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Meeting & Finishing Times & Places
We meet on the first day of the trip at 1:00 PM in the lobby of the Hotel Corte Altavilla in the town of
Conversano, about an hour from Bari.
You should plan to eat lunch before our meeting. After brief introductions, we will begin our biking right
from the hotel. Unless you arrived the night before, your room might not be ready, and you should have your
helmet available and be dressed in your biking clothes.
The tour will end in the morning on the last day of the tour with a final ride, showers, and then a shuttle to
the Polignano a Mare train station, which is only 30 minutes and a few Euros from central Bari.
When and Where to Arrive & Depart
All flights to Italy from North America are overnight “red eye” flights. If you are not spending much time in
Italy prior to the tour, we suggest you book a flight directly to Bari, which will require a connection (most likely
but not always in Rome). Because you need to go through immigration, pick up your luggage, and make your
way to Conversano from the airport, it will be difficult for you to fly from the United States on May 23 and meet
the group on time on May 24.
Instead, you might plan to arrive in Italy at least the day prior to the tour start. This extra day, in addition to
giving you time to reach Conversano, should also allow you to recover from the international flight. If you do
arrive early, we recommend you book a room for the night before the tour (May 23) at the Hotel Corte Altavilla
in Conversano (the same hotel we will stay in the first night of the tour).
If you will be spending extra time (for example in Rome) prior to the tour, you can also take a train to Bari.
Departing from Italy, you will again likely not have the opportunity to take a flight home on the last day of
the tour. Instead, at minimum you should plan to spend one extra night in Italy and fly out the next day, either
from Bari or Rome. If you fly out from Rome, you can take a train from Bari (four+ hours) or take the short flight
from Bari to Rome. Because the airports in both Bari and Rome are outside the city center, the train is actually a
nice option.
Pre-Tour and Post-Tour Transportation
If you choose to fly in early or depart late, you will also need to arrange transportation.
Prior to the tour: If you arrive at Bari Airport and are heading to downtown Bari, the easiest way is to take a
taxi, which should cost around E20. You don’t need a reservation. Just go outside the terminal and use one of
the official taxis.
If you wish to skip Bari and head straight to Conversano (which is what we recommend since Conversano is
a nicer town), you have a variety of options:
 The easiest, but most expensive, option is to take a taxi, which will cost you approximately E65.
 If you are staying at our Conversano hotel (Hotel Corte Altavilla) the night before the trip, you can
ask them to arrange a private transfer for you. The cost for this is approximately 70 euros for 2 – 3
people. You can email them directly to arrange this and confirm times and pricing:
[email protected]
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
A cheaper option is to book a private airport transfer in advance using a service such as
http://www.airportcitytransfer.com, or www.shuttledirect.co.uk which is reasonably priced,
especially for small groups.
 You may also try www.autoserviziamodio.com, a licensed private car & driver service based in Puglia.
 There is also a privately-operated railroad (http://www.fseonline.it), which serves Conversano from
the central Bari station. You’ll need to walk several hundred meters from the station to the hotel.
Please note this train does not run on Sundays!
After the tour: We will drop you at the Polignano a Mare train station for the half hour train ride to the Bari
central train station. You don’t need to reserve this train in advance and it costs only a couple of Euros. You can
expect to reach Bari by 12:30 PM. If you plan to fly directly from Bari back home to the US, you probably won’t
be able to reach home that day and should plan to spend another night in Bari or Rome. If you are continuing to
Rome, you can do so by train (four+ hours) or take a train or taxi to the Bari airport for the short flight to Rome.
If you need to reach the airport early or will be traveling to central Bari you can take a taxi from our final
hotel in Polignano a Mare. The hotel can arrange this for you the day before you depart. There is also a train
(www.trenitalia.com) running to central Bari that takes 30 minutes and costs only a couple Euros.
If you wish to rent a car for travels in the area after the tour, which is the best way to get around southern
Italy, you might consider using the broker www.autoeurope.com, which works with major rental companies but
usually has better prices. There are no major rental companies in either Conversano or Polignano a Mare, so
your best bet is to rent a car in Bari.
Delays In Your Travel Plans
If you happen to get delayed and can’t meet us at the appointed time, please do one of the following:
1. Call our first hotel, the Corte Altavilla: 011-39-080 495 9668 from the US, or 080 495 9668 within Italy.
2. You can also try leaving a message at our office in the United States (888-758-8687) but we are not
guaranteed to receive this promptly.
