Setting things up to enjoy the rides of your dreams:
Why do we shim?
When people ask:
“If your saddles are supposed to be so
great, why do you need to shim them?”,
we understand why they would wonder.
It seems counter-intuitive within the
traditional frames of reference for
saddle fitting...but our experimentation
on countless breeds and sizes of horses
proved that horses were happier if we
built the saddles too big for their stationary backs.
That means that we must take responsibility for managing the “interface”,
between the saddle and the horse ‘s
moving parts if we want to get the most
out of these revolutionary saddles.
When people say, “I really don’t want to
shim...I just want to get on and ride”, we
pose the question, “If you love someone, wouldn’t you take just a moment
to fluff the pillows for them?”
Letitia Glenn demonstrates how to look at your horse’s body and determine
where shims (shims will be placed inside the saddle pad) would add the
right amount of connection under a saddle built with room for the horse to
use his back properly.
Eventually, the long center shim (which fills in for the damaged long center
back muscles on this horse until he can strenthen/re-develop them) will be
removed and just the shoulder shim would be necessary.
See diagrams on this website and demos on Parelli Saddles YouTube.
How can you be CONFIDENT
that your Parelli Saddle will fit your horse?
It is highly unlikely that a Parelli saddle would not fit your horse.
Our extensive experience has shown that it is critical that your saddle NOT lock down tight onto your horse’s back
shape when he is standing still, sit too far forward on his body nor dump rider weight on his forehand.
We have been passionately scientific about designing Parelli saddle systems to help you AND your horse achieve
optimum performance and comfort.
As a result of more than a decade of research, development and testing on thousands of horses, we have created
saddles that can fit almost every breed and back type, so that they ENHANCE your relationship during your pursuit
of excellence in the Parelli Freestyle and Finesse riding Savvys.
We are all familiar with saddles that DETRACT from our relationships with our horses! We build our saddles with
the room your horse needs when moving.
SHIMS under the saddle help customize your saddle system to accommodate your horse’s particular back shape.
(Note the simple diagrams and comparison photos on subsequent pages to help you understand how to assess
your horse’s back type, choose appropriate shims and position them effectively). Use just 1 or 2 in most cases.
You’ll be amazed by what a difference it makes!
Use the CHECKLISTS (on the next pages) as your guide to understanding the basic principles
involved in taking care of the biomechanical needs of your horse and yourself when riding.
You should BOTH feel VERY comfortable, and your horse will thank you!
The TOOLS for interfacing between saddle and horse:
We recommend using shims inside the special pockets designed into technically superior saddle pads to
1. Help facilitate horse’s scapula clearance to enable full range strides
2. Help rider access Balance Point security
3. Insure comfort for horse and rider.
We strive to use as few shims as possible...1 or 2 sets is usually sufficient. We aim for 1.
It is rare to need more than 3 sets at one time, and horse’s backs should improve with our saddle systems,
so you will likely remove shims as this happens.
Our 2 SADDLE PADS:
Illustrations on subsequent pages are simulations showing shim placement on top of the pads.
In reality, shims belong inside the pad’s pockets. Always place shims in position on TOP of the air cells in the Theraflex or SmartFoam
Inserts in the Smart Pad. Note: Western air cells are longer in size than English ones, due to length of Western tree bars.
Please see more technical information in the Saddle/Pad section of this website. We highly recommend our revolutionary THERAFLEX™ non-slip pad system for many situations. Our ongoing testing of a variety of products has led to the
development of our SMART PADTM, which contains SmartFoam inserts that conform / compress for optimal comfort for
long hours in the saddle, trail/endurance and hi-pressure performance sports. SMART PAD seems more forgiving if you
have been having issues with dry spots. Its thermo-dynamic fibres woven beneath the natural wool underside insure
oxygenated blood flow and more.
Above: Smart Pads (left) and Theraflex pads (right) illustrations showing some suggested shim positions typical for certain back types. See more further on in this section
Our SHIMS: All shims (Foam or Felt) come as a SET of 2 (one for each side of the horse) of any particular shape.
Our favorites are TheraFOAM (tapered, closed-cell, perfect density), sometimes in combination with our TheraFELT
shims (which we have also used successfully by themselves for many years).
TheraFELT Shims
TheraFOAM Shims Foam is generally better in the SMART PAD than Felt.
