ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY From the ARK NEWSLETTER NUMBER 5 2006 is shaping up to be another hot dry year, the eighth in a row for Arkaroola. But with its suite of arid-adapted plants, its many sheltered refuges, its lack of broadscale environmental weeds and its on-going involvement in regional feral goat control, Arkaroola is better placed than many other parts of the Flinders Ranges to endure the prolonged dry. Whatever the weather, overhead the great southern sky still dazzles at night. The breathtaking landscapes of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary still feed the souls of visitors and our stunning and diverse earth history continues to capture their imagination. Hot and dry, Arkaroola remains magnificent! WINTER 2006 IN THIS ISSUE A Message from our Tour Guides News From The Ark An ‘Office’ with a View Sundial Park Re‐imagined Plant Profile Rose of the Desert The winter 2006 issue of From The ARK. begins the newsletter’s second year of circulation. Enjoy! A MESSAGE FROM OUR TOUR GUIDES From the Arkhives Red Ochre Pigment of Pilgrimage Creature Feature Termites Nature’s Great Recyclers Geonote Rocks with Cleavage! Conservation & Research A Gluttony of Goats Mal Wayne Marty Ben Galactic Gossip Planet in (Parenthesis) What a job ! Extreme four wheel driving, some of the greatest mountain scenery you could find anywhere and a load of keen tourists. This is the Ridge Top Tour driver’s lot. Out most days sharing a once in a lifetime, four and a half hour trip of education and excitement with visitors to our award-winning wilderness sanctuary. As specially trained tour guides our challenge is to bring Arkaroola to life for thousands of visitors each year. Each day is special, each day is different. It’s tough but someone’s gotta do it! Product Information Bats & Boobooks Ark Postcard Ochre Wall The Ridge Top Team NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES SOUTH AUSTRALIA FROM THE ARK NEWSLETTER FIVE WINTER 2006 Design, & Text Lorraine Edmunds Images provided by Lorraine Edmunds Feral goat image courtesy DEH AUSTRALIA Page 1 ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY NEWS FROM THE ARK AN ‘OFFICE’ WITH A VIEW SUNDIAL PARK RE-IMAGINED The Wishing Well has gone. So too have several sundials, the sandpit and the old tractor painted in the red, yellow and blue of you know who! Sundial Park is having a make-over. With an inexhaustible passion for knowledge, and a gift for sharing it, Dr Reg Sprigg, the founder of Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, brought science to the people in novel ways. He created a quirky assortment of sundials, and used plaster friezes and the standing stones of Ark Henge to explain aspects of earth history. During his legendary BBQ night lectures, Reg demystified complex geological processes like plate tectonics. Arkaroola continues to be deeply committed to the celebration and sharing of knowledge. Reg has left us but his legacy remains. In our new vision for Sundial Park, the area will become a geological garden, landscaped with different soils and their respective suites of plants. Threatened species, local endemics, and signature plants like Curly mallee, Balcanoona wattle and Porcupine grass will be featured. A brochure listing the plantings will be available for guests with an interest in local flora. A wheelchair-friendly pathway will meander between garden beds, set against the striking backdrop of Mt Oliphant. Three of Reg’s sundials have been retained and will be interpreted. A picnic shelter, a bushwalking information shelter and seating will also be included in the new Sundial Park. The project is being jointly funded by the South Australian Tourism Commission, through the Tourism Development Fund, and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary. Brenton Whellum from ‘Nothin But Natives’ has been contracted to do the landscaping and provide tubestock. Fancy an ‘office’ like this one? Spectacular mountain scenery out of every window, plenty of fresh air and great opportunities to deliver a quality product to customers! What would Reg think about all this, long term visitors to Arkaroola might ask? Reg never stood still and was always exploring new ideas. He would not want Arkaroola to remain frozen in time. The canvas will be reworked but Reg’ s vision continues to inspire and inform us. With some of our guides moving on at the end of 2006, Arkaroola will be looking for new tour guides next year. If you have had 4WD and guiding experience, enjoy working with people, have a genuine interest in natural and social history, and like a challenge, why not consider joining the Arkaroola team for 2007? All of our tour products have Advanced Ecotourism Accreditation. For further information Email Ray Thomas [email protected] NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES SOUTH AUSTRALIA FROM THE ARK NEWSLETTER FIVE WINTER 2006 AUSTRALIA Page 2 ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY PLANT PROFILE FROM THE ARKHIVES THE ROSE OF THE DESERT RED OCHRE Pigment of Pilgrimage Red Ochre occupies a visceral space in the human psyche. Archaeologist Ernst Wreschner has written that “ a red thread” runs through more than half a million years of human history. 