NOW YOU HAVE YOUR RABBITS
Bunny Care Guide
www.rabbitresidence.org.uk
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Registered Charity No. 1148016
NOW YOU HAVE YOUR RABBITS - CARE GUIDE
CONTENTS
HISTORY OF THE RABBIT RESIDENCE RESCUE .............................................................. 4
MISSION STATEMENT ................................................................................................. 6
ANIMAL WELFARE ACT 2006 ....................................................................................... 7
RABBIT FACTS…. ......................................................................................................... 8
HOW TO FIND A 'RABBIT SAVVY' VET ......................................................................... 9
HOW TO SPOT A SICK RABBIT ................................................................................... 12
VACCINATIONS ......................................................................................................... 13
TEETH PROBLEMS ..................................................................................................... 13
GUT STASIS ............................................................................................................... 14
FLYSTRIKE ................................................................................................................. 14
SORE HOCKS (PODODERMATITIS) ............................................................................. 15
ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI (E.CUNICULI) ............................................................. 16
WHY ATTACH RABBIT ACCOMMODATION TO EXERCISE AREA? ................................ 17
CLEANING THE HUTCH/SHED .................................................................................... 18
USEFUL EQUIPMENT/ FIRST AID KIT ......................................................................... 20
UNDERSTANDING RABBITS ....................................................................................... 22
TRUST TRAINING ............................................................................................................. 23
HOW TO BECOME YOUR RABBITS' BEST FRIEND ....................................................... 24
BONDING WITH YOUR RABBITS .......................................................................................... 26
PICKING UP RABBITS ....................................................................................................... 27
RABBITS, CHILDREN AND HANDLING ........................................................................ 29
HOUSE RABBITS ........................................................................................................ 31
LITTER TRAINING YOUR HOUSE RABBIT .................................................................... 33
LITTER TRAINING LAPSES .................................................................................................. 34
DIFFERENT TYPES OF LITTER ..................................................................................... 35
RABBIT TOYS............................................................................................................. 39
LIST OF VETS ............................................................................................................. 40
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HISTORY OF THE RABBIT RESIDENCE RESCUE
You may be asking yourself how I came to have the responsibility of caring for up to 100 rabbits at
any one time, building a rescue centre and maintaining the grounds along with the entire set-up.
When I was 4 years old I saw my first ever rabbit. I remember seeing this black animal hopping freely
around a neighbour’s garden. Having never seen anything like it before, not knowing what it was, I
was intrigued. It was so funny and entertaining, so clever and very cute looking. I asked my mum what
it was - it was a rabbit!! A black, female, straight-eared adult. My fascination and love for this rabbit
made me constantly want to visit our neighbour's garden.
For my 6th birthday, my Nana bought me a rabbit and a 4ft by 2ft hutch (though we now request 6ft by
2ft hutches minimum, or a shed, plus a large predator proof run). I named my rabbit “Twitchit” and she
was to change my life. Many children experience having pet rabbits’ but sadly due to their parents'
lack of knowledge and interest these rabbits are sometimes neglected. A lot of parents see rabbits as
low maintenance 'disposable' pets.
My years with Twitchit are so vivid. I used to dream of her at school, she was constantly on my mind,
and she was the light of my life until the day she died. Of course mistakes were made because we
didn't have the knowledge then that we have today. We got her pregnant and she had six kittens - this
also greatly influenced where I am today. I kept two of the kittens, but the other four were sold which
broke my heart. I felt a deep instinct that something wasn’t right, but I was helpless as a child. One
ran away, after being kept in a hutch with a hole in the front of the chicken mesh - this I vividly
remember. Two died of myxomatosis but the other one did ok. Mine of course lived the longest “Lucky” and “Bambie” lived to the grand age of 9 years old. The day those little rabbits were given
away the tears streamed down my face - it is something I will never forget. I made a promise to myself
then that I’d make a difference when I was old enough, and that is what I have done.
Since I was a young child I’d wanted to be a vet, but I was also interested in caring for people/working
with children. In 1995, at age 16 after my GCSE’s I had a gap year to help me decide what route to
take. I worked with children with cerebral palsy and also at Wood Green Animal Shelter. Here I was
put in charge of the small animals where I learnt that over 35,000 rabbits were abandoned each year.
I was now at the front line of the problem; many rabbits having to be euthanised, many taking over a
year to find a new home and there was not enough space to cater for all of them. People had so
many different excuses for giving them up. Most apparent and frustrating was that if people had been
educated about the true responsibilities involved in keeping pet rabbits and the fact that they are not
cuddly toys (as they appear to be), many would not have bought them in the first place. During that
year I adopted 12 rabbits myself. They were all rabbits that were difficult to re-home due to old age or
unsociable behaviour. To begin with they lived in my parents back garden but soon I moved them
onto a plot of land behind my parents’ house, which was rented for my sister's horses.
In September 1996 I started college to study 'A' levels to enable me to go on to university to study as
a vet. Unfortunately I didn’t do much studying, but spent my days with my rabbits, creating exercise
areas, environmental enrichment and studying their behaviour. In 1998 I went to university as planned
but my love for rabbits still dominated my life I took them all the way to my Gloucestershire University.
I had found a farm to stay on, where I was allowed to keep them. My passion for rescuing rabbits was
so strong three more came my way while I was there, and after six months I stopped my course and
came back home to concentrate on caring for unwanted rabbits. By this point my sister had moved
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away from home along with her horses. Once again I settled my rabbits back down in the field, where
I set about designing a more permanent rescue set up. I now had 30 rabbits.
In 2001 disaster struck, the owner of the land threatened to evict me, unless I bought the land for
£5,000. Neither my parents nor I could afford this. Was I to find homes for all my dearly beloved
bunnies and end my vocation forever? I advertised for help through the Rabbit Welfare Association,
Rabbit and Rodent Enthusiast Club and local newspapers. Some rabbits were re-homed, but then
came an angel who changed the course of things forever. A dear lady contacted me and said she
wanted to donate the money to buy the land and save the rabbits. I couldn’t believe my ears, it was
like a dream, but it was true and so by the end of 2001 I owned the land and The Rabbit Residence
Rescue as it is known today was born.
As it was no longer just a retirement home for elderly rabbits and ones with health concerns, I now
had to have a system and run things more professionally. I set my maximum number to 40, had a
waiting list, and was continually making plans to improve facilities and when each goal was achieved,
another was waiting to be completed - Hospital, office, isolation unit etc. I soon became overwhelmed
with daily practical duties, paperwork, appointments with many people wanting rabbits, giving up
rabbits or kindly donating their time, skills, products and cash, which there is never enough of. My vet
bills are often up to £1,000 a month, and along with food, bedding, cleaning materials, and of course
new equipment and facilities you can imagine the total cost of running the rescue.
I often feel exhausted and physically and mentally drained. I have a group of volunteers, who are so
precious to me, but when I have a minute to think and see the happy bunnies and the difference I am
making, my exhaustion disappears and I know I’d do anything for them.
If you would like to help in any way, please contact us via the details below, thank you.
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MISSION STATEMENT
1.
To take care of abandoned and unwanted pet rabbits.
2.
To care for them in a way that promotes their health and welfare to the highest standards
supported by the RWA (Rabbit Welfare Association), RSPCA, vets and a natural way of living.
3.
Every rabbit will be given all necessary veterinary treatment and a chance to live unless it is
detrimental to their welfare. All rabbits will be provided the correct diet and husbandry.
4.
No “Rabbit Residence” rabbits shall be destroyed because of aggression or nervousness.
5.
To find all rabbits, where possible, new and loving permanent homes.
6.
The Rabbit Residence will provide all rabbits a loving safe environment for the rest of their lives if
they do not find new owners.
7.
To provide each person who contacts us with information, which will enable them to make an
informed decision, as to whether rabbits are the right pets for them and if so provide them with
the best knowledge to care for pet rabbits.
8.
To help prevent the need for rabbit abandonment in the first place.
9.
To reach out to owners of pet rabbits, parents and relatives of children with pet rabbits and
children themselves to inspire them to enjoy giving their rabbit(s) a better life.
10. To ensure people have access to the best rabbit care information before they purchase/adopt
any rabbits.
11. To teach present rabbit owners that there is always something new to learn to help us improve
our rabbits’ welfare.
12. To make sure people have access to good rabbit vets and the right medical advice. To ensure
that owners understand that rabbits can get many illnesses and are not a cheap pet option
13. To promote the RWA “A hutch is not enough” campaign.
14. To educate people that all rabbits can be our best friends. To demonstrate how to understand
rabbit behaviour, body language, noises and interactions with humans, other animals and
rabbits.
We must change the way society sees rabbits.
They are intelligent, inquisitive loving animals. They are as good a human companion as a cat or dog,
if only we can give them patience and understanding and a living environment that enriches their
lives.
Caroline Anne Collings
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ANIMAL WELFARE ACT 2006
Until the new Act came into force in 2007 in England, the laws relating to animal cruelty in the UK
dated back to 1911. Under the old law, animals had to be suffering before action could be taken.
With the new law in place, the RSPCA are able to intervene at an earlier stage than they previously
could.
The Animal Welfare Act 2006 means that you have a legal duty of care to meet the five welfare
needs of your rabbit.
This means you are now legally obliged to care for your pet properly by providing these five basic
needs:

