Lune Valley Ramble - Forest of Bowland AONB

95p
A walk up the Lune Valley between
Lancaster and Kirkby Lonsdale
Contents
Kirkby Lonsdale
Page 3
Page 6
Page 8
Page 10
Page 12
Page 14
Devil's Bridge
Whittington
e
Leck Beck
rL
un
Newton
Ri
ve
Lancaster,
start of the Lune Valley Ramble
Lancaster to Crook O’Lune
Crook O’Lune to Loyn Bridge
Loyn Bridge to Newton
Newton to Kirkby Lonsdale
Further information
River Greta
Arkholme
4
25
B6
Melling
B6254 to
Carnforth
River
A6 to
Carnforth
M6
g
Wennin
Hornby
Aughton
83
A6
e
River Lun
Caton
Crook O'Lune
Lancaster
A6
M6
Map not to scale.
Access to the Walk
The Lune Valley Ramble starts at Green Ayre,
beside the river at Skerton Bridge in Lancaster.
See page 5.
Cover photo ‘Lune Valley from the Air’ and ‘Lancaster Castle’ above right © Jon Sparks
Page 2
A walk up the Lune Valley between
Lancaster and Kirkby Lonsdale
Lancaster Castle and the south Lakeland Hills
Introduction
The Lune Valley Ramble is 16 1/2 miles (26.5 km) long and traces the course of the River Lune’s
lower reaches through some of the North West’s finest lowland countryside. Bounded by high
moors, limestone hills and shadowed by the distant peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and Leck
Fell, the route offers excellent, easy walking and is signposted and waymarked throughout.
The Ramble links the City of Lancaster with the
market town of Kirkby Lonsdale, two historic but
very different centres. It makes the most of the
valley’s intimate and tranquil pastoral setting,
passing through woodland, meadows and along
the riverside itself. Along or near to the route are
picturesque villages and hamlets, castles and
ancient churches, nature reserves and wildlife in
abundance.
The River Lune is the inspiration for the Ramble.
The river rises from a source in the Howgill Fells
and meets the sea in Morecambe Bay, just
south of Lancaster. Fed by its many tributaries
which drain the north-west of the Yorkshire
Dales and the northern Forest of Bowland, it is
one of the most important salmon rivers in the
country.
Lancaster, start of the
Lune Valley Ramble
Although the Romans established a fort on
Castle Hill around 80AD, it was those later
conquerors, the Normans, who caused
Lancaster’s rise to prominence. The Castle and
Priory Church, which still dominate the skyline,
were both founded before 1100. The Castle was
radically strengthened and enlarged by King
John in the early 13th century as a regional
centre of government and a military hub against
the marauding Scots, who at least twice burned
the town.
It became the centre of the County Palatine of
Lancashire, virtually a self-governing part of
England whose most famous “ruler” was the
Page 3
Lune Valley Ramble
Lancaster, start of the Lune Valley Ramble - continued…
redoubtable John of Gaunt. During the Civil War
it was first a Royalist, then a Parliamentary
stronghold; in 1651 Charles II was pronounced
King in Market Square, a full nine years before
ascending to the throne!
The award winning Maritime Museum in the Old
Custom House well repays an extended visit. The
exuberant, green-domed Ashton Memorial
dominates the skyline to the east of the City. It
was built in 1907 as a memorial to the wife of
James Williamson, the first Baron Ashton, whose
oilcloth and linoleum mills once employed as
many as a quarter of Lancaster’s workforce.
Other striking buildings include the City Museum
(Old Town Hall), Judges’ Lodgings and the Grand
Theatre.
For further information about Lancaster, visit the
Tourist Information Centre on Castle Hill or the
Lancaster City web site on
www.lancaster.gov.uk
John O’Gaunt’s Gate, Lancaster Castle
The infamous Pendle Witches were imprisoned,
tried and hanged here in 1612. During the 1745
Rebellion the “Young Pretender” Charles Edward
Stuart passed through Lancaster on his ill-fated
march south to Derby.
Used as a small port since Roman times, the
rise of trans-Atlantic trade in the 18th century
saw Lancaster gain prominence as one of the
north-west’s premier ports. Cotton, sugar, rum
and coffee were the main cargoes handled.
