Vaucluse and
Haute Provence
From the powerful spring at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse to the spectacular limestone
gorges of Toulourenc and the mountain torrents of the Barles valley, sun-baked
Provence may be popular but it also has its secret places
104Gorges Vaucluse
and Haute Provence
61
de la Méouge
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NyonsNyons
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d-546
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ORANGE
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Draix
Digne-les-Bains
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Sault Sault
Mormoiron
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CARPENTRAS
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Forcalquier
Forcalquier
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l’Isle-sur-la-Sourge
l’Isle-sur-la-Sourge
AVIGNON
AVIGNON
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Apt
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CadenetCadenet
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Cavaillon
Cavaillon
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62 clues de barles
58 upper toulourenc
63 bouinenc and vabre
An unexpected and amazing blue pool beneath a driedup waterfall, in an otherwise arid stream bed.
An intriguing double-pool with a waterfall and strange
striated rock formations in the pools below.
This waterfall and river pools by a Roman bridge in
Haute Provence are wonderful but popular. Head
upstream for many more pools, mainly shallow.
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Salon-de-Provence
Salon-de-Provence
57 lower toulourenc
61 gorges de la méouge
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Pertuis Pertuis
60km west
66 60km
66west
Vaucluse and Haute Provence
A beautiful little river with intermittent pools running Riez In Riez
this lively mountain stream there are natural jacuzzi
through a wild gorge, perfect for aqua randonnée and
pools and rapids, with larger waterfalls upstream.
children.
Several ‘dinosaur’ discoveries were made here.
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Sisteron
Sisteron
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Montburn-les-Bains
Montburn-les-Bains
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57 b a 57
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Entrechaux
Entrechauxb
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SéderonSéderon
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Vaison-la-Romaine
Vaison-la-Romaine
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20km north
20km north
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59 20km
59north
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south
AIX-EN-PROVENCE
AIX-EN-PROVENCE
66
50km
south
66
58 Upper Toulourenc above waterfall
58
Haut Vaucluse
57 lower toulourenc
58 upper toulourenc
60 gorges d’ubrieux
Below the north slopes of Mont Ventoux
the Toulourenc stream runs through
narrow white gorges with caves, pools
and gravel beds.
A deep plunge pool below a dried-up
waterfall in an otherwise parched
landscape.
Roadside pools and picnic tables
beneath white cliffs with climbers
scaling dizzy heights. From Aulan (upper
Toulourenc) turn L (D546) and continue
20km following the river Ouvèze to find
several pools near bridge 1km before
Buis-les-Baronnies.
lat long: 44.2150, 5.2140
walk in: 20 mins, moderate
This historic heartland – an area of fortified villages and
fruit orchards irrigated by the Rhône and Durance rivers – is
also an arid region. Many of the smaller rivers and gorges
have dried up by summer, but there are many lakes, rivers
and pools for refreshing dips off the beaten track.
57
108
Below the bridge
Vaucluse and Haute Provence
One of the few rivers to keep a constant flow in the region
is the Toulourenc, east of Vaison-la-Romaine, which has
carved wonderful, white sinuous channels through the lower
limestone slopes of Mont Ventoux 57. From Pont Vieux 57b
there is a particularly wild and beautiful river walk, perfect for
a light aqua randonnée spent wading in the stream, walking
along the bank and swimming through the deep sections
where they occur. Many families bring their children to the
pools here and the stream is so popular with bathers that you
will find hundreds of small stone dams across it by the end
Turn off the D5 onto the D40 just
,,
before Mollans-sur-Ouvèze. After 1km
turn R on D40A (dir Veaux) and park at
bridge (3km). There are pools beneath
but carry on walking/wading upstream
to explore gorges and pools for up to
6km.
a Pont Romain is about 6km E /
upstream (10km via D40), signed on R,
with a pool beneath (44.2131, 5.2557). Or
reach it by hiking from Veaux.
b Pont Vieux is downstream, off the
D5 just W of the D40 turning (44.2217,
5.1740). Head upstream 500m and the
gorges begin beyond the Chapelle des
Anges.
lat long: 44.2172, 5.4249
walk in: 3 mins, moderate
Continue 15km E and turn L from
,,
D72/D542 at Montbrun-les-Bains. 1km
before Aulan, and 200m before the road
bridge, find steps and large pool below.
Scramble down dry waterfall ledge to
reach it.
59 cornillon-sur-l’oule
lat long: 44.4647, 5.3687
walk in: 1 min, easy
Two managed lakes overlooked by the
ruins of the château with views of the
mountains and the pretty artisan village
of La Motte-Chalancon nearby.
