464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page III
PROFESSIONAL
BAKING
Fo u r t h E d i t i o n
WAY N E G I S S L E N
Fea
t
m
fro
recipe
s
ing
ur
Le Cordon Bleu
L’Art Culinaire
Paris—1895
with a foreword by
André J. Cointreau
President, Le Cordon Bleu
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page VI
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page I
PROFESSIONAL BAKING
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page II
Photography
by
J. Gerard Smith
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page III
PROFESSIONAL
BAKING
Fo u r t h E d i t i o n
WAY N E G I S S L E N
Fea
t
m
fro
recipe
s
ing
ur
Le Cordon Bleu
L’Art Culinaire
Paris—1895
with a foreword by
André J. Cointreau
President, Le Cordon Bleu
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page IV
Le Cordon Bleu logo is a registered trademark of Le Cordon Bleu B.V.
This book is printed on acid-free paper. ∞
Copyright © 2005 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.All rights reserved
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
Photographs on pages 16, 19, 73, and 80 were taken at Turtle Bread Company, Minneapolis, Minnesota.
Design and page makeup adapted from the third edition by Lee Goldstein.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by
any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted
under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written
permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the
Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978)
750-4470, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be
addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030,
(201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, e-mail: [email protected].
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty:While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in
preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or
completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of
merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales
representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable
for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor
author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to
special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our
Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317)
572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002.
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be
available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our web site at
www.wiley.com.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Gisslen,Wayne, 1946–
Professional baking / Wayne Gisslen.—4th ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 0-471-46427-9 (College)—ISBN 0-471-46426-0: (alk. paper)
1. Baking. 2. Food presentation. I.Title.
TX763.G47 2005
641.8’15—dc22
2003065002
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page V
This
book
is
dedicated
to
Anne and Jim Smith and their family.
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page VI
464279 FM.qxd
2/26/04
9:30 AM
Page VII
Contents
Recipe Contents xiii
About Le Cordon Bleu xxiii
Foreword xxv
Preface xxvii
CHAPTER
1
BASIC PRINCIPLES 3
Baking—Historical Background 4
Formulas and Measurement 6
Mixing and Gluten Development 12
The Baking Process 13
Staling 14
CHAPTER
2
BAKING AND PASTRY EQUIPMENT 17
Large Equipment 18
Pans, Containers, and Molds 22
Hand Tools 25
Miscellaneous Tools and Equipment 26
CHAPTER
3
INGREDIENTS 29
Wheat Flour 30
Other Flours, Meals, and Starches 35
Sugars 37
Fats 40
Milk and Milk Products 43
Eggs 47
Leavening Agents 50
Jelling Agents 53
Fruits and Nuts 55
