Through a
1.
Decorators
Eyes
67 Irresistible
Paint Colors For Your Home
by
Sasha Stricker
1
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible
Paint Colors
for Your Home
bys
by Sasha Stricker
Copyright Ⓒ decorateITonline Inc. 2011
p. 2
Table of Contents
1.
Introduction
2.
The Irresistible Paint Color List ............................ 5
White & Off-Whites ............................................ 6
Neutrals ............................................................... 7
Medium - Dark Neutrals ..................................... 10
Dark Neutrals ...................................................... 13
Bold Colors .......................................................... 15
Soft Brights ......................................................... 18
3.
Complementing Your Walls ...................................
Trim, Moulding & Door Colors ...........................
Ceiling Colors ......................................................
Tonal White Rooms .............................................
Accent Walls and Faux Paint Features ................
20
21
23
24
25
4.
Choosing the Right Paint for the Job ....................
Sheen and Finish ................................................
Color Matching .....................................................
Cost vs quality. Finding the perfect balance .......
26
27
29
31
5.
Troubleshooting Guide ........................................... 32
Why does my paint color
change throughout the day? ................................ 33
The Light Bulb Moment! ..................................... 34
6.
About the Author ....................................................
..........................................................
BONUS #1 - How to Paint like a Pro
BONUS #2 - Feng Shui Guide to Colors
4
35
p. 37
p. 56
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 3
Introduction
Color is a powerful force in our lives, it has the ability draw us in or push us
away. When a color is right, there’s an instant connection; the sparks fly.
Color can affect how we feel and what we want; it’s a fashion statement
and a means of expression. Getting the right color is like hitting the jackpot,
instantly rewarding.
To me, there are few things in life as inspiring as color.
But, when it comes to choosing paint colors, practice makes perfect, and it‘s
taken me years of experience to learn to identify what paint color will look
best in a room. Undertones can be sneaky, that gorgeous color on the sample
chip can morph into a completely different color once it’s on the walls.
And, if you’ve ever done the “walk of shame” back to the paint store, OR,
possessed a stash of “oops” paint. You know exactly what I mean!
But the secret that none of us pro’s want to admit is... that there really are
only a few colors that we go to on a regular basis, 67 to be precise. These
are the true winning colors. They don’t have wacky undertones. And they work,
beautifully, everytime.
Now you don’t have to hire a decorator to have the most irresistible paint
colors on your walls. You have this list, my list. In fact there’s not much you
have to do, simply select the colors that you love, and enjoy the moment. This
could possibly be the first time that you’ve ever though about paint colors
without feeling panic!
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 4
Section 2:
The Irresistible
Color List
p. 5
Whites & Off Whites
Best
Pure
White
Mountain Peak White
OC-121
Benjamin Moore
Dover White
SW 6385
Sher win Williams
Greek Villa
Best
Trim
Color
Grand Teton White
OC-132
Benjamin Moore
Halo
OC-46
Benjamin Moore
Swiss Coffee
SW 7551
Sher win Williams
OC-45
Benjamin Moore
Natural Cream
Natural Choice
OC-14
Benjamin Moore
SW 7011
Sher win Williams
Creamy White
Natural Tan
OC-7
Benjamin Moore
SW 7567
Sher win Williams
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 6
Neutrals
This is the most popular color range
for home interiors. The colors are
saturated enough that they look like
colors but soft enough to play a
supporting role to a rooms design. If
you’ve been saying, “I don’t want to go
too dark” these are your colors!
p. 7
Neutrals
Revere Pewter
HC-172
Benjamin Moore
Gray Matters
Best
Gray!
Mindful Gray
SW 7016
Sher win Williams
Modern Gray
SW 7066
Sher win Williams
SW 7632
Sher win Williams
Spanish Olive
Herbs de Provence
CC-606
Benjamin Moore
CC-634
Benjamin Moore
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 8
Neutrals
Crown Point Sand
Best
Soft
Brown
Basket Beige
HC-90
Benjamin Moore
SW 6143
Sher win Williams
Lenox Tan
Camelback
HC-44
Benjamin Moore
SW 6122
Sher win Williams
Dunmore Cream
Henderson Buff
HC-29
Benjamin Moore
HC-15
Benjamin Moore
Harmonic Tan
Yorkshire Tan
SW 6136
Sher win Williams
HC-23
Benjamin Moore
Castleton Mist
HC-1
Benjamin Moore
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 9
Medium-Dark Neutrals
Rich and Luxurious, from gorgeous
gray’s to sensational browns these
are dynamic colors. They typically
work best in individual rooms, but, if
you want to make a really bold
statement these would also work as
overall home colors.
p. 10
Medium-Dark Neutrals
Mega Greige
Best
Dark
Gray
Intellectual Gray
SW 7031
Sher win Williams
SW 7045
Sher win Williams
Whale Gray
Asphalt
2134-40
Benjamin Moore
CC-548
Benjamin Moore
Overcoat
Gray
CC-544
Benjamin Moore
2121-10
Benjamin Moore
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 11
Medium-Dark Neutrals
Sawdust
Olive Branch
SW 6158
Sher win Williams
2143-30
Benjamin Moore
Davenport Tan
Stampede
HC-76
Benjamin Moore
CC-540
Benjamin Moore
Norwich Brown
Jamesboro Gold
HC-19
Benjamin Moore
HC-88
Benjamin Moore
Baguette
Caramel Apple
SW 6123
Sher win Williams
CC-450
Benjamin Moore
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 12
Dark Neutrals
Dark and opulent these sensational
colors are not for the faint of heart.
