International Journal of Environment, Ecology,
Family and Urban Studies (IJEEFUS)
ISSN(P): 2250-0065; ISSN(E): 2321-0109
Vol. 7, Issue 2, Apr 2017, 1-12
© TJPRC Pvt. Ltd.
ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN
BANGLADESH: CONSTRAINT AND REMEDIATION
MOHAMMAD ZAKIR HOSSAIN KHAN
International Culture University, Bangladesh
ABSTRACT
The textile industries have become the backbone of the country’s economy but it also possesses threats
recently. There were several fire accidents in textile sector, which caused death of hundreds of workers and fires have
become common incidents. The textile building collapse of Savar in 2013 turned into a hot issue in Bangladesh as well
as in the rest of the world due to its thousands of labour deaths. Environmental management is the management of an
organization’s responsibility on its impacts on the environment. In another word, EMS is a set of processes and
practices that enable the organization to reduce its environmental impacts and increase its operating efficiency in a
systematic and cost-effective manner.
Two data gathering approaches literature review and questioner survey supported by semi-structured
questions which constitute the questionnaire, environmental situations of the companies were assessed under six areas,
General environmental policies and management practices, Perspective on the environmental legislations, General
waste management practices, Selection of production processes, systems and technologies considering environmental
pollution and Occupational health, safety and environmental performance. From study it was found that, poor
monitoring and enforcement of existing laws lead the factory owners to avoid proper environmental management
system. Beside pollution issue, many factory owners also do not follow the minimum safety regulations of the textile
Original Article
interviews were followed in this study. Surveys were responded by 26 companies in the target region. Based on the
industries, because there is no proper policy or concrete labour and trade union policy in this sector, most of the
factory owners take it as advantages and want to have more profits without investing sufficiently for workplace safety
of workers.
KEYWORDS: Sustainability, Environment, Safety & EMS, UNGC, etc.,
Received: Jan 24, 2017; Accepted: Feb 02, 2017; Published: Feb 10, 2017; Paper Id.: IJEEFUSAPR20171
INTRODUCTION
Textile industries are playing vital role for rapid economical development in Bangladesh. Exporting of
textiles and garments are the principal source of foreign exchange earnings. The world’s second largest apparel
exporter of western brands is Bangladesh. It is also noted that, very few of textile factories are owned by foreign
investors, with most of the production being controlled by local investors. The Bangladeshi Textile Industry is
one of the most critical sectors in Bangladesh in terms of contribution to the gross domestic product (GDP),
employment generation and net exports.
Before liberation war of Bangladesh, when Bangladesh was a part of Pakistan, from 1947 to 1971 the
textile industries, like most industries in East Pakistan, were largely owned by West Pakistanis. In the 1960s,
local Bengali entrepreneurs had set up their own large textile and jute factories. After liberation war in 1971, the
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Mohammad Zakir Hossain Khan
newly formed Bangladesh lost access to both capital and technical expertise, stated by Lorch, Klaus (1991). After the
liberation, by focusing on the textile and clothing industry, particularly the readymade garment (RMG) sector, Bangladesh
adopted export oriented industrialization stated in Dictionary of Genocide: A-L. Volume 1 by Totten, Samuel et al.
Major fires in textile industry at Bangladesh, resulting in hundreds of deaths. A fire broke out on 24 November
2012, in the Tazreen Fashion factory in Dhaka stated by Anbarasan, Ethirajan (2012). 117 people died and 200 injured
stated by Ahmed, Farid (2012). In the history of Bangladesh, it was the deadliest factory fire stated by Ahmed, Anis and
Paul, Ruma (2012). Pennington, Matthew (2013) stated in US suspends Bangladesh trade privileges after textile industry
disaster that, President Barack Obama announced that U.S. trade privileges for Bangladesh, the Generalized System of
Preferences, were suspended following the deadly 24 April 2013 collapse of Rana Plaza, considered to be the global textile
industry’s worst accident in June 2013.
