FASHION FRAMEWORK
COLLAR
LESSON
BY ARENDA HOLLADAY
The Fashion Framework article in the February-April 2010 issue
discussed pullovers with special attention to neckline treatments. In that
article there was a brief discussion of collars but it focused primarily on
neckline shaping and different ways to finish necklines.
can be wide or narrow (to accommodate a placket). The pattern for the
Man’s Shawl Collar sweater which follows uses this type of neckline.
I looked at many different patterns for sweaters with collars to prepare
for this article. I came to the conclusion that each collar was unique.
There were no general rules for working a collar. The only consistency I
noticed was that patterns for sweaters with collars, if knit from the waist
up, supplied specific instructions for shaping the neckline, and the collar
was added as part of the finishing process. (There are exceptions to this,
of course. For example, the Cozy Cardigan on page 15 is worked top
down and the collar is worked first.) When you knit a sweater front or
fronts, the pattern will provide some type of instruction on how to shape
the neckline. There are four basic neckline shapings:
Bands – This is the most common type of neckline finishing and can be
used on any type of neckline shaping. Stitches are picked up along the
neckline edge and several rows are worked. K1P1, K2P2, Garter stitch,
and Seed stitch patterns are frequently used. Turtlenecks are a variation
of a band rather than a collar, and generally a round or boat neck
shaping is used and the band is worked to the desired length.
Rounded – This type of neckline is generally shaped by first binding off
center stitches. Additional stitches are bound off on either side. Some
patterns require symmetrical decreases as well. Most sweaters with a
collar use this type of shaping. The depth of the neckline varies.
V – This type of neckline is shaped by first binding off one or more
stitches in the center. Mirrored decreases are then made on each side
of the neckline. Most patterns require the decreases to be made every
fourth or sixth row.
Boat – Sometimes no shaping at all is required for this neckline. Some
patterns require center stitches to be bound off.
Square – This type of neckline is shaped by binding off center stitches
and working each side independently with no decreases. The opening
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In addition to collars, the other types of neckline finishing include:
Hoods – Generally one of two methods is used to work a hood. Stitches
are picked up along the neck edge and worked to the top of the hood.
The top is seamed or grafted. Other hoods are worked from the front
edge to the back. The back is seamed or grafted and the hood is seamed
to the body. A “T” construction is sometimes used as well. (The Fashion
Framework article in the November 2011-January 2012 issue includes
specific information on hoods.)
None – This type of neckline requires no additional finishing. The
neckline shaping is all that is required. The Easiest Sweater Ever, the
Confident Beginner pattern in the August-October 2015 issue has this
type of neckline.
Collars
There are very many different types of collars found in knitted garments.
continued on page 22
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FASHION FRAMEWORK
ILLUSTRATION 1
PETER PAN
ILLUSTRATION 4
COWL
ILLUSTRATION 2
STRAIGHT
ILLUSTRATION 5
SAILOR
continued from page 21
The most common types are Peter Pan
(Illustration 1), Straight (Illustration 2),
Straight Spread (Illustration 3), Cowl
(Illustration 4), Ruffled (Ruffles and Lace
Sweater, page 33), Mandarin (Linen Ridge
Stitch Jacket, August-October 2015), Sailor
(Illustration 5), Shawl (Illustration 6), and
Lapel (Illustration 7).
When selecting a pattern for a garment, review
it to see how the collar is worked. Some factors
to consider:
• Is the collar worked separately and then
sewn on or do you pick up stitches and knit
it as part of the garment? Quite a few of the
older patterns I reviewed specified that the
collar be worked separately. For some collar
styles like the Sailor, shaping and fit will be
smoother if it is knit separately and sewn in
place.
•
Does the collar stand up or fold over? The
Mandarin collar style always stands up. You
pick up stitches for a stand-up collar with
the right side of the work facing. This places
the “seam” on the inside of the work. If the
collar folds over, you pick up stitches with
the wrong side facing. This places the
“seam” on the outside of the neckline but
it will be covered by the collar. If you want
the collar to be worn both ways depending
on the mood of the wearer, refer to the
Finishing with Confidence article in this
issue, which discusses the double pick up
ILLUSTRATION 3
STRAIGHT
SPREAD
ILLUSTRATION 6
SHAWL
ILLUSTRATION 7
LAPEL
technique. Placing the neckline stitches on a
holder rather than binding them off can
solve this problem as well.