Somewhere suitable to live
This means that as an absolute minimum your rabbits should be able to:
- Stand up on their hind legs without their ears touching the roof
- Lie fully outstretched in any direction
- Take an unhindered sequence of consecutive hops
- Turn around unimpeded
The Rabbit Welfare Association advise that as a minimum the accommodation should be 6' x
2' x 2' attached to a run which measures 8' x 4'. However, this is a minimum and bigger is
better!

A proper diet and constant supply of fresh water
See page 10.

The ability to express normal behaviour
You should provide them with suitable accommodation and an exercise area. Rabbits like to
run, jump, hide and play with toys. They should be able to exercise as much as they want to
and have things to chew.

To be housed with, or apart from, other animals
It depends on the species of animal as to whether the Welfare Act requires that animals are
kept alone or with another animal. Rabbits are very sociable and advice on rabbit welfare is
that they need the companionship of another rabbit.

Protection from, and treatment of, illness and injury
They must have regular vaccinations and six monthly checks at the vet. Also, regular health
checks at home.
For more information on The Animal Welfare Act, go to the Rabbit Welfare Association Website at
www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk
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RABBIT FACTS….

Rabbits are herbivores (they don’t eat animals or animal products).

They need to graze for at least 8 hours a day as grass is their staple diet and grazing keeps their
teeth healthy. Their digestive system means they need to graze; not eat a quick meal once a
day. They only need a handful of commercial feed pellets once a day.

They are very low to the ground, and are ground loving animals.

They have very good hearing but poor sight.

Rabbits are a prey animal - they are food to other animals (including humans!) and this affects
their natural instincts and behaviours.

All pet rabbits have the same needs for exercise and diet and basic instincts as their wild
relatives. It doesn’t matter what size or colour they are.

Therefore, they are always looking out for danger and are cautious.

When you first approach them, they will run away, their survival instinct is to assume we are
dangerous.

If you are patient, stay still, don’t react and let them come up to you, they will come back and
investigate you. They may be cautious but they are very curious and inquisitive.
A rabbit's genetics, breed and breeding does have some influence over how placid they are with
humans, but environmental factors have a part to play too.

The accommodation they are born into and kept in.

The relationship the mother rabbit has with the owner and how the mother acts e.g. nervous/
calm.

How the owner behaves around the rabbits and how he/she handles them e.g. gentle, calm,
aggressive, stressed.
With the correct interaction a rabbit can bond very closely to a human and the human will realise how
intelligent a rabbit is, how much potential there is and how such a close relationship is really possible.
As stated above, the set-up and design of rabbit living quarters to allow appropriate interaction with
humans also makes a huge difference.
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HOW TO FIND A 'RABBIT SAVVY' VET
One of the first and most important things you should do when you get your new rabbit(s) home is
register them with a vet - preferably one who specialises in rabbits. Don't be embarrassed to ask if the
surgery has a vet who specialises in rabbits. Don't wait until your rabbit is poorly and in need of
treatment.
Ring around and ask some questions, for instance:

How often do they see rabbits?

How many of their vets specialise or like to see rabbits?

Do they routinely spay and neuter rabbits?

Do they offer a post operative check as part of the cost of the operation?

Do they routinely do rabbit dentals (for rabbits that need them)?

Do they recommend vaccination of rabbits? (They should say yes and recommend
vaccination against myxomatosis and VHD once a year.)
See page 40 for some vet practices who are used to seeing rabbits.
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DIET AND NUTRITION
One crucial factor to the rabbits continued health when going to their new home is nutrition.
Recommended Feeding Routine

Constant supply of plenty of fresh hay. Fibre
is really important to a rabbit's digestion so
hay should be the main thing they eat! Each
rabbit should eat a ball of hay the same size
as themselves each day, but put in even
more than this so they can use it as bedding
too.

A bottle and bowl of water (so that they can
choose which to drink from). In winter a bowl of warm (not hot) water is much appreciated in
freezing weather and in summer a bowl is better when it is hot to allow plenty of fluid intake.

ReadiGrass (or other dried grass) ad lib. They can have as much of this as they will eat but
introduce gradually. It adds variety, interest and high fibre for a healthy diet. (However,
ReadiGrass is slightly richer than 'normal' hay because of the way it has been dried. If you
notice one of your rabbits gets an upset stomach when fed ReadiGrass, it may be worth
removing it to see whether this is the cause). Timothy hay is also recommended.

Morning – Vegetables. This should be the
same selection each day to prevent stomach
upset. New vegetables should be introduced
slowly and one at time to see if it upsets their
stomach. Spring Greens and small pieces of
broccoli make good daily vegetables. Carrot
has a high sugar content so should only be
given occasionally as a treat. Various herbs
such as flat leaf parsley, dill, coriander, mint
and sage are loved by bunnies and these can
be useful to encourage a rabbit to eat if they are
unwell. Two wild plants that are excellent for the
digestion and bowels are bramble leaves and
shepherds purse but only feed them if you are sure you can identify them and make sure if
you are getting it from the hedgerow that it hasn't been fouled on by other animals. Fruit is
not recommended. It is high in sugar and can upset rabbits' tummies. In severe cases it
may ferment in the rabbit’s stomach causing excessive bloating and shutdown of the
digestive system. If you do feed fruit, do so only occasionally and give only a small piece of
one fruit, but generally we would recommend that it is safer not to feed fruit.