Like a warm embrace, these deep, rich
colors are soothing and intimate. Try
using these decadent colors in luxury
rooms like Dining Rooms, Libraries or
Media Rooms to create an
unforgettable escape.
p. 13
Dark Neutrals
Kendall Charcoal
Best
Chocolate
Brown
Urbane Bronze
HC-166
Benjamin Moore
SW 7048
Sher win Williams
Iron Ore
Willow
SW 7069
Sher win Williams
CC-542
Benjamin Moore
Durango
Best Bronze
2137-30
Benjamin Moore
SW 6160
Sher win Williams
Van Buren Brown
French Roast
HC-70
Benjamin Moore
SW 6069
Sher win Williams
Kaffee
Otter Brown
SW 6104
Sher win Williams
2137-10
Benjamin Moore
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 14
Bold Colors
Bold and unforgettable these brilliant
colors will add a unique personality to
any space. They’re best when used in
small doses and paired with neutral
furnishings. Try using one of these
dynamic colors in a half bath or
kitchen to create a bit of drama!
p. 15
Bold Colors
Stolen Kiss
Best
Red
Red Rock
SW 7586
Sher win Williams
2005-10
Benjamin Moore
Sundried Tomato
Raphael
CC-62
Benjamin Moore
CC-2
Benjamin Moore
Gingery
Tulsa Twilight
SW 6363
Sher win Williams
2070-10
Benjamin Moore
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 16
Bold Colors
Bonsai
Eminent Bronze
CC-666
Benjamin Moore
SW 6412
Sher win Williams
Sturdy Brown
Night Owl
SW 6097
Sher win Williams
CC-662
Benjamin Moore
Still Water
Miramachi
SW 6223
Sher win Williams
CC-752
Benjamin Moore
Dark Night
Black Magic
SW 6237
Sher win Williams
SW 6991
Sher win Williams
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 17
Soft Brights
Soft and Brilliant these sunny colors
will bring a fresh, clean feel to any
room.
Note: These sunny colors will look
brighter on the wall than they do here
on the page!
p. 18
Soft Brights
Pale Avocado
I Love
This
Color
Morning Fog
2146-40
Benjamin Moore
SW 6255
Sher win Williams
Wythe Blue
Beacon Hill Damask
HC-143
Benjamin Moore
HC-2
Benjamin Moore
Grassland
SW 6163
Sher win Williams
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 19
Section 3:
Complementing
Your Walls
p. 20
Trim, Moulding
&
Door Colors
Decorating rule #1: ONLY use contrast if you want to accent something.
Your eye is always drawn to the most dramatic elements in a room,
contrast. Try it, the next time you walk into a new room, be conscious of
that fleeting second when you first take everything in. What do you
notice? It’s probably not the glass vase, or the toss cushion that’s the same
color as the couch. It’s the most dramatic element in the room, the vibrant
red vase or the bold paint color, it’s the aspect that has the most contrast.
So choose your features wisely because it will set the tone for the room.
And remember, you can’t feature everything in a room, if you do, the
space will overwhelm your senses and make you feel un-easy in the room.
How does this apply to your trim, moulding, and door colors in the room?
Well, you’re going to have to ask yourself if they are items you want to
feature? If your trim is fantastically ornate or you really just love it, then
feature it. However if your trim isn’t a stand out feature of the room then
you’ll want to downplay it. To show you what I mean, take a look at the
pictures below, what do you notice first?
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 21
Trim, Moulding
&
Door Colors
In the picture on the left, the trim and
door are a stand out feature because
they contrast. So if you want to feature
doors or trim (and you have dark walls),
choose an off-white paint color to
contrast. Or, if like the picture on the
right, you want to make your trim less of
a feature use a more diluted color on the
fan deck page to lessen the amount of
contrast. The closer the colors are on the
fan deck page, the more they match,
consequently lessening the impact of the
contrast and making the item less of a feature.
The same principle applies to door colors, 90% of
the time I recommend matching your door color
to the rest of the trim. Unless your doors are
custom milled they’re probably better off playing a
supporting role in the design, so, paint them the
same color as your trim.
DECOR AT
ING TIP
Ch o ose a
c o l o r t h t r im & do o r
a
OR t h e s t ’s l igh te r t h a n
ame a s y
o u r wa l l
color
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 22
Ceiling Colors
This decision is pretty simple, a light ceiling color will be best in most
rooms. Painting your ceiling a dark color just makes the room feel heavy,
and again, unless it’s a strong feature in the room it’s best to just let it fade
into the background by painting it off-white (or your trim color). Matching
your ceiling color to the trim will have a softer appearance that a simple
base white color. It doesn’t cost any more to have paint colors tinted so if
you are painting your ceilings, I suggest matching your ceiling color to
your trim/door color.
