N
CONGRATULATIONS
U
A
You are now the proud owner of a sewing machine that is the ulti
mate in technological advancement.
Full size and sturdy, this sewing machine places a limitless variety
of stitching effects at your finger tips.
Your new machine has many new features that you will easily
become familiar with by reading these step-by-step instructions.
This knowledge of your new machine will allow you to fully enjoy
the pleasure and satisfaction of sewing with it.
FEATURES OF THE CAMAMATIC 502 SUPER DE LUXE
1.
De luxe two-tone color.
2.
Clean simple lines.
..
10.
acclaimed by everyone as the most beautiful
sewing machine in the world,
3.
Controls are grouped on a panel.
They are well placed from
both the esthetic and practical standpoint providing an unusual
ease of control.
4.
The top cover slips off easily, exposing all parts for quick and
easy Oiling.
5.
The large sliding bobbin case cov€r plate provides easy access to
the bobbin case.
6.
Exclusive hinged face plate cover swings open to provide easy
access to sewing light.
.
.
and easy oiling of the face plate mec
hanism.
7.
Sew-light over needle spotlights your work eliminating any possi
bility of eye strain.
8.
New exclusive upper tension control—esthetic and practical—adds
to the simplicity and beauty of styling.
9.
Three needle positions permits moving the needle from left to
center to right or back again instantaneously while sewing... eli
minates shifting of cloth for close stitching..
.
providing an infin
ite variety of designs when zigzag and decorative ornamental sew
ing is beitig done.
AUTOM
Presso
E
AUTOMATIC ZIG ZAG SEWING MACHIN
10.
accurate
Pressomatic calibrated pressure control is faster, more
presser foot
and instantly adjustable to the proper and correct
pressure.
11.
es positive
Lifetime, dustless, slipless, tooth-type motor belt provid
control at all sewing speeds.
12.
13.
and vibration.
Cast “no-twist” motor bracket eliminates torque
designs- -even
Instantaneous control of the stitch width of your
while the machine is running.
14.
lever prov
Specially designed all-in-one stitch length and reverse
ides positive control both forward and backward.
15.
at proper
Drop feed control designed to permit feed dog to be
to be comp
height for heavy materials and for thin materials.
.
-
... is plunger
letely disengaged for darning or embroidery work
designed for quick positive return action.
16.
s.
Each single cam will produce 3 different decorative stitche
—3--—
GENERAL CARE AND OILING
To obtain full and complete efficiency from your sewing machine,
study these instructions carefully to become familiar with its operati
on and the controls and devices which are new to you.
Do nc
the se
bend.
Your sewing machine was carefully adjusted, tested on every kind of
sewing and was passed by the Chief Inspector after it was found to
Chang
be perfect in every respect.
Keep your machine cleaned and oiled... use thread of good quality
and of proper size and weight for the material.
.
.
use needles of good
quality and of the proper size for the weight of thread you are using.
The a’
new w
point I
needle,
Be sure that the bobbin is evenly wound.
and that the machine
..
is threaded correctly.
Proper
Practice sewing on your machine so that you will operate it easily
few mi
and naturally when you are making a garment.
you ha
Practice bobbin winding by taking the thread from one bobbin to
another.
Remove and replace the needle several times,
.
.
thread and unthread
the machine a number of times until you can do it easily and natu
rally.
These little practice sessions will make you expert in the handling
of your machine and will pay divicfends in finish and appearance
when you are dressmaking in earnest.
—4—
stitch 1
Do not help by pulling on the cloth, for your
seam will be uneven...
the seam will pucker.
the thread may break.
and the needle will
bend.
.
.
.
.
Change needles often.
The average dress has upwards of 10,000 stitches...and
a needle, if
new when starting, has pierced the material this many
times and the
point has become dulled.
If you see lint fuzz at the eye of the
needle, replace it for it indicates that the needle
eye is rough.
Proper stitch length is important, too, and a practic
e session for a
few minutes on a piece of the material to be sewn
will tell you if
you have (a) the proper thread, (b) the right needle
, (c) the correct
stitch length and (d) the right tension setting.
—5—
TAKE-UP LEVER
—-
PRESS-O-MATIC
CAM DOOR
THREAD GUIDE
\
NEEDLE POSITION
CONTROL
V
C)
ZIGZAG STITCH
WIDTH LEVER
SPOOL PIN
HAND WHEEL
0
I-
—
OILING INSTRUCTIONS
1.
