Save the Ocean, Eat a Squid

IT O TEBOOK
Clock*l$ lm b€lok Chof Chnt
Coandm hoftL. lr.di{ulnr
dam $unbolrh.quldi.dp.
d|lror blad6 fEn h! r.nrad6l
0d$|w
hu adntn arhbSd
Fhml.co l.drd,
Incmb.
FEIV TOP AITERICAN CHEFS
haveHuDboldt squidon the
menu.Occasionally
thetough6-old-tiB "calmdi ste.k"will
showupat a fishjoint.but Humboldtar€alnostunh€ard-of
in
high-end
oisinc. Co*ntinoh6
taker it uponhimselfto changE
that, derelopilg a numberof
Fi!6 thatshdvotrthes monster'ssofterside.Th€ pntcipl€s
ofall thcsccntrctsshd a thcmc Ttndcrnc.
SquidarenaturallvtouAh horibly thi.kskinncdand rubb€.y- and to tak€out thc
fight rclui16 to!-chcf chops.
Thc Brilled-tentacle
con6t,for exanple,
involvcsslow-cooking
thc appendages
iD
oliveoil for sixhous to tendede them.The
dishis*.€d on a b€doflt lid chimry $ith
G I A NT SOUID HAVE M O VED TO W ARn ER PTI CI I r I CWA T E R S ,T H R E A T E N hoilcdMcyc.lcmon.Thetipsarccrunchy
I NG NATTVE FISH . W HAT TO DO i TRY A TASTY T E N T - {C L E D T l E A L .
andtast€of fire. nhile the bigge.slicesar€
hcdtv andchc$r: InMgin€a su@lcnt fish
,J^DAu rrsI|ER
jcrlry.andyougcttheidca.Hissquids-ink
spagh€ttiis dressdlin a squid'fin18, (ltalDordr.Hcre,ot the Nordredr califomia oct,
ian for sau@).The tnck is to fi6t grind the
Manfred wr€mbel stard on
the Hunboldt hNe fourd a \\'hole ocean
m€t and thensimmerit for threehous.
tle rcckine sternofthe Huli
Iagelv fishedout ofp€datoslike bluedntDa
It's aI supe.tast_v,
brt squidconnoiseuCat, a s3-foot fishing chartci
and salnon. Hunrboldtspa$n quicklyaDd
ship is nee$arily Dore aboutt*turc, and
cos€ntino is back aftff a $ek
et rcdcious\r Br somee$imatcs. th€re N
soCosentino's
srilled squidste.kwith fishno$ tcns ofniuions ofthcn in thc nortlcm
cmmt potates md salsavcdehd a sushiauy iom his su F@d$o Gta!@q filDing the secondseasonofhis noN canceled
Paciiic,allintenton deiouriDgsonreofthe
liketendene$. Thedishiststanent tojust
fi shins industry'ssmallertraditionrl @tch,
h6v muchCc$tino @ brinsto acuttlat!
reality shoq c/,ef ri citl. Hc: jet-lagged
and squiftU_!, and his bloched-blond faulikc hakc and ancbolics.lts a Digproble,n
rcg\rlarlyconrparcd
to tllcanied rubber.
hawk, normalh mousscdb attcntion,has
that nors up thc fixxlchain md Lluld impad
'Th$vhole 6shhs to lt krubltd with Mk
greater wieties of k.Iood.
gonc linp. wcmbcl, hh souschcl bricfs
srlt md blmchedin onlerb Emorethetoud
' ' Squi{ lis D o $ t h e d o n r i n a n t s p c c i c s i n ooterlaycrof skin,anddrerctatorblades
Cosentinoon whar has beenhappeningat
then Etaudt,
In@to, $ hilc bc rv6 gDncthe Pacific,"coFntino erts.'ThcnatcE have
harcto bepluckcdoilthc tcntacles,"
hcsa]6.
"Last night wa the chicken live6;'wreDnEl
'Thc rcstis allabolt manipulatingit\ith
SavetheOcean,
Eata Squid
relorts, b€twen dngs on a Madborc, "They
The che8 d hoded out to dreopen()lfu
on a hut for tbe simt Hunboldt squid. Ten
)ss.go, thcb.asts $rrc mnfn tto Nlcnco!
west oast. but l)en qates $amed by cli
mate chflsc m b.li6d to ba\c lured tbcn
'lb him, .$igning bla e to globdl
{rminsor unsustainfl
blc fi shingpradi$
scenNbes c drcpoiDt.
"Theqrestion isl cosendrosaysof the
bis squid, \rhatdoNedo to stop themi"
He tlinks the an$\rris obrious: "\rrc eat
xzN s r o u r N ^r
30
x^Y :or,
Thcst@kisdclicatc,
snooth,andsilk,
ir contrastto hisnnaldish:bmisedsquid
wift chnkpes in aioli,ryhichfallsfrcn the
tork in sinuonsflahcslikc rc.l southcrnbdlxcle. ltl ab6$n perfomme: Simtsquid
tu
N OTE B O O K
fs,'::flyi3[",",
rodon
Cat.li bs ut eachroller,sent bl a ncarby
storm, and then belh flops into the troqh
oflhe next. Atdr cattainb favo.itc squid
ishinssrcunds, the dc.knand lascs oui
rods and rccls baite<l$idr fluorescent-grccn
toryedoes,Humboldt areso voncious that
they'lleataqthing that movs orshins.
.fnc h drc holc l" $'rcnbel barls as hc
dropshis lure into die delths.
The tdckto fislilgnrr gimt squid is to let
dre lure hit drc bottonr Huntoldt like to
hang out at dcpris ofabout 1,000feet - and
thcn sloslt sind the rcel ba.k io thc surface.
Ut and dosr g. lhc l\,es. Ul aNl do$n rolls
the boat. c.sentino sucdmbs, sndbngore
to the lccsld side tbr a quict bai;
The 4rid takethebait.-Ba,AlBa,al E\tr.r