A more unusual import was hardwood for the
local furniture manufacturer Richard Gillow, who
dominated the manufacture of fine English
furniture for more than 200 years. The wealth
from such trade (and the profitable slave trade
which enriched many local shipowners)
generated an explosion of building during
Georgian times when many of the City’s sublime
merchants houses, terraces and the fine
warehouses along St. George’s Quay were
erected.
Page 4
Lancaster to Kirkby Lonsdale
Access to the Lune Valley Ramble from Lancaster City Centre
A683 to M6
Skerton
Weir
Riverside
Park
Skerton
Bridge
Pa
A6 from
Carnforth
eet
Str
nt
me
rlia
Green
Ayre
Start of Lune
Valley Ramble
Lancaster evening skyline
From Lancaster Railway Station turn right along
Station Road, right again up West Road then left
at the hill crest into the Castle grounds. Take the
path to the left of the Priory Church (signed for
Maritime Museum) and descend the steep path.
Turn right at the foot of the steps, joining the old
railway cyclepath to reach Green Ayre.
From the Bus Station cross into Water Street to
A683 to
Morecambe
Sainsbury's
Wa
t
Str er
eet
River Lune
Bus
Station
St. George's Quay
Central
Shopping
Area
Maritime
Museum
Ki n
Roman
Bath Houses
Lancaster
City Museum
St
Link path
from
Rail Station
g
join the cyclepath behind Sainsbury’s and turn
right (upstream) to reach Green Ayre via the
underpass. The old crane (formerly located at
Hornby Station goods yard) marks the start of
The Lune Valley Ramble.
Greyhound
Bridge
re
et
Priory
Church
ti o
n
Ho
tin
ta
R
oa
d
M
ee
S
g
Roa
From A6
and
University
u se
Railway
Station
d
st
We
Lan
e
Castle
Map not to scale.
Green Ayre, the start of the Lune Valley Ramble
Page 5
Lancaster to Crook O’Lune
The Ramble traces the course of the old
Lancaster to Wennington railway, closed under
the Beeching axe in the 1960s and now a
landscaped cyclepath as far as Bull Beck, Caton.
There are more than 15 miles of such
transformed railway line in the Lancaster area.
A riverside park is being developed between
Lancaster and Caton with grants from the
Millennium Fund. Watch out for the new
environmental sculptures along the route.
Lune Valley mists and distant Ingleborough
Passing beneath the M6 viaduct the Ramble
reaches the old Halton station above Halton
Bridge and lower weir.
Swans on the River Lune
Above Skerton Weir the Lune Aqueduct strides
across the river. Built in 1797 by John Rennie
and Alexander Stevens it is constructed of stone
and is 664 feet long with five semi-circular
arches, each with a 20 foot span. It carries the
Lancaster Canal at a height of 50 feet above
the river.
To cut short your walk here, cross the bridge to
Halton village which has shops, pubs and a good
bus service back to Lancaster. You could also
complete a circular walk to Lancaster by turning
left along Halton’s main street, pass beneath the
M6 and join a riverside path back to the
Aqueduct, Skerton Weir and Skerton Bridge.
The canal was constructed between 1792 and
1819 to link Kendal, Lancaster and Preston with
the coalfields of South Lancashire. Today the 41
mile stretch from Preston north to Tewitfield on
the Lancashire/Cumbria border is the longest
lock-free stretch of canal in the country. The
canal is now used for a wide variety of leisure
pursuits including boating, canoeing, angling
and walking.
White Lion Inn, Halton
Page 6
Lune Valley Ramble
The Ramble itself follows the old railway
across a high bridge to reach Crook
O’Lune. This idyllic wooded setting,
created by an incised meander of the
river in the shape of a shepherd’s crook
handle, was a subject for the renowned
landscape artist J M W Turner.
There are car parking, toilet and picnic
facilities here and a mobile snack bar
opens daily in summer (weekends only
in winter). A ramp has also been built to
ease access down to the railway bridges
and to the riverside. It is worth going up
to the picnic site by the car park for the
sweeping views right up the Lune Valley
to Ingleborough, in the Yorkshire Dales.
