
never even learn, notwithstanding that he appears to have forgotten
the largest part of the Caribbean and the largest islands in it as
well. He says that there is an old saying that “gentlemen do not
beat to windward”, to which his wife Trish replies that she
obviously “did not marry a gentleman”. I tend to agree with Trish
but not because of any desire to denigrate Don, but rather to praise
him for being the great sailor that he is. However, sailors DO SAIL
TO WINDWARD when they have to and when they so choose.
Sailing to windward is a fact of sailing life and knowing how to do
it well is an advantage.
Don’s original article was entitled SAILING SOUTH FROM THE
US EAST COAST TO THE CARIBBEAN. My complaint was not
that Don did not mention the Dominican Republic, but that the
article was mistitled. It should have been entitled, SAILING
FROM THE US EAST COAST TO THE EASTERN
CARIBBEAN.
Don Street references the Caribbean as roughly defined from the
Virgin Islands to Grenada. In reading Don’s response, he points
out that distance is a factor in routing. Contrary to Bruce Van
Sant’s concept of a thornless path heading south, Don points out
that the thornless path may very well be 2,000 miles compared to
1,100 miles via Don’s recommended offshore route. This is
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
20
certainly true. However, many sailors do not want to travel
offshore when heading south for a variety of reasons, including
such mundane ones as trying to avoid divorce. Don’s route
requires an offshore passage; a significant offshore passage. If one
likes offshore passages then Don’s route is the one for you provided
that you want to go to the Virgin Islands.
If you do not want to make an offshore passage, then Bruce Van
Sant’s book, PASSAGES SOUTH/The Thornless Path to Windward
makes a great deal of sense, which explains why it has been a Bible
for so many southbound sailors. While the passage is longer, and
the going is counter to the wind, the hops in the passage may be
more appealing to many sailors. Bruce Van Sant definitely
demonstrates his knowledge in working through the trade winds
rather than fighting them. From a sheer count the number of
sailors who come south via the thornless path each year clearly
outnumbers the offshore group by a significant percentage. It
would be wise, however, to consider utilizing the Windward
Passage as compared to the Mona Passage when following the
Thornless Path.
In no way am I arguing that one route is better than the other;
only that different people choose different approaches to sailing
and no one approach is better than another. It depends on what
one’s objectives are.
Don’s biases are clear when he says you can visit the Dominican
Republic, after you have arrived in the Virgins and from there,
then a straight shot for Grenada. Why go to Grenada if you want
to cruise to the Dominican Republic? He says that you cruise up
the island chain from Grenada and that when you reach western
Puerto Rico “if heading to the northeast coast of the States, it is on
to Bermuda and the States; if heading to the southern part of the
States, continue west to the Dominican Republic and Haiti and on
to the States via the Old Bahama channel”. Why, Don?
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
21
Why miss the Dominican Republic and Caribbean islands in the
northern part of the Caribbean simply because you are heading to
the northeast coast of the states? For example, what if one wanted
to visit the Dominican Republic, the ABC islands, Jamaica, and
Colombia? In fact, if one were headed south from the States and
decided to cruise the Dominican Republic, the ABC islands,
Jamaica and Colombia, why would one go to Grenada first and
then head back? It is not that I favor the Northwestern Caribbean
over the Southeastern Caribbean but rather that I believe we need
to get past the idea that all cruising boats headed south from the
USA need commence in Beaufort/Morehead City and conclude in
Grenada via the Virgin Islands. That is one route from the USA to
the Eastern Caribbean. WORLD CRUISING ROUTES clearly
indicates there are many routes to the Caribbean, depending on
what part of the Caribbean you want to visit.
Cuba is approximately750 miles long, has a coastline of slightly
over 2000 miles plus more than 4,000 islands (or 2334 miles
including islands), and 11,000,000 inhabitants. The Dominican
Republic is 245 miles long, has a coastline of 805 miles and a
population of over 9,000,000. Either country could easily hold
every island in the Caribbean and have space left over. When we
speak of visiting Caribbean islands and cultures, we must take into
account that the word islands includes Cuba which is immense, as
well as Grenada which is relatively small. Clearly size of the
island is not the litmus test for what you will find, but it suggests
that with coastlines approximating 800 miles, they should not be
overlooked either. Moreover, most of these coastlines are
completely virgin and uncrowded.
