8 f t - 5 - Si d e d Sh e d
A s s e m b l y In s t r u c t i o n s
READY TO ASSEMBLE KITS
Kenex Manufacturing Ltd
27 Regan Road
Brampton,ON L7A 1B2
www.gardendec.com
Sh i n g l e s Re q u i re d :
Re q u i re d To o l s :
Item #:
1
0
7
Screwgun or Variable Speed Drill
Screwdriver Bit (Robertson # 2)
Hammer
Handsaw
Tape Measure
Step Ladder
Level
4 Bundles of asphalt shingles or
5 Bundles of cedar shingles
Note: Assistance may be required to position and secure some elements. Make sure
that the ground is level to start.
Pa r t s L i s t o n Ne x t Pa g e
The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your
shed. Extensive diagrams and complete explanation are offered to make it
simple (and fun) for those who have little experience with a project of this
nature. Should you have any questions (or suggestions), please don’t hesitate to
call our toll-free customer service line @ 1-800-606-8911 or 905-840-9469 in the GTA.
Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the contents of
this package against the part list prior to assembly. Any material
defects or shortages must be reported before you begin assembly,
otherwise part replacement charges will apply to all requests.
96"
96"
48"
48"
68"
w w w. g a rd e n d e c . c o m
Item 107
Size
Qty
Date:
8 ft
Part
STRAPS
CHECK Qty
1
Part
BACK WALL PANEL
1
ROOF PANEL - 48 X 80
4
WALL PLATES - 72"
1
ROOF PANEL - 48" X 80"
2
WALL PLATES - 19"
1
WINDOW PANEL
4
BEVEL STUDS - 72"
1
WINDOW
2
FRONT WALL PLATES - 67 7/8"
4
BACK FASCIA
2
WALL PLATES - 48"
2
SIDE FASCIA
2
WALL PLATES - 45 1/2"
2
FRONT FASCIA
20
STUDS - 72"
6
BACK CORNERS
1
BACK WALL PANEL
4
FRONT CORNERS
STRAPS
2
ROOF PANELS - 72"
1
BACK WALL PANEL
2
ROOF PANELS - 60"
3
HIP RAFTERS - 79 1/4"
2
ROOF PANELS - 36" X 11 1/2"
4 COMMON RAFTERS - 60 1/4"
1
FRENCH DOOR
6
JACK RAFTERS - 41"
2
DOOR CASING
6
JACK RAFTERS - 19 1/4"
2
DOOR JAMB
1
BACK WALL PANEL
2
DOOR STOPS
STRAPS
1
TOP DOOR STOP
1
ROOF PANEL - 48 X 80
1
TOP DOOR CASING
1
WINDOW PANEL
1
TOP DOOR JAMB
1
WINDOW
1
THRESHOLD
4 WINDOW SPACERS - 17 1/2"
1
THRESHOLD SUPPORT
1
1
HARDWARE BAG
2 FRONT JACK RAFTERS - 28 7/8"
1
HUB
2
TOP WALL PLATES - 48"
1
INSTRUCTIONS
2
TOP WALL PLATES - 45 1/2"
2
FRONT WALL PANELS
1
TOP WALL PLATE - 72 7/8"
1
TOP WALL LEFT - 44 1/2"
1
TOP WALL RIGHT - 47"
4
BACK SOFFITS - 60"
2
SIDE SOFFITS - 72"
2
FRONT SOFFITS - 42 1/2"
CENTRE RAFTER - 48 1/4"
STRAPS
CHECK
A) General Instructions and Helpful Hints
Please read the instructions BEFORE beginning assembly
Assembly Instruction Organization
The instructions are organized into eleven sections. It is strongly recommended that you assemble your cabana in the
order presented. Our experience has shown that assemblers meet with the most success when all the kit parts are
identified and sorted according to the section prior to assembly. Please refer to the parts checklist on page A.
Marking the Plates
The framing dimensions for stud placement given in these instructions are "on center" measurements. The distances
shown are measured from the end of the plate to the middle of the stud. Studs are 1 1/2" wide when stood on edge,
so the edges of the stud are 3/4" on each side of center. When placing studs it is often convenient to mark the stud
center first, and then make a mark 3/4" away on one or both sides of the center mark. Indicate the center mark with
an "X" so as not to confuse it with an edge mark.
24"
3/4"
48"
When marking plates for the walls, both the top and bottom plates can be marked at the same time by laying them
side by side. Use a square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other.
Squaring a Frame
To square a frame, measure the diagonals (from
corner to corner each way) checking that the
two measurements are the same. If they are
not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that
the two measurements become the same.
A
B
Measurement A
should equal
Measurement B
Recommended Finish
Treat the exposed parts of your cabana with a minimum of two coats of a transparent natural or coloured opaque finish. A quality brand name finish is available at the retailer where you purchased your cabana. This treatment is
required in order to validate your manufacturers warranty.
