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1x2 purl
Offset, information included in notations
which indicates that combinations of
structural elements, such as T tuck
stitches or T float stitches are staggered
vertically in relation to each other. Examples of this are illustrated in T single-face:
float stitch single jersey, T single-face:
Fred Perry and T single-face: single jersey fleece.
O
OE rotor yarn, (Synonym: rotor yarn), openend yarn produced on an OE rotor spinning
machine. During production, there is no
connection between the sliver and the T
yarn to be produced. Relatively coarse
yarns with a yarn count of up to Nm 80 are
produced. The fibres in OE rotor yarns run
less parallel to the yarn axis than in T ringspun yarns, where more T fibres are required in the yarn cross-section for the
same strength. Rotor yarns are yarns with
core twist and therefore the stability of the
yarn is greater inside than outside. OE rotor
yarn has high abrasion resistance and relatively low T hairiness. It is recognizable by
so-called “belly bands” which are created
by long fibres wrapping themselves directly
around the yarn. In comparison to ring-spun
yarns, OE rotor yarns are stiffer, leading to a
harder T handle of the knitted fabrics.
a
0
1
Offset pillar stitch lapping, type of T pillar stitch lapping in T warp knits. It can be
carried out with open or closed laps. It is
produced on single needle bar or double
needle bar T warp knitting machines.
Old knitted loop, the T knitted loop
formed in the previous knitting cycle,
which is still present on the T needle.
1x1 purl, T purl: 1x1 purl.
1x1 rib, T rib: 1x1 rib.
1x2 purl, T purl: 1x2 purl.
b
2
0
1
c
2
3
0
1
2
Offset pillar stitch lapping
a) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1/1-2//
b) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/2-3/3-2/2-3/3-2//
c) Double-face: 1-2-2-2/1-0-0-0//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
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Open atlas lapping
Open atlas lapping, type of T atlas lapping in T warp knits with T open knitted
loops and usually T closed knitted loops
in the T change of direction courses.
Open back-lapped atlas lapping, type of
T atlas lapping in T warp knits with T
open knitted loops and T closed knitted
Open atlas lapping, 4-course with closed
change of direction courses (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
Open back-lapped atlas lapping, 3-course with
closed change of direction courses (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
0
1
2
3
4
5
Open atlas lapping, 4-course with closed
change of direction courses (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
Open back-lapped atlas, T single face:
open back-lapped double atlas.
146
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Open back-lapped atlas lapping, 3-course with
closed change of direction courses (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 1-0/2-3/4-5/6-7/5-4/3-2//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
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Open satin lapping
loops in the T change of direction courses and T underlaps under two T needles.
Open cord lapping, type of T cord lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping
under two T needles, resulting in T open
knitted loops.
a
b
Open knitted loops
a) Symmetrical open knitted loop
b) Unsymmetrical open knitted loop
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
sinker loop (produced by
ping).
Open cord lapping (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
T
underlap-
Open pile, T pile.
Open pillar stitch lapping, type of T pillar stitch lapping in T warp knits with T
open knitted loops.
0
1
2
3
Open cord lapping (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 0-1/3-2//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
Opening, T open-work.
Open-knit fabric, (Synonym: net-type
fabric), T open-work structure.
Open knitted loop, T knitted loop in
which the T limbs of the loop are parallel.
T Weft knitted fabrics consist almost exclusively of open loops. In T warp knits,
where loops are referred to as laps, open
laps are created when the direction of one
T sinker loop (produced by T overlapping) is the same as the subsequent
Open pillar stitch lapping (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO]
Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle overlap, type of T two-needle overlap
in T warp knits. It results in T open knitted loops formed by two T needles.
Open satin lapping, type of T satin lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping
under three T needles, resulting in T
open knitted loops.
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Open-stem slide needle
Open-stem slide needle, design of T
compound needle in which the T tongue
0
Open satin lapping (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
1
Open pillar stitch lapping (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 0-1/1-0//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
0
Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle overlap (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
1
2
3
4
Open satin lapping (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 0-1/4-3//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
slides into a groove on the T needle stem.
Previously, tubular pipe needles were
used instead of open-stem slide needles.
Open tricot lapping, type of T tricot lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping
under one T needle, resulting in T open
knitted loops.
Open tricot lapping with two-needle
overlap, type of T two-needle overlap in
T warp knits. It results in T open knitted
loops formed by two T needles.
0
1
2
Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle overlap (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 0-2/2-0//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
148
Open velvet lapping, type of T velvet
lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping under four or more T needles, resulting in T open knitted loops.
