ENGLISH
FABRIC CUTTING LAYOUTS
4052
Indicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurements
refer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement +
Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust Pattern if necessary.
Page 1 (5 pages)
S/L
60" (150 cm) *
AS/TT
1
All layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics with nap,
pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NAP layout.
S/L
8
18
S/L
Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, 5/8" (15mm) SEAM
ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWING
INFORMATION for seam allowance.
Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts show
approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightly according to your pattern size.
20 21
60" (150 cm) *
AS/TT
9
15
19
6
14
2
16
17
17
F/P
F/P
SEWING INFORMATION
DRESS AND HAT B
PIECES: 1,2,3,4,5,8,9,10,11,12 & 13
5/8" (1.5cm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED,
(unless otherwise indicated)
45" (115 cm) *
AS/TT
ILLUSTRATION SHADING KEY
13
4
S/L
S/L
8
2
2
Right Side
Wrong Side
Interfacing
Lining
Underlining
9
S/L
10
3
5
11
1
F/P
Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwise
instructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat.
F/P
12
Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows...
SINGLE THICKNESS—Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place
pile side down.)
4
60" (150 cm) *
AS/TT
8
11
DOUBLE THICKNESS
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
S/L
2
2
1
9
GLOSSARY
3
3
5
4
7
DOUBLE-STITCH-Stitch seam along seamline; stitch again 1/4” (6mm)
away in seam allowance using a straight stitch OR zigzag stitch; trim close
to second stitching OR overlock seam.
(Yoke, Sleeves, Hat Overlays,Overskirt)
PIECES: 1,2,3,5,8,9 & 11
45" (115 cm) **
S/T
S/P
FOLD—Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric.
NEVER cut on this line.
8
1
11
2
2
11
12
10
11
15
16
5
21
DRESS A, B, JUMPSUIT C
AND HAT A, B, C
1 YOKE FRONT A,B
NOTE: Broken-line boxes ( a! b !c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut by
measurements provided.
15 BODICE FRONT C
DRESS AND HAT A
17 BODICE BACK C
3 SKIRT BACK A,B
4 PLACKET A,B
45" (115 cm) *
AS/TT
19 SLEEVE C
5 SKIRT FRONT A,B
2
2
6
8 CROWN A,B,C
REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions,
using small machine stitches.
5
F/P
F/P
S/L
8
3
11
5
9
22 GUIDE FOR BUTTONHOLES C
4
60" (150 cm) *
AS/TT
1
6
9
S/L
2
1
S/L
2
6
9
8
10 NECK BINDING B
2
F/P
1
F/P
60" (150 cm) **
S/T
M-L-XL
S/L
8
11
9
11
3
1
S/L
F/P
5
2
13 BINDING B
45" (115 cm) *
AS/TT
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Preemie
to 7 lbs
to 17 ins
Taille
Avant Terme
Poids
3.5kg. max
Hauteur 43cm. max
Newborn
8-12
18-24
Nouveau-né
4-6
46-61
INFANTS'
Small
Medium
13-17
18-21
25-26
27-28
BEBE
Petite
Moyenne
6-8
8-10
64-66
69-71
Grande
10-11
74-76
X-Large
26-29
31-32
T.grande
12-13
79-81
F/P
(Yoke, Sleeves Overlays) PIECES: 1,2 & 6
S/L
2
1
JUMPSUIT AND HAT C
PIECES: 8,9,14,15,16,17,18,19,20 &
21
6
Large
22-25
29-30
With right sides up, pin CONTRASTING OVERLAY to one YOKE FRONT (1),
two YOKE BACK (2) and two SLEEVE (6) sections. Machine-baste just
inside the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowances. (Remaining sections will be used
as linings).
5
12 SLEEVE BAND B
CONTRAST A
DRESS A
Contrasting Overlay
11 SLEEVE B
3
STAYSTITCH-Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually
1/2” (13mm) from raw edge).
UNDERSTITCH-Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to seam
allowance close to seam.
11
5
3
9 BACK A,B,C
Size
Weight
Height
SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of
underneath fabric.