•
What is the stitch pattern for the collar?
Many collars are worked in stitch patterns
which are reversible like ribbing, Seed or
Garter stitch. This is important if the collar
will be worn up or down. These stitch
patterns do not curl. If a collar is worked in
stockinette stitch, it is often lined or has a
band around the edges.
• Is there a collar stand? A collar stand, a
dressmaking term, refers to the band of
fabric between the neck edge and the collar
and helps the collar to “stand up” on your
neck before it folds down. In knitting, the
collar stand is ribbing worked with smaller
needles before the collar is worked. The
Ruffles and Lace Sweater features a collar
stand.
•
Does the collar require larger (or smaller)
needles? For a stand-up collar, smaller
needles may be needed to create a denser
fabric. For the Straight, Shawl, and Cowl
collars, larger needles may be used to soften
the drape of the fold.
•
How is the collar shaped? There are a variety
of ways to shape a collar. Collars that fold
over may require additional width for the
collar to lie flat. This can be accomplished
in a variety of ways. The Straight and
Straight Spread are the same collar with one
difference. For the Straight Spread collar to
extend further over the fronts, it must be
22 Cast On I Winter 15/16
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wider. This can be accomplished through a
variety of techniques. One method is to
change to needles a size or two larger.
Another method is to increase stitches
at the selvedges of the collar fronts. Evenly
spaced increases can also be used. For
example, invisible increases in a ribbing
pattern can be incorporated into the stitch
pattern. A K2P2 can transition to K2P3 to
provide additional width to a Spread
Straight or Cowl collar.
•
Is the collar wider at the back? For a Shawl
Collar to lie properly, it must be longer at
the back. Some designers do this for other
types of collars that fold. Short rows are used
to accomplish this. After stitches are picked
up and the inside of the collar is worked,
short rows are worked along the back of the
collar to extend the length. For Shawl collars,
another technique may be used. For the
pattern that accompanies this article, you
begin picking up stitches for the collar three
inches from the neckline bottom. As each
row is worked, three additional stitches are
picked up on each side. This makes the collar
wider at the back.
If you quickly review the sweaters in this issue
that have collars, you will see each neckline
is shaped in a unique manner and there is no
general plan for how the collar is worked.
Bibliography Michelson, Carmen and Davis, MaryAnnWiseman, The Knitter’s Book to Sweater
Design, Interweave Press, Loveland, CO, 1989,
pages 269-279.
Newton, Deborah, Designing Knitwear, The
Taunton Press, Newton, CT, 1998, pages 220226.
Paden, Shirley, Knitwear Design Workshop,
Interweave Press, Loveland, CO, 2009, pages
225-249.
A special thanks to Jan Yon for her perfect
illustrations provided at a moment’s notice!
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SHAWL
COLLAR
SWEATER
BY ARENDA HOLLADAY
BEYOND THE PATTERN: This sweater
features a very wide shawl collar. Instead
of using short rows to shape the collar,
stitches are picked up beginning 5" from
the bottom of the neck opening. As you
turn for each row, an additional stitch is
picked up.
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X)
Finished Measurements:
Chest: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)"
Length: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27, 28)"
Materials:
Berroco ULTRA ALPACA LIGHT (50g/1.75oz,
144 yds/133m, 50% Super Fine Alpaca, 50%
Peruvian Wool): 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18) skeins
#4217 Tupelo
Sizes 6 (4.0mm) and 7(4.5mm) needles or size
to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Gauge:
In P1K5 Rib, 24 sts & 32 rows = 4"/10cm. To
save time, take time to check gauge.
Stitch Pattern:
P1K5 Rib (multiple of 6 sts +1)
Row 1 (RS): *P1, k5; rep from * until last st, p1.