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Open-width device
Open tricot lapping (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
0
1
2
3
Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap
(lapping diagram). Single-face: 0-2/3-1//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
0
1
2
Open tricot lapping (lapping diagram)
Single-face: 0-1/2-1//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
Open velvet lapping under 4 needles (loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
0
Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap
(loop structure)
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
1
2
3
4
5
Open velvet lapping under 4 needles (lapping diagram). Single-face: 0-1/5-4//
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
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Pattern bar (PB)
P
Part-set threaded warp inlay, term for a
lapping movement which is carried out
by a guide bar, in which yarns are only
threaded over a certain part of the T
working width, as with T selvedge yarns
and reinforcement yarns.
T
Parallel weft insertion, method of inserting T weft threads as a T yarn sheet on
certain T stitch-bonding machines in
which the weft threads are at 90° to the
processing direction. To achieve this, the
speeds of the T weft carriage and the
side-mounted T conveyor chains must be
synchronized. The weft threads are delivered to the knitting point individually and
the yarns are stitched T in line with the
stitch courses.
Partially fashioned piece, type of T
shaping. Knitted piece with a welt
and selvedges created by T widening. It
is not possible to carry out T narrowing
by interlacing the T selvedge stitches.
The T working width can be decreased
by T pressing off T knitted loops in
staggered T press-off shaping. Cutting
is required.
pressing off
knitted loops
widening
Sleeve as a partially fashioned piece, weft knitted on a flat knitting machine
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
Part-set threading, (Synonym: patterned
threading), yarns are only threaded into
some of the yarn guides of the T guide
bars of a T warp knitting machine, usually in a repeating sequence, such as 1
threaded yarn guide (in) and 1 yarn guide
with no thread (out), i.e. 1 in/1 out. Partset threading is used for surface designs
or for open-work structures (T lace). If
two guide bars knitting together are partially threaded and complement each
other to make one full-set threading, this
is called T half-set threading.
Patent needle, T carbine needle.
Pattern, 1. The result of material, colour
or structural design or ornamentation on a
knitted fabric. The pattern can be created
during production of the knitted fabric,
during finishing, e.g. by printing, or during
making-up. Patterns are often based on a
T construction and are created by using
yarns of different colours, finenesses or
structures and/or by combining different
constructions. The T pattern repeat is
usually larger than the T knitting repeat.
2. In English, the pattern can refer to the T
knitting notation.
Pattern bar (PB), T guide bar on T warp
knitting machines, onto which T pattern
yarn guides are mounted. These are attached to the guide bar according to the
pattern at relatively long, sometimes uneven intervals. Pattern bars T lay in yarns
as warp inlays with large repeats. To drive
the pattern bars, T pattern chains with
special chain links, T summary drives or
T string bars are used.
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Pattern chain
0
1
2
3
4
0
GB1
1
2
GB2
3
0
4
1
2
GB3
Warp knit with surface design by part-set threading of the two front guide bars; tricot/satin lapping
in opposite directions over tricot, closed (continued overleaf)
Single-face: GB1: (3-4/1-0)x4/(2-3/2-1)x2//
GB2: (2-3/2-1)x4(3-4/1-0)x2//
GB3: (1-2/1-0)x6//
Threading: GB1 8 in/4 out//, GB2 8 out/4 in//, GB3 fully threaded
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
Pattern chain, sequence of moving metal
chain links which are joined one inside the
other or with hinges, and form a circle and
are used to drive the T guide bars on T
warp knitting machine. The individual
chain links are of different heights. The difference in height between two adjacent
chain links determines the size of the lateral shogging movement of the guide bar.
Pattern chain link, (Synonym: chain link),
piece of a T pattern chain with a certain
height and a certain length. Depending on
its height, the chain links are numbered as
0, 1, 2, 3, 4 etc. The number indicates by
how many needle spacings the guide bar
152
should be shogged. The heights of the
chain links must be appropriate for the T
needle pitch of the machine. According to
a
b
c
Chain links as elements of pattern chains
a) A-link (with no chamfering)
b) B-link (chamfered at the front)
c) C-link (chamfered at the back)
d) D-link (chamfered at both ends)
Courtesy of: [Liba]
d
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Pattern disc
Warp knit with surface design by part-set threading of the two front guide bars; tricot/satin lapping
in opposite directions over tricot, closed (continued overleaf)
Single-face: GB1: (3-4/1-0)x4/(2-3/2-1)x2//
GB2: (2-3/2-1)x4(3-4/1-0)x2//
GB3: (1-2/1-0)x6//
Threading: GB1 8 in/4 out//, GB2 8 out/4 in//, GB3 fully threaded
Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
the length of the chain link, a distinction is
made between T standard chain links (Ntype), normally for T tricot warp knitting
machines and T long chain links (E-type)
for T raschel warp knitting machines.
Pattern chain tensioner, device on T
warp knitting machines for guiding and
tensioning long T pattern chains for warp
knits with relatively large T repeats in the
course direction. Chain tensioners have
now been replaced by T electronic guide
bar control, which is more reliable, guarantees more precise shogging and enables patterns to be changed more quickly and easily.