Use only an oil refined and prepared for sewing machines.
2.
Put a drop at a time at the points shown in the illustration if
the machine is used frequently.
3.
If the sewing machine is used infrequently, use several drops;
however, before sewing, practice stitching on some material scraps
until the oil has penetrated or reached all hearing surfaces and
excess
4.
Oil
has been wiped off.
Use extreme care when oiling the motor to be sure that oil does
not reach the armature, coils. etc.
—7
IMPORTANT NOTES
The rotation of the machine must always
be in the direction shown by the arrow,
(See illustration with the arrow curving
and pointing over the hand wheel towards
the user) and never in the opposite
direction.
The machine should never be run except
Fig. 1
when there is material under the presser foot and
when the presser
foot is down to avoid thread tangling and breaking.
At the end of the seam, to remove the work from
machine, bring
the needle to the highest position by turning the
wheel in the direc
tion of the user (never in the other direction).
Raise the presser foot
(this, also releases the upper tension discs,
allowing the thread to pull out freely).
Remove the work by pulling it gently in the directi
on of sewing, in
sert the threads and cut them on the blade of
the thread cutter.
Raise the presser foot only when the needle
is at the top
position except when you have to continue sewing
in a different
direction to that of the preceding seam; in this
case, take care not
to puii or bend the needle, and raise the foot
a little with the
needle still piercing the material. The work can be
turned around the
needle, lowering the presser foot afterwards.
NOTE:
—8—
UPPER THREADING
Turn the handwheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
For correct threading pass the thread through the guides and tension
regulator as follows:
Place thread on spool pin and hold spool lightly, allowing
as the thread is pulled.
it
to slip
Bring the thread through thread guide A
down to the tension regulator B and under and between the tension
discs C from right to left and up.
Continue by placing in loop of check spring D and under retaining
barE.
g
Continue up and thread
through the take-up lever
F from right to left and
down
through
thread
guides (2) H.
Be sure to slip thread
into the
needle
clamp
thread guide I and then
thread the needle from
left to right.
Fig.
2
—9—
TH
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Disengage the wheel, (Fig. 3.)
Hol
Place thread on spool pin A
top.
(Fig. 4) and draw thread through
thread guide on top cover
Ins€
B
up
(Fig. 4.) Bring thread across the
Fig
3
machine to bobbin winder thread guide on bed plate C.
Pull thread under and up left to right.
Wind a few turns of thread by hand around the bobbin and place
bobbin on bobbin winder spindle.
Press on lever marked PUSH and bobbin winder will engage the hand
wheel.
Start to fill bobbin by running the machine at normal speed to allow
the bobbin to wind evenly and firmly.
The bobbin winder will stop
and disengage itself, when the bobbin is about eighty percent filled.
NOTE: Do not fail to
tighten the brake button
on
the
hand
wheel
(clock-wise) to re-engage
the sewing mechanism.
/
Fig.
4
—
10
—
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Hold bobbin in right hand with thread running to the right from the
top.
Insert bobbin and pull the thread into the slot under the spring and
up into the eye.
The tension adjustment of
NOTE:
the bobbin case is regulated by
partial turns of the
adjustment
screw. It has been carefully and
scientifically
preset
and
will
seldom—if ever—
need to be
Fig.
changed or
5
re-set.
Fig.
Fig.
6
8
Fig. 7
—
11
—
REGULATING THREAD TENSION
The upper tension is always released when the presser foot
is raised. Do not attempt to change or regulate upper tension until
presser foot is lowered all the way to the feed dog.
NOTE:
/_;
Fig.
9
To have a perfect stitch the threads must
be equally tightened from above and below
so that they join in the middle of the
material being sewn. Sheer material
requires a loose tension, while heavy
material requires more tension.
TO TIGHTEN the tension, turn the thread
tension regulator to the right.
TO LOOSEN the tension, turn the thread
tension regulator to the left.
LOOSEN
TIGHTEN
Lower ienson regulator
Fig. 10
As all machines are
correctly adjusted before
leaving the factory and
readjusted before delivered to you, the lower tension
seldom requires changing; but if this becomes
necessary, tighten the screw in the tension spring
on the outside of the bobbin case for more tension,
or loosen the screw slightly for less tension.
