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UNIBIOVIT B-33
UNIBIOVIT B-332 WSL
BIOACTIVE INGREDIENT COMPLEX
WITH SKIN MOISTURIZING AND WRINKLE SOOTHING PROPERTIES
FOR COSMETIC SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
Contents
1.
Introduction ............................................................................................................ 3
2.
Concept of the Unibiovit active ingredient complex ........................................... 3
3.
Mode of action ........................................................................................................ 4
4.
Significance for cosmetic applications ................................................................ 5
5.
Efficacy tests .......................................................................................................... 6
5.1
Moisture in the skin .................................................................................................... 6
5.2
Roughness of the skin (profilometry with quantitative image analysis) ............... 7
5.3
Further Tests ............................................................................................................... 8
5.3.1 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) .......................................................................... 8
5.3.2
Evaluation of cutaneous sebum formation................................................................ 8
5.3.3
Summary................................................................................................................. 10
6.
Characteristics of Unibiovit B-33 (oil soluble) ................................................... 11
7.
Characteristics of Unibiovit B-332 wsl (water soluble) ..................................... 12
8.
References ............................................................................................................ 13
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
1.
Introduction
A prerequisite for healthy skin with a fresh, youthful appearance is the maintenance of
the equilibrium of the skin's metabolism.
Cosmetological experience has shown that certain bioactive ingredients can make a
very substantial contribution towards sustaining this equilibrium.
It is the task of modern scientific treatment cosmetics to make such active ingredients
accessible to the skin and thereby to delay changes caused by ageing, the environment,
material displacements; and to replenish or compensate for missing substances and
actively protect the healthy condition of the skin.
2.
Concept of the Unibiovit active ingredient complex
It has only recently become possible, by virtue of new scientific knowledge, to gain a
more thorough understanding of the well-known fact that the properties of essential fatty
acids and isoprenoid lipid precursors are bioactive and exceptionally beneficial to the
skin.
Essential fatty acids are polyunsaturated carboxylic acids and are also known as
Vitamin F. This group of substances is regarded very particularly as a skin vitamin. In
the strictly scientific sense, Vitamin F has long been considered not to belong to the true
vitamins. The exceptional properties of the essential fatty acids, however, suggest that
the term Vitamin F is becoming increasingly justified.
Isoprenoids play an extremely important part in the life of the cells. As biochemical
precursors they participate in the endogenous synthesis of the steroids which make an
essential contribution towards maintaining the biological equilibrium in the skin.
Furthermore, all fat-soluble vitamins are synthesized from isoprenoid units.
Combining the active principles of essential fatty acids on the one hand, and isoprenoid
lipid precursors on the other, results in an outstanding concept for an exceptional active
ingredient complex with excellent properties of caring for the skin in terms of sustaining
its regeneration.
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3.
Mode of action
Essential fatty acids cannot be synthesized by the human body and their absence
causes deficiency syndromes [1,2]. They are essential for the synthesis of the cell
membranes, where they are usually incorporated in the form of phospholipids. They also
have a functional role in lipoprotein metabolism [1,3].
Essential fatty acids are important constituents of the ceramides, which play a decisive
part in the integrity of the skin’s barrier function. A deficiency of essential fatty acids
results, inter alia, in a loss of the skin's barrier function with changes in the
intraepidermal fluid equilibrium and transepidermal water loss [4], as well as in
disorganization of the keratinization process with hyperkeratosis [3].
Essential fatty acids are precursors for the biological synthesis of prostaglandins [5].
Prostaglandins have important functions in the cell balance and play an important part in
immunological phenomena [6]. In the skin, they regulate homeostasis of the epidermis
and keratinization [3]. Essential fatty acids remedy dry, flaccid and livid skin conditions
and reduce the incidence of eczema and acne. Moreover, the function of the sebaceous
glands is normalized, the subcutaneous cell tissue is strengthened and the skin's
resistance is increased [7]. Because of these properties, which are extremely important
dermatologically and cosmetologically, the essential fatty acids - the most important
representative of which is 9,12-cis, cis-linoleic acid - are predestined for use in cosmetic
treatment preparations which prevent premature ageing of the skin [8].
Farnesol and farnesol derivatives occupy a prime position among the isoprenoids as
biological precursors for numerous biosyntheses of vital importance. These are natural
substances of high biological potency, which also occur in this form as bioactivators in
the human skin [9].