6
21 LEG BAND C
7 GUIDE FOR BUTTONHOLES A,B
2
S/L
8
20 SLEEVE BAND C
6 SLEEVE A
PIECES: 1,2,3,4,5,6,8 & 9
4
18 PANTS BACK C
S/L
60" (150 cm) **
S/T
S/P
16 FRONT BAND C
2 YOKE BACK A,B
9
3
Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue. (Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.)
14 PANTS FRONT C
8
1
11
NARROW HEM-Turn in hem; press, easing in fullness if necessary. Open
out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along crease; press. Turn in along
crease; stitch.
S/L
S/L
Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long,
even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward.
22
GATHER-Stitch along seamline and again 1/4” (6mm) away In seam
allowance, using long machine stitches. Pull thread ends when adjusting
to fit.
45" (115 cm) **
S/T
M/M-L/G-XL/Tg
20
18
EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam.
F/P
Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut
this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer.
19
17
NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4”
(6mm) away in seam allowance. for more control.
S/L
3
• Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut
this piece (A). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, as
shown (B).
14
13
EASESTITCH-Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Pull
thread ends when adjusting to fit.
S/L
9
When pattern piece is shown like this...
9
Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are
explained below.
CONTRAST B
2
8
5
F/P
GRAINLINE—Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping line parallel to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows should
point in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows point
in direction of pile.)
6
F/P
Clip
inner
curves
12
10
1
Notch
outer
curves
13
WITH FOLD—Fold fabric right sides together.
WITHOUT FOLD—With right sides together, fold fabric
CROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (A). Keeping right sides together, turn upper layer completely around
so nap runs in the same direction as lower layer.
Trim corners
45" (115 cm) *
AS/TT
S/L
8
17
9
17
15
14
19
18
20 21 16
F/P
When stitching, handle the two layers as one.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2003. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.
ENGLISH
4052
Page 2 (5 pages)
Yoke and Yoke Lining
Stitch yoke front to yoke back
at shoulders, right sides
together.
Open out slashed edges of back.
Baste right side of placket to
wrong side of skirt back, placing
reinforcement stitching on back
along the 1/4” (6mm) seam
allowance on lap. Stitch. Press
seam allowances toward placket.
With right sides together, pin 3/4” (2cm) wide
trim to lower edge of sleeve, having straight
edge just inside the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam
allowance and turning under ends at seam.
Baste.
On outside, EDGESTITCH over previous stitching.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Cut ends of ribbon diagonally.
Stitch seam in sleeve LINING.
Turn pressed-under edge of
placket to outside over seam
and SLIPSTITCH. Press.
Buttonholes and Buttons:
On inside, bring edges of placket together.
Stitch diagonally across lower end of placket.
With right sides together, pin
3/4” (2cm) wide trim to neck
edge, having straight edge just
inside the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam
allowance, allowing extra fullness along curves and turning
under ends 5/8” (1.5cm) from
back edges. Baste.
Place GUIDE FOR BUTTONHOLES (7) on
left yoke back, having edges of tissue even
with back edges of yoke. Transfer markings.
Starting at one front corner, with right sides up, pin double
edge scalloped trim to outer edges of hat, having one long
edge extending just over finished edges, folding in fullness
diagonally at corners, forming miter and turning under end
diagonally and lapping over starting point. Hand-sew or
stitch in place.
SLIPSTITCH miter and ends of lace together.
Make buttonholes in left yoke back at
markings.
UNDERSTITCH lining.
Turn left edge of placket to inside.
Press.
Stitch skirt back to SKIRT FRONT (5) at sides.
Turn lining to inside, turning sleeve
trim downward. Press.
Lap left yoke back over right, matching
centers. Mark and sew buttons under
buttonholes.
Baste raw edges together.
GATHER cap of sleeve between small
circles.
Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on
lower edges of yoke lining.
Trim pressed-under edges to
3/8” (1cm).
Pin yoke lining to yoke, right sides together, matching
notches, centers and seams. Stitch back and neck edges.
Trim seam allowances.
Turn right side out, turning neck trim upward. Press.
Pin lining to sleeve, right sides together, matching seams.
Stitch lower edge.
Trim seam allowances.
Stitch yoke front LINING to
yoke back LINING at shoulders, right sides together.
UNDERSTITCH neck edge of lining as far as possible.
Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on opening edges and SLIPSTITCH
together.
