Royal fortress of Chinon The visit starts with the royal quarters and continues throughout the site. All along these visit trails, films and interactive or audio terminals are there to help you discover the site and its history. These terminals present the history of the fortress and portray the great figures who have left their mark here. WHAT YOU CAN VISIT ◊ 1. the royal quarters historical show and light.................................. 6 of revolt................................10 ◊ ROOM 3 - Battle of kings..................................14 ◊ ROOM 4 - The destiny......................................18 2. the three castles The Middle castle ◊ ROOM 1 - Anger ◊ The ◊ ROOM 2 - Dawn ◊ The multimEdia - collections Fort Coudray of Arc Rooms................. 22 and Archaeology Rooms....................................... 26 royal quarters.........................................32 Argenton Tower.....................................34 ◊ The Dogs Tower...........................................36 ◊ The Clocktower............................................38 ◊ ROOMS 5 & 6 - Joan ◊ The ◊ ROOMS 7 & 8 - History ◊ The Boissy Tower.........................................40 Mill Tower.............................................42 ◊ The Coudray Tower......................................44 Fort Saint George ◊ Fort Saint George.........................................46 1. the royal quarters The visit of the royal quarters takes in: ◊ 4 historical show rooms ◊ 2 rooms devoted to Joan of Arc collections ◊ 1 multimedia room ◊ 1 History and Archaeology room In the 15th century, the royal quarters were arranged in three buildings set around a courtyard. The only surviving part of these buildings is the south wing, which today houses our royal quarters’ visit trail. This wing housed the apartments of Charles VII and Mary of Anjou, accommodated on the first floor. The queen, the main occupant of these quarters between 1435 and 1461, commissioned many alterations. the royal quarters ◊ historical show ◊ room 1 10-11th centuries “Anger and light” In Chinon, Fulk IV wrote the history of the counts of Anjou. This film evokes a day of the life of Fulk IV, Count of Anjou. He reigned for forty years, from 1068. He fortified the Castle of Chinon and commissioned the writing of the Chronicles of the Counts of Anjou, the first narrative history of this dynasty. 6 Chinon, residence of the Counts of Anjou Shortly before the millennium, France was divided into a patchwork of fiefdoms. At that time, the fortress of Chinon was held by the Counts of Blois, vassals of the King of France. Their neighbours, the Counts of Anjou, wanted to extend their domain and seized Touraine in 1044. Chinon then became one of their principal residences. 7 historic milestones ◊ 1044 ◊ Count Geoffrey Martel of Anjou seizes Touraine and the fortress of Chinon, ousting the Counts of Blois. ◊ 1087-1105 Fulk IV gradually restores his authority over his vassals. He levies a special tax in order to build a new fortified enclosure at the fortress. 1068 His nephew, Fulk IV known as Le Réchin (the Quarreller), succeeds him. Fulk usurps the title of Count of Anjou that should have fallen to his brother and who he holds prisoner in the fortress for almost thirty years. ◊ the royal quarters 1096 Pope Urban II, visiting Tours to preach on behalf of the Crusade, makes a visit to Chinon in person, to obtain his release. 8 ◊ 1109 At the death of Fulk IV, Anjou had more or less attained its definitive borders. His grandson, Geoffrey V of Anjou, called the Handsome (le Bel) adopts the nickname Plantagenet that is to remain with the dynasty thereafter. Geoffrey’s son, Henri II Plantagenet, will later become king of England. 9 the royal quarters ◊ historical show ◊ room 2 12th century “Dawn of revolt” Chinon, heart of the Plantagenet Empire The rivalries between Henri II and his sons disrupt the Plantagenet Empire. This film evokes moments of the reign of Henri II Plantagenet at Chinon. In 1172, the castle is the scene of the conflict between the sovereign and his sons, who are supported by their mother Eleanor of Aquitaine. These betrayals afflict Henri II up until his death at Chinon, on July 6, 1189. Around 1140, Geoffrey V, Count of Anjou, took the nickname Plantagenet (after the yellow sprig of broom he wore in his hat [French: genêt]). His son Henry II, crowned king of England in 1154, reigned over a vast empire stretching from England to Aquitaine, taking in Normandy and Anjou. He made Chinon the centre of his continental possessions. 