A Word about Pool Cabanas
If you intend to use your cabana as a facility to house gas fired pool heating equipment, be sure to consult with your local gas
service person on the placement of your equipment before erecting your cabana. This will ensure that all clearances are
adhered to, and that you are able to position the roof trusses so that they don't interfere with the stack on your gas heater.
A Note on Lumber Dimensions and Wood Properties
Throughout the instructions reference is made to various lumber dimensions. Please remember that planing at the
sawmill has reduced to size of dimensioned lumber such as 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, 1x6 etc. These materials are 1/4" to 1/2"
thinner and narrower that stated (ie 2x3 is actually 1 1/2" x 2 1/2", 1x6 is 3/4" x 5 1/2"). In cases where a depth or
width is given for material that we have machined (trim, door casing, etc.), the measurements are usually as stated.
Keep in mind that wood is a natural material and is prone to swelling and shrinkage, therefore the size of some parts
many vary slightly from the dimensions given. This may result in some minor joint variations, but should not be cause
for concern.
rev. 04/06/99
Page 1
Cedar Shingle Application
1) Use two 1" galvanized nails per shingle, regardless of
the shingle's width. Nails should be placed 3/4" from
the edge of the shingle and 1 1/2" from the butt line of
the following course. Nails should be driven flush but
not so that the nail head crushes the wood.
2) The exposure, or distance between the courses
should be 5 1/2".
3) The shingles should be spaced a minimum of 1/4" to
a maximum of 3/8" apart. The joints should be at least
1 1/2" away from the any joint in the previous row.
Joints in every second row should not be in direct
alignment.
4) A starter course should be laid down overhanging the
eave and gable fascia by 3/4". The first course is laid down
on top of the starter course. Maintain joint separation of at
least 1 1/2" between the first and starter course. When
nailing a gazebo roof, angle the nails slightly when applying
the starter course to prevent nail penetration through the
roof panel.
5) If you are applying cedar shingles to a cabana gable roof
it is recommended that the shingles for the first and starter
courses are soaked in water overnight. This will allow the
shingles conform to the bend in the roof.
6) Continue the courses up the roof until the weather
exposure at the peak of the roof is less than 5 1/2". Trim the
shingles at the ridge and hip line.
shingles spaced
1/4" to 3/8" apart
nails 3/4" from
edge of shingle
butt
line
3/4"
1 1/2"
5 1/2"
shingles to
overhang
eave by 3/4"
first course
starter course
maintain joint
separation of at
least 1 1/2"
Hips and Ridges
bevel edge
1) Intersecting roof surfaces at the ridge or hips should be
of shingles
capped with site-made or pre-assembled ridge cap. The
ridge caps should have alternating overlaps and be the
same length as the shingles. The material used for
site-made ridge caps should be of uniform width approximately 4" to 5", beveled as shown in the diagram,
and held together with two 1 3/4" to 2" nails.
2) The ridge caps require 1 3/4" to 2" nails . Again,
nails should be placed 3/4" from the edge of the
shingle and 1 1/2" from the butt line of the following
course. Nails should be driven flush but not so that
the nail head crushes the wood.
3) The exposure of the ridge cap should be 5 1/2".
4) Ice and water shield (supplied with gazebos and hip
roof cabanas) should be applied over the hip joints
prior to installing the ridge caps. The shield must be
first course
applied on a dry roof. Ensure that it follows the shingle
starter
course
contour. (see diagram opposite) If applied in cold conice and
ditions, it should be held in place with nails or staples.
water
shield
5) Lay down a starter course underneath the first course.
Alternate the overlap between the first and starter courses.
6) Shingle the ridge by beginning with a first and starter course
at each end. Shingles should project 1" to 1 1/2" over the gable
rake. End shingles may be cut back at an angle to prevent
ridge cap section
drips. Work towards the middle from each end. As the courses
to cover joint
converge, trim the ends of the shingles so that they don't
overlap the weather exposure of the course opposite. When the
remaining exposure is less than 16", finish the ridge by applying
a 5 1/2" section of ridge cap to cover the joint. The ridge cap
section should be held in place by 4 exposed nails.
alternate
overlap
ensure shield follows
shingle contour
Ice and Water
Shield Detail
Asphalt Shingles
1 ) Please refer to the instructions supplied by the shingle
manufacturer. Most manufacturers print complete
instructions on the back of the shingle packaging.
rev. 07/25/96
double course
overhanging gable
rake by 1" to 1 1/2"
page 2
1) Floor Assembly Instructions (sold separatelly)
Floor Framing
96"
16"
16"
16"
16"
16"
46 1/2"
60 3/4"
76 3/4"
92 3/4"
93"
68"
48"
flush here
1) Lay out the plates and the joists 16" on center as
shown above.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for
each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud
stays flush with the plate.
rev. 06/16/99
flush here
2 - 3" nails
page 3
1) The site you choose for your Garden Decor Shed should be well drained and free from
puddling.
