Student 1: Low Excellence
When working with textile materials to create wearable garments, it is imperative to acknowledge
the different characteristics of materials, and then select the techniques that will manage or take
advantage of these characteristics.
Describing and Comparing Key Characteristics in Materials
Strength - the durability and hardiness of a textile material. For example, canvas and denim are
much stronger fabrics than organza and cotton print.
Thickness - the density and heaviness of a textile material. For example, canvas and denim are
comparatively thick fabrics while organza and cotton print are comparatively thin fabrics.
Stretch - the ability of a textile material to extend and stretched a certain way, and also recover to
its original shape. For example, considerable stretch is found in stretch knits and fabrics cut on the
bias, while other fabrics, such as linen and heavy denim have relatively little stretch. This
characteristic is vital to test when selecting a fabric, as stretch material requires specific techniques
to sew it, and depending on the amount of stretch and its direction in the fabric, it can also
drastically change the shape of a garment.
Drape - the ease of a textile material to fall freely and not appear stiff and unmoveable. For
example, more drape is found in georgette and wool crepe than in denim and organza.
Techniques and why they are used
Selecting techniques to use is vital to make quality products and garments from textile materials.
Measuring/Marking (‘the maths’) - vital to achieve a well constructed garment
Two important techniques used in this category are adjusting for body size and marking out
hemlines.
Marking out hemlines is marking the exact location of the hem of your garment. This is done in the
final steps of making, when your client is wearing the garment; you mark out with pins exactly how
high you want the hem to be. It is vital to mark the hem correctly to be able to sew the edge of the
fabric exactly where you want it, and achieve a professional looking finish to your garment.
Adjusting for body size is fitting the cut out garment to your client. For example, when you have cut
out and started constructing your garment, it is necessary to adjust and fit it to your client by
pinning and shaping it to the body during construction. This technique is used because although
patterns give you a generic size to go by (for example, size 14) every individual’s body is slightly
different, therefore adjusting is necessary to achieve the ‘perfect fit’.
Sizing/Shaping - to create a well fitted garment to cater for the individual size of your client
Working out pattern size is the process of measuring the proportions of your client (bust, waist,
hips) in order to choose the best fitting size from the pattern graph that comes with the pattern.
This technique is used because when patterns come with particular sizes it is important that you
accurately measure the person in order to select the best size, to avoid wasting fabric and also
make it easier to adjust the garment to fit the shape of your clients body.
A dart is usually two straight stitch lines that bring together a
fold of fabric. The most common dart is probably the one
often seen at the bust-line of women’s blouses. This kind of
dart is used to help the fabric to fit to the woman’s curves, so
that the fabric is flattering and does not look wrinkled or
baggy. Photo of Dart (left) - This dart was stitched using
a stitch length of 3 and I reversed into the fold of the
dart point to secure the stitching, and pressed it on a
tailors hand
Joining/Assembling - the ‘putting together’ stage of making a garment to achieve a well
constructed finish
Seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped, abutted, or french seams) and position in the
finished garment (centre back seam, inseam, and side seam). Seams are used to ‘finish’ a
garment with a variety of techniques to prevent unravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the
inside of garments.
Adding zips to garments is the process of pinning and sewing a zip into a garment to create an
easy accessible tool for the wearer to use to get in and out of the garment. Zips are also used as a
professional way to finish a garment, especially invisible zips that both aid the shape of and final
appearance of the garment.
Finishing/Detailing - adding detail to the completed garment to enhance aesthetic appeal
Pressing is the process of taking your finished garment to an iron or industrial press and ironing out
all seam and details to a pressed and wrinkle free product. Pressing is used not only to achieve a
professionally finished garment, but it is also a technique that effectively stiffens and strengthens
seams to enhance durability.
Applying designs encompasses many different processes; these include applying graphic designs,
embroidery, and beading detail. These various processes are used to add specific detail to
garments to enhance aesthetic appeal, make garments look professional, and suit specific
situations.
How specific techniques are selected to manage the characteristics of specific textile
materials
Different characteristics of textile materials require different management processes during
construction; and management comes in the form of specific techniques. These techniques are
selected by analysing the characteristics of the textile material, and finding out what needs to be
managed and taken advantage of to create a well-made garment.