Nearby, a new concessionary footpath
leads to Gray’s Seat, named after the
poet Thomas Gray and from which point
Turner painted.
Caton village, half a mile further along
the old railway, has a wide range of
shops, refreshments and buses back to
Lancaster. The Lune Valley Ramble,
however, leaves the old railway here.
A683 to Hornby
Link to Caton
via old railway
Caton
Mill
Crook O' Lune
Picnic Area
Concessionary
footpath
to Gray's Seat
M6 to Kendal
Halton
Motte & Bailey
castle
Halton Old
Station
Jct. 34
M6 to Preston
Halton Circular
Walk
La
nc
Aqueduct
as
R iv
ter
Ca
na
l
er
Lu
ne
Green Ayre
Skerton
Start of Lune
Valley Ramble
Lancaster
City Centre
Map not to scale.
“Crook O’Lune near Lancaster” by J M W Turner 1775 - 1851
Page 7
Crook O’Lune to Loyn Bridge
Join the river bank and walk upstream, the Lune
to your right. Low Mill at Caton stands
prominently on the flood plain. It was powered
by water, the plentiful supply of which made
Caton a village of mills in the 18th and 19th
centuries.
Between the Crook and Loyn Bridge the Ramble
is within the Forest of Bowland Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty (see page15). A
particular landscape feature of the Lune Valley is
the “hanging woodlands” which cling to the
steep northern side of the valley. Many of these
woodlands are “ancient woodlands” as they
grow on land which is unlikely to have ever
been cleared of trees. Some trees may be as
much as a thousand years old. The ancient
nature of the woods is shown by the wide
variety of wildflower species that they support.
The show of bluebells and wild garlic in spring
is particularly dramatic.
Just beyond the Waterworks Bridge (the
Thirlmere Aqueduct, piping water from the Lake
District to Manchester) are Lawson’s Wood and
Burton Wood, the largest of these hanging
woodlands, managed by the Lancashire Wildlife
Trust. These host small-leaved limes, a relic of
the woodlands that several thousand years ago
were widespread in Britain, when the climate
was warmer.
times - the river once flowed directly below the
foot of the woods. This is dramatic evidence of
the dynamic nature of the Lune. The forces of
erosion and deposition are forever at work,
shaping the nature of the river channel.
The Lune Valley is a farmed landscape, its
beauty and appearance shaped over the
centuries by man. Most of the valley’s
settlements are sited above the flood plain.
Aughton (pronounced Afton) is typical. A hamlet
of a few cottages and farms, it clings to the
steep north valley side of the Lune. The Ramble
meets the bottom end of an old lane at Aughton
Barns, from where fords once crossed the river
to Claughton. We, however, remain on the
northern bank, passing below Great Close Wood
and above the shoals and gravelly islands in
mid-river. Across the river the turbines of Caton
Moor Wind Farm feather the ridgetop. Below
these the course of two aerial ropeways can be
discerned which transport clay drawn from
quarries on Claughton Moor down to Claughton
Brickworks. The Ramble leaves the waterside to
pass behind a bungalow. Beyond it turn right,
cross the cattle grid and wind with the driveway
to the heavy, low-set gate on the right between
stone gateposts. Go through this, fall to the slope
foot and bear slightly right to a stile in the
distant fence, some way to the right of the
platform.
Man’s use of woodlands for timber, fuel and
fodder has changed their species composition
dramatically over the ages. Today the sessile
oak is the main tree species, but the
outstanding feature is the ash-wych elm
woodland on the lower slopes in which the lime
trees are to be found. Sadly, Dutch Elm Disease
is continuing to take its toll on the woods in this
area.