Evening – One handful/half a cup of Supreme Science Selective pellets between two
rabbits (about 30g). Other brands of pellet are available but this is the one we recommend.
Replenish hay for night time munching.
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Half a cup of pellets doesn't seem much but hopefully
after reading the leaflets we have provided you with you
will understand why this is. The main reason is because
a rabbit is designed to survive on hay and grass. Many
people don't realise this because pet shops sell so
much processed food and they sell hay as bedding
rather than food. The other good reason for giving a
small portion of pellets is that the rabbits should finish
that amount in one sitting so you will immediately know
that there may be something wrong if the food is left.
We don’t see rabbits in the wild eating pet shop food!
Pellets were originally developed for the convenience of breeders to fatten up rabbits bred for meat
and to put weight on show rabbits; convenience for feeding laboratory rabbits; and because it is easy
and clean to store. Animals of all species are becoming obese and lazy, because too much food is put
in front of them meaning they do not have to naturally hunt or forage for it. Rabbit mix food should be
avoided as it will encourage the rabbit to pick out the bits they like, and usually leave the bits they
need, proving that they are intelligent and just like kids they have a sweet tooth! Your rabbits won’t be
thinking that a pellet "looks boring", it's only us that worry about that.
NEVER feed your rabbit(s) human food and stay away from pet shop treats i.e. anything with seeds,
honey, dried corn cob, yoghurt drops etc. Leaflets about healthy treats will be provided to you in our
leaflet pack. Try the RWA website (http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/catalog) or The Hay Experts
(www.thehayexperts.co.uk) for healthy treats.
The last and most serious reason to limit pellets is because a rabbit must graze to prevent dental
disease. Insufficient grazing on hay can lead to overgrown back teeth, abscesses and numerous other
health problems. A selection of different grasses and hays to graze on will encourage good eating
habits.
NEVER CHANGE YOUR RABBITS PELLET FOOD SUDDENLY. THIS CAN CAUSE DIGESTIVE
UPSETS WHICH CAN BE FATAL. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS INTRODUCE NEW FOODS OVER A
PERIOD OF 1 – 2 WEEKS.
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HOW TO SPOT A SICK RABBIT
Sadly, many rabbits are found dead by their owners simply because they’ve been stuck in a hutch
making it impossible for the owner to see any natural behaviour and therefore unable to observe any
changes due to illness. Prey animals, frustratingly, hide signs of illness because of their survival
instinct to avoid attracting predators.
Rabbits are quiet when they are ill unlike a cat or dog. They can make various vocal communications,
but this is mainly seen in the most trusting, confident rabbits - usually house rabbits where they have
a very close bond with the owner who spends many hours with their rabbit. There is also the most
horrible high-pitched shriek you never want to hear of a petrified rabbit and you will recognise some
growling noises of a scared or discontented rabbit.
This all means that we have to be very vigilant and observant and know our rabbits very well to
recognise if they are unwell. They are creatures of habit. Signs of illness are extremely subtle, but if
noticed and the rabbit is taken to the vets promptly, they can be treated successfully. The one vital
piece of information for a rabbit owner is do not wait to see if they will be better tomorrow – go to the
vets straight away.
The rabbit may have been ill for a while but only just be showing symptoms. Also the main thing which
kills rabbits is not the infection/illness, which can normally be treated, but their digestive system
shutting down. Even a few hours without normal grazing can cause life-threatening problems. Rabbits
are creatures of routine so be aware if your rabbit acts differently.
Signs to watch out for:

Changes in behaviour or activity levels

Reduced or lack of appetite

Changes in thirst

Changes in the amount and/or consistency of faeces (including soft faeces stuck to bottom)

Changes in the amount /colour /consistency of urine

Bloated abdomen

Lameness or not hopping correctly

Head tilt

Lumps on skin

Discharges / bleeding / dribbling

Difficulty breathing
Seek veterinary advice immediately or ring Caroline for advice
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VACCINATIONS
Rabbits need to be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease. Both
of these diseases are very distressing for the rabbit and usually fatal.
Myxomatosis is a virus which is spread by insects such as mosquitoes and fleas. Clinical
signs include swollen eyes and genitals, skin lesions, lethargy and a lack of appetite.
Viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD) is a virus that is spread in a variety of ways. These
include direct contact (rabbit-to-rabbit), indirect (people, clothing, shoes, objects, insects)
and via the air. Clinical signs include fever, loss of appetite, collapse, difficulty breathing
and usually a rapid death.
They are both really horrible diseases so please don't take the risk.
In the past, it was necessary to vaccinate against myxomatosis twice a year, and against
VHD once a year. There is now a new vaccine that protects against both diseases and
only needs to be given once a year, making it easier to keep your bunnies safe. However,
it is still a good idea to take your rabbit for a general health check every six months.
Indoor rabbits need to be vaccinated too as the viruses could travel indoors on your shoes
or clothes.
YOU MUST ENSURE THAT YOU KEEP VACCINATIONS UP TO DATE
TEETH PROBLEMS
Rabbits have incisors at the front of their mouth, (the well-known Bugs Bunny look) and molars at the
back to graze on hay and grass with. It is sadly very common for rabbits to have teeth problems
because of genetics and people breeding rabbits to have round faces so there’s not enough room for
the teeth to grow and align, and also breeding from rabbits with badly aligned teeth. Misaligned teeth
don't meet up and wear down as they should.
Incisor problems are much more stressful as they need clipping every few weeks. Removal is often
advised.
Molars can develop spikes, but these can be easily rasped without shattering the jaw. With
encouragement to graze on hay molar issues can often correct themselves. An experienced rabbit vet
won’t need to use anaesthetic, but some rabbits may require anaesthetic every few months and be at
risk to jaw bone/tooth root abscesses. Penicillin works well for this.
Every rabbit should have its teeth checked at least every 6 months just like us and has the potential to
need them rasping so every rabbit owner should see it as part of normal expense and care. Some
rabbits may need a one-off dental and this could happen at any age. But if young rabbits need
dentals, they tend to continue to need them once or twice a year, but with the new found timothy hay
and dried grasses, this problem is being prevented and slowed down by encouraging your rabbit to
graze for at least 8 hours a day as a wild rabbit would.
Signs to indicate possible problems include loss of appetite, small poos, dribbling, and generally
lethargic and quiet. Teeth problems can quickly lead to gut stasis if left untreated.
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GUT STASIS
Gut stasis or 'ileus' is a common problem in rabbits. It causes the guts to stop moving
properly which leads to a build up of gas in the intestine.
Your rabbit will stop eating and be very lethargic. URGENT veterinary attention is vital as
your rabbit will need fluids and medication to help start the guts moving again. Prevention
depends on feeding a high fibre diet such as hay, avoiding stress and changes in the
environment.
Making sure rabbits cannot chew on objects other than food (such as carpet and wires) is
also important in preventing gut stasis.
FLYSTRIKE
Flystrike is something that every rabbit owner should fear. It is caused by the green bottle fly which
lays eggs on live rabbits. Flies are attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent
glands. They lay their eggs on or around the rabbit's bottom and within hours these eggs hatch into
maggots which then eat into the rabbits flesh. The rabbit is effectively being eaten alive by the
maggots and they also release toxins into the rabbit during this process.
Flystrike is unfortunately a common problem during the summer months in particular, but you should
take care to check your rabbit's bottom all year around. During the summer months it is imperative
that you check your rabbit's bottom area daily.
Make sure you check all around that area carefully, in
the crease of their back legs and by their scent glands.
Keep their hutch or cage area clean so that flies are
not attracted to it. It is good practice to clean out as
often as you can during the summer. Some rabbits are
more prone to flystrike i.e. elderly or overweight rabbits
who are unable to clean themselves, rabbits with
urinary or stomach problems etc. Wounds are also a
perfect place for a fly to lay it's eggs. All of these
rabbits should be monitored even more carefully.
Rabbit with dirty bottom
If you find maggots on your rabbit you should immediately take it to your vet. This is an emergency
condition and needs to be dealt with straight away. The rabbit will be in a great deal of pain and also
shock. Flystrike can be fatal.
There are products that you can apply to your rabbit's bottom area to prevent flystrike (e.g.
RearGuard). This will not repel flies but it will prevent any maggots from forming and this treatment
lasts for around 10 weeks. This maybe worth considering if your rabbit is more at risk. You can get
these treatments from your vet.
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It is worth bearing in mind though that an easy way to
help prevent flystrike is to make sure that your rabbit
has got lots of room to move around in. The further
away he/she can get from the toilet area the better - a
rabbit in a small cramped hutch has got no way to get
away from the flies.
Rabbit with Flystrike
SORE HOCKS (Pododermatitis)
Sore hocks or 'pododermatitis' is a condition where the normal pink callused area on the hind foot of
the rabbit becomes inflamed, reddened and sore.
Prevention is very important as once a rabbit
suffers from sore hocks, it suffers for life.
Causes include poor hygiene including damp
bedding, wire flooring or other unsuitable flooring,
long nails (as weight is distributed to the heel),
obesity and immobility.
It is important to see your vet if you suspect that
your rabbit has sore hocks as they can confirm
diagnoses and suggest appropriate care and
medication.
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ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI (E.Cuniculi)
E. Cuniculi is a parasite that lives in the blood stream and can cause many different diseases in
rabbits. The disease is spread through the urine of a positive rabbit, while showing clinical signs. The
most common clinical sign is a tilting of the head to one side ('head tilt') that develops suddenly (also
look out for signs of a slight limp or not walking/hopping quite normally which can sometimes be an
early sign). Rabbits can respond well to veterinary treatment and nursing. Other conditions that can
be caused by this parasite include cataracts, seizures and kidney disease.
Rabbits can be treated for E Cuniculi with products such as Panacur or Lapizole. During the time that
rabbits are with us at the rescue we tend only to treat the ones that show any sign of illness or
depression.
We have provided an information leaflet so that new owners are able to choose whether to test and
treat their rabbits, or if their rabbits show any signs like drinking a lot or quietness, they can then
advise their vet and get treatment for them.
Treatment takes patience and love, and making sure you continue to hand feed and play with your
bunnies so they don’t just associate you with medicine is important.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact Caroline. Recognition and treatment can
stop many serious illnesses.
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WHY ATTACH RABBIT ACCOMMODATION TO EXERCISE AREA?
The reasons for having a big cosy indoor area whether it is a shed, Wendy house or 6ft by 2ft by 2ft
hutch are:

Somewhere for the rabbits to retreat to so they feel safe

Somewhere to shelter away from the weather

Somewhere safe and warm as the rabbits get older

Somewhere you can confine the rabbits so that you can easily health check them. Rabbits
trained to go into their hutch are a lot easier to socialise with and handle than if they are
running around a large area

Somewhere they can be kept if they are sick or need to be monitored

Somewhere you can observe daily toilet habits
It is worth noting that ramps are not good for old, overweight, large breed or arthritic rabbits.
Rabbit behaviour studied in those who are in an exercise area away from their hutch/shed (bolt hole)
revealed that they display the following behaviours:

fear and anxiety

they are not as sociable towards their owner

they are not as settled

they feel less secure

they don’t interact or respond towards their owner as well and are less likely to be relaxed
when approached to be picked up but panic and want to find somewhere to hide, having no
key place to run to.
Therefore, the housing must be attached to the run because:

It will allow them safe exercise all day (min requirement 8 hours)
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Stress free and more flexibility for us while we are not around
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A base to “trust train” them to return to
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Some rabbits learn quickly to come home when called, others take longer to trust and
understand and will become stressed. A hutch run combo helps them learn quickly in a
relaxed environment

A rabbit learns to feel safe in their indoor area. It is where they will feed, shelter, sleep and
hide from danger. They keep warm and dry or shelter from heat. Ultimately they will mark
their territory. They feel very insecure if picked up and taken to a separate run