2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to leveling
and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assembly
of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grass
under the cabana.
Final Assembly and Positioning
If it is not possible to level the site, or you wish to raise your shed in areas of poor drainage,
poured concrete footings may be used.
1) Set down patio stones or pour footings positioned as shown in the diagram below. We
recommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive
shimming.
2) Attach the 2 x 6 P.T. runners on their face to the bottom of the floor, setting them in 6" from the
edges. Use two - 3" galvanized nails per joist.
3) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. Add cedar shims or
blocks between the patio stones and the 2 x 6 runners to level the frame.
96"
2x6
runners
1'x 2'
patio
stones
93"
rev. 06/16/99
page 4
Floor Sheathing
1) Fasten the 2 full sheets of 48" x 96" plywood, starting from the left side as shown below. The
edges of the plywood will assist you in keeping the floor square. Begin by nailing the 4 corners of the
1st sheet, using 1 3/4" nails. Ensure the edge of the plywood stays flush with the outside edges of
the outer joists and plate, and that it only comes to the middle of the inside joist (allowing room for
the 2nd sheet). Position the second sheet next to the first. Mark the sheet along the outer edge of
the plate and cut. Nail both sheets every 8" along all plates and joists.
rev. 06/16/99
page 5
2) Front Wall Assembly
1) Lay the two - 68" plates (cut 22 1/2° on each end), two studs and two bevel studs as shown
below.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top
of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align bevel studs with ends of the plates as shown in the
Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing shown below.
68"
36 "
door
opening
bevel stud
bevel stud
15"
53"
bevel
stud
bevel
stud
Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing
Not to Scale
rev. 06/16/99
page 6
3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
15 3/8"
15 3/8"
not to scale
flush here
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
approx 1"
4) Position the two 15 3/8" starter pieces (see detail opposite) so
that they overhang the bottom plate by 1" and are flush with the
door opening. Fasten them to the frame using 1 3/4" nails.
rev. 06/16/99
page 10
3) Left Back Wall Assembly
1) Lay out the two 72” and 19” left back wall plates and 6 studs on 24” centres as shown below, with the
outside section @ 19” spacing. You will have 2 wall sections (one 72”, the other 19”).
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two 3” nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the
stud stays flush with the plate. Fasten the two sections together using 3” nails @ 8” intervals.
96"
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
approx.1"
Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 2 1/2"
3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
4) LLay the two 48" panels as shown. The panels must be flush with the top plate, and overhang
of tthe end stud on both sides by 2 1/2". Ensure that the bottom of the panels also overhang
frthe bottom plate by approx. 1". Fasten as before.
rev. 06/16/99
page 12
4) Right Back Wall Assembly
1) Lay out the two 72” and 24” right back wall plates and 6 studs on 24” centres as shown below. You will
have 2 wall sections (a 72” section and a 24” section).
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two 3” nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the
stud stays flush with the plate. Fasten the two sections together using 3” nails @ 8” intervals.
96"
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
approx 1"
3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
4) Lay the two 48" panels as shown. The panels will be flush with the top and the sides of the
frame. Make sure that the siding overhangs the bottom plate by approx. 1". Fasten as before.
rev. 06/16/99
page 14
5) Side Wall Assembly (please refer to appendix)
1) Lay the two - 48" left side wall plates (cut 22 1/2° on one end), three studs and one bevel stud
as shown below.
2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top
of the stud stays flush with the plate.
bevel stud
flush here
flush here
2 - 3" nails
rev. 06/16/99
page 15
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
1"
3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
4) Position the 48" window panel as shown. The panels will be flush with the top and sides of
the frame. Fasten as before.
rev. 06/16/99
page 16
APPENDIX W9-5
SIDELITE WINDOW IN LEFT AND RIGHT 5-SIDED WALLS
PARTS CHECKLIST - Please compare with the parts included in your shed kit. Note that the
siding pieces are for the Cedar and Canexel Models only - Fir Panels have window openings.
All Sizes:
2- Window Spacers (17 ½")
2- Sidelite Windows
Side wall for 8' 5-Sided Shed
Side wall for 11' 5-Sided Shed
1- Siding - 1x8x48"(tongue cut)
1- Siding - 1x8x66"(tongue cut)
3- Siding - 1x8x48"
3- Siding - 1x8x66"
16- Siding - 1x8x15"
16- Siding - 1x8x24"
Side wall for 9' 5-Sided Shed
Side wall for 12' 5-Sided Shed
1- Siding - 1x8x54"(tongue cut)
1- Siding - 1x8x72"(tongue cut)
3- Siding - 1x8x54"
3- Siding - 1x8x72"
16- Siding - 1x8x18"
16- Siding - 1x8x27"
Side wall for 10' 5-Sided Shed
1- Siding - 1x8x60"(tongue cut)
3- Siding - 1x8x60"
16- Siding - 1x8x21"
Should you have any questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to call us directly @
1-800-606-8911
or check our website@
www.gardendec.com
Made by Kenex Manufacturing Ltd.
