OCCUPATIONAL SKILLS DEVELOPMENT
SHORT COURSE
For
Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector
GARMENT PRODUCTION
Learning to Sew
TH007ii
RATIONALE
This short course was developed as a resource material for the trainer. This
module is one in a series of nine, which covers all competences standard in using
the tools and supplies in level one Garment Production. Due to the demand STRU
has developed this short course for the community and other stake holder to have
better knowledge and skills in handling the sewing equipment. Furthermore the
course aim is to create a link for training those unskilled people in the community
to have the opportunity to learn the basic skills in use of the tools and supplies.
p o box 1097, waigani
national capital district
papua new guinea.
tel: (675) 323 2633
fax: (675) 323 0944
NOT FOR SALE
The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and
produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT
(STRU)
Learning to Sew
TABLE OF CONTENT
CONTENTS
PAGES
Course Outline
2
Competency Profile
3–4
• Learning to sew
Curriculum Guide
Overview of Learning Outcomes
5
6–7
• Define sewing
• Tools and supplies
• Sewing machine
• Sewing area
Appendix 5
7 – 14
• Instructional notes
Attachments
14 – 15
• Process of sewing
Acknowledgement
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
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1
Learning to Sew
COURSE OUTLINE: Learning to sew
Program:
TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY
Course:
GARMENT PRODUCTION
Module code: TH007ii
Module name:
Learning to sew
Module1:
Workplace Health and
Safety
Module 2:
Learning to Sew
Module 3:
Basic Hand Stitches
Module 4:
Decorative Stitches
Module 5:
Seams
Module 6:
Types of Fullness
Module 7:
Types of Attachments
Module 8:
Types of Hems
Module 9:
Types of Fasteners
2
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
COMPETENCY PROFILE: Learning to sew
Duty
Task
A. Workplace
Health and
Safety
A1. Safety regulations
A2. Hazard/risk
A3. Contingency
measures
B. Introduction
to Sewing
B1. Define sewing
B2. Identify tools and
supplies
B3. Sewing machine
operation
C1. Tacking stitch
C2. Running stitch
C3. Back stitch
C4. Slip stitch
C5. Overcasting stitch
C6. Blanket stitch
D1. Chain stitch
D2. Stem stitch
D3. Satin stitch
D4. Scross stitch
D5. Herringbone stitch
D6. Lazy daisy stitch
D7. French knot stitch
D8. Cretan stitch
E. Types of
Seams
E1. Open seam
E2. French seam
E3. Flat seam
F. Types of
Fullness
F1. Construct darts
F2. Sew gathering
F3. Sew pleats
[NECESSITIES
SEWING]
OF
B4. Sewing area
C. Basic Hand
Stitches
[BASIC CONSTRUCTION
TECHNIQUES]
D. Types of
Decorative
Stitches
F4. Sew tucks
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
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Learning to Sew
COMPETENCY PROFILE: Learning to sew
Duties
G. Types of
Attachments
Task
G1. Attach facing
G2. Attach pocket
G3. Attach collar
G4. Attach sleeve
G5. Attach cuffs
G6. Attach placket
H. Types of
Hems
H1. Sew a turned upedge
H2. Sew a faced edge
H3. Sew an enclosed
edge
I.
I1. Attach hooks and
eyes for overlap,
just meet and
exposed edges
I2. Sew snaps for
overlap, just meet
edges and may
show
I3. Sew snaps
I4. Sew self gripping
fasteners
I5. Make decorative
fasteners
I6. Attach zipper
Types of
Fasteners
I7. Make buttons and
buttonholes
4
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
CURRICULUM GUIDE
Program:
TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY
Course:
GARMENT PRODUCTION
Module code:
TH007ii
Module name:
Learning to sew
Module purpose:
The purpose of the module is to orient and equip participants with
essential skills and knowledge in sewing.
Nominal duration:
The module will take approximately seven hours.
Prerequisites:
There are no pre-requisites for this module.
Content:
B1. Define sewing
B2. Tools and supplies
B3. Sewing machine operation
B4. Sewing area
Suggested delivery method:
This module should be delivered using these methods:
1.
Explanation (what we will do) 5%
2.
Demonstration (how we will do it) 15%
3.