30km N of the Toulourenc. 7km N of
,,
the river Eygues on D61, via Rémuzat. 2€
entrance and music festival on the first
Wednesday in August.
lat long: 44.2931, 5.2803
walk in: 2 mins, easy
a Col de l’Homme Mort is 2.6km back
upstream at the road tunnel (D546,
44.2985, 5.3081). Giant boulders poke
out of the river bed and down below,
the shallow blue river meanders away
from the road for a while. ! Le Canard
offers simple pitches by the river, 2km
upstream.
b Pont St-Michel is a popular swimming
location 12 km downstream (44.2288,
5.1363). It is shallow in late summer so
bathers build dams and create pools.
4km upstream from Vaison-la-Romaine
on D205 going E, 1km from Entrechaux.
Upstream ! Les Trois Rivières has good
riverside placements (E 04 90 46 01 72).
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60 gorges d’umbrieux
63 vabre double pool
57 lower toulourenc
123 name of place
Picture caption
caption here here
62a clue de verdaches
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Vaucluse and Haute Provence
62
Pool on the Barles
63 Upper Bouinenc
of the summer. Some will also have been dismantled by those
who care about the river’s fish population: if the water slows it
also heats up, which reduces oxygen and kills fish.
62b
On the edge of the Bès
Just to the north, Pont St-Michel on the Ouvèze 60b offers
an aquatic refuge to the overheated swimmer and the upper
Toulourenc yields an unexpectedly huge pool under a dried-up
waterfall 58. There is also good swimming along the dramatic
Gorges de la Meouge, which is 30 kilometres to the east and
a short drive north of the historic town of Sisteron. One of
the gorge’s most popular spots 61 has a waterfall and an old
Roman bridge, with high jumps and large stretches of river to
explore upstream.
In the Haut Provence region to the east, visit the Clues des
Barles 62 and discover a paradise of wild-water jacuzzi pools
and waterfalls, or make for Bouinenc 63 near Draix, a remote
ravine with layered strata of flat rocks that contain the remains
of creatures from prehistoric oceans. The area around Barles is
particularly rich in geological specimens: follow the path along
the valley (‘empreintes de pas d’oiseaux’) and see great walls
of ammonities and other extraordinary fossils or head south to
where one of the first ichthyosaurs – a giant dolphin-like lizard
that roamed the seas 100 million years ago – was discovered.
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Vaucluse and Haute Provence
62b
Pool on the Bès
Haute Provence & Digne
61 gorges de la méouge
62 clues de barles
63 bouinenc and vabre
Very popular waterfall and pool for
jumping by Roman bridge. Set in
spectacular limestone gorges.
River pools amongst wild mountain
scenery with ammonites and
ichthyosaur imprints.
15km N from Sisteron (D948) turn L
,,
15km from Digne-les-Bains on D900A.
,,
on D42 dir Séderon. After 1.5km a track
leads down to the bridge. The waterfall
is above. The brave can jump from the
top into a deep section in the middle,
but take care. There are more pools
upstream with parking spaces and paths
leading down.
600m before the first road tunnels take
path down to the river, near sign boards
where a small bridge crosses a tributary.
The grey stratifications of the Bouinenc
gorge offer dramatic scenery in a
remote setting. There are small pools
and falls and the nimble can climb to a
beautiful pool up in the Vabre ravine.
lat long: 44.2775, 5.7930
walk in: 5 mins, easy
a Rocher Coupé is 3km further
upstream, where the road cuts through
the rock. Climb down a very steep path
(on the upstream side of the Méouge) to
the shallow pools (44.2701, 5.7749).
b Grand Buëch is 17km N on D1075.
1.5km N of Serres at a picnic area in a
layby on the D1075 find the site of an old
ruined weir (44.4419, 5.7132).
lat long: 44.2136, 6.2754
walk in: 3 mins, moderate
a Clue de Verdaches is a further 7km,
beyond Barles and 200m before the
junction to Auzet (D7). Descend to a
large waterfall beneath the road bridge
with pools below (44.2715, 6.2998). Turn
L at the junction towards Auzet and find
even larger Saut de la Pie after 200m
(44.2733, 6.3003). ! Le Pont du Martinet
makes a pleasant place to stay
( E 04 92 35 14 67).
lat long: 44.2136, 6.2754
walk in: 3 mins, moderate
10km NE of Digne-les-Bains at
,,
Marcoux (D900) turn R onto D22 dir
Draix. After 4km at the first hairpin bend
to R, park and find path to the L down
through woods to the river bed. 100m
upstream the Vabre ravine joins from
the R. Scale the ledge to the R to find a
small double pool below a fall (44.1362,
6.3286). Alternatively continue up the
river bed another 400m to explore small
pools and, eventually, a waterfall with
small cave beneath (44.1359, 6.3329).
b Pools on the Bès Venture out across
the gravel beds. 2km N of the turning for
La Robine off D900 (44.1709, 6.2526).