The Ramble hugs the river bank around a great
meander. This was created in relatively recent
Page 8
Bluebells, Lawson’s Wood
Lune Valley Ramble
A683 to
Kirkby Lonsdale
Castle Stede
Motte & Bailey
Loyn Bridge
Castle
Hornby
The Snab
Lagoon
Great
Close
Wood
Aughton
Aerial
Ropeway
Claughton
Burton
Wood
Lawson's
Wood
Applehouse
Wood
Waterworks
Bridge
A68
3
To cut short your walk here, cross the bridge
and rise to a junction, here bearing right to
Hornby (about half a mile from the bridge). The
village has shops, pubs, accommodation and a
regular bus service to Lancaster.
ni
Riv
Here rejoin the riverside path. This area is one of
the prime birdwatching locations in the northwest of England, renowned for its over-wintering
geese, shellduck and waders, great flocks of
oystercatcher and redshank. The river Wenning
joins from the opposite bank, one of the Lune’s
major tributaries. Looming over this is, in the
middle distance, the Eagle Tower of medieval
Hornby Castle, which is still lived in as a private
house today. Crossing a footbridge in trees, the
Ramble reaches Loyn Bridge.
en
e r Lu n e
Ri
ve r
W
ng
Gressingham
Artle Beck
Caton
Crook O'Lune
Low Mill
Map not to scale.
Gressingham, above Loyn Bridge
A683 to Lancaster
Page 9
Loyn Bridge to Newton
The present Loyn Bridge dates from 1684. It is
constructed of square sandstone blocks, making
three arches separated by triangular cutwaters.
The bridge is of historical importance and is
designated as an ancient monument. The single
carriageway affords the only road crossing of
the Lune between the Crook and Kirkby
Lonsdale. Overlooking the eastern end of the
bridge is the impressive Norman earthwork of
Castle Stede motte & bailey castle, fronted by a
Second War pillbox! Half a mile west of the
bridge is the hamlet of Gressingham; with
church, Hall and cottages huddled around the
fern-bedecked falls of Gressingham Beck.
Loyn Bridge near Hornby
The Ramble remains on the west bank of the
river, here sharing the route of the Lunesdale
Walk, a 37 mile walk which incorporates the
high moors of Bowland and the limestone hills
to the west of the Lune. A companion booklet to
this one, and detailing the route of the
Lunesdale Walk, is available. Our route rises
along narrow paths through Thrush Gill Wood
before re-joining the riverside pastures - in
some stretches the river itself is invisible
beyond flat watermeadows. Across the river to
the north-east is the distinct peak of
Ingleborough.
About two miles upstream of Loyn Bridge the
foot of a lane leading to Arkholme is reached.
Known as “Erghum” when Norse settlers were
here, and recorded as “Ergune” in the
Page 10
Main Street, Arkholme
Domesday survey, the village is a veneer of
idyllic 17th and 18th century cottages beside a
lane dropping from the old Carnforth to Kirkby
Lonsdale turnpike down to the Lune. There used
to be a ferry here across the river. Melling is
visible on a low ridge, and the Wenning gap
through the line of the western Pennines and so
into Yorkshire. At low water the remains of the
ferry steps may be seen. This was such an
important link that in Norman times a motte and
bailey castle guarded it. The structure is still
clearly defined, with the motte being particularly
well preserved. Later the tiny St. John’s Chapel
was built within the bailey. The bell has an
inscription from the 14th century.
St. John’s Chapel, Arkholme
Lune Valley Ramble
r
ve
ne
Lu
Carefully follow the waymark arrows here,
to the right of the farm complex, soon
passing by Higher Broomfield Farm to
return to the floodplain. On the other bank
the river Greta ends its winding course
from high in the Yorkshire Dales. It has its
source on Whernside, one of the “Three
Peaks” of Yorkshire and has flowed to the
Arkholme
Lune via the famous “Waterfalls” walk at
Ingleton.
Ri
Arkholme village centre is half a mile
To B6254 Kirkby
up the lane. Here are a pub, post
Lonsdale
Tobilane Toy
office stores, organic farm shop
Workshop
Hall
and buses to Lancaster, Carnforth
Newton
and Kirkby Lonsdale. The Ramble,
however, leaves this lane just 200 yards or
so up from the river, passing behind the
church and along an old driveway to
Newton
eventually pass beneath the railway
diversion
viaduct to reach Lower Broomfield Farm.
r
Riv e
eta
Gr
Hr.
Broomfield Farm
Lwr.