Chocolate and Cocoa 57
Salt, Spices, and Flavorings 60
VII
464279 FM.qxd
VIII
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page VIII
Contents
CHAPTER
4
UNDERSTANDING YEAST DOUGHS 65
Yeast Product Types 66
Steps in Yeast Dough Production 67
Types of Dough-Making Processes 74
Controlling Fermentation 75
Bread Faults and Their Causes 78
CHAPTER
5
UNDERSTANDING ARTISAN BREADS 81
What Is Artisan Bread? 82
Flour 83
Pre-ferments and Sourdough Starters 84
Autolyse 89
Fermentation 90
Baking 90
Artisan Bread Formulas 91
CHAPTER
6
LEAN YEAST DOUGHS 93
Introduction to Handcrafted Breads 94
Crisp-Crusted Bread Formulas 94
Soft-Crusted Bread and Rye Bread Formulas 100
Sourdough Formulas and Specialty Breads for the Artisan Baker 104
Makeup Techniques 120
CHAPTER
7
RICH YEAST DOUGHS 135
Sweet Dough and Rich Dough Formulas 136
Rolled-in Dough Formulas 142
Fillings and Toppings 146
Makeup Techniques 152
CHAPTER
8
QUICK BREADS 165
Mixing and Production Methods 166
Formulas 169
CHAPTER
9
DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS,
PANCAKES,
AND WAFFLES 183
Doughnuts 184
Fritters 189
Pancakes and Waffles 194
464279 FM.qxd
2/9/04
2:57 PM
Page IX
Contents
CHAPTER
10
BASIC SYRUPS, CREAMS,
AND SAUCES 205
Sugar Cooking 206
Basic Creams 210
Dessert Sauces 225
CHAPTER
11
PIES 233
Pie Doughs 234
Assembly and Baking 238
Fillings 242
Pie Faults and Their Causes 258
CHAPTER
12
PASTRY BASICS 261
Pâte Brisée and Short Pastries 262
Puff Pastry 265
Éclair Paste 279
Strudel and Phyllo 286
Baked Meringues 292
CHAPTER
13
TARTS AND
SPECIAL PASTRIES 299
Tarts and Tartlets 300
Special Pastries 310
CHAPTER
14
CAKE MIXING AND BAKING 323
Mixing 324
Cake Formula Balance 333
Scaling, Panning, and Baking 335
Altitude Adjustments 340
Formulas 341
CHAPTER
15
ASSEMBLING AND
DECORATING CAKES 365
Icings 366
Assembling and Icing Simple Cakes 378
Basic Decorating Techniques 381
IX
464279 FM.qxd
X
2/9/04
2:57 PM
Page X
Contents
CHAPTER
16
SPECIALTY CAKES,
GÂTEAUX,
AND TORTEN 393
Planning and Assembling Specialty Cakes 394
Procedures for Popular Cakes 401
CHAPTER
17
COOKIES 427
Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 428
Mixing Methods 429
Types and Makeup Methods 431
Panning, Baking, and Cooling 434
Petits Fours Secs 435
Formulas 437
CHAPTER
18
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS, MOUSSES,
AND SOUFFLÉS 461
Custards and Puddings 462
Bavarians and Mousses 473
Soufflés 491
CHAPTER
19
FROZEN DESSERTS 495
Churn-Frozen Desserts 496
Still-Frozen Desserts 507
CHAPTER
20
FRUIT DESSERTS 519
Selecting and Preparing Fresh Fruits 520
Fruit Desserts 525
CHAPTER
21
DESSERT PRESENTATION 545
Background and Guidelines 546
Examples of Dessert Presentations 551
464279 FM.qxd
2/9/04
2:57 PM
Page XI
Contents
CHAPTER
22
CHOCOLATE 577
Handling Chocolate 578
Molding Chocolate 582
Chocolate Decorations 584
Chocolate Truffles and Confections 589
CHAPTER
23
DECORATIVE WORK: MARZIPAN, NOUGATINE, AND
PASTILLAGE 597
Marzipan 598
Pastillage 602
Nougatine 606
CHAPTER
24
DECORATIVE WORK: SUGAR
TECHNIQUES 611
Boiling Syrups for Sugar Work 612
Spun Sugar and Caramel Decorations 613
Poured Sugar 616
Pulled Sugar and Blown Sugar 618
APPENDIX
1 LARGE-QUANTITY
MEASUREMENTS 627
APPENDIX
APPENDIX
2 METRIC CONVERSION FACTORS 659
3 DECIMAL EQUIVALENTS OF COMMON
FRACTIONS
APPENDIX
660
4 APPROXIMATE VOLUME EQUIVALENTS OF DRY FOODS
661
APPENDIX
APPENDIX
5 TEMPERATURE CALCULATIONS FOR YEAST DOUGHS 662
6 EGGS AND SAFETY 664
Glossary 665
Bibliography 673
Recipe Index 675
Subject Index 689
XI
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XII
464279 FM.qxd
2/26/04
9:30 AM
Page XIII
Recipe Contents
Recipes in blue type were
developed and tested by
Le Cordon Bleu.
