PRIVATE SPECIFICATION Prepared for CAP, BASEBALL STYLE CBCU 006 Version 03.0/September 2016 1. Scope This specification covers the materials and make of baseball caps for personnel of SARS Customs. 2. Definitions and Abbreviations For the purpose of this specification the definitions given in SANS 10371 "Terms and definitions for clothing" and the following shall apply: acceptable: acceptable to SARS Customs crown: the domed section of the cap nominal: subject to the tolerances normal to good manufacturing practice SANS: South African National Standard 3. Style The style is as follows: crown with six panels dome shaped eyelets adjustable strap at the back heat-set permanently curved peak peak to be covered lined on the inside (lining to be laminated together with the outer material) two front panels shall have the emblem of SARS Customs embroidered on the outside senior officers: peak to be embroidered NOTE - The shape of the two front panels and of the peak shall be as agreed upon between SARS Customs and the successful bidder. Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 2 of 20 4. Illustrations Illustrations are not to scale and are for guidance only. Figure 1 – Front view Figure 2 – Top view Figure 3 – Back view Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 3 of 20 5. Client Furnished Materials No materials shall be supplied by SARS Customs. 6. Component Materials The following materials shall be supplied and used by the manufacturer. Trim charts shall also be submitted by the manufacturer (see Annex A). 6.1 6.2 Outer material comply with the requirements for type RPR 66 of SANS 1387– 11 “Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics - Part 11: Polyester-cellulosic raincoat fabric” colour to be an acceptable match, in terms of SANS 10076-1, “The assessment of defects in textile piece-goods and made-up articles Part 1: Defects in woven piece-goods (cellulosic and cellulosic blends)”, to colour No. 206c-2013 “SARS Charcoal” of CKS 129 “Colours for textiles” see Annex B for colour registration procedure (as relevant) Interlining an acceptable interlining suitable for use in items that can be washed capable of withstanding the same washing and drying procedures as specified for the outer material two different types to be used: front panels: an acceptable fusible woven interlining composition to be a polyester/nylon blend to comply with the requirements of CKS 627 “Fusible interlinings” base of crown: an acceptable non-woven interlining that are cut in strips of width 9 mm 6.3 the selection of interlining(s) of appropriate type and mass per unit area shall be determined by consultation with the manufacturers of the interlining(s) colour to be charcoal or black Tape an acceptable tape, bias-cut pre-shrunk and folded in each side of finished width 15 mm for the panel seams of finished width 8 mm for the back opening colour to be black Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 4 of 20 6.4 6.5 6.6 Headband an acceptable woven poly/cotton fabric bias-cut of finished width 30 mm interlined with foam (sponge) of nominal thickness 1 mm lined with an acceptable coated fabric coated fabric to minimize penetration of perspiration to the outside of the cap capable of withstanding the same washing and drying procedures as specified for the outer material colour to be black Peak support be of a high density polyethylene of nominal thickness 2,5 mm peak shall show no sign of cracking when folded sharply on itself be curved and be permanently heat-set curve shall comply with the requirements as given in 9.4 (to be as agreed upon between SARS Customs and the successful bidder) Button a 13 mm domed button interlocking back and covered with outer material button pin shall have 6.7 6.8 a flat base a serrated spike for the button attachment corrosion resistant (where relevant) Eyelets steel or brass eyelets with washers corrosion resistant nominal inside diameter of 4 mm colour to be black Touch and close fastener to comply with the requirements of SANS 1823 “Touch and close fastener” of nominal width 20 mm colour to be black Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 5 of 20 6.9 Embroidery thread acceptable 100% Viscose Rayon machine embroidery thread colours of the SARS Customs emblem to be acceptable matches to the colours given in in figure 4 see Annex B for colour registration procedure (as relevant) NOTE – Black colour filled sections indicate the application of the relevant colour. colour ref. 0608 (ACA Threads) or colour ref. 1008 (Marathon Thread) PLUS: ALL PEAK EMBROIDERY Black Figure 4 – CKS 129 Colours of embroidery 6.10 Lining lining to comply with the requirements for type L61P of SANS 1387-7 “Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics – Part 7: Jacket linings” colour to be an acceptable match to the colour of the outer material (or black) 6.11 Threads to comply with relevant requirements of SANS 1362 “Sewing threads” seams: polyester-and-cotton core-spun OR a staple polyester, ticket No. 80 top-stitching: spun polyester, ticket No.120 colour to be an acceptable match to the colour with which it is used Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 6 of 20 7. Workmanship The baseball caps shall be: cut and made with first-class workmanship throughout of uniform and acceptable make, colour and finish Shall be free from: defects, that affect their appearance or may affect their serviceability (or both) marks spots stains, incurred in the making-up Seams and stitches shall be: smooth and uniform free from twists, pleats and puckers sufficiently extensible to avoid seam cracking and undue shrinkage in use Ends of sewing shall be: trimmed and