Farnesol and farnesol derivatives are widely distributed in the plant and animal
kingdoms as well. It has been possible to detect them in countless blossom oils and
other ethereal oils [10], for example in lime blossom oil, acacia blossom oil, rose oil and
the blossom oils of lily of the valley, lilac, orange etc., in musk, sandalwood oil and so
on. It has also been possible to detect such substances in champagne [11], the farnesol
content being regarded as a significant quality factor in its bouquet.
Farnesol and farnesol derivatives are compounds and intermediates in the biosynthesis
of sterols and steroids which takes place in the skin [9, 12]. Also, all oil soluble vitamins
are isoprene derivatives in whose biosynthetic pathway farnesol derivatives represent
an important intermediate. Both, ß-carotene and Vitamins A, E and K are formed in
nature by this synthetic pathway. Farnesol is at the centre of this biological synthetic
process, one branch of the biogenesis leading to the steroid hormones and the other
branch producing the oil soluble vitamins mentioned above [13].
The Unibiovit active ingredient complex is an optimum combination of the essential
active principles of unsaturated fatty acids with isoprenoid precursors.
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
In order to be suitable for the diverse applications of finished cosmetic products,
Unibiovit is obtainable in both oil soluble and water soluble forms. In both variants, the
essential fatty acids are present as ethyl 9,12-cis, cis-linoleate, the molecular structure
of which is such that it is particularly readily absorbed by the skin. Furthermore, the ethyl
ester can be saponified considerably more rapidly than the glyceryl ester and at the
same time is markedly less sensitive to oxidation, even compared with the free fatty acid
[14]. A combination consisting of farnesol and farnesyl acetate is used as the isoprenoid
component.
In the case of the oil soluble variant, the active ingredient combination is dissolved as a
concentrate in decyl oleate; in the case of the water soluble variant, the same active
ingredients are present in the same concentration in a complex of highly effective, nonionic solubilizers.
4.
Significance for cosmetic applications
In general, the following possible modes of action can be found in the specialized
literature:
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•
promotes regeneration of the epidermis through increased cell division
•
stimulates growth of elastic fibers
•
stimulates growth and strengthening of collagen fibers
•
stimulates formation of mucopolysaccharides
•
increases tissue elasticity and tissue tonicity
•
smoothes wrinkles
•
counteracts flabbiness of cutaneous connective tissue
•
delays premature ageing of the skin
•
normalizes the skin's moisture retaining capacity
•
normalizes the skin's fat balance
•
strengthens subcutaneous cell tissue
•
improves dandruff and eczema conditions
•
regulates keratinization
•
improves the skin's immune mechanisms
•
soothes the cutaneous tissue
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
5.
Efficacy tests
For quantifying the efficacy of cosmetic products, the methods of determining the
moisture in the skin (capacitance measurement with stray field capacitor) and the
roughness of the skin (profilometry with quantitative image analysis) have become
established as meaningful and highly reliable assessment criteria [15]. The Unibiovit
active ingredient complex - incorporated at 5% in a neutral test cream - was therefore
subjected to such measurements.
5.1
Moisture in the skin
The tests on moisture in the skin were carried out with a corneometer. This is an
instrument which measures the dielectric constant of the skin by means of a stray field
capacitor as the measuring probe; the dielectric constant being a direct measure of the
skin's moisture content [16].The measurements were made on the inside forearms of 20
test subjects. The period of application was 14 days with two applications per day. The
measurements of the product value and the control patch (untreated) were made before
the start of the treatment and on day 15. The last application of the test preparation was
made approx. 12 hours prior to measurement.
Result: In consideration of the measured values of the control patch, the test
product effects a significant increase of the skin's moisture of more than 17%.
15.00
Moisture content
[%]
10.00
5.00
0.00
-5.00
Control field
Cream with 5%
UNIBIOVIT B-33
Figure 1: Moisture content
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
5.2
Roughness of the skin (profilometry with quantitative image analysis)
For the profilometric examination of the efficacy of our test cream, silicone impressions
of one control patch and one test patch were taken on the subjects' upper arms under
precisely defined climatic conditions, before and after the treatment. These impressions
were evaluated with an image analysis system (IBAS from Zeiss/Kontron). A microscope
image magnified 20 times was fed into a computer via a TV camera and displayed on
the screen. Using complex evaluation programs, the depth of the profile lines was
determined and the results from at least 10 subjects were secured statistically [17].Our
measurements were made on 20 test subjects. The period of application was 14 days
with two applications per day. The measurements of the product value and the control
patch were made before the start of the treatment and on day 15. The last application of
the test preparation was made approx 12 hours before the silicone impression was
taken.
Result: In consideration of the measured values of the control patch, the test
product effects a significant smoothing of the wrinkles of more than 10%.