—
12
—
PRESSO-MATtC REGULATOR
the presser foot on the
The Press-o-matic controls the pressure of
al pressure when pressed
material and can be regulated to exert norm
inate all pressure if the
down all of the way. .or regulated to elim
it the presser bar (Fig. 13)
ontside ring (Fig. 12) is pressed to perm
If you attempt to sew
.
to raise about threequarters of an inch
.
ed by hand.
without pressure, the material must be mov
set the presser bar to
When sewing on thin or sheer materials
down for normal or
number 2 or number 3 position. all the way
.
heavy material.
S
Fig.
Fig.
12
—
13
—
13
DROP FOOD CONTROL
tF
at
1
Th
Fig.
H
14
U’
tl
1.
For regular sewing press the button on the right down (See
A Fig. 14) as far as
2.
it
P
will go.
For light or sheer materials press the left button (See B Fig. 14)
down until the red line is about even with the plate. (If the left
button is too far, press the right button to force the left one up
d
p
L
S
and repeat the procedure).
it
3.
For darning or free-hand embroidery, press the left button down
(See B Fig. 14) as far as it will go.
(Best results are obtained
when the darning spring is attached to the needle clamp).
—
14
—
STARTING TO SEW
When starting to sew, the
thread take-up lever must be
at its highest
prevent
the
position to
needle
from
becoming unthreaded.
Hold the free end of the
upper thread lightly and turn
Fig,
15
the hand wheel towards you until the lower thread comes up.
Pull the ends to the back, being sure that the upper thread goes
down, through and under the presser foot. Place material under the
presser foot.
Lower the presser foot.
Start the machine and guide the material by letting the machine feed
itself.
Do not pull on the material.
Do not run the machine unless there is material under the presser
foot.
Do not run the machine with
the presser foot raised.
Fig.
16
—
15
—
REGULATING THE STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length regulator adjusts the stitch length
E
from very long (about 6 stitches per inch
for
very heavy material)
to very short (about 30
stitches per inch for very sheer material).
Ii
Normal seaming or stitching requires a setting
of
11:. [1
12 to 14 stitches per inch (3).
1IILLW
Fig.
S
17
m
The stitch length regulator, when raised above the
center of the stitch
length panel, reverses the direction of the material and
causes it to
move back to you.
Reversing
the movement of the material is excellent for reinforcing
a seam by double, triple or quadruple seaming.
.
.
excellent for back-
tacking the start or the end of a seam. Simply flick
the lever up for
4 or 5 stitches and then bring it down again and the
seam is securely
locked. (Fig. 18)
For basting, use the longest stitch by pressing the
stitch length lever
all the way down and set the tension indicat
or to loose. The
expert will use a slightly heavier bobbin threa
d).
The threads
can be easily pulled out after the permanent seam
has been sewn.
NOTE:
Do not neglect to return all settings to normal when
basting
has been completed.
—
16
—
E
St
Ra
in
Re
NC
Excellent darning or reinforcing can be done by adjusting the knob
on the stitch length lever to limit or stop its downward or upward
movement.
Set the stitch length to 4, use a mercerized thread, and when the
machine is running move the lever up and down in a rhythmic
movement and
gently
guide the
material to the side as
moves
it
backwards and forwards.
Fig.
18
END OF SEAM
Stop the machine with the take-up lever and needle at their highest
positions.
Raise the presser foot (This also releases the upper tension, allow
ing the thread to pull easily.)
Remove the work by pulling
NOTE:
it
gently toward the back and to the side.
Tithe material does not pull easily, rock the hand wheel
gently back and forth to release the under thread from the hook
or shuttle mechanism.
—
17
—
CLEANING THE SHUTTLE MECHANISM
RE
From time to time thread ends and lint may accumulate in the shuttle
Holc
mechanism. (This problem can be noted if the sewing machine
hand
becomes noisy and is operating under strain).
The removal of lint
and thread ends does not require the services of a mechanic.
Place
until
It can be quickly, simply and easily done as follows:
1.
Remove bobbin case.
2.
Push spring loaded knobs A away from the center.
3.
Lift off hook or shuttle cover ring.
4.
Remove the shuttle and clean
it
and the inside race carefully,
removing all dirt, lint and thread ends.
5.
Replace the shuttle and shuttle cover ring in reverse order.
6.
Push spring loaded knobs back into their holding position.
7.
Replace bobbin case.
Fig.
—
18
19
—
REPLACING BOBBIN CASE
and forefinger of left
Hold bobbin case by grasping latch with thumb
hand. Fig. 21.
Place bobbin case on hook or shuttle pin.
