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The origin of the Teba jacket is surrounded
by mists of anecdotes, faded memories and
by stories spread by word of mouth always
having that blurred point inevitably accompanying the emergence of iconic fashion
pieces such as the gabardine, duffel coat or
tie. There will always be many explanations
and theories adding a charming and personal touch to its history. A general consensus
among fashion historians, manufacturers
and fans seems to be based on the fact that
the garment was born in the world of hunting, intimately related to the traditional
leisure activity of the Spanish nobility. The
available information indicate that it was
the Count of Teba, Carlos Mitjans Fitz-James Stuart (the cousin of the recently deceased Duchess of Alba), who is responsible
for this garment becoming Spanish classic
menswear. The title of Count of Teba was
famous due to its use by the Empress Eugenia whilst single. The closest friends called
the Count of Teba affectionately “Bunting”,
Teba JACKET:
and the way he handled the shotgun was legendary, especially when hunting quail; he
even declared himself as a world champion
in pigeon shooting. Elegant and educated, he
was chosen to host Jacqueline Kennedy during her visit in Seville in 1966. His life was
linked to the countryside and nature, which he was an expert about. There are many
theories about the origin of the jacket that
bears his name: Some say it was a gift from
the King Alfonso XIII, others that it was the
other way around, there are even those who
think it is a jacket that was manufactured in
London Savile Row and was adapted by a
Spanish tailor to the needs of the Count... In
recent times the theory supporting the idea
that the jacket was a gift of the monarch is
gaining strength, consequently it is thought
that the Earl commissioned then a Zarautz
dressmaker Mary Sorreluz Múgica to adjust
it to his requirements... Unfortunately, no
one can certify the accuracy of this information and data. In any case, what seems
certain is that it was the Count of Teba who
spread its use among the Spanish upper class
taking part in the hunting events at that
The entrepreneur
Mark Cho,
founder of “The
Armory”, has
chosen the
century-old, 100%
Spanish company
Justo Gimeno as
the best of all the
craftsmen who
still manufacture
the Teba jacket.
time. The rest of its history remains an attractive secret that gives to this garment an
aura of romanticism that has survived over
time. Its success, in addition to its elegant
Neapolitan form and a British–like-style, is
due to its comfort; both its elastic fabric and
varied design are adjusted to what would be
a formal but comfortable hunting garment.
An Icon of style
By A NDR ÉS PUCH • Photo by dav id gaya
The Teba jacket, like the Spanish coat or the
Manila shawl, is one of those garments that
are considered typical Spanish icons. The
story of the Teba jacket is certainly a unique one as not only it is worn in a daily life,
but also it enjoys an increasing widespread
acceptance, especially since Mark Cho, the
famous founder of the new clothing concept
“artisanal clothiers” characteristic for “The
Armoury” shops in Hong Kong and New
York City, has promoted it outside Europe. The Teba Jacket is a fashion trend that
extends from the London Saville Row to the
best tailor’s in Naples and Paris.
Mark Cho, owner of The Armoury.
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Justo Gimeno and his son Gabriel.
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king and emphasizing the best handicrafts
in the world of classic male fashion. His
proposal is causing havoc in Hong Kong
and New York. In this sense, the Teba jacket has been one of his latest discoveries
for its casual, relaxed and sporty style. The
commitment to this Spanish garment has
generated growing interest both among
professionals and clients from different
countries, as Cho’s stores are visited by
customers from all over the world. The
Armoury has selected Justo Gimeno, a
century-old company, 100% Spanish, as
the best among all manufacturers who are
still producing this garment, especially for
the high quality of the fabrics used and
for the craftsmanship dedicated to all its
creations.
The Teba jacket is reliving its youth and it has
been included by the tailors of Saville Row,
London, in their collections for a few years.
JUSTO GIMENO 1907
REDISCOVERING
The Teba jacket is reliving its youth, not
only because a new generation of Spaniards
who wear it in everyday life (both professionally and in their spare time), but also
because tailors of London Savile Row have
included the Teba Jacket in their collections since a few years ago. Recently, several
craftsmen, the most prominent Neapolitan
tailors, have discovered that the Teba jacket
(which they define as “lively and relaxed”)
and they follow its long tradition keeping
its wide sleeves, its unmistakable Neapolitan shoulder “spalla camicia”, its breast
pockets and light structure without liner
using light fabrics. Luca Rubinacci, an important figure in the field of the Neapolitan
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This company founded in 1907 in Zaragoza, now run by the third generation
of the family, continues to manufacture
handcrafted jackets, trench coats, coats,
pyjamas and robes. The company currently combines its national distribution with
manufacturing for various French, Austrian and London firms of international
prestige. Along with the classical models of
Teba jacket in green and blue, the company offers a wide range of colours and
materials (cashmere, wool, Harris Tweed,
cotton, linen, etc.) as well as the possibility to customize each jacket to the tiniest
detail, as says Timothy Everest, member of
the The Woolmark Company: “To dress
like a true gentleman means to express
the own individuality and reveal the way a
gentleman presents himself in public”. The
Teba jacket is a garment that is even in the
XXI century creating history: It is simply
a”Timeless Icon”.
tailoring defines it as “a jacket that is like
a second skin”. Moreover, many bloggers
and forums oriented on menswear in numerous countries around the world include
this garment in their “looks” and recommendations. Today, social networks do
not cease to praise the Teba jacket as the
“Spanish Jacket”.
The Armoury
The well- known businessman and collector of handicrafts (“artisanal clothiers”)
Mark Cho, founder of “The Armoury”,
has launched a new successful concept of
multi - brand business that is based on seewww.spend-in.com
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