Ronda of Rough
Bandits’ Hideouts
“Nothing is out of place here,
the luminous city
high above calms us.
Antonio Gala, On Ronda
hese lands are independent, by the grace and fault of their
isolated geography. The steep ground is as inhospitable as it is
generous and centuries-old customs persevere at all costs.
Enslaved by the peninsula’s history, in which they have also played a
starring role, these peoples have suffered and benefited from virtually
every culture from all shores of the nearby Mediterranean. They have
been wise converts to the many religions and cultures which have
managed to reach these heights.
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RONDA
And Its Parador
The resulting symbioses were generous, evolving over prolonged
periods. The blessed Arab invaders were able to share, rather than simply
invade, and understand rather than simply impose. Moors, Jews, and
Christians built a co-existence supported by mutual tolerance.
This unusual city is located atop a rock mass in a chain of steep crags
set on an almost impenetrable high mesa. It was established as an
impregnable defensive redoubt, the leader of these mountain lands.
The traveler should remember that this is one of the oldest and most
noble cities on the peninsula. Its people are proud to a fault, the
descendents of Paleolithic ancestors. There is abundant evidence of this
past: caves like La Pileta and
megalithic necropoli, such as those known as Encinas Borrachas, Dólmen
del Chopo, and La Giganta.
So ancient is Ronda that it already merited attention in the time of
Pliny and the other fathers of history. It would be known and recognized
as such during the 10th century, under the fruitful and indulgent rule of
the Arabs. “Its castle is very strong and very ancient,” wrote the immortal
traveler Al-Rasí.
Another celebrated Muslim, Abú al Fidá, said that Ronda was an
“elegant and lofty city in which the clouds serve as a turban, and its
towers as a sword belt.”
As today’s visitor will well know, this peninsula, somewhat erroneously
known as the Iberian, is granddaughter, daughter, and niece of
civilizations which are actually southern: wise, irrevocable Mediterranean
blends, products of fertile invasions across these lands and seas.
History has Ronda being conquered very early on, perhaps by a son of
King Muza. The city was Arab for some seven centuries. None can deny
that during this entire period the town enjoyed significant military, political,
and cultural power, much greater than that of lands both near and far.
“Ronda, strong and loyal” (Charles I , Emperor of all Spain). The
Christian rebels arrived, presumptuous and arrogant heirs of the infidels
and of the abundant harvests of those who had cultivated more refined
customs and cultures for so long. In the end the emperor was right: no
sooner had the Mudejar rebellion been put down than these lands of Ronda
“became depopulated.”
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The passage of the now
modern times soon became
accelerated and inexorable,
and ranching among the
people of Ronda
(Rondeños) gave way to
other activities unrelated to
local habits and customs.
Fierce wars would erupt in
the mountains, repressed by
the Duke of Arcos, acting on
the king’s behalf, who stated:
“These are people of ancient
and ferocious bravery.”
Ronda Does Not Surrender
A
ll in all, Rondeños are both moderate and obstinate. They have
always known what they wanted. And so, out of their love for
nature and their vocation for bullfighting, they succeeded in building, not
without great difficulty, no less that one of the first bullrings in the entire
peninsula and other lands. It was 1672 when the Real Maestranza de
Caballería de Ronda was born, an act which confirmed the town’s role as
universal cradle of the bullfight. Thus did Ronda consecrate an art, a rite,
and a powerful collection of folklore, craft, and even sociology, all derived
from this first singular event.
However, it would be no easy business. During the reign of Felipe V,
the monarch (perhaps a visionary) sought to put an end to the growing
popularity of the “savage” bullfight as a leisure activity. At this time,
the “fight” consisted solely of noble horsemen spearing a few bulls.
During one parry, one of the men was unhorsed by the horned beast,
and it would be the spontaneous and immortal Francisco Romero who
would save the noble bullfighter’s life.
And so it would be here that, in a similar fashion, the bullfight was to
be born as a spectacle, rite, craft, and culture. “Ronda is much ado about
bullfighting,” as the saying goes.
The universal recognition of Ronda’s bullfighting artistry has also been
vouched for by names as eternal as Rafael Alberti, José Bergamín, Jorge
Luis Borges, and Federico García Lorca.
“Highlands of Ronda, / round ring.
The light of the bullfight / measures your worth.
