COURSE NOTES
Modules 1
(revised October 2011)
Shepherds Falkiners, 76 Southampton Row
London WC1B 4AR
+44(0)207 831 1151
The Daffodil Barn, Nursery Farm, Woodborough, Near Pewsey, Wiltshire, SN9 5PF
+44(0)1672 851979
www.bookbinding.co.uk
FIRST PRINCIPLES - GRAIN DIRECTION
Most materials have a ‘grain direction’ and it is important to spend
a little time understanding this principle and why it is so important in
bookbinding.
The general rule is that all materials that make a book, for example
paper, cloth, and board, should have their grain running from head to
tail in the �nished book (1). Failure to observe this rule can cause the
book covers to warp when materials with opposing grains are glued
together.
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Books with sewn sections always lie �atter, and open better, if the
grain of the paper in the bookblock is running correctly.
How to determine the grain direction
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Looked at under a microscope, the �bres of a material
such as paper would be seen to lie in parallel lines,
rather like logs �oating down a river (2). These lines,
or direction of �ow, indicate the grain direction.
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The �bres which make up a piece of paper or board behave
in exactly the same way as the diagram above.
Importantly, materials bend more easily across the grain
than against it so you can tell the grain direction of a sheet
of paper by testing on which side there is greater resistance
to bending (3).
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Paper with the grain running along the longer edge is described as ‘long
grain’. Paper with the grain runing along the shorter edge is called
‘short grain’ (4).
Another way to test the grain direction of paper is to drag your �nger
and thumb along the long edge and the short edge of a piece of paper.
One edge will cockle more than the other (5).
Again, this is rather like the logs �oating down the river (2). Pull the
�bres along the grain and they slide along each other. Pull the �bres
across the grain and they bunch up, causing the paper to cockle.
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SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS
SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS - Module 1 Page1
MODULE 1 - SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS
A Quarter-cloth Notebook
There are three stages in making this binding.
1. The �rst stage is to make the ‘bookblock’. In this exercise the bookblock is made from six sheets of A4 paper, folded togther to form a
single set of folded leaves.
2. The second stage is to make the outside cover, uually known
as ‘the case‘.
3. The �nal stage is to glue the bookblock to the case. This process is known as ‘casing-in’.
Stage 1 - Making the bookblock
Take six sheets of A4 paper (must be long grain) and one at a time carefully fold each sheet in half as shown
below (1a,b,c). The edges of the paper should meet as closely as possible. With a knife slit each fold just beyond
the halfway mark (2); slitting the paper in this way helps to prevent the paper creasing when the paper is folded
again. Now fold the sheets in half a second time at 90deg to the �rst, to form six four-leaf sections (3 a,b).
IMPORTANT
When selecting materials care must be given to ensure that the grain of each material runs from head to tail.
Note how when the paper is folded as in the diagram below the grain remains in the correct direction.
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When all six sheets have been folded twice, open each four-leaf section at the middle and insert one into another.
The result is a single twenty-four-leaf bookblock with the grain running from head to tail (4).
Take two sheets of coloured paper (5) and fold in half, again making sure the grain of the paper is running head to
tail. These coloured sheets will form the endpapers and should not be less than 90gsm in weight. The endpapers
must be big enough to cover the bookblock and preferably slightly larger. They will be trimmed after sewing. If
time allows put the bookblock under a heavy weight to let the paper settle.
The bookblock is now ready for sewing (6).
SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS - Module 1 Page 2
Stage 1 - Sewing the bookblock
To strengthen the sewing structure, cut a piece of mull or calico wide enough
to overlap the bookblock by approximately 15mm (5/8in) on each side and
slighly shorter than the length of the bookblock (1&2). Fold it around the spine.
Keeping the edges of the paper as level as possible, open the bookblock at
the middle and insert paper clips at the head and tail of the pages to hold the
materials in place (2). This will assist in keeping the materials in place during
the sewing process.
