Journal
Journalof
ofCoastal
CoastalResearch
Research
SI 64
pg -- pg
1170
1174
ICS2011
ICS2011 (Proceedings)
Poland
ISSN 0749-0208
Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit morphodynamics
J.Rosa†, P. A. Silva†, X. Bertin‡ and A. B. Fortunato§
† Departamento de
Física, CESAM
Universidade de
Aveiro, Aveiro
3810-193, Portugal
[email protected]
[email protected]
‡ Université de La Rochelle,
Institut du Littoral et de
l’Environement (ILE), La Rochelle
17000, France
[email protected]
§ Departamento de Hidráulica e
Ambiente, Laboratório Nacional de
Engenharia Civil, Lisboa
1700-066, Portugal
[email protected]
ABSTRACT
Rosa, J., Silva P.A., Bertin, X., Fortunato A.B., 2011. Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit
morphodynamics. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64 (Proceedings of the 11th International Coastal
Symposium), 1170 – 1174. Szczecin, Poland, ISSN 0749-0208
Due to the increasing demand of sand for construction and beach nourishment, offshore extraction is being
considered as an alternative source. Long term morphological changes caused by such an extraction must be
predicted because they can affect the sediments budget and potentially promote coastal erosion. Numerical
models are powerful tools that can help in the evaluation of environmental impacts induced by this activity.
The objective of this study is to describe the morphodynamics in the area surrounding a sandpit through the use
of the MORSYS2D modelling system. The sandpit under study is located offshore Vale do Lobo, an important
beach and golf resort located on the Southern Portuguese coast. The numerical solutions of the mean flow and
the wave height around the pit were obtained with MORSYS2D between March 28 and April 29, 2008 when two
storm events with significant wave height (Hs) greater than 2.5 m occurred.
The numerical results are analysed in terms of the sand fluxes and bathymetry changes induced by wind and tidal
currents and wave orbital velocities. The results show the strong impact of storm events in the morphologic
evolution of the pit and surrounding area. The value for Hs > 2.5m was also confirmed as determinant for the
sediment dynamics.
ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: sand extraction, continental shelf, morphodynamic model
INTRODUCTION
Marine sand and gravel extraction is increasingly gaining
significance due to an overall growing demand, supply shortages
of land-based aggregates, improved mining technologies and
advantages with respect to quality, availability and transport
(Diesing et al., 2004). The mining areas need to be situated in the
offshore shoreface zone to minimize the effects on nearshore
coastal erosion. Simultaneously, the mining cost increases with
depth and the distance from shore. Therefore, finding the optimum
balance between the effect on the coast and the costs of mining is
required (Van Rijn et al., 2005).
The presence of the dredged pit may change the location of
wave breaking and modify the wave field through refraction and,
to a lesser extent, diffraction. These changes lead to modified
long-shore sediment transport patterns that can alter the shoreline
plan-form (Demir et al., 2004). Modification of the tidal- and
wind-induced mean flows at the sandpit and surrounding areas
may also change the local sediment transport balance. The
hydrodynamics conditions also dictate the movement of the
sandpit and its infilling rate, and therefore the persistence of the
bathymetric perturbation in time.
A recent example of beach erosion and coastal retreat is the
Vale do Lobo beach case, located on the Southern Portuguese
coast.
This coastal stretch presents vertical cliffs with maximum
heights of 26 m. Between 1991 and 1999 the cliffs have retreated,
on average, 1 m/year (Oliveira, 2005). In order to mitigate the
intense coastal erosion affecting the coastline stretch along Vale
do Lobo, beach nourishment was undertaken. Two nourishment
operations were performed, in 1999 and in 2006. In both cases,
sand was extracted from the shoreface, at depths between 1520 m. Figure 1 presents the bathymetry in the vicinity of the sand
pit at Vale do Lobo coastal zone, in May 2006, immediately after
the second extraction. The sandpit had approximately a
rectangular shape, with 750 m length and 250 m width, and was
located 4000 m away from the shore. The longest side was aligned
with the bathymetric contours. The average depth of the
excavation was around 3 m.