Right Side Wall Assembly with W9 Sidelite Window
1)
Lay the two right side wall plates (cut 22 1/2° on one end) with the number of studs indicated by the table
below . Place one bevel stud at the end as shown.
2)
Attach each stud to the plates using two-3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud
stays flush with the plate. Align the bevel stud with the end of the plates as shown in the Framing Perspective
Drawing below.
3)
Position the windows spacers (2x3x17 ½") as shown in the drawing below. Using 3" nails, nail each spacer
twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush. Square the wall in the general instructions on page 2.
Window Opening
Top Plate
17 1/4"
Bevel Stud
5"
57 1/2"
Bevel Stud
6 1/2"
A
B
C
D
E
5-SIDED WINDOW WALL POSITIONING
SIZE
A
B
C
D
E
8'
N/A
12"
31"
N/A
45 1/2"
9'
N/A
15"
34"
N/A
51 1/2"
10'
N/A
18"
37"
N/A
57 1/2"
11'
10 "
20"
39"
51"
62 1/2"
12'
11 1/2"
23"
42"
55"
68 1/2"
Left Side Wall Assembly with W9 Sidelite Window
1)
Lay the two left side wall plates (cut 22 1/2° on one end) with the number of studs indicated by the table
below . Place one bevel stud at the end as shown.
2)
Attach each stud to the plates using two-3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud
stays flush with the plate. Align the bevel stud with the end of the plates as shown in the Framing Perspective
Drawing below.
3)
Position the windows spacers (2x3x17 ½") as shown in the drawing below. Using 3" nails, nail each spacer
twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush. Square the wall as in the general instructions on page 2.
Window Opening
Top Plate
17 1/4"
5"
Bevel Stud
Bevel Stud
57 1/2"
6 1/2"
A
B
C
D
E
SIZE
8’
9’
10’
11’
12’
A
N/A
N/A
10”
12”
13”
B
14 1/2”
17 1/2”
20 1/2”
23 1/2”
26 1/2””
C
33 1/2”
36 1/2”
39 1/2”
42 1/2”
45 1/2”
D
N/A
N/A
50”
54”
59”
E
48”
54”
60”
66”
72”
48"
Siding
overhangs
bottom plate
approx 1"
Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 2 1/2"
4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.
5) Position the 48" window panel on the frame as shown. The panel will overhang both sides
of the frame by 2 1/2" on either side. The panel will be flush with the top of the frame.
Fasten as before.
rev. 06/17/99
7) Erecting the Walls
Re-check the floor before erecting the walls. It is very important that
the floor is flat and level to insure proper installation of the roof.
Erection Plan - Top View
right back wall
right side wall
left back wall
front wall
left side wall
1) Starting with the right back wall, lift the wall into position as shown below. Center the wall on
the floor so that the overhang, if any, is equal on both sides of the floor. Nail scrap packaging
material diagonally across gable wall and floor to help support the wall.
2) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the
wall tight against the edge of the floor, fasten wall by
nailing the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals.
nail through bottom
plate every 16" with
3" nails
overhang, if any
should be equal
on both sides of
the floor
floor
Be sure to adequately support the
gable wall before proceeding
rev. 06/03/99
scrap
packaging
material
3) Slide the left back wall into place ensuring that the corner is tight with the other wall.
4) Adjust the walls so that the top plates are flush with each other (this may require you to
temporarily shim one of the walls). With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner
together from the outside by nailing seven - 1 3/4" nails through the panel overhang into the gable
corner stud. Reinforce the corner by using three - 3" nails to nail the corner studs together from the
inside.
flush here
wall
top plate
wall top plate
5) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail
the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals.
6) Next, position each of the two side walls as shown below. Ensure that the inside corners are
tight with the back walls.
7) Fasten the corners together as detailed in step 4. Do not nail the side wall plates to the floor
yet.
8) Slide the front wall into place between the two side walls.
9) Fasten both front wall corners Adjust the wall sections so that the top plates are flush with each
other. (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls. With one person pushing the
corner tight, fasten the corner together by using 3" nails to fasten the inside corner in three places,
top, middle and bottom. Leave the front wall plate loose for now.
10) For each of the side walls, with one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against
the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. Leave the front wall plate
loose for now.
rev. 05/06/99
8) 5-Sided Roof
The following instructions provide methods to install all of our Cabana 5 sided
Roofs. Roofs may vary in sizes and material, but the construction procedure
remains the same.