Reference to the World Commission on Environment and Development (1987), the term sustainability is defined
as “development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their
needs”. The concept, sustainability is immensely valuable considering an ultimate objective. Initiatives for sustainable
development needed to translate conceptual theories into practical reality, and require a more radical assessment of
environmental strategy. Challenges that faces the economic system is to continue to fulfil its vital role within modern
society whilst ensuring sustainability reported by Netherwood, A. (1996). Meadows D. H. et al. (1972) and Steffen W. et
al. (2004) stated that, among scientists of various fields, there is an increasing consensus that society is currently on a
long-term unsustainable course. Robert G. (1995) stated that, the businesses and environment are getting essentially
connected to each other, where the future of each one depends on approach of other. That describes the definition of
sustainability and meaning of sustainable development.
All environmental issues are inter-related as they either result from the consumption of resources by society or the
waste generated from the use of those resources. To voluntarily implement environmental policy an environmental
management system (EMS) is one of the effective tools which industries can use. EMS consists of interrelated elements
that function as one to help a organization to manage, measure, and improve the environmental aspects of its operations
(Netherwood, A., 1996). Activity includes preparation of environmental policies, setting objectives and targets,
implementing programs to achieve those objectives and targets, monitoring and measuring the effectiveness of the
programs, correcting problems, if any, and reviewing the programs and their overall performance for improvement thereof
(Netherwood, A., 1996). United Nation Global Compact (UNGC) encourages businesses worldwide to adopt sustainable
and socially responsible policies and to report on their implementation (www.unglobalcompact.org) followed by the
c o r p o r a t e s o c i a l r e s p o n s i b i l i t y ( CSR) approach. The environment aspect of CSR that is based on cleaner
production and EMS also satisfies the following three of the ten principles to be met by the businesses in the area of
environment.
•
Principle 7: Support a precautionary approach to environmental challenges;
•
Principle 8: Undertake initiatives to promote environmental responsibility; and
•
Principle 9: Encourage the development and diffusion of environmentally friendly technologies.
EMS is similar with the 7th Goal of the MDGs defined as “ensuring environmental sustainability”,
particularly the target of integrating the principles of sustainable development into country policies and programmes
Impact Factor (JCC): 3.7216
NAAS Rating: 3.58
Environmental Management System of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: Constraint and Remediation
3
and reversing the loss of environmental resources.
OBJECTIVES OF THE RESEARCH
Lack of knowledge about environmental awareness and workplace safety has brought about the necessity of an
assessment study on textile industry awareness and performance on environmental issues. The research mainly aimed to
implement and complete the following tasks:
•
To make an analysis of existing policies.
•
To identify the environment of working.
•
To analysis of the findings from the survey, company visits, direct interviews and business models and detailed
assessment.
•
To focus on eco-friendly production process.
The study can lead towards a new era of textile industries of Bangladesh. It will reduce to have further hazard in
this sector.
METHODS AND MATERIALS
Figure 1: Study Area (Courtesy Google)
Main two data gathering approaches literature review and questioner survey supported by semi-structured
interviews were followed in this study. Literature was reviewed in order to compile reliable information on environmental
responsibility in textile industry in addition to the general overview of the current situation of Bangladesh textile
industry. By this way a conceptual framework was developed prior to the analyses of the detailed survey study.
Assessment of the environmental issues in textile industry, with a special focus on target region, Savar Upazila of Dhaka
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Mohammad Zakir Hossain Khan
district has an area about 280.12 sq km, located in between 23°44' and 24°02' north latitudes and in between 90°11' and
90°22' east longitudes (figure 1).
Based on the questions (and the themes) which constitute the questionnaire, environmental situations/
performances of the companies were assessed under five areas:
•
General environmental policies and management practices
•
Perspectives on the environmental legislations
•
General waste management practices
•
Monitoring and management of resources/ wastes for minimization at source
•
Environmental performance
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
For the case of Bangladesh, there is not sufficient data available concerning environmental aspects and impacts
of textile industry; however, it is certain that there are vast quantities of water, energy, and resource consumption.
Following data’s were collected from garments and textile industry around Savar area•
ISO 14001 certification status. The ISO 14001, standard for Environment Management System (EMS) an
internationally recognised environmental management standard which was first published in 1996. To manage the
immediate and long term environmental impacts of an organisation’s products, services and processes, it is a
systematic framework. Europe is accredited to certify environmental management system followed by the ISO
14001 standard.