Implementation (now you do it) 70%
4.
Evaluation (how good did we do it) 10%
Instructor:
The trainer preferred will be a recognized trainer from the community
or a trained vocational teacher who has sewing skill.
Resource requirement:
Teaching notes, charts.
Assessment method:
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner through:
• Short aswer
• Oral questions and observation
• Practical application
Assessment condition:
In a classroom or a training hall with proper:
Reference:
•
Lighting, ventilation
•
Tables and chairs
•
Sewing tool and equipment
1. Complete Guide to Sewing – The Readers Digest Association - 1976
2. Complete Book of Handcrafts – Susie Ting -1991
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
5
Learning to Sew
Overview of Learning Outcome and Assessment
Criteria:
On successfully completion of the course the
participants will be able to:
B1. Define sewing.
B2. Identify tools and supplies used in sewing.
B3. Use the sewing machine using correct
procedures.
B4. Set up the sewing area to suit your need.
APPENDIX 1: Training and Assessment Guide
(Learning Outcome).
Task B1:
Introduction to sewing.
APPENDIX 2: Training and Assessment Guide
(Learning Outcome).
Task B2:
Tools and supplies.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 2 hours
Learning outcome B2.1:
• Identify tools and supplies used in sewing.
Teaching strategy:
Learning activities for the participants must
include the instructor to;
2.1 Identify sewing tools and supplies.
2.2 Identify and explain functions of different
tools and supplies.
2.3 Demonstrate use of different tools and
supplies.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour
Learning outcome B1.1:
• Define sewing.
Teaching strategy:
Learning activities for the participants must
include the instructor to;
1.1 Explain what is sewing.
1.2 Identify the importance of sewing.
1.3 Identify sewing terms.
Assessment condition:
In a classroom situation or a training hall where
the participants are provided with;
• Teaching notes
• Sample of fashions and designs
Assessment criteria:
The participants have;
1.1.1 Defined what is sewing.
1.1.2 Outlined the importance of sewing.
1.1.3 Used sewing terms correctly in given
situations.
Assessment method:
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
through;
• Observation
• Oral questioning
• Short answer questions
Assessment condition:
In a classroom situation or a training hall where
the participants are provided with;
• Teaching notes
• Sewing tools and supplies
Assessment criteria:
The participant has;
2.2.1 Named sewing tools and supplies.
2.2.2 Listed the functions of different tools and
supplies.
2.2.3 Practiced use of different tools and supplies.
Assessment method:
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
through;
• Observation
• Oral questioning
• Short answer questions
APPENDIX 3: Training and Assessment Guide
(Learning Outcome).
Task B3:
Sewing machine operation.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 3 hours
Learning outcome B3.1:
• Operate the sewing machine using correct
procedures.
Teaching strategy:
Learning activities for the participants must
include the instructor to;
3.1 Identify types of sewing machine.
3.2 Identify parts and functions.
3.3 Explain the operation process of using the
sewing machine.
6
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
3.4 Identify machine needle and inserting.
3.5 Demonstrate threading and winding the
bobbin.
3.6 Demonstrate threading the machine.
3.7 Identify basic trouble shooting problems.
Assessment condition:
In a classroom situation or a training hall where
the participants are provided with;
• Teaching notes
• Sewing tools and supplies
• Charts
• Sewing machine
Assessment criteria:
The participant has;
3.1.1 Listed types of sewing machines.
3.2.2 Labelled parts and functions of the sewing
machine.
3.3.3 Used the sewing machine following the
correct operation process.
3.4.4 Inserted the needle following the correct
procedure.
3.5.5 Threaded and wound the bobbin.
3.6.6 Threaded the machine.
3.7.7 Outlined basic trouble shooting problems.
Assessment method:
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
through;
• Observation
• Demonstration
• Practical activity
APPENDIX 4: Training and Assessment Guide
(Learning Outcome).
Task B4:
Set up sewing area.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour
Learning outcome B4.1:
• Set up the sewing area to suit your need.