300 000 year-old burial remains in France and the Czech Republic contain red ochre. In Australia, red ochre has been found in 45 000 year-old graves in Arnhem Land and at Lake Mungo. Red ochre continues to be used in Africa today by tribal groups such as the Himba people of northern Namibia. The term ochre is used to describe a group of hydrated iron oxide minerals. A very soft mineral, ochre can be crumbled between the fingers, and is easily ground to a powder using a rock as a pestle. Ochre outcrops are often banded, different colours produced by various minerals like limonite, ilmenite, and haematite. Cotton’s elegant cousin, Sturt’s Desert Rose, brings a fragile beauty to the harsh landscapes of arid Australia. In the Australian interior where flowers are often brilliantly coloured but small, the generous soft-mauve hibiscus-like flowers of Sturt’s desert rose stop travellers in their tracks. Gossypium sturtianum takes its species name from the iconic inland explorer, Captain Charles Sturt who was the first person to collect specimens of the plant. The Gossypiums belong to the Malvaceae or Mallow family, which also includes Hibiscus plants. The native Gossypiums are found in arid areas of Africa and Mexico. Ten species also occur in Australia. There are two sub-species of the desert rose, the common Gossypium sturtianum var. sturtianum and G. sturtianum var. nandewarense of eastern Australia. The Mallows are often called the ‘fibre’ family because a number of genera, including gossypiums, abutilons and lavatera, produce useful plant fibres. For Aboriginal people across Australia red ochre is the spilt blood of the ancestral heroes. Traditionally red ochre had transforming powers. It was a substance of healing, empowerment and renewal. When used on the body or in painting, red ochre was thought to transfer some of the original powers of the ancestral beings to their descendants. There was universal demand for ochre across Australia. Prior to occupation by a settler culture, a complex web of ancient trading routes criss-crossed the continent. Some of the best ochre was sourced from the Flinders Ranges. Aboriginal men made annual expeditions to the Flinders Ranges to collect red ochre and exchange goods such as spears, feathers, shields, shells and the narcotic pituri. Ancient trading routes provided the template for the many tracks that underpin Outback tourism today. The Flinders Ranges red ochre had a unique silvery sheen and a greasy texture. It was gathered up as a powder, mixed with water or urine and shaped into large cakes or ‘gobs’ for transport. Thirty-two kilos of precious cargo could be carried on the head, balanced on a circlet of grass bound up with string made from human hair. A distinctive feature of gossypiums is the presence of small dark glands over most parts of the plant. The glands contain gossypol, a substance that is toxic to non-ruminant animals like kangaroos. Australia’s native gossypiums are of great interest to scientists who are trying to develop cultivars of commercial cotton that are resistant to wilts, cotton boll worms and other pests. By using genetic material extracted from the more resistant natives, it may be possible to reduce the scale of broad spectrum insecticide use in the cotton industry. The floral emblem of the Northern territory, Sturt’s Desert Rose is a drought tolerant shrub used widely as an ornamental in Australia. Loved by honeyeaters, and with a very long flowering period, the rose of the desert is a striking addition to any garden with good drainage. Plants can be propagated from seed or cuttings and have a life of about ten years. The Ochre Wall, a striking ochre deposit, can be found on the Paralana Hot Springs road about eight kilometres from Arkaroola Village. NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES SOUTH AUSTRALIA FROM THE ARK NEWSLETTER FIVE WINTER 2006 AUSTRALIA Page 3 ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY CREATURE FEATURE TERMITES Nature’s Great Recyclers GEONOTE ROCKS WITH CLEAVAGE! Forget the mining giant BHP Billiton. The humble and largely invisible termite is the true mining monarch of Australia. Shifting enormous volumes