Thick (black strap) = 1/2”
Thin (red strap) = 1.4”
5/8” at thickest portions, with beveled ends
SHOULDER: 10” x 6.75”,
5/8” thick on round edge,
tapering to 0 on other end
CENTER: 14” x 6”,
REAR: (can also be used
5.8” in center,
at Shoulder): 9.5” x 7”
tapering to 0 on each end 5/8” thick on round edge,
tapering to 0 on other end
Below:
Set of 3, viewed from above, showing advantage of taper for smooth transition
SHOULDER, Thick: 7.75” x 6.75” x 1/2” CENTER Thick: 12” x 5” x 1/2”
SHOULDER, Thin: 7.75” x 6.75” x 1/4”
CENTER Thin: 12” x 5” x 1/4”
Our research has indicated consistently that all breeds, including gaited and short-backed horses benefit tremendously when we employ Parelli saddles, practices and tools.
KEEP IT SIMPLE when shimming your saddle:
Start with BASIC SHIM PATTERNS for your horse’s BASIC BACK SHAPE.
See helpful photos, diagrams and checklises on following pages.
Copyright 2014 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles, LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 1
Checklist #1:
PREPARATION BEFORE YOU SADDLE:
your horse’s BASIC BACK SHAPE:
1 KNOW
Observe/compare horse’s topline profile/posture to these 3:
DOWNHILL
UPHILL
(WITHERS are LOWER than croup)
(WITHERS are HIGHER than croup)
HOLLOW
(CENTER area sags much LOWER)
Horse can be Uphill, Downhill or Level
Please, also notice if your horse’s Downhill or Uphill posture includes any sag in the center or muscle
atrophy issues. It will be necessary to shim your saddle to address this, whether sag is shallow or deep.
the location of the back edges of your horse’s SCAPULA: It will move back when
2 KNOW
the leg reaches forward in stride. You can simulate this by lifting leg and pulling it gently forward.
1. When horse is standing still: Feel (gently) for the back edge of the
scapula with fingertips...mark it or remember
2. Find scapula’s maximum backswing point:
Feel it as it swings back when you lift foreleg and pull it forward...mark spot
A saddle placement MUST: Be certain that the stirrup bar is
located
BEHIND
that max
backswing
point.
The point from which your stirrup leathers hang from the “stirrup bar” or saddle tree is the first weight-bearing point of your saddle.
It should not be allowed to obstruct/inhibit the full, free motion of your horse’s scapulae if you desire a healthy, balanced stride. This is critical,
whether or not your horse has a short back. Also: the front of the saddle should be placed at the resting scapula back edge when possible.
3 SHIM your saddle pad to properly custom-fit your horse’s BASIC BACK SHAPE.
SEE SAMPLES further within these pages to guide you if you need it,
and KEEP IT SIMPLE, while remembering the 3 basic reasons WHY WE SHIM:
1. SCAPULA CLEARANCE: to make sure there is room for shoulders to move unrestricted.
2. BALANCE POINT : to make sure the deepest part of the saddle seat is toward the back,
3. MUSCLE ATROPHY and/or SAGGING BACK : to make sure that horse’s center back and that you can feel secure in your seat while not dumping weight on horse’s front end.
area is supported by the right consistency of “fill” under the saddle to encourage horse
to round up/push up underneath you while getting hindquarters deep underneath.
Copyright 2012 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles, LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 2
Checklist #2:
AS YOU SADDLE and BEFORE YOU MOUNT UP:
PULL FRONT OF PAD HIGH
UP into saddle gullet prior to
tightening girth, to prevent
any pressure on the withers!
NOTE: The information included here relates to custom fitting your saddle. It is provided in addition to basic “SADDLE WITH SAVVY” information provided by Pat and
Linda Parelli throughout their materials. Of course, those basic Parelli principles and practices should be incorporated as you saddle.
REACH UNDER your saddle and pad and make sure you can FEEL YOUR HORSE’S
1 SHOULDER MOVING FREELY as he/she
WALKS FORWARD.
You’ll need to walk backward,
and feel all the way back to the stirrup bar.
Though it is always good to check under the front area of
the saddle while the horse is standing, it will feel tighter
than when the horse is walking. Note: You may need a friend
to help you by leading your horse while you do this. (If feeling for left
shoulder, reach with left arm. If you use your right arm, your shoulder
could be injured if horse should move suddenly).
There must be SOME pressure , of course, as saddle tree must support weight
all along its bars...but it should not be so tight as to restrict shoulder action.
Take care and do not over-tighten the cinch, as doing so will add pressure to horse and
possibly pull saddle forward. Our saddle systems should not require over-tight cinching.
2 Check to see if LOWEST POINT OF SADDLE SEAT is toward the back of the saddle.
You can roll a lipstick/chapstick or something round to see where it stops, but note:
When you sit in your saddle, the seat will sink a bit lower
than when you are looking at it before mounting. But there
should be no doubt that the lowest point is toward the
back. This is important for good Balance Point access.
For Western saddles, think of the low point being back
toward the rear conchos...but you should not be jammed
all the way back tight against the cantle.