3. We will include specific guide contact information (mobile number and/or email address) in our pre-tour
email to the group, generally sent out two weeks prior to the start of the trip.
We will be spending the first day and night in Conversano, so you’ll have time to catch up with the group if
you are delayed, although you may miss some of the activities.
Possible Pre-Tour and Post-Tour Travels
If you have the time, it is certainly worth extending your tour in southern Italy. Here are a few ideas for you
to consider:
Bari is the capital of the province of Puglia and is a main economic center for southern Italy: a university
town with an important port. That said, it probably is not worth using it for more than a quick stopover before
or after the tour. For lodging, we can recommend the Hotel Boston (www.bostonbari.it) at Via Niccolò Piccinni,
a large hotel that is perfectly located in central Bari. It is three-stars, nice but not luxurious. It is next to the old
city, the castle, and the cathedral but 1.1 kilometers from the central train station, so you’ll either need to walk
or take a taxi if you arrive by train. You can reserve your room directly on the hotel’s website.
Rome is a fantastic city that should not be missed if you have never been there. It is filled with cultural,
historical, and architectural sights. While the city is huge and at first daunting, the central district is quite
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manageable on foot with a good map. If you only have a day or two extra, a good option would be to arrange a
layover in Rome. You can get from the airport to the center of Rome via bus or train (Leonardo Express to
Stazione Termini). We recommend you reserve a hotel in advance, and choose a hotel in the city center.
The Gargano Peninsula and Gargano National Park is located a few hours north of Bari. Jutting out into the
Adriatic Sea, the peninsula is rocky, forested, and beautiful. It is a well-known tourist area and so there are
plenty of hotels and restaurants. You’ll need a car to see the area.
We don’t go south of Ostuni on our tour, so heading to the southern tip of Puglia is an interesting option.
Check it out on a map and you’ll see why this area is called the heel of the boot. It is only a three-hour drive
from Bari to the southernmost point.
For a longer extension, we love the idea of visiting Sicily. You’ll want several days to explore the island. You
can fly from Bari (via a connection in Rome) to one of the major airports (such as Palermo or Catania) in Sicily.
Alternatively, you can drive to Sicily: it is six hours from Bari to Sicily by car and you can rent a car in Bari at the
end of the tour, drive to and spend time in Sicily, and then fly out of Sicily.
Purchasing International Airline Tickets
With a little searching, you should be able to find an affordable ticket to Italy. Go to the transportation page
of our website for suggestions on surfing the web to buy plane tickets. When booking an international airline
ticket, please keep in mind these things below:
 Cheaper, advance-booking tickets generally have restrictions on changes and cancellations.
 Changing your travel date a bit might result in a cheaper ticket price.
 A travel agent may know about special fares.
 We suggest first checking booking engines such as Travelocity, Kayak or Orbitz and then comparing
those fares to prices on the actual airlines’ websites. You can also use a quick-search website such
as Google Flights, which will compare flights and then link you directly to an airline site to book the
one you want.
 Try flying from and to a major gateway city such as New York, Minneapolis, Chicago, Atlanta, or Los
Angeles from the US.
 You might be able to find a cheaper flight by flying to a major European hub such as Rome, London,
Frankfurt, Paris or Amsterdam, and then using a discount European airline to get to Rome or Bari. In
this case, you will probably need to purchase two roundtrip tickets: one to the hub city and a second
on the European airline to Bari. Note this involves changing planes and probably rechecking into
your second flight.
Where We Stay
Following are the hotels in which we stay during the trip:
Nights
Hotel
Town
1
Hotel Corte Altavilla
Conversano
2
Hotel il Palmento
Locorotondo
3&4
Masseria San Martino
Pezze di Greco
5
B&B Malù
Polignano a Mare
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We stay in four separate hotels in four towns during the six-day tour. Our first hotel is the Corte Altavilla in
the town of Conversano. Conversano is a town of 26,000 inhabitants and is an hour from Bari. The old part of
town has winding, narrow streets and our hotel is perfectly situated near the central square.
Our second night we stay in il Palmento, a four-star hotel in the countryside near the towns of Locorotondo
and Alberobello. This area of Puglia is famous for its trulli dwellings, ancient conical structures built by the locals
and still used today. Our hotel consists of 30 trulli structures, some original and some modern, so you will
experience this local tradition. Check out the website!