of organic material each year and employing unimaginable millions of ‘workers’ in their subterranean empires across the continent, the termite magnates rule arid Australia. Perhaps the most maligned of all insects in Australia, termites play a critical role in the nutrient cycle in arid Australian ecosystems. Termites are Nature’s great recyclers. They convert cellulose, a very difficult material to digest, into a product that improves soil fertility and provides for nutrient uptake by other plants and animals. Few creatures can digest cellulose. Termites are assisted by specialised organisms such as bacteria and protozoa in their gut, that break down the woody cellulose into digestible sugars. The cellulose busters are transferred between termites during grooming sessions. (Even termites need some TLC!) Often incorrectly called ‘white ants’, termites are not ants at all. More closely related to cockroaches than ants, termites belong to the order Isoptera with several different families represented. The social insects, ants, bees and wasps, all belong to the order Hymenoptera. Weighing in at about eight milligrams, and almost transparent, termites do not have the slim waistlines of ants. Soft-bodied and wingless, they dry out very quickly once removed from the protective humidity of their hidden chambers. Not all termites eat wood. In fact many species feed on grasses. Throughout the Flinders Ranges, termites can be found in river red gum, mallee and spinifex communities, and indeed even on ground with very little vegetation cover, where they harvest the fine sticks of desiccated annuals. Like the social insects, the termite colony functions as a caste system. A termite nymph’s destiny, as worker, soldier or future monarch is probably determined by a hormonal process. Alates, a small privileged caste of winged males and females, leave the colony on humid evenings usually after rain, as a cloud of ‘flying ants’. They drop their wings a short distance away, mate and establish a new kingdom. The architectural ambitions of Flinders Ranges termites are fairly modest. Most species have low mounded or subterranean nests. Have you ever wondered why slate billiard tables are so perfectly flat? Or why slate roofing tiles or pavers can be split finely yet retain great strength? Believe it or not, it is all about cleavage. Laid down as sedimentary mudstones and shales, slates are rocks that have been altered by heat and pressure during periods of deep burial and subsequent mountain-building. During the alteration process the minerals in the parent rock are rearranged and the crystals align in a preferred direction or plane. This is described as ‘slaty cleavage’. The result is a rock that tends to split in one direction. The fracture plane is the one with the least cohesion. Slates can be split into ever smaller pieces, ultimately back to individual grains. Despite its tendency to split, slate is a strong and durable rock and is widely used in the building and landscaping industries. A bit of advice: if you want to use the Internet to learn more about how slates form, don’t Google ‘cleavage’. The results might not be what you expected. Colourful slates from Arkaroola’s Welcome Pound NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES SOUTH AUSTRALIA FROM THE ARK NEWSLETTER FIVE WINTER 2006 AUSTRALIA Page 4 ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY GALACTIC GOSSIP CONSERVATION & RESEARCH A GLUTTONY OF GOATS A rhumba of rattlesnakes, a coalition of cheetahs, a parliament of owls, a leap of leopards. The collective nouns for groups of animals often evoke an essential aspect of their behaviour. So what about a gluttony of goats? Domestic goats were introduced to the Flinders Ranges in the 1850’s by European settlers. Some animals from abandoned herds survived the great drought of the 1860’s, establishing wild populations. In a largely predatorfree landscape, goats were able to build their herd sizes for more than a century before any active management began. Feral goats destroy natural vegetation and foul waterholes and springs. They compete with native animals for food and shelter resources. The most critical impacts occur during and immediately after droughts, when goats can displace animals such as vulnerable yellow-footed rock wallabies from their home ranges. Feral goat numbers exploded in the northern Flinders Ranges following record wet years in the early 1970’s. In response, Dr Reg Sprigg initiated goat control on his Arkaroola property. A log book documenting culling operations that spanned more than thirty years, provides a graphic picture of the scale of infestation. Tens of thousands of goats were removed in three decades, at a time when very