However, there are definitely exceptions, if you have a decorative border
around the entire perimeter the room then absolutely, go ahead and paint
it the same color as your walls. That leaves the center portion of the
ceiling off-white, and, your contrast between light and dark lays at the
most interesting feature of the ceiling, (the decorative border) it’s ideal!
The only other time that I recommend painting your ceiling a color, is in
rooms with low ceilings, like basements. Painting the ceiling the same
color as the walls can help to hide the transition between the two surfaces
making the room feel taller.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 23
Tonal White Rooms
I’ve been talking mostly about dark or mid-dark toned walls and haven’t
really talked about rooms with light colored walls.That’s because the
hardest part
about doing a
light colored
room is choosing
the elusive “right
white”, but you
already have an
entire list of the
best white’s! (so
you’re covered).
When you are
doing a tonal
white room
always choose the
same paint color
Benjamin Moore OC-14 Natural Cream
for everything, just
change up the paints’ sheen for each surface. Choose an eggshell finish
for the walls, a satin finish for the trim, mouldings and doors and matte
sheen for the ceiling. I’ll go into more detail about choosing the right
paint sheen for each surface a little later.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 24
Accent Walls
&
Faux Paint
Feature accent walls have long been the safety net for people who want a
bold color but are too afraid to commit to doing an entire room. If you are
afraid to commit to a bold color, that’s okay, just change your decorating
direction and add the bold color in accents like artwork or throw pillows
instead of opting for a single feature wall, it’ll look more stylish in the
end.
The freshest new way to do faux or feature paint is with stripes! Choose a
single wide stripe for a more modern feel or multiple stripes for a more
classic, traditional look.
Horizontal stripes
make the room
appear more
spacious.
Vertical stripes
make the room
look taller.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 25
Section 4:
Choosing
the Right Paint for
the Job
p. 26
Paint Sheen
&
Finish
Paint sheen refers to the reflective quality of the paint, how glossy or
matte the finish is. Generally speaking the higher the gloss the more
durable the paint, however shiny finishes will accentuate all of the surface
flaws, and no walls are perfectly smooth. ON the other hand though
shinier finishes will appear to have a deeper richer color because they
reflect light. So choosing the sheen and finish of your paint is a balancing
act between durability and beauty. Each paint manufacturer does things a
little different but here is a general guideline to follow, I do however
recommend talking to your paint store to get a better idea of which
product they recommend for your project.
Flat
Matte
Shiny
Eggshell
Satin Semi-Gloss Gloss High-Gloss
Matte Finish
This is the dullest finish that you can buy and it’s ideal for surfaces that
won’t see a lot of wear like ceilings. Particularly if you have smooth
ceilings, any glossiness to the paint will make even a good drywall job look
bad, and it’s even worse if you have a ceiling mount light fixture. Light
shining on the tiniest little bump or spec of dust in the paint will create a
highlight and a shadow, accentuating the imperfection. More and more
people are also choosing to go with a matte finish on their walls, and it
does look gorgeous. However, unless you choose a high performance paint
you will likely sacrifice durability so be sure to keep touch up paint close
at hand!
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 27
Paint Sheen
&
Finish
Eggshell, Pearl, or Satin
These finishes are fantastic for walls because they have a bit of sheen for
durability and produce a slightly richer looking color, but they are still
matte enough to hide the imperfections.
Semi-Gloss
This finish is most often used on doors, trim and railings because these
surfaces tend to take more abuse. Generally speaking a shinier finish is
easier to clean and won’t wear as quickly as a more matte finish. The
higher reflective quality of these paints will also produce a deeper, more
luminous color.
Gloss
The shiniest finish available and generally speaking the most resistant to
wear. These paints will also give your color the most depth because the
gloss acts a bit like a prism, highlighting the various undertones of the
paint. The downside to a shiny finish though is that often it’ll produce a
glare in direct light, so instead of seeing the color all you see is the
reflection of light. Glossy finishes will also make small surface scratches
more noticeable so I suggest opting for a semi-gloss finish in high traffic
areas.
High Performance Paints
The paint manufacturing process has changed dramatically over the last
couple of years due to increased demand for eco-friendly products, and
tougher legislation on VOC’s(volatile organic compounds) in paint. These
changes have resulted in a whole new class of paints that can perform and
last, irregardless of the sheen level. Check with your local paint store to
see of any of these exciting new options will work for your
project.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your Home
p. 28
Color Matching
There are a lot of myths about color matching. Yes, color matching is
possible and paint stores do it successfully everyday. Mistakes are still
possible, but with a few simple steps you can successfully have any of the
colors on this list made by your preferred brand, and it might even save
you some money.