Our third and fourth nights we stay at the Masseria San Martino, located in the countryside outside the
small town of Pezze di Greco. Masserias are old farmhouses, which served as almost isolated fortresses in
ancient days, many of which are converted to tourist lodgings. While not luxurious, our masseria is small and
cozy and we usually reserve almost every room for our groups. It is surrounded by giant, old olive trees and
you’ll love relaxing by the pool.
Our final night is spent at the B&B Malù, a charming and friendly little place that overlooks the Adriatic Sea.
You’ll love eating breakfast on their seaside terrace! The hotel is in the small seaside town of Polignano a Mare,
which has only 8,000 residents.
Miscellaneous Travel Information
Jet Lag: You will be tired upon arriving in Italy if you fly from North America. This is not jet lag but just a lack
of sleep due to the overnight flight! Jet lag usually happens up to three days later and is the inability to sleep at
night or intense drowsiness during the day from being in a different time zone. The best cure for jetlag is to
immediately get into your new time schedule, staying awake until your normal bedtime on the day of your
arrival. We never take a catnap upon arriving in Europe but, if you must, you should limit it to no more than an
hour or so.
Accommodations: There are thousands of accommodation options in Italy. If you are traveling in big cities
such as Rome or Florence, we recommend you book your hotel in advance. The best option is to book online at
websites, such as www.orbitz.com, www.booking.com, or www.hotels.com, which provide much better rates
than you will get by just walking in. The website of the local tourist office is also an excellent place to book a
hotel. If you are traveling in small towns, it is often possible to simply find accommodation by going to the local
tourist office or just stopping at signs you see along the way.
Getting Around: Our preference for travel in Italy is to stick to trains and busses when visiting large cities and
to rent a car when visiting small towns. If you plan to limit your travel before and after the tour to large cities
such as Rome it is simply much easier to get into the city center by bus or train than it is trying to find your way
by car. For train schedules see www.trenitalia.com. However, if you decide to visit rural areas of Italy, you
should consider renting a car. Many small towns are not easily reached by public transportation. While it can
be intimidating at first to drive in Italy, it is certainly a manageable process.
More Information: There are many, many guidebooks on Italy and a few on Puglia alone and it is very useful
to purchase one before you leave home.
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Passport, Visa, Money, Telephones, Electricity and Time Zone
You must have a passport to travel to Italy. If you don’t already have one, you should call your local
passport agency today (in the U.S. check the government blue pages) as normal processing takes 4-8 weeks
(you can expedite this with extra costs). No visa is required for American, Canadian, or European citizens.
Italy’s currency, along with most of Europe, is the Euro. For current conversion rates, see
www.xe.com/ucc/. The easiest way to get money in Italy and in Europe in general is by using a standard ATM
bank card – no wait, small fees, and flexible amounts. Your card should work if it has a Cirrus or Visa sticker
and, if it doesn’t, your credit card will likely work in the same ATM (although you may have to pay interest and a
cash advance fee). Just in case, you should bring a small amount of cash (or a card that will allow you to
procure cash advances) as a backup. Not all places will accept credit cards for payment. Be sure to contact
your banks and card companies ahead of time to let them know you will be traveling in Italy or they may put a
lock on your card when you attempt to use it there. Also note that Italy has a higher risk of card number theft
than most countries and you should be very careful when using credit cards and ATMs.
Traditionally, in Italy a tip is included in the price of restaurant meals. However, in tourist areas a 10% tip is
now sometimes expected. Oftentimes, it is impossible to add a tip to a meal charged on a credit card unless
you specify this in advance.
The cheapest way to use the telephone while in Italy is to purchase a local calling card. Cards can be
purchased in local post offices and newsstand kiosks. Now, many travelers just enable their cell phones to work
overseas. Talk to your mobile provider to see what your options are.
The United States and Canada use 110-volt electricity. Most countries outside North America (including
Italy) use 220-volt electricity. If you plan to bring any electronics with you, you may need to use a “converter”
or a “transformer” to change the 220-volt electricity into 110-volt electricity in order to use a 110-volt appliance
(unless your appliance is dual voltage). If your appliance is dual voltage, you can switch it to work on 220 volts,
without a transformer or converter. The electrical outlets outside the United States and Canada are usually
different from those in North America. The plug on the appliance you use in the U.S. and Canada won't fit into
the outlet in most foreign countries. Therefore, you will need a plug adapter in order to plug in your appliance
into the foreign outlets. See http://www.travelproducts.com/electricity_guide.htm for more details.