The objective of the present study is to assess the importance of
storms in the sediment transport field and in the morphological
variations of the 2006 dredged pit bathymetry.
For this purpose, the following research questions were set:
1) What is the impact of tidal and wind induced current
velocities, wave height and near bed orbital velocities on the
dredged sandpit evolution?
2) What is the area of morphodynamic influence of the pit?
To answer these questions, the morphodynamic model
MORSYS2D was applied to the study area, considering the 2006
bathymetric configuration.
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
1170
Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit morphodynamics
Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit morphodynamics
IMPACT OF HYDRODYNAMICS IN THE
IMPACTSANDPIT
OF HYDRODYNAMICS
EVOLUTION IN THE
SANDPIT EVOLUTION
Waves, Wind and Flow
Waves, Wind and Flow
N
N
A
A
A’
A’
B
B
B’
B’
Figure 1. Sandpit bathymetry and transects.
Figure 1. Sandpit bathymetry and transects.
SETUP OF THE NUMERICAL MODELS
SETUP OF THE NUMERICAL MODELS
The MORSYS2D morphodynamic modelling system (Bertin et
al.,The
2009)
couples themorphodynamic
sand transport and
bottomsystem
evolution
model
MORSYS2D
modelling
(Bertin
et
SAND2D
(Fortunato
and transport
Oliveira, and
2004),
theevolution
hydrodynamic
al., 2009) couples
the sand
bottom
model
model
ELCIRC
(Zhangand
et al.,
2004) 2004),
and the the
wave
propagation
SAND2D
(Fortunato
Oliveira,
hydrodynamic
model SWAN
(Booij
et al.,
ELCIRC
(Zhang
et 1996).
al., 2004) and the wave propagation
ELCIRC
is an
open-source
three-dimensional baroclinic shallow
model
SWAN
(Booij
et al., 1996).
water
modelis that
combines finite
volumes, finite
differences
and
ELCIRC
an open-source
three-dimensional
baroclinic
shallow
Eulerian-Lagrangian
concepts
to volumes,
obtain stability,
accuracy, and
water model that combines
finite
finite differences
mass
conservation toconcepts
solve the
shallowstability,
water equations.
Eulerian-Lagrangian
to obtain
accuracy, The
and
horizontal
domain to
is solve
discretized
with a water
triangular
mesh The
for
mass conservation
the shallow
equations.
flexibility,
and z-coordinates
are with
used a intriangular
the vertical.
horizontal domain
is discretized
mesh The
for
unstructured
grid z-coordinates
used for ELCIRC
the present
has 6710
flexibility, and
are inused
in thestudy,
vertical.
The
nodes
a minimum
spacing
of 5 m in
at the
the present
sandpitstudy,
location
unstructured
grid used
for ELCIRC
hasand
6710a
maximum
of 1500 m.
Within
a singlelocation
verticaland
layera
nodes a minimum
spacing
of MORSYS2D
5 m at the sandpit
is
used. of 1500 m. Within MORSYS2D a single vertical layer
maximum
is SWAN
used. is a wave model that computes random, short-crested
wind-generated
waves
in coastal
regionsrandom,
and inland
waters.
SWAN is a wave
model
that computes
short-crested
SAND2D
is a sand
transport
and bottom
model
that
wind-generated
waves
in coastal
regions evolution
and inland
waters.
computes
through
empirical
formulae
SAND2D sediment
is a sandfluxes
transport
and semi
bottom
evolution
model (for
that
example, Soulsby
Van Rijn
and Bijker;
Soulsby 1997).
Figure
computes
sediment& fluxes
through
semi empirical
formulae
(for2
shows theSoulsby
computational
usedBijker;
for theSoulsby
three models.
example,
& Van grids
Rijn and
1997). Figure 2
The numerical
model configuration
shows
the computational
grids used for for
the the
threepresent
models.application
includes
the most model
representative
forcings
wind and
waves),
The numerical
configuration
for(tides,
the present
application
provided the
by most
regional
models of tides
(Fortunato
et al.,and
2002)
and
includes
representative
forcings
(tides, wind
waves),
waves (Dodet
et al., 2010).
provided
by regional
models of tides (Fortunato et al., 2002) and
From(Dodet
the different
sediment transport formulae available in
waves
et al., 2010).