When joining pattern pieces together using a sewing machine it is important to use the right kind of
needle- ballpoint or stretch needles for stretch knits, denim needles for sewing thicker denim
fabrics, and microtex needles for sewing fine delicate fabrics. These needles have different points
and shapes so that the material is not damaged when sewn (see my annotated pictures of these
different needles.) In the case of denim needles, these are thicker which prevents the needle
breaking when it perforates the thick denim. Contrasting this microtex needles that are fine with a
sharp point are needed for fine fabrics to perforate the fabric without snagging.
It is also necessary to use the right kind of foot - when making jeans out of denim, a jeans foot is
used. This is because it is hinged at the back, and allows for the foot to ride over multiple
thicknesses of fabric found in intersecting jean seams without jamming the machine. In contrast,
we use walking feet to manage sheer fabrics or where several layers of different fabrics are sewn
at once (e.g. machine quilting). This is done because walking feet have a mechanism that grabs
the fabric on top. This, in conjunction with the feed-dogs on the machine, stops the organza or
(layers of material in quilting), slipping and producing puckered and wobbly seams.
When marking out there are also very different techniques used for laying and cutting out fabrics
with different characteristics. When using a thick canvas fabric, the layout should be ‘without nap;’
and laid out as a single layer. This is done because a single thickness is the easiest way to cut out
a thicker fabric. Also, when cutting out a fabric like this it is easier to use a rotary cutter, as it
ensures an accurate edge that is not always achieved when cutting through thick fabric with
standard sewing scissors. Contrasting this, when cutting out a drapey fabric like georgette, you
should cover the table you are working on with tissue paper before laying out the fabric as a double
thickness. This is done to control the drape of the fabric from sliding around and to ensure it is cut
accurately. Further, as drapey fabrics are thin, when marking out use fabric markers or tape. This
is because using a standard waxed chalk will easily stain the thin weave that creates the draping
effect. It is also a good idea to test all markers on scrap fabric first as some markers stain fabric
even though they claim to be washout.
When finishing, different pressing techniques are used depending on the characteristic of fabric.
When pressing a thick fabric like canvas the press needs to be at high steam linen setting to
ensure the fabric will be effectively smoothed out. Whereas when you are pressing a drapey silk
fabric like georgette, the iron should be on a silk setting and the area that is going to be pressed
should be spritz. This is to protect the fabric that could easily be damaged on a higher setting.
Another finishing technique is hemming. In stretch fabrics it is also important to address the stretch
characteristic when completing these techniques. One way is to measure up the hem using a seam
gauge and then to stitch this using a twin needle. The bobbin thread creates a stitch which is
stretchy when using a twin needle. Therefore, when you put on your garment, the hem stretches
and recovers in the same way as the fabric. You can also use a cover stitch on an over locker to
achieve the same effect. For really stretchy fabrics, to add further stretch to the hem you can use
woolly nylon in the bobbin thread and/or in the loopers of the over-locker.
When shaping a stretch knit onto a garment to make a sleeve, you can take advantage of the
stretch of the fabric and by easily stretching the sleeve head into the arm hole opening. Whereas
when using a woven fabric, you always have to gather the sleeve head to get it into the arm hole.
This is because there is no stretch and recovery in this fabric like there is in a stretch knit.
Describe combinations of techniques and textile materials that would be suitable in specific
situations and explain why they would be suitable for those situations
Not only do techniques have to manage the characteristics of textile materials, but combinations of
both need to be suitable for garments made for specific situations. For example, waterproof
breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex used to make rainwear need a combination of specific techniques.