Motte &
Bailey Castle
The
Herb Stall
Past here an abandoned loop of the river is
traced to the foot of a rough lane. The
hamlet of Newton lies up this. Here is
located Tobilane Designs Toy
Workshop where you can see new
B6254 to
Thrush
Carnforth
Gill
toys being made or antique rocking
Wood
horses being repaired. It’s well worth
a visit (telephone 015242 72662).
Gressingham
To A683 Kirkby
Lonsdale
Loyn Bridge
Castle Stede
Motte & Bailey
Castle
ive
rW
g
Hornby
en n
in
R
Map not to scale.
The Lune sweeps beneath Loyn Bridge
Page 11
Newton to Kirkby Lonsdale
To continue the Ramble, do not follow the rough
lane to Newton but instead turn right to return to
the riverbank. Here it passes along a short
stretch of concessionary footpath kindly made
available for use by the Newton Hall Estate.
Whittington Church
Summer’s tranquillity near Arkholme
The second of two rough lanes on your left,
Burrow Mill Lane, is a possible cut-off to
Whittington village, just over half a mile away.
The village boasts the Dragons Head Inn, which
doubles as the post office, sublime cottages
and a fine church. The village was recorded as
“Witetune” in the Domesday Book. Centuries
later, in 1783, it was the birthplace of William
Sturgeon, the inventor of the electro-magnet. It
is also on a bus route for Kirkby, Carnforth and
Lancaster. Burrow Mill itself was on the
opposite bank where the Leck Beck meets the
Lune, reached by an old ford from Whittington.
Beyond the river, the gathering heights culminate
in the lonely Leck Fell, highest point in today’s
Lancashire at 2,057 feet (627m). The medieval
Devil’s Bridge at Kirkby Lonsdale marks the end
of the Lune Valley Ramble. The bridge dates
from the 14th century and takes its name from a
famous legend. The devil built the bridge in
order to claim the soul of the first person to
cross it, but was thwarted by an old woman who
threw a bun so that her dog crossed ahead of
her. The devil is said to have burst into flames
and vanished!
Well-used footpaths lead from Devil’s Bridge to
the heart of this charming little town. Standing
The Ramble hugs the riverbank between
Burrow Mill Lane and Kirkby Lonsdale, only
leaving it for very short distances. There is little
woodland along this length and the character is
of wide open spaces with expansive views.
Devil’s Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale
Page 12
Lune Valley Ramble
A683 to
Sedburgh
B6254 to Kendal
Kirkby
Lonsdale
A65 to
Devil's
Bridge
l
Kenda
A65
to S
ettl
e
Waterworks
Aqueduct
(no right of way)
Leck Beck and Leck Fell, Burrow Mill
just over the county boundary in Cumbria, the
market town is wonderfully situated on a high
bank overlooking the River Lune. The glorious
views from the churchyard and from “Ruskin’s
View”, up the valley to the Howgills and
Casterton Fells, have drawn many artists,
including J M W Turner, and were described as
“one of the loveliest scenes in England” by
John Ruskin himself. The town grew up on an
old packhorse route and during the 18th
century an annual hiring fair was held there.
There is now a weekly market every Thursday
in the Market Square. The attractive narrow
streets radiating from the Square are lined with
shops, cafes and public houses.
Over
Burrow
Whittington
Whi
t
dive tington
rsio
Bur
n
row
Hall
Mill
Tobilane Toy
Workshop
k
ec
kB
ec
L
Nether
Burrow
Lan
e
A683 to
Lancaster
Newton
Map not to scale.
“Kirkby Lonsdale Churchyard in the Vale of Lune”
J M W Turner
The end of the ramble, Devil’s Bridge
Page 13
Further Information
Walking the route
Equipment and Safety
The Lune Valley Ramble is 16.5 miles (26.5km)
long. The route is well waymarked by frequent
fingerposts and discs. The relevant Ordnance
Survey Maps are Outdoor Leisure sheet 41
(Forest of Bowland & Ribblesdale) and
Pathfinder sheets 628 & 637, available from
local bookshops and Tourist Information Centres.
Although the most difficult path surfaces have
been improved, many of the paths are along the
riverbank and the ground can be rough and
slippery in places. It is important to wear the
right footwear (boots or stout shoes) and clothing
and carry some refreshment. The Ramble cannot
be completed when the river is in flood as
sections will be impassable and dangerous. If
walking alone make sure someone is aware of
your planned route.