Reduction of skin roughness
[%]
0.00
-5.00
-10.00
-15.00
-20.00
-25.00
Control field
Cream with 5%
UNIBIOVIT B-33
Figure 2: Reduction of skin roughness
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
5.3
Further Tests
The efficacy studies described below were conducted in the USA by Consumer Product
Testing in 4 volunteers in each case, using proven test methods and the latest
equipment for measurement and evaluation.
5.3.1
Transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
For 7 days prior to the test phase, in preparation for the measurement of transepidermal
water loss, volunteers were instructed not to use any cosmetics apart from soap.
Four areas on the inner surface of the forearm of volunteers were marked for
measurements. A neutral test cream containing 5% Unibiovit B-33 was applied to one
area, a placebo preparation with no active ingredient to another, petrolatum as standard
to another and a control area was left untreated. These areas were allowed to dry for
one hour under precisely defined climatic conditions. After one, two and four hours,
transepidermal water loss was measured with an evaporimeter. The results of this study
may be summarized as follows:
•
The placebo preparation was found to have a slight effect, reducing
transepidermal water loss by 29%.
•
The preparation containing 5% Unibiovit B-33 showed a pronounced effect,
reducing water loss by 52%.
•
Pure petrolatum is known to have a strongly occlusive effect and in the test
methods selected was used as a standard, achieving a reduction in
transepidermal water loss of 66%.
The test preparation containing 5% Unibiovit B-33 therefore achieves a reduction
in transepidermal water loss of around 80% of the effect of pure petrolatum.
5.3.2
Evaluation of cutaneous sebum formation
For the investigations to assess the effect of the Unibiovit B-33 active substance
complex on sebum formation, only volunteers with greasy skin were selected. For seven
days prior to the test phase they were instructed not to use any cosmetics except for
soap
At the beginning of the 28-day test phase sebum levels were measured on the
foreheads of the volunteers using the proven sebumeter method with sebutapes. The
volunteers were then instructed to apply the test cream containing 5% Unibiovit B-33
twice daily to one side of the forehead and a placebo preparation containing no active
substance to the other side, keeping a precise record of these applications. At the end
of the 28-day test phase both halves of the forehead were tested with sebutape.
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
All sebutape impressions were evaluated by computer assisted quantitative image
analysis. The results may be summarized as follows:
Number of active sebaceous glands: test cream:
placebo cream:
14% reduction
10% reduction
Average size of sebaceous glands:
23% reduction
6% increase
test cream:
placebo cream:
The following graph illustrates these results:
10
Placebo
Testcream
Change in %
5
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
-25
Num ber of
sebaceous glands
Size of sebaceous
glands
Figure 3: Talgdrüsen
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
The photographs below show the digitalized image analysis of sebutape impressions
before and after the 28-day treatment with test cream containing 5% Unibiovit B-33,
taken from the original report:
Three dimensional representation of digitalized image with a two dimensional
projection:
Figure 4: Before
Figure 5: After
Two dimensional representation of digitalized image:
Figure 6: Before
5.3.3
Figure 7: After
Summary
The test results shown here confirm the outstanding characteristics of the Unibiovit
active substance complex in relation to transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and to sebum
reduction. Together with its previously known efficacy with regard to moisture retention
and the smoothing of wrinkles, they demonstrate the success of this complex, based on
biological precursors in skin care cosmetics.
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
6.
Characteristics of Unibiovit B-33 (oil soluble)
Description
Slightly viscous liquid.
Analytical data
See specifications.
Solubility
Readily soluble in isopropyl myristate, polyethylene glycol, Cetiol V,
Miglyol 812 and vegetable oils.
Insoluble in water.
Storage
Shelf life
5°C - 25°C (see safety data sheet)
2 years (see specification)
Processing
By virtue of special stabilization against atmospheric oxidation, both
Unibiovit B-33 and Unibiovit B-332 wsl are relatively stable and can be
processed under the conditions conventionally used for the preparation
of cosmetic products. Contact with the air should be minimized as far as
possible, however, and temperatures above 70°C should be avoided.
Skin tolerance
Unibiovit B-33 and Unibiovit B-332 wsl have been thoroughly examined
by means of extensive patch tests involving subjects with different
degrees of skin sensitivity. Neither primary irritation nor intolerance is
evident. Both products show very good skin tolerance.
Application
Unibiovit is a high quality active ingredient complex for cosmetics. By
virtue of being soluble in oil, Unibiovit B-33 can be used in formulations
such as emulsions (O/W and W/O), lotions, oils or sticks.
