EVICTING GROUNDHOGS & SKUNKS FROM UNDER BUILDINGS
Brought to You by the Bi-State Wildlife Hotline
Meet the Neighbors: Understanding Groundhogs & Skunks

Groundhogs & Skunks prefer to live in ‘edge habitat’ where development meets field or
forest. They particularly like neighborhoods with woods behind them, or living near a park, golf
course, agricultural field.

Groundhogs are herbivores. They ONLY eat grasses, weeds, clover, dandelions, and
unfortunately, your garden.

Skunks are carnivores. They rely on bugs, mice, moles, grub worms, bird’s eggs, and other meats to survive.

Both species have one litter per year, typically in May, with approximately 4-8 offspring. Babies are born with their
eyes closed, hairless, and underground. Only 50% of young survive until adulthood in the wild.

Groundhogs like to build burrows around man-made structures like sheds, garages, porches, sheds, steps and decks.
These burrows have one main entrance with a large amount of soil spilled around the hole, with at least one escape
hole located somewhere else. They are typically 3+ feet deep in a complex, maze-like configuration.

Groundhogs hibernate from November through late February, depending on the weather. Over 50% of all
groundhogs do not have the proper amount of body fat to survive winter and die. The lucky few come up from their
den skinny and hungry, but alive.

Skunks do not hibernate but they do ‘lay low’ during extremely cold
temperatures. They have been known to stay in their den sleeping for up to 7
days straight when it gets too cold to venture out.

Skunks are lazy. Instead of digging their own burrows, they will often choose a
groundhog den to hole up in for the winter. During this time, the groundhog is
hibernating. When spring comes, the groundhog realizes that he/she has a new,
slightly stinky roommate and usually, the groundhog moves out thereby handing
the ‘house keys’ over to the skunks.

Skunks are nocturnal and active at night. Groundhogs are diurnal and active the early morning and day time.

Groundhogs are typically not aggressive and will not approach you or your dog. They are adept climbers, and will
climb the nearest tree to evade capture by dogs and other predators. If you witness a groundhog approaching you,
acting aggressively, this is not normal. Please call the rehabber closest to you, or the Bi-State Wildlife Hotline at 1855-WILD-HELP.

Skunks are normally not aggressive either. However, a skunk does not back down when approached. Skunks will
stomp their feet at you, lift up their tail as a warning, and charge towards you. They do not intend to come close
enough to touch you, but this tactic of acting tough is nothing more than their version of ‘the best defense is a strong
offense’. Walk backwards or turn around and go the other direction, let the skunk calm down and walk away, and
everything will be fine.