•
Environmental policy. The commitment of an organization to the laws, regulations, and other policy mechanisms
concerning environmental issues focused by policy. The 1992 Rio conference was an important catalyst for policy
development on sustainable development by positive consideration of the international business community.
The Rio Plus 5 conference and more recently the World Summit on Sustainable Development were additional
catalysts for continued policy work.
•
Environmental clearance certificate from Department of Environment, Bangladesh. According to Environment
Conservation Rules 1997, it is mandatory for all textile industries to obtain environmental clearance certificate from
Department of Environment, Bangladesh.
•
Environmental management plan. Detailed studies of environmental impacts and design of safeguards reflected by
environmental management plan. Main two issues are implementation of environmental safety measures and
monitoring of effectiveness of built-in safeguards.
•
Environmental monitoring plan. It can be defined as the systematic sampling of air, water, soil, and biota in order to
observe and study the environment, as well as to derive knowledge from this process.
•
Uses of water for production. Quantity of water use for production purpose only.
Impact Factor (JCC): 3.7216
NAAS Rating: 3.58
Environmental Management System of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: Constraint and Remediation
•
5
Status of effluent treatment plant (ETP). Wastewater generated from industry called effluent. Water pollution will
take place if effluent directly discharges without treatment to surface water. Therefore it requires proper treatment
before discharge. Total treatment process of effluent is termed as effluent treatment plant.
•
Type of boiler and generator. Textile industries in Bangladesh mainly use two types of fuel in boiler and generator.
These fuels are natural gas and diesel.
•
Waste management procedure. It is collection, transportation, and disposal of garbage, sewage and other waste
products.
•
PPEs (personal protective equipments) for worker. Protective clothing, helmets, goggles, or other garments or
equipment designed to protect the wearer's body from injury or infection is termed as PPEs. According to
Bangladesh Labour Rules (67), factory will have to supply PPE to all workers according to the needs.
•
Fire license status. It is a legal document that offers proof of compliance with country laws.
•
Emergency preparedness plan. It is the way of action developed to mitigate the damage of potential events that
could endanger an organization's ability to function.
•
Training facility for worker regarding environmental issues. The action of teaching a person or animal a particular
skill or type of behaviour is called training.
•
Medical centre and child care centre.
Surveys were responded by 26 factories in the target region. Based on the questions (and the themes) which
constitute the questionnaire, environmental situations of the companies were assessed under six areas:
•
General environmental policies and management practices
•
Perspective on the environmental legislations
•
General waste management practices
•
Selection of production processes, systems and technologies considering environmental pollution
•
Monitoring and management of resources/ wastes for minimization at source
•
Occupational health, safety and environmental performance
General Environmental Policies and Management Practices
From study (figure 2 to 5), it was found that, only two factories are ISO 14001 certified. Few are planning for ISO
14001 certification. It was also found that, all of those factories have their environmental policy and environmental
management plan but only two ISO 14001 certified factories implementing their environmental policy and following
environmental management plan. During study, all factories found to have emergency preparedness plan but only sixteen
of them are following it. It can be noted that, those two ISO 14001 certified factories only implementing environmental
policy. After Rana Plaza Collapse tragedy in Bangladesh (24 April 2013 in Savar Upazila of Dhaka, Bangladesh), most of
the textile factories has developed their emergency preparedness plan due to pressure of foreign buyers.
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Mohammad Zakir Hossain Khan
Figure 2: ISO 14001 Certification
Figure 4: Environmental Management Plan
Figure 3: Environmental Policy
Figure 5: Emergency Preparedness Plan
Winkler T et al. stated that the most important standards for the EU eco-audit directive which is also abbreviated
as EMAS (Eco Management and Audit Scheme) and international standard ISO 14001. Vandevivere PC et al. (1998) and
Melnyk SA et al. (2003) stated that implementation of an environmental management system leads to cost reduction,
quality improvement, waste reduction due to re-design, proper equipment selection, in addition to time savings.