CHAPTER
6
LEAN YEAST DOUGHS
Hard Rolls 95
Vienna Bread 95
Italian Bread 96
Whole Wheat Italian Bread 96
Pizza 96
French Bread (Straight Dough) 97
Whole Wheat French Bread 97
French Bread (Sponge) 97
Country-Style French Bread 97
Baguette 98
Fougasse 98
Cuban Bread 98
Ciabatta 99
White Pan Bread 100
Whole Wheat Bread 100
White Pan Bread (Sponge) 100
Soft Rolls 101
Raisin Bread 101
Cinnamon Bread 101
Egg Bread and Rolls 101
100% Whole Wheat Bread 101
Challah 102
Milk Bread (Pain au Lait) 102
Light American Rye Bread and Rolls 103
Onion Rye 103
Onion Pumpernickel (Nonsour) 103
Seven-Grain Bread 104
Basic Yeast Starter (Biga) 105
Rye Starter I 105
Rye Starter II 105
Rye Starter III 106
Basic Sourdough Starter 106
Yogurt Sour 106
Potato Sour 107
Apple Sour 107
Old-Fashioned Rye Bread 108
Pumpernickel Bread 108
Rustic Sourdough Bread 109
Fig Hazelnut Bread 109
French Rye 110
Pain de Campagne (Country-Style Bread) 110
Apple Sourdough 111
Whole Wheat, Rye, and Nut Sourdough 112
Potato Sourdough 113
Four-Grain Bread 114
English Muffins 114
Bagels 115
Olive Focaccia 115
Herb Focaccia (Sponge Method) 116
Chestnut Bread 117
Prosciutto Bread 117
Olive Bread 118
Crumpets 118
Amish-Style Soft Pretzels 119
Pita 119
CHAPTER
7 RICH YEAST DOUGHS
Sweet Roll Dough 136
Rich Sweet Dough 137
Stollen 137
Babka 137
Kugelhopf 138
Hot Cross Buns 138
Cross Paste 138
XIII
464279 FM.qxd
XIV
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XIV
Recipe Contents
Baba/Savarin Dough 139
Panettone 140
Brioche 141
Danish Pastry Dough (Croissant-Style) 143
Danish Pastry Dough (Brioche-Style) 144
Croissants 145
Danish Pastry 145
Cinnamon Sugar 146
Streusel or Crumb Topping 146
Nut Streusel 146
Clear Glaze 146
Apricot Glaze I 147
Apricot Glaze II 147
Lemon Cheese Filling 147
Date, Prune, or Apricot Filling 148
Almond Filling I (Frangipane) 148
Almond Filling II (Frangipane) 148
Almond Cream (Crème d’Amande) 149
Lemon Filling 149
Apple Compote Filling 149
Cinnamon Raisin Filling 149
Pecan Maple Filling 150
Cheese Filling 150
Hazelnut Filling 150
Poppy Seed Filling 151
Chocolate Filling 151
Honey Pan Glaze (For Caramel Rolls) 151
CHAPTER
Biscuits I
8 QUICK BREADS
169
Buttermilk Biscuits 169
Cheese Biscuits 169
Currant Biscuits 169
Herb Biscuits 169
Biscuits II 169
Plain Muffins 170
Raisin Spice Muffins 171
Blueberry Muffins 171
Whole Wheat Muffins 171
Corn Muffins 171
Corn Cheese Muffins 171
Bran Muffins 171
Crumb Coffee Cake 171
Muffins 172
Chocolate Chip Muffins 172
Blueberry Muffins 172
Raisin Spice Muffins 172
Corn Bread, Muffins, or Sticks 173
Zucchini Carrot Nut Muffins 173
Scones 174
Cranberry Drop Scones 174
Steamed Brown Bread 175
Orange Nut Bread 175
Lemon Nut Bread 175
Banana Bread 176
Date Nut Bread 176
Plum Cake 177
Almond-Poppy Seed Muffins 177
Lemon-Poppy Seed Muffins 177
Apple Spice Muffins 178
Pumpkin Muffins 178
Double Chocolate Muffins 179
Popovers 179
Gingerbread 179
Soda Bread 181
CHAPTER
9 DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS,
PANCAKES, AND WAFFLES
Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 186
Ring Doughnuts 186
Jelly-Filled Doughnuts or Bismarcks 186
Long Johns 186
Fried Cinnamon Rolls 186
Twists 186
Cake Doughnuts 187
Chocolate Cake Doughnuts 187
Rich Vanilla Spice Doughnuts 188
Doughnut Glaze 188
Honey Glaze 188
Fritter Batter I 190
French Doughnuts (Beignets Soufflés) 190
Fritter Batter II 191
Beignets de Carnival 191
Fattigman 192
Viennoise 192
Cannoli Shells 193
Sicilian Cannoli 193
