International Textile and Apparel Association
(ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings
2015 ITAA Annual Conference Proceedings
Nov 11th, 12:00 AM
Hanji—The Art of the Wind
Kyungeun Lee
Iowa State University, [email protected]
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Kyungeun Lee, "Hanji—The Art of the Wind" (November 11, 2015). International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual
Conference Proceedings. Paper 107.
http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2015/design/107
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2015 Proceedings
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Hanji – The Art of the Wind
Kyung Eun Lee
Iowa State University, USA
Keywords: Hanji, Tennis, Body Mapping Design, Korean New Women
Purpose. The purpose of designing Hanji – The Art
of the Wind, was to explore an innovative design
approach incorporating a concept of sustainability and
textile science. More specifically, this study is to
verify that combination of Hanji yarn (made with
Paper Mulberry by Korean traditional paper making
techniques) and Body Mapping Approach contributes
to the (a) eco-friendly design, (b) aesthetic appeal, and
(c) technical performance of the garment.
The Design Process & Techniques. The garment is
composed of a dress with a wrap-skirt and hair band.
This garment design was inspired by the 1930’s
Korean New Women’s retro tennis dress which
emphasized femininity by having slim waist lines, and
more fitted and slender silhouettes (Suh, 2013), giving
the appearance of a matured Paper Mulberry tree. The
color scheme of this garment consisted of ivory and
orange, illustrating the color of the inner bark of the
tree trunk and the pom-pom fruits of paper mulberry.
The designer selected a fine 15 gauged Hanji yarn
blended with cotton (40% Hanji, 60% cotton) to
strengthen morphostasis and softness of the garment
(Jang et al, 2015).
Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Seiki APEX3 were used to
simulate and construct the design, silhouette, and
fitting in a three-dimensional view. The patterns were digitized into OptiTex PDS 12. Both a
manual (SYC) and computerized flat knitting machine (PROTTI, PV91X3) were used to
overcome limitations associated with the delicacy of the yarn. The knitted components were cut
and sewn to be completed as a garment.
The gossamer web texture of paper mulberry was reflected in the airy mesh texture of the textile
to enhance ventilation in in the chest, back, lateral torso, and thigh areas according to the Body
Mapping Approach (Gerrettet al, 2014).
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© 2015, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
ITAA Proceedings, #72 – www.itaaonline.org
2015 Proceedings
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Contribution of Piece. The innovative design approach of this garment contributes to the (a)
eco-friendly design (e.g., biodegradability, natural cooling), (b) aesthetic appeal (e.g., color
resolution), and (c) technical performance (e.g., ventilation) of the garment. This design shed
new light on the fashion history of Korea through the re-interpretation of Korean New Women’s
fashion style (Garment: 34”, Waist: 27”, and Hip: 37”. Approximately Fits US size 4).
References
Gerrett, N.; Ouzzahra, Y.; Coleby, S.; Hobbs, S.; Redortier, B.; Voelcker, T., & Havenith, G.
(2014). Thermal sensitivity to warmth during rest and exercise: a sex comparison. European
Journal of Applied Physiology, 114(7), 1451-1462.
Jang, Y.S.; Amna, T.; Hassan, M. S.; Kim, H.C.; Kim, J.H.; Baik, S.H., & Khil, M.S. (2015).
Nanotitania/mulberry fibers as novel textile with anti-yellowing and intrinsic antimicrobial
properties. Ceramics International, 41, 6274–6280.
Suh, J.Y. (2013). The new woman and the topography of modernity in colonial Korea,
Korean Studies, Annual, 37(1), 11-43.
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© 2015, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
ITAA Proceedings, #72 – www.itaaonline.org