loose threads removed back-tacked if unsecured Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 7 of 20 8. Sizes and dimensions Table 1 – Size designations 1 Size designation 2 3 Nominal finished cap measurements, cm Cap circumference Cap circumference after before adjustment adjustment Medium 58 54 - 62 Large 60 56 - 64 B C A-A D D B C E Measuring point Description Measure on the inside, along the full circumference of the cap, with adjustable straps fully aligned and ends of straps are adjacent to the edges of the back opening. Measure on the inside, along the full circumference of the cap, with adjustable straps aligned and in the required adjusted position. A–A Cap circumference before adjustment A–A Cap circumference after adjustment B–B Panel length Measure from the apex, in the centre of the panel, to the panel-to-peak seam. C–C Peak width Measure in a straight line, from the outer edge of the peak-to-crown seam to the other outer edge of the peak-to-crown seam on the underside of the cap. D–D Panel width Measure at the base of each panel, from the one panel seam to the other. E–D Peak depth Measure from the midpoint of the peak-to-crown seam to the outer edge of the peak. Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 8 of 20 9. Make Illustrations are not to scale and are for guidance only, and unless inconsistent with the text, all measurements are nominal. 9.1 9.2 General outer material for the side and back panels shall be so bonded to the lining that the bonded material: is resistant to washing has a uniform finish is free from perforations, untreated areas and other imperfections (e.g. blisters and ripples) the adhesive used for bonding shall not contain any constituent that may have a toxic or irritating effect on the skin be such that it adheres to both materials and will not under any circumstances emit an unpleasant odour Crown design 9.2.1 General design two front panels lined with fusible interlining embroidered with the SARS CUSTOMS emblem two side panels of laminated outer material and lining two back panels of laminated outer material and lining with semi-circular opening and adjustment straps Eyelets Interlined front panels Binding Headband Figure 5 – Inside view Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 9 of 20 9.2.2 Apex to be finished with a covered button (outer material) 9.2.3 Base of the crown reinforced on the inside with interlining (see 6.2) fitted with a headband (on inside) sewn to the base of the crown, folded inwards edge-stitiched extending from the circular opening to the edge of the peak 2 mm above the base of the crown 9.2.4 Eyelets each side and back panel shall be fitted with an eyelet centrally positioned in each panel 75 mm from the button (centres) 9.2.5 Seams panels shall be covered with tape on the inside top-stitched 1 mm on each side of the bias-cut tape raw edge of the back opening be turned under covered with tape and stitched down 9.2.6 Embroidery the registered SARS CUSTOMS emblem shall be embroidered with embroidery thread centrally positioned on the two front panels positioned and dimensions as given in figure 6 50 mm 23 mm 55 mm Figure 6 – Embroidered emblem 9.2.7 Adjustment straps to consist of an upper strap one outer material strap with laid-on touch and close fastener (female section) Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 10 of 20 side and front edge of outer material strip to be folded in and attached to the touch and close fastener section by means of a 2 mm edge-stitching a lower strap a single length of touch and close fastener (male section) of width 20 mm attached to the base of the back panel opening, in line with the base of the crown side edges to be sandwiched and sewn in between the headband and the crown of the cap to extend along the full length of the back opening Eyelet Adjustable strap Figure 7 – Back 9.3 Crown dimensions 9.3.1 Dimensions on size medium 9.3.2 circumference of 58 cm when adjustable straps are fully aligned and ends of straps are adjacent to the edges of the back opening front panels of length 17 cm (measured to the apex, in the centre of the panel) each be of width 90 mm at the base, tapering to a point at the apex side panels of length 16 cm (measured to the apex, in the centre of the panel) each be of width 105 mm at the base, tapering to a point at the apex back panels of length 17 cm (measured to the apex, in the centre of the panel) forming a semi-circular opening of finished height 55 mm finished width 80 mm tapered to a point to join with the front and the side panels at the apex Dimensions on size large circumference of 60 cm when adjustable straps are fully aligned and ends of straps are adjacent to the edges of the back opening front panels of length 18 cm (measured to the apex, in the centre of the panel) each be of width 94 mm at the base, tapering to a point at the apex side panels Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 11 of 20 back panels of length 18 cm (measured to the apex, in the centre of the panel) forming a semi-circular opening of finished height 60 mm finished width 80 mm tapered to a point to join with the front and the side panels at the apex 9.4 Peak 9.4.1 General of length 17 cm (measured to the apex, in the centre of the panel) each be of width 110 mm at the base, tapering to a point at the apex peak support to be covered with outer material seam at underside of peak (off centre) securely attached to base of crown centred over the two front panels finished depth 75 mm (± 2 mm) measured centrally on the upper side of the peak finished width 165 mm on all sizes measured from the one point to the other in a straight line on the underside