This type of fabric requires very skilful handling. Since every seam that is sewn produces many
needle holes, each seam should be sealed with seam-sea land tape or seam-seal and glue. This is
because the garment will be worn in extreme weather conditions and although it is made to be
breathable, it still needs to stay waterproof. Therefore, sealing the seams protects the waterproof
coating on the wrong side of the fabric. Further, when hemming the
garment ribbing is not recommended. Instead, since the fabric is
rather stiff, use narrow plain hems, casing with elastic or shock cord
draw strings. This is a suitable way to hem this type of fabric
because ribbing tends to trap water, which needs to be avoided
when making a garment that needs to withstand rain. Photo of
waterproof garment (right) - Plain narrow hem with draw string
on water proof garment
Haute couture (French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking") refers to the creation of exclusive
custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually
made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by
the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed
techniques. Couture sewing techniques are evident in situations where dresses will be put on
display as historic garments, for example Kate Middleton’s wedding dress. The future Queen of
England’s wedding dress is expected to go on display in Kensington Palace or the Victoria and
Albert Museum. It might also appear at Buckingham Palace. Therefore the dress needed to be
impeccably made and able to withstand the test of time. As the dress was made out of delicately
hand-stitched lace the seamstresses involved were required to wash their hands every 30 minutes
to keep the lace clean, and changed needles every three hours to ensure their work was perfect.
Further, the lace motif on the dress encompasses two flower bouquet designs that were hand
stitched onto the lace, much like the work gone into making a mosaic. The demure neckline and
three metre train would have also taken pain staking detail to achieve a well made result. In terms
of construction, the seams in the silk were be made using a fine cotton or silk thread to create a
perfect seam line without any puckering. Further, although it was delicately made, it was also
stitched to maintain strength and ensure durability.
Compare the materials and techniques used in different situations/Discuss the suitability of
the materials and techniques used
At the beginning of this year my friends and I went to the Big Day Out in Auckland. We decided to
make matching tie dyed stretch knit t-shirts so we could spot each other in the crowd. Also
because it was a one off event we were not worried about the overall quality of construction of the
garment. When constructing a garment from a stretch material for this type of situation it is possible
not to overlock edges inside the garment. This fabric does not unravel and the seam was adequate
to last the length of the day. We also used over locking to join the seams. Although this method
saved time, it was important that the tension was accurate in the over locking stitch to ensure that
the stitch held the fabric together firmly. We hemmed the sleeves, however decided not to hem the
bottom of the t-shirts or the neckline. This was to save time
and also used for effect; as we wanted a raw edge off the
shoulder look. We then tie dyed the individual t-shirts bright
blue as a finishing technique. We achieved this effectively
using cheap domestic dyes and it only took a few hours to
process. We also weren’t worried about fastness as we did not
plan to wash and wear the t-shirts on multiple occasions.
Overall the t-shirts were a great success as they were quick
and easy to make and were durable for the length of the Big
Day Out. Photo of Big Day Out T-shirts (right)
Contrasting this, I work at a winery over summer four days a
week. We are allowed to wear our own clothing, as long as we
wear a white t-shirt. I decided to make two stretch knit t-shirts,
and they needed to be durable and able to withstand regular
washing and wearing, and also needed to be good quality so that I looked professional. For this I
decided to sew the seams and then over lock them. This was to ensure that the t-shirt would not
unravel and last through regular washing. I also used iron on interfacing to stabilize the shoulder
area on the t-shirts. Stabilizer is commonly used so that the shoulder seam will not over stretch
due to regular wear. Compared to the unfinished necklines of our Big Day Out T-shirts, the
necklines of these work t-shirts have a self fabric binding to finish the neckline. This was done so
that the neckline maintained its shape and also fitted closely to my body. Although these
techniques took more time, they were necessary to achieve a quality t-shirt that is both presentable
and durable; and therefore suited the situation it was required for.
In conclusion, analysing the characteristics that make up textile materials is vital to select
appropriate techniques to manage and take advantage of fabrics during construction. Further, it is
important to understand that managing the characteristics of fabrics using various techniques
changes in relation to the situation that the garment is made for.
Bibliography:
Internet Sites:
http://www.wisegeek.com/in-sewing-what-is-a-dart.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seam_(sewing)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haute_couture
http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/a/sleeve.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKQKCGLue5s- the making of Kate Middleton’s dress
Books:
Sandra Betzina, “More Fabric Savy” Published: The Taunton Press 2004
“Threads Sewing Guide” Ed. Carol Fresia Published: The Taunton Press 2011