Timing is everything – Eviction techniques should NOT be tried during April, May or June under ANY
circumstances! When babies are present, even if you haven’t seen them, eviction is wholly ineffective.
BI-STATE WILDLIFE HOTLINE OF MISSOURI & ILLINOIS
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EVICTING GROUNDHOGS & SKUNKS FROM UNDER BUILDINGS
Brought to You by the Bi-State Wildlife Hotline
We are happy to offer advice and assist you in learning how to coexist with groundhogs and skunks while humanely evicting them from your
property. However, eviction is NOT the same as eradication. Closing a burrow and evicting the animal within will not erase skunks and
groundhogs from their habitat (aka YOUR yard!), or your neighborhood. If the habitat exists, the animal will exist as well. We can only
offer to help you keep a healthy distance between us and them. These animals are important to our ecosystem and eradicating them would be
inhumane and environmentally catastrophic.
STEP ONE: Deterrents
Remember – Start this process in March, or September, October ONLY!
1.
Make the burrow undesirable by removing any vegetation around the burrow entrance. If there are hedges right in
front of the entrance, trim them back. If there are tall grasses around the entrance, remove them completely.
2.
If you can, leave lights on in the area to attract attention to the burrow. The skunks and groundhogs like this burrow
because it makes them feel safe and hidden. If we point a flood light or porch light directly at the burrow, they will
not like how visible they are.
3.
Skunks typically do not mind terrible smells, but they do travel their world nose-first. Any smells that will alert a
skunk or groundhog to the possibility of danger will work fairly well. Use dirty cat litter at burrow entrances. Try
allowing the dog to relieve himself in the area of the den. You can also empty your own hairbrush and place human
hair in burrow entrances and nearby to help warn critters away. These tactics will not work on their own, but they
will add to the scenario when used in combination with our other methods.
4.
Scare devices also discourage skunks and groundhogs from taking residence. Mylar silver balloons that move in the
window can be tied low to a rock or porch post. Battery operated strobe lights can be purchased for less than $10 and
work to disrupt animal’s sleep. Pinwheels are sold in dollar stores and spin with the wind, which can work to make
animals uncomfortable. Move them often and make sure there are placed where the wind will spin them.
5.
Place a battery operated radio near the entrance to the hole, tuned to talk radio of some kind. Even on low volume
this will serve to make groundhogs and skunks uncomfortable.
6.
Sprinkle red cayenne pepper (powdered from grocery store) at burrow entrances. This will not harm the animals.
However, it is extremely unpleasant to get cayenne pepper up your nose. If left in a small pile in front of dens,
groundhogs and skunks will accidentally sniff the powder. Both species walk with their nose to the ground making it
easy to trick them with this tactic. Note: Keep pets away from areas with cayenne as well. The dog isn’t any
smarter than the skunks or groundhogs and they will get it up their nose too!
7.
Another way to help make skunks and groundhogs feel uncomfortable is simple – LIVE in your yard. Pull some
weeds. Do some gardening. Play catch with the kids. Have a picnic or bonfire. Play fetch with the dog. Barbeque
some hot dogs. Being more active in your yard makes it less hospitable for wildlife. They chose this yard because they
thought no one would be around to bother them. The more you do so, the easier it will be to evict them.
Step Two: Physical Barriers
We suggest employing the deterrent methods in step one for at least one full week (7 days) before attempting to evict. Before
going through the trouble of eviction, check the activity of the burrow by stuffing the burrow entrances loosely with
newspaper. If the skunk or groundhog wants to leave, they will have to push the newspaper out making it obvious that they are
still living there. If the newspaper does not move for a full 48 hours during above freezing temperatures, the animals have
BI-STATE WILDLIFE HOTLINE OF MISSOURI & ILLINOIS
TOLL FREE 1-855-WILD-HELP / 1-855-945-3435
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EVICTING GROUNDHOGS & SKUNKS FROM UNDER BUILDINGS
Brought to You by the Bi-State Wildlife Hotline
already moved out. It is safe to skip eviction and close the burrow. If the newspaper does move, the animal still lives there and
you must evict.
1.
Begin by sealing off all entries but the main one. Seal any potential entries to ensure that the animal cannot get back
inside. See #4 “Sealing the Entry” for instructions.
2.
One Way Door
Install a one way door (aka excluder) by either making one, or purchase one at
livetrap.com. To make one, first construct a square out of any lumber scraps. It should
measure at least ½ inch bigger on all sides than the opening your skunk or groundhog
is using as a door. Then, using a hinge, attach a section of ½ inch hardware cloth (or
similar material) to your square. Cut the hardware cloth to be larger than your square
frame. This should allow the hardware cloth ‘door’ to swing one way out, but not back
in. Attach this square to the burrow in any way you can to allow critters to leave, but
not get back in.
3.
It is also possible to exclude skunks and groundhogs with a 2 inch wire mesh fence
that is at least 3 feet high and extends 1 foot below the ground surface with an
additional 6 to 12 inches at the bottom that bends outward at a 90 degree angle. This will keep skunks and
groundhogs from burrowing under the fence. Building a one-way door (Step Two) into the fence will allow any
trapped critters the ability to leave on their own accord, yet not move back in later.
4.
To keep Groundhogs out of
Gardens: Barriers are not difficult to
construct using traditional fencing.
The fencing should be at least 3 feet
tall and made of tight wire mesh, such
as chicken wire. It should be buried in
the ground a minimum of 1 foot. An
additional measure is to angle out a
section of the underground portion of
the fencing to create an L-shape, which will help deter critters from digging under the fence. Curving the top of the
fence outward will deter bold climbers. Be aware, however, that any weakness, such as a swinging gate, will be found
and breached by opportunistic critters.
5.
Or erect a floppy fence a few feet high around your garden. Use 16-gauge wire fencing. Place a foot of fencing flat on
the ground to foil their digging under the fence, then stand the wire up and fasten with stakes, but don't pull it tight.
As long as the top of the fence wobbles when touched, the groundhogs won't climb it.
As always, if you have more questions feel free to contact the Bi-State Wildlife Hotline at 1-855-WILD-HELP anytime.
BI-STATE WILDLIFE HOTLINE OF MISSOURI & ILLINOIS
TOLL FREE 1-855-WILD-HELP / 1-855-945-3435
WWW.WILDLIFEHOTLINE.COM
PAGE ~ 3 ~