Teaching strategy:
Learning activities for the participants must
include the instructor to;
4.1 Identify the set-up area.
4.2 Plan the style to use to set up.
Assessment condition:
In a classroom situation or a training hall where
the participants are provided with;
• Teaching notes
• Sewing tools
• Charts
Assessment criteria:
The participants have;
4.3.1 Outlined the area for set-up.
4.3.2 Set-up the layout.
Assessment method:
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
through;
• Observation
• Practical demonstration
• Practical application
APPENDIX 5: Instructional Notes
INTRODUCTION
B1: Definition of sewing
Sewing is a craft involving the stitching of cloth
or other materials, using needle and thread.
Sewing is used primarily to produce clothing and
household furnishing as curtains, bedclothes,
upholstery, and table linens. It is also used for
sails, below, skin boats and other items shaped
out of flexible materials such as canvas and
leather.
Most sewing in the industrial world is done by
machines. Pieces of a garment are often firstly
tacked together.
Some people sew clothes for themselves and
their families. More often home sewers sew to
repair clothes, such as mending a torn seam or
replacing a loose button. A person who sews for
a living is known as a seamstress, dressmaker
tailor, or garment worker.
“Plain” sewing is done for functional reasons:
making or mending clothing or household linens.
“Fancy” sewing is primarily decorative, including
techniques such as shirring, smocking,
embroidery, or quilting
Sewing is the foundation for many needle arts
and crafts, such as appliqué, canvas work, and
patchwork.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
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Learning to Sew
SEWING TERMS
Special terms are often used in directions for
making up a garment. Some apply to fabrics and
the way to cut them; others apply to methods of
sewing. It is a help to know what they mean.
Words
Definition
Absorbant
Fabric that has the capability to
absorb moisture.
Alteration
Making changes to a pattern to
provide a better fit or a garment
after it is made.
Batting
Fiberfill, cotton, wool, or other
material that is flatten and usually
on a roll and purchased in precut
lengths or by yard.
Bias
Bias tape
Binding
Blade
Bleeding
Bolt
Butting
Casing
Colour fast
8
Runs diagonally to the straight
grain of the fabric. This is the
stretchiest part on the fabric.
Strips of fabric cut on bias, often
turned under and pressed, and
used for binding, facings, or other
application where there is a need
for stretch or accommodation to
curve. Often found finishing
edges of a blanket or quilt. (see
binding below).
Encasing the raw edges of a
blanket or quilt with another
piece of fabric. Binding also refers
to the fabric that is folded and
used for encasing of the raw
edges. (blanket, quilt, seam etc).
The round, razor sharp portion of
a rotary cutter. Also the cutter
used on a serger.
Colour seeping out of fabric in the
wash, when wearing (sometimes
colour will transfer to the body or
to a lighter fabric worn underneath
the bleeding fabric). Be sure and
wash fabric that bleeds with like
colours or by itself.
A large roll of fabric which can be
on a tubular roll or a rectangular
form. Fabric usually folded right
sides together lengthwise on a
bolt.
Bring to edges together so they
touch but do not overlap.
Fabric envelope of sorts for
encasing elastic, a drawstring, or
similar material, usually along a
waistline, cuff and hem.
Words
Definition
Cording
A twisted or woven “rope” or
string that is used primarily in
piping and to act as a drawstring
in a waistband, or sterilizer for
frog closures.
Cutting line
On a pattern, the outmost dart
line is the line upon which you
cut.
Dart
A v shape, tapered adjustment to a
pattern to allow for more fullness
in the bust area or less fullness in
other areas.
Facing
Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a
garment pieces that is turned
under and serves as a finish for
the edge as well.
Foldline
This is the actual fold of the fabric
off the bolt or a fold of your own
creation.
Gathering
Making a long piece of fabric to
fit with a shorter piece of fabric.
Overlock
An overcast stitch to prevent
raveling of fabric.
Pleat
A fold in fabric that is either
inverted of folded outward.
Press
Using an iron in a press/pick
up/move/press pattern.
Prewash
Washing fabric before using it for
a garment or project to allow for
any color bleeding.
Raw edge
The edge of a fabric is not stitched
of finished.
Right side
The right side of the fabric is the
design side.
Seam
The result of when two pieces of
fabrics are sewn together along a
line.
Selvedge
The edge of the fabric which
generally does not fray due to
manufactures’ finish.
Underlining
Lining used to add body to a
garment.
Warp
Threads running the length of a
woven fabric, sometimes known
as the lengthwise grain.