Italy is seven hours ahead of U.S. Central Standard Time.
The Weather
Historical weather averages for Bari, where we meet, show an average daily temps in the 60s and low 70s
(degrees Fahrenheit) during May, perfect for cycling. The overall low averages 55 degrees. Therefore, you can
expect warm days plus pleasant but slightly cool evenings. Rain is a definite possibility but May in the area
historically has only 5 days of rain and only 1.4 inches. Chances are excellent we will have sunshine most days.
Heat waves are not unheard of in the area this early in the season. Be prepared for anything!
Biking in Puglia
Italy is famous for its bicycling. Puglia is the new hotspot for both Italians and foreigners. Despite these two
realities, we will see few other bicycle tourists on the roads. The fascinating (and consternating, for a tour
operator!) thing about Puglia is there are no detailed maps of the area. That means almost all visitors to the
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area stay on the main roads. However, there is an entire network of small roads used only by locals to connect
each village to each other. It is these small roads we use for most of our biking. We bicycle in what is really only
a small section of Puglia, south of Bari and north of Ostuni. This area of the country has a flat coastal plain that
rises up to an inland plateau. We start in the town of Conversano, which is up on the plateau, allowing us to
avoid an initial large climb. We then spend several days biking on the plateau before heading downhill to the
coastal plain and enjoying seaside biking.
We have two or three route options each day: short, medium, and long. We do not cycle together in one
large group each day. Instead, you will have detailed route directions for each day of the tour and you are free
to cycle as slowly or quickly as you wish. Each morning we will have a Route Talk and the group normally breaks
into smaller groups based on biking ability and interests.
Puglia is a rocky area and much of the region we pass is composed of beautiful olive groves. Farmers have
cleared the fields and lined the narrow roadways with mesmerizing rock walls. You’ll love the biking in Puglia.
Bicycles
The bicycles we have for rent are excellent and comfortable hybrid-style bikes are suitable for both paved
and gravel roads. They have front bag or rear racks and water bottle cages (plan to bring a standard size water
bottle or two with you) but do not have odometers. Note you will be responsible for any damage (that is not
normal wear and tear) or loss to the bike throughout the week. We will provide you with a bike lock.
If you decide to rent your bicycle from us, you will need to provide us with the following on your electronic
information form so we can prepare a bike specifically for your needs:
o Your Height: We will calculate the proper bike frame size from this.
o Handlebars preference: Dropdown (the curled road bike style) or upright (more similar to a
mountain bike) style. We strongly recommend upright handlebars if you do not regularly bicycle
with dropdown style handlebars.
o Pedals preference: Standard pedals, pedals with a “cage” (or basket around the foot), SPD pedals,
or no pedals (meaning you will bring your own pedals and shoes). Cages are more efficient in
pedaling but can be daunting for someone who is not familiar with them. We strongly recommend
against shoes with clips that jut out and inhibit walking, since you will have the opportunity to
sightsee on foot quite a bit on the daily routes.
o Other options:
 Bike upgrade: if you are accustomed to a road bike and would like to upgrade to a standard road
bike or a carbon-frame road bike, please let us know and we can quote you a price (generally
this is an extra 5 – 15 euros per day).
 Bike size: If you have a bike at home that fits you well, feel free to share the details about your
bike including frame size, style and geometric measurements with us and we will do our best to
match it.
 You may also bring your own bicycle seat if you wish and we can install it on your bike.
You are free to bring your own bike but we do not recommend it unless you plan to do significant biking
before or after the tour. Otherwise, it is simply not worth the hassle. If you do bring your own bike, it should be
suitable for both paved and unpaved roads.
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Please bring your own bicycle helmet; helmets are required. We highly recommend you bring one or more
pairs of bicycle shorts with you on the tour, as well as water bottles (or a hydration pack). Other optional items
are a removable gel seat cover (usually one size fits all seats), biking gloves, and a helmet mirror.
Puglia’s Food & Wine
One of the greatest aspects of traveling in Italy is enjoying the incredible meals and wines. While pastas
and pizzas are indeed ubiquitous, meat and fish dishes are also readily available. Every meal is washed down
with a delicious local wine. You will not go hungry on this vacation!