Note: On our Parelli Saddles DVD, Linda mentions that it is a good idea to try to level the front and rear conchos with each other. However, in our evolving years
of crafting well balanced saddles, we have learned that the saddle makers cannot always install the front concho at the same height on different size saddles, so that
principle does not always apply. When you are shimming your saddle to afford scapula clearance and good balance point access, do not rely on conchos being level.
For our English Fluidity GP saddles, we like to have the cantle about 2 finger widths above the pommel when rider is seated. Dressage cantles can be a bit higher.
3 SEND HORSE OUT ON LINE and look for head/neck STRETCHING and BLOWING
This indicates that shoulders are unrestricted, and your
horse has plenty of room to push up/round up under the
accommodating room underneath a Parelli saddle.
Use cavaletti, jump something, change directions at all
gaits, if possible.
It’s a good idea to allow him/her to experiment with this
new feeling before you mount, as he/she may even buck a
little at first if more familiar with restrictive saddles.
Mount when horse looks relaxed and comfortable, and
look for more reach, stretch and blowing as you ride.
Note: For a helpful checklist of what to look for, download
“Horse Posture and Movement” from www.ParelliSaddles.com
Employing all the Parelli “Riding-with-Fluidity” principles that you can will yield pleasureable results
for both of you. Even the best tools can’t do the whole job!
Copyright 2011 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles, LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 3
Checklist #3:
AFTER YOU RIDE and unsaddle:
NOTE: The information included here relates to the process of custom fitting your saddle. It is provided in addition to basic “SADDLE WITH SAVVY” information provided
by Pat and Linda Parelli throughout their materials.. Of course, those basic Parelli principles and practices should be incorporated as you saddle.
CHECK your horse’s SWEAT PATTERNS (after every ride) to see if there are any
1 DRY SPOTS or RUFFLED HAIRS.
Gathering feedback from your horse while you ride and examining sweat marks after riding provides a great opportunity to
improve your riding skills as well as your relationship. DRY SPOTS
can indicate PRESSURE and PAIN. They must be diagnosed and
addressed if this is the case. Dryness can indicate NO CONTACT
with the saddle, which can be ok, such as: Dryness along the center
channel of the spine is ok, as there should not be any direct contact
with the saddle there. Also, if horse is not very sweaty, it is difficult to
assess dryness. Note: It is generally a positive indication if your horse
has even-textured sweat marks all along where the bars of the saddle
are located. If, however, you detect that there has been extra pressure
in certain spots (you can also see indications of this by looking on the
under side of the saddle pad to see if it looks like excessive pressure was
applied), do your best to adjust next time.
RUFFLES generally indicate FRICTION or opposing motion,
which is likely a FLUIDITY issue. Apply Linda’s principles.
In this example, the sweat marks would indicate that there is
excessive pressure at the back, and not enough contact with
the saddle through the center. We would guess that the rider
shimmed the shoulder area to lift the front of the saddle for this
horse’s “downhill” posture, but neglected to shim the center,
where he has a low spot. Therefore, the saddle “bridged” across
the center, and was probably over-tilted into the loin area. See
our shim suggestions for such a back shape on page 8.
2 ADJUST SHIMS if you have a good idea what to correct. We encourage you to feel free
to experiment, and use as few shims as possible. Little shifts can yield great results!
Also, make mental note of your own corresponding body parts, so you can adjust next time. Pat and Linda remind
us that we need to “do in our body what we are asking our horse to do”. For instance, if we are stiff in shoulders or
hips when we ride, our horse is likely to have corresponding ruffled hairs at shoulders or hips.
For some help if you need it: See our extensive library of horses’ back types, suggested shim patterns,
and success story testimonials further on in this presentation.
3 If you want help DIAGNOSING how to make things better next time you ride,
refer to our TROUBLESHOOTING guide (page 11) and/or Linda’s volume of
Fluidity and other riding lessons.
www.ParelliSaddles.com has many educational tools and downloads available.
Click on DOWNLOADS at the bottom of our Home Page to see them.
www.Parelli.com has a Savvy Vault full of information that is easily digestible, employable and unparalleled in
the world. If you need further help, email us: [email protected]. We’re here for you.
Linda Parelli and her Saddle Team are passionately driven to see to it that you and your horse have extraodinarily enjoyable riding experiences together.
We also remind ourselves of the importance of making certain that our horses are structurally
balanced, whether or not we use shoes on them. (See www.HealthyStride.com).
Employing all of the Parelli “Riding-with-Fluidity” principles that you can will yield
pleasureable results for both of you. Even the best tools can’t do the whole job!
Copyright 2011 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles, LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 4
IMPORTANT NOTE: The shimming patterns we recommend are designed to work effectively with PARELLI SADDLES, which are constructed specifically to fit the
horse in motion. Parelli saddle shapes have ROOM built in to accommodate pad/shim interface that is truly effective and supremely comfortable for the horse.