Because of its solubility properties, Unibiovit B-332 wsl is predestined
for use in aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic treatment products for the
skin and hair, such as hair lotions, hair tinctures, shampoos, shaving
lotions etc.
Dosage
On the basis of experience and the test results described in
section 5, a use concentration of about 5% in finished products is
recommended for both Unibiovit B-33 and Unibiovit B-332 wsl.
Identification
INCI name
Chinese name
CAS No.
Decyl Oleate
Farnesol
Ethyl Linoleate
Farnesyl Acetate
油酸癸酯
金合欢醇
亚油酸乙酯
金合欢醇乙酸酯
3687-46-5
4602-84-0
544-35-4
29548-30-9
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
7.
Characteristics of Unibiovit B-332 wsl (water soluble)
Description
Slightly viscous liquid.
Analytical data
See specifications.
Solubility
Soluble in water, aqueous and pure ethanol and glycerol.
Storage
Shelf life
15°C - 25°C (see safety data sheet)
2 years (see specification)
Processing
By virtue of special stabilization against atmospheric oxidation, both
Unibiovit B-33 and Unibiovit B-332 wsl are relatively stable and can be
processed under the conditions conventionally used for the preparation
of cosmetic products. Contact with the air should be minimized as far as
possible, however, and temperatures above 70°C should be avoided.
Skin tolerance
Unibiovit B-33 and Unibiovit B-332 wsl have been thoroughly examined
by means of extensive patch tests involving subjects with different
degrees of skin sensitivity. Neither primary irritation nor intolerance is
evident. Both products show very good skin tolerance.
Application
Unibiovit is a high quality active ingredient complex for cosmetics. By
virtue of being soluble in oil, Unibiovit B-33 can be used in formulations
such as emulsions (O/W and W/O), lotions, oils or sticks.
Because of its solubility properties, Unibiovit B-332 wsl is predestined
for use in aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic treatment products for the
skin and hair, such as hair lotions, hair tinctures, shampoos, shaving
lotions etc.
Dosage
On the basis of experience and the test results described in
section 5, a use concentration of about 5% in finished products is
recommended for both Unibiovit B-33 and Unibiovit B-332 wsl.
Identification
INCI name
Chinese name
CAS No.
PEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate
PEG-36 Castor Oil
Farnesol
Ethyl Linoleate
Farnesyl Acetate
PEG-12 甘油月桂酸酯
PEG-36 蓖麻油
金合欢醇
亚油酸乙酯
金合欢醇乙酸酯
59070-56-3
61791-12-6
4602-84-0
544-35-4
29548-30-9
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UNIBIOVIT B-33/B-332 WSL
8.
References
1. Friedmann, Z. Am. J. Dis. Child 134, 397–408 (1980).
2. Riella, M.C. et al. Ann. Intern. Med. 83, 786–789 (1975).
3. Truchtet, E. et al. Z. Hautkr. 63 (4), 290–301 (1988).
4. Friberg, S.E. et al. Cosmet. and Toil. 102 (4), 135-139 (1987).
5. Brooks, G. Cosmet. and Toil. 99 (5), 45–52 (1984).
6. Mertin, J. et al. Int. Archs. Allergy appl. Immun. 77, 390–395 (1985).
7. Tur, W. Fette, Seifen, Anstrichm. 75, 553-555 (1973).
8. Morganti, P. et al. J. Appl. Cosmetol. 3, 211–222 (1985).
9. Cottron, H.A. Dermatologie und Venerologie, pp. 1220–1225. Georg Thieme
Verlag, Stuttgart (1962).
10. Karrer, W. Konstitution und Vorkommen der organischen Pflanzenstoffe, pp.
57. Birkhäuser Verlag, Basel (1958).
11. Rodopulo, A.K. et al. Lozar. Vinar. 24 (7), 35–41 (1975).
12. Karlson, P. Kurzes Lehrbuch der Biochemie, pp. 209–211. Georg Thieme
Verlag, Stuttgart (1970).
13. Schrader, K. et al. Parf. und Kosm. 70 (2), 68–76 (1989.)
14. Winkler, A. et al. Arch. Derm. Res. 254, 287–294 (1975).
15. Corcuff, P. et al. Int. J. Cosm. Sci. 6, 67–176 (1984).
16. Isler, O. et al. Vitamine I, pp. 13–1. Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart (1982).
17. Yanishlieva, N. et al. SÖFW 97 (20), 727–729 (1971).
**
Our indications and recommendations have been worked out to the best of our knowledge and conscience, but
without any obligation from our part. In particular, we do not take any responsibility concerning protection rights of a
third party.
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