Rabbits love time outside but too much space too soon is as negative as not having enough
space. The rabbit won’t learn to trust you or respond to you as they will be busy enjoying
their freedom and not learning to need or want a relationship with you. A rabbit that comes
home when called is far more enjoyable and relaxed than one you have to chase around
the garden to “catch” each day. This then often results in the rabbit being confined to its
hutch permanently to avoid the problem.
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Stress can cause unnatural behavior and death
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Rabbits thrive on routine
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CLEANING THE HUTCH/SHED
We are often asked how often should a rabbit house be cleaned out and what is the best way to
prepare the bedding.
We like to paint the inside of our hutches with white emulsion paint because it brightens the hutch, but
more importantly it protects the wood and allows urine to be wiped away as it seems to prevent the
urine absorbing into the wood more than some wood stains. It’s a good idea to treat the outside of the
hutch (or shed or playhouse) with weatherproof varnish or preservative, but make sure it is pet
friendly.
A second idea, especially with sheds is to place lino on the floor, but make sure it is sealed in properly
with bathroom sealant because if the rabbits chew and swallow the lino they could develop serious
digestive problems and die. Another good floor covering are foam tiles (like the ones you can buy for
kids). These options will also protect the wood and make disinfection and disease prevention easy.
Once this is done, you can then prepare the bedding in the hutch. It is always cheaper to buy horsesized bales of wood shavings and go to local farms for bales of hay and straw. Make sure you don’t
use sawdust or shavings from carpenters, which could have chemicals in them and be dusty.
We use a thick layer of wood shavings on the floor, which will absorb urine toxins away from the
rabbit’s skin and keep the hutch/shed more hygienic for longer. Rabbits can also develop sore hocks
(see page 15) if they don’t have a soft bed.
We then sprinkle a thick layer of straw in the bedroom compartment as it is a good insulator and
whether winter or summer, a nice bed of straw prevents boredom and allows them to gnaw and nest
make. It also drains urine/ moisture away, whereas hay absorbs it.
Hay is the most essential part of a rabbit’s diet. As well as meadow hay (the usual hay you can buy in
bags from a pet shop or bales from a farmer, we also strongly recommend Timothy hay and dried
grass, e.g. Readigrass, Just Grass or Graze-On. We fill the front of the hutch with these so we can
see the rabbit grazing as we walk by and can observe when they need replenishing.
Rabbits naturally toilet in corners or one place, so we also place a large litter tray in the area of the
hutch they use most. We place this on top of the wood shavings, put a newspaper in it, then a layer of
wood shavings and then the hay on top.
If your rabbits live in a shed, which is the modern recommended idea, you can both place newspapers
on top of the lino and then place a nest box or small hutch in the shed with plenty of straw for warmth,
with litter trays in the corners. We tend to place the hays in the trays as they like to graze while they
toilet. Alternatively treat the shed as a large hutch/ small stable!
WHEN TO CLEAN ?
The rule we use is; if it’s not clean enough for us to lie in, it’s not clean enough for our rabbits! It’s
good to check daily, and clean the dirty areas daily and add fresh hay. You may only need to do a
thorough clean once or twice a week. By placing a small entrance hole in the shed or hutch and
keeping a tarpaulin or wooden sheet over the hutch front and main doors closed, the inside will not
get wet from snow and rain, which during winter would cause the need for daily cleaning.
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You’ll need a hard and soft brush, dustpan and we find using a paint scraper helpful to clean the
corners and dried on droppings. Various disinfectants are available, but some only kill mites and not
viruses. Check the product information for instructions for use.
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USEFUL EQUIPMENT/ FIRST AID KIT
Rabbits are prey animals; this means they become easily stressed, making their immune system
vulnerable and therefore easily prone to infections. It is important to note that prey animals have a
natural instinct to hide illnesses or pain as part of their survival technique not to be found by
predators. A rabbit’s digestive system can shut down if they don’t eat normally for more than a day. If
you see any behavioural, eating or drinking changes, take them to the vet immediately! A vet
can give many medicines to prevent a small issue developing into a serious problem.
FIRST AID KIT TO KEEP AT HOME (NEVER BUY MEDICAL PRODUCTS FROM PETSHOPS.
ONLY VETS SELL SAFE AND RECOMMENDED BRANDS THAT WORK PROPERLY!)
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Indoor plastic cage to keep bun inside house when poorly
Protexin pellets
Protexin powder
Supreme Recovery
Critical care formula
Wide & fine tooth comb
Soft bristle brush
Moulting fur removing brush
Hibiscrub
Sudocrem
Antiseptic wound powder (available from vet)
Baby wipes (sensitive and non fragranced)
Heat pad (available from RWA Shop)
Towels/ blankets
Small rabbit nail clippers
Pet carrier with top and front openings, (solid plastic one are better than wire mesh ones as
the rabbit can’t see the dogs and cats when at the vets).
1 and 2 ml syringes with ends cut off to syringe feed
Jars of human baby food – fruit/vegetable ingredients only
USEFUL EQUIPMENT
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Dustbins and plastic/ metal containers to store food and bedding away from vermin and
keep dry and cool
Dustpan and broom
Soft and hard brushes
Chisel, paint scraper
Bottle brush for water bottles
Dish cloths and sponges to clean bowls
Kitchen roll
Toothbrush to clean water bottle caps
Ceramic bowl for water in run, large water bottles for hutch/ shed and plastic bowl with two
sections for food pellets in evening
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Some example combs and brushes
Soft brush
Slicker brush
Comb with wide and narrow teeth
Furminator (good for removing loose
hairs from underneath but follow the
instructions and be careful not to
scratch the bunny’s skin)
Comb with handle and different lengthed teeth
Example of nail clippers
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UNDERSTANDING RABBITS
Some people have little understanding that a rabbit’s outlook on life is influenced by so many factors.
They will often say, “I want a pet rabbit that is sociable and likes being cuddled and picked up”. It
makes me feel so sad that people expect so much from their rabbits and seem to forget that they are
prey animals. What we put in, is what we get back.
We need to understand them and not expect them to understand us! It’s best to describe them as
trusting or non-trusting. My pet hate is when people describe a rabbit as friendly or not friendly. You
do not get unfriendly bunnies - you get scared bunnies!!! Every rabbit has the potential to be your best
friend; however, the following will influence how successful you are in achieving this.
1.
Nature and nurture; past history; is the rabbit from a rescue, breeder or pet shop? Has the
rabbit had a positive or negative human and environmental experience?
2.
Rabbits have a sensitive disposition. They feel more comfortable with calm, confident,
motherly people.
3.
The environment and home set up has a huge influence on their behaviour. Some rabbits
adapt well to being house bunnies while others prefer a shed with attached run. Some find
a whole garden is too daunting for them to begin with. (Note that we only recommend full
garden access if you are sure your fences are secure and only under human supervision,
because of predator risks).
4.
A good routine is essential.
5.
If you understand their behaviour, put in enough time and demonstrate the correct
behaviour yourself rabbits will respond positively. They will show many of the characteristics
of a dog. They will follow you around, respond to your voice, lick your head, ask to be
stroked, and want to be with you, lie around in a very relaxed position and gently chatter
their teeth with contentment.
6.
We must remember that a rabbit can be extremely interactive and bond with us closely but
still not like being picked up because this is the one behaviour we display which is close to
that of their enemy - the predator, be it human, fox, cat or bird of prey.
7.
They also don’t like strong smells such as cigarettes, perfumes or dogs.
8.
Talking to your rabbit is crucial - hearing is their strongest sense, their long whiskers will
guide them through a dark warren so they have been designed with poor sight, so waving
your hands near their faces will provoke negative fear behaviours.
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Over the years I have developed the following scale, which you can use when bonding with your
rabbit. Patience and perseverance are vital. Always look at what you have achieved, however small
and take one step at a time. Don’t ask too much of your bunny too soon.
Trust training
Level
Behaviour
1
Scared of humans, hasn’t learnt to trust humans/ learnt not to trust/ panics at the sight
of people
2
Will come home when called/ show awareness of where food is left/ what time fed
(they are much happier responding to your voice before trusting your touch).
3
Starts to show interest in you
4
Will hand feed
5
Will beg for food and try to get your attention
6
Will come up to you and greet you/ circle around your feet
7
Will allow you to nose rub them
8
Will climb over you
9
Wants to be stroked all over
"To be picked up" is not on my scale because you can have an extremely confident rabbit but it will
still 'swear' at you when it is picked up. At the same time you can have a terrified rabbit that appears
not to react to being held but is actually freezing as an innate instinct to deter the predator’s interest.
However some rabbits become so relaxed and trusting they don’t mind being picked up and calmly sit
in your arms while you get your cuddle fix. Other rabbits get used to being health checked, going to
the vets and are either not phased by these events or learn that it won’t last forever and harm will not
be done. Rabbits sense our confidence so if we are nervous or less experienced they often get the
better of us, whereas if you are calm, gentle but firm and can think two steps ahead of them and are
used to handling rabbits they will in turn feel much safer and be more relaxed.
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HOW TO BECOME YOUR RABBITS' BEST FRIEND
In order to be a successful pet owner, which ever animal(s) we take on, we have to understand
certain characteristics of that animal.
1.
We must have acceptance and respect for the animal.
2.
We must be patient and understanding of the animal's basic needs and instincts.
3.
We must take the time to research and learn about the animal in depth as a wild animal in its
natural environment. It is important to understand the reasons behind its behaviours, diet and
relationship with others of its own species and other species.
4.
Understand how and why it has become domesticated and kept as a pet.
5.
We must learn to speak its language, however silent, and adapt to it not the other way round.
6.
We must learn about positive and reward training.
If we can do this we will develop a far deeper bond with our pets that will be immensely rewarding and
satisfying for us. Our pets will benefit too, as they will be confident, relaxed and it will really help them
live a long healthy life and help prevent stress-related illnesses. All animals have natural instincts
within them developed through evolution. Three basic areas we need to comprehend about our pet
are:
1.
Is it a prey animal or predator?
2.
Do its wild relatives live alone or in groups (if in groups, what type of hierarchy)?
3.
Is it a “fight” or “flight” animal? Examples of flight animals are horses, rabbits, zebras and
antelopes. These will run away if threatened by a predator. Examples of fight animals are dogs,
lions and other cats. These will attack anything that approaches them that they feel is a threat.
Sadly we do see exceptions e.g. where rabbits are so scared they will bite their owner to protect
themselves, or dogs that have been so abused that they are depressed and timid.
Once we understand these things about the animal, we will start to communicate with it, and in turn
see positive responses and reactions (what we see as the pet being sweet and friendly). They will be
accepting of us understanding that we are a friend (rather than seeing us as an outsider of its own
species or as a predator) and will interact with us. Learning to talk the animal’s language and
understanding why the animal is reacting to us, whether positive or negative is far more satisfying
than just having the animal and not knowing why it loves us or is scared of us. It is also a much kinder
way for it to live than forcing the animal to respond out of fear.
Whether your rabbit is from a pet shop, rescue or neighbour, it will be at a certain level of “tameness” this should be described as “trust”! Through Caroline’s experience, she has created a table that
shows “stages of trust”. To earn our rabbits trust we have to start at stage one. Some rabbits will learn
quickly and not need much interaction while others will need lots of time every day and need lots of
reassurance and love to enable them to trust us.

It is kinder if rabbits live in pairs as rabbits are not solitary animals in the wild. A neutered
buck (male) and spayed doe (female) bond most successfully and through the natural
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relationship a doe and buck have, they tend to have more relaxed characters when
together, compared to same sex pairs.
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Their accommodation influences them greatly. For full details and ideas please ask us, but
briefly, a shed (or a hutch of at least 6ft x 2ft x 2ft high) joined to a large predator proof run,
plus free range access to the garden under human supervision is the most appropriate
living environment. It is important to design the bunny accommodation so that it is easy for
humans to move about in to interact with the rabbits. An alternative is keeping your rabbits
indoors as 'house rabbits' - here they can live within the humans' everyday lives and they
quickly learn that they do not need to feel threatened and this helps greatly.

The more time they spend caged/confined, the less able they are to act naturally and the
less time they spend with us. If they only see us when we want to grab them and pick them
up they will see us as predators. They will feel like prisoners!
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Bonding with your rabbits
Once you have your rabbits' home set up, and your rabbits have settled in, you may now begin to
bond with your rabbits.
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Make sure you are feeling relaxed and calm, are not in a rush and feeling confident and
happy.
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Sit in the run with some treats (spring greens or small pieces of carrot) in your lap or hand
and ignore your rabbits. They may ignore you to begin with or feel scared of you and dart
off. DON’T MOVE especially your hands!
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Eventually they will investigate you, usually within a few minutes. If they take too long and
you get bored, go, but leave a spring green leaf where you were sitting.

Do this two or three times a day, or at least once a day. The more you do it, the quicker they
will learn. Give them a chance, be patient and don’t get frustrated. Remember we are
naturally their enemy. Help them realize you are not a threat.
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If they don’t come up to you the first time, by leaving the pieces of vegetable, they will relate
you to nice food and it will encourage them to come to you.
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However long it takes them to come to you, once they have, the next stage is to get them
brave enough to hand feed from you, or your lap. They are most scared of our hands as
sadly the majority of rabbits are grabbed by their owners. Keep your hands really still. If
your rabbit is particularly timid, lean over the fence or feed through the fence, and sit the
other side, he will feel safer.