The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to
assemble your 5-Sided Cabana. Extensive diagrams and
complete explanations are offered to make it simple for those
who have little or no experience with a project of this nature.
Kenex Manufacturing Ltd
Assembly Instructions
Begin by organizing your roof parts in to categories, separate hip (there
will always be 3), common and jack rafters in to separate piles. You’ll
also have one 8 sided hub, and your top plates. A helpful hint when
building smaller 5 sided roofs, is to start assembly of your roof on the
floor, then set it aside when your walls are erected and your roof can be
placed on top. Doing it this way can make for a heavy lift, but if you
manage to bribe the neighbours into helping, its an easier way to
assemble it. *Note* These instructions can be used for any sized unit,
although the material and rafter count may differ. E.g.: Larger units
consist of more jack rafters. Note the back wall plates are in 2 pieces each.
L
E
F
T
Longest Plate
S
I
D
E
7" Shorter Than
Longest Plate
Left Side Plate Is
Always Shorter
Than Right Side
T
ON
FR
L
AL
W
1.
Lay your double top
plates out using this
diagram. Pay special
attention to the order
of the double top
plates. Its easy to
mix them up, so take
your time and lay
them out properly.
The double plates
plates will sit on top
of your walls, they
can be secured to
your walls using 3”
screws or nails
approx. every 10”-12”
RIGHT SIDE
The next step will show you how to mark the locations of your common
and hip rafters. It may be easier to mark your double top plates on the
ground.
It should be noted before assembling your roof, that rafters may not
seem to fit properly, it will take some adjusting and maneuvering of
walls, rafters etc. for the roof to achieve an accurate fit. Be aware
there will be slight variances when assembling the structure.
Assembly Instructions
2.
Clearly mark
your plates
and
remember
that there
will be 3/4”
on either side
of the center
mark. An
1 ½” total, to
accommodate
your rafters.
Center Common On 1/2 Way Mark
Center Hip Rafters
On Outside Corner
Center Common
Rafter On This
Point.
Center Front Rafter
On 1/2 Way Mark
Center Common
Rafter On This Point,
3.
Begin by
assembling your 3
hip rafters first.
Use 3-4 3” screws
to secure them to
the 3 corners, and
another 3-4 screws
to secure into your
hub. It may be
easier to assemble
left & right hips to
hub 1st, then lift
into place and
secure back hip
rafter to form a
tripod.
Hip Rafters (3)
8 Sided
Hub
Center Commo
Rafter On 1/2
Way Mark.
Assembly Instructions
4.
The cuts at the end of your
rafters are referred to as the
“birds mouth” When
placing all your rafters be
sure that the birds mouth is
snug with your top plates.
And use three 3” screws to
secure your rafters into the
plates. It will take some
muscle to hold and screw
them tight into place.
Ensure the
"birds mouth"
is snug with
the top plate
Secure to top
plate using 3"
screws
5.
Install your 4th
rafter, the front
rafter the same
way as your
hips. Your
ready to install
your common
rafters. If they
don’t seem to fit
properly, you
may have to
push or pull
down on the
hub (peak) or
may even have
to push or pull
the walls, these
roofs can be
tricky and it
will take some
patience to
achieve a good
fit.
Common
Rafters (4)
(1)Front
Rafter
Assembly Instructions
6.
Depending on
the size of your
roof, between
6-18 (1-3 sets)
jacks are
required. Jack
rafters are
secured into
hip rafters,
there will be
1-left & 1-right.
Jack rafters
can be
maneuvered
slightly, their
position can be
altered to
accommodate
roof boards.
Use 3” screws
to secure.
Jack Rafters
(6) Per Set
Left & Right
Note.
When you receive your plans, you will notice that the Osb roofing boards
we show come in full 4’ x 8’ sheets. The reason for this is because when
roofs are assembled there is always a slight variance. Each roof has to
be custom fitted with the Osb board we have given you. We apologize for
the inconvenience, but we must do it this way to assure a proper fitting
and supporting roof structure. Ideally you want the rough side of the Osb
facing up, this will supply grip for applying the shingles. There are 2
ways to go about this. (see next page for details, diagram 8 and 9)
Assembly Instructions
7.
Set back ½” or approx. a
“finger width”. This will
eventually be cover with your
shingles, so the distance is
flexible, but that gap should not
be too large.
Osb Roof
Board
Approx. 1/2 "
Rafter
Top Plate
8.
1. Take a full sheet, and tack it
into place using 2” nails. Typically
you want all vertical seams to
center on your rafters. Cover as
much roof as possible with one
piece, the less cuts to make the
better. Remember that Osb roof
boards should not come down flush
with the rafters ends, they should
sit back appox. a “finger width”
from the end. Figure 7 on previous
page. Once your board is in place
and you feel confident to use a saw
on the roof, use a chalk line to
mark the Osb up the hip rafter.