It is what the SE Caribbean was when Don first arrived there so
many years ago. It was innocent, uncrowded and beautiful (I have
a Caribbean soul, that I can barely control). Things change and it
is time for the cruising community to try something new when
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
22
“going to the Caribbean”. Aside from the Dominican Republic,
Colombia is now a safe and truly wonderful place to visit. The
north coast of Jamaica leaves one breathless. The islands of
Honduras are extraordinary. The Rio Dulce in Guatemala is a trip
back in time. And one day in the not too far future, even Americans
will be able to stop in Cuba legally.
Pull out your chart kit, Don. Take a look at the size of the
CARIBBEAN; the entire Caribbean. One could easily leave the
US and head SE until the “butter melts” and take a heading for the
Windward Passage. In prevailing conditions there is no beating on
that route. Once through the Windward Passage, one has a whole
number of choices as to where to cruise that include: Jamaica,
Cuba, Mexico, the Cayman Islands, the islands of Honduras,
Guatemala, Colombia, the ABC islands and the Dominican
Republic. In fact one could literally tack back and forth across the
Caribbean Sea using the easterly trades to their advantage. Page
132 of Jimmy Cornell’s book, WORLD CRUISING ROUTES, 6th
Edition, clearly demonstrates the possibilities.
The purpose of the foregoing is to be sure that you do not set sail on
automatic. You may go to the Eastern Caribbean but you do not have
to go there to go to the Caribbean. The Caribbean Sea is immense and
you must decide what part(s) you want to visit, when and for how long.
There is no one best part or best strategy.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
23
WHAT MUST I DO TO REALIZE MY
DREAM?
“HONEY, LET’S NOT BE HASTY. WE NEED TO DISCUSS THIS A
LITTLE MORE BEFORE WE DECIDE TO SIMPLY UP AND GO!”
If you are thinking of sailing to the Caribbean, stop discussing it and do
it. Start planning and set a departure date.
Since Joshua Slocum first sailed the yacht Spray around the world, our
imaginations have been fueled by a sense of freedom and faraway places.
Places that glisten in the sun where one can truly relax.
Heading south in the fall to the Caribbean is a rite of passage for the North
American east coast cruising sailor. The question has long been how best to
do it. With very few exceptions most of the commentary is on routing and
only routing. When I read the books that have been written on the subject, it
seems to me that each author favors a particular route and then reinforces
why it is best.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
24
FEW THINGS LOOK AS GOOD TO THE NORTH AMERICAN SAILOR AS
DOES THE SIGHT OF THE CARIBBEAN UNDER BLUE SKIES WITH
CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER.
Some authors speak of heading offshore and sailing south “until the butter
melts” and then picking up the trade winds.
Other authors have argued that there is a “thornless path” that can be
followed by island hopping as a strategy to head south and east. It is a
strategy wherein you use “holes and stops” in the trades to head easterly.
Some sailors join events such as the Caribbean 1500 Rally, which bills itself
as “the largest and longest running offshore cruising event in the Americas”.
They depart from Hampton, Virginia usually about the end of the first week
of November each year and head for Tortola, BVI.
Prior to departing, the Rally does a wonderful job of helping skippers
prepare their boats and their crews for the voyage. The work they do to help
prepare goes beyond which route is best to take. For anyone considering
this trip, it is wise to have them prepare you or undertake the recommended
preparations on your own. The mistake that many make is to decide on a
route, provision the boat, fill the fuel tank and take off. That is why so many
voyages end unsuccessfully.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
25
Whether you go with a group like the Caribbean 1500 or on your own,
whether you go offshore or by island hopping, whether you have many crew
or plan to do it solo, the question is how to prepare your vessel and what
to expect.