More than a decade of research and careful observations of what is necessary to enable a horse to be happy has reinforced our conviction that this is important.
We cannot guarantee that shimming non-Parelli saddles can be as effective. In fact, shimming under a saddle that has “rock” in the tree’s bars (center of the
saddle’s underside curves downward to fit the horse’s back when it’s “down” while he is standing at rest) may add too much pressure in the center back area.
BASIC Shim Patterns for DOWNHILL HORSES
with NO
HOLLOW
WITHERS are LOWER than croup, but there is not a sunken center nor Muscle Atrophy in this example. Still,
saddle pressure MUST be lifted off the horse’s shoulders via shim(s) so horse can travel properly.
Illustrations are intended to indicate shim position INSIDE the pad ‘s shim pocket. Shims should be placed as shown, ON TOP of the air cells in Theraflex pads as well as on top of the SmartFoam inserts in our Smart Pads. Shim position and placement would be relatively the same for other pads, but
our research has indicated clearly that Smart Pads and Theraflex yield best overall results. Smart Pads may be easier to use and more “forgiving”.
If your horse is only slightly “downhill”, it
might be possible to use just one foam
shim alone. If downhill is steeper, we
have often found that building a gradual
“ramp” by tucking a thin or thick felt shim
under and behind the front shim creates more lift for the front of the saddle
and more room for the shoulder to swing
underneath. Need more lift? Try adding
another felt or foam shim, or using a center foam shim shifted forward to help. Be
certain you don’t tilt saddle so much that
it digs into horse at the back. Add a shim
in the back of the pad pocket if this is so.
Our latest research indicates that Foam shims are often preferable to Felt shims the main “shoulder-area lifter” for downhill horses.
Felt shims are still effective, but less so, unless horse is well muscled, and only slightly downhill (or level or uphill).
Combining a thick or thin Felt shim as a wedge/ramp under or on top of the front Foam shoulder shim is often a good idea.
For WESTERN or CRUISER Saddles
Note: Cruiser pads have an “English” shape, but contain Western size
NOTE POSITION of
protective cells in the pockets under the tree bars, as
foam “shoulder”
Cruisers are made on our Western tree
shims, as we like to
and require the larger size air cells.
place them
NOT ALL THE WAY
FORWARD in the
pad pocket.
If horse is more
downhill, you could
add a felt shim on
top of it and shifted
forward, or underneath, as per below.
Note: above illustration is of our SMART PAD. Below, our THERAFLEX pad.
Both have sensational technological, dynamic and therapeutic features/
benefits. We recommend the Smart Pad for long rides, trail/endurance,
and high-torque performance sports. Read more on our website.
Shim patterns are relatively the same for either pad.
For ENGLISH Saddles
Keep shim set back
at the position of
scapula max backswing point! This
helps keep pressure
off the working
shoulder!
ALTERNATIVES: (Feel free to EXPERIMENT! You AND your horse will benefit!)
For broad-shouldered horses, we usually like to position the front
shim pulled back from the front of the pad’s pocket, at an angle,
as illustrated. This way, the thick part lifts the saddle from down
low, and the tapered edge puts no pressure on top of the shoulder.
English trees are more shallow, so shoulder shim would usually be
positioned more level, as shown...but PLEASE experiment!
The illustration directly at left is a sample shim pattern using a felt
shoulder shim tucked under and slightly behind the foam shim, which
creates a gradual “ramp” of support to lift the saddle in cases where
horse is a bit more downhill.
The idea is to lift the front of the saddle starting from further back,
while creating room for the scapula to swing underneath.
Copyright 2012 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles, LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 5
BASIC Shim Patterns for DOWNHILL HORSES with Hollow :
WITHERS are significantly LOWER than croup. Center area is sagging, so saddle must be lifted up in front + “connected” to
the horse’s body via a shim in center so saddle doesn’t “bridge”.
Illustrations are intended to indicate shim position INSIDE the pad pocket. Shims should be placed as shown, ON TOP of the air cells in Theraflex pads
or Smart Foam cells in Smart Pads. If you wish to use other types of saddle pads, shim position and placement would be relatively the same.
When a horse has a low-center area along
the back, it must be filled (not over-stuffed)
enough to offer soft support that keeps
good connection with the saddle. This
encourages pushing up/rounding up under
the saddle/rider, and you’ll feel that the
hindquarters can get deeper underneath
and be more powerful. As always be conscious of building a “ramp” of support by
putting the front shims on top and staggered forward, so that the shoulders can
swing underneath the space created. In
other words: the front-most shim should be
farthest away from your horse’s body.