MORSYS2D,
those of sediment
Soulsby-Van
Rijn and
Bijker were
chosen,
From the different
transport
formulae
available
in
with prescribed
values
of bottom roughness
that yield
best
MORSYS2D,
those
of Soulsby-Van
Rijn and Bijker
werethe
chosen,
resultsprescribed
for the morphodynamics
pit evolution.
constant
for
with
values of bottom
roughnessAthat
yield value
the best
the sediment
grain size, d50,
of 0.77 mm,
was assumed.
results
for themedian
morphodynamics
pit evolution.
A constant
value for
the sediment median grain size, d50, of 0.77 mm, was assumed.
The numerical solutions of the mean flow and the wave height
around
the pit obtained
with
between
and
The numerical
solutions
ofMORSYS2D
the mean flow
and theMarch
wave 28
height
April
are shown
Figure 3. Figure
3a represents
the
around29,
the2008
pit obtained
withinMORSYS2D
between
March 28 and
corresponding
wind field
for this
storm events
April 29, 2008WW3
are shown
in Figure
3. region.
Figure Two
3a represents
the
th
and 20
of
with
Hs greaterWW3
than wind
2.5mfield
occurred
between
5thstorm
corresponding
for this
region.the
Two
events
April
(Figure
3 b).than 2.5m occurred between the 5th and 20th of
with Hs
greater
The(Figure
time series
April
3 b). of depth-averaged flow velocity components
contain
tidalseries
fluctuations,
as previouslyflow
confirmed
analysis of
The time
of depth-averaged
velocitybycomponents
the
tidaltidal
ellipses
(Lopes etasal.,
2009; Figure
3c). Maximum
tidal
contain
fluctuations,
previously
confirmed
by analysis
of
currents
0.15
m/s when
whole
domain.
In
the tidal reach
ellipses
(Lopes
et al., considering
2009; Figurethe3c).
Maximum
tidal
the
vicinity
of 0.15
the study
area, considering
the tide is well
polarized,
aligned
currents
reach
m/s when
the whole
domain.
In
along
the N-S
and the
thetide
velocity
the vicinity
of thedirection
study area,
is well amplitude
polarized, reaches
aligned
maximum
of 0.05 m/sand
in spring
tides (Lopes
et al., 2009).
along the values
N-S direction
the velocity
amplitude
reaches
The mean
currents
arem/s
wellin correlated
the et
wind
field: in
maximum
values
of 0.05
spring tideswith
(Lopes
al., 2009).
periods
of calm
wind,are
both
u and
v valueswith
are the
small,
fluctuating
The mean
currents
well
correlated
wind
field: in
around
storm
events
greater
than are
2.5m,
coming
mainly
periods 0.
ofThe
calm
wind,
both (Hs
u and
v values
small,
fluctuating
from
with (Hs
strong
winds
(Figure
3a)
aroundSSW),
0. Thecoincide
storm events
greater
thanfrom
2.5m,NW
coming
mainly
which
inducecoincide
strong currents
standing
forfrom
SE of
approximately
from SSW),
with strong
winds
NW
(Figure 3a)
0.2
m/sinduce
(Figurestrong
3a, d).currents
The wave
orbital velocities
shown) are
which
standing
for SE of(not
approximately
always
low3a,(less
thanwave
0.1m/s)
except
for the(not
storm
periods
0.2 m/s very
(Figure
d). The
orbital
velocities
shown)
are
when
reach
of except
0.5 m/s.for the storm periods
alwaysthey
very
lowmaximum
(less thanvalues
0.1m/s)
when they reach maximum values of 0.5 m/s.
Fluxes and bathymetric changes
Fluxes and bathymetric changes
The computed sediment fluxes values present non-zero values
only
stormsediment
events, asfluxes
depicted
in Figure
3 b.