Pre-Order Your Paint
If you want to have a color matched I suggest going into the paint store a
few days before you plan to start your project to order the paint. Most
weekend warriors will show up Saturday morning, over crowding the
store and pressuring on the technicians to work fast, creating a frustrating
situation for everyone. Color matching takes time, so set yourself up for
success and pre-order your paint. Often you can even call in the order a
few days early, to get a head start. A good paint store will keep a record of
colors they’ve matched in the past so they may already know the formula.
But even if they don’t, they will have samples on hand that they can use to
create your color match.
Check the Color
Once the paint is mixed the paint tech will dab a little sample of the color
on the lid of the paint can so that you can confirm that the color is
correct. DO THIS! Always check the color of every can by holding the
paper sample next to the paint on the lid. Each can is custom made so
there is always a chance that one can can be off, so check them all! If you
have a paint chip sample you can also swipe a little bit of the paint from
each can onto the paper sample. Once the paint dries you’ll be able to see
in a glance if the colors are a match, this is actually the best way to check
so if you have time I’d suggest picking up the colors’ actual paint
chip or ordering it online.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 29
Color Matching
Boxing Paint
Because the color of each can of paint may vary ever so slightly it’s a good
idea to mix them all together before you start. This process is called
“boxing paint” and it ensures that you are using the same color
throughout the room.
For example if you use one can of paint to cut in and a different can to
roll the walls you may see a slight color difference where they meet. To
avoid this problem simply pour any single 1 gallon cans of paint into a
large 5 gallon pail and mix them together. You can purchase a clean, unused 5 gallon pail from your paint store.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 30
Cost vs. Quality
Like pretty much everything in this world, you get what you pay for, and
paint is no exception. Paint is more than just a decorative feature in your
home, it’s also a protective coating. Paint’s primary role is to seal and
protect your drywall (or plaster)from whatever you throw at it, from
drinks, to vacuum hoses to toy trucks. So when choosing which paint to
put on your walls, I encourage you to weigh the options. If you have 5
kids, 3 dogs and 2 cats you may want to consider spending a little more to
purchase a higher quality paint so that your walls will look better, longer.
But if you live alone, and rarely spend time at home an economy
“Contractor Grade” might be all you need! I’m not against economy
paints I just want to give you enough information to make a wise decision.
Almost all paint manufacturers will produce different qualities of paint
ranging from $20/gallon to $150/gallon. I don’t endorse any one paint
over another, however I will say that I typically spend about $40/gallon for
my paint.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 31
Section 5:
Troubleshooting
p. 32
Troubleshooting
Why does my paint color change throughout the day?
This is likely the sign of a good quality paint, the many facets of the tint
are actually sparkling under the different light sources. Color can look
very different depending on the temperature of the light in the room.
Natural light is a warm, full-spectrum light whereas artificial light is a
lower temperature with a smaller spectrum range. But, that’s a lot of
technical mumbo-jumbo, that you don’t really need to spend a bunch of
time thinking about.
All you really need to know is what the color will look like at different
times of day, and the only way to do this is to put a sample on your wall.
But, because a color is so influenced by what surrounds it, don’t just paint
a sample over your old paint color. That’ll just show you what your new
color looks like against your old color, and NOT what your room will look
like with fresh new paint on your walls.
Start by painting a white square on your walls (primer will work). Then
once that’s dry paint a smaller square within the larger white square. This
method will produce a sample with a white border around it. The white
border will diminish the influence of the old wall color; giving you a
better idea of what the new color is going to look like once it’s on your
walls.
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 33
Troubleshooting
The Light Bulb Moment!
Your lightbulbs can have a big effect on the paint color. So if things are
looking odd, or weird in your room try changing your light bulbs. Again
the info gets pretty technical but a quick summary is that the lower the
Kelvin rating of the bulb the warmer the color. So if there is an eerie,
blue-ish, institutional feel in your room switch to a lower temperature
bulb (2,700 Kelvin). Or if your room gives off an orange or yellowish glow
opt for a higher temperature bulb (3,000 Kelvin).
The glass color of your light fixture can also affect the color in the room
in the same way. If your light fixture itself is the culprit either consider
replacing the fixture with one that has a neutral frosted glass shade, or
overcompensate for the glass color with your light bulb (i.e. use a 3,000K
bulb with a yellow shade). This trick doesn’t work all the time and it’ll
only work if the shade completely encompasses the bulb like it does with
most surface mount dome lights (a.k.a. boob lights!).
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 34
About the Author
As President and Creative Director of
decorateITonline.com, Sasha Stricker brings more
than 15 years of industry experience to the table. In
a career that began with staging and flipping her
own homes, Sasha has worked in several different
areas of Interior Decorating and Design, including
custom drapery and upholstery, space planning,
lighting, and color selection. Sasha also has more
than 10 years experience working with high-end homebuyers as Senior
Creative Consultant for a large estate-home builder. Her own residences
have been featured in the Style section of several local publications.
Sasha’s expertise and creative spirit are evident in every aspect of the
decorateITonline experience.