Once they are hand feeding DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO STROKE THEM! Rabbits fear our
hands mostly. If your rabbit won’t take food from your palm, try holding a long carrot or hold
a whole leaf of spring greens by the stem, it won’t seem as scary to him/her.

You can talk softly to your rabbits. Animals are so sensitive to our vibes, tone of voice and
emotions, especially rabbits given their big ears. They are so clever and easily learn simple
words with tone of voice; “good bunny” “well done” “no” “home” “food”.

During the investigation stage and hand feeding they will get braver but at times still be
unsure, teasing you, taking the food and running off, running up a few times then ignoring
you, but eventually they will stay for longer.

Once at this stage, where they should trust your hands, you are now at the stage to teach
them about stroking. Rabbits are naturally affectionate to one another. By having a pair you
will see them washing one another and where they like to be rubbed. Their backs can be
sensitive but they love their foreheads and ears being rubbed. Don’t go near their mouth,
you’ll only get bitten. Any rabbit can bite, even the sweetest, they can’t bark or meow, and if
we annoy them, sometimes biting is the only way to tell us they are not happy (or they may
think our finger is food!) We really must listen to them.

When hand feeding, hover the empty hand over the hand with food in. The only way for
your rabbit to get the food will be to push his head between your hands. Don’t push your
luck.
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
I know it’s tempting to start stroking, but don’t! Like with the hand feeding stage wait until
your rabbit happily eats out of your hand with the other one over him.

Now lower the hand above so that when your rabbit eats, your hand is touching his head.
He will be naturally rubbing his head on your hand. Now you can sneak a few strokes in. If
he worries stop and let him continue eating. Don’t panic or react, he’ll only wonder what you
are worried about - act as if none of it is a big deal.

In no time you will be stroking your rabbit's head. He will realize it feels good. Before you
know it he will be asking for strokes, not just food, but remember don’t get over excited and
don’t rush!

You can then stroke his whole body. All this may take only hours, or it could take days or
even weeks, but it is so rewarding and worth the wait.

Once your rabbits are happily letting you stroke them and sit with them and play with them,
you will be feeling more confident and you will be part of their group. They will trust you and
for you to be around them will be natural for them. You will have spent so much time with
them by now.

If you are on the floor with them they should be stepping onto your legs and even jumping
on you by now.
Picking Up Rabbits
When picking up a rabbit, remember that we are asking them to let us do something very unnatural to
them. They only know picking up as something that a predator does to them. It is advisable only to
pick up your rabbit when necessary i.e. for a health check. Rabbits can happily jump great heights for
fun, but their physiology means their backs can be easily broken if they fall or struggle out of our
arms.

When they are playing all over you, you can sneakily and gently cup them, try putting your
arms and hands all over them and around them without actually picking them off the floor.

Sit down, so they can climb onto your lap if they want to. Let them know they can hop off,
always incorporating small pieces of vegetables as treats to reinforce this as a positive
experience.

The rabbits should then climb into your arms, raise them a little at first close against your
chest, so they feel safe. Then kneel, if they feel comfortable put them down, with a
reassuring voice and treats. Then when they are happy to be held and cradled at this level,
stand up.
As you can see, there is far more to rabbit keeping, than just picking it up out of its hutch, petting it for
a few moments and shoving it back. By now you will understand why a rabbit will struggle if you do
this. You'll also understand how designing their accommodation so you can interact with them is
helpful and that allowing your rabbits indoors to sit on the sofa and watch TV with you, or play on the
floor while you check your e-mails or cook dinner really does help (do be careful about safety
regarding wires and hot food etc). Human relationships with rabbits can be so enriching they truly can
be part of the family and your best friend.
You should also now understand why they really are not the easy pet for children that people often
think they are. In many ways a cat, rat or guinea pig are easier pets for children. We do sometimes rehome rabbits to families, but only if the parents are interested in and understand rabbits, will be the
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main caregivers for the rabbits and will supervise all interactions between the rabbits and children and
lead by example.
REMEMBER – RABBITS DO NOT LIKE TO BE HELD!

Rabbits are ground loving animals.

Rabbits can break their backs if not supported properly. This is because unlike cats they
cannot support their backend weight.

Cats are designed to climb trees and balance on walls and fences, making them more
trusting when held and able to balance their back weight - rabbits are not and cannot.

We do not expect to hold dogs, why do we expect to hold rabbits?

We have fulfilling relationships playing with dogs on the floor and stroking them, why can’t
we with rabbits?
SUPERVISE YOUR CHILD AT ALL TIMES WHEN THEY ARE HOLDING A
RABBIT

Teach your child to enjoy playing with the rabbit on the floor.

Teach your child to NOT pick up the rabbit, or teach them to do it safely (and that they
should only do so occasionally). Most children under 12 years are not large enough to
safely pick up a rabbit.

The best method is to get the child to sit on the floor or on a chair and for an adult to place
the rabbit on the child’s lap on a towel while supporting the rabbit themselves as well.
Remember, if the rabbit does not feel he/she is on steady ground, he/she will feel unstable
and insecure.

Your child will learn from you. Respect and value the rabbits and your child will do the
same.
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RABBITS, CHILDREN AND HANDLING
(Also applies to adults!)
Over the last 10 years people have finally started to understand rabbits properly and appreciate them
as intelligent animals that make good pets for adults and are not disposable children’s toys as they
were kept since the First World War.
America and various European countries have been keeping rabbits in the house as family pets and
building relationships with them like cats and dogs for some time now. This gives the rabbits the same
freedom and choice, and finally acknowledging their natural instincts and needs. Their silent
language, which is displayed by movement, posture and facial expression rather than sound, (though
they can vocalise) is too often unnoticed. It is a great misconception that rabbits enjoy being held or
are easy to cuddle. Though they may look cute and soft and people seem to have a “need” to cuddle
them and feel it is part of “the deal” in having a pet rabbit more than other animals and feel their rabbit
is “in the wrong” or “inadequate” if it does not allow this or displays negative behaviour as if they are
being “naughty”.
Rabbits can bond with us as closely as a dog, but due to being prey animals it often takes longer and
requires different interaction and interpretation from us. We are predators, which is why we find it
easier to talk “dog” rather than “rabbit” but if we achieve this, the bond and achievement is far greater
which is why I see something very special when I see adults with their pet rabbits.
Rabbits were first kept by the Romans for meat and fur, then by the Normans. They kept rabbits in
walled gardens, but due to the inconvenience of catching them and controlling them, many years’ later
hutches were designed. Hutches allowed rabbits to be easily caught; large numbers kept in a small
space and control over pregnant does etc.
Rabbits were also used for breeding and for the entertainment of people before they were seen as
pets. As we all know they are primarily seen as children’s pets probably because of the history of what
they were kept for and how they were kept. People had no value or love for them as anything greater
and didn’t appreciate their intelligence or affection.
Rabbits are prey animals and whether they are domestic or wild they have the same instincts and
needs. They naturally live in pairs or groups over at least 0.6 acres and need plenty of boltholes and
hiding places to protect themselves from predators as well as loving the freedom to leap and bound.
Also like their wild relatives, domestic rabbits have a much healthier digestive system if they are fed a
natural diet of grasses, hays and vegetables. Only a few mono-component commercial feeds are
recommended to compliment this diet.
So, sadly the wrong environment, diet and image has been used for far too long, and it is this which
has caused rabbits to be unhappy, misunderstood and given up.
Rabbits are not stupid and can be litter trained, taught to come home when called, learn tricks taught
by rewarding with food, learn to come to you when called, cuddle up with you in bed like a cat, ask for
food and to be stroked, let you know they need the toilet and much more.
Rabbits all have the same potential to be loving and trusting towards us, but due to their different
experiences some take a lot longer than others, and a few are bombproof. In the wild they will also
have a hierarchy, and their place will be dependent on their genetics, which will also affect how they
behave towards us. To enable a positive relationship to grow between you and your rabbits follow our
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guidelines in the section “How to become best friends with your rabbits” but the main points to follow
with rabbits, general handling and interactions between rabbits and children are as follows;
Patience and perseverance are essential
Rabbits are extremely curious but very cautious
Quietness and gentleness from you bring trust from them
Rabbits will first investigate, and then move away for 'safety', if the human does not move the
rabbit WILL return!
If you move fast, jolt and make noise the rabbit will run away and hide
If you have had rabbits before and thought they were easy to handle, consider these
points:

Was it because the rabbit had no choice and cowered in the corner of the hutch
or small run while picked up?