little control was occurring on other properties. For the past thirteen years, the Department for Environment and Heritage (DEH) has delivered a strategic feral goat management program across protected areas in the Flinders Ranges. But feral goats do not recognise property boundaries. For effective long term control, the migration of animals back and forth between properties must be managed at a district level. With Natural Heritage Trust (NHT) funding, the program was extended in the late 1990’s and was offered to neighbouring properties. A pioneering advocate of the need for regional feral goat control, Arkaroola welcomed the opportunity to participate and has remained one of the program’s staunchest supporters. Today goat numbers in the northern Flinders Ranges are much lower than they were fifteen years ago. Climate change may bring added stresses to native plant and animal communities in the Flinders Ranges. If native species are to have the best chance of adapting and surviving into the future, a low feral goat population must be maintained across the region. PLANET IN (PARENTHESIS) One of nine or one of multitudes, in which cosmic community does Pluto reside? Known for 75 years as the ninth planet of our solar system, Pluto has recently been reclassified as Minor Planet 134340. The controversial decision made by the International Astronomical Union (IAU) has triggered intense debate among astronomers. Derived from ancient mythology, Pluto was the Roman God of the Underworld. Charon, Pluto’s satellite, was a mythical Greek character who ferried the dead across the River Styx to Hades. A union forged in a far-flung realm of perpetual darkness, the metaphor for Pluto and Charon is powerful. Dwarf planet and moon, the two may have once been a single celestial body, bowled over and fragmented by a past cosmic blow. The only ‘wandering’ planet, Pluto has a steeply inclined and highly elliptical orbit and rotates in the opposite direction from most other planets. Their faces locked in an eternal gaze, Pluto and Charon rotate at the same pace, a process known as synchronous rotation. (The synchronous orbits of earth’s artificial satellites deliver us our modern communications systems). Smaller than all the other planets and seven of the moons in our solar system, Pluto is the only ’planet’ not to have been visited by a spacecraft. The Hubble Space telescope has captured images of the dwarf planet’s largest features, but no detailed images of Pluto exist. Launched in January 2006, the spacecraft New Horizons should reach Pluto in 2015. It will map and photograph Pluto and Charon at close range. The composition of Pluto is thought to be a mixture of 70% rock and 30% ice. Little is known about its atmosphere. But as it is probably a mix of nitrogen, carbon monoxide and methane, it is unlikely that Antoine de Saint Exupéry’s Little Prince will leave asteroid B612 for the dwarf planet 134340. Large feral goat herds are now the exception rather than the rule The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint Exupéry published in 1943 is a compulsory read for adults and children. NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES SOUTH AUSTRALIA FROM THE ARK NEWSLETTER FIVE WINTER 20056 AUSTRALIA Page 5 ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY PRODUCT INFORMATION FROM THE ARK POSTCARD IF YOU LIKE THE LOOK OF OUR POSTCARD OPPOSITE THEN BATS & BOOBOOKS IS DEFINITELY FOR YOU. On your next visit to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary join one of our experienced guides and head out at dusk to one of Arkaroola’s permanent waterholes. Watch as yellow-footed rock wallabies and euros come down to drink in the early evening light. Over a wonderful antipasto platter and a glass of bubbly, listen and watch for bats as they leave their roosting sites to feed on insects. Using special bat detector boxes, our guides track the ultrasonic sound signatures made by different bat species. On your way back to the village listen for the evocative ‘mopoke’ call of southern boobook owls as they leave their hollows in the River red gums to hunt. Treat yourself to an evening that you will never forget. Price: Duration : Availability: $55 per person or $150 per family (2A + 2C) 3 hours On demand BATS AND BOOBOOKS Bolla Bollana Waterhole and Spring at Dusk October 2006 Arkaroola Guide John Wolf leading a Bats & Boobooks Tour at dusk To join our mailing list just email us at [email protected] For a print-friendly download visit our website at www.arkaroola.com.au NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES SOUTH AUSTRALIA FROM THE ARK NEWSLETTER FIVE WINTER 2006 AUSTRALIA Page 6
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