Peace of Iberia, you overcome / My pure Ronda,
Ring of light without a festival / Long-lasting rose”
Gerardo Diego
Much else would occur along these rugged yet surprisingly welcoming
lands. After intense hardship, persistent plague, and even some
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RONDA AND ITS PARADOR
earthquakes, Ronda would at last experience a period of somewhat greater
pleasure than pain. It would be the 18th century before it would to some
extent recover its ancient splendors. At last the town of Ronda recovered
its early strength and could finally stand tall and proud as what it was,
what it sought to be, and what it is today: the queen of Ronda.
The town’s inhabitants also assiduously participate in learned cultural
pursuits with an impeccable pedigree. In the mid-19th century, this
powerful city also wanted to excel in the area of information and
knowledge of the events of the turbulent world of the time. Perhaps it was
due to its isolation, its resolve, and its need for communication that this
city would come to generate such a demand for information that Ronda
can still boast of being the town with the greatest number of newspapers
in publication since the mid-19th century.
-In 1850, publication of El Rondeño, a general interest newspaper,
began.
-In 1868, Órgano de Móstoles was born.
-In 1883, El Eco de la Serranía began publication.
-1889 saw the start of El Globo, a periodical with Republican leanings,
run by Emilio Castelar. There were also other important titles, such as La
voluntad del Pueblo, El Tajo, and La Justicia.
Of the Blessed Train
and Strangely Generous
Bandits
t the dawn of the 19th century Ronda also enjoyed the privilege
of premiering the railroad: a strange contraption capable of
safely transporting – free from the dangers of stagecoach robbers – large
numbers of passengers. It would run from Bobadilla to Algeciras, with
British conveyances and concessions, passing through Ronda, where there
was a stop and an inn.
A
The railroad would
turn out to be an
exceptional –and
virtually the only–
communication route
for people, goods, and,
above all, the traffic of
ideas, ideologies, and
customs arriving from
far-off and generally
unknown places. The
train was the great
revolution. But such an
effective means of
communication likewise
turned out to be an
excellent vehicle for
hiding and accelerating
the efficiency of
banditry. The muchfeared horsemen came
to enjoy such ubiquity
that was difficult to control them. “While one gang of horsemen took the
mountain route, another group, dressed as ladies, traveled by train to
the agreed-upon point.”
Many of these personalities were feared, respected, and even admired
throughout the mountains. As a result of the general poverty of the
region, an association with a significant symbol, “The Black Hand” or
“La Mano Negra,” was born. So popular would this group be that
throughout a large part of the peninsula, it became the tag-line of a
brand of razor blades: “Better: Mano Negra.”
According to the information available, this was an anarchist
organization,
capable of
imposing justice
through its cruel
methods. In the
end, harsh
government
repression was able
to bring an end to
La Mano Negra,
but not to the
bandit horsemen.
In 1879, Ronda
saw important
violent workingclass uprisings,
attributed to
anarchists at the
time. Additionally,
restless and
rebellious Ronda
and its lands
provided a tolerant climate, allowing outlaws and smugglers to find safe
refuge in these mountains.
Not a few horsemen and bandits achieved fame, and sometimes even
the respect and admiration of the people. El Tragabuches is one example.
El Tragabuches:
Bullfighter and Bandit
osé Ulloa, or Tragabuches, was a gypsy and distinguished
bullfighter of the school of Pedro Romero, under the protection
of the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda. He was officially initiated
in Salamanca in 1802. It appears that he justifiably enjoyed “indisputable
fame owing to his sober, relaxed, and effective bullfighting style.”
During the following years a place was found for almost everything: a
pit for cockfights; a prison, which was later the city hall and is today the
Parador Nacional de Turismo; three pharmacies; a number of printers;
four parish churches; taverns and other numerous spots for palaver
between liberals and conservatives.
Not long after the turn of the 20th century the Modernist Pavilion was
set up in the city. Its principal attraction would be a “cinematographic
device” capable of projecting films such as La Huelga, Venecia en
Góndola and La Caza del Jabalí.
In 1924 the entire region, led by Ronda, agreed to create the Highlands
Association, with one clear objective: “Disunity must be replaced by a
perfect concert of wills, suspicion by cordial intelligence, age-old apathy
by enthusiastic and industrious action,” reported the local periodical El
Fénix.