Favorite color: Benjamin Moore Wythe Blue HC- 143
Favorite Style: Warm-Classic-Eclectic
Favorite Find: An antique 1912 steamer trunk
Design Peeve: Furniture shoved up against the walls
Design Mantra: “A home is an extension of your personality, so make
it unique.”
Through a Decorators Eyes:
67 Irresistible Paint Colors for Your
Home
Ⓒ decorateITonline 2011
p. 35
Bonus
Extras!
How to Paint Like a Pro
&
Feng Shui Color Guide
p. 36
p. 37
How to
Paint Like a Pro
expertise by
words by
mark kennedy
sasha stricker
Copyright Ⓒ decorateITonline Inc. 2011
p. 38
Table of Contents
1.
Introduction ....................................................
40
2.
Prep for Success ...........................................
41
The Tools .......................................................
42
Prep Work ...................................................
43
Primers ...........................................................
44
Start Painting ..................................................
46
Cutting In ......................................................
47
Rolling .............................................................
48
Clean Up ...........................................................
50
Cleaning Rollers ........................................
51
Cleaning Paint Brushes .........................
52
5.
Tips & Tricks ...................................................
53
6.
About the Authors .....................................
55
3.
4.
p.p.39
39
Introduction
Painting is often regarded as the easiest and least intimidating of all do-it-yourself
projects. Rightfully so, you can completely transform the look of a room, easily, in
just a couple of days. But there is more to painting than just finding the fastest way
to get the paint from the can, onto the wall. With a little finesse and not much
more effort you too, can produce a professional looking paint job in your home.
So, what does a professional paint job look like? It seems like a fairly obvious
question but if you’re going to go to the effort of producing a top quality paint
job, you might as well know where the goal posts are!
A great paint job means...
✓ The paint ends up on the desired surface only. Not the cover plates,
ceiling, floor, door-knobs, baseboards, windows or doors!
✓ The paint is evenly applied to the entire surface and doesn’t “flash”.
Flashing is when (from certain angles) the wall surface looks unevenly
textured. This most often appears where the wall has been patched or if
the paint has been applied unevenly.
✓ Straight lines... enough said!
✓ There are no visible drips, brushstrokes or roller-marks on the walls.
✓ The paint actually sticks to the surface and doesn’t scratch or flake off.
I don’t mean to intimidate or discourage you. All of these problems are actually
easy to avoid if you follow the simple steps outlined on the next few pages.
Happy Painting!
p.p.40
40
Section 2
Prep for Success
p. 41
The Tools
The right tools make all the difference in the world to the final product. I understand the
logic of buying cheep so you can throw it away once the jobs done (and avoid the
dreaded cleaning process). BUT, the right tools will make your job easier, faster and
ultimately it will look better in the end.
Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need and why it’s worth the extra few buck to go with
good quality:
Roller Cage (handle)
A good cage will hold it’s shape and distribute the paint evenly on the wall. Cheeper
cages will flex when you apply pressure to them resulting in an uneven paint
distribution, and, they will leave roller marks on the wall.
Extension Poles
These are a must for a good paint job, I’ll get into the specifics later but even a wooden
broomstick will work.
Paint Tray
Good quality paint trays are slightly wider than the inexpensive alternative. This extra bit
of space will ensure that you don’t get a build up of paint in your cage. Excess paint in
your cage will end up splattering paint all over the place.You can also purchase tray
liners for mere pennies to make cleanup easier.
Roller Sleeves
It’s tempting to buy the cheapest sleeve available and throw it away when you’re done,
but cheap roller sleeves don’t hold enough paint to do a good job. It’ll take you twice as
long to paint a room and the results won't be as good. Use a 3/8" - 1/2" nap for flat paint
on walls and ceilings, a 3/4" nap for rough surfaces like textured ceilings, and a 1/4" nap
for satin or semi-gloss paint.
Paint Brushes
A good quality brush is designed to hold more paint and distribute the paint evenly on
the surface, saving you a ton of time and effort. The bristles are less likely to fall out (and
stick to your wall), and each bristle of a good quality brush is flagged. Flagged bristles are
the equivalent of “split ends” in human hair. This manufacturing process reduces the
visible brushstrokes left behind because you are applying the paint with a finer tip.
Purdy™ brushes are the longtime favorite of professional painters.
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42
Prep Work
There are a lot of intricacies involved in prep but I’ll give you a quick overview of the
most important points here. The quality of the prep work makes a BIG difference to the
finished look of your paint job. Realistically painters spend at least 1/2 their time on
prep. It’s not glamorous, in fact it’s kind of tedious but if you truly want a professional
looking paint job in your home, do what the pro’s do! A good prep job will make the
painting process go faster and result in less time spent on clean-up.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Give your Walls a Quick Wash to get off any loose particles and dust
as they will get stuck in your fresh paint and leave a bump.You may also want
to use a mild soap on particularly dirty or high traffic areas like around light
switches and door handles. Any oils from your hands that are left on the walls
may affect how the new paint adheres to the surface. For areas that have seen
a lot of splashes (like a kitchen or bathroom) you can also give the walls a
quick wash with a TSP solution to cut the grease.