Close latch by pushing it
until it clicks into place.
Fig.
—
19
—
21
STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEWING
For straight sewing the position
of the zig zag lever must be set
at 0 as shown in Fig. 22.
Use
long
stitches for heavier
materials—increasing in length as
weight of materia] increases.
Fig.
22
Use shorter stitches for lighter weight materials- -very short for thin
or sheer materials- -to avoid seam puckering.
Do not pull or hold back on the material,
but, guide it only. (Pulling or holding back
on the material- -in addition to forming un
even stitches--will break or bend the needle).
NOTE:
Fig.
23
The needle position can be changed to move the stitching or seam
to the right or left as needed, eliminating the necessity for raising
the presser foot and moving the material to place the seam in the
desired position. (Fig. 23)
The effect of the needle position is as follows: (Fig. 24)
When using a maximum zig zag
width or throw, the position of the
seam will not be effected if the
needle position is changed.
NOTE:
o
NOTE: It is advisable to raise the needle
at its highest point when changing
the needle position to avoid bending
or breaking the needle.. .or to avoid
tearing the cloth.
I
Fig.
24
—
20
—
ZIG ZAG STITCHING
Zig zag sewing is side to
stitching at the
side
same time the ma’eral
is being moved forward
by the feed mechanism
as in normal straight
o
11
iGZAG WDTU
Fig.
sewing.
25
The width of the side to side stitches can be made
narrow or wide when the lever is moved to the
width shown on the control panel. (Fig. 25)
The closeness of the side to side stitching is regulated
by the stitch length control lever. (Fig. 26).
For normal zig zag stitching or seaming set the needle
position in the left
.
Fig. 26
When using a maximum zig zag width or throw the stitching or
seam will not be affected if the needle position is changed.
Remember that a zig zag stitch which is too wide on light materials
will crease or pucker the cloth.
If it is necessary to
do such work, place tissue paper under the material and remove it
carefully when the work is done. .or where it is possible, excellent
results can be obtained by holding the material tight in an embroidery
frame,
.
b
It is advisable, if one has not had experience, to practice
sewing on material samples with various widths and lengths of
stitching.
Always—when zig zag sewing is planned—practice
on the material to be worked on to (a) note the effect of the
stitch regulator settings, (b) make the final fine adjustments of
the settings to get the “just right” effect desired and (c) get the
“feel” of the stitching or seaming operation.
NOTE:
—
21
—
Zig zag stitching should not be confined to decorative or ornamental
stitching, for in addition to the production and creation of various
decorative patterns use the zig zag mecha
nism to overcast, satin stitch, join material
together, sew on buttons, make buttonholes,
shell stitching, rolled hems, plain hemming,
cording, back tacking, and reinforcing
seaming.
PLAIN ZIG ZAG STITCHING
Fig. 27
Place needle position in center. The width
is adjusted by the stitch width lever.
The closeness(or length) is adjusted by
the stitch length lever.
Fig. 28
Place material under lowered presser
foot and lower the feed dog.
Make 3
or 4 stitches and raise the feed dog. Complete the seam and at the
end lower the feed dog for 3 or 4 stitches. The bar tacking at the
start and end of the seam locks the stitches.
OVERCAST STITCHING
This stitching is similar to the normal or
plain zig zag and is used to prevent raw
edges fraying. Guide the material(Fig. 29).
So that the zig zag stitches come alternately
inside and just beyond the cut edge of the
material.
Fig. 29
—
22
—
DECORATIVE AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHING
Fig.
30
Fig.
31
Your zig zag sewing machine can be classified in two different cate
gories:
The first is a super deluxe straight sewer in which the needle
movement cannot be controlled and the second is a sewing machine
that has a controlled side to side needle movement simultaneously
with the up and down needle movement.
Limitless and various decorative stitch patterns can be easily created
to ornament or embroider dresses, blouses, shirts, skirts, children’s
clothes, bed linen, table linen, handkerchiefs, scarves, etc.
—
23
—
If you have not had much experience
it
is best to practice and discover
the patterns which can be done by the settings and manipulation of
the control levers.
Begin by placing material under the presser foot
and set the needle position to the left
b
c
6
b
d’
c
EjI
I III
Fig.
32
Fig.
33
Fig.
34
Place the stitch length lever at No. 1 (about 30 stitches per inch).
Start sewing at a speed slightly faster than normal and begin to move
the stitch width ]ever from 0 to 5 and back again with a rhythmic
motion.