Our latest research indicates that Foam shims are often preferable to Felt shims the main “shoulder-area lifter” and “center fill” for
downhill horses with a significant low spot in center. Felt shims can still be effective in combination with foam ones, but less helpful
by themselves, unless horse has a very shallow hollow area in the center and is only slightly downhill (or level or uphill).
For WESTERN or CRUISER Saddles
Note: Cruiser pads have an “English” shape, but contain Western size
protective cells in the pockets under the tree bars, as
Experiment if you think
there’s room for improvement!
Cruisers are made on our Western tree
and require the larger size air cells.
Try shifting shims forward or
For ENGLISH Saddles
back until it feels just right!
We like to position the foam
shoulder shim set back from
the front of the shim pocket,
as shown. This gives more
room for the shoulder to
operate. The foam center
helps with lifting the front
of the saddle, too, when you
shift it forward.
Note: above illustration is of our SMART PAD. Below, some alternative
suggestions on our THERAFLEX pad’s air cells. Both pads have sensational
technological, dynamic and therapeutic features/benefits. We recommend
the Smart Pad for long rides, trail/endurance, and high-torque performance
sports. Read more about the 2 pads on our website.
Shim patterns can be relatively the same for either pad.
ALTERNATIVES: (Feel free to EXPERIMENT! You AND your horse will benefit!)
If you find you need more lift in front, you could tuck in another
shoulder shim, staggered forward of the foam shim that’s in the
pocket. (You can make this decision after you mount and check to
feel if you’ve got good Balance Point access). Just dismount and tuck it
on top of the Theraflex
Note: if your horse is extremely “Downhill”,
pad or use the front
you may also need a shim at the back to make
access opening of
sure the angle required to lift the front is not so
the Smart Pad.
steep that it creates a pressure point at the back
No need to unsaddle.
of the saddle. ALWAYS check this by reaching
back under the saddle as you ride along. It
should not feel uncomfortably tight. Also:
Shifting the foam center shim toward the back a
bit further might relieve such pressure without
adding another shim. Smart Pads sometimes
Copyright 2012 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles,LLC
need less shims than Theraflex pads. Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 6
IMPORTANT NOTE: The shimming patterns we recommend are designed to work effectively with PARELLI SADDLES, which are constructed specifically to fit the
horse in motion. Parelli saddle shapes have ROOM built in to accommodate pad/shim interface that is truly effective and supremely comfortable for the horse.
More than a decade of research and careful observations of what is necessary to enable a horse to be happy has reinforced our conviction that this is important.
We cannot guarantee that shimming non-Parelli saddles can be as effective. In fact, shimming under a saddle that has “rock” in the tree’s bars (center of the
saddle’s underside curves downward to fit the horse’s back when it’s “down” while he is standing at rest) may add too much pressure in the center back area.
BASIC Shim Patterns for UPHILL or Level HORSES Without HOLLOW
WITHERS are HIGHER than or LEVEL with croup, with NO HOLLOW nor Muscle Atrophy evident in this case.
HOWEVER: we still recommend at least 1 shim to make certain there is no saddle pressure on moving shoulder.
Illustrations are intended to indicate shim position INSIDE the pad ‘s shim pocket. Shims should be placed as shown, ON TOP of the air cells in Theraflex pads
as well as on top of the SmartFoam inserts in our Smart Pads. Shim position and placement would be relatively the same for other pads, but our research has
indicated clearly that Smart Pads and Theraflex yield best overall results. Smart Pads may be easier to use and more “forgiving”.
Though our saddles are built wide and angled
beautifully to give a horse’s big shoulders
room to move freely, you might think they
feel “tight” when you try to put your hand
underneath the front if you do not have at
least one shim under there. This is because
the saddle will “fall down” in front without
your “managing” that extra space by lifting
the saddle just a bit. It’s a wonderful system.
Don’t be hesitant to experiment with the
placement of the shim. Always test with your
hand reached under the pad as he is walking
forward (you walk backward, and you may need
someone’s help leading your horse). You should
be able to feel all the way back to the stirrup
bar, and tell that the shoulders are moving well,
without too much pressure on them. .
Our latest research indicates that Foam shims are preferable to Felt shims as the main “lifter” to keep saddle pressure off the shoulders.
Felt shims are still effective for Uphill horses, however. We recommend you experiment with both and see what feels best.
For WESTERN or CRUISER Saddles
For ENGLISH Saddles
Note: We usually place shoulder shim in a relatively horizontal position when horse’s shoulders are round in shape. If they are more
A-frame shaped (steeply angled off the spine), you may want to place a FELT shim in a vertical position if horizontal foam shim is not
satisfactory...but horizontal foam shims work well in Smart Pad.