Perspective on the Environmental Legislations
During study, environmental clearance certificate from Department of Environment, Bangladesh and fire license
from Bangladesh Fire Service and Civil Defence Authority status of the factories were observed. 26 factories were
surveyed and found both of the clearance certificates for all of those factories. Santos‐Reyes, D.E. and Lawlor‐Wright, T.
(2001) and Psomas, E.L. et al. (2011) reported that the need for companies to effectively address environmental issues has
increased due to either external (government regulations) or internal reasons (company's policy).
Figure 6: Environmental Clearance Certificate and Fire License
Impact Factor (JCC): 3.7216
NAAS Rating: 3.58
Environmental Management System of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: Constraint and Remediation
7
General Waste Management Practices
During study it was found that, 14 factories out of 26 factories using water for its production. 2 of those 14
factories do not have any effluent treatment plant (ETP). And 6 out of those 14 factories told that, there ETP is under size
and non-functional ETP. Waste management procedure found for all 26 factories but proper implementation found in only 2
factories. Z. Khatri and K. M. Brohi (2011) stated that design of the actual treatment system for effluent treatment involves
selection of alternative processes based on the ability of individual treatment processes to remove specific waste
constituents. It was further found that, two ISO 14001 certified factories are only implementing waste management
procedure properly.
Figure 7: ETP status
Figure 8: Waste Management Procedure Implementation Status
Selection of Production Processes, Systems and Technologies Considering Environmental Pollution
Out of 26 factories it was also found that, 20 factories are using both gas and diesel generator and 6 factories are
using only diesel generator. In developed countries consumers are demanding biodegradable and ecologically friendly
textiles stated by Chavan, R.B. (2001). Generally gaseous emission from diesel generator is higher than gas generator. But
due to continuous unavailability of gas, people like to use diesel generator. Rock MT and Angel DP (2007) stated that
textile industry is associated with both energy intensive and highly polluting.
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Figure 9: Type of generator use
Monitoring and Management of Resources and Wastes for Minimization at Source
From survey documents, it was found that, all of the industries have environmental monitoring plan. Only 2 of
2 6 f a c t o r i e s are following monitoring plan and implementing waste minimization procedure. Those 2 factories are ISO
14001 certified. Without having monitoring plan, it is not possible to ensure sustainable development.
Figure 10: Environmental Monitoring Plan Status
Occupational Health, Safety and Environmental Performance
It was found that, only 2 factories (those are ISO 14001 certified) providing appropriate PPE at workplace, 14
industries providing PPE for its worker but not appropriate and rest 10 factories provide very less amount of PPE to its
workers. Considering environmental training issue, it was found that, only two ISO 14001 certified factories arrange
training on workplace safety and environment for its workers and rest 24 factories does not arrange. Medical centre and
child care centre found in most of the factories. It was found that, 19 factories have medical centre and 12 factories have
child care centre for its workers.
Figure 11: Status of using PPE
Impact Factor (JCC): 3.7216
NAAS Rating: 3.58
Environmental Management System of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: Constraint and Remediation
9
Figure 12: Training status
Figure 13: Medical Centre and Child Care Centre
Towlson (2003) stated that environment protection is comprised in two types, first is the internal environment at
the workplace and it is related to overall condition in the workplace and second are the harmful conditions which are
present in the external environment outside the workplace. Shikdar, A.A. and Sawaqed, N. M. (2003) further stated that the
productivity of the workers reduces and quality of work and product cost increases due to workplace hazard. Training is of
very importance in environmental management to increase awareness among all employer, employee and worker. Nurn, C.
W. and Tan, G. (2010) found that more participative organizational governance, trainings and volunteerism programs
create various learning opportunities for employees and induce a process of developing employee’s competencies, skills
and knowledge.