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RONDA AND ITS PARADOR
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Finally, and inevitably, this city and its surroundings suffered
the consequences of a War which was as Civil as it was
uncivilized. The post-war period brought disquieting problems
for the victorious armies who had rebelled against the
Constitution in force. The un-resigned maquis – men and
women who harbored fruitless hopes – would continue to resist
in these mountains, enduring infinite hardship and gaining no
glory, another trap set by history.
Parador of the Dark
Brown Eyes
“Ronda, Ronda,
if you’re not hiding, hide away now!
Former political warning, today a child’s rhyme
his popular phrase extended throughout the peninsula, at least.
Many an academic has applied the childish lines to this noble
and strategic town.
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There are reasonable indications that the saying refers to the refuge
which Ronda provided from very early on to the innumerable strangers
who came to its door. Some came in conquest; many sought shelter,
perhaps fleeing past sins; some came searching for inner peace. There
came renegade Jews who refused to accept their expulsion at the hands of
the Catholic Monarchs; Muslims of all shapes and sizes, who knew how to
live with different races and religions; and Christians who were able to
coexist well. All were united by local ties, ways, and customs, living far
removed from the military ambitions of kings, warriors, and guerillas who
made common cause of diverse fervors. Today they might be Christians,
tomorrow Muslims.
This and many other similar areas have almost always suffered ongoing
anxiety and unease.
Visitors will already know that the Parador where they are staying has
been a privileged witness to remote times filled with real stories and
truthful legends, miracles and feats. However, guests can also boast of
being amongst the history of literature, and generous bandits, bullfighters
and the many wise people who managed to discover this incredible spot –
long before the floods of tourists. In reality, this spectacularly designed
Parador is a viewpoint, an exceptional balcony which has boldly
dominated the past and looks into the future. This natural and rugged
frontier is as tolerant as it is independent.
The Parador is built on the site of the former city hall. Fortunately, the
original façade has been preserved, with arcades, cornices, and even the
early clock.
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RONDA AND ITS PARADOR
Just next to the Parador the visitor will find the New Bridge, so called to
contrast it with the other “old” ones, which are thought to have Roman or
even Arab origins. What is certain is that this incredible and vertiginous
bridge crowns and connects the two parts of this exceptional town. Since
its conception in 1788, its almost 200 meters have stood tall and proud.
Above the central arch there is a vaulted chamber known locally as the
Prison, because that is what it would be for a time.
The location of this Parador is so excellent that regular guests have no
real preference as to the view from their particular room. This is not
surprising, given that they either face the south, where lies the heart of
town; or the east, a stone’s throw from the bullring; the south, overlooking
the beautiful deep scar which divides the two joined neighborhoods of the
city; or the west, with its impossible infinite riverbanks. The site is so
exceptional that wherever your room may be, and wherever you may come
from, you will always find incredible views of the old city with its houses,
large and small, atop vertiginous chasms with the Guadalevín River in
their depths.
From the café and dining room there are infinite panoramic views of
valleys and patches of green on protected rocks. These still display
remnants of Arab irrigation ditches and windmills, and walls with
remaining doors serve as testimony of ancient, still-current ways of life. A
few steps away are the eternal gardens of Blas Infante, and The Ring. It
has been given that name because The Ring can easily boast of being one
of the first bullrings in Spain. In any case, it is the pride of the city about
which the Rondeños will brook no debate. Even the most skeptical agree
that it was inaugurated in 1784. It is a point of pride that the immortal
Pedro Romero faced more than 5,500 beasts over the thirty charmed years
during which he exercised his courageous art, craft, and bravery, without
suffering even one scratch.
And as Ronda prides itself, not surprisingly, on its bullfighting
connection, every September “God and the whole world” are called to
attend the Goyaesque bullfights, with their lovely, exceptional, and
obligatory period attire. The mother of King Juan Carlos stayed at the
Parador when she attended, as any good devotee would, the Goyescas.
These festivities coincide with the town’s festival. The visitor should be
prepared to enjoy it with more revelry than repose.
Amongst pleasant wanderings, museums, and the inevitable stroll, the
traveler will find that this Parador offers more than a relaxed and
comfortable stay. Visitors will also enjoy lovely and bold architectural
styles and fashions, complemented by remarkable works of art: a 17thcentury wrought iron railing, almost a filigree; a bronze sculpture called
The Retiree or Angeles Does the Shopping, by the master Julio López
Hernández; a lovely and suggestive canvas by the controversial and
unquestionable Equipo Crónica group; and lovely paintings with
bullfighting themes.