Note: We have found that Foam shims are often more satisfactory than
Felt ones when using the SMART PAD. However, If horse’s
shoulders are
Vertical
very broad,
position
you may
only works
find that
with felt shims:
a single
felt shim
is sufficient
for lifting
pressure off
the shoulder.
Western or English
Theraflex air cells
For UPHILL horses, it is important to set the shim
behind the scapula’s max backswing point, to
keep pressure off the working shoulder.
ALTERNATIVE
Foam shims can offer more “lift” in front. Make sure the thin tapered
part is toward the top/rear, (so shim puts no pressure at the top of the
shoulder nor back muscles) and the thick part is toward the front, fairly
low and set back in the pad pocket.
FELT shims cannot be tapered, so be certain that they don’t add pressure where
you don’t want it.
Note the scoop/curve in the felt shim is designed to leave room for the scapula,
so it needs to face forward as shown when in vertical position.
Copyright 2011 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles,LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 7
BASIC Shim Patterns for UPHILL
HORSES with High Wither :
or LEVEL
WITHERS are HIGHER than or LEVEL with croup, but slight HOLLOW and noticeable atrophy should be filled in by shims
until Trapezius and Longissimus Dorsi muscles re-build.
Illustrations are intended to indicate shim position INSIDE the pad ‘s shim pocket. Shims should be placed as shown, ON TOP of the air cells in Theraflex pads as well as on top of the SmartFoam inserts in our Smart Pads. Shim position and placement would be relatively the same for other pads, but
our research has indicated clearly that Smart Pads and Theraflex yield best overall results. Smart Pads may be easier to use and more “forgiving”.
When any horse has a low-center area along
the back, it must be filled enough to offer
soft support that keeps good connection
with the saddle. This encourages pushing
up/rounding up under/into the saddle, and
you’ll feel that the hindquarters can get deeper
underneath and be more powerful. We recommend adding a shoulder shim on top and
staggered forward to lift all saddle pressure off
the shoulder area. We’ve built lots of room underneath Parelli saddles so that the shoulders
and back muscles can have space to move and
develop. Shims help keep that space cushioned
properly. Keep them clear of scapula swing.
Our latest research indicates that Foam shims are often preferable to Felt shims the main “shoulder-area lifter” and “center fill” for
atrophy along spine. Felt shims can still be effective in combination with foam ones, but less helpful by themselves in most cases.
For WESTERN or CRUISER Saddles
For ENGLISH Saddles
Note: For very high withered horses, take special care to shim so that the pommel of the saddle does not make contact with the horse’s wither
nor spine. For instance: if you put a high-spined horse in our SuperWide
Experiment
Natural Performer before his muscles develop, this could be an issue.
if you think
We would recommend adding an extra pad temporarily and
there is room
checking
for
with your
improvement!
fingers under
Try shifting shims forward
the front of the
or back until it feels
saddle after
just right!
mounting.
Note: Cruiser
Positioning the shims set back
saddle model
from the front of the pad pocket
has high wither
provides more room for the
clearance.
shoulder to operate.
Note: above illustration is of our SMART PAD. Below, some alternative
suggestions on our THERAFLEX pad’s air cells. Both pads have sensational
technological, dynamic and therapeutic features/benefits. We recommend
the Smart Pad for long rides, trail/endurance, and high-torque performance
sports. You can adjust shim position through front access opening without
unsaddling! Read more about the 2 pads on our website.
ALTERNATIVES: (Feel free to EXPERIMENT! You AND your horse will benefit!)
If you do not want so much “lift” in front, (or, if your horse’s center
back area is not sunken as far as in the photo at left)experiment
with using thick or thin FELT shims. EXPERIMENTING with
different combinations will
Note: if your horse is extremely atrophied along the spine,
help you observe &
you may also need a shim at the back (see illustration at compare what your horse
lower left) until muscle re-develops, to make sure that
is feeling and telling you.
there is no pressure point near the back of the saddle.
It may be necessary to add another Felt shoulder shim to
lift front of saddle for sake of your Balance Point access.
ALWAYS check this by reaching back under the saddle as
you ride along. It should not feel uncomfortably tight.
Also: Shifting the foam center shim toward the back a bit
further might relieve such pressure without adding another
Copyright 2012 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles,LLC
shim. Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 6
BASIC Shim Patterns for HOLLOW HORSES: Downhill, Level or Uphill
WITHERS are LOWER than croup in this example, so saddle will need lifting out of center sag PLUS lifted in front.
Illustrations are intended to indicate shim position INSIDE the pad pocket. Shims should be placed as shown, ON TOP of the air cells in Theraflex pads.
If you wish to use other types of saddle pads, shim position and placement would be relatively the same, for best effectiveness.
“Hill Therapy” and Cavaletti would help strengthen/lift his back, too.
