July 11, 1961
A, BON|LLA
2,991,790
METHOD OF‘ COLD WAVING HAIR AND PRODUCT THEREF OR
Filed May 28, 1958
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United States Patent()
ICC
1
2,991,790
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2,991,790
Patented July 11, 1961"
2
,
FIGURE 2 is a secondary step in the same;
FIGURES 3 and 4 are perspective views illustrating'
Y
METHOD 0F COLD WAVING HAIR AND
PRODUCT THEREFOR
the concluding steps of practicing my invention.
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For a clearer understanding of my invention, I exem--
Antonio Bonilla, 149 E. ‘57th St., New York 22, N.Y.
plify the cold waving in connection with the process and
product herein described as that which may involve the
Filed May 28, 1958, Ser. No. 738,444
6 Claims. (Cl. I132-7)
use of a lotion of mercapto acetic acid and ammonia.
Such lotions contemplated by me are -those exemplified in
the aforesaid patents to McDonough and Brown and may,
in the preferred form, constitute a thioglycollic acid solu
tion in water, to provide a lotion of from about 2 to 10%
thioglycollic acid, with the addition of ammonia to achieve
a pH of between about 7 to 9.5, and preferably about
pH 9.2, with a 5% concentration of thioglycollic acid.
The mercaptan compounds available for this purpose
have now been explored by the aforesaid patentees and
others in published literature and in the trade to the point
that it is believed sufficient to refer to the class of such
This invention relates to a method for permanently
waving human hair, and more particularly to end papers
for said process.
Known to me is the method of permanently waving
hair on the living human scalp referred to as “cold
lwaving” which involves the use of hair waving composi
tions in which mercapto acetic acid or thioglycollíc acid,
together with ammonia, in an aqueous solution, is used
permanently to change the configuration of the hair on
the human scalp without damage, which> treatment is
believed to involve the reorientation of the sulfide bond
of the keratin constituents of the hair and, after relaxation
compounds as mei-captan cold waving lotions. My expe'
of the bond, the hair is oxidized to develop the wave to 20 rience with such lotions and the manner in which?they
the desired form. Generically and specifically, examples
are prescribed to be used include the step of dampening
of such mercaptan cold permanent waving solutions are
the hair with water as part of separating a tress thereof
exemplified in the patents to McDonough 2,736,323 and
preparatory to cold waving, soaking the tress with a cold
Brown 2,688,972, and perhaps others.
waving solution while combing, holding an end paper
Repeated use of this procedure is accompanied by an 25 around the tress, which is then slid in position to cover
over-exposure of the hair ends, which ends retain the
the free ends of the hair, and winding upon the curler
effect of the prior hair waving treatments. Such ends,
rod by a Croquignole winding, i.e. to roll the curler
when subjected to a renewed cold waving treatment of
beginning with the ends to adjacent the scalp. Such pro
the character described, exhibit undue curling, frizzing,
cedure tends to concentrate the lotion preparation, under
harshness and dryness because frequent winding by the 30 tension, at the core of the curler, to effect an undesirable
“Croquignole” method is believed unduly to 4stress and
over-treatment of the ends, a result which this invention
over-expose the hair ends in renewing or repeating the
seeks to overcome.
.
cold waving procedure.
I now refer to the drawings, wherein there is shown
Known to me is the use of so-called end papers which
a fragment of a scalp 10 in which a tress of hair 11,
are impregnated with emollients for the hair in an 35 having ends 12 (which have previously been cold waved)
effort to restore their natural appearance and properties
which are to be subjected to my process. For this pur
to hair ends which have been previously treated.