10 11 historic milestones ◊ 1152 ◊ 1154 ◊ Henry Plantagenet marries Eleanor, just divorced from the King of France. She brings him Aquitaine in her dowry. In thirteen years, they have eight children five of whom are boys. ◊ Henry inherits a claim to the crown of England from his mother and takes the name of Henry II. At Chinon, he commissions much building work including Fort Saint George, a palatial structure where he installs his administration and his government. ◊ the royal quarters 1173 Henry II has his wife Eleanor imprisoned at Chinon. Accused of supporting her sons’ plots against him, she is subsequently kept under house arrest in England for nearly fifteen years. 1189 At the time of his death at Chinon, Henry leaves his sons a very organized state, but their rivalry makes this empire fragile. 1170 The king divides his time between England and his continental states. Touraine, with the Castle of Chinon, becomes a base for military operations for the king. 12 13 the royal quarters ◊ historical show ◊ room 3 early 13th century “Battle of kings” Chinon becomes part of the kingdom of France Philippe Auguste and Richard The Lionheart clash. This film evokes the confrontation between the Plantagenets, kings of England and the Capetians, kings of France, at the turn of the 12th and 13th centuries. Despite their unity in the Crusade, a territorial struggle ensues between the two sovereigns. The capture of the fortress of Chinon, in 1205, is a turning point in this conflict. In 1191, Richard The Lionheart reigns over the Plantagenet Empire. He allies with Philippe Auguste, King of France, in the Crusade. On the way back from the Crusade, Richard is taken prisoner. Philippe Auguste takes advantage of the situation to attack Normandy, Maine, Poitou and Anjou. Entering into an alliance with the King of France, John Lackland betrays his imprisoned brother. 14 15 historic milestones ◊ 1191 the royal quarters ◊ Richard The Lionheart, King of England, and Philippe Auguste, King of France, go to the Crusade and win several victories together in the Holy Land. Philippe Auguste is the first to return to the West. ◊ ◊ 1192-1194 On his return from the crusade, Richard, now nicknamed Lionheart, is taken prisoner by the emperor of Germany. He is freed in return for a considerable ransom. He must now restore his power, exercised in his absence by his younger brother John of England (John Lackland), who has allied himself with the King of France. He undertakes to re-conquer his territories, starting with Normandy, controlled by Philippe Auguste. 16 1199 Richard is wounded in the siege of Châlus, in Limousin. He dies without an heir, leaving the much coveted Plantagenet crown to his brother John Lackland. 1200-1202 For two years, King John improves the fortifications of the Castle of Chinon. In August 1200, he chooses Chinon to celebrate his marriage to Isabella of Angouleme, cousin of the King of France, who he has snatched away from her suitor Hugh de Lusignan. Seizing this pretext, Philippe Auguste goes back to war against John. ◊ 1205 The fortress falls on June 23, while John is in England. Defeated in 1214, he returns to Chinon to sign a truce with Philippe Auguste. 17 the royal quarters ◊ historical show ◊ room 4 15th century “The Destiny” Chinon, the historic encounter The encounter of Joan of Arc and Charles at Chinon. This film evokes the beginnings of the epic story of Joan of Arc: the journey from Vaucouleurs in Lorraine to Chinon, the encounter with the future Charles VII, then the finding of her sword at the church of Sainte-Catherine-de-Fierbois. This episode announces the re-conquest of the kingdom of France from the English. Since the beginnings of the Hundred Years’ war in 1328, the kingdom of France has been in a state of upheaval. In 1419, the king of France Charles VI, disinherits his son, the Dauphin Charles, favouring the King of England. The future Charles VII withdraws to Bourges and to his domains in the Loire. He makes Chinon one of his residences. 18 19 historic milestones ◊ 1420 The future Charles VII disputes the validity of the treaty of Troyes, disinheriting him, and has himself proclaimed King of France. His kingdom, limited to territories to the south of the Loire, has Bourges for its capital. ◊ 1422-1427 Charles celebrates his marriage with Mary of Anjou in Bourges. At that time, Chinon is his summer residence and he installs the court there in 1427. ◊ 1429 In March, Joan of Arc comes to Chinon to meet Charles VII. This famous episode of the epic story is generally depicted as a mythical and miraculous scene: The Recognition. 