Seasoned walkers can complete the Ramble in
a day. The Ramble also lends itself to shorter
walks. Suggested cut-offs are detailed in the
text, each leading to a regular bus route back to
Lancaster. The text is presented as a walk
upstream from Lancaster. It is as easy to walk
downstream from Kirkby Lonsdale; again, the
route in this direction is well marked.
The Ramble can be combined with other well
waymarked trails in the Lune Valley area to form
multi-day walks. These include the Limestone
Link from Kirkby Lonsdale, the Lunesdale Walk
from Loyn Bridge (Hornby) and the Lancaster to
Kendal Canal Walk.
Transport
There are regular bus services between
Lancaster, Carnforth, Kirkby Lonsdale and
Ingleton serving routes on both sides of the
Lune. For details telephone (01524) 841656.
There is ample car parking in Lancaster, at the
Crook O’Lune, in Hornby village and in Kirkby
Lonsdale. Parking is also possible in the villages
mentioned in the text (except Aughton).
Please note:
The route of the Lune Valley Ramble is subject
to constant upgrading and improvement. At
times the route may vary from the information
supplied in this booklet and occasionally stiles
and gates etc. may be altered or changed as
part of this ongoing maintenance programme.
Page 14
Tourist information
Staff at Tourist Information Centres (TIC) will be
pleased to help with further information on
public transport, places to stay, other walking
trails and local attractions. TICs are at
Lancaster, 29 Castle Hill (01524) 32878
Morecambe, Station Buildings, Central
Promenade (01524) 582808
Kirkby Lonsdale, 24 Main Street (015242) 71437.
Acknowledgement
The Lune Valley Ramble has only been made
possible through the co-operation of landowners
and farmers along the route whose assistance is
much appreciated. In particular, the generosity of
Mrs Kimber of the Newton Hall Estate in granting
a concessionary footpath through part of her
land is acknowledged.
Maintenance, new stiles and waymarking are
carried out by Lancashire County Council’s
Countryside Service (Tel: (01772) 263919 to
report problems).
Further copies
This leaflet is obtainable from
Lancaster Tourist Information Centre,
29 Castle Hill, Lancaster LA1 1YN.
Tel: 01524 32878
Lune Valley Ramble
The Forest of Bowland AONB
Equal in status to a National Park, the Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) was
designated in 1964 to facilitate the co-ordinated
protection of the fragile landscapes of heather
moorland, secluded wooded valleys, unpolluted
watercourses and grassy fells which
characterise the area.
The AONB is managed to ensure that a balance
between environment, ecology, economic and
social well-being is maintained for the benefit of
both current and future generations.
Management is through a partnership of local
authorities, government agencies, the local
landowning and farming community and other
interest groups.
A Countryside Service employs rangers and
project officers who work in the area to help
manage the landscape, bring about
improvements to public access and to liaise
with visitors and residents. For details contact or
visit the Bowland Visitor Centre at Beacon Fell
Country Park (Tel. 01995 640557).
River Lune at Thrushgill Wood
Please follow The Country Code
•
Enjoy the countryside and respect its life and
work.
•
Guard against all risk of fire.
•
Fasten all gates.
•
Keep your dog(s) under close control.
•
Keep to public paths across farmland.
•
Use gates and stiles to cross fences, hedges
and walls.
•
Leave livestock, crops and machinery alone.
•
Take your litter home.
•
Help to keep all water clean.
Back cover photo:
‘Evening lights the River north of Arkholme’ Neil Coates.
•
Protect wildlife plants and trees.
•
Take special care on country roads.
Photography:
Neil Coates, Jon Sparks, Robert Swain and Kate Young.
•
Make no unnecessary noise.
Page 15
This publication was produced by Simon Holt Marketing Services (www.SimonHoltMarketing.com)
for the Lune Valley Initiative. The Lune Valley Initiative is part financed by the European Community European Regional Development
Fund with support from the North West Development Agency, Lancaster City Council and Lancashire County Council.
LANCASTER
CITY COUNCIL
February 2000