Puglia is well-known for its culinary joys, which are centered on traditional preparation and foods produced
in the area. In fact, in our opinion it is one of the best places in Italy for food. Puglia is highly agricultural
(producing a good percentage of its wine and nearly half of the country’s olive oil) and its cuisine reflects the
use of these local products: durum wheat (used to prepare orecchiette, tiny ear-shaped pasta shells that are still
produced by hand and typically served with a meat ragu, mushrooms, turnip tops, or broccoli), tomatoes,
artichokes, fava beans, rocket (arugula), courgettes (zucchini), beans, fennel, peppers, onions, beef and lamb.
Puglia's rocky landscape is ideal for sheep-farming and lamb dishes are common. The presence of so many
sheep results in excellent cheeses like pecorino and ricotta. Puglia has a lengthy coastline and so seafood such
as mussels, anchovies and other fish are used for many dishes. Many desserts here are almond based and are
often combined with honey or vin cotto di fichi (a paste made of figs).
Because this is a food tour (in addition to biking), we have built in stops along the way to taste the many
delicacies of the region (olive oil, cheese, meat and agricultural products) where they are produced. You’ll also
be able to help prepare a fabulous dinner with the help and guidance of three Italian brothers who put on a
cooking class for us.
Breakfasts in Italy are generally quick and light, involving a cappuccino and a pastry. However, we will
always have sit-down breakfasts to fuel us for the day ahead. These are usually cold buffets with meats,
cheeses, breads, fruits, and cereals.
You are on your own for lunches, since we will not generally be together in one big group during the day.
You might choose to eat lightly and just snack from our van supplies, shop in a local market and have an
impromptu picnic, or sit down to a light meal in a restaurant. Pizzerias, which almost always also feature pasta
dishes, are quick and excellent lunch stops.
We will have a sit-down dinner each evening and try to expose you to a range of cuisines and styles. You will
generally have two or three main course choices and we can generally accommodate special dietary needs. The
meals will include many local ingredients such as fruits, vegetables, and olives. One meal we eat is homecooked by the Italian owner of our masseria agricultural hotel.
Italian wine is excellent and reasonably priced. Most Italians you will meet, in fact, cannot conceive why
some people think Californian, Australian, or even French wines are even compared with Italian wines! Puglia
actually produces more wine than any other region in Italy and you will have the opportunity to sample
different varieties. While it is possible to order special wines in restaurants, many Italians simply order “vino
della casa” or the house wine.
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The Italian People
The population of Italy is 58 million with an annual growth rate of 0.05%, or almost flat. The slight positive
growth rate, however, is due to net positive immigration and hides what is a major concern with Italian
demographics. Italy has one of the lowest net birth rates in the world and some experts predict that without
increased immigration the population of Italy will eventually decline to 45 million people!
Any ideas you might have of large Catholic families and women relegated to the home are out of date.
Instead, the potential population decline is due in large part to the tendency of women to work, marry later,
and have fewer kids. Many experts fear this will have a severe negative economic impact due to increased
pension and health care costs for the elderly. On the other hand, perhaps Italy is ahead on the evolutionary
curve and this decline in net birth rates will be natural and desirable after a difficult period of transition.
Italians often think of themselves as more allied with their local city or province than the country itself. In
your conversations with locals, try to find out if they are more proud of being a Tuscan (or Umbrian) or an
Italian. One less-than-positive result of this regional nationalism is the division between northern and southern
Italy, with prosperous northern Italians often disgruntled over having to essentially subsidize the south.
Italians tend to be happy, family-oriented, and loyal. They are also hardworking and serious when the need
arises. The stereotype of an excited Italian crazily waving his hands is more stereotype than truth.
The Vatican, center of the Catholic religion, is an independent state within the middle of Italy. However, as
with many Europeans, religion is becoming less a part of the daily lives of Italians. Church attendance has
dropped from 70% after World War II to about 25% today, even while some 80% of Italians consider themselves
Catholic. Catholicism still plays an important role in holidays and formal occasions but, in everyday life, Italians
are simply doing their own thing.
Recommended Pre-Trip Readings
There are dozens of guidebooks to Italy and we suggest you get one for background reading. For lighter
background readings try the following books and movies (all available on Amazon.com):

Pan’ E Pomodor by Ian McEwan
This is another in the line of “couple moves to Italy, purchases old house, renovates it, and learns about
the local culture” in the vein of Under the Tuscan Sun. This story is about a British couple buying a house
in Puglia.