Row 2 (WS): K1, *p5, k1; rep from * to end.
DESIGNER NOTES: When I knit this sweater
I used the Judy’s Magic Cast On technique to
work a tubular cast on.
continued on page 24
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in pat as est until piece meas 23 (24, 25, 26, 27,
28)". BO in pat.
DESIGNER NOTE: If you used a tubular cast on
for the back and front, use one for the sleeves
as well. As you add new stitches, incorporate
them into the pattern. To facilitate finishing,
make sure you place the increases at least one
stitch in from the selvedge stitch.
Sleeves (Make 2)
With smaller needles, CO 62 (62, 62, 68, 68,
68) sts.
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: Rep Row 1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until ribbing meas 1.5",
ending on RS. Inc 1 st in final row of ribbing –
63 (63, 63, 69, 69, 69) sts.
Change to larger needles. Est Pat (RS): K4, *p1,
k5; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k4. Work in pat
for 0.5". Inc 1 st at each edge every 4th row 4 (6,
8, 6, 7, 7) times, every 6th row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5)
times and every 8th row 14 (14, 14, 14, 16, 18)
times – 105 (109, 113, 117, 123, 129) sts. Work
in pat as est until sleeve meas 19 (20, 21, 22, 22,
22)". BO in pat.
Finishing
Block all pieces. Sew the shoulder seams.
continued from page 23
A regular cast on can be used instead. For
information and videos on tubular cast on
techniques, refer to the Index of Knitting Tips in
my blog at www.arendaholladay.com.
An even number of stitches is cast on for the
ribbing so that the K1P1 ribbing pattern is
continued when the pieces are seamed. One
stitch is increased in the final row of ribbing to
accommodate the P1K5 ribbing pattern.
Back
With smaller needles, CO 104 (116, 128, 140,
152, 164) sts.
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: Rep Row 1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until ribbing meas 1.5",
ending on RS. Inc 1 st in final row of ribbing –
105 (117, 129, 141, 149, 153, 165) sts.
Change to larger needles. Est Pat (RS): K4, *p1,
k5; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k4. Work in pat
as est until back meas 23 (24, 25, 26, 27, 28)".
BO in pat.
DESIGNER NOTE: The front is worked as for the
back until the neck opening. The neck opening
is deep due to accommodate the shawl collar.
If you do not want a wide shawl collar work
several more inches than specified before
shaping the neckline. To prepare for the collar,
center stitches are bound off and each side is
worked separately.
Front
Work as for the Back until the piece meas 14
(14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16.5)" ending on a WS row.
Work 35 (40, 45, 50, 55, 60) sts in pat as est. BO
35 (37, 39, 41, 43, 45) sts. Work to end of row
in pat as est. Working each side separately, work
VIDEO LINKS
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DESIGNER NOTES: The shawl collar should be
worked in a looser gauge than the bottom band
and cuffs. Use the larger needles. The collar
should be wider at the back of the neck. To
accomplish this, you begin picking up stitches
5.5" from the bottom of the neck opening. You
pick up 3 additional stitches at each side every
time you turn the work. Use the Video Link to
see a demonstration of how to do this. The
result is the same as if you picked up all of the
stitches and worked short rows.
The pattern specifies that the width of the collar
at the left and right selvedges is 4 or 4.5". The
neck opening is wider. If you would like the
collar to overlap completely, work additional
rows.
Shawl Collar
Place a pin or safety pin 5.5" from the bound
off edge at the bottom of the neck opening on
both sides. With RS facing pick up sts along the
right front beginning at the pin, neck back and
left front to the pin. *Turn and work in K1P1
ribbing to the last st worked. Pick up three new
stitches; rep from * until sts have been picked
up along the whole neckline. Work in pat as
est until the collar at the front meas 4". Work a
tubular bind off. Seam selvedge of right side to
bottom of neck opening. Seam selvedge of left
side to bottom of neck opening, overlapping it
over right side.
Sew sleeves to body. Sew side and sleeve seams.
Weave in ends.
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