of the peak curved in such a way that it shall have a nominal measurement of 35 mm at the highest concave point at centre front 165 mm 23 mm 35 mm Figure 8 – Peak dimensions Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 12 of 20 Peak decoration: Junior officers Peak decoration: Senior officers peak to be embroidered with embroidery thread (centrally positioned on peak) dimensions and design shall conform to the sealed sample held by SARS Customs center bottom edge of the embroidered motif to be positioned 15 mm above the centre outer edge of peak design shall vary according to rank and shall be as follows: Port Commander design to be a central shield motif with a single leaf design and dimensions to comply with those as given in figures 9(a) and 9(b) Commissioner, Chief Officer, Group Executive, Executive and Senior Manager Commander 110 mm Figure 9(a) – Design of peak embroidery for rank: Port Commander Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 13 of 20 62 mm design to be a central shield motif with double leaves design and dimensions to comply with those as given in figures 10(a) and 10(b) 40 mm 9.4.3 edge of peak shall have three rows of stitching first row 15 mm from the edge followed by two rows at 5 mm intervals 43 mm 9.4.2 160 mm 23 mm 62 mm 47 mm 43 mm 40 mm Figure 9(b) – Dimensions of peak embroidery for rank: Port Commander 110 mm Figure 10(a) – Design of peak embroidery for ranks: Commissioner, Chief Officer, Group Executive, Executive and Senior Manager Commander 160 mm 115 mm 23 mm Figure 10(b) – Dimensions of peak embroidery for ranks: Commissioner, Chief Officer, Group Executive, Executive and Senior Manager Commander Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 14 of 20 10. Stitches, Seams and Stitchings 10.1 Stitches Stitch type: single needle lock stitch 10.2 Seams Panel seams: seam type SSag-3 Form seam Type SSa-1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, superimpose them on a strip (with edges turned in), and seam with one row of stitches through the body of each ply and the turned edge of the strip. Back opening: seam type LSct-2 Form seam Type SSa-1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then turn each back at the seam, turn in the edge of the strip, and seam to the ply with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. OR Back opening: seam type BSc-1, folded inwards and edge-stitched with a row of stitches Step 1 Step 2 Turn in both edges of a binding strip, fold it round the edge of a ply or plies of material, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches Attaching headband to base of crown: seam type LSb-1 Turn the edge of one ply of material, lap it on the edge of a second ply, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. Other seams: seam type SSa Superimpose two or more plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches positioned at the specified distance(s) from the aligned edges. Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 15 of 20 10.3 Number of stitches The determination of sewing stitches per unit length: use SANS 5278 ”Sewing stitches per unit length” The number of stitches in seams and top stitching shall be: 34 ± 4 per 10 cm 11.Care-labelling and marking of baseball caps 11.1 Label properties All labels shall: be white woven fabric labels that are printed comply with SANS 1309 " Printed labels for textiles” information to be in legible and indelible block letters of height at least 3 mm permanently secured be such that they outlast the caps (including the markings) 11.2 Care-labelling each baseball cap shall have a label that provides correct and appropriate care instructions (in accordance with SANS10011 “Care-labelling of textile piece-goods, textile articles and clothing”) each label to include the composition of the main fabric in accordance with the requirements of SANS 10235 “Fibre-content labelling of textiles and textile products” 11.3 Marking Each baseball cap shall have, sewn to the top edge of the headband on the inside, a label that provides the following information: the manufacturer's name the order or contract number the manufacturer’s trade mark (where applicable) the year of manufacture the country of origin, i.e. “Made in RSA” the VAT No of the contractor the size designation Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 16 of 20 12. Packaging and marking of packaging 12.1 Packing 12.1.1 The baseball caps shall be: NOTE: Supplier to remove all sobar labelling on the caps before delivery (where applicable). delivered in a commercially dry condition so packed that they will not be damaged in transit or in storage individually packed in a plastics envelope of suitable size and shape unless otherwise specified in the order or contract, packed in an acceptable bulk container the bulk containers that comply with the following: coffin type boxes with a base and lid double sided corrugated board boxes 12.1.2 Contents of bulk container: only baseball caps of the same size AND rank to be packed together each bulk container shall contain the same amount of baseball caps (per consignment) NOTE: Only the last bulk container of each consignment may be an exception to the rule with regards to QUANTITIES (where relevant). If this is the case, the supplier will mark this container with a clearly visible red sticker at each outer end of the lid for easy identification. 