Did you observe the rabbit's body language - its eyes were probably showing
white and popping out and its body stiff?

Was it uncomfortable, being handled carelessly/awkwardly?

Was it putting up with being handled through fear, prey instinct and
confusion/stress?

It probably jumped out of your arms or started to wriggle or nip. This is the rabbit
expressing distress. Even a confident rabbit will only tolerate being held for so
long.
Your rabbits probably became shy and withdrawn, trusting you less. Stamping
their feet and more difficult to approach, wanting to be left alone more, trying to
escape, run off or freezing.

Was it really sitting there willingly or was it just frozen with fear?
It is far better to teach your child to:

Hand feed the rabbit

Gently stroke its forehead, then down its back when ready
Sit on the floor (this is why we suggest making sure the rabbits' accommodation is
accessible to humans) and let the rabbit climb over your legs, lie down and let it climb on
your back. This will gain real trust.

It is of course important to check the rabbit’s bottom and do regular health checks, which
the adult should be responsible for.
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HOUSE RABBITS
Keeping rabbits in our homes, like we do our cats and dogs has become extremely popular, but there
are many things that need to be considered and organised to make it successful. Without various
measures in place it can be disastrous.
Some of the natural, instinctive rabbit behaviours can be destructive, ruining our home. Without
proper routine and a space of their own, they can become confused and aggressive or quiet,
overweight and subdued.
If you are able to allow them time outside to express and disperse their energy and natural instincts,
this can make them more content and calmer while indoors. Equally, providing you give them plenty of
'free range' time in the house while you are around to supervise, they can and will let off steam by
dashing around the house.
What to use on the floor of their enclosure is very important. Carpet although snug and comfy can
cause the fur to wear on their back feet and cause sore hocks (see page 15). A really good alternative
to carpet is foam floor tiles, the type that you get for children's outside play. It is a good idea to tape
over all of the joins with duct tape to stop any nibbling! It is also easy to wash these tiles if necessary.
Never put your rabbits onto a hard slippery floor such as lino or laminate as they will slip about and
this will cause them stress and possibly injury. Washable, non-slip matts can be bought cheaply and
are very useful on slippery floors.
The Rabbit Welfare Fund, previously known as The House Rabbit Association has plenty of good
advice and there are many excellent books available on keeping rabbits in the house. Below are some
basic guidelines, learnt through experience in keeping rabbits indoors and how I would like Rabbit
Residence rabbits to be treated if kept indoors.
Many adult bunny parents have beautiful homes with litter-trained rabbits and live in harmony
together, but there are measures that need to be taken to ensure it is successful.
1.
You will need to cover or hide all wires and electrics, which can be done with various wire
casings or strategically placing furniture.
2.
If you have expensive furniture, be prepared that it is likely to get chewed. You could place
coverings over the legs of wooden pieces but it may not look nice.
3.
The rabbits will need dark hiding places where they can feel safe (e.g. wooden nest boxes,
cardboard boxes with doors cut out, and tunnels.
4.
Routine is helpful
5.
Baby gates are useful (cover with mesh so the rabbits can’t get their heads stuck in the
wide gaps)
6.
Litter trays are needed for toileting. Hay must be placed in them and there are various
options for safe litter (see page 35).
7.
House rabbits need exactly the same diet as rabbits kept outside and it is still essential to
keep away from fattening treats. Some people feed pellets only as a treat, purely giving
their house rabbits different types of hay and vegetables. Too much fruit sugar, protein and
calcium with an indoor lifestyle can cause serious illnesses which can lead to death.
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8.
Rabbits should be allowed time outside when possible, this should be in a large secure run.
During the winter when it is more difficult to give them access to fresh grass, dried grass
(e.g. Readigrass) should be fed as part of their daily diet.
9.
While we prefer it if you have a garden for your rabbits to exercise in, if you live in a flat with
no access to a garden, we are happy to compromise on this point. Good indoor homes
where rabbits are valued and loved very deeply are far better than a home with a garden
where the rabbits are left outside and forgotten at the bottom of the garden.
HOME BASE FOR BUNNY
There is no point having a rabbit indoors if you are going to keep it caged, except for when you are
around. It would be just as cruel as keeping a rabbit outdoors in only a hutch. Indoor rabbits should
have access to a whole room or a big part of a room (at least 60 sq ft of space) at all times, and
preferably have access to more of the house when you are home. Puppy play pens can be useful to
create a safe but spacious area for use 24 hours a day and can be bought from pet shops or online.
You can use an indoor cage or a dog crate as a base within the room, or within the penned area
providing the rabbits are not shut into the cage/crate. However, the top of the cage or crate needs to
be covered with a piece of wooden board or a thick blanket because if the rabbits decide to jump on
top they could easily catch a leg between the bars, panic and injure themselves.
Providing safe bolt holes is essential so that the rabbits can hide if they feel worried. Wooden nest
boxes are the best option and we encourage owners to have at least one of these. Cardboard boxes
with doors cut out, and some tunnels will help make the area feel like a warren.
A good routine for house rabbits is to give them unlimited hay at all times and then spring greens in
the evening so that you can hand feed them thereby building up a trusting relationship. It is advisable
to feed less pellets due to the fact that over feeding pellets can cause weight gain and teeth not
wearing down correctly. Pellets can be fed as a treat, just giving two or three at a time. This will help
with ensuring they eat plenty of hay and vegetables and is much better for both their digestion and
also their teeth.
WHICH ROOM IS BEST FOR THE ‘BASE’
The ideal scenario is to keep the rabbits in a spare bedroom so that they have their own space and
peace and quiet. If this is not an option then use a room where there isn't constant traffic through the
room so that the rabbits can have some 'time out' if they feel like it. Conservatories are not a good
place to use as they can get dangerously hot in summer and cold in winter. The temperature in a
conservatory can change rapidly and rabbits do not cope well with rapid changes in temperature.
HOW TO PREVENT CHEWING OF FURNITURE/ TEACH “NO” TO YOUR RABBIT
See book called “Hop to it” by Samantha Hunter which you can buy from the RWA Shop.
NEVER HIT A RABBIT OR USE PUNISHMENT
Punishment should not be used on any animal but especially rabbits as they are prey animals and it
will only intensify fear which can lead to aggression. Think before you act; any hand movements could
be seen as a threat to them. Ignore bad behaviour, do not condition it.
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LITTER TRAINING YOUR HOUSE RABBIT
If you have chosen to have your rabbits living in the house alongside you then no doubt the first thing
you will want to know is how to house train them. One thing to be aware of is that if your rabbit is not
spayed or neutered then it will be virtually impossible to house train them properly. The chances are, if
you are reading this, you have adopted your rabbits from The Rabbit Residence Rescue and therefore
they will already be neutered or spayed when they come to you.
Rabbits go to the toilet in corners. A key strategy is to place litter trays in one or more corners of the
enclosure with some of their soiled bedding in them along with some clean hay to nibble on. Wait to
see where they favour as their 'toilet'. If they pick someone without a tray then move a tray to that spot
– put some of their soiled bedding into the tray so that they know that is where to go. You will most
likely find that they will still drop some pellets around the enclosure to start with but this is also
territorial marking. The main thing is to get them weeing in one place.