Such
pose, the tress 11, which may have been recently sham
emollients, of which lanolin is an example, are not re
pooed, is moistened or `dampened with water and combed
in the direc-tion away from the scalp 10 toward vthe ends
sistant to the superimposed cold waving solutions, to
minimize the damaging effect of repeated applications 40 12. In this position, I lay the tress ends 12 upon about
thereof because of What I believe to be attributable in part
one half of an end paper 13 so as to have one section 14
to a concentration of the lotion on the core or center of
underlie the tress ends, and the other half section 15
extend to one side of a fold line 16, which latter section
the curl, with consequent excessive exposure of the hair
ends, rather than a shielding of the hair ends from the
is then folded in superimposed position upon the firstv sec
augmented addition of the cold waving lotion by the end 45 tion 14 to sandwich the hair ends between the sections' 14
paper.
and 15. A quadrangular section of paper about '2" x 3”
In accordance with =my invention, I have found that
will normally su-iiice.
with an initial relaxation of the hair ends, as by exposure
I have found that an end paper having the following
to a diluent for the lotion, particularly where the ends
qualities is preferred: a fiber content of about 50% rag
50
form the core, as in the Croquignole wind, that the re
and 50% coniferous wood fiber, with a wet strength
peated or renewed cold waving operation may be prac
agent to give 100% porosity or zero air resistance, .with
ticed without deleteriously affecting the hair ends and,
a bursting strength (Mullen) of about 10 pounds per
in fact, improve the appearance of the ends previously
subjected >to cold waving preparations, to provide a highly
aesthetic appearance and a yrevival of the natural soft
ness and lusterofthe hair ends. ..
Stillmore particularly, I have discovered that'anunduly
tight wave at the hair ends, which is evidenced by frizzing
and loss of sheen, may be overcome by including in the
square inch, having absorption characteristics as follows:
55
when immersed in water for sixty seconds and allowed t0
drain for sixty seconds, its weight would be 5 grams per
gram of paper.
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- _ Cotton surgical gauze may, in a measure, beemployed,
but I prefer the paper as described.
In one form of my invention, the paper as thus pro
end papers a component which tends to dilute the lotion 60 vided is wetted with water, to pick up its full capacity to
which is applied at the core and differentially relaxes the
absorb water when dipped into and withdrawn from the
hair ends as compared with the more concentrated form
water. In this condition of moisture, the paper is ap
of lotion which is applied upon the fully wound con
plied to the tress, as shown in «FIGURE 2 of the drawing.
volutions of hair strand.
Thereupon the curler rod 17 is traversed across the end
65
Still further phases of my invention will become appar
paper, constraining the hair ends, and the tress is wound
ent as this description proceeds.
in `Croquignole winding fashion to provide the curl 18,
To attain these objects and such further objects as may
with the end paper 13 and the ends 12 of the tress encased
appear herein or be hereinafter pointed out, I make
therein forming the core of the curl. Thereupon the tie
reference to the accompanying drawing, forming a part
70 19 of the curler rod, anchored at 20, is drawn across the
hereof, in which»
curl 18 to anchor the curl by latching the end 21 of the
FIGURE l is a perspective view illustrating the initial
tie 19 in the clevis 22 of the curler. A plurality of such
step in the practice of my invention;
~
2,991,790
3
tresses are treated to provide a completely curled head,
as shown at 23, as will be understood.
4
ing a solution comprising primarily an aqueous diluent
for the cold hair waving lotion, winding the hair on the
Thereupon, cold waving lotion may be daubed upon
the curls 23 in the manner prescribed for this kind of
operation, along the entire length of the hair curled on
the curler rod. The process is permitted to go to corn
pletion as may be prescribed with the particular cold
waving solution involved, before rinsing and drying
and/ or neutralizing or oxidizing.
sheeting to form the sheeting as a core for the windings
and then applying the lotion to the hair to permit the ends
and new growth to become differentially treated before
completing the procedure of neutralizing and oxidizing
the hair so treated.
3. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave
on the living human scalp with tbe use of aqueous solu
By following the aforesaid procedure, utilizing an end 10 tions of mercapto cold waving compounds, the steps which
include encasíng the hair ends between layers of absorbent
paper of substantially 100% porosity, saturated with wa
paper as described, an initial relaxation of the ends of
the hair is secured under tension by means of a more
dilute condition of the lotion at the core where the hair
ends are located, than throughout the balance of the tress.