The estimated
Theduring
computed
values
present
non-zero
values
sediment
fluxes
the in
Bijker
present
only during
stormcomputed
events, as with
depicted
Figureformulation
3 b. The estimated
higher
values
thancomputed
for the Soulsby-Van
Rijn formula.
sediment
fluxes
with the Bijker
formulation present
Figure
4 shows
and direction
of sediment fluxes
higher
values
than the
for magnitude
the Soulsby-Van
Rijn formula.
around
and the
within
the pit computed
with of
thesediment
Bijker formula
Figurethe
4 pit
shows
magnitude
and direction
fluxes
for
9 April.
presents awith
preferential
around
the pitThe
and sediment
within theflux
pit computed
the Bijkerdirection
formula
NWaccording
to the flux
wind-induced
currentsdirection
but its
for 9 SE
April.
The sediment
presents amean
preferential
magnitude
is also determined
by the wave orbital
NW- SE according
to the wind-induced
mean velocities.
currents but its
The fluxes,
in general,
are by
southward
the northern
border of
magnitude
is also
determined
the waveatorbital
velocities.
theThe
pit fluxes,
and at the
south border
are parallel
longitudinal
in general,
are southward
at to
thethenorthern
borderaxis
of
of
thethe
pitpit.
and at the south border are parallel to the longitudinal axis
of the pit.
a)
a)
b)
b)
Figure 2. (a) SWAN nested grid and (b) Finite element grid used
in
ELCIRC
SAND2D.
(Depths
in meters
relative grid
to chart
Figure
2. (a) and
SWAN
nested grid
and (b)
Finite element
used
datum)
in ELCIRC and SAND2D. (Depths in meters relative to chart
datum)
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
1171
Rosa et al.
Rosa et al.
a)
a)
b)
b)
c)
c)
d)
d)
Figure 3. MORSYS2D results between March 28 and April 29, 2008: a) wind and current – velocity, direction and magnitude; b) wave
height
and sedimentresults
flux for
Soulsby
Van 28
Rijn
Bijker
ellipses
(wholedirection
grid); d) and
current
velocities
the
Figure (Hs)
3. MORSYS2D
between
March
andand
April
29, formulations;
2008: a) wind c)
andtidal
current
– velocity,
magnitude;
b) in
wave
vicinities
of and
the pit
at 9 April
The time
series
a) and
b) refer
to a location
insideellipses
the sandpit.
height (Hs)
sediment
flux(m/s).
for Soulsby
Van
Rijninand
Bijker
formulations;
c) tidal
(whole grid); d) current velocities in the
vicinities of the pit at 9 April (m/s). The time series in a) and b) refer to a location inside the sandpit.
The infill rate and the pit migration were also evaluated from the
CONCLUSIONS
numerical
with
bathymetric
observations.
The infillresults
rate andand
thecompared
pit migration
were
also evaluated
from the
CONCLUSIONS
Figure
5 shows
theand
bathymetric
along two transects
at the
numerical
results
comparedprofiles
with bathymetric
observations.
In the present work the hydrodynamic impact on a sand
sandpit5– shows
longitudinal
and transverse
- as along
represented
in Figure
Figure
the bathymetric
profiles
two transects
at 1.
the
extraction
at the Vale
Lobo
shoreface was
characterized
in
In the present
workdothe
hydrodynamic
impact
on a sand
The “May
2006” and
2008”
correspond
to 1.
the
sandpit
– longitudinal
and“Nov.
transverse
- ascurves
represented
in Figure
terms
of the
and do
bathymetry
modifications
induced by the
extraction
at fluxes
the Vale
Lobo shoreface
was characterized
in
bathymetric
just “Nov.
after the
extraction
2.5 yearstolater,
The “May surveys
2006” and
2008”
curvesand
correspond
the
tide,
andfluxes
the wave
velocities.
termswind
of the
and orbital
bathymetry
modifications induced by the
respectively.
The final
simulated and
from2.5March
to
bathymetric surveys
justbathymetry
after the extraction
years 28
later,
tide, wind and the wave orbital velocities.