Using a circular saw. Cut along the
chalk line. Don’t throw away your
cut off, it can be used somewhere
else. See figure 8a.
2. The alternative is to use your
tape measure to obtain the
measurements to mark and cut.
Measure A, remember your
measurements are always to the
middle of the rafter. Make a mark
on your roof board for A. Now
measure B, mark your roof board
where B is. Use a straight edge or
a chalk line to mark a cutting line
between A & B. The result will be
C, this is the line to run your saw
along. The piece can now be lifted
into place and tacked into place
using 2” nails. See figure 8b.
Assembly Instructions - start with the small panels at the bottom.
8a.
8b.
B
A
C
9.
Remember
that off cuts
can be used
elsewhere on
the roof,
usually on
the opposite
side from
where the off
cut came. Its
also a good
idea to
stagger your
seams as
much as
possible, the
diagram gives
a general idea
of staggering
seams. This
strengthens
the overall
integrity of
the roof.
Assembly Instructions
The roof will be tricky, but doing like this will achieve the best fit
possible. Secure your roof boards into place using 1 1/2” nails approx. every
8”. That’s it, your roof is framed and sheeted, now it’s time to move onto
your trim!
Assembly Instructions
9. 5 Sided Roof Trim Assembly
The following instructions provide methods to install all of our Cabana Hip Roof
trim. Trim may vary in sizes and material, but the construction procedure
remains the same.
The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to
assemble your 5-Sided Cabana. Extensive diagrams and
complete explanations are offered to make it simple for those
who have little or no experience with a project of this nature.
Assembly Instructions
Trim Assembly
Begin by organizing all your trim parts. Separate them by their length
and width. It should be noted that most of the trim should be cut long,
you will need to make some cuts yourself, using a handsaw and/or a
circular saw. These measures are taken to ensure the cedar is top
quality, and if any minimal cracking that has occurred it can be cut off.
1.
Typically we start with the soffits. Soffits are the cedar trim that are
attached to the underside of the rafter ends. On smaller units, the
soffits will all be the length of the building. However, on our larger units
the soffits will be cut into two or more pieces. They should always meet
centered on a rafter. Standard overhang roof’s will consist of one course,
and extra overhang roof’s will have two courses. Take a piece of trim
that has a 45 degree angle on one end, center the cut on the hip rafter
(corner) while the piece is held in position, mark the opposite end to the
center of the closest rafter. Make a straight cut across, use two 2” nails
to fasten into position.
1st Course
(standard
overhang)
2nd Course
(extra overhang)
1st Cut
Stnd/extra
Staggered Joints
(extra overhang)
Assembly Instructions
2.
The short
side walls
trim is cut
straight.
The front
wall trim is
cut at 22.5*
A small
corner will
have to be
cut off. Nail
it into place
and hand
saw it
following the
side wall
soffits
straight
across.
These corners can be tricky,
you will have to cut off a small
corner to accomodate joining
trim.
3.
It should be
noted that when
your soffits are
complete, they
should come
past the end of
your rafters.
Fascia is not flush
with rafter
Rafter
1st Course
Standard
Overhang
2nd Course
Extra
Overhang
Fascia
Wall
Assembly Instructions
4a.
Rafter
Wall
Soffits
Fascia
Fascia is the
cedar trim that
runs vertically
around the
structure. It is
used to cover
your rafter
ends. The top
of the fascia
should come up
level where the
angle on the
rafter ends.
Use arrow as a
gauge.
4b.
All the trim is secured using 1 1/2” nails. Take your time when nailing
your fascia into the soffits, be careful your nails are directly into the soffits.
Fascia will also be cut long to avoid cracked ends. Fascia on the front
and the back of your structure will come past your side fascia. On larger
units your fascia will also come in more than one piece. Just be sure to
push joints tight to one another. To cut your fascia to the right size,
either hold it up to its position, mark, and the cut it on the ground.
Another possibility is to nail your fascia into the soffits and then cut
while its in place.
Its not until you have assembled your soffits and fascia that you can
begin shingling. Window trim is already assembled with your windows,
certain windows may require additional trimming, but generally is
limited to one piece and is self explanatory. See the included documents
on how to install the door you have purchased.
Assembly Instructions
4c.
Rafter
Fascia
5.
Identify your skirts,
will be full width
pieces of trim. It will
take some cutting
and or digging
grooves to custom fit
the pieces to the
grade of the ground.
Try to minimize
space between the
ground and your
skirts.
Assembly Instructions
6.
Nail side
corners
flush with
front walls.
The front
corner
should
cover the
edge of side
corner.