12.2 Marking 12.2.1 Small plastics envelopes Each envelope to be clearly marked with the following information: the item description the size designation 12.2.2 Bulk containers Each bulk container shall have a label securely attached to the outside. In addition to the address for delivery, each bulk container shall be labelled with additional information on the four sides of the lids (outer component). The information shall be written or printed in legible and indelible block letters and the label shall be of minimum A4-paper size, and shall contain the following: the manufacturer's name or trade mark or both the order number or contract number the item description (designation) the quantity of the item the size designation the rank the year of manufacture the invoice number(s) the total mass of the packed container the SABS Inspection Certificate Number Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 17 of 20 12.3 Additional marking When so required by SARS Customs, baseball caps, envelopes or containers (or any combination of these) to bear information additional to that specified above, e.g. the inclusion of bar coded item labels. 13. Normative References The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this specification. All documents are subject to revision and, since any reference to a document is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of that document, parties to agreements based on this specification are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the documents indicated below. Information on currently valid national, international and CKS documents may be obtained from the South African Bureau of Standards. CKS 129, Colours for textiles. CKS 627, Fusible interlining. SANS 1309, Printed labels for textiles. SANS 1362, Sewing threads. SANS 1387-7, Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics – Part 7: Jacket linings. SANS 1387-11, Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics – Part 11: Polyester-and-cellulosic raincoat fabric. SANS 1823, Touch and close fastener. SANS 5278, Sewing stitches per unit length. SANS 10011, Care-labelling of textiles and clothing. SANS 10235, Fibre-content labelling of textiles and textile products. SANS 10371,Terms and definitions for clothing. SANS 10011, Care-labelling of textile piece-goods, textile articles and clothing. SABS: Tel. +27 (0) 12 4287911 Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 18 of 20 ANNEX A (Normative) Special conditions of tender A-1 GENERAL A-1.1 Unless otherwise stated, the South African Bureau of Standards, shall be the inspecting authority. A-1.2 Three pre-production sample caps (of different sizes), shall have been inspected, tested and approved by the inspecting authority before bulk production is commenced. Each one of these samples shall be accompanied by a trim chart containing a sample of each component material (as given in 6) and the relevant certificates. It shall be the duty of the manufacturer to give adequate notice to the inspecting authority of the availability of these samples. A-1.3 The caps shall be subject to inspection during the course of manufacture. The inspector shall, during normal working hours, be given all reasonable facilities for carrying out his duties and shall have the right of entry into the contractor's factory and the factory or works of any subcontractor where work on caps supplied to this specification may be in progress A-1.4 The contractor shall inspect the finished caps for compliance with the specification before submitting them to the inspecting authority for final inspection. A-1.5 A-2 Before acceptance, the caps shall have been inspected and tested by the inspecting authority and found to comply with the requirements of the specification. DOCUMENTATION One container of each consignment shall be marked “DOCUMENTS” and in addition to the caps, shall contain the following: a) The packaging slip or delivery note; b) where applicable the inspection certificate(s); c) a copy of the invoice containing the following information: - the order number - the financial authority number - a full description of the consignment, i.e. quantity, etc Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 19 of 20 ANNEX B (Normative) CKS 129 Colours Due to the fact that colours can change over a period of time, any colour standard which has been registered for a period of SEVEN YEARS or more shall be considered obsolete. These standards shall then be allocated an archived status (as opposed to current status) and reregistration shall be required. NOTE: Before fabric and/or thread is sent to SABS for colour registration purposes, the successful bidder shall confirm with SABS whether a submission is required or not. A. The following scenarios require a submission of three metres of fabric and/or one reel of embroidery thread of each colour from the successful bidder: 1. A colour standard is archived. 2. First time registration is required (CKS 129 colour number does not exist). 3. Colour swatch stock at the SABS is no longer available. B. Requirements for the submission of fabric and thread as identified in A: 1. The colour shall be as agreed upon between SARS Customs and the successful bidder. 2. The fabric and embroidery thread shall be used to make new colour swatches which shall be the responsibility of the SABS. 3. The cost of the three metres of fabric and embroidery thread shall be incorporated in the relevant bid submission. HISTORY SHEET CHECKED VERSION DATE AMENDMENTS NAME 01.0 INIT. November 2007 01.1 December 2013 Complete revision. Align style, dimensions and make with baseball cap of SAPS. Kept outer material as previous version. 01.2 December 2013 Change outer material to same fabric as SAPS baseball cap 02.0 January 2014 Second release 02.1 February 2016 Add peak embroidery Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page CBCU 006 September 2016 SARS 03.0 Page 20 of 20
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