Weft
Threads running at right angles to the
length of a woven fabric, sometimes
known as the cross grain.
Weft
A method of covering the raw
edges of a pocket or other
opening, can be single or doubles.
Wrongside
Wrongside The wrong side of the
fabric is the side upon which
there is no design.
Holds colour even when in a wash.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
B2: Sewing tools and equipment
SEWING TOOLS
MEASURING DEVICES
•
•
•
•
•
•
Tape measure is essential for taking body
measurements. Best tape choice is flexible
synthetic or fibre glass, which will not tear or
stretch: 60” length with both measurements
on both sides.
Yardstick is best device for taking long,
straight measurements. Good also for
checking grainlines, making hems. Be sure
surface of wood is smooth.
T-square is useful for locating edges cross
edges. Altering patterns; squaring off
straightedges. Best type is transparent with
easy-to-read markings.
Dress makers gauge measures different size
scallops; straight side will measure
buttonholes, pleats and tucks.
French curve it is useful when re-drawing
construction lines on patterns, especially in
curve areas, such as armholes, necklines and
princess seams.
Sewing gauge is a 6” ruler with a sliding
marker that adjusts to desired measurement,
keeps it constant when marking. Ideal for
hems, tucks, pleats or button holes.
Chalk-filled pencil, makes
temporary marks on fabric.
SHEARS
•
•
•
•
Handle & metal wheel wtih
teeth, used with tracing.
AND SCISSORS
Pinking shears cut zigzag, raven resistant edge.
Excellent for finishing seams and raw edges on
many types of fabric, also for decorative use.
Should not be used to cut out patterns.
Scalloping shears work like pinking shears but
cut more ravel-resistant edge-each round edge
becomes bias.
Embroidery scissors, useful as well for general
needlework, ripping, clipping and buttonholes.
Sewing scissors come in 5” and 6” lengths.
One blunt point prevents the snagging of
fabric when trimming.
1. Heavy Duty cutting of fabric.
One handle larger than the
other.
2. Used to trim threads. Two
handles same size.
3. Cuts a zig-zag edge
to prevent raveling.
Makes a seam finish.
SEWING SUPPLIES
•
6” Long with slide, helps you
mark a hem or smaller amounts.
60” Long, takes pattern or
body measurements.
Threads a long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, or
other fibres used in sewing. Select thread
according to purpose. Use thread one shade
darker than the fabric, for a print or plain use a
dominant colour.
MARKING DEVICES
•
•
Chalk in pencil form is used like any pencil;
makes a thin, accurate line, fine for making
pleats, buttonholes, and similar details. Chalk
colours include white and pastel shades.
Tracing wheels are used with dressmaker’s
tracing paper to transfer pattern markings to
fabric. Usual choice is serrated edge wheel,
suitable for most fabrics. Smooth-edged wheel
makes firmer markings on hard-to-mark
fabrics, protects delicate, smooth ones.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
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Learning to Sew
•
Straight pins to hold pieces of two fabrics
together, comes in several lengths and
thicknesses. Generally, the longer the pin, the
thicker it is. Standard lengths for dress making
is 1/6th , this type known as seamstress or silk
pins, is suitable for light-weight fabrics.
Other types of needles
Needle craft Darning
Heavy Duty
Crewels
Cotton darners
Clovers
Chenille
Double longs
Sailmakers
Tapestry
Yarn darners
Curved needles
Beading
Used to hold pattern to fabric or 2 layers of fabric.
Must lay flat on fabric.
Different sizes and lengths. Used to sew by hand.
•
Machine needles are selected according to
weight and other fabric characteristics, as well
as the thread type being used.
Ø Needle sizes range from fine (size 9) for
lighter weight fabrics to heavy (size 18) for
very heavy ones.
Flat pin
Coloured ball pin
T-pin
Metals of which straight pins are made;
Ø Brass: Soft metal, does not rust, usually nickelplated, retains sharp point for a long time.
Ø Steel: Sturdy metal, can rust, usually nickelplated, least expensive, can be picked up
magnetically.
Ø Stainless steel: Strong metal, does not rust,
can also be picked up magnetically.
* nickel plating sometimes leaves a black mark
on fabric (discard all rusty pins).