The building’s decoration is an excellent combination of antique
furniture, modern tapestries, and pottery from the past and present, all
transmitting a certain sensation of pleasant comfort.
This is not to mention intimate elements such as the photographs taken
by Orson Welles on his visits to Ronda, where he was in fact buried at his
express wish. There are so many other things for the visitor to discover
during the stay.
The 19th-century España Square is dedicated to the Rondeño Antonio
de Los Rios Rosas, effective, honored, and honorable politician, minister
and president of Congress in 1862. He was also the uncle of Giner de los
Ríos, mentor of liberal concerns, and stimulus and wise inspiration for the
Free Teaching Institute, which, to put it plainly, is the root which
nourished the tree of our current democracy.
Through Vertiginous
Ravines and Shortcuts
1. Church of la Merced. 16th-17th century. Reliquary with the
supposedly incorrupt hand of Saint Teresa.
2. Avenue of the Gorge. Views of the rugged landscape from a 19thcentury walkway.
3. Bullring. Dating from 1785. Exceptional bullfighting museum.
4. House of the Giant. Nazarid palace from the 8th-15th centuries.
5. Gate of Almocábar. 13th century. It was the principal gateway of
access to the city.
6. New Bridge. An impressive feat from the reign of Felipe V, first third
of the 18th century.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Mondragón Place. Main civil monument in Ronda
House of the Moorish King. 18th-century building, with changed
and changing designs, almost embroidery-like, by the Duchess of
Parcent. This illustrious home welcomes the visitor at floor level. If one
wants to peer into the historical details, it is necessary to travel down
an almost eternal staircase of some two hundred steps.
Palace of Montezuma. With a neo-Gothic church.
Church of Santa María la Mayor. Ferdinand the Catholic
converted the mosque into a church. Goyaesque.
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Singular Cuisines: From
Mountains and Seas
hese tables have been blessed by history and rewarding bastard
symbioses which these crags have managed to preserve and
improve over a period of centuries. There are dishes in Moorish
and Jewish styles, grandparents of Christianized recipes. Culinary bills
charged to the Napoleonic invaders have been preserved, as have culinary
invasions which have arrived here with disputed origins. Admiration for
these recipes is not without fear: for years these mountains were a shelter
and refuge for bandits and smugglers of unquestionable ability.
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This cuisine is inevitably nourished by products from the
Mediterranean and the mountains of
Cádiz: Small Fried Fish, excellent
Shrimp, and glorious Coquina
Clams.
There are Gazpachos and
Cold Almond and Garlic
Soups with a local touch, together
with cold meats and soups and
stews for hardy palates. It must be
up to the diner to come up with a
description for the many roasts and
sweet desserts, which are also
prepared in their own peculiar way.
According to master chefs, who
have been sampling the tastes and
preferences of a variety of visitors,
the following are some of the bestliked dishes:
–Croquettes in the Local
Style. These are similar to, but
nothing like other croquettes. They are prepared in the “stewpot,”
following a recipe the chefs will not fully reveal.
–Fried Breadcrumbs Ronda Style. Similar to other fried
breadcrumbs, these are different because they also contain grapes, fried
egg, and bacon. Definitely worth a try.
–Cold Almond and Garlic Soup. The traditional blend with the
surprising addition of fried garlic and herring caviar.
–Tomato Zoque is cold cream soup with tuna roe, green tomatoes
and feta cheese.
For those who prefer a heavier meal there is always Shoulder of
Suckling Lamb, an excellent item to sample.
–Braised Bull Tail, native to or appropriated by this area, here
acquires special trimmings: it is enriched with local vegetables, red wine,
and aromatic herbs which are impossible to identify.
In addition, the Parador offers, among other things, these specialties:
-Partridge Pâté drizzled with the oil of one of the many mushrooms
which grow in the area. This homemade pâté consists solely of partridge
liver, sherry, and port.
–Partridge Ronda Style (always
available locally) is braised and
sprinkled with local wines.
For dessert, may we recommend
the local Egg-Yolk Candies;
Homemade Almond Cheese; and
the “Oil” Ice Cream, another
Parador specialty with a surprising
exquisite taste.
Do not lose heart yet. There are
many more gastronomic possibilities.