Pattern course, part of a T stitch course
in multi-coloured Jacquard patterns or in
T double knit courses. In Jacquard patterns the T stitch courses are formed
from two, three or four different coloured
T yarns. Two, three or four knitting cycles
(pattern courses) are required to knit one
T stitch course.
Pattern disc, T cam disc for driving the
T ground bars on T warp knitting machines with regard to the lateral shogging
movement (T guide bar shogging). The
front surface of the pattern disc is curved
and is felt by a roller. The number of shogging movements stored on the circumference of the cam disc influences the T
pattern repeat. During one revolution of
the pattern disc, for example, 8, 10, 12 or
16 stitch courses are knitted. The maximum possible course repeat on the pat-
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Pattern drum
tern disc is limited. Pattern discs are produced for a particular T needle pitch and
T lapping movement and are normally
limited to a particular guide bar position
(e.g. for GB 1). Their curved polished surface enables quiet machine operation, optimum shogging distances and therefore
maximum T machine speeds.
M
1–0
1–
2
Pattern disc for the back guide bar of a tricot
warp knitting machine with a machine gauge of
E 28, closed tricot lapping 1-0/1-2//, 16 knitting
cycles, 3 links per course.
Courtesy of: [Liba]
guide bars on T warp knitting machines.
For each guide bar, there is a data carrier
(T pattern chain or T pattern disc).
These are combined together onto one T
pattern drum (single-drum drive) and
driven by the T transmission shaft. The
transmission ratio (T links per course)
between the transmission shaft and the
patterning device determines the number
of chain links or the length of the region
on the drive surface of the T pattern
disc, which is available for one knitting
cycle. If all guide bars operate at the
same rate, a single-drum drive is used,
either an N-patterning device (with T
standard chain links) or an E patterning
device (with elongated chain links). There
are also two-drum drives (NE pattern device or EH pattern device) when guide
bars operate with different numbers of
links per course. Different data carriers
can be combined, e.g. pattern discs for
the T ground bars and pattern chains for
the T pattern bars.
Pattern drum, cylindrical holder of data
storage devices for controlling the shogging movement of T guide bars on T
warp knitting machines. The T pattern
chains are inserted into the tracks of the
pattern disc. The circumference of the
drum, in conjunction with the type of
chain link, determines the maximum possible course repeat. The repeat can be
extended by fitting a pattern chain tensioner.
pattern chain
Patterned threading,
ing.
T
part-set thread-
Patterning, 1. Process of creating a
pattern.
2. Overall effect of a pattern.
T
Patterning device, drive for controlling
the lateral shogging movement of the T
154
pattern disc
Patterning device to control the lateral shogging
movement of the guide bars on warp knitting
machines with a pattern chain or pattern disc as
the data carrier.
Courtesy of: [KMO]
Patterning unit, normally computer-aided unit for creating and preparing T patterns. A patterning unit can belong to one
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Pelerine point
knitting machine or several machines can
be networked to a patterning unit.
Pattern presser, working element at the
knitting point of T straight-bar knitting
machines or T warp knitting machines
with T bearded needles. In contrast to the
presser, the pattern presser is designed
so that it either presses or skips (does not
press) needles. This produces T tuck
stitch patterns.
Pattern repeat, repeating unit of a pattern in a knitted fabric, normally relating to
the colour design, such as striped or
checked patterns. In T weft knitted fabrics, the pattern repeat is largely determined by the choice of yarn carrier and in
T warp knits by the colour sequence of
the T threading, e.g. 10A, 6B, 12C.
T
pattern yarn guide
Pattern yarn guide on a raschel warp knitting
machine
Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]
Pearl lace, T single-face: pearl lace.
Pea tulle, relatively coarse T honeycomb
tulle with up to 30 T holes per inch and
hexagonal, almost circular openings. Pea
tulle is a T bobbinet tulle.
Pattern unit, T stitch.
Pattern yarn, yarn which is processed in
addition to one or more T ground yarns
and normally appears on the T effect side
of the knitted fabric (e.g. T embroidery
plating on weft knitted fabrics). In warp
knitted fabrics, pattern yarns are normally
T laid in as warp inlays or bound into the
knitted ground as loops (T fall plate patterns), in which the yarn density of the pattern yarns is lower than the yarn density of
the ground yarns. The pattern yarns are
fed via pattern warp beams and T pattern
yarn guides.
Pattern yarn guide, working element for
guiding yarns on T warp knitting machines which are laid into the knitted
ground as pattern yarns. Pattern yarn
guides are screwed onto the T pattern
bar at certain intervals. Several pattern
yarn guides can operate in one T shogging line if required.
PB, abbreviation of T pattern bar.
Pea tulle produced on a bobbinet machine
Courtesy of: [Götz/Hennig, 1960]
Pelerine point, working element at the
knitting point of T sinker wheel knitting
155