COLLECTION 005 COMMUNIQUÉ 005 C O L L E C T I O N 0 0 5 We salute the noble mudlarks! Along the banks of the dirty old river, these resourceful scavengers sift the silt for the buried remnants of a hundredscore years. A clay pipe, an ivory button, a Roman coin, a charred remnant of the city’s first campfire – what fresh delights will the ebbing tide reveal? The repetitious cycles of the fashion mainstream follow only the current, overlooking in their arrogance all that is deemed washed up. This we disdain! Arrayed in our exploratory uniform, we champion the serendipity of the chance find. Through fine-grade steel mesh we filter and sieve the accumulated influences of these islands’ centuries. From abandoned yarns and threads we knit knotty new designs. On interwoven hooks and grommets we hang our trouvés, the treasures we have found lying half-buried in the sediment of our lives. Inspiration t h r o u g h r e c i r c u l a t i o n ! T O O G O O D p.2 p.3 005 THE ACROBAT TROUSER With vaulting ambition, the capering gymnast overleaps the stern strictures of gravity. A generous trouser. THE BOXER THE LONG GARDENER TROUSER Breeding flowers out of the dead land, the hornyhanded horticulturalist reshapes and brightens our environment. A wideleg trouser. Beneath the satin finery, the proud pugilist boasts an unrivalled physical prowess. A roomy short. ............P.17,33,42,45 .........P.12,14,24,35,46 THE OILRIGGER COAT|LONG COAT Amid the surging waters of the North Sea, the offshoreman taps into the planet’s prehistoric essence. An enveloping shroud coat. ............P.20,21,42,43 THE THE APPRENTICE JACKET With studious diligence, the ardent disciple ensures the perpetuation of centuries-old trades and inherited expertise. An oversized jacket. COAT..................... LONG COAT................ DOORMAN COAT THE LIBRARIAN SKIRT Cataloguing and classifying, the resourceful bibliophile curates the vast archive of our inspirations. An A-line skirt. Be not fooled by the air of decorum – the servile façade of the front-ofhouse attendant conceals boundless expertise and an omniscient intellect. A generous greatcoat. ..................P.10,39 ......................... .....................P.25 THE ARCHITECT SHIRT From linear blueprints back on the drawing board, the master draughtsman enconjures the vast edifices that shape our world. A collarless shirt. THE DRAUGHTSMAN SHORT|LONG SHIRT THE MILKMAN JACKET With simple strokes of pen or cursor, the deft delineator draws up brave new worlds for us. A precise shirt. In blazing heat or grim tempest, the daily deliverer is there to provide vital nourishment to our very doorsteps. A tailored jacket. SHORT.................... LONG.....P.25,35,42,45,46 ......................... THE PHOTOGRAPHER J A C K E T A simple click, and a fleeting moment is preserved for ever more – the all-seeing lensman frames our memories. An easy-fit jacket. ........P.1,8,12,14,33,38 THE POTTER TOP With fluent hands, the worker of clay coaxes form and function from the most unassuming sediment. A protective smock. ..................P.13,14 T H E B E E K E E P E R J A C K E T Within a protective cocoon of cloth, the apiarist can coax sweetness from the wildest of swarms. A hooded garment. THE EXPLORER THE COAT TOP On the daily grind, the pioneer of fission harnesses the energy hidden within the tiniest grains. A tabard. Traversing uncharted regions, the rugged adventurer maps out an ever more connected globe. A hooded coat. ......................... ..................P.11,45 ......................... p.4 MILLER p.5 ...................P.7,13 T H E P R I N T E R TOP|TUNIC|DRESS A revolutionary disseminator of information, the heir of Gutenberg multiplies thoughts a thousandfold via pure mechanics. A round-neck T-shirt. TOP............P.25,42,43 TUNIC.................... DRESS................P.34 THE SCULPTOR TROUSER Within the unshaped stone, beauty slumbers – the chisel-wielding artist can discern the hidden grace in the harshest forms. A hardwearing trouser. ..............P.1,8,11,13 THE