You will with this motion produce a number of decorative effects.
Continue by moving the needle position to the center
to the right
.
.
.
and on
.
Patterns can be increased and changed by using multicolored or
variegated colored threads.
—
24
—
SATIN STITCH
This is a very tight thick stitch-any width, but very short stitch
length which is also of a decorat
ive design.
NOTE: Practice this stitching at
various regulator settings, for
it
has many uses.
Satin stitching can be used to good
Fig.
35
Fig.
36
esthetic effect on special work,
such as attaching lace and applique
work with thicker materials.
JOINING TWO PIECES OF MATERIAL
Proceed
as
for normal
zigzag
sewing, being careful to guide the
materials under the presser foot
as shown in Fig. 36.
—
25
—
_
____
____
____
____
SEWING ON BUTTONS
Place needle postion at right position.
1!
u
ll
Remove regular presser foot and insta
button sewing foot.
Fig.
37
Place material and button under
the presser foot. (Fig. 38).
Bring needle down into right-hand
hole of button.
r
Lower presser foot. (Fig. 39).
Raise needle by turning
-
Fig.
38
f
1
hand
wheel and then move stitch width
t:p:the
Make seven or eight stitches.
Fig.
39
\Vith needle lifted, bring stitch
width lever to 0.
Make four or five stitches.
For four-hole buttons see Fig. 40.
Fig.
—
26
—
40
AUTOMATIC SEWING
Your accessory kit has a box containing 24 cams and a pattern
selector dial. Each cam is numbered and has a design of the decorative
or ornamental pattern it sews automatically.
Note the cam access door on the top cover to the right of the
Pressomatic device.
Open the door by pushing the top to the back
and to the left.
Place the stitch width lever at 5.
Place the cam, with the pattern you intend to sew, flat side down
over the spindle and turn it to the left or right to allow the driving
pin to be engaged in one of the two recessed areas on the under or
flat part of the cam which has been put there for the purpose.
Close the cam door and place stitch width lever at 0.
—
27
—
MAKING BUTTONHOLES
Best results can be obtained by tightening upper tension and using
No. 50 thread on lower or bobbin tension and a heavier (No. 40)
thread for the upper or top tension.
(See Needle and Thread Chart)
(The expert will use a cord as a filler through the hole of the
presser foot which serves to reinforce the buttonhole stitching).
(1)
Replace regular presser foot
with the buttonhole presser
foot.
( 2)
Set needle position to the
left
and set stitch lever
for very short stitch.
Fig.
H
(3)
Lower the presser foot.
(4)
Set stitch width regulator
42
to No. 1.5 or 2.
Hold the thread lightly and cord
if
one is being used and
start sewing to make the left row or first track of sewing
until it reaches the length you want.
(5)
With the first row completed stop the machine with need]e at
the left, but not in the material.
(6)
Push the stitch width regulator to the right at No. 5 and bar
tack for 3 or 4 stitches, stopping with the needle at the right
in the material.
28
—
(7)
Place needle position to the right
and return stitch width
lever to No. 1.5 or 2.
(8)
(9)
Raise stitch length lever up into reverse sewing.
of stitching
Start sewing and make right row or second track
until it reaches the end of the first track.
(10)
Stop with the needle at the right.
(11)
5 and bar tack
Push the stitch width lever to the right at No.
for 3 or 4 stitches.
(12)
care not to
Remove the work and cut the buttonhole, taking
cut the stitches.
attention to
Making buttonholes requires practice and close
work is the result
the work at hand and “professional” appearing
NOTE:
of much practice.
to normal or regular
Do not neglect to return all machine settings
when buttonhole stitching is completed.
—
29
—
QUILTING
The quilting attachment will enable
you to sew parallel lines on padded
fabrics without the necessity of
marking them in advance.
Attach the quilter by pulling long
wire hook out of horse-shoe shaped
clamp.
Fig. 43
Attach the clamp on the presser bar
from behind and over the presser foot and push the wire hook into
place. Adjust the curved hook to the desired distance from the
needle and adjust it to press into the fabric, When sewing, the hook
should follow the preceding line of stitching.
The quilting attachment is available at all sewing machine stores.
EMBROIDERING WITH DARNING
SPRING AND HOOP
Fig.
It is easy to follow a stamped
design or to work free hand when
embroidering or monogramming.