Head Over Heel: Seduced by a Southern Italian by Chris Harrison
Into “Eat, Pray, Love” more than you are “Under the Tuscan Sun”? Try this story about an Australian
bloke who travels to Puglia and falls in love with a local girl.

Casa Rossa by Francesca Marciano
If your style is more novel than true story, try this one about a Pugliese girl who moves to Rome and
eventually New York. It gets good reviews but might be more oriented towards women than men.

Puglia: A Culinary Memoir by Maria Pignatelli Firrante et al
An in-depth look into Pugliese cooking, including its background, key characters, and main recipes.
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About Puglia Note: The following information comes from the website www.trullipuglia.com.
Like much of Italy, Puglia is a land of contradictions. It is, at the same time, a complex and a simple land,
where tradition and history mix, oddly yet somehow comfortably, with technology and the modern world. In
this article, we hope to offer you a glimpse of what makes up ‘Pugliese’ culture; it’s people and history, and to
provide you with a number of additional links and resources for you to explore these themes further, should
you wish.
Sometimes known as Apulia, Puglia is also known as the ‘Heel of Italy'. It lies in the heart of the
Mediterranean, even though it is in fact flanked by the Adriatic Sea along it’s length and touches the Ionian Sea
at it’s tip. Generally speaking, it is relatively flat, although there are areas of gently rolling hills such as those
within the famous Valle D’Itrea. At it’s heart, however, it is a land of lush Olive trees and vineyards, of rich
brown and red soils, mild wet winters and hot dry summers, and of friendly, open people, with ready smiles.
Puglia’s history, belying the apparent simple nature of the land, is a complex weave of colonisation, invasion
and a continual struggle for independence. Strategically located, and blessed with a rich, fertile soil, Puglia has
been a coveted possession for many a civilisation. Believed to have been settled by the Greeks as early as the
8th Century BC, the Romans, Turks, Saracens and Spanish, among others, have also held claim to parts of Puglia
at one time or another through its history.
Sometimes referred to as the ‘breadbasket’ of Italy, Puglia historically produced much of Italy’s pasta, and
today it still produces over half of its olive oil. Increasingly, it is also becoming known for its rich fruity red wines,
particularly those from its Salento region. As you would expect, food plays an important part in Pugliese culture
and, its main dishes are distinguished by an explosion of flavour in its meat and pasta dishes, often through the
use of freshly picked herbs and wild vegetables, invariably obtained from individual private gardens. Almost
everyone seems to have their own small vineyard and, as well as the inevitable olive trees, almond and fig trees
are also often found in private gardens or even growing wild at the roadside.
In keeping with Mediterranean culture, the people of Puglia love to congregate during the cool evenings
and it is not unusual to walk along the streets and find people milling on the streets, catching up on local gossip.
Lunch is something to be enjoyed and, perhaps because of the hot midday summer sun, it is a long drawn out
affair. It normally lasts from between 1pm and 4:30pm, depending on the town, and most businesses and
shops, except for restaurants of course, are actually closed during this period, so you need to take this into
account when planning your day.
The architecture of Puglia is at once simple, yet stunning. From a distance, many of the smaller towns
appear as beautiful ‘walled’ villages, many sitting atop hills, with church spires and towers often rising high
above the rooftops. Close up, it becomes apparent that the town ‘walls’ consist of near solid rows of tall,
terraced houses which not only define the town perimeter, but were also designed to allow the town to be
more easily defended against the coastal pirates and bandits of old. Many of the houses are painted white to
reflect the hot summer sun and indeed Ostuni, located between Bari and Brindisi, is also known as the ‘White
City’.
Within the old quarters of these towns, a plethora of balconies, doorways and arches all provide insights
into the different civilisations that have influenced their architecture. Roman, Greco and Messapian features
are often seen side by side and Martina Franca features a wonderful Gothic feel to it. The maze of tiny
whitewashed alleys that make up Cisternino’s Old Town conceal a surprisingly spacious clock tower square
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inside, and it is not hard to see why it has been named one of the ‘Borghi piu Belli d’Italia’ - in other words one
of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Puglia is the home of the Trulli, simple yet beautiful dwellings with conical roofs made entirely of local
limestone. Built by peasant farmers, with some dating back to the 15th century, they are today highly sought
after - despite the need to make heavy investments in their restoration - by both local residents, and well to do
outsiders. Whilst originally a practical way for the poor farmer to build a home, today’s Trulli have taken on a
magical character, like tiny personal castles, with a fairy tale quality about them. For more about Trulli please
see our article Trulli - how did they come about?