Corners
should be
pushed
right up to
soffits and
should
come down
to bottom
of skirts.
Flush With
Soffits
Side Corner
Corner Trim (2)
Front Corner
Flush with Bottom
Of Skirts
7.
The front wall to side wall
corner trim is a little bit
different. You will notice
that these trim pieces are
ripped on an angle up the
side. The are joined
together like the opposite
drawing.
Front
Wall
Side
Wall
Your trim is complete, your nearing completion!
Assembly Instructions
Notes:
- Door and window trim separate.
- Shingles are now ready for
installation, we recommend
following the manufacturer’s
instructions because installation
procedures may vary.
Notes:
Deluxe and French Door Appendix
1) Cut out the bottom plate where it crosses the door opening. Use a handsaw and cut the plate
flush with the door studs. The rough opening should now be 36 1/2" x 73 1/2".
2) Decide which way you want your door to operate. It may be hinged on either side and may
swing in or out (consider the intended use of your shed and possible space constraints). Lay
the door on the floor of the shed and arrange the horizontal door jamb, the vertical door jambs
and the threshold around it. See Door Layout Detail.
36"
horizontal
door jamb
34"
1/4"
8"
71 1/2"
71 7/8"
3/16"
1/4"
Door Layout Detail
3/16"
vertical
door jamb
8"
threshold
threshold
support
rev. 02/03/00
41"
page 24
3) Place one hinge 8" from the bottom of the door, and the other hinge 8" from the top of the
door. Ensure that the top of the hinge-pins point to the top of the door and that the front edges
of the hinge plates are flush with the face of the door. See Hinge Detail 1 and 2. Attach the
hinges to the door using the 1 1/4" screws provided.
4) Place on of the vertical door jambs on edge on the door face next to the hinges. Position the
jamb so that the overhang is the same at the top and bottom of the door. Flip the hinges open
so they lay flat against the 3 1/2" face of the jamb. Lift the jamb up until the back edge of the
hinge plate is flush with the edge of the jamb. Attach the hinge to the jamb using only two
screws, leave the middle hole empty (this is where the jamb will be attached to the door stud).
These screws will protrude through the back of the jamb, but should not interfere with the
installation of the door. See Hinge Detail 1 and 2.
5) Now flip the hinged jamb to the closed position. Attach the horizontal door jamb to the
vertical jamb using either three - 1 3/4" nails or two - 2 1/2" screws provided (pre-drill holes if you
use the screws). Make sure that the horizontal jamb is flush with the end and edge of the
vertical jamb.
leave this hole empty
3 1/2"
3/16"
approx.
8"
leave this hole empty
flush
here
Hinge Detail 1
flush
here
8"
3/16"
approx.
flush
here
al
tic amb
r
ve or j
do
flush
here
door
8"
Hinge Detail 2
rev. 02/03/00
"
16 rox)
/
3 p
p
(a
page 25
6) Now attach the threshold to the bottom of the vertical jamb. The front of the threshold is the
edge that has the 2 1/2" tabs ( these tabs go flush to the outside of the front wall panels). Keep
this edge facing the right way (this depends if your door swings in or out). Keep the inside edge of
the threshold flush to the inside edge of the vertical jamb and the outside edge of the threshold
flush to the outside face of the vertical jamb. Nail or screw as in step 5. See Threshold Detail.
7) Attach the other vertical jamb in the same manner as the first.
8) Stand the door into the opening and make sure that the jambs are flush to the outside of the
wall panels. Check the gap between the door and the jambs - it should be even around all sides. If
necessary, use the shims provided to shim the door behind each hinge in order to even out the gap
(split the shims as required so that you will have enough). If the hinged jamb is tight to the door
stud and the gap around the door is even, the shims are not necessary. Open the door and attach
the jamb through the third hole in each hinge using the 2 1/2" screws provided.
9) Shim the other vertical jamb and door stud at the top, middle, and bottom. Make sure that the
gap between the door and the jamb is even. Using 2 1/2" screws, attach the jamb to the shims and
door stud. Center the screws in the middle of the jamb so that when the door stop is attached, it
will hide the screws.
10) Mount the lock set according to the manufacturer's instructions.
11) Close the door and place the vertical door stop on the left and right side of the door. Position
the stop so that it is flush to the door face. Do not push the stop too tight to the door, as this will
impede the performance of the door and lock set. Nail the door stop to the jambs using five - 1 3/4"
nails per stop. Nail the horizontal door stop between the tops of the vertical door stops (you may
wish to temporarily shim the horizontal door jamb with scrap material to avoid forcing the jambs
apart at the top).
12) Using four - 1 3/4" nails, attach the threshold support to the wall under the lip of the threshold.
The ends should be flush with the ends of the threshold. See Door Layout Detail.
