Oviedo
The Principe de Asturias awards, the Spanish equivalent to the
Nobel prizes, ensure an annual spotlight on Oviedo, the capital
of Spain’s north-west region of Asturias.
And it was 2002 arts winner
Woody Allen who fell in love with
the laid back city and put it in
his film Vicky Cristina Barcelona.
Now a statue of the New York
film maker has joined others that
adorn the many pedestrian
streets in the fascinating old
quarter of the historic town.
Its origins go back before Roman
times and by the 9th century it
was the first capital of Christian
Spain. It was ransacked by
Napoleon’s troops and suffered
terribly in the Civil War. It is
difficult to believe that this clean
city (Pop: 225,000) with a lovely
central park was also once the
grimy industrial centre of a major
coal mining region.
Curiously it was an Englishman
who started the tradition that the male heir to the Spanish throne should have
the title of Prince of Asturias. In 1388 John of Gaunt, the Duke of Lancaster,
married his daughter Constance to Enrique, the eldest son of Juan 1 of Castile
and Leon, and it was the duke’s idea to have Juan 1 make his son-in-law and
future Spanish heirs to the throne, the Prince of Asturias – as in England with
the Prince of Wales.
It was a fitting title since Don Pelayo, the 8th century Asturian chief who
defeated the invading Moors in the first battle of the reconquest at
Covadonga, is considered the founding father of the Spanish monarchy.
By happy coincidence Letizia, the wife of the current Prince of Asturias,
Felipe, comes from Oviedo. And so does Fernando Alonso, the racing driver.
Leopoldo García-Alas (1852-1901), who wrote as Clarin, chronicled life in
Oviedo, especially the dilemma of choosing between God or humanism.
You could start your visit to Oviedo before even entering the city. From Mount
Naranco, one of the green hills surrounding the city, are great views of its
location and right there is one of the most famous churches in Spain, built in
the 9th century when this was the last bastion of Christian Spain. Santa María
del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo are three hundred yards apart
and nearby is an excellent Visitor’s Centre showing the history of the area.
Santa María, with its lovely views from two lookout windows, was originally
the audience chamber of Ramiro 1’s summer palace and San Miguel, with
delicate interior carving, was its chapel. The two buildings are constructed
with golden stone in a unique architectural style that predates Romanesque
and is known as Asturian Pre-Romanesque.
In the old city centre, Oviedo’s Gothic San Salvador Cathedral, built between
the 14th and 16th centuries, actually contains a secret hideaway constructed
in the 9th century by Alfonso the Chaste (792-842) to guard Christian
treasures from the Moorish invaders.
The Cámara Santa, or Holy Chamber, was one of the attractions for pilgrims on
the St James’s route to Santiago. It was badly damaged by a bomb placed by
striking miners in the October 1934 revolt. Since rebuilt, it exhibits the
battered Cross of Angels, a gold leaf Greek-style cross encrusted with pearls
and jewels, and the splendid Victory Cross, the symbol of Asturias, a jewelled
sheath crafted in 908 to cover the oak cross carried by Pelayo in the 722
Battle of Covadonga. Pelayo’s victory stopped the Moors from conquering
Asturias.
The treasures were stolen in 1977 by art thieves but were later recovered.
Perhaps the thieves did not heed the inscription on the Cross of Angels: “May
anyone who dares to remove me from the place I have been willingly donated
be struck by a bolt of divine lightning.”
The Cathedral also has a museum above the cloisters, notable for ancient
diptychs from the 6th, 12th and 14th centuries. Adjoining the cathedral is the
city’s Archaeological Museum in the San Vicente Monastery. It has an
impressive display of Pre-Romanesque Asturian art as well Roman remains.
The museum is currently closed for renovation.
In Plaza Alfonso, across from the cathedral, is the stately 15th-c. Palacio de la
Rúa, Oviedo’s oldest mansion and still inhabited. Nearby is the old university
building with its fine 16th-c. façade.
The 9th-c. San Julían de los Prados is the largest Pre-Romanesque church in
Spain and contains a number of fabulous frescoes considered among the best
of their era in Europe. The majestic three nave basilica has a throne for the
monarch and is also known as Santullano after the plaza in which it stands.
The Museo de Bellas Artes, the Fine Arts Museum, is housed in two old
palaces in the old quarter and shows works by Asturian artists as well as
notable Spanish works from the 15th century onwards. Artists represented
include Titian, Goya, Zurbarán and Meléndez. There is also a major display of
local glassware and ceramics.
Oviedo is a wonderful town to wander around and soak up the atmosphere and
local cider. El Fontán is a large porticoed rectangular plaza used on market
days and with outdoor café terraces. Calle Gascona is thronged with jolly
sidrerías, such as Terra Astur which also has a shop, which sells tasty local
cheeses, hearty bean stews such as fabada and strong Asturian cider,
traditionally poured from a bottle held high to ensure the liquid froths up.
A visit to the Cider Museum (www.museodelasidra.com) at Nava, just east of
Oviedo, is fun and they also sell cider and the glasses.
Casa Fermín, run by Luis Alberto Martínez and his wife is an outstanding
modern restaurant serving modern cuisine which makes great use of the good
quality meat and seafood for which Asturias is famous. And no visit is
complete without exploring the fabulous Hotel Reconquista, one of Spain’s
finest hotels.
Oviedo Municipal Tourist Offices:
Plaza de La Constitución 4
Tel: 984 08 60 60
Parque de Campo de San Francisco Tel: +34 985 22 75
Oviedo Bus Station Tel: +34 985 11 70
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: turismo.ayto-oviedo.es
Where to Stay
Meliá Hotel de la Reconquista *****
Gil de Jaz 16
Tel: +34 985 241 100
www.hoteldelareconquista.com
From €165. Magnificent National Monument.
Hotel Fruela ***
Fruela 3
33007 Oviedo
Tel: +34 985 208 120
www.hotelfruela.com
From €70. Good rooms in central location.
Hotel Ovetense
San Juan 6
33003 Oviedo
Tel: +34 985 220 207
From €33. Central location, small modern clean rooms above cider bar &
restaurant.
Where to Eat
Casa Fermín
San Francisco 8
Tel: +34 985 216 452
www.casafermin.com
Very trendy restaurant, perfect service with delicious modern Asturian cuisine
Casa Conrado
Argüelles 1
Tel: +34 985 223 919
www.casaconrado.com
One of the great classic Asturian restaurants, elegant dining with impeccable
service.
Tierra Astur
Gascona 1
Tel: +34 985 203 411
www.tierra-astur.com
Popular sidrería with outdoor terrace and gourmet shop.
Casa Pachu
Calle Alfonso III el Magno 5
Tel: +34 985 738 087
Great tapas and wines, beautiful decor, music.
Pagos Viejos
Aguila 1
Tel: +34 985 738 087
Delicious tapas and good wines near cathedral.