Open out left edge of placket. GATHER upper edge of
skirt back and skirt front
between small circles.
With right sides together, pin sleeve to
armhole edge, matching notches, small
circles, underarm edges and large circle to shoulder seam. Adjust gathers.
Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm)
away in seam allowances. Trim close to
second stitching. Press seam
allowances flat. Turn seam allowances
toward sleeve.
Optional Bows:
DRESS B
Hand-sew one bow to lower edge of yoke
front at center. Sew two bows to yoke
front at each side of center, spacing
evenly.
HAT A
STAYSTITCH notched edge of
one CROWN (8) section.
(Remaining crown section will be
used as lining).
Contrasting Overlay
With right sides up, pin CONTRASTING OVERLAY to one
YOKE FRONT (1), two YOKE BACK (2) and each SLEEVE
(11) section. Machine-baste just inside the 5/8” (1.5cm)
seam allowances and 1/4” (6mm) neck seam allowances.
(Remaining yoke front and yoke back sections will be used
as linings).
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Attaching Skirt
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Skirt
To reinforce SKIRT BACK (3) for opening, stitch on dotted
line, taking one stitch across point. Slash along center
back to point of stitching.
Pin yoke to skirt, right sides
together, matching notches,
circles, center fronts and
having right back even with
fold of placket and left back
at placket seam. Adjust
gathers. Baste.
Turn left edge of placket to
inside over gathers. Pin.
Stitch.
Finishing
Lower Edge:
With right sides up, pin single edge scalloped edge trim to
lower edge of skirt, having scalloped edge along raw edge,
turning under one and lapping over the other at center
back Stitch close to straight edge of trim.
When stitching, handle the two layers as one.
Prepare LINING sections same as for hat.
Hand-gather 5/8” (1.5cm) from one end
of each tie. Pull up gathers tightly.
Secure thread ends.
SLIPSTITCH pressed under
edges of yoke lining over
seams.
Baste armhole edges together.
Sleeves
Stitch seam in sleeve.
Trim seam allowances.
For ties, cut ribbon in half.
Turn seam allowances
toward yoke.
Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on one long edge of
PLACKET (4). Press.
With right sides together, pin crown to
outer edge of one BACK (9) section,
matching notches and circles, clipping
crown where necessary. Stitch.
(Remaining back section will be used
as lining).
On inside, carefully cut skirt seam allowance to 1/4”
(6mm). Press seam toward skirt.
With right sides together, pin gathered
end of each tie to crown, as shown,
having long edge of ribbon 5/8”
(1.5cm) from lower edge of crown.
Baste.
Yoke and Yoke Lining
With right sides up, pin 5/8”
(1.5cm) wide double edge
scalloped trim to yoke front,
centering over placement
line. Stitch in place.
Stitch yoke front to yoke
back at shoulders, right
sides together.
Pin lining to hat, right sides
together, matching seams.
Stitch, leaving an opening on
lower edge of back for turning
being careful not to catch ribbon ends.
Trim seam allowances.
Turn right side out. Press.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.
ENGLISH
4052
Page 3 (5 pages)
With right sides up, pin 1-1/4” (3.2cm) wide double edge
scalloped trim to overskirt, centering over horizontal placement lines, turning under one end and lapping over the
other at center back. Stitch in place.
Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on ends of
binding.
Turn binding over seam allowances
and SLIPSTITCH over seam.
With right sides up, pin 1/2”
(1.3cm) wide pre-gathered trim
to neck edge, having gathered
edge just over the 1/4” (6mm)
seam allowance, turning under
ends 5/8” (1.5cm) from back
edges. Baste.
Attaching Skirt
SLIPSTITCH ends of binding.
Finish lower edge of overskirt with a 5/8” (1.5cm) very narrow hem.
Stitch SKIRT BACK (3) (cut of fabric) to SKIRT FRONT (5)
(cut of fabric) at sides.
To make a very narrow hem, stitch 1/2” (1.3cm) from raw
edge. Turn under on line of stitching and stitch close to
fold. Cut away fabric close to stitching. Turn under again,
encasing raw edge. Stitch hem in place. Press.
With right sides up,
pin overskirt to skirt
at upper edges,
matching notches,
centers and seams.
Baste raw edges
together and along
dotted lines on back.