We have learned that it is essential that
the saddle be lifted up out of a hollowed center back area of a horse. The
comfortably cushioned support that
our tapered foam center shim offers
will encourage him to lift up/round up/
tuck his belly...and the saddle will have
less of a tendency to rub at the back. Of
course, if the withers are lower than the
croup, one or more “Downhill” shoulder
shim patterns should be added...and we
like some sort of shim at the shoulder
whether the horse is uphill or downhill.
If the center hollow is VERY deep, you
may need to add another center shim.
Note: For very high withered horses, take special care to shim so that the pommel of the saddle does not make contact with the horse’s wither nor spine. For
instance: if you put a high-spined horse in our SuperWide Natural Performer before his muscles develop, this could be an issue. We suggest adding an extra pad
temporarily and checking with your fingers under the front of the saddle after mounting to make sure underside of pommel’s center is not touching the wither.
For WESTERN or CRUISER Saddles
For ENGLISH Saddles
Note: we usually place shoulder shim in a horizontal position when horse’s shoulders are round in shape. If they are more
A-frame shaped (steeply angled off the spine), you may want to place the shim in vertically.
Vertical
positioning:
Note: Cruiser pads have an “English” shape, but contain Western size air For Western AND
cells, as Cruisers are made on our Western tree.
English, we like to
position the shim not
all the way forward
in the air cell pocket,
as shown. This gives
more room for the
shoulder to operate.
Also note: When angling the
shoulder shim for Western,
it is ok for the little “fin” to protrude
above the pad pocket.
ALTERNATIVE: (Feel free to EXPERIMENT! You AND your horse will benefit!)
If “Downhill” posture is severe, a second shoulder shim might
help tremendously (Felt or Foam). If you need to add it, you
may put it inside OR outside the pad pocket...staggered in
front of the other shoulder shim. If “Hollow” is severe, consider
using another center shim (Felt or Foam). Note: experiment with
shifting center shim more toward back or front, and notice what gets best result.
Note: in alternative example at left, Foam center
shim is shifted forward, and can help lift front of
saddle a bit, too. Add shoulder shim if necessary
to help in “Downhill” cases..
Copyright 2011 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles,LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 9
BASIC Shim Patterns for HORSES (Downhill, Level or Uphill) with SLIGHT Hollows:
WITHERS are LEVEL with croup in this example, but saddle should be slightly lifted in center as well as front, for
wither clearance + good Balance Point access. Be careful to not use too much shim in center, as this adds pressure!
Illustrations are intended to indicate shim position INSIDE the pad ‘s shim pocket. Shims should be placed as shown, ON TOP of the air cells in Theraflex pads as well as on top of the SmartFoam inserts in our Smart Pads. Shim position and placement would be relatively the same for other pads, but
our research has indicated clearly that Smart Pads and Theraflex yield best overall results. Smart Pads may be easier to use and more “forgiving”.
If there is even a slight, shallow hollow area
in the center back, we have discovered that a
bit of a longer “ramp” up to a front shoulder
shim helps keep a nice connection with the
saddle that feels good to the horse. Our thin
felt center shim is perfect for this. (Use a thick
center shim if hollow is a little deeper, though
not deep enough to require our foam center
shim). Don’t forget to experiment with shifting the center shim further back or forward to
see what yields best results.
Check back strength periodically by tickling
belly before saddling to see if back is strong
enough to come level with wither/croup. If it
is, remove the center shim so that it does not
add unwanted pressure to moving back.
Note: For very high withered horses, take special care to shim so that the pommel of the saddle does not make contact with the horse’s wither nor spine. For
instance: if you put a high-spined horse in our SuperWide Natural Performer before his muscles develop, this could be an issue. We suggest adding an extra pad
temporarily and checking with your fingers under the front of the saddle after mounting to make sure underside of pommel’s center is not touching the wither.
WESTERN or CRUISER or ENGLISH alternative suggestions:
Reminder: As your horse’s back develops, re-evaluate your shimming needs. Generally, less shims will be required
sooner than you may think. However, we ALWAYS recommend using AT LEAST ONE SHOULDER SHIM to keep
pressure off shoulders.. Also: when using the Smart pad, first, try using only
the foam shoulder shim or center shim shifted forward before adding others.
Note: Before cinching, it’s
always a good idea to feel
under the saddle pad (all the
way along up high under the
bars of the saddle) to make
sure everything feels smooth
where there is contact with
the horse...
no gaps, no tight spots.
Position the
shims not
all the way
forward in the
air cell pocket,
as shown.
This lifts saddle
pressure off shoulder so it can operate freely.
ALTERNATIVE: (Feel free to EXPERIMENT! You AND your horse will benefit!)