•
Ø Sizes 11 and 14 are used most often for
general sewing. Most of the needles sold
are made in a standard length that fits most
modern machines.
Ø Always replace dulled, bent, burred, or
nicked needles; they can damage fabric.
Shank
Flat
side
Round
side
Shaft
Hand needle is a long, slender, object with a
pointed tip. Many types of needles are made
for hand sewing, each for specific purpose.
Type and size required varies according to the
work to be done and the fabric use.
Groove
Scarf
Point
Side
General hand sewing
Ø Sharps: (sizes 1-12) a needle of average length
with a round eye, used for general sewing.
Ø Betweens: (sizes 1-12) short needles with
round eyes; generally used for tailoring.
Ø Ball-points; (sizes 5-10) resembles sharps
except for the point, which is rounded to
penetrate between knit yarns.
Eye
Front
Point
Front view
Top
Shaft
Groove
Eye
Round side
Side view
Flat side
10
Top
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Eye
Learning to Sew
•
Sewing aids: Samples of such sewing aids are
listed here. In buying sewing tools and supplies,
it is wise to begin with a few basic ones,
purchasing more as the need arises. In addition
to aids some common household items can be
used for sewing jobs.
Bobbins are spool-like thread holders that supply
bottom thread for machinesewing. Made of plastic
or metal, they come in different types to fit
specific machines.
Ø Bobbins are spool-like thread holders that
supply bottom thread for machine sewing.
Ø Bobbin case holds the bobbin
Ø Thimble protects middle finger while hand
sewing, Comes in sizes 6 (small) to 12
(large) for snug fit.
Ø Seam ripper has sharp, curved edge for
cutting seams open and a point for picking
out thread. Use ripper carefully to avoid
accidental cutting of fabric.
Ø Bodkin is tool shaped like along, blunt
needle and used for threading elastic or
cord through a casting.
Ø Pin cushion is a safe, handy place to store
pins or needles with their heads protruding
so as to take hold of them easily, keep them
accessible.
A loop turner is a specially designed tool with a
latch-hook device at one end. It is used to turn
tubing or bias cording to the right side. (2)
A bias tape maker with the aid of an iron makes
single-fold bias tape. Bias tape makers are
available in _” to 2” (6 mm to 50 mm) sizes. (5)
A pointer and creaser is a flat wooden tool
approximately 4” (10 cm) long. One end is
pointed, the other is rounded. The pointed end is
used for pushing out small corners; the rounded
end is used in conjunction with an iron to flatten
seamlines or to assist finger pressing. (4)
• Sewing equipment
Ø Sleeve board flat ironing surfaces on which
seams and details of narrow garments
section (sleeve and pants legs) can be
easily pressed.
Stores pins, filled with sawdust which sharpens
pins.
Ø Iron is a tool that is used to straighten or
press fabric. The iron can be used with or
without steam. It is a important tool for the
sewing.
Takes out sewing mistakes.
Protects your finger when hand sewing.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
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Learning to Sew
B3: Sewing machine operation
TYPES
OF
SEWING MACHINES
Parts and Functions of Sewing Machine
Models of sewing machine may differ, but their
fundamental features are remarkably similar.
There are different types of Sewing machines
used in the country. The sewing machines listed
below are in use.
• Manual hand sewing, manually operated
commonly used in parts of the country.
• Treadle sewing machine, manually operated
by paddling with foot, controlled by a machine
belt.
• Electrical sewing machine electricity operated
machine used for lightweight sewing.
• Heavy duty sewing machine used for sewing
heavy duty garments.
• Overlocker sewing machine neatening sides of
sewn seam (edging machine).
NO
12
10
11
7
8
14
9
12
3
2
4
6
1
13
5
15
16
PART
FUNCTION
1
Power stitch
Connects to power.
2
Presser foot
When lowered (using a lever on the back of the machine), this
holds the fabric in place.
3
Presser foot lifter
Lift to release fabric after sewn.
4
Throat plate
The all-purpose one is the zigzag plate, with an opening wide
enough for the needle to move back and forth.
5
Feed dogs
Grips the fabric as you sew.
6
Needle clamp
This holds the needle in place.