For the landed gentry, Masserie, or farm-houses, were the residence of choice and the owner of a Masseria
would often own many hectares of land (one hectare is approximately two and half acres), planted with olive
trees and vineyards. Today, many Masserie continue to grow olives and grapes, employing traditional methods
dating back hundreds and even thousands of years, although they frequently supplement their income by
taking advantage of the rise of tourism, doubling up as B&Bs, or even luxury hotels. Thus, they become part of
the Italian Agriturismo phenomenon: working farms which also offer restaurant and accommodation facilities.
Perhaps because of the successive wave of conquerors, and despite its strategic location and ports, Puglia,
like much of southern Italy, has in the past been considered a poor relation to the more northerly regions such
as Tuscany. Its cuisine, with its use of pasta without eggs, and freshly picked wild herbs and vegetables, the now
delightful Trulli, and even the distinctive style of furniture, known as Arte Povera, all originate from the need to
make do with little material wealth.
Today however, the picture is very different and the enterprising nature of Italians comes out strongly here.
Agriculture and tourism are two of the more obvious contributors to the local economy, however Puglia also
boasts many small and medium sized enterprises, specialising in foods, marble and limestone quarrying,
textiles, shoes and engineering. Grottaglie, in the south, is especially famous for its ceramics and the many
trendy stores and boutiques tucked away inside most towns and villages attest to the growing wealth of the
region.
In fact, many regard Puglia as a region which is beginning to flourish, as improved transport links, its
favourable climate, the beauty and unspoilt nature of its countryside and beaches, and its warm, inviting people
make it a favourite destination for many discerning holiday makers.
Early Italian History & The Roman Empire
Humans occupied Italy as long as 70,000 years ago and were establishing settlements up to 6000 years ago.
However, it is the Etruscan period that symbolizes Italy’s first great era and you will be able to see Etruscan
remains on the tour. Scientists believe the Etruscans migrated to what is now Italy around 1000 BC, with the
Etruscan culture peaking in the 7th and 6th centuries BC. The Etruscan people created settlements, farmed, and
traded their wares throughout the Mediterranean lands. The Etruscan dominance over Italy began to decline in
the 4th and 5th centuries BC as they lost their trade routes to Greece, northern lands to invading Gauls (from
what is now France), and southern lands to the growing Roman civilization. The “end” of the Etruscan period
came as late as 90 BC, when all Etruscans were granted Roman citizenship.
The city of Rome uses 753 BC as its founding date, making it over 2,750 years old! Until 509 BC, native
Romans, migrating Greeks, and Etruscans influenced the Roman area. In 509 BC, however, the Roman Republic
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Puglia Biking Adventure :: May 24 - 29, 2016
was born after the locals overthrew the Etruscan leader upon his brutish rape of a local woman. This was the
start of great Rome!
One of the greatest contributions of the Roman era was the advancement in governmental systems and this
started with the Roman Republic. A constitution was created that took the best parts of other known forms of
government and included direct election by the people, limited terms, and individual rights of the people. The
US constitution was modeled after the constitution of the Roman Republic.
The Roman Republic consolidated its hold in Italy and over neighboring areas in the next 500 years. The
most traumatic times of this period were the three Punic Wars against Carthage in North Africa. During the
Second Punic War (218-202 BC) Hannibal crossed the Alps with his war elephants to deliver punishing blows to
the Roman army before losing a final battle defending Carthage.
A major change occurred in Rome as the Roman Republic morphed into the Roman Empire. This is a distinct
difference, as the Republic was ruled by elected senators while the Empire was eventually ruled by Emperors.
This era was highlighted by some of the most famous people in history, including Julius Caesar, Marc Anthony,
Cleopatra, and Caesar’s son Octavian (eventually known as Caesar Augustus). For more on this intriguing time
period look up any number of good books or movies.