Another strategy is to initially line the whole enclosure with the bedding type that you will eventually
use just in the litter tray. As time goes on reduce the area lined with this bedding type in stages – the
rabbits should favour toileting on the bedding they are used to using.
Providing positive praise when the rabbits use the tray by giving a small treat such as a pellet or a
small piece of carrot may be helpful. Try the Rabbit Welfare Association’s or House Rabbit Society’s
websites for more tips if it needed.
You may have a scenario where you are bringing home a rescue bunny as a new friend for an
existing one. It is likely that your rabbit will have been away for either a few days or longer with his/her
new friend whilst they bond.
Your existing rabbit will no doubt have had an established toilet routine but it is very important to scrub
his/her litter tray(s) clean (preferably with white vinegar) to neutralise any scent so that your original
rabbit doesn't claim them as his/her territory. However, do put them back in the places your rabbit is
used to. If you can put some soiled litter of both rabbits into the clean litter tray(s) then so much the
better. You should find that your original rabbit will just revert to using the tray(s) as before and this
will encourage the new one to do the same.
You may find that one or both may have 'wee accidents' to start with and you will probably find that
they do poo everywhere as they will both be 'marking' their territory. Some perseverance is needed
with some rabbits but others will take to it easily and straight away.
It’s a good idea to use plastic cat baskets or two large trays. High sides help because they tend to
push their bottom against the sides and often when they lift their tails, they accidentally urinate over
the edge. Cat litter trays with a 'lip' around them are good.
When first litter training you need to leave the urine and poo in the tray for a few days to remind them
where their toilet is, but once trained you should change the litter regularly. On page 35 you will find
some information on what to use as litter.
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Litter Training Lapses
If an adult house rabbit that is usually well house trained starts to urinate frequently around the house,
this could indicate a urinary problem and the rabbit should be taken to your vet for a health check.
Urinary tract infections, urinary stones (calculi) or ‘sludge’ can cause urinary problems in rabbits.
Neurological or kidney damage caused by the parasite Encephalitozoan cuniculi (see earlier section)
can also cause urinary incontinence.
Housetraining behaviour may lapse in a male neutered adult rabbit if a female rabbit is introduced to
the family. The male rabbit may urinate and defecate around the house. This is normal rabbit territorial
behaviour and is often seen when new rabbits enter the home. Eventually the rabbit will stop territorial
marking when he bonds to the new arrival.
Urine spraying – this behaviour in rabbits is almost entirely dependent on hormones and often ceases
after the rabbit is neutered. Castrating or spaying an older adult rabbit will also help to stop the
spraying behaviour, as well as reducing the strong odour of the urine.
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DIFFERENT TYPES OF LITTER
Product
Type
Fibre/Virgi
n Wood
Pulp
Brand
Examples
Megazorb,
Carefresh
Suitability
Pros
Cons
Absorbent
can be
economical
(e.g.
megazorb)
Very
absorbent,
good for
odour
control
Very soft
underfoot
Can be a bit
messy if
rabbits are
diggers
Recycled
Paper
Pellets
Yesterday'
s News,
Biocatolet,
Back 2
Nature
Natural
Supersoft
Bedding
Litter Tray
Yes
Can be
more
expensive
than some
litters
Not very
absorbent
Grey pellets
Bedding/
Litter tray
Yes
EcoStraw,
Smartbedz
Litter tray
Yes
Absorbent,
good odour
control
Straw coloured
hard pellets
Bedding/
Litter tray
Yes
Reasonable
odour
control and
absorbency
Country
litter
Bedding/
Litter tray
Yes
Good to
forage in!
Card
based
FinaCard
Bedding/
Litter tray
Yes
Medical
bedding
Vetbed
Bedding
No
Can be
economical,
reasonable
absorbency
Expensive,
but suitable
if health/
mobility
issues.
Used by
vets
Pellets can
break down
when wet
and be
tracked
around
Fine hemp
can be
messy
(Bedolinum)
not too
absorbent
Not too
absorbent or
soft
underfoot
Uneven
surface
Hemp
based
Hemp
litter,
BedoLinu
m
Bark
based
Needs daily
washing at
high temp to
ensure no
bacterial
growth
Green backed
fluffy mat of
various
colours/size
Straw
based –
chopped
straw
Straw
based –
pellets
Bedding/
Litter tray
Safe if
ingested?
Yes
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What does it
look like?
Blobs of fibre,
small in some
(Megazorb),
bigger in others
Finely chopped
straw
Varies from fine
strands of fibre
to small chips
(Hemp litter)
Chipped bark
with other woody
bits in
Chopped card
Product
Type
Shavings*
(wood/pin
e/cedar
etc)
Brand
Examples
Various
Suitability
Safe if
ingested?
Yes
Pros
Cons
Economical
if bought in
a bale
Not
suitable
No
-
Various
Not
suitable
No
-
Clay
based
Catsan
Not
suitable
No
-
Clumping
Various
Not
suitable
No
-
Cloth
based
Various
Not
suitable
No
-
Can be
dusty,
reports of
respiratory/
skin issues*
Can swell in
the stomach
and if damp
grow toxic
mould
Effect of
scent
chemical not
known
Clay can
swell in
stomach,
dusty
Anything
that clumps
will swell in
the stomach
Could cause
blockages if
eaten
Corn
based
Worlds
Best Cat
Litter
Scented
litter or
beddings
Bedding/
Litter tray
What does it
look like?
Light shavings of
wood
Crushed corn
kernals
Various
Grey dusty clay
particles
Various
Shredded
j-cloths!!
* There is some mixed opinion around using wood shavings as bedding for rabbits. It can be dusty so
may not be ideal for rabbits with respiratory issues. Some people believe that it can cause liver/kidney
problems but there seems to be no real medical evidence of this with rabbits. Providing you have your
rabbits in a well-ventilated area, wood shavings are a reasonable option.
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Essential books every loving rabbit owner
who wants to learn and do the best for their
rabbits should have. The best information
and interesting facts at your fingertips!
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This particular book we have
lent out to many people who
have praised the book very
highly in helping them
understand how to interact and
interpret the silent language of
their pet rabbits bringing them
much closer and helping them
to recognise if they are happy
and healthy therefore
preventing illnesses
developing.
Fun, easy to read for adults
and children, with up-to-date
correct details on the modern
approach to keeping rabbits
and understanding them.
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RABBIT TOYS
Most people don't believe that rabbits like to play with toys but they do. Below are
some safe toys you can buy for your rabbits. Try www.thehayexperts.co.uk or the
RWA shop http://shop.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/ for safe toys. Tunnels are very popular
with most bunnies. (Avoid toys that have been glued together.)
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LIST OF VETS
(Please note that this list is in development. The Rabbit Welfare Association hold a list of rabbit
friendly vets and may be able to advise on good vets in your area.)
Cambridge Veterinary Group, 89a Cherry Hinton Road, Cambridge, 01223 249331
Iain Cope – Exotic Specialist
www.cambridgevetgroup.co.uk
Opening Hours are:
Monday – Friday 9am to 6.30pm
Saturdays 9am to 11.30am
Village Vet, 34 High Street, Longstanton, 01954 780027
Emma Bowman
www.villagevet-cambridge.co.uk/practice/longstanton
Opening Hours are:
Monday to Friday 8.30am to 7pm
Saturday 8.30am to 12 noon
Out of Hours emergency 0845 500 4247 (Vet24)
Village Vet, Stone Lane, Meldreth, Herts, SG8 6NZ, 01763 261457
Vanessa Nichols
www.villagevet-cambridge.co.uk/practice/meldreth
Opening Hours are:
Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm
Saturday 9am to 12 noon
Woolpack Veterinary Surgery, Bungingford By-pass, Buntingford, Herts, SG9 9FB, 01763 273707
www.thewoolpacksurgery.co.uk
Opening Hours are:
Monday to Friday 9am to 12 noon and 1pm to 7pm
Saturday 9.30am to 5pm
Sunday 10am to 12 noon
Out of Hours emergency ring 01763 273707 to speak to the vet on call
Haydon Veterinary Group, Gore Cross Veterinary Centre, Corbin Way, Bridport, Dorset, DT6 3UX,
01308 456808
Ollie
www.haydonvets.com
Opening Hours are:
Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm
Saturday 9am to 12pm
Out of Hours emergency ring 01308 456808
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