SHOEMAKER TROUSER Embodying a craft honed by generations, the contemporary cobbler conjures up footwear built to last. A slimline trouser. ......................... p.6 THE UMPIRE COAT What is in and what is out? With Solomonic wisdom, the sporting lawgiver makes pitchperfect judgements. A duster coat. .....................P.24 THE WARDEN JACKET|COAT|LONG COAT With eagle eye and tempered power, the staunch custodian holds all the keys. A roundneck jacket/coat. JACKET...P.16,17,20,21,22 COAT........P.23,26,28,29 LONG COAT......P.31,37,41 THE MUDLARK OBJECTS From the settled sediment of the mighty river, the urban archaeologist prises prizes for us all. Cast objets trouvés and knitted scarves. NECK ROPE....P.7,12,28,37 LARGE BONE...........P.46 PIN............P.13,24,25 BONE CORD.........P.16,17 KNIT SCARF........P.32,33 RAG SCARF............P.34 p.7 THE ALCHEMIST in 7oz canvas made in england p.8 p.9 p.1 0 p.1 1 p.1 2 p.1 3 Down in the mud the plains of mud the primaeval plains of mud the primal mud that splashes and splats lapped by withdrawing waves The storks stalk The farraginous foragers all go down the strand in search of bygones bones pipes and coins and potsherds The residue of the city mudlarks UNEARTHED wot larks! The residents of the city search the riverbank vaults Recirculating Resurfacing Researching step stop spot stoop pick it pocket TOOGOOD p.1 4 p.1 5 unpack it unpick it p.1 6 p.1 7 p.2 0 p.2 1 p.2 2 p.2 3 p.2 4 p.2 5 MANIFESTO W H E R E A S for too long we have witnessed the honest clothing of working people being stolen and arrogated in the name of so-called utility wear and industrial chic; W H E R E A S in an age of digital reproduction the individual is beset on all sides by the bastions of mercantilis m and commerce, those false profiteers who prescribe with one hand and proscribe with the other, while forcing all comers into constrictive sartorial templates; W H E R E A S the entrenched power bases of couture houses and multinationals mete and dole grotesque sumptuary law s to a compliant populace in the form of biannual ‘season s’, weaving obsolescence into the very fabric of their g arments; W E H E R E B Y reject and reprehend the cruel diktats of the discredited fashionista treadmill: the voracious cyc le in which spring/summer is devoured by autumn/winter, and autumn/winter is in turn devoured by spring/summer. Let them be rendered obsolete by the very inconstancy th ey thrive upon — we want it to happen! We will create o nly when we choose to create. Never again shall free thi nkers be in thrall to the caprices of chainstore buyers or of marketing consultants! O U R A I M S are simple, our methods straightforward. W e shall sweep aside the crumbling detritus of plutocrat desi gners and clear the way for a new aesthetic rooted in indi viduality and honesty, a liberating mode that is available to all, male and female, old and young. We celebrate the cra ft and the toil of the workers — not faceless serfs running up disposable fads in farflung sweatshops, but named ar tisans with pride in their labour. W E S H A L L harness the techniques and forms of this m echanised age and return them to the people. The inherent wort h of any object lies not in the pronouncements of the self-ap pointed arbiters of collective taste, but in provenance and the craftsmanship of manufacture. TOOGOOD p.2 7 p.2 8 p.2 9 p.3 0 p.3 1 p.3 2 p.3 3 p.3 4 p.3 5 p.3 7 THE ALCHEMIST in 7oz canvas made in england p.3 8 p.3 8 p.3 9 p.4 1 p.4 2 p.4 3 p.4 4 p.4 5 WITH THANKS The Photographer MARIUS W HANSEN The Writer STEPHEN PATIENCE The Models LORNA BARNABY The Hair Stylist KARIN BIGLER The Make up Artist ADELE SANDERSON The Shoes SEBASTIAN TAREK The Mudlark C hristian M I Z O N The Workers AGATHA, HALA, KATIE, MARGHERITA, SHERYN, SOPHIE, WENDY Craftsmen and Craftswomen THE CUTTERS THE DYERS THE HAND FINISHERS THE MOULD MAKERS THE PAINTERS THE QUILTERS THE SEAMSTRESSES CONTACT [email protected] +44 (0)20 7226 1061 p.4 7 — All SHEETAL, of you... p.4 8
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