Ricotta Cannoli Filling 193
Pancakes and Waffles 195
Buttermilk Pancakes and Waffles 195
Gaufres (French Waffles) 196
Crêpes 197
Chocolate Crêpes 197
Crêpes Suzette (Dining Room Preparation) 198
Crêpes Soufflé Suzette 199
Crêpe Gâteau with Plum Compote 200
Crêpes Georgette 201
Chocolate Soufflé Crêpes 202
CHAPTER
10 BASIC SYRUPS, CREAMS,
AND SAUCES
Vanilla Syrup 208
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XV
Recipe Contents
Coffee Rum Syrup 209
Coffee Syrup 209
Rum Syrup 209
Cocoa Vanilla Syrup 209
Crème Chantilly 211
Common Meringue or French Meringue 212
Chocolate Meringue 212
Swiss Meringue 213
Italian Meringue 213
Crème Anglaise 215
Chocolate Crème Anglaise 215
Coffee Crème Anglaise 215
Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière) 217
Deluxe Pastry Cream 217
Pastry Cream Mousseline 217
Chocolate Pastry Cream 217
Praline Pastry Cream 217
Coffee Pastry Cream 217
Chiboust Cream 218
Chocolate Chiboust Cream 219
Coffee Chiboust Cream 219
Praline Chiboust Cream 219
Lime or Lemon Chiboust 219
Chiboust Cream with Raspberries 220
Chiboust Cream Flavored with
Alcohol 220
Vanilla Crème Diplomat 221
Chocolate Crème Diplomat 221
Chocolate Ganache I 222
Chocolate Ganache II 223
Passion Fruit Ganache 223
Chocolate Mousse I 224
Chocolate Mousse II 224
Chocolate Sauce I 226
Chocolate Sauce II 226
Chocolate Sauce III 226
Melba Sauce 227
Raspberry Sauce 227
Caramel Sauce 227
Hot Caramel Sauce 227
Clear Caramel Sauce 227
Butterscotch Sauce 227
Caramel Cream 228
Butter Caramel 228
Sabayon I 228
Sabayon II 228
Cold Sabayon 228
Zabaglione 228
Sauce Suzette 229
Fruit Coulis 229
Blueberry Sauce 229
Dulce de Leche 230
Hard Sauce 230
Cream Sauce for Piping 231
CHAPTER
11 PIES
Flaky Pie Dough 236
Mealy Pie Dough 236
Enriched Pie Pastry 237
Graham Cracker Crust 237
Apple Pie Filling (Canned Fruit) 245
Dutch Apple Pie Filling 245
Cherry Pie Filling 245
Peach Pie Filling 245
Pineapple Pie Filling 245
Blueberry Pie Filling (Frozen Fruit) 246
Apple Pie Filling 246
Cherry Pie Filling 246
Raisin Pie Filling 246
Fresh Apple Pie Filling I 247
Fresh Apple Pie Filling II 247
Apple Ginger Pie Filling 247
Apple Pear Pie Filling 247
Apple Walnut Pie Filling 247
Rhubarb Pie Filling 247
Peach Sour Cream Pie Filling 248
Pear Sour Cream Pie Filling 248
Old-Fashioned Apple Pie Filling 249
Fresh Strawberry Pie Filling 249
Fresh Blueberry Tart Filling 249
Custard Pie Filling 250
Coconut Custard Pie Filling 250
Pecan Pie Filling 250
Maple Walnut Pie Filling 250
Pumpkin Pie Filling 251
Sweet Potato Pie Filling 251
Squash Pie Filling 251
Key Lime Pie Filling 251
Vanilla Cream Pie Filling 252
Coconut Cream Pie Filling 253
Banana Cream Pie Filling 253
Chocolate Cream Pie Filling I 253
Chocolate Cream Pie Filling II 253
Butterscotch Cream Pie Filling 253
Lemon Pie Filling 253
Strawberry Rhubarb Pie Filling 253
Strawberry Chiffon Pie Filling 255
Strawberry Cream Chiffon Pie
Filling 255
Raspberry Chiffon Pie Filling 255
Pineapple Chiffon Pie Filling 255
Chocolate Chiffon Pie Filling 256
Chocolate Cream Chiffon Pie Filling 256
Pumpkin Chiffon Pie Filling 256
Pumpkin Cream Chiffon Pie Filling 256
Lemon Chiffon Pie Filling 257
Lime Chiffon Pie Filling 257
Orange Chiffon Pie Filling 257
XV
464279 FM.qxd
XVI
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XVI
Recipe Contents
CHAPTER
12 PASTRY BASICS
Pâte Brisée 262
Pâte Sablée 263
Chocolate Sablée 263
Pâte Sucrée 263
Short Dough I 264
Almond Short Dough 264
Linzer Dough I 264