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Hold the book half open and, using a sharp needle (or bodkin), make one hole at the centre of the fold and two
others approximately 50mm (2in) on either side (3). The holes should be clearly visible from the outside (4). Thread
the needle, twist and slightly unravel the thread, pass the point of the needle through the opened thread (5) and
draw the ‘knot’ tight (6). This will secure the thread without making a large knot that could tear the paper. Working
from the inside of the bookblock, push the needle through the centre hole (7).
From the outside of the bookblock, continue by pushing the needle through one of the other holes, leaving about
50mm (2in) of loose thread inside the bookblock. Bring the needle out through the centre hole again and �nally
push it though the last hole to form the ‘�gure of eight’ path in the diagram (8).
TIP
If the bookblock is held over the edge of a wooden block or table, it will make it easier to guide the bodkin and
the needle through the centre of the fold (3).
Tighten any loops by pulling the thread parallel to
the spine of the bookblock (9). Once the needle has
passed through the third hole, the needle end of the
thread can be joined to the to the loose end on the
inside centre hole with a simple knot as shown
in the diagram below (10).
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Tie a reef knot on the inside.
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The ends should be trimmed off with
10mm (3/8in) to spare (11).
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The paper clips can be removed and
the bookblock is now ready for
trimming. If time allows, place sewn
bookblock under a weight to reduce
swelling.
SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS - Module 1 Page 3
Stage 1 - Making the bookblock continued
With the sewing completed the bookblock and endpapers can be
trimmed. Start with the long edge (fore-edge). Flip through the
pages to determine the unevenness of the edges. If the paper was
folded neatly, only a small amount of trimming will be necessary.
Determine the trimming point by eye and using a ruler, draw a
pencil line on the endpaper parallel with the spine, see below (1).
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Align one side of a set square against the fore-edge
and draw trimming lines at the head and tail of the
bookblock (2&3).
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Trimming must be carried out with a sharp knife and
steel-edged safety rule (4). It is only possible to cut
thin books in this way and, even then, it will take
several cuts with a knife to penetrate the layers of
paper.
After trimming the edges, tidy-up the mull by cutting
off the ends at an angle (5). The bookblock is now
completed and can be put to one side while you
make the case.
To keep the bookblock as �at as possible place it
under a heavy weight.
TIP
Let the knife do the work - don’t try to cut the book in one go; repeated light strokes will cut the bookblock
more ef�ciently.
Stage 2 - Making the Case
As stated at the beginning of this project, there are three
stages to this exercise. The �rst stage, making the bookblock, has been completed and its now time to make the
case.
Remember that the �rst function of the case is to protect the
bookblock and make the book strong and durable.
The second function of the case is to make the book an
attractive object; and that is where the choice of covering
materials and careful workmanship play an important role.
The spine will be made from a piece of bookcloth and the boards will be covered in a patterned paper. Bookcloth
is stronger than paper and that is why it is used to cover the spine where the book gets the most wear.
But the �rst task is to cut the boards to size and make sure they overlap the edges of the bookblock to suf�ciently
protect the edges of the paper.
SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS - Module 1 Page 4
Stage 2 - Making the Case continued
Cut the cover boards to size as shown in the diagram below (1). The cover boards must allow a 5mm (3/16in)
overhang at head, tail and fore-edge, and an inset of 5mm at the spine to allow room for the hinge(2).
Don’t forget to check the grain direction of the boards - the grain must run from head to tail.
Boards can be cut by �rst measuring with a ruler or, alternatively, the cutting marks can be calculated by holding
the bookblock against the board and marking off by eye. Use a set square to achieve good right-angles.
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Holding the bookblock and boards in position, take a piece of waste paper and wrap it around the spine (3). Using
a pencil, mark off where the paper touches the edge of the boards. This will give a measurement for the spine
width (4).
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Cut a piece of waste board to this
width; this will serve as a gauge for
positioning the cover boards (5). A gauge
is particularly useful if you are making a
number of books to the same size.
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Now make a pencil line on each board
to determine how far the cloth spine will
overlap the boards (6).
