2013 Clos des Papes Offer Walking the vineyards of the sunny Southern Rhône last summer, one couldn’t help ask the question “where are all the grapes?”. Coulure – the failure of flowers to become fruit – had a dramatic effect in 2013 and for vignerons, who mainly rely on Grenache for their blend, yields were often shatteringly small. However, for Vincent Avril, with his formidable array of parcels and varietals, the vintage was an opportunity to capture a vivid rendition of the pebble-strewn landscape of Châteauneuf-du-Pape via a different cast of characters. Grenache still takes the lead role, even if a much ‘quieter’ 50% from a typical 65% of the blend. The late-picked Mourvèdre (30%), understudied by some sensual Syrah (15%), stepped into the spotlight brilliantly. The result is still very much ‘Clos des Papes’ but that typical dark savoury richness is coupled with real suavity, freshness and, thankfully, reduced alcohol (an almost ‘quenching’ 14.8%). Less ‘oomph’ perhaps, but wonderfully stylish and harmonious. Other Chateauneuf-du-Pape rise to occasional brilliance, but, in our opinion, no one comes close to Avril’s record of sheer quality, consistency and ageing. Only last week, we drank the 1993; it was still bright and utterly delicious, exceeding expectations. The unique 2013 will behave in a similar fashion, challenging the feted 2012 with time. However, Vincent will want to forget the year, with miniscule yields of 13.5hl/ha and a shortfall of almost 50,000 bottles… It’s fair to say that there’s never been a recent Clos des Papes red quite like the 2013 and, for long-term fans, the vintage is an essential addition to your collection: one to serve alongside the magnificent 2010 or 2012 in years to come. The scarce Clos des Papes Blanc – normally dominated by white Grenache – has had a makeover too, thanks to the ravages of poor flowering. Clairette along with Picpoul and Bourboulenc (the latter two almost 40% of the blend this year) came to the rescue, creating a zesty, aromatic and floral Avril white. Juicy and precise, with splendid energy to its tingling tangerine and orchard fruit flavours. I am certain this 2013 will age beautifully – they always do! – but it was so outrageously delicious when we tasted in the summer, I’d be tempted to pull some corks when it first arrives. Sadly quantities are once more very restricted, on allocation only, as the red above. On allocation only Price in-bond case 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 6 BOT T L ES £235.00 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 12 BOT T L ES £470.00 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 6 M AGN U MS £480.00 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 6 BOT T L ES £180.00 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 12 BOT T L ES £360.00 Double-magnums (300cl) are available upon request.
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