If you do not want so much “lift” in front, use thick or thin FELT
shoulder shims, placed horizontally for round shouldered horses,
and vertically for A-Frame shaped shoulders
Reminder: Always assess sweat patterns after saddle is removed, making
sure there are no significant pressure points/dry spots. Horse must have
sweat adequately to do this, of course!
Note: After cinching, it’s always a good idea to feel under the saddle pad
(as horse walks forward) all the way back to the stirrup bar to make certain
that shoulder is operating without significant restriction.
Copyright 2011 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles,LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 10
TROUBLESHOOTING
GUIDE:
Our saddle systems will help improve your harmonic riding skills and provide valuable feedback when things
are not right for your horse. When you examine your horse’s sweat patterns after unsaddling, you will have an
honest “report card” on your riding...and a “blueprint” for developing strategies for improvement.
We recommend that AT LEAST ONE SHOULDER SHIM ALWAYS be used (placed at the scapula’s max backswing point) to keep
pressure off the shoulder. SOME TIPS:
RUFFLED HAIRS or RUB MARKS? A sign of disharmony with the horse. Could indicate too much weight/
pressure on front end or back end...but more probably, it is caused by FRICTION, which is a Fluidity issue. Where were you stiff in your
body? (for instance: ruffles at horse’s shoulders could mean your shoulders were stiff...at the back, it could mean stiffness in your hips or
heels. (In hollow backed horses, it’s important to make sure the saddle isn’t sitting down too low so that the pad runs into the horse’s hips.
Over-shimming in front could also create too steep an angle (see diagrams on website and shim pattern suggestions on reverse side of this
brochure). Were you moving in opposition to your horse? Were you bracing in your stirrups? Driving with your seat? Leaning too far
back? Such things CAN CAUSE A SADDLE TO TRAVEL FORWARD, too. “Saddles don’t slide uphill”, Linda says. Use your shimming, your fluid
riding techniques, transitions exercises, etc. to get weight off the forehand.
DRY SPOTS in sweat pattern? Dry down the center of the spine where there is no contact (because of the open
center channel) is ok. A dry spot can tell you about no pressure or too much pressure. Consider too much weight/pressure on front end...
If unaddressed, white hairs may show up...which will go away if you adjust shims/remedy problem. If you feel under saddle and it is
tight where the shims are, change their position / turn them sideways /add or subtract one...whatever it takes to release the pressure. In
the case where you feel underneath and there is no contact at all with the saddle and pad, more shims would help the saddle “hug” your
horse with even contact. This invites him/her to round his back, push up into the comfort and reach under farther from behind. (Just as
you would do if carrying a backpack that was loaded softly/evenly, compared to having an uneven load with lumps or pinches, which
would make you want to arch your back to get away from the pain.
LUMBAR PAIN? Should not be a problem with a Parelli saddle (unless, as with any saddle, it is placed too far forward on a
horse, and the horse must carry too much weight on his front end, which forces him to arch uncomfortably). If a horse has a bit of a muscle
ache in early stages of using a Parelli saddle system, it would be because he is using his back differently (FOR THE BETTER!) and pushing
previously under-used muscles up into the pad. If you don’t brace in your stirrups, arch/stiffen your back, sit too far forward. etc., any newuse aches should go away...as they would for you!
WHITE HAIRS vs WHITE MARKS? Flecky white hairs are evidence of friction or too much weight or pressure at
the front of the saddle , which puts damaging weight on the horse’s forehand. They are usually temporary and are evident on soft tissue
areas, such as behind the shoulders. Adjust your shimming to make certain you don’t feel pressure on that spot and you can also easily
get on your Balance Point when in the saddle. WHITE MARK SCARS occur when the shoulder blade/bone is slammed/pinched into a hard
saddle tree. These scars are usually permanent and are caused by a saddle that presses onto the shoulders because it is too narrow, far
forward or downhill. (see shimming patterns on reverse side for downhill horses. These horses need extra attention re: pressure).
Pad feels too hard or bouncy? Too much air in the cells...open both valves at same time, and let out burst of air...DON’T
LET IT ALL OUT. But, too much air makes you feel unconnected w/ horse.
Pad slips down/back/forward/goes crooked? Girth/Cinch too loose? (don’t over-tighten it, though). Rider
driving with seat can cause the saddle or pad or both to slide forward. Rider bracing in stirrups can sometimes cause the pad to slip backwards....this also dumps too much weight on horse’s front end (feet should just be resting on the stirrups. When pad goes crooked, this can
tell you about crookedness in horse or rider, tension or uneven muscle development. Major displacements could require re-saddling., but
minor crookedness is not an issue. Check symmetrical placement.
Copyright 2011 Parelli Natural Horsemanship, Inc. and Natural Horseman Saddles, LLC
Parelli Saddle Fit Education PAGE 11