This is particularly important for hair which has been
previously treated with a cold waving preparation and in
which the free ends still exhibit the effects of the prior
ter, to provide an aqueous diluent of the compounds,
winding the hair about the absorbent sheeting and then
completing the application of the cold waving com
pounds before neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so
treated.
4. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave
on the living human scalp with the use of aqueous lo
ment of my invention the Croquignole winding of the 20 tions of thioglycollic acid in ammonia of a concentration
between 2 to 10% of the thioglycolate component and of
hair with a core winding of the end paper with a diluent
a pH from 7 to 9.5, the steps which include encasing the
of Water to secure a differential relaxation of the hair
hair
ends between layers of absorbent sheeting carrying
from the core to the scalp of the hair being treated, it
a solution comprising primarily an aqueous diluent of the
will be understood that certain desirable phases of my in
vention may be secured by saturating the end paper with 25 compounds in the proportions of 6 parts of water to l
treatment.
While I have described and illustrated in one embodi
a dilution of lotion in water. For this purpose, a small
amount of the full strength prepared lotion which may, as
previously indicated, vary from 2 to 10%, is diluted six
fold with water.
The end paper of the porosity as de
scribed is dipped in this dilute solution of the lotion be~ 30
fore the winding of the tress is commenced, in a manner
as previously described.
By the procedure described, one need not trim the ends
of the hair before waving if the hair has been previously
subjected to cold wave treatment, a procedure recom
mended by cold wave lotion manufacturers, but one may
part of the compound, to saturate the sheeting, winding
the hair about the absorbent sheeting and then complet»
ing the application of the cold Waving compounds before
neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.
5. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave
on the living human scalp to hair ends which have previ
ously been subjected to cold permanent Waving treatments
by the use of aqueous lotions of a mercapto cold waving
compound on hair ends previously so treated and on new
growth of hair simultaneously to secure a selective partial
treatment on the hair ends compared with the new growth
of hair, the steps which include encasing said ends be
proceed to carry out the cold waving treatment with the
tween layers of absorbent sheeting carrying a solution
mercaptan lotions as referred to directly, without the
comprising primarily an aqueous diluent for the cold hair
danger of the deleterious effect of excessive treatment of
40 waving lotion, winding the hair upon said sheeting and
the hair ends.
then applying the lotion to the hair before neutralizing
Having thus described my invention and illustrated its
and oxidizing the hair so treated.
use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters
6. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave
Patent, is:
on
the living human scalp with the use of waving com
1. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave
pounds on hair ends previously so treated and on new
on the living human scalp with the use of aqueous lotions
growth of hair simultaneously to secure a selective partial
of thioglycollic acid of a concentration between 2 to 10%
treatment on the hair ends compared with the new growth
of the thioglycollic component and ammonia to achieve a
of hair, the steps which include winding the hair upon a
pH from 7 to 9.5, the steps which include winding the
core carrying a solution comprising primarily a diluent
hair upon a carrier saturated with a one sixth fractional
for the waving compound and then applying the com
aqueous dilution of said lotion, and then applying the 50 pound
to the hair before neutralizing and oxidizing the
lotion of the ñrst mentioned strength to the hair to per
hair so treated.
mit the ends and new growth to become differentially
References Cited in the file of this patent
treated before completing the procedure of neutralizing
and oxidizing the hair so treated.
UNITED STATES PATENTS
2. In the method of cold permanent waving upon the
2,041,641
Grasso ______________ __ May 19, 1936
living human scalp with the use of aqueous lotions of
2,624,347
Melaro ________________ __ Jan. 6, 1953
mercapto cold waving compounds on hair ends previously
so treated and on new growth of hair simultaneously to
secure a selective partial treatment on the hair ends com
pared with the new growth of hair, the steps which in 60
clude encasing the hair ends in absorbent sheeting carry
2,688,972
2,794,440
2,832,357
2,839,066
Brown ______________ __ Sept. 14,
Levie _________________ _.. June 4,
Powers ______________ __ Apr. 29,
Saunders ____________ __ June 17,
1954
1957
1958
1958