13) Place the vertical door casing on the threshold lip. Position the casing approximately 1/8" to
1/4" from the inside edge of the jamb. Attach using five - 1 3/4" nails. Repeat for the other side of
the door. See Door Casing Detail.
vertical jamb
14) Center the horizontal door casing on top of the vertical casing and attach with three nails.
flush
here
vertical
door
jamb
de
insi
threshold
ide
flush
here
rev. 02/03/00
threshold
e
edg
outs
vertical
door
casing
dge
threshold
support
e
Threshold Detail
"
- 1/4
"
8
/
1 eft
l
rox.
app f jamb ed
o pos
ex
Door Casing Detail
page 26
INSTALLING ASPHALT SHINGLES (REQUIRED)
Using four nails per shingle, nail as shown in drawing. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with,but not cutting into
shingle surface.
Follow illustrations to apply Shingles to your Building.
1"
(2.5 cm)
1/2"
(1.3 cm)
1"
(2.5 cm)
Sealing Strip
NAILS
After completing shingling your building, remove any overhanging, excess shingles by cutting them off with a utility knife.
First row of Shingles are installed backwards
to make a seal barrier-flush to bottom of Drip Edge
It is okay if last Shingle
overlaps it will be cut
off later
Roof
Shingle
Line up notch on
top of Shingle with
edge of Roof to stagger
the Shingles
Line up notch on
side of Shingle with
edge of Roof to stagger
the Shingles
INSTALLING SHINGLES (CONTINUED)
To cover the Peak of your building, cut strip
Shingles into individual pieces by dividing
at cutout as shown. Bend each piece over
the Peak and nail 5-7/8” (14.9cm) above
the butt edge and 1”(2.5cm) in from each
side, exposing each piece 5-1/8” (13cm) to
the weather.
Cut any Shingles
Overhanging Sides
Cut single Shingle
into three pieces
5-1/8"
(13cm)
5-7/8"
(14.9cm)
NAIL INSPECTION
After assembly is finished, check the entire building inside and
out for any protruding nails. Pound any protruding nails into
the wood or cut them off flush.
Roof Panel
Trim Nails
Not in Studs
Nail That Missed Stud
REQUIRED MAINTENANCE
See requirements in the limited conditional warranty on the last page of this manual.
Keep Sprinklers
Away From Building
Keep Grass
Trimmed
See Warranty Requirements
Limited Conditional
Warranty
WARRANTY
We warrant the following:
1.
Every product is warranted from defects in workmanship and manufacturing for two years.
2.
All hardware and metal components are warranted for two years.
3.
Trim is warranted for 3 years.
4.
Waferboard siding and sheathing is warranted for two years.
5.
T 1-11, Cedar and Canexel siding are warranted for 15 years.
We will repair, replace or pay for the affected part. In no event shall we pay the cost of labor or installation or any other costs related
thereto. All warranties are from date of purchase. If a cash refund is paid on an affected part, it will be prorated from the date of
purchase. Note that due to the organic nature of wood, knots, small cracks and minor movement are not considered defects.
CONDITIONS
The warranty is effective only when:
1.
The unit has been erected in accordance with the assembly instructions.
2.
The unit has been properly shingled and painted or stained and reasonably and regularly maintained thereafter.
3.
The failure occurs when the unit is owned by the original purchaser.
4.
We have received the warranty registration card within thirty (30) days of purchase and notification of the failure in writing
within the warranty period specified above.
5.
We have had reasonable opportunity during the sixty (60) days following receipt of notification to inspect and verify the
failure prior to commencement of any repair work.
REQUIREMENTS
To validate your warranty, it is necessary to properly maintain your building; shingle the roof and paint or solid-colored stain the siding
using 100% acrylic latex exterior product with a minimum of two (2) coats within thirty (30) days of assembly; caulk above all doors and
all horizontal and vertical trim boards; paint and seal all exposed edges, sides and faces of siding to include all exterior walls and
all sides and all edges of doors.
Other Requirements
Keep vegetation trimmed away from building. Water from sprinklers must be kept off unit. In no event will we be responsible for any
indirect, incidental, consequential or special damages nor for failure(s) that are caused by events, acts or omissions beyond our control
including, but not limited to, misuse or improper assembly, improper maintenance (which eventually leads to rot or decay) and acts of
God. We will not be held responsible for any labor costs incurred to construct your unit.
CLAIM PROCEDURE
To make a claim under this warranty, call (800) 606-8911. Please have ready the information below when you call or include the
information when writing:
1.
The model and size of the product.
2.
A list of the part(s) for which the claim is made.
3.
Proof of purchase of the item, as shown on the original invoice.
IMPORTANT: This is your warranty certificate.
Please complete and mail your warranty card to properly validate your warranty.
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W Cas
Simply send us a photo of your completed
structure and be eligible to win $250.00.
On December 30th we'll choose what