Finish lower edge of skirt
with a 5/8” (1.5cm) NARROW HEM.
79
With right sides up, pin 3/4”
(2cm) wide pre-gathered trim
to skirt, having bound edge
just over lower edge, turning
under one end and lapping
over the other at center back.
Stitch in place.
To reinforce skirt back for opening,
stitch on dotted line, taking one
stitch across point. Slash along
center back to point of stitching.
With right sides together, pin sleeve to
armhole edge, matching notches, small
circles, underarm edges and large circle
to shoulder seam. Adjust gathers. Baste.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in
seam allowances. Trim close to second
stitching. Press seam allowances flat.
Turn seam allowances toward sleeve.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Turn left edge of placket to
inside over gathers. Pin.
Stitch.
Buttonholes and Buttons
SLIPSTITCH pressed under
edges of yoke lining over
seams.
Pin yoke lining to yoke, right
sides together, matching
notches, centers and seams.
Stitch back edges.
Turn right side out. Press.
Baste neck edges together.
Pin yoke to skirt, right sides
together, matching notches,
center fronts and having
right back even with fold of
placket and left back at
placket seam. Adjust gathers. Baste.
Turn seam allowances
toward yoke.
Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on
lower edges of yoke lining.
Trim pressed-under edges to
3/8” (1cm).
Trim seam allowances.
SLIPSTITCH pressed-under edge of
sleeve band facing over seam.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Skirt and Contrasting Overskirt
Stitch yoke front LINING to
yoke back LINING at shoulders, right sides together.
Open out left edge of
placket. GATHER upper
edge of skirt back and skirt
front between small circles.
Place GUIDE FOR BUTTONHOLES (7) on left
yoke back, having edges of tissue even with
back edges of yoke. Transfer markings.
Make buttonholes in left yoke back at markings.
Baste armhole edges
together.
Lap left yoke back over right, matching centers.
Mark and sew buttons under buttonholes.
Sleeves
GATHER cap and lower
edge of sleeve between
small circles.
Stitch seam in sleeve.
Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on one long edge of PLACKET (4). Press.
HAT B
With right sides up, pin CONTRASTING OVERLAY to one
CROWN (8) and BACK (9) section. Machine-baste just
inside the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowances and 1/4” (6mm)
seam allowances on long unnotched edge of crown.
(Remaining crown and back sections will be used as linings).
When stitching, handle the two layers as one.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Stitch CONTRASTING OVERSKIRT sections at sides using
a DOUBLE STITCHED seam. Press seam allowances
toward back.
Open out slashed edges of
back. Baste right side of
placket to wrong side of skirt
back, placing reinforcement
stitching on back along the
1/4” (6mm) seam allowance
on lap. Stitch. Press seam
allowances toward placket.
Turn pressed-under edge
of placket to outside over
seam and SLIPSTITCH.
Press.
Neck Binding
Stitch seam in two SLEEVE BAND (12)
sections. (Remaining sleeve band
sections will be used as facings).
Pin 3/4” (2cm) wide pre-gathered trim to unnotched edge of sleeve band, right sides
together, having bound edge just inside the
5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance, turning under
one end and lapping over the other at seam.
Baste.
Stitch seam in sleeve band facing.
Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on notched edge of
facing. Trim pressed-under edge to 3/8” (1cm).
Fold NECK BINDING (10) in
half lengthwise, wrong
sides together, matching
notches, centers and triangles. Press lightly.
On inside, bring edges of placket
together. Stitch diagonally across lower
end of placket.
Pin facing to sleeve band, right sides
together, matching seams. Stitch.
Trim seam allowances.
With right sides up, pin 1-1/4” (3.2cm) wide double edge
scalloped trim to lower edge of overskirt, centering over
short vertical placement lines. Stitch in place.
Pin neck binding to outside of yoke
at neck edge, matching notches,
centers, triangles and having ends
of binding extending 5/8” (1.5cm) at
back. Stitch, taking up a 1/4” (6mm)
seam allowance and stretching
binding to fit.
With right sides up, pin 5/8” (1.5cm) wide double edge
scalloped trim to crown, centering over placement line.
Stitch in place.
With right sides together, pin 3/4” (2cm) wide pre-gathered
trim to long un-notched edge of crown, having gathered
edge just over the 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance and turning
under ends at squares. Baste.