Preparing a vessel to cruise great distances is an art in itself and there are
many ways to approach this task. To make a voyage from North America to
the Caribbean requires preparation of the vessel and the crew, and
preparation in many others areas as well.
Research is a vitally important factor; how and what to research are equally
important. There are many ways to conduct the research that will provide
the information that is needed.
We can speak with other cruisers who have made the trip and to the extent
that we cannot always do this in person, we can turn to the computer and
research relevant blogs, of which there are many, where we can read and
even interact and ask questions. Additionally, rallies like the Caribbean
1500 do a tremendous amount of the research and pass it on to the
participants through seminars and training. We can also turn to books, of
which there are also many.
BOOKS FOR REFERENCE
Some of my favorites which I have found extremely useful for the
voyage through the Atlantic to the Caribbean are as follows. The list is
not meant to suggest that there are no other books; there are in fact
many, and many of them are excellent.
World Cruising Routes, Jimmy Cornell (any edition).
Jimmy Cornell is an experienced and trustworthy person who has
written a number of useful books. Additionally he was responsible
for the creation of the Internet site, Noonsite (www.noonsite.com ).
Atlantic Pilot Atlas, James Clark (any edition).
I can’t imagine any cruise through the Atlantic and Caribbean
without being able to consult this Atlas.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
26
OR
The recently published (2012) Cornell’s Ocean Atlas, Jimmy &
Ivan Cornell.
The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South, Bruce Van Sant (any
edition).
Many sailors have read this book and consider it “the Bible”. It has
advice on how to essentially avoid offshore routing to make
passage to the Eastern Caribbean by island hopping and by sailing
the “thornless passage to windward”.
Seven Seas Cruising Association---Membership and Bulletins.
This association has been around a very long time and has
thousands of members. Their monthly bulletin is filled with useful
advice and their archives are priceless.
Mariner’s Weather Handbook, (1998) Steve & Linda Dashew.
There are many books on marine weather. This one at well over
500 pages is neither short nor simple. However, if you really want
to learn about marine weather, this is the book. It requires careful
reading and time and effort but when you come to understand it,
you will have a working knowledge of marine weather that few
sailors can boast.
Sailing Directions Pub. 147 Vol. 1 Caribbean Sea, Bermuda,
Bahamas, & Caribbean Is. (Most Current Edition). You will refer
to this often and if you do not, you are being careless.
Heavy Weather Sailing has always been a topic of intense interest
to sailors. The quintessential book on the subject, of the same title,
is by Adlard Coles who passed in 1985, having published 6 editions
over a span of 40 years. The guide is now written by Peter Bruce
who is very knowledgeable in his own right.
AND/OR
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
27
Storm Tactics Handbook: Modern Methods of Heaving-to for
Survival in Extreme Conditions, 3rd Edition, (2008),Lin and Larry
Pardey.
The Pardeys have been cruising for a very long time and their work
on heavy weather sailing is definitive and complete.
The Voyager's Handbook : The Essential Guide to Blue Water
Cruising, (2006) Beth Leonard.
Leonard is an accomplished cruiser and her advice is well worth the
investment.
Most cruising boats do prepare for heavy weather sailing. What is most
often overlooked is light wind sailing, and consequently sail inventory for
that situation is normally lacking.
As a result, on light wind days, the motor needs to be employed. It seems
that more and more sailors find a good reason to turn the motor on.
Sometimes the motor must be used, and for a variety of reasons; however, if
there is a light breeze and you must turn it on for lack of light sail, it lessens
the quality of the voyage. This is especially true if you are motoring into the
wind, day in and day out; not fun!
Do not overlook your lightweight sail inventory.
CRUISING GUIDES
How you come south will determine what cruising guides you will need for
Canada and the United States, if any. If you plan to go down the northeast
coast to Florida and then island jump to the Caribbean, there are a number of
guides for the east coast of the United States that will be very helpful in
determining where you will stop. Guides are available from Maine to
Florida and for all the states in between.