Linzer Dough II 264
Short Dough II 264
Classic Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée
Classique) 268
Ordinary Puff Pastry 269
Blitz Puff Pastry 269
Reversed Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée Inversé)
270
Pinwheels 271
Patty Shells 272
Turnovers 272
Cream Horns 273
Napoleons 273
Baked Apple Dumplings 274
Fruit Tarts 275
Fruit Strips 275
Chaussons 275
Palmiers 276
Allumettes 277
Papillons (Butterflies or Bow Ties) 277
Conversations 278
Sacristains 279
Éclair Paste or Pâte à Choux 280
Cream Puffs 281
Éclairs 281
Frozen Éclairs or Profiteroles 282
Paris-Brest 282
Choux Pastry Lattice 282
Paris-Brest 283
Pralines 284
Mini Cream Puffs 284
Mini Éclairs 285
Choux Florentines 285
Strudel Dough 286
Apple Filling for Strudel 289
Cheese Filling for Strudel 290
Cream Cheese Filling for Strudel 290
Baklava 291
Crisp Baked Meringues 292
Almond Meringues 293
Japonaise Meringues 293
Marly Sponge 294
Coconut Dacquoise 294
Hazelnut Coconut Sponge 294
Succès 295
Progrès 295
Pistachio Macaroon Sponge 295
Chocolate Heads 295
Meringue Chantilly 296
Meringue Glacée 296
Meringue Mushrooms 296
Meringue Cream Cakes 296
Vacherin 297
CHAPTER
13 TARTS AND SPECIAL
PASTRIES
Fresh Fruit Tart 302
Apple Tart 303
Plum, Apricot, Cherry, or Peach Tart 303
Apple Custard Tart 303
Pear Almond Tart 304
Fruit Tart with Pastry Cream 304
Frangipane Tart 304
Fruit Tartlets 304
Lemon Tart 305
Chocolate Tart 305
Chocolate Banana Tart 305
Tarte Tatin 306
Pear Tarte Tatin and Peach Tarte Tatin 306
Orange Brûlée Tart 307
Caramelized Apple Tart with Vanilla 307
Walnut Tart 308
Linzertorte 308
Peasant Tart 309
Gâteau St-Honoré 310
Praline Millefeuille 312
Praline Pailletine 312
Mirabelle Pithiviers 313
Passionata 314
Capucine Chocolate 316
Nougatine Parisienne 316
Chocolatines 317
Creole Délices 317
Chocolate Rum Délices 317
Financiers au Café 318
Praline Cake (Pralinette) 319
Sfogliatelle 320
Gâteau Succès 321
CHAPTER
14 CAKE MIXING AND BAKING
Chocolate Butter Cake 341
Yellow Butter Cake 342
Upside-Down Cake 342
Pan Spread 342
Walnut Cake 342
Brown Sugar Spice Cake 343
464279 FM.qxd
2/9/04
2:57 PM
Page XVII
Recipe Contents
Carrot Nut Cake 343
Banana Cake 343
Applesauce Cake 343
Old-Fashioned Pound Cake 344
Raisin Pound Cake 344
Chocolate Pound Cake 344
Marble Pound Cake 344
Sheet Cake for Petits Fours and Fancy Pastries 344
Fruit Cake 344
Fruit Mix I (Dark) 345
Fruit Mix II (Light) 345
Almond Cake for Petits Fours 346
Sacher Mix I 346
Sacher Mix II 347
White Cake 348
Yellow Cake 348
Strawberry Cake 348
Cherry Cake 348
Devil’s Food Cake 349
High-Ratio Pound Cake 349
Yellow Chiffon Cake 350
Chocolate Chiffon Cake 350
Orange Chiffon Cake 350
Sponge Roll I (Swiss Roll) 350
Chocolate Sponge Roll I (Chocolate
Swiss Roll) 350
Dobos Mix 350
Genoise 351
Chocolate Genoise 351
Sponge for Seven-Layer Cake 351
Almond Sponge I 351
Almond Sponge II 351
Sponge Roll II 351
Chocolate Sponge Roll II 351
Genoise Mousseline 351
Jelly Roll Sponge 352
Milk and Butter Sponge 352
Angel Food Cake 353
Chocolate Angel Food Cake 353
Coconut Macaroon Cupcakes 353
Chocolate Fudge Cake 353
Chocolate Surprise Cake 353
Joconde Sponge Cake (Biscuit Joconde) 354
Hazelnut Joconde Sponge Cake 354
Ribbon Sponge 355
Ladyfinger Sponge 356
Ladyfinger Cookies 356
Almond Pound Cake (Pain de Gênes) 356
Marjolaine Sponge Cake 357
Hazelnut Sponge Cake 357
Baumkuchen 358
Almond Chocolate Sponge 359
Chocolate Sponge Layers 359
XVII
Chocolate Velvet Cake (Moelleux) 360