With right sides together, pin 3/4” (2cm) wide pre-gathered
trim to notched edge of crown, having gathered edge just
over the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance and turning under
ends at small circles. Baste.
Turn facing to inside. Press.
Turn left edge of placket to inside.
Press.
Pin sleeve band to sleeve, right sides
together, matching notches, small circles and seams. Adjust gathers.
Baste. Stitch.
Trim seam allowances.
Turn seam allowances toward sleeve band.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2003. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.
ENGLISH
4052
Page 4 (5 pages)
Pin binding to front edge of hat,
matching squares. Stitch, taking up a
1/4” (6mm) seam allowance.
Pin one BODICE FRONT (15) section to pants front, right
sides together, matching notches and centers. Stitch.
(Remaining bodice front section will be used as lining).
With right sides together, pin 3/4” (2cm) wide trim to neck
edge, having straight edge just inside the 5/8” (1.5cm)
seam allowance, allowing extra fullness along curves and
turning under ends 5/8” (1.5cm) from back edges. Baste.
Trim seam allowances.
With right sides together, pin crown to
outer edge of back, matching notches
and circles, clipping crown where necessary. Stitch.
Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on lower edges of back lining
beyond clips. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on lower edge of
front lining. Trim pressed-under edges to 3/8” (1cm).
Press seam allowances toward bodice.
STAYSTITCH notched edge of crown.
Pin bodice back lining to bodice back, wrong sides
together. Clip to squares. Baste lower edges together from
back edge to square.
Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on ends of
binding.
Turn binding over seam allowances
and SLIPSTITCH over seam.
Trim seam allowances.
Fold FRONT BAND (16) in
half lengthwise, right sides
together. Stitch long
edges.
For ties, cut ribbon in half.
Hand-gather 5/8” (1.5cm) from
one end of each tie. Pull up
gathers tightly. Secure thread
ends.
SLIPSTITCH ends of binding.
REINFORCE each bodice back LINING section through
square.
Stitch bodice back lining to bodice front lining at shoulders, right sides together.
Trim seam allowances.
With right sides up, lap left back
over right, matching centers.
Baste across lower edge
between clips.
Turn right side out. Press.
Baste raw edges together.
With right sides together, pin
gathered end of each tie to
crown at squares. Baste.
Stitch center seam in PANTS BACK (18).
Cut ends of ribbon diagonally.
To reinforce, stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in seam
allowance from inside leg edge to notch. Trim close to
second stitching. Press seam allowances open above
notch.
With right sides up, pin
band to front, matching
notches, centers and
fold to circle.
STAYSTITCH notched
edge of crown LINING.
JUMPSUIT C
Front
With right sides together, pin
crown lining to outer edge of
back LINING, matching notches
and circles, clipping crown where
necessary. Stitch.
Trim seam allowances.
Bodice Back and Lining
Trim seam allowances.
Stitch center seam in PANTS FRONT (14).
To reinforce, stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in seam
allowance from inside leg edge to notch. Trim close to second stitching. Press seam allowances open above notch.
Pin bodice lining to bodice, right sides together, matching
notches, centers and seams. Stitch back and neck edges.
REINFORCE two BODICE BACK (17) sections through
square. (Remaining bodice back sections will be used as
linings).
UNDERSTITCH neck edge of lining as far as possible.
Pin bodice back to pants
back, right sides together,
matching notches and
centers. Stitch, keeping
lining free beyond clips.
Pin lining to hat, right sides
together, matching seams.
Stitch lower edge.
Trim seam allowances.
Clip upper edge of pants
even with bodice.
Trim seam allowances.
Press seam allowances
toward bodice beyond
clips.
Stitch two bodice back sections to bodice front at shoulders, right sides together.
Turn lining to inside. Press.
Baste raw edges together.
To make pleats, on outside, bring lines with small circles to
lines with large circles. Baste across pleats.
Turn lining to inside. Press.
Pin back to front at sides, right
sides together, matching notches and seams. Stitch, keeping
lining free.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Fold BINDING (13) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together,
matching squares.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2003. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.
Finishing Lower Edges
ENGLISH
4052
Page 5 (5 pages)
Stitch seam in sleeve band facing.
Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on notched
edge of facing. Trim pressed-under edge
to 3/8” (1cm).
Open out one folded edge of bias
tape. Cut off this edge along crease.
HAT C
Fold band on fold line, right sides
together. Stitch across ends.
Trim seam allowances.
STAYSTITCH notched edge of
one CROWN (8) section.
(Remaining crown section will
be used as lining).
Open out pressed-under edges of
lining at sides. Pin back lining to front
lining at sides, right sides together,
matching notches. Stitch, keeping
jumpsuit free.
Pin facing to sleeve band, right
sides together, matching seams.
Stitch.
Trim seam allowances.
Turn facing to inside. Press.
Press under lower edge of lining again.
Pin bodice lining to bodice,
wrong sides together, matching notches and seams. Baste
armhole edges together.
Pin cut edge of tape to inside leg
edges of front and back, right
sides together, having ends of
tape even with raw edges. Stitch,
taking up a 1/4” (6mm) seam
allowance.
Turn right side out. Press. SLIPSTITCH pressed under edge of
band over seam.
With right sides together, pin
crown to outer edge of one
BACK (9) section, matching
notches and circles, clipping
crown where necessary. Stitch.
(Remaining back section will be
used as lining).
Pin right side of sleeve band to wrong side of sleeve,
matching notches and seams. Baste. Stitch.
Trim seam allowances.
Trim seam allowances.
Press seam allowances toward sleeve band.
UNDERSTITCH sleeve band facing.
Turn tapes to INSIDE. Press.
Stitch inner edge of tapes in
place.
Apply one ball section of snap
fastener to inside of front at
center seam and one at each
position indicated on jumpsuit
and leg band, following manufacturer’s directions.
For ties, cut ribbon in half.
Apply socket sections to outside of back.
Hand-gather 5/8” (1.5cm) from one
end of each tie. Pull up gathers
tightly. Secure thread ends.
Sleeves
EASESTITCH cap of
SLEEVE (19) between
notches.
GATHER lower edges of
jumpsuit between squares.
Buttonholes and Buttons
SLIPSTITCH pressed-under edge of
sleeve band facing over seam.
Place GUIDE FOR BUTTONHOLES (22) on left bodice
back, having edges of tissue
even with back edges of
bodice. Transfer markings.
Stitch sleeve seam.
With right sides together, pin
gathered end of each tie to
crown, having long edge of ribbon 5/8” (1.5cm) from lower
edge of crown. Baste.
Make buttonholes in left bodice
back at markings.
Stitch seam in two SLEEVE
BAND (20) sections. (Remaining
sleeve band sections will be
used as facings).
Pin 3/4” (2cm) wide trim to unnotched edge of sleeve band, right
sides together, having straight edge
just inside the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam
allowance, turning under one end
and lapping over the other at seam.
Baste.
With right sides together, pin
sleeve to armhole edge,
matching notches, underarm
edges and large circle to
shoulder seam. Baste. Stitch.
Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away
in seam allowances. Trim close
to second stitching. Press
seam allowances flat. Turn
seam allowances toward
sleeve.
To form cuff, turn sleeve band to
outside on seam. Tack together at
seam.
Pin 3/4” (2cm) wide trim to
notched edge of LEG BAND
(21), right sides together, having straight edge just inside
the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam
allowance and turning under
ends 5/8” (1.5cm) from side
edges. Baste.
Prepare LINING sections same as for hat.
Lap left bodice back over right,
matching centers. Mark and sew
buttons under buttonholes.
If using covered buttons, cover button forms with scraps of your fabric,
following manufacturer’s directions.
Pin lining to hat, right sides
together, matching seams.
Stitch, leaving an opening on
lower edge of back for turning.
Trim seam allowances.
Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on long
n-notched edge of each leg band.
Pin band to leg edge, right
sides together, matching
notches, squares and having
finished edges extending 5/8”
(1.5cm) at side edges. Adjust
gathers. Baste. Stitch.
SLIPSTITCH ends of trim together.
Sew one button to bodice front at
each marking. Sew remaining buttons to positions on front band.
Turn right side out. Press.
Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on
opening edges and SLIPSTITCH together.
Cut ends of ribbon diagonally.
Trim seam allowances. Turn
seam allowances toward band.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2003. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.