Remove anything you don’t want paint on, like the cover-plates for
your switches and plugs, doorhandles, doorstops, light fixtures, etc. If you don’t
want paint on it, remove it! This is also a great chance to give everything a
good clean.
Patch all the holes; paint won’t fill holes. Use a thin layer of drywall
compound to fill the hole then sand down the patch with a sanding sponge so
that the edge of the patch is feathered to flush with the old paint surface.You
can shine a 100w lightbulb close to the wall to see if there is a ridge left from
the drywall compound. Any shadow created by the lightbulb will also be seen
after your final coat of paint. Paint doesn’t hide anything!
Pole sand your walls. Pole sanding your walls will scratch up the old paint
and give the new paint a better surface to bond to. One pass over the entire
surface of the wall is all you need and it really doesn’t take that long. Most
people skip this step, but it does make a difference, try it!
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43
Prep Work
5.
6.
Vacuum & Dust the room. Any wayward dust in the room has a really
good chance of ending up in your paint so give the room a good once over
before you actually start painting. If you have a compressor you can also “blow
out” the room before you vacuum. Blowing off the walls, baseboards and
ceilings will remove any loose dust from the walls and keep foreign
particulates out of the paint.
Caulk your millwork. Using paint grade caulking (a.k.a dap) to fill the gap
where your millwork (baseboards, casing, moulding) meets the walls. Squeeze a
small amount into the crevice then wipe the excess off with your finger. Keep
a wet rag with you at all times to remove the excess from your finger or the
wall.
WARNING: Don’t use silicone, paint won’t stick to it. Always
double check the label, it’ll say either paintable or “tub and tile”.
Use the paintable option.
7.
Tape off your baseboards, casing, electrical outlets, switches,
etc. People often skip this step because they’re eager to start painting.
However taping off everything before you start will save time and avoid oop’s.
A single length of tape over your baseboards will protect them from roller
splatter and make the cutting in (brush painting) process mush easier and
faster because you won’t have to try to create a free-hand straight line with
your brush. Even professional artistic painters have a hard time creating a
continuous straight line with a brush.
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44
Primer
There are a lot of misconceptions about primer and the confusion usually lies in
when and where to use it. So, the first thing you’ll need to know about primer is
it’s purpose; it’s a bonding agent and/or sealer, that’s all.
The chemical make-up of paint and primer is different, making it impossible for a
paint to act as a primer, or a primer to act as a paint. Primers are superior at
sealing and bonding but they won’t protect your drywall (or plaster) from daily life
and they’re not washable. Plus, primers are only available in one sheen and limited
colors.
If you’re simply re-painting, and know for sure that you are using the same type of
paint as what’s currently on your walls, (i.e. eggshell over eggshell) then you can
skip to the next section.You don’t need to prime before you paint.
You’ll need to prime your walls if...
➡ you are unsure of what type of paint is currently on your walls
➡ you’re painting new drywall
➡ you’re changing the sheen of the paint (i.e. from semi-gloss to satin)
Primer creates an even surface for the paint to adhere to. So for example if you
are painting new drywall, paint alone will absorb through the paper unevenly
causing flashing. This can also happen if you are re-painting over drywall repairs.
So it’s essential to prime the surface before you paint, this will seal the drywall
and/or patches, and give your paint an even surface to bond to.
Which brings us to primers’ other function, as a bonding agent. If you are covering
up a shiny surface, or oil based paints; primer, is again, essential. Paint needs
something to attach itself to and paint can’t bond with dis-similar surfaces. If a
paint can’t bond to a surface it will chip or peel off, and there’s no way to fix this
after the fact.
To prime your walls, use the same process as painting. All the steps are covered in
the next couple of pages, the only difference is that you’ll only ever need
one coat of primer.
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45
Section 3
Start Painting
If you are painting more than just the walls start with your
ceilings first, then paint your trim/doors/casings and finish
with the walls. Following this sequence will allow you to
paint the corners created by your ceiling or trim and
extend your paint over onto the wall. Once you’ve done
this you can then tape off these surfaces (after 24 hours)
and create a straight line with your wall paint.
p. 46
Cutting In
Brush paint around the
edges first. This step is
referred to as "cutting in".
Since rollers can’t get tight
to edges, the first painting
step is to brush along the
ceiling, inside corners and
moldings. Use enough
paint to cover the old
color but not so much that
the paint drips down the
wall. Also, make sure to
smooth out any ridges or
brushstrokes before you
move onto the next step.
cut in paint
around the
perimeter
PAINTING TIP:
Cover your baseboards with a single layer of painters tape installed so
that the edge of the tape sits in the corner where the baseboard meets
the wall. Gently run your finger over the tape to make sure its adhered.
You can then use the tape to create a straight line, just do a quick swipe
with the brush getting paint on both the wall and the tape. When you
remove the tape you’ll have a professional looking straight line. Just don’t
leave the tape on for more than 24 hours or there’ll be trouble!
p.p.47
47
Rolling
Forget EVERYTHING you’ve seen on TV.
