Plans for Constructing Compost Bins
Wooden-Pallet Holding Unit
A holding unit can be built inexpensively using wooden pallets, or pressure-treated lumber may be used
to make a nicer looking bin. The costs will vary, depending on whether new lumber or pallets are used.
Used pallets are often available from manufacturers and landfills.
Building a Holding Unit Using Wooden Pallets
1. Nail or wire four pallets together to make a four-sided bin at least 3
feet x 3 feet x 3 feet. The bin is then ready to use.
2. A fifth pallet can be used as a base, to allow more air to get into the
pile and to increase the stability of the bin.
Building a Holding Unit Using Lumber
1. Saw the two 8-foot lengths of 2 x 4 pressure-treated lumber into
four pieces, each 4 feet long, to be used as corner posts
2. Choose a 3-foot-square site for your compost bin. Use the sledge
hammer to pound the four posts into the ground 3 feet apart, at the
corners of the square.
3. Saw each of the five 12 foot boards into four 3 foot pieces. Allowing five boards to a side and starting at the bottom, nail the boards to
the posts to make a four-sided container. Leave 2 inches between the
boards to allow air to get into the pile.
4. If you wish to decrease your composting time, build a second
holding unit so that the wastes in one can mature while you add wastes
to the other.
Materials
• four wooden pallets
(Five pallets if you
want a bottom in the
container), sized to
make a four-sided
container at least 3
feet x 3 feet x 3 feet
• nails
• baling wire
or
two eight-foot lengths
of 2 x 4 pressuretreated lumber
• five 12-foot lengths
of 1 x 6 pressuretreated lumber
• galvanized 8d nails (1
pound)
Tools
• saw
• sledge hammer
• claw hammer
• work gloves
Wire-Mesh Holding Unit
A wire-mesh holding unit is inexpensive and easy to build out of either galvanized chicken wire or
hardware cloth. (Nongalvanized chicken wire can also be used, but will not last very long.)
Posts provide more stability for a chicken wire bin, but make the bin difficult to move. A wiremesh bin made without posts is easy to lift, and provides access to the compost that is already
“done” at the bottom of the pile while the compost at the top is still decomposing.
Materials
• at least a 10-foot
length of 36-inch-wide
1-inch glavanized
chicken wire
or
• at least a 10-foot
length of 1/2-inch-wide
hardware cloth(Note:
The maximum bin
diameter for a given
length of chicken wire
is the length of the
chicken wire divided by
3.14.)
• heavy wire for ties
• three or four 4-foot-tall
wooden or metal posts
(for chicken wire bin).
Tools
• heavy-duty wire or tin
snips
• pliers
• hammer (for chickenwire bin)
• metal file (for hardware
cloth bin)
• work gloves
Building a Wire-Mesh Holding Unit Using Chicken Wire
1. Fold back 3 to 4 inches of wire at each end of the cut piece to
provide a strong, clean edge that will not poke or snag, and that will
be easy to latch.
2. Stand the wire in a circle and set it in place for the compost pile.
3. Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the
chicken wire together with the wire ties, using pliers.
4. Space wood or metal posts around the inside of the chicken-wire
circle. Holding the posts tightly against the wire, pound them firmly
into the ground to provide support.
Building a Wire-Mesh Holding Unit Using Hardware Cloth
1. Trim the ends of the hardware cloth so that the wires are flush with
a cross wire to get rid of edges that could poke or scratch hands.
Lightly file each wire along the cut edge to ensure safe handling when
opening and closing the bin.
2. Bend the hardware cloth into a circle, and stand it in place for the
compost pile.
3.Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the
hardware cloth together with the wire ties, using pliers.
Wooden-Three-Bin Turning Unit
This turning unit is a permanent, sturdy structure, but it may be difficult to space the posts to the
exact dimensions illustrated. Before cutting the removable slats that slide into the grooves at
the front of each bin, cut one slat and check for proper fit in each bin.
Materials
Building a Wooden-Three Bin Turning Unit
1. On level ground, set the eight posts as shown below using a
post hole digger. (The posts are shown as darkened squares).
Embed each post 2 feet into the ground. Be sure all posts are
plumb (perpendiculer to the ground). The top of each post
should be at the same distance above the ground (48 inches).
[Note: Dimensions given for
the back are included to
assist in post spacing.]
2. Nail (or screw) on the back and side slats and dividers (predrill all holes to prevent splitting). Use adhesive on all joints.
The bottom slats should be at ground level. Leave 1 1/2-inch
horizontal spaces between slats. Note the ends of the dividers
should come out to 1 inch behind the front of the front posts, as
shown in the illustrations above.