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67 Port Pin
64
67
67
In the southern Vaucluse, the small rivers can run dry and you
must make for artificial lakes and dedicated swimming areas
(plans d’eau), such as the pretty hilltop Étang de la Bonde 65,
and the reclaimed gravel pits along the Durance or the Rhône
65b. Much of the water that falls on the Ventoux, Lure and
Luberon mountains actually seeps through the limestone
rock into the great subterranean cave systems, with most of
it reappearing at France’s greatest ‘resurgence’, or spring, at
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, the source of the river Sorgue 64a and
a massively powerful natural fountain. The pool, at the foot of
a great cliff, is 315 metres deep and very cold, but be brave – a
swift dip will leave you wonderfully invigorated. Afterwards
follow the Sorgue downstream to Le Partage des Eaux 64
and l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, to enjoy lunch at one of the delightful
waterside restaurants in Provence’s ‘Little Venice’.
64a
If you would like to explore the coast, this is a good area to do
so. Head south to Arles and follow the Petite Rhône 66 as it
winds through the wild Camargue. Or if you are looking for just
one place to swim in the Mediterranean, make it the nature
reserve of the Calanques at Cassis 67. With translucent water,
spectacular cliffs, narrow inlets and sea caves, this is a place
of real adventure.
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Vaucluse and Haute Provence
Lower Vaucluse & the coast
64 partage des eaux
65 étang de la bonde
66 petite rhône
The river Sorgue forms a shallow lake
above two weirs. Near L’Isle-sur-la
Sorgue with its waterside cafés.
A very pleasant plan d’eau at the foot
of the Luberon. 10km from A51 (J15) via
D956 (Pertuis) then D9 dir Cabrièresd’Aigues.
Enjoy a swim in the Petite Rhône while
exploring the wonderful Camargue
wetlands. The best stretch is on the
D202, between Mas de Capette and Les
Pradaux, accessed from D570/D38C
25km SW of Arles.
lat long: 43.9170, 5.0722
walk in: 1 min, easy
Head out of town on Cours Fernande
,,
Peyre (D938 dir Pernes-les-Fontaines),
but turn R after 150m (D25, Av Voltaire
Garcin) and continue 1.7km. Here the
Sorgue forms a large pool and splits into
two at a pair of low weirs. Delightful,
mainly shallow spot with paddling,
canoes £ and a little beach on the far
side. Eat at R La Guinguette.
a Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 6km
further upstream on the D25. The cave
resurgence, one of the greatest in
France, is set in a huge hollow beneath a
cliff. Deep and cold, it’s worth a plunge if
you don’t mind the hordes of onlookers
(divers regularly explore the pool’s great
depths).Resurgence is 15 mins along a
well-signed path from the village centre
(43.9182, 5.1324). Canoes £ can be hired,
and further riverside areas explored,
1km downstream of the village on D24.
lat long: 43.7610, 5.5066
walk in: 2 mins, easy
a Plan d’Eau des Salettes is a small
lake with beach and lifeguards in the
heart of vineyards, under Mont Ventoux,
10km E of Carpentras. Turn E off the
D184 at Mormoiron and continue 700m.
Free entry ( E 04 90 61 80 17) (44.0694,
5.1964).
b Étang du Camping Val de Durance is
a large gravel-pit lake with beach next to
the Durance river bank and near Abbaye
de Silvacane. 10km to the SW of Étang de
la Bonde. Open July and August with life
guards and entrance fee (3€). Off D973
at Cadenet then D943 (43.7177, 5.3557) !.
c Plan d’Eau Li Piboulo is an isolated
lake on the edge of the Rhône just N
of Orange. 4km W of Piolenc, off N7 dir
Routes des Îles, just beyond the TGV
line. (44.1583, 4.7289).
lat long: 43.57251, 4.40267
walk in: 2 mins, easy
67 calanque d’en vau
lat long: 43.2023, 5.4982
walk in: 60 mins, moderate
If you swim only once in the sea then
choose Les Calanques de Marseille:
spectacular cliffs, narrow inlets, sea
caves and the only undeveloped part of
the Côte d’A zur. Park at Port Miou/Port
des Calanques, the marina just on from
Cassis (A50). Follow the GR98 1.2km, 30
mins to Port Pin with its pretty cove and
inlet and lovely rocks for snorkelling
(43.2040, 5.5109) or continue another
1.2km up on the GR98 again then bear L
down to dramatic Calanque d’en Vau.
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