20 the royal quarters There were actually two meetings at Chinon. The first one was on February 25, 1429, two days after the arrival of Joan. She was taken to the apartments of the king who received her with a small committee. She was lodged in the Coudray keep. Charles VII then sent her to Poitiers so that theologians could judge her good faith. On her return, Joan was again received by the king. This second audience “of the Sign”, took on the more official status often attributed to the first interview. 21 the royal quarters ◊ multimedia - collections ◊ rooms 5 & 6 Joan of Arc rooms Only one portrait of Joan was actually made during her life time. This bears no resemblance to the multitude of representations produced after her death. The works presented in these rooms form a collection devoted to the representations of Joan of Arc from the 16th to the 20th century. 22 A POPULAR ICON The plumed heroin of the monarchy In the 17th century, at the initiative of Cardinal Richelieu, the «famous» who gave their lives for the king were used to extol loyalty to the kingdom. Joan of Arc was transformed into an allegorical figure. In that era, she was represented as an Amazon sporting a plume, a symbol of victory. 23 mutimedia - collections The “statue-mania” of the 19th century In the 19th century, sculptors seized upon Joan of Arc and a very great number of statues were devoted to her. At the end of the century, nationalism in France was reinforced by the defeat at the hands of Prussia in 1870. The abundant representations of Joan of Arc illustrate this patriotic current. Joan of Arc as a symbol in WW1 During the First World War, the image of Joan of Arc was used to support the war effort. Postcards bearing her image were widely disseminated and often used in correspondence between the French soldiers and their families. By 1917, her image was famous well beyond the borders of France and posters were printed with her iconic image in Britain and in the United States. 24 the royal quarters Joan of Arc in pictures Joan of Arc has occupied a prominent place in popular iconography. The best known are the images from Epinal seen as of 1887. These are often the work of famous illustrators such as Job. The success of these images was further enhanced in 1909, which was marked by her beatification. In 1956, the fifth centenary of her rehabilitation again created a renewed interest. Many posters were produced for her glorification between 1950 and 1960. 25 the royal quarters ◊ multimedia - collections ◊ rooms 7 & 8 History and Archaeology rooms These two rooms will help you to get a more in-depth understanding of the fortress, through the multimedia content as well as the archaeological and iconographic collections. The rooms can be visited independently from the royal quarters. 26 Chinon, from Gallic times to the present day The exhibits come from recent archaeological excavations. They correspond to different periods and are grouped by theme: the tomb of a Gallic warrior, aspects of daily life in the Middle Ages, etc. An interactive display provides 3D reconstructions of the fortress at different eras. 27 the fortress A fortress reborn Beginning of the restructuring works 2010 2003 Listed as historic monument 1857 1840 Last fortification works during the wars of religion 1560 Louis I of Anjou undertakes substantial works 1350 Philippe Auguste extends the fortification 1205 First restoration Henri II Plantagenet undertakes the construction of Fort Saint George 1160 The fortified enclosure is completed by Fulk IV 1105 954 5 c The first stone tower is erected Construction of the wall of the castrum key actors in its history 1854 Prosper Mérimée intervenes to save the fortress from destruction 1429 Joan of Arc comes to Chinon to meet Charles VII 1205 Philippe Auguste takes the fortress 1189 Henri II dies at Chinon 1154 Henri II Plantagenet, Count of Anjou, becomes King of England 1044 Geoffrey Martel, Count of Anjou, takes the fortress from the Count of Blois 0 A Gallic warrior is buried at the site of Fort Saint George th Birth of a Gallo-Roman settlement 1 Gallic aristocratic residence on the site of Fort Saint George -1 st st c c 2. the threecastles The Middle castle ◊ The royal quarters ◊ The Argenton Tower ◊ The Dogs Tower ◊ The Clocktower Fort Coudray ◊ The Boissy Tower ◊ The Mill Tower ◊ The Coudray Tower Fort Saint George The royal fortress of Chinon is built on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river