7
Take-up lever
The top thread passes through the take-up lever, which moves up
and down in coordination with the needle.
8
Upper tension
This controls the tension on the top thread. With proper tension,
the regulator top. thread and bobbin thread join together in
uniform stitches. If the tension is set too tight, the stitch will pucker
and break. Increase the tension if the stitches are weak and loose.
9
Thread guide
From the spool, thread first passes through here.
10
Spool pin
These hold the thread.
11
Bobbin winder
The small spool is placed upon this while the bobbin is being filled.
12
Handwheel/
balance wheel
This raises and lowers the needle manually.
13
Stitch-length
Use medium-length stitches for general sewing; shorter stitches
for regulator fine fabrics; longer stitches for heavier fabrics, basting,
and gathering.
14
Stitch-width regulator
This determines the width of zigzag stitches.
15
Bobbin case/bobbin
Holds the bobbin.
16
Foot control
Controls the movement of needle.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
TO
INSERT A MACHINE NEEDLE
1. Loosen the needle clam screw.
2. Push needle up into clamp as far as possible,
with the flat side of the shank facing away
from you and the groove of the needle facing
toward the last thread guide.
3. Tighten needle clamp screw. (this procedure is
correct for most machines but it is wiser to
check the instruction books that accompanies
your machine).
4. To remove a needle, reverse the insertion
process.
UPPER
THREADING
1. Place thread on the spool pin. Take hold of
thread end.
2. Pass thread and through first thread guide
3. Bring thread down toward the tension
assembly
4. Pass thread under and around tension discs,
taking care that it falls between two if the
discs.
5. Pull thread upward and then let it go slack.
This allows thread to be caught by the hook
and thread check spring, which hold thread in
position between tension disc.
6. Bring thread up and behind next thread guide.
7. Pass thread into take-up lever.
8. Bring thread down and through thread guides
9. Pass thread end through eye of the needle,
being sure that it goes in proper direction for
machine. Pull at least 3” of thread through
needle.
1
2
PROCESS
7
OF USING THE SEWING MACHINE
1. Prepared plain exercise paper with ruled line.
2. Set up the hand sewing machine with the
machine needle attached (without the thread).
3. Lift the pressure foot at the back of the needle
bar.
4. Place the plain paper under the pressure foot
over the feed dog.
5. Bring the pressure foot down; it should hold
the paper firmly against the feed dog.
6. Turn the handle slowing, your eye focusing on
the paper and the needle, once your
concentration is focused, gradually increase
the speed .
7. Sew; follow the ruled line on the paper until
you familiarized yourself in handling the
sewing machine.
Note: See attachment
3
6
5
4
8
9
THREAD
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
AND WIND THE BOBBIN
Place thread on the spool pin.
Bring thread to the thread guide.
Down to the thread guide (where the tension is).
Across to tension spring.
Roll around bobbin.
Loosen nut where the wheel is.
Run the machine to wind the bobbin.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
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Learning to Sew
BASIC
TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEMS IN THE PROCESS OF SEWING
PROBLEM
SOLUTION
Needle is incorrectly inserted
Carefully re-insert needles
Needle is wrong size
Select needle of the proper conformation and size, and
insert.
Needle is damaged or dirty
Replace with a perfect needle
Trouble in stitching or unevenness in
stitching (uneven winding of bobbin)
Bobbin must be evenly wind
Loose stitches on the top
Adjust the bobbin case (tighten or loosen nut) or the
thread the bobbin case correctly
Loose stitches at the bottom
Thread the machine properly
Thread breaks while sewing
(wrong thread used)
Adjust the tension, thread machine correctly or use
correct thread
ATTACHMENTS
B4: Sewing area
ANATOMY
Find a space in the home to spare for your
sewing to take place. The sewing necessities are
actually very few, and can be accommodated in a
relatively small area.
To function efficiently, all items should be at a
convenient place where they can be reached
easily.
To set-up a sewing area specific items needed to
place in the sewing area:
• Work table: To set up the sewing machine,
making sure that the table is stable and strong,
about 30 inches high, approximately 18 to 20
inches from front to back and 35 – 40 inches
wide.
• Chair: Comfortable chair cushion seat, so no
body part gets all the pressure.
• Cupboard: To store all sewing tools and
supplies, a cupboard with different drawers for
specific items.