Wrong!
This method will
produce flashing and
an uneven texture on
your walls.
Always apply the paint to the wall with a single sweeping stroke. This is where the
extension pole (or broomstick) comes in. By extending the length of your rollers
handle you’ll be able to stand a couple of feet back from the wall and use the
extension pole as a lever. This’ll give you more control and allow you to cover
more area without having to
bend and stretch.
1.
Start about 12" from the bottom
and 6" from the corner and roll
upward at a slight angle using
light pressure. Stop a few inches
from the ceiling and only cover
about a 3’ wide section. At this
point you’re just getting the paint
on the wall, so you can leave
paint buildup and roller marks,
you'll be smoothing it out in the
next step.
p.p.48
48
Rolling
2.
Re-load the roller and work
backwards over the section
you just started, filling in the
unpainted space. Using very light
pressure roll up and down from
floor to ceiling. With each stroke
move over about three-quarters of
a roller width so you’re always
slightly overlapping the previous
stroke to ensure that you’re
applying the paint evenly and
eliminating the roller marks. When
you reach the corner, roll as close
as you can to the adjacent wall
without touching it.
3.
Re-load the roller and
repeat the entire process in
the adjacent wall space.
Work back toward the wet edge of
the freshly painted area, this is
crucial to all top-quality paint jobs.
The idea is to plan the sequence of
work and work fast enough so that
you’re always lapping newly applied
paint onto paint that’s still wet. If
you stop for a break in the middle
of a wall, for example, and then start
painting after this section has dried,
you’ll likely see an overlap mark
where the two areas join.
4.
Once all of the walls in the room are done remove any tape from your millwork
as soon as you finish painting. Tape should be removed from fresh paint within
24 hours of the tapes’ original application.
p.p.49
49
Section 4
Clean Up
It’s probably the last thing that you want to do at the end
of the day, but if you’ve invested in good quality tools don’t
waste your money. Suck it up and clean your tools!
p. 50
Cleaning Rollers
3 Steps: 8 minutes
1.
Scrape excess paint from the roller back
into the paint can before you wash it. Use
either a putty knife, or curved handle end
of a paint mixing stick. Most paint stores
will offer them for free with your paint
purchase!
2.
Wash the roller with warm water and a
mild laundry detergent. Lather up the roller
and scrub the mat with your fingers like
you are washing a short-haired dog. The
detergent will pull a lot of the paint residue
out of the mat and make the next step
easier.
3.
Rinse the roller cover until the water runs
clear. Then fluff the sleeve by spinning out
the water into a bucket. A roller and paint
brush spinning tool, available at hardware
and paint stores, simplifies the cleaning
task. Finish off, by standing the sleeve on
one end and leaving it to air dry.
p.p.5151
Cleaning Paint Brushes
4 Steps: 10 minutes
1.
Using warm tap water, rinse your brush
thoroughly. Rest the brush on the bottom of
the sink, then leaving the bristles resting on the
sink base tilt the handle to a 90 degree angle
(so that it’s pointing to the ceiling) and direct
the flow of water towards where the bristles
and the handle meet. Pump the handle up and
down to squish water into the center of the
brush. Flip over and repeat.
2.
Once most of the paint is out of the brush
apply a small dollop of mild detergent to the
bristles and massage gently in a downward
motion ensuring that you don’t kink the
bristles. Rinse again and keep rinsing until the
water coming out of the brush runs completely
clear.
TIP
3.
If you have stubborn bits of dried paint near the
top of the bristles you can also use a wire brush to
brush out the dried paint. This works really well,
just make sure that you use long downward
strokes so that you don’t kink the bristles.
Once the brush is clean flick out the excess
water using short, sharp flicks of your wrist.
Then use your fingers to form the brush back to
it’s original shape with all the bristles aligned
straight and no “V’s” of separated bristles. Hang
to dry.
p.p.52
52
Section 5
Tips & Tricks
p. 53
Tips & Tricks
Painting is easier and more fun if you do what the pro’s do:
★
To minimize shedding, wrap the new roller sleeve with masking tape and peel it
off to remove loose fibers. Repeat this a few times.
★
Keep a wet rag in your pocket and pick lumps off the wall as you go or wash off
ooop’s as soon as they happen. Wet paint is easier to clean up than dry paint.
★
If you’re getting a lot of foreign particles in your paint you can strain your paint
using a metal mesh kitchen strainer. Place the strainer over a clean can and pour
the lumpy paint through the strainer into the clean can. A cheep dollar store
mesh basket strainer will work fine (and keep your cook happy).
★
If your painting project is going to take more than a day you can save some time
by simply covering your paint and tools overnight so you don’t have to clean
them. Fill your roller with paint and place it in the tray (in the paint). Then place
your tray and roller inside a clean white kitchen trash bag, press out all of the air
and twist the top closed. Tuck the twisted opening under a leg to prevent air from
re-entering the bag. If you do this well, the paint will stay wet and you can reuse
the roller again the next day. You can also wrap your paint brush in a separate bag
using the same process. This trick will only work if you’ll be using your tools the
next day, if you leave it longer the paint will dry out and crust over on your tools
making them even harder to clean.