Vienne and the town. Little by little, the space was structured into three distinct parts, that the kings called their three castles. Thus, from west to east, the rocky promontory is divided by ditches, separating the three castles: Fort Coudray, the Middle castle and Fort Saint George. Each of them has a separate fortified enclosure. The royal quarters stand in the Middle Castle. the three castles ◊ the middle castle From the late 12th century onwards, the site of the royal quarters featured a large hall used for court life. In the course of the 13th century, a smaller building was added to the west. Around 1370, Duke Louis I of Anjou undertook the reconstruction of the royal quarters, introducing a hall of justice. Of these works, only the south wing has survived to the present day. At the time of Charles VII, the royal quarters took on their definitive configuration, with three wings arranged around a courtyard. In the 15th century, the quarters housed the royal apartments. These include the essential amenities: an antechamber and a bedroom, bathroom and closet. The service rooms and the dining room are on the ground floor. Located at the eastern end of this wing, the 14th century Hall of Justice became the great hall of the castle also known as the «Hall of Recognition”. To the north, one of the buildings of the Saint-Melaine priory was transformed into a hall for playing court tennis (jeu de paume). 32 33 The royal quarters the three castles ◊ the middle castle In 1477, King Louis XI entrusted the fortress of Chinon to his biographer Philip Commynes, Lord of Argenton. He reinforced the northwest corner of the Middle Castle by building a new, more robust tower, able to withstand the new gunpowder weapons. Its walls are five meters thick and embrasures for cannons feature down to the lowest level, at ditch height. The top terrace is on the same level as the courtyard of the Middle Castle. This tower, less elevated than the others, is hence less fragile. It served as a prison in the 17th century, as evidenced by the graffiti on walls. The bombards (primitive canons) arranged on the terrace are originals dating back to the later 16th century. From this terrace, you can also observe the reconstruction of a wooden crane, from the late 12th or 13th century. 34 35 The Argenton Tower the three castles ◊ the middle castle The Dogs Tower The Dogs Tower is one of the great towers built during the reign of Philip Auguste, like the Coudray Tower and the Watchtower (tour de l'Échauguette). In contrast to the two others, it is not circular but in a horseshoe shape. It owes its name to nearby kennels, which housed the royal hounds in the 15th century. 36 It has three vaulted levels surmounted by a terrace. Access is on the middle floor. This is now on the same level as the Middle Castle, which was not the case in the Middle Ages. The loop-holes or arrow slits are offset from one level to another to provide effective defence and to avoid weakening the wall structure. Latrines are provided between the first and second floors. The bread oven situated on the middle floor, like the one in the neighbouring tower, probably dates back to the 15th century and provided for the needs of the court. 37 the three castles ◊ the middle castle the clocktower In its current lofty and slender configuration, the Clocktower dates from the late 14th century. Since the end of the 12th century, it has served as the entrance to the Middle Castle. It takes its name from the clock installed in the turret that rises above roof level. 38 Originally, the tower featured a door in a tall, slender structure, with a semi-circular extremity. Under the reign of Philippe Auguste, in the early 13th century, it was elevated and secured with a portcullis and a drawbridge. It was defended by three loop-holes. In the late 14th century, it was considerably elevated, in order to accommodate rooms. A spiral staircase was created to provide access to the five levels that the tower now boasted. An old “Chinonais” saying tells us the name of the bell that has rung out on the hour since 1399: “Mary-Javelle Is my name. Whoever set me Set me well Who may remove me The day will rue” 39 the three castles ◊ fort coudray The Boissy Tower The Boissy Tower was erected in the 13th century, perhaps at the time of Saint Louis (Louis IX). It derives its name from the lords of Boissy, governors of the Castle of Chinon in the 16th century. It offers a clear view of the valley and was probably home to a chapel on the first floor, under its elegantly sculpted arches. On the ground floor there is a guardroom, featuring loop-holes (arrow slits) that watch over the valley and the Coudray moat. A stairway built into the walls gives access to the two floors and the terrace. From the terrace, there is access to the Coudray Tower, via a walkway. In the early 15th century, major alterations were made. The tower now communicated with the royal quarters, via a walkway and through an added gate, preceded by a drawbridge. An extra floor was also added. 