This also marked the time of great expansion of the Roman Empire. The peak of the Roman Empire’s power
probably occurred during the reign of Emperor Hadrian (117-138 AD), who built Hadrian’s Wall in northern
England to protect against the northern hordes. The empire declined during the next 200 years. Sometime
prior to 300 AD, the Empire was split into Western and Eastern halves. As the Empire continued to decline, the
Eastern half morphed into the Byzantine Empire with its capital of Constantinople (modern Istanbul), which
survived until 1453 AD. Under attack from various ethnic tribes, the Western Roman Empire’s fall is attributed
to the date 476 AD, when an ethnic Germanic leader deposed the final Emperor.
The Rise of Catholicism
The first Emperor to convert to Christianity was Constantine in 313 AD; in other words, almost 300 years
passed from the death of Jesus to the rise of Christianity at the highest levels of the Empire. After the fall of the
Western Roman Empire, Pope Leo I (440-461 AD), often known as the father of Catholicism, consolidated the
churches hold on power. The Church would be involved in the politics of Italy for the next almost 1500 years.
This involvement was formalized in 800 AD, when Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne as emperor creating
what became known as the Holy Roman Empire. Franks, Germans, and Normans from modern day Germany
and France battled for authority during the next 600 hundred years, while popes battled to maintain their
dominance and power, all interspersed with the Crusades against the Arab Muslims. These Middle Ages did not
do much for the advancement of Rome and Italy.
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The Renaissance through the Enlightenment
Starting in the 12th century, the city-state became a powerful new force in Italy. Northern cities, becoming
commercially powerful due to international trading, become somewhat independent. Included among these
cities were Venice, Milano, Bologna, and Firenze (Florence). During this era, artisan guilds became established
and the culture of Italy flourished.
The Renaissance flourished in the early 1500s, with painters such as Raphael and sculptors such as
Michelangelo creating great works of art. Perhaps the center of this movement was Florence where the Medici
family encouraged political, economic, and artistic growth. Included in this change was a movement for more
individual rights and less control by self-selected rulers. Unfortunately, the effectiveness of the Renaissance
depended on the local city-state ruler and relations with both the current Pope and Holy Roman Emperor.
Equally as unfortunately, the Renaissance was not to last too long. In response to Martin Luther’s
“reformation” of the Catholic Church, the Counter-Reformation period ensued. This was the time period of the
Inquisition, book banning, and the persecution of intellectuals such as Galileo Galilei.
Luckily, the tide turned again and the Counter-Reformation was replaced by the Enlightenment period of
the 1700s. Trade liberalization, political reform, and the resurgence of art took place throughout Europe.
Modern History
The period of modern Italy starts around 1800 when Napoleon conquered the area and created, for the first
time, a political entity called Italy. Upon Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo in 1815, the Congress of Vienna sadly
handed rule of Italy back to its former scattered leaders. The people were not ready for continued feudalism,
and groups of revolutionaries started to protest. (Keep in mind this is well after the US Revolutionary War and
the subsequent French Revolution.) No succinct revolution happened in Italy, perhaps because no one
monarch controlled the entire country. After much conflict and effort, the Kingdom of Italy was declared in
1861. Nine years later the Italians threw out the remaining foreign meddlers (the French and Austrians) and
wrested political control from the Catholic Church.
Unfortunately, this period was not to last long either. World War I broke out in 1914 and, although Italy
stayed mostly neutral, divisions occurred within Italy as factions supported both sides of the war. Mussolini and
the Fascist Party came to power in 1924 and proceeded to ban opposition political parties, muzzle the press,
and remove the right to vote from 2/3 of the population. In step with this decline in political rights was an
increase in militarism, with campaigns against Greece, Libya, and Abyssinia (present day Ethiopia). Due to
increasing isolation from the League of Nations, Mussolini formed the Axis agreement with Hitler and Germany
in 1941.
Italy fought ineffectively on the German side in World War II for two years before being invaded by the
American army in July 1943. Mussolini was overthrown, the Germans invaded northern Italy, and the
Americans had a fight on their hands as they fought a two-year battle to liberate the north of Italy from the
Germans.
Since World War II, Italy has been ruled by a variety of governments and wracked by dissension and violence
from the left (Red Brigade terrorists) to the right (fascists). Italy is currently led by Prime Minister Mario Monti,
who was appointed on November 16, 2011 to replace Silvio Berlusconi, one of Italy’s richest men and the
subject of repeated scandal allegations who finally succumbed to the Euro crisis and resigned his office.
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