April
29, 2008The
is denoted
as “MORSYS2D
simulated
storm”.28The
respectively.
final bathymetry
simulated
from March
to
numerical
results
reproduce
the tendencysimulated
and patterns
of The
the
April 29, 2008
is denoted
as “MORSYS2D
storm”.
observations:
the sand
pit tends
fill in theand
innerpatterns
regionsofwhile
numerical results
reproduce
thetotendency
the
erosion
takes place
at the
side to
walls.
observations:
the sand
pitpittends
fill in the inner regions while
To estimate
the area
of pit
morphodynamic
erosion
takes place
at the
side walls. influence of the pit, and
theToerosion/deposition
Figure 6influence
presentsofthe
relative
estimate the area ofpattern,
morphodynamic
the pit,
and
variation
of bathymetry computed
with MORSYS2D
days
the erosion/deposition
pattern, Figure
6 presents after
the 12
relative
of
simulation
between March
28 and
9 (negative
values
are
variation
of bathymetry
computed
withApril
MORSYS2D
after
12 days
erosion
and positive
values
are28
deposition).
of simulation
between
March
and April 9 (negative values are
The and
influence
ofarethe
sandpit is restricted to the
erosion
positivearea
values
deposition).
surroundings
of thearea
pit. There
are sandpit
two zones,
and inside
of
The influence
of the
is north
restricted
to the
the
pit, whereofthe
is and
higher,
up of
to
surroundings
themagnitude
pit. There of
arethese
two variations
zones, north
inside
6%.
Within
thethe
pit,magnitude
the relativeofvariation
increasesisashigher,
much asup6%
the pit,
where
these variations
to
in
theWithin
deepest
deposition
- while
in the south
andasnorth
6%.
thearea
pit,-the
relative area
variation
increases
as much
6%
side
the relative
variation decreases
- erosion
areas.and north
in thewalls
deepest
area - deposition
area - while
in the south
side walls the relative variation decreases - erosion areas.
Figure 4. Sediments fluxes (m3/m) for Bijker formulation
surrounding
pit.
Figure
4. the
Sediments
fluxes (m3/m) for Bijker formulation
surrounding the pit.
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
1172
Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit morphodynamics
Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit morphodynamics
Figure 5. Bottom profiles along the longitudinal (A´-B´) and transverse (A-B) transects in the dredge sandpit.
Figure 5. Bottom profiles along the longitudinal (A´-B´) and transverse (A-B) transects in the dredge sandpit.
The numerical results show a strong dependency of the
Therefore, the present results suggest that significant changes in
morphologic
evolution
of the
pit and
surrounding
area onofstorm
theTherefore,
sandpit morphology
are only
detectable
during changes
the storm
The numerical
results
show
a strong
dependency
the
the present results
suggest
that significant
in
events.
Significant
waveofheights
than 2.5m when
events
and that
long termare
morphological
changes
of this
or
morphologic
evolution
the pithigher
and surrounding
area combined
on storm
the sandpit
morphology
only detectable
during
the pit
storm
with
strong
winds produce
a mean
current
wave
orbital
flows
other
sandterm
pits in
the study area
(e.g., with
different
events.
Significant
wave heights
higher
thanand
2.5m
when
combined
eventsconceptual
and that long
morphological
changes
of this
pit or
that
capable
of produce
mobilizing
the bottom
geometries)
can sand
be investigated
through
simulation
of a
withare
strong
winds
a mean
currentsediments.
and wave orbital flows
other conceptual
pits in the study
areathe
(e.g.,
with different
currents
do not represent
an sediments.
important forcing to the
succession
storm
thatThe
aretidal
capable
of mobilizing
the bottom
geometries)ofcan
beevents.
investigated through the simulation of a
morphodynamics
of the
For mean
wave conditions
The present
results
also reveal a good performance of the
The tidal currents
do sandpit.
not represent
an important
forcingthe
to net
the
succession
of storm
events.
transport
rates are of
equally
smaller.
MORSYS2D
modelling
for theofinner
morphodynamics
the sandpit.