Benefits of Environmental Management Systems
Major priority of EMS is that the organization shall establish, implement and maintain a procedure to identify and
have access to the applicable legal requirements and other requirements to which the organization subscribes related to its
environmental aspects (clause 4.3.2, ISO 14001:2004 standard). The activity of an organization selects to measure
improvement can vary widely and depends on the factory’s compliance history and regulatory burden. Legal requirements of
Bangladesh are quite similar to . There has also guideline of environmental management for industries in Bangladesh
(attached with annex-2), therefore management can use an EMS to monitor the legal requirements and monitor to ensure
compliance with the law. EMS can also assist a company to prepare for a more stringent application of environmental
regulations by the government and also reduce operating cost. Zutshi, A. and Sohal, A.S. (2004) stated that organisations
that apply for an EMS certification build a system through which environmental protection can be integrated into daily
management and long term goals. Adopting an EMS lead to a decrease in environmental impacts and the more sustainable
use of natural resources with improved economic performance of the organisation.
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RECOMMENDATIONS
The following recommendations for textile process should be considered for a better practice.
•
Policy for the cleaner production should be developed and implemented and framework legislation on cleaner
production must be prepared and put into effect.
•
Specific services such as training, counselling, audits, etc. should be provided for general environmental
management, new and
potential
regulations and cleaner production approach including
monitoring,
benchmarking and environmental performance indicators.
•
Industries should construct functional ETP and operate them regularly. No water should be discharged without
proper treatment.
•
Need to make initiatives for all textile industries to adopt cleaner and efficient production.
•
All textile industries need to consider new set up rules. New textile industries should be permitted by government
only in specific zones and not in residential or commercial areas.
•
Adaptation of waste minimization can provide a significant decrease of pollution amount as well as production
costs.
•
All workers need regular check up of health by the company employed doctor.
•
Ensure to have sufficient fire prevent equipment and fire exist doors in each factory.
•
Need to check electrical equipment, outlets, wires and dust free clean electrical outlets regularly.
•
Make own inspection group for regular checking the safety issues and risk factors.
•
Confirm better and safer environment for the workers.
•
BTMEA membership should be given only after meeting the criteria of environmental and workplace safety
standard.
•
Government need to prepare a concrete textile policy for sustainability.
•
Government need to prepare a special policy and taskforce for inspection for standard factory building.
•
Workers are the main part of a factory, at it cannot run in a single day without their contribution and work skill.
Therefore first priority should be workers health and safety issues. Workplace environment should be comfortable
for them.
•
Awareness develops and capacity building and activities should be carried out for all stakeholders starting with
the public institutions at national, regional and sectoral levels, in relation to the environmental issues of the textile
industry.
CONCLUSIONS
The lifeline of the Bangladesh economy is the textile industry. After liberation war of Bangladesh, the garments
and textile industry has become the single dominant exporting sector and it is the main export products in terms of
Impact Factor (JCC): 3.7216
NAAS Rating: 3.58
Environmental Management System of Textile Industry in Bangladesh: Constraint and Remediation
11
currency earning. As the textile sector has become the backbone of the economy of the country, it needs to have high
initiatives for future stability and sustainability. Most of the foreign buyers are concerning about the environment issues
and demand more environment friendly products, in a word, cleaner production.
Textiles companies are confronted with a number of significant environmental and social challenges. None of the
challenges are unfeasible, but if not effectively addressed and managed, they will hurt not only environment, but also
business operations and profitability. An environmental management system simply extends that approach to managing the
impact of business has on the environment and the working conditions at facility. It is important that, government, private
organizations and the factory owners will take responsible initiatives and to work for the better working environment in
order to enrich a satisfactory position in terms of sustainability.
As shown in the results obtained by the analyses using the survey data and environmental measures by facilities
was clarified in this study, and various factors were examined to see constraint and remediation of environmental
management system of textile industry in Bangladesh. Furthermore, the research findings and recommendation would be of a
great use to the policy makers, urban authorities, planners, researchers and students as well as to the environmentalists taking
action in future research and development and also in all decision making on matters pertaining to environmental management
system. Thus it could help to create a sustainable environment.
Although on the short term, the analysis of this study indicates importance of environmental management system
in textile industry and poor environmental management system of textile industry in Bangladesh , it is recommended that
the analysis be repeated with larger in the field site studies be conducted to explore of sustainable development.
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Impact Factor (JCC): 3.7216
NAAS Rating: 3.58