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Cut the spine cloth to this width (6) ensuring
it includes the width of the spine gap (4).
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The length of the cloth should allow a
15mm (5/8in) turn-in at head and tail (8).
NOTE
The distance by which the cloth overlaps the boards (6) determines the �nal appearance of the book. The
proportion of bookcloth to pattern paper is an entirely visual judgement.
Using PVA mixed with some paste,
glue-out the cloth (7).
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Position the spine gauge in the
centre. Lay the boards against the
gauge, taking care to keep them
level at the head and tail (8).
At this stage, the glue should have
enough ‘slip’ to make any necessary
adjustments. Remove the gauge.
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SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS - Module 1 Page 5
Stage 2 - Making the Case continued
Without disturbing the covers, carefully turn in the spine cloth where it overlaps at the head and tail and rub down
with a bone folder (1). Take a little time to achieve good tight creases where it folds over at the boards and spine.
Turn the assembly over so that the spine cloth is uppermost, rub down the spine cloth to remove any creases.
Cut out two sheets of pattern paper for the sides, large enough to cover the rest of the boards and overlap the
edges by approximate 15mm (5/8in) (2). Glue out these paper covers, one sheet at a time, using a fresh sheet of
waste paper underneath (3).
‘Pitch’ each glued cover paper on to the cover boards (4). Paper when glued has a habit of curling and this can
make positioning dif�cult. With the paper lying glued-side uppermost (to counteract any curl) turn the edge furthest
from the spine over to meet the cloth edge. The paper should overlap the cloth by about 2mm (1/16in). When
positioning the cover paper, take care to ensure that the edge runs parallel with the spine (5).
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Before turning in the sides, cut the paper diagonally at about 2mm (1/16in) from the corners (6). Turn in the head
and tail and pinch the corners in with the �ngernails or bone folder, before turning in the fore-edge (7). When
turning cloth or paper over the boards, carefully stretch the material tightly over the edges. If necessary, apply
more glue to the edges of the cover paper before turning in.
NOTE
Turn the cover paper over and gently bone down the cover paper to eliminate any air pockets. Leave the case to
dry under a weight before the next stage of ‘casing-in’ the bookblock. This will help to keep the case �at.
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SINGLE-SECTION BINDINGS - Module 1 Page 6
Stage 3 - Casing-in
The process of casing-in attaches the case to the bookblock and completes the binding.
Lay the dried-out case �at on the table with the outside facing down (1). Position the bookblock on one of the cover
boards, ensuring that the squares are correct (2). Glue the endpaper underneath the mull. Then, working outwards
to the edges, glue-out the whole endpaper (3). Great care must be taken not to get glue on the edges of the paper
of the bookblock.
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TIP
To prevent glue getting on the edges of the bookblock, place a sheet of clean waste paper underneath the
endpaper before gluing - but take care to remove it carefully before casing-in.
Hold the bookblock in position and pull the cover board over to meet the glued paper (4). Immediately turn the
book over and open up the other board (5). Keeping the glued board and endpaper �at against the surface,
carefully lift the bookblock far enough to slip your hand in over the glued endpaper (6). If necessary, adjust the
position of the endpaper by gently sliding it into position. The endpaper should lie reasonably square to the boards
and once you are satis�ed with its position, rub the paper down with the tips of your �ngers. Take care to rub the
paper down well into the spine.
Do not be tempted to lift the board too far back as this may stretch the paper and cause it to
cockle and crease.
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Turn the book over and repeat the operation for the other endpaper (3&4). Cut some silicone-release paper (or
greaseproof), and insert between the inside boards and the free endpaper. This will stop any surplus glue from
sticking where it should not and also help to prevent moisture from the boards penetrating the bookblock
as it dries.
With a bone folder, or similar tool,
gently �nd the crease where the
board edge becomes the spine
and run the tool along the edge to
de�ne the line of the hinge (7).
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Finally, put the book between pressing boards,
and leave it to dry under a heavy weight (8).
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