SEWING TERMINOLOGY GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS RIGHT/WRONG SIDE OF THE FABRIC: The shaded areas in the illustrations indicate the RIGHT side of the fabric. Seams which join 2 two pieces of woven fabric are sewn with the RIGHT sides of the fabric together, unless otherwise instructed. RIGHT SIDE (printed fabric) WRONG SIDE (all fabrics) PINNING: Place pins so they2 are perpendicular to the cut edges of the fabric. When machine sewing, remove the pins as you come to them or be careful not to hit them with the needle while stitching. NEEDLE: Use a size 11 or 14 needle. MACHINE STITCHING – STRAIGHT STITCH: – Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance. – Set your stitch length to 12 stitches per inch. – Stitch again (within the seam allowance) 1/8 inch from 2 2 previous stitching. – Patterns with 1/4 inch seams do not need to have the seam allowances trimmed. MACHINE STITCHING – ZIGZAG STITCH: – Set controls for2 a narrow width zigzag (approximately 1/8 inch wide) stitch. – Practice sewing on a scrap piece of fabric and adjust the width to your preference. BACKSTITCH: When using a conventional sewing machine, backstitch to secure the beginning and end of each stitching line. Begin with 4 or 5 forward stitches, then stitch backwards to cover. Sew to the end, then take 4 or 5 stitches backwards, and then stitch to the end again. BASTE: Sew with long removable stitches. Basting is used to mark placement lines, or to temporarily attach pieces together. CLIP/WEDGE: Clip corners before turning right sides out. Where the seam curves inward, clip it. Where the seam curves outward, cut small wedges into the seam allowance. clip corners clip wedge TOP STITCHING/EDGE STITCHING: Top stitching or edge stitching is a single or multiple set of stitching lines that are both decorative and functional. Since top stitching is highly visible clipit is important that on the front of your project, clip the stitching lines are very straight. You may wedge corners prefer to slightly lengthen your stitch length to 8 to 10 stitches per inch, and stitch more slowly to maintain a straight seam. UNDERSTANDING PATTERN SYMBOLS NOTCHES: Diamond shaped symbols are used to match two pieces of fabric. There may be one notch or more. A number may be used along with the notch to accurately align adjoining pieces. CUTTING LINE: Cut along this solid line. SEAMLINE: Stitch along this broken line. The seamlines on this pattern are 1/4 inch from the cutting line. PLACEMENT LINE: Shorter solid or broken lines within the body of the pattern indicate construction details or placement lines. OPENING FOR TURNING: This type of placement line along a seamline may be accompanied by a dot or square indicating where you should start and stop stitching. This marked area should be left unsewn as the project will be turned right sides out through this opening. 222 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 GRAINLINE: A heavy solid line with arrows at each end is used to make sure a pattern is positioned along the straight of grain. The grainline should be pinned parallel to the fabric selvage. FOLD LINE: A solid line with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern piece indicates that the outer line is to be placed exactly on the folded edge of the fabric. PATTERN ADJUSTMENT LINES: Two solid lines placed closely together across the width of the pattern represent the appropriate place to lengthen or shorten the pattern. This should be done before the pattern is placed on the fabric. ZIPPER PLACEMENT LINE: This symbol indicates the position of a zipper in the seamline. The top and bottom markings show the precise length of the zipper to be used. DOTS AND SQUARES: These symbols indicate a construction detail such as a pivot point, a matching or ribbon placement point, or clip the beginning and ending points forclip stitching a clip corners clip corners seamline. corners corners clip BUTTONHOLES: A solid line withcorners dash marks at each end is used to mark the position of a buttonhole. clip corners BUTTON POSITION: A large X is used clip to mark the position of buttons. However, the final button corners placement should be made after the buttonholes have been sewn. clip clip corners corners For additional worksheets and more information, visit www.HaanCrafts.com. clip clip corners corners clip clip clip clip clip wed wed wed wed wed clip clip wed wed clip clip clip clip © 2017 HC we wed wed wed BONUS WORKSHEET Pattern Symbols Review Write the letter representing each SYMBOL NAME on the line next to the corresponding symbol on the pattern pieces below. For symbols which appear more than once, mark only one time. A B C D E F single notch double notch cutting line seamline open for turning grainline G H I J K L fold line pattern adjustment lines zipper placement line pivot dots squares buttonhole placement 2____ 9____ 5____ 1____ 10____ 6____ FRONT BACK 11____ 7____ 3____ 4____ 12____ 8____ TRUE OR FALSE Questions A NOTCH is used for matching two pieces of fabric. True False The GRAINLINE ARROW should be placed on the fold. True False The BUTTON placement will be marked with a large B. True False Solid CIRCLES or SQUARES indicate a construction detail such as a pivot point. The triangles at each end of the ZIPPER PLACEMENT LINE indicate the precise length of the zipper required for the project. True False True False A PLACEMENT LINE in the body of a pattern may be a single solid line or a dashed line. True False MATCH EACH TYPE OF STITCHING WITH THE CORRECT STATEMENT: Baste, Top Stitch and Back Stitch A stitch used to secure the stitches at the beginning and ending of a seamline is called _____________________. Temporary machine stitching that may hold two pieces together is called ________________________________. A single or multiple row of stitches on the front or right side of your project is called ________________________. For additional worksheets and more information, visit www.HaanCrafts.com. © 2017 HC
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