Set the drop feed to darning
position, i. e. left pushbutton (B) all
the way down. Remove the presser
foot and attach a darning spring
which is provided among standard
44
accessories.
Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle.
Set the zigzag stitch width at the size you prefer and lower the
presser bar lifter.
Then operate the machine at a rather high speed while moving the
hoop slowly with both hands.
Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers out of the path of the
needle.
Best results are obtained when the darning spring is attached to the
needle clamp.
—
30
—
NARROW HEMMER
With the needle in its highest posi
tion, replace the presser foot with
the narrow hemmer (Fig. 45).
For a plain narrow hem
make a
1/’8 inch double fold for about 2
Fig.
inches along the edge of fabric.
45
Hold each end of the 2-inch fold,
and slip underneath the hemmer.
Bring
fold up into the scroll of
hemmer, draw for-ward to end and
fasten with point of the needle. Lower
the presser foot. Gently pull
the
end of thread as you start stitching.
Guide the material slightly to right,
and it will automatically take a double turn through scroll.
NOTE:
Do not crowd the material into scroll and do not leave
scroll only partly filled by the material. Feed just enough
material into the hemmer foot (Fig. 46) to fill out the scroll.
You can do zigzag hemming by adjusting the width of zigzag
seam to be as wide as the hem itself. A long stitch and
tightened upper tension will produce a shell stitch.
—
31
—
FRENCH SEAM (FELLING)
Proceed in the following manner:
1. Lay two pieces of cloth one on top of the other with their
RIGHT sides facing each other. The right edge of the bottom
piece must extend about 1/8 inch beyond the right edge of the
top piece. See (Fig. 47).
2. Sew both pieces of cloth together. Use the right edge of long
toe of hemmer foot to guide the bottom piece of material, while
the left edge of the same toe serves
as a guide for the top piece of
3.
4.
Fig.
47
FiRST ROW’
OFST,T:Es
Fig.
material. (Fig. 48).
Open and spread out material and
put back on machine right sides
down-ward. Make sewn edges of
material stand up.
Fold over the edges to the left and
insert them into the scroll of the
Sew as you would
hemmer foot.
do ordinary hemming. Use left edge
of long toe of hemmer foot as guide,
having orginal seam run alongside
.
.
48
2ND STEP
ST STEP
—
32
—
FLAT FELLED SEAM
Open out French seam and ins
ert rolled edge in scroll of hem
mer. Edge stitch to lay seam flat
(Fig. 49).
Fig.
TCP PECE
49
2ND STEP
1ST STEP
OPTEE1STR0V
Rfl\v
BOTTOME
TOP PIECE
2ND ROW
LACE TRIMMED HEM
To attach the lace to the hem, insert
the lace in the slot next to needle.
Sew hem as above, guiding lace un
der needle and hem into scroll.
Li
LJL
Fig.
(Fig. 50).
50
LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING
Hold the lace
143
inch from raw
edge on right side of fabric, insert
both in scroll as for plain narrow
hem. Let hem roll over and sew in
Fig.
51
lace.
Press lace out fiat along edge
in lace, feed it freely under
with hem turned up. For a little: fullness
scroll (Fig. 51).
33
—
ATTACHING THE ZIPPER FASTENER
This adjustable zipper foot can be
moved to th left or right side of
the needle.
It is used for sewing
zippers and cords.
CLOTH GUIDE
This
is
an
attachment
designed
as a guide for
stitching
when
making
wide hems, deep tucks or
seam
width
which
are
greater than presser foot
allows. (Fig. 53).
It is attached to machine as illustrated
34
—
use only 15X 1 needles
TYPES OF NEEDLES:
RECOMMENDED
TYPES OF FABRICS
CLASSES OF WORK
NEEDLES
AND
THREAD
SIZES
SIZES OF
NEEDLES
MercerizedSinger (Grade)
SIZE OF THREAD
Cotton
00 and 000
Twist
00
and
000
80
to
100
0
Twist
50
to
00
11
(medium fine)
60
to
80
A&B
Twist
50
14
(medium)
Heavy
Duty
16
(light-heavy)
Heavy
Duty
18
(medium
heavy)
100
Very thin fabrics like Muslin, Georgette
Chiffon, Batiste, fine Linens, Cambrics,
etc, For lingerie, infants’ wear and delicate lace work.
Light-weight Shirtingandsummertimei
Fabrics, Linens, fine Silk Goods and
Calicoes. For children’s and house dresses, washable cottoin. dresses, aprons
urtas.