For mean wave conditions the net
The presentmorphodynamic
results also reveal
a goodsystem
performance
the
The magnitude
and direction
of sand fluxes within the pit and
continental
shelf.
transport
rates are equally
smaller.
MORSYS2D
morphodynamic modelling system for the inner
neighbouring
areas
determined
by the
hydrodynamic
The magnitude
and are
direction
of sand fluxes
within
the pit and
continental shelf.
conditions:
the areas
magnitude
the mean velocity
within
neighbouring
are ofdetermined
by thedecreases
hydrodynamic
REFERENCES
the
pit and shows
maximumofvalues
at thevelocity
north and
south borders
conditions:
the magnitude
the mean
decreases
within
REFERENCES
of
effectsatare
thethe
pitpit,
andwhere
showsconvergence
maximum values
thenoticed.
north and south borders
Bertin, X., Oliveira, A. and Fortunato, A.B., 2009. Simulating
decrease
the mean flow
andare
orbital
velocities within the
of The
the pit,
where of
convergence
effects
noticed.
morphodynamics
unstructured
description
and
Bertin,
X., Oliveira, on
A. and
Fortunato, grids:
A.B., 2009.
Simulating
pitThe
indicates
thatof the
capacity
decreases
decrease
the sediment
mean flowtransport
and orbital
velocities
within and
the
validation
of a modeling
system for coastal
applications.
Ocean
morphodynamics
on
unstructured
grids:
description
and
therefore
the pit
to fill over
time. capacity
The extent
to which and
the
pit indicates
thatwill
thetend
sediment
transport
decreases
Modelling,
28/1-3,
75-87.system for coastal applications. Ocean
validation of
a modeling
morphodynamics
influence
of
the
sand
pit
is
noticed
is
restricted
therefore the pit will tend to fill over time. The extent to which the
N.R., Holthuijsen,
L.R., Ris, R.C., 1996. The SWAN wave
Booij,
Modelling,
28/1-3, 75-87.
to
its surroundings.influence of the sand pit is noticed is restricted
morphodynamics
model
for shallow
water,
ICCE'96,
Orlando,
668-676.wave
N.R.,
Holthuijsen,
L.R.,
Ris, R.C.,
1996.USA,
The SWAN
Booij,
The
patterns
of
the
morphologic
modifications
of
the
sandpit
to its surroundings.
Demir,
H.,
Otay,
E.N.,
Work,
P.A.Orlando,
and Borekci,
O.S., 2004.
model
for
shallow
water,
ICCE'96,
USA,
668-676.
simulated
in oneofmonth
(with two storm
events) agree
the
The patterns
the morphologic
modifications
of thewith
sandpit
Impacts
ofOtay,
dredging
on Work,
shoreline
change.
Journal ofO.S.,
Waterway,
Demir,
H.,
E.N.,
P.A.
and
Borekci,
2004.
observations
a time
span
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This work has been supported by FCT and by the European Union
(COMPETE,
FEDER) by
in FCT
the frame
of the
the European
research project
This work hasQREN,
been supported
and by
Union
POCI/ECM/70428/2006–
SANDEX
- Sand
extraction
in the
(COMPETE, QREN, FEDER)
in the frame
of the
research project
Portuguese
continental shelf:
impacts
andextraction
morphodynamic
POCI/ECM/70428/2006–
SANDEX
- Sand
in the
evolution.
authors thank
the developing
teams
of the models
PortugueseThecontinental
shelf:
impacts and
morphodynamic
ELCIRC
making
their sourceteams
codes of
available
and
evolution.and
TheSWAN
authorsfor
thank
the developing
the models
Dr.
Sebastião
Brás Teixeira
andtheir
Dr.source
Marcos
Rosa
from and
the
ELCIRC
and SWAN
for making
codes
available
Administração
da Região
Hidrográfica
do Algarve
for
Dr. Sebastião Brás
Teixeira
and Dr. Marcos
Rosa(ARH)
from the
providing
the bathymetric
Administração
da Regiãodata.
Hidrográfica do Algarve (ARH) for
providing the bathymetric data.
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011
1174