If you feel like experiencing new
taste sensations, try the Hot
Morcilla Blood Sausage;
Gazpachuelo, an Egg Soup
Based on Fish and Shrimp; Wild
Green Asparagus in Sauce; Pork
Chops with Pine Nuts;
Tagarninas, a dish made with wild
golden thistle; Ronda Squash
Filled with a mixture of bread,
sheep’s milk cheese, almonds, milk, and egg; or Goat’s Milk cheese
from Las Cuevas, not to be missed.
THE SECRET RECIPE
DEER LOIN ROASTED WITH
CHESTNUTS (AND CRIMINI MUSHROOMS)
–After removing all fibers and tendons from the deer loin, wash, dry
and season with salt and pepper. Marinate with a little oregano and olive
oil for a short time. Next, fry the loin on both sides until a sort of crust has
been created, without letting any juices escape. Serve in whichever style
you prefer.
Wandering
Through Magical Spots
onda offers a number of almost obligatory outings such as the
Pileta Caves. These are nearby and easily accessible. Discovered
in 1905 by a local farmer, the caves were later visited and studied by
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international experts who evaluated their artistic quality. In 1924 the site
was declared a national monument. Their primary attraction is a collection
of extraordinary prehistoric rock paintings, including horses, goats, and
buffalo. Experts place their origin at some 20,000 million years ago.
An important Roman city: Acinipo. Quite close to Ronda, the city
was part of Baeturia. The spectacular theater was built some 55 years
before the birth of Christ, and could hold around 2,000 spectators.
Acinipo also contains remnants of a Bronze Age settlement with the
foundations of circular dwellings, dating from between 700 and 1000 BC.
Nature lovers will enjoy the Sierra de las Nieves Nature
Reserve. The reserve offers rare species of trees with origins in the
Tertiary Era, from the well-known pines, ashes, maples, and gall oaks to
unusual and infrequent specimens such as the yew or Phoenician juniper.
These mountains are home to a wide variety of fauna: foxes, roe deer,
nutrias and birds such as the peregrine falcon, sparrowhawk and kestrel.
Please be warned that the route through Sierra de las Nieves is a rugged
one, sometimes rising to more than 1,500 meters. It is advisable to prepare
well for this excursion: the temperature can be quite changeable. Locals
say that it frequently falls below zero in
winter, and reaches up to 40 degrees in
summer.
Sierra de Grazalema Nature
Reserve, declared a Unesco Biosphere
Reserve in 1977.
The park will exceed all the expectations of nature lovers. Its
exceptional greenness is so exaggerated that it is valued even more as a
contrast to the rocky masses. There are Spanish pines, gorse, strawberry
trees, gall oaks, palmettos, and mastic trees. Medicinal plants such as
pennyroyal, lavender, and oregano perfume the walk and delight visitors.
The Grazalema Mountains are also rich in fauna. Visitors can find rare
species such as the nutria, genet, mongoose and fox. There are more
friendly animals such as roe deer and mountain goats. Flying above are
imperial eagles, peregrine falcons, and a multitude of vultures. The area is
home to one of the largest vulture colonies in all of Europe.
Leave Ronda by the C-339 towards Seville. After some 17 kilometers
there is a turn-off for Grazalema. From this point it is possible to follow a
number of routes through the nature reserve.
Setenil of the Wine Cellars. According to those in the know, the
Romans christened this town Lacippo. The name Setenil is of modern
origin, but has Latin roots. “Septem nihil” appears to mean seven times
nothing. The possible explanation is that it refers to the number of times
the Christians failed in their attempts to
conquer the town. As regards the wine
cellars, all agree: there was an
abundance of wine here centuries ago,
and the ancient caves of the cellars have
been transformed into houses set in the
stone.
If what you are looking for is a
typical Andalusian town, the visit will
be a pleasant experience. It is possible
to stroll along and enjoy the original
lay-out of the streets, and above all,
share the local customs of people proud
of their land.
The reserve is on the westernmost
slope of the mountains. It is immense,
more than 50 thousand hectares, a
surprisingly moist refuge within the
dryness of Spain. The heights are
imposing. It is said that the mass of San
Cristóbal was the first land which
sailors sighted on arriving from the
Americas, and the last to be seen when departing.
Parador de Ronda
Plaza de España, s/n. 29400 Ronda (Málaga)
Tel.: 95 287 75 00 - Fax: 95 287 81 88
Central de Reservas
Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España)
Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32
www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected]
wap.parador.es/wap/
Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar
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