Shirtings, Sheetings, Calicoes, Dress Si-i
iks and Cottons, light weight woollens,
Draperies, etc. For general household
sewing and all classes of general work.
to
150
Heavy Calicoes and Silk, light weight
Woollens, heavy Cretonnes, Madras, Mu- I
slin, Brocades and Quilts. For men’s
work shirts, smocks and aprons, quilting
I
and fabric_furnishings.
Awnid
Materials, Slip Cover Fabrics, Woollen
Goods, heavy woven Coating, light weight Canvas. For trousers, boys’ clothing,
work uniforms, awnings, slip covers and
Silk
C
Twist
to
60
30
to
40
D
Twist
[
8
to 10
(fine)
-________________
mattresses.
if)i1ngs and Woollens, hea
woven Suiting and Coating. Canvas and
Sacking. For heavy clothing in general,
such as heavy uniforms, coats, trousers,
etc., for bedding supplies, bags, etc.
24
to
30
For heavy goods, coarse cloths, Canvas,
Bags, etc.
Very
Coarse
—
35
—
E
Twist
40
to
60
19
(heavy)
40
to
60
21
(extra-heavy)
I
INCREASE YOUR SEWING PLEASURE
THREAD
1.
Select the correct size of thread for the material you are sewing.
NOTE; The right size and weight can quickly be determined by
pulling a thread from the material and matching the spool
of thread with it.
2.
Use the same kind and weight of thread for both upper and
bobbin thread.
3.
Avoid winding new thread over a partially wound bobbin.
4.
Use silk thread on woolens mercerized thread on fine cottons
and synthetics
cotton thread on heavy materials, such as
denims, work shirts, canvas, ticking, strong linens, slip covers, etc.
NOTE: Most cotton materials are preshrunk and it is wise to use
preshrunk thread when sewing on preshrunk materials for
the thread may shrink when laundered, causing the seam
to pucker.
5.
Bright colored thread is weaker than white or neutral colors.
Allow for this and use slightly larger thread size.
Proper attention to the selection of proper thread weight or size will
cause the stitches to “blend” into the material.
-36-
NEEDLE
The cost is
hed needles.
Always use highly polished chrome finis
manship is better.
approximately the same and the work
mes dull and blunt due to
Change needles often, for the point beco
needle pierces the material
the many thousands of times that the
have a magnifying glass,
when a dress or suit is being made. If you
it into your machine and
examine each new needle before putting
blunted or broken point,
look for (1) sharp edges around the eye, (2)
Lay the needle on a flat
and (3) a bent or “fish-hook” point.
surface to be sure it is not bent or curved.
d. If the needle is too
Choose the correct needle for the size of threa
or if the
rations.
large the seam will appear to be a row of perfo
of the material and
needle is too small the thread will lay on top
rrect. Consult the needle
the tension settings will appear to be inco
thread sizes.
and thread guide for the correct needle and
37
STITCH LENGTH
There are correct needle and thread sizes for materials
and there
is also a correct stitch length.
A simple rule to follow is (1) short stitches for light or sheer
materials, (2) medium stitch length for medium materials, and (3)
long stitches for heavy materials.
For best results—after selecting the correct thread and installing the
right needle—practice stitching on a sample of the material by experi
menting with the stitch length until you have found the length that
The stitch length governs or controls the pace at which the material
moves under the presser foot, and when the correct length is longer
than average, more satisfactory work will be performed by operating
the machine at slower speeds.
Do not pull on the material, for it will cause uneven stitch lengths
‘bend or break the needle’ “break the thread,
The sewing machine is designed to release the correct amount of
thread in relation to the movement of the feed mechanism.
—
38
—
SEWING SPEED
d laster than you can correctly
Do not operate the machine at a spee
properly align it for feeding
and properly assemble the material and
under the presser foot.
ble the material and again sew
Sew for a few inches and stop assem
this way. You will avoid
for a few inches and stop and continue
rfect seams and resewing.
mistakes and eliminate ripping out impe
.
AVOID MINOR TROUBLES
ections by a competent mechanic
It is advisable to have periodic insp
and long life of the machine.
in order to insure perfect operation
ce take—or send—the old one
If you are buying a new part or devi
tly.
and request that it be duplicated exac
or accessory take—or send—a
If you are buying a new attachment
the new one is manufactured
sample from your box to be sure that
ine.
for and can be attached to your mach
39
—
OW3W