Lemon Madeleines 361
Chocolate and Orange Madeleines 361
Marronier (Chestnut Cake Petits Fours) 362
CHAPTER
15 ASSEMBLING AND
DECORATING CAKES
Fondant 367
French Buttercream 369
Simple Buttercream 370
Simple Buttercream with Egg Yolks or
Whole Eggs 370
Decorator’s Buttercream or Rose Paste 370
Cream Cheese Icing 370
Meringue-Type Buttercream 370
Praline Buttercream 371
Vanilla Cream 371
Caramel Buttercream 371
Light Praline Cream 371
Caramel Fudge Icing 372
Quick White Fudge Icing I 373
Quick Chocolate Fudge Icing 373
Quick White Fudge Icing II 373
Cocoa Fudge Icing 374
Vanilla Fudge Icing 374
Flat Icing 374
Chocolate Glaçage or Sacher Glaze 375
Ganache Icing (Ganache à Glacer) 376
Opera Glaze 376
Cocoa Jelly 376
Fruit Glaçage 377
Coffee Marble Glaze 377
CHAPTER
16 SPECIALTY CAKES,
GÂTEAUX, AND TORTEN
Black Forest Torte 402
Mocha Torte 403
Fruit Torte 403
Dobos Torte 404
Seven-Layer Cake 404
Napoleon Gâteau 404
Sachertorte 405
Kirsch Torte 406
Orange Cream Cake 406
Abricotine 407
Strawberry Cake 407
Chocolate Ganache Torte 408
Chocolate Mousse Cake 408
Almond Gâteau 409
Bavarian Cream Torte 409
Feuille d’Automne 410
464279 FM.qxd
XVIII
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XVIII
Recipe Contents
Alhambra 411
Genoise à la Confiture Framboise (Genoise with
Raspberry Filling) 412
Brasilia 413
Russian Cake 414
Opera Cake 415
Monte Carlo 416
Jelled Spiced Apricot Compote 417
Julianna 417
Tiramisu 418
Mascarpone Filling 418
Caramelized Banana Slices for Bananier 418
Bananier 419
Almond Swiss Rolls 421
Black Forest Roll 421
Bûche de Noël (Chocolate Christmas Roll) 421
Harlequin Roll 421
Mocha Roll 421
Praline Ganache Roll 421
Strawberry Cream Roll 421
CHAPTER
17 COOKIES
Icebox Cookies 437
Butterscotch Icebox Cookies 437
Nut Icebox Cookies 437
Chocolate Icebox Cookies 437
Fancy Icebox Cookies 437
Oatmeal Raisin Cookies 438
Chocolate Chip Cookies 438
Brown Sugar Nut Cookies 438
Double Chocolate Macadamia Chunk
Cookies 439
Chocolate Chocolate Chunk Cookies 439
Sugar Cookies 440
Brown Sugar Rolled Cookies 440
Chocolate Rolled Cookies 440
Almond Slices 440
Rich Shortbread 441
Basic Short Dough for Cookies 441
Jam Tarts 441
Almond Crescents 441
Peanut Butter Cookies 442
Cinnamon Cookies 442
Chocolate Cinnamon Cookies 442
Nut Cookies 443
Speculaas 443
Diamonds 444
Butter Tea Cookies 444
Fancy Tea Cookies 444
Sandwich-Type Cookies 444
Chocolate Tea Cookies 444
Gingerbread Cookies 445
Gingersnaps 445
Spritz Cookies 445
Lemon Wafers 446
Lime Wafers 446
Raisin Spice Bars 446
Nut Squares 447
Langues de Chat 447
Coconut Macaroons (Meringue Type) 447
Almond Macaroons I 448
Amaretti 448
Pistachio Macaroons 448
Pistachio Filling for Macaroons 448
Almond Macaroons II 449
Cocoa Almond Macaroons 449
Chocolate Macaroons I 450
Coconut Macaroons (Chewy Type) 450
Chocolate Macaroons II 450
Almond Tuiles I 451
Tulipes 451
Almond Tuiles II 452
Sesame Tuiles 452
Coconut Tuiles 453
Classic Brownies 453
Rich Brownies 454
Cream Cheese Brownies 455
Florentines 456
Swiss Leckerli 456
Biscotti 457
Espresso Biscotti 458
Chocolate Pecan Biscotti 458
Batons Marechaux and Eponges 459
CHAPTER
18 CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS,
MOUSSES, AND SOUFFLÉS
Blancmange English-Style 463
Panna Cotta 464
Baked Custard 465
Crème Caramel 465
Vanilla Pots de Crème 465
Chocolate Pots de Crème 465
Crème Brûlée 466
Coffee Crème Brûlée 466
Cinnamon Crème Brûlée 466
Chocolate Crème Brûlée 466
Raspberry or Blueberry
Crème Brûlée 466