3. Install the fronts and cleats, as shown for one
of the center divider posts at right.
4. After the front slats have been sized and cut,
slide them into place between the fronts and
cleats as shown in the completed bin illustration
above.
(All lumber should be pressuretreated)
• eight 4-inch x 4-inch x 6-foot
posts
• seven 1-inch x 6 inch x 12-foot
back slats
• fourteen 1-inch x 6 inch x
4-foot end/side slats
• four 1-inch x 6-inch x 4-foot
fronts
• fourteen 1-inch x 6-inch x
46 1/4-inch dividers
• twenty-four 1-inch x 6-inch x
42 13/16-inch (approximate)
front slats
[Note: before cutting all the
front slats, cut one and check
for proper fit in each bin]
• four 1-inch x 1(+)-inch x
4-foot cleats, rip cut from
one 4-foot 1 x 6 (the cleats
are retainers for slats)
• 8d galvanized deck nails or
screws
• one tube exterior
construction adhesive
• (optional) one 1-inch x
6-inch x 12-foot top rail
Tools
• post hole digger
• hammer
• saw
• tape measure
• drill
• adhesive gun
5. (Optional) Nail or screw the top rail to each front post, as shown in the completed bin illustration above.
Do not use adhesive, and do not drive the nails in fully, as they will be removed to allow access to slats.
The top rail is suggested to prevent the front posts from moving laterally. Another option to discourage the
lateral movement of the posts is to use 4-inch x 4-inch x 7-foot posts and embed them one foot deeper.
Snow-Fence Holding Unit
A snow-fence holding unit is simple to make. It works best with four posts pounded into the ground for
support.
Materials
• four wooden or metal
posts, 4-5 feet long
(Use pressure-treated
or plastic lumber for
the wooden posts.)
• heavy wire for ties
• a 13-foot length of
snow fencing, at least
3 feet tall
Tools
• heavy-duty wire or
tin snips
• pliers
• sledge hammer
• work gloves
Building a Snow-Fence Holding Unit
1. Choose a 3-foot square site for your holding unit, and pound the
four wooden or metal posts into the ground 3 feet apart, at the corners
of the square.
2. Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the snow fence to
the outside of the posts with the wire tires, using pliers.
3. Attach the ends of the snow fence together in the same way, forming
a 3-foot square enclosure.
Garbage Can Composter
A garbage can composter is inexpensive and easy to build. It can be used for food or garden wastes.
The wastes do, however, need to be turned.
Materials
• garbage can with
cover
• coarse sawdust,
straw, or wood chips
Building a Garbage-Can Composter
1. Drill three rows of holes 4 to 6 inches apart all around the sides of the
garbage can. Then drill several holes in the base of the garbage can.
The holes allow air movement and the drainage of excess moisture.
Tools
• drill
• pitch fork, shovel, or
compost turner
• work gloves
2. Place 2 or 3 inches of dry sawdust, straw, or wood chips in the bottom of the can to absorb excess
moisture and let the compost drain.
Heaps
Heap composting is similar to turning-unit and holding-unit
composting except that it does not require a structure. As
illustrated in Figure 1, a heap should measure about 5 feet wide
and 3 feet high: its length will vary depending upon the amount
of materials used. Materials can be added as they become
available, or stockpiled until sufficient materials are available to
make a good sized heap. It is best to have two heaps. When
the first one is large enough, it should be allowed to decompose undisturbed. Additional waste can then be added to the
second heap.
The pile may be turned regularly, or not at all. If the heap will
be turned, vegetative waste can be composted along with yard
waste. If the pile will not be turned, adding vegetative waste
may attract pests. Covering the heap with a layer of yard
waste, mulch, or soil will help prevent moisture loss and may
reduce pest problems.
Compost Application Guidelines
Landscape Use
Approximate Rate
Comments
(lbs/1,000 sq. ft.)
Lawn and athletic
field establishments
3,000 to 6,000 (1 to 2 inches)
Incorporate into top 4
to 6 inches of soil
Lawn topdressing
400 to 800 (1/8 to 1/4 inch)
Broadcast uniformly
on grass surface
Shrub and tree
maintenance
200 to 400 (1/16 to 1/4 inch)
Work into soil or use
as a mulch
Container mix
Not more than 1/3 by volume
Blend with perlite,
vermiculite, sand or
bark
The application of compost, as a mulch, around a tree.
Credit: Materials are reprinted, 2/95 with the permission from the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection and the Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service.