Finding the Spirit of Pele
in the Hawai‘i Volcanoes
National Park
Kilauea Iki Volcano, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park
B
riefcase Excursions are quick explorations of out-of-the-ordinary areas
near cities you might travel to for business. Designed to cover the highlights,
they present interesting activities and
provide lodging and dining suggestions
that are worthy of note.
Pam Ellis and Peggy Edwards
Combine the park visit with an exploration
of quaint Volcano Village. Adjacent to the
national park, this hamlet with a population
of 2,300 has several very good restaurants,
homey lodges, and B&Bs, plus art galleries
featuring exceptional local artists.
Located in the south of the island, Hawai‘i
Volcanoes National Park is about thirty miles
BRIEFCASE
EXCURSIONS
from Hilo and seventy miles from the Kona
Coast. Interisland flights are frequent, and
several carriers fly directly to these airports from the mainTHE SPIRIT OF PELE
land. A car is necessary to fully experience this area. Plan
Even if we live in locations prone to earthquakes, most of
on a three-hour drive from the Kona side, as the road is
us forget that our Earth is a living planet in constant monarrow and there are coffee plantations and historical
tion. To visit Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island of
sights to explore along the way. From Hilo, the drive takes
Hawai‘i is to be presented face to face with this fact. This
about thirty minutes.
excursion should be experienced in the laid-back
Hawai‘ian way, savoring each moment. Plan on two to
three days to fully experience the diversity of the fascinating park and the surrounding area.
Where else can you witness an erupting volcano, hike in
an ancient forest, study the devastation of recent volcanic
eruptions, photograph unique plants in a tropical rain
forest, trek across a lava field on the floor of a crater, and
visit the mythical home of Pele, the Hawaiian goddess
of volcanoes?
60 SPRING 2008
VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
AND VOLCANO VILLAGE
First stop is the visitors’ center in Volcanoes National
Park. Here, you learn about the current volcanic activity of
the Kilauea volcano and options for hikes and activities
within the park. Rangers recommend Crater Rim Drive, a
twelve-mile circle road around the Kilauea caldera, as a
good introduction to the park and to the trailheads and
attractions within the park.
Kilauea volcano has been erupting continuously since
January 3, 1983. Current activity is from the Pu‘u ‘O‘o
vent, with lava flowing out of the side of the caldera. To
appreciate the expanse and power of this active volcano
fully and actually to see the bright red and orange flowing
lava, treat yourself to a helicopter ride. While helicopter
tours leave from both Kona and Hilo, the most cost-effective and direct are departures from Hilo. Approximately
forty-five to sixty minutes, these tours cost around $225
per person.
Lava meets the ocean
short. The road ends abruptly at the “Road Closed” sign,
where lava crossed the road in 1990, destroying a visitors’
center, campgrounds, and ultimately, all the homes in several subdivisions. (Note that the current visitors’ center is
a portable building!) A short walk from this spot to the
ocean’s edge brings you to the spectacular Holei Sea Arch,
formed by ocean waves undercutting the cliff.
Walk to steam vents
Within the park, there are five recommended trails.
These highlight unique features of the park including
steam vents throwing an eerie fog over the landscape, abstract formations formed in smelly sulfur fields, and tubes
that once carried hot lava underground. Along the trails,
look for wild anthurium, as well as several varieties of orchids. Each walk is one to two miles.
A more strenuous, but invigorating, hike is the four-mile
Kilauea Iki Trail. Winding through an ancient rain forest,
this walk takes you down to the floor of the crater, through
a lava desert, and then back through more rain forests.
Along the way you’ll have wonderful views of the crater.
(Remember, you hiked down, so you have to hike
back up!)
Accessible by car from Crater Rim Drive, scenic twentymile Chain of Craters Road crosses a number of lava fields
and then heads steeply down to the coast. At its crest, you
see miles of black lava ribbons lacing the landscape. These
lava flows originated in the multiple craters along Chain
of Craters Road. Some reached the ocean; others stopped
Holei Sea Arch
Spend time at the Jagger Museum back on Crater Rim
Drive. The exhibition hall in this science lab will give you
an understanding of the formation of the Hawai‘ian Islands, the erosion of the older ones, and the continuing
growth of the Big Island and will introduce you to Lo‘ihi
Seamount, the youngest island in the chain. This volcano
THE BAR ASSOCIATION OF SAN FRANCISCO SAN FRANCISCO ATTORNEY 61
is still a half mile below the surface of the ocean and is expected to emerge in 100,000 years.
From the Jagger Museum, you can see directly into Halama‘uma‘u crater, said to be Pele’s home. Legend has it
that Pele fled her family, seeking a place of her own. During her journey, she explored each of the Hawai‘ian Islands. She found the perfect spot in Halama‘uma‘u crater,
located within the Kilauea caldera—a volcanic crater
within a volcano. How comfortable for a fire goddess!
There are several very good
art galleries in the area. Within
the park is the Volcano Art
Center Gallery. Housed in the
original Volcano House lodge,
multiple rooms display an exquisite collection of work by
local artists. In Volcano Village, art abounds. Visitors are
welcome, but not overwhelmed, with merchandise
displayed on every corner. In
fact, two galleries worth a visit
are quite difficult to find (ask
a local). Ira Ono’s Volcano
Garden Arts gallery shows the
work of a number of different
Lava art
artists, including his own
handmade paper. Glass artist Michael Mortara displays
his beautiful pieces in a small gallery outside his studio,
2400° Fahrenheit.
To fully experience the flavor of tiny Volcano Village,
drop by the farmers market on a Sunday morning from
seven to nine a.m. Enjoy breakfast and poke around stalls
of local produce, crafts, flowers, and used books. It seems
that all of Volcano turns out for this ritual. Don’t be late.
It ends promptly at nine a.m.
LODGING AND RESTAURANTS
Historic Volcano House is the only lodging and food
concession within the park. Volcano House is dated and
expensive and during the day is overrun by tourists and
their buses. If you really must stay there, book rooms 30
through 33 with fabulous views of the Kilauea caldera.
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Patio at Lava Rock Internet Cafe
Otherwise, take a long walk around the inn, savor
the view, and head for the lodging and dining options
in Volcano Village.
Kilauea Lodge is a gem of an inn with an outstanding
restaurant open for dinner. This is the upscale spot in the
area, and the food and service reflect that. Local artwork
adds to the ambience of the beautiful dining room, as
does the roaring fire. There are several types of rooms
available, including two cottages. Each is charming.
Who would expect in Volcano to find a waiter dressed
completely in white, resplendent in his princely sash?
That’s what you’ll find at Thai Thai. Try any dish that features the chef ’s own homegrown pineapple.
Kiawe Kitchen is a small place in the heart of town featuring soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, and pastas. It has
bright colorful artwork and is a popular place for lunch
and dinner. If the roasted red pepper soup is available,
you’ll be glad you ordered it.
The Lava Rock Internet Cafe serves great omelets, but
interpret “Internet” very loosely. Access is provided on one
circa 1990 computer placed squarely in the middle of the
café. Again, they serve great omelets!
A final suggestion: pick up Hawai‘i—The Big Island Revealed by Andrew Doughty. This informative and irreverent guide to the Big Island is a gem and will enhance
your briefcase excursion to the Hawai‘i Volcanoes
National Park.
Business partners Pam Ellis and Peggy Edwards developed Briefcase Excursions after too many airport to hotel to conference
center to hotel to airport trips. They decided to break the cycle
and add a day or two of exploring for their mental and physical well being.
Photos by Pam Ellis.