Whether or not you plan to stop in the Bahamas, without question you
should choose one for the Bahamas. A number are available and most are
very good. Even if you go offshore, there is a possibility that you may have
to make a stop in the Bahamas. Therefore it is worthwhile to consider
acquiring a guide for the Bahamas as well as the Turks and Caicos.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
28
I like to break the Caribbean up into four quadrants: North, East,
Southeast, and Southwest:
NORTH includes the Greater Antilles (Puerto Rico, Hispaniola,
Jamaica and Cuba)
EAST is the Lesser Antilles (Virgin Islands to Grenada &
Trinidad)
SOUTHEAST Venezuela and the ABC islands
SOUTHWEST includes Colombia, the San Blas Islands, Panama,
Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala, Belize and Mexico
Figure 4. THE CARIBBEAN IN FOUR QUADRANTS
NORTH QUADRANT GUIDES
Guides for the NORTH QUADRANT (Greater Antilles) islands of the
Dominican Republic, Haiti, Jamaica, Cayman Islands and Puerto Rico, are
available free and can be downloaded at: www.freecruisingguides.com .
They are also available through eBook stores in interactive format.
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
29
A number of authors have written guides for Puerto Rico which is part of the
Greater Antilles; my favorite is The Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico by
Stephen J. Pavlidis. The price is right and the map insets are excellent. No
advertising and a great deal of information.
AND/OR
A Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico by Frank Virgintino, available free at
www.freecrusingguides.com or at fine eBook stores in interactive format.
Cuba has not had a guide since 1996 but online blogs have a great deal of
information that can be reviewed.
EAST QUADRANT GUIDES
There are a number of guides available for the EAST QUADRANT of the
CARIBBEAN; the Lesser Antilles (Virgin Islands to Grenada). One of the
really excellent ones is Grenada to the Virgin Islands by Jacques Patuelli. It
is extremely well done. At first glance it appears pricey; however, keep in
mind that the one book covers the entire Lesser Antilles. The photos are
wonderful and the descriptions outstanding. The book has no advertisements
or other non-essential data.
AND/OR
A Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles by Frank Virgintino in 3 volumes,
available free at www.freecruisingguides.com or at fine eBook stores in
interactive format.
A free guide for Trinidad is also available at: www.freecruisingguides.com .
SOUTHEAST QUADRANT GUIDES
The SOUTHEAST QUADRANT includes Venezuela for which there is a
guide by Chris Doyle that also includes Bonaire. Aruba, Bonaire and
Curacao are the subjects of new guide, A Cruising Guide to the ABC islands
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
30
by Frank Virgintino. A 2012 release, it is available free at
www.freecruisingguides.com .
There is also an additional free guide just for the island of Aruba. It is
available at: http://www.aruba-cruisingguide.com.
SOUTHWEST QUADRANT GUIDES
Going west to the southwestern Caribbean, there is not yet a guide for
Colombia although there are many cruising blogs that provide excellent
information.
There is an excellent guide for the entire SOUTHWEST QUADRANT
entitled Cruising Ports ~ the Central American Route by Capt. Pat Rains. It
includes Atlantic Panama, Honduras and the islands of Honduras, Guatemala
and the Rio Dulce, as well as Belize and Yucatan, Mexico. Superb!
For Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean coast there is an excellent guide which
includes Guatemala’s Rio Dulce. The author is Captain Freya Rauscher, a
woman of many talents ranging from Mesoamerican archeology to spinnaker
design to teaching high school math and science.
Before you depart, research, research, and then research some more.
Use the web, read books, read blogs and speak to those who have done the
trip. Visit relevant art galleries and museum exhibits if they are available.
The objective at this point is to enhance your adventure through an
understanding of the areas you will traverse and the people you will
encounter there. This, of course, is in addition to developing an
understanding of wind and weather patterns for the areas through which you
will sail.
END of this sample chapter from the eBook, A ThinkingMan’s Guide to
Voyages South ~ the Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising Cruising
Enjoyed the sample?
Voyages South is available for purchase at all ePub bookstores (Amazon
Kindle, Barnes & Noble Nook, Apple I-Books, etc.)
The Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising 3.0
31