40 41 the three castles ◊ fort coudray The Mill Tower The Tower Mill is a prime example of military architecture from the days of King John. It is a key element of Fort Coudray, built in the late 12th century. The ground floor, with its polygonal plan, and segmental, domed roof, is typical of the era, but very rare in Plantagenet castles. It owes its name to the presence of a windmill perched on its summit, a feature of the modern era. 42 It is the only tower of the castle to be protected in its lower part by a perimeter wall. You go in at ground floor level from Fort Coudray. The ground floor does not communicate with the first floor, accessible only by the walkway. Both rooms are equipped with loop-holes opening into niches, characteristic of the time. The top floor, which forms a perfect lookout, features six large windows. Access from the first floor is by a staircase built into in the thickness of the wall, which also rises onto the terrace. 43 the three castles ◊ fort coudray The Coudray Tower is the one of the three surviving towers from the works carried out by Philippe Auguste after he captured the fortress in 1205. It overlooks the Mill Tower built by his enemy King John. Its name dates from the Middle Ages and may be due to the presence of a grove of hazelnut trees inside the fort (“coudres” in old French). The tower is flanked by a door with a drawbridge and a portcullis, which secures the Fort Coudray. There are still three levels intact, all featuring loop-holes. The first two are covered with a Gothic vault. Access to the tower is on the second floor, and the door is protected by a trap (dropbox). It has fireplaces and latrines. The lower room features a tunnel entrance, allowing occupants to escape discreetly in case of siege. These design details were modern and sophisticated, and are a sign of the close attention that the royal powers paid to Chinon. It was used as a prison for dignitaries of the Order of the Temple in 1308. Joan of Arc was a guest there in 1429. 44 45 The Coudray Tower the three castles ◊ fort saint george fort saint george Around 1160, Henry II Plantagenet built a new set of buildings to the east of the old fortress inherited from his ancestors. This palace, designed without any military purpose, was intended for his administration and to hold his court when he was in residence at Chinon. Fort Saint George was named after the palace’s chapel, dedicated to Saint George, patron saint of knights. 46 Forty years later, the son of Henry II, King John, strengthened the defences of the castle to resist the pressure of his rival King Philippe Auguste of France. He fortified Fort Saint George, which became an outpost protecting the main castle from the direction of the road to Tours. Today, it houses the new welcome centre for the fortress. 47 ◊ scenography ◊ companies Sponsor Conseil général d’Indre-et-Loire Audiovisual and multimedia production Compagnie des taxis-brousse Drôle de trame Extras for historical reconstructions: Association pour l'histoire vivante Design, lighting scenography Frédéric Casanova Management of productions, mediation Michel Kouklia (Ubiscène) Printing of guidebook Imprimerie Escourbiac Graphics, printing & signage Agnès Dahan Fittings and organisation GL Events services Scientific committee (Cg37) Marie-Eve Scheffer, archaeologist, fortress director Bruno Dufaÿ, archaeologist, head of Archaeology department Julie Pellegrin, chief curator, Monuments and Museums Multimedia equipment ETC audiovisuel The films in the historical show rooms were created by Benjamin Silvestre Excerpts of films p. 6: Jacques Develay ; p. 10: Roxane Lebrun, Elisabeth Montaufray, JeanBaptiste Chauvin, Thomas Laliberté; p. 14: Franck Beckmann, Pierre Bayard, p. 18 : Aurélia Poirier forteresse royale de chinon Networks, lighting Sté Bideau Principal by delegation SET Sté d’équipement de la Touraine Hélène Garric Anne Lavat The restructuring of the fortress was completed with the assistance of:
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