OF A NEEDLE
The key features of a standard machine needle
are called out below. Their configuration varies
from needle type to type.
Shank
Top of needle that inserts into machine; most
often has round front and flat back, which seats
needle in right position.
Shaft
Body of needle below shank. Shaft thickness
determines needle size.
Front groove
Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to
"cradle" thread for smooth stitches.
Point
Needle tip that penetrates fabric to pass thread to
bobbin-hook and form stitch. Shape of point
varies among needle types.
Scarf
Indentation at back of needle. A long scarf helps
eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin
hook to loop thread more easily. A shorter scarf
requires a more perfectly timed machine.
Eye
Hole in end of needle through which thread
passes. Needle size and type determine size and
shape of eye.
14
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
SEWING MACHINE
SAFETY RULES
Operation Safety Precautions
v Make sure all other participants/trainees keep
away from the immediate work area at all
times.
Safety is very important in Sewing. To make sure
that everyone can learn and have fun in a safe
environment, keep the following rules in mind:
1. ALWAYS: Place your coats, books and bags in
separate places, away from your sewing area.
2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing
class. You do not want to accidentally step on
a pin or needle.
3. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric before
cutting with scissors and carry scissors with
the sharp edge pointing towards the floor.
When the scissors are not being used, place
them on the cutting table, sewing table, or in
your sewing box.
4. ALWAYS: Measure the thread to the length of
your arm.
5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with caution
before starting to sewing on your fabric.
6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabric
as you sew and place them in the pin cushion
after you use them. NEVER put straight pins
or needles in your mouth.
7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the upright
position after use. When using the iron hold
it by the handle only.
8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help you
use the seam ripper (unpicker).
9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler,
scissors and pins in the sewing box after
using them.
10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher’s/trainer’s
instructions.
v Remove the cover from the sewing machine
and replace it on the back of the chair before
use.
v One person only is to operate a sewing
machine at anytime.
v Do not touch a sewing machine whilst another
person is operating it
v Turn the power off when making adjustments
to the sewing machine.
v Examples include changing the pressure foot
and the needle.
v Never raise the sewing machine at high speed.
v Take care not to machine over pins.
v Make sure the take-up lever is in the upper
most position before pulling out the fabric and
cutting threads.
MAINTENANCE
Oiling
v Keep the sewing machine well oiled. Oil it
every 8 -10 hours of actual sewing or once a
month or when you are sewing after the
machine has not been used for a few months.
Be sure not to over oil. After oiling, sew a few
stitches on a small swatch of fabric to observe
any excess before beginning your project.
Cleaning
v Along with oiling; it is important to keep the
machine as free of lint (fine fibres which
separate from cloth or yarn during processing)
as possible. Remove needle plate to clean lint
from the feed dogs, under the needle plate,
and in the shuttle area of the bobbin. Do not
use “canned air’ to clean your machine as this
may push debris further into the machine.
Shining
v Wipe the surface of the machine with a clean
soft, damp cloth. Do not use abrasives on your
machine and do not place pieces of tape on it.
Seam guides can be purchased from the shops
or the dealer. Clean the LMD screen with a
soft, damp cloth and never use alcohol or
solvent on the machine.
Storage
v Avoid exposing the sewing machine to extreme
temperatures. Do not store it in a room that is
cold, hot or humid. Cover the machine when
not in use to keep and lint to a minimum.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
15
Learning to Sew
Acknowledgement
This short course module, developed in Papua New Guinea, is based on the competency-based training
model.
The Skill Training Resource Unit (STRU) of Employment Oriented Skills Development Project (EOSDP)
in conjunction with Department (TVET) division and the implementing agency Department for
Community Development Services wish to express their thanks to the people who have contributed in
producing the module.
We hope it will provide basic knowledge and skills for the informal and the formal sectors especially the
women, men and the youth to be employed or self-employed through having better skills for tomorrow.
16
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
p o box 1097, waigani
national capital district
papua new guinea.
tel: (675) 323 2633
fax: (675) 323 0944
The development of this short course was
sponsored by the ADB-PNG
EMPLOYMENT SKILLS DEVELOPMENT
PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by
curriculum officers at the SKILLS
TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)