Happy Painting!
p.p.54
54
About the Authors
mark kennedy
A professional painter for over 20 years Mark is a trusted and
respected authority on anything to do with paint or the painting
process. Mark and his highly skilled crew spend most of their days in
multi-million dollar homes; they are the preferred pro’s for high end
custom home builders and homeowners alike. Marks perfectionist
nature and relentless attention to detail has earned him the
reputation for being “the best in the business”.
Favorite Color: Benjamin Moore Norwich Brown #HC-19
Favorite Style: Artisanal-Organic-Elemental
Favorite Find: An antique brass microscope (circa 1930) that once belonged to his
grandfather
Design Peeve: White walls with oak trim (from the late 1980′s)
Design Mantra: “I love Frank Lloyd Wright’s style. Anything natural…wood, metal,
stone, water.”
sasha stricker
As President and Creative Director of decorateITonline.com, Sasha
Stricker brings more than 15 years of industry experience to the
table. In a career that began with staging and flipping her own
homes, Sasha has worked in several different areas of Interior
Decorating and Design, including custom drapery and upholstery,
space planning, lighting, and color selection. Her own residences have
been featured in the Style section of several local publications.
Favorite color: Benjamin Moore Wythe Blue HC- 143
Favorite Style: Warm-Classic-Eclectic
Favorite Find: An antique 1912 steamer trunk
Design Peeve: Furniture shoved up against the walls
Design Mantra: “A home is an extension of your personality, so make it unique.”
p.p.55
55
p. 56
When it comes to choosing the best colors
for the rooms in your home the options can
be overwhelming. Personal preferences
aside, certain colors just work better in
certain rooms than others. One thing that I often find helpful when
choosing colors is to employ the principles
of feng-shui. Feng-shui (literally “windwater”) is the ancient Chinese art of
arranging our surroundings in such a way
as to maximize health, love, and prosperity
for ourselves and our families. In addition to furniture and object
arrangement, feng-shui principles also
dictate that certain colors are more
auspicious or favorable than others.
p. 57
Stimulating and dominant, red makes a wonderful
accent color in a variety of rooms. It is associated with
warmth, prosperity, and stimulation, but also with
anger, hatred, and shame. Red is not recommended
RED
for dining rooms, children’s bedrooms, kitchens, or
workshops.
Associated with enlightenment and intellect, yellow
stimulates the brain and also aids with digestion. On
the positive side yellow promotes optimism, reason,
and decisiveness, with exaggeration and rigidity being
YELLOW
it’s negatives. Suitable for hallways and kitchens, but
not for meditation rooms or bathrooms.
Symbolizing growth, fertility, and harmony, green is
both restful and refreshing. Linked with optimism,
freedom, and balance, green can also encourage envy
and deceit. Green is a great choice for therapy rooms,
GREEN
conser vatories, and bathrooms, but is not
recommended for family rooms, playrooms, or studies.
Peaceful and soothing, blue is linked with spirituality,
mystery, and patience. It’s positives are a sense of
trust, faithfulness, and stability, while its negatives are
suspicion and melancholy. Blue is a great choice for
BLUE
meditation rooms, bedrooms, and therapy rooms, but
not for family rooms, dining rooms, or studies.
p. 58
Impressive, dignified, spiritual, and vital, purple has
long been linked with royalty.
Associated with
excitement, passion, and motivation, purple can also
inspire mournfulness and force. Purple works well in
PURPLE
bedrooms and meditation rooms, but is not an
auspicious choice for bathrooms and kitchens.
Associated with purity of thought, happiness, and
romance, pink is one of the only colors without
negative connotations (though, ironically, it is one of
the most challenging colors to work with for
decorators). Suitable for bedrooms and meditation
PINK
rooms, it is not recommended for kitchens and
bathrooms.
Powerful and cheerful, orange encourages open
communication. Positives are a sense of happiness,
concentration, and intellect, with rebelliousness being
its primary negative. Orange is wonderful in living
ORANGE
rooms, dining rooms, and hallways, but is too bold for
small rooms and bedrooms.
Providing a sense of stability and weight, brown has a
very grounding presence. On the positive side, brown
is linked with safety and elegance, but its negatives
include dinginess, depression, and aging. It is a great
BROWN
color for studies and living rooms, but is not
recommended for bedrooms.
p. 59
Symbolizing purity, innocence, and new beginnings,
white is the most versatile interior color. Positives
include a feeling of freshness and cleanliness, with its
negatives being starkness and a lack of warmth. White
WHITE
is ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and common areas,
but not for dining rooms and children’s rooms.
Mysterious and independent, black is the neutral that
always looks chic. On the plus side, black is intriguing,
strong, and alluring, but, as expected, it is also
associated with evil, darkness, and death. Often used
in teenagers’ rooms and dining rooms, it is not
BLACK
recommended for small children’s rooms, studies, or
living rooms.
p. 60