Raspberry Passion Fruit
Crème Brûlée 466
Bread and Butter Pudding 467
Brandy or Whiskey Bread Pudding 467
Cabinet Pudding 467
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XIX
Recipe Contents
Dried Cherry Bread Pudding 467
Chocolate Bread Pudding 468
Rice Pudding 469
Raisin Rice Pudding 469
Rice Condé 469
Tapioca Pudding 469
Cream Cheesecake 470
Cheesecake with Baker’s Cheese 470
French Cheesecake 470
Christmas Pudding 471
Steamed Blueberry Pudding 472
Steamed Raisin Spice Pudding 472
Steamed Chocolate Almond Pudding 472
Vanilla Bavarian Cream 475
Chocolate Bavarian Cream 475
White Chocolate Bavarian Cream 475
Coffee Bavarian Cream 475
Strawberry Bavarian Cream 475
Raspberry Bavarian Cream 475
Liqueur Bavarian Cream 475
Praline Bavarian Cream 475
Diplomat Bavarian Cream 475
Orange Bavarian Cream 475
Charlotte Russe 475
Charlotte Royale 475
Fruit Bavarian 476
Rice Impératrice 476
Cream Cheese Bavarian 477
Icebox Cheesecake 477
Orange Cheese Mousse 478
Unbaked Orange Cheesecake 478
Three-Chocolate Bavarois 479
Almond Cream 480
Passion Fruit Bavarian 480
Mousse au Cassis (Blackcurrant Mousse) 481
Passion Fruit Mousse 481
Charlotte au Cassis 482
Passion Fruit Charlotte 483
Nougatine Cream 484
Praline Cream I 484
Praline Cream II 484
Banana Mousse 485
Coconut Mousse with Tropical Fruit 485
L’Exotique 486
Chocolate Mousse III 487
Chocolate Mousse IV 488
Milk Chocolate Mousse 488
White Chocolate Mousse 488
Chocolate Mousse V (with Gelatin) 488
Chocolate Terrine 489
Chocolate Indulgence 490
Ganache I 491
Ganache II 491
XIX
Vanilla Soufflé 492
Chocolate Soufflé 492
Lemon Soufflé 492
Liqueur Soufflé 492
Coffee Soufflé 492
Praline Soufflé 492
CHAPTER
19
FROZEN DESSERTS
Vanilla Ice Cream 500
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream 501
Chocolate Ice Cream 501
Cinnamon Ice Cream 501
Coffee Ice Cream 501
Carob Ice Cream 501
Coconut Ice Cream 501
Caramel Ice Cream 501
Almond, Hazelnut, or Macadamia Praline Ice
Cream 501
Cheesecake Ice Cream 501
Strawberry Ice Cream 501
Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream 501
Mango Ice Cream 501
Peach Ice Cream 501
Gingerbread-Spice Ice Cream 501
Lemon Ice Cream 501
Lime Ice Cream 501
Sorbet 502
Lemon or Lime Sorbet 502
Orange or Tangerine Sorbet 502
Raspberry, Strawberry, Melon, or Kiwi Sorbet 502
Mango Sorbet 502
Pineapple Sorbet 502
Blueberry Sorbet 503
Banana Passion Fruit Sorbet 503
Rhubarb Sorbet 503
White Wine or Champagne Sorbet 503
Chocolate Sorbet 503
Mascarpone Sorbet 503
Honey Ice Cream 504
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream 504
Bitter Chocolate Ice Cream 504
Coconut Sorbet 505
Cider Apple Sorbet 505
Cassata Italienne 506
Basic Bombe Mixture I 508
Syrup for Bombes 508
Basic Bombe Mixture II 509
Vanilla 509
Chocolate 509
Liqueur 509
Coffee 509
464279 FM.qxd
XX
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XX
Recipe Contents
Praline 509
Fruit (Raspberry, Strawberry,
Apricot, Peach, etc.) 509
Bombe or Parfait with Fruit 509
Bombe or Parfait with Nuts, Sponge Cake, or
Other Ingredients 509
Frozen Mousse I (Meringue Base) 512
Liqueur Mousse 512
Chocolate Mousse 512
Apricot Mousse 512
Banana Mousse 512
Lemon Mousse 512
Chestnut Mousse 512
Raspberry or Strawberry Mousse 512
Frozen Mousse II (Syrup and Fruit Base) 513
Frozen Mousse III (Custard Base) 513
White Chocolate Parfait with Flambéed
Cherries 514
Cointreau Iced Soufflé 515
Poppy Seed Parfait 516
Iced Low-Fat Raspberry Parfait 516
CHAPTER
20
FRUIT DESSERTS
Poached Fruit (Fruit Compote) 526
Poached Apples, Pears, or
Pineapples 526
Pears in Wine 526
Poached Peaches 526
Peaches in Wine 526
Poached Apricots, Plums, or
Nectarines 526
Poached Cherries 526
Poached Dried Fruit 526
Tropical Fruit Compote 526
Fresh Fruit Salad 526
Fruit Salad 527
Marinated Tropical Fruits 527
Chilled Summer Fruit Soup 528
Apple Betty 528
Caramelized Pears 529
Caramelized Apples 529
Caramelized Peaches 529
Caramelized Pineapple 529
Caramelized Bananas 529
Apple Crisp 530
Peach, Cherry, or Rhubarb Crisp 530
Fruit Cobbler 530
Apple Charlotte 531
Strawberries Romanoff 532
Raspberry or Cherry Gratin 532
Gratin de Fruits Rouges
(Red Fruit Gratin) 533
Baked Apples Tatin-Style 533
Pear and Apple Gratin 534
Crème Brûlée Sophia 535
Figs in Port Wine 535
Caramelized Pear Charlotte 536
Spiced Pineapple 538
Raspberry Jam 538
Strawberry Marmalade 539
Apple Marmalade 539
Caramelized Apricots 539
Apricot Compote 540
Apricot and Almond Compote 540
Plum Compote 540
Pineapple Kumquat Compote 541
Kumquat Compote 541
Candied Orange or Lemon Zest 541
Apple Crisps 542
Applesauce 542
CHAPTER
21 DESSERT PRESENTATION
Mocha Torte 552
Panna Cotta with Caramel and Fresh Berries 552
Apple Walnut Turnover 553
Peach Napoleon 553
Strawberry Cream Cake 554
Angel Food Cake with Plum Compote and Mascarpone Sorbet 554
Old-Fashioned Pound Cake with Honey Ice Cream
and Blueberries 555
Spice Cake with Caramelized Apples 556
Lemon Tart 556
Pecan Pie with Orange 557
Apple Crisp with Caramel Sauce or Butterscotch
Sauce 557
Fattigman with Lingonberries 558
Charlotte au Cassis 558
Brownie Cherry Cheesecake Ice Cream Sandwich
559
Iced Low-Fat Raspberry Parfait with
Almond Macaroons 560
Tricolor Fruit Mousse 560
Poached Pear with Baklava and Mascarpone Cream
561
Cream Cheese Bavarian with Fruit
Compote 562
Pumpkin Profiteroles 562
Steamed Chocolate Almond Pudding with Caramel
Sauce 562
Chocolate Bread Pudding with Caramelized Bananas and Cinnamon Ice Cream 563
Bombe Bresilienne 563
Chilled Summer Fruit Soup with Strawberry Sorbet 564
Trio of Fruit Sorbets 565
Chocolate Mousse Trio 565
Raspberry Millefeuille 566
464279 FM.qxd
2/9/04
2:57 PM
Page XXI
Recipe Contents
Apple-Filled Brioche with Berries 566
French-Toasted Challah with Cheesecake Ice Cream
567
Linzer “Shortcake” with Berries 567
Savarin with Berries 568
Warm Tropical Fruit Compote with
Coconut Ice Cream 568
Apple Fritters with Mascarpone Sorbet 568
Poached Pear with Wine Sorbet 569
Poppy Seed Parfait 569
Hot and Cold Banana Split 569
Meringue Glacé with Macédoine of Fresh Fruit 570
Cornucopia of Fresh Fruit with Lemon
Ice Cream 570
French Doughnuts, Presentation 1 571
French Doughnuts, Presentation 2 571
Pear Pecan Tart, Chocolate Ganache Torte, and
Raspberry Sorbet 572
Winter Dessert Medley with Frozen
Banana and Chocolate Mousse Cake 572
Spiced Pineapple with Coconut Sorbet and Coconut
Tuile 573
Figs in Port Wine with Honey Ice Cream and
Sesame Tuile 574
Passion Fruit Charlotte 574
Caramel Medley 575
Chocolate Medley 575
CHAPTER
XXI
22 CHOCOLATE
Dark Chocolate Truffles 591
Banana Truffles 591
Orange Truffles 592
Rocher with Almonds 592
Lemon Truffles 593
Muscadines 594
CHAPTER
23
DECORATIVE WORK:
MARZIPAN, NOUGATINE,
AND PASTILLAGE
Marzipan 599
Pastillage 603
Nougatine 608
CHAPTER
24
DECORATIVE WORK: SUGAR
TECHNIQUES
Spun Sugar 616
Caramel for Cages and Other Shapes 616
Poured Sugar 618
Pulled Sugar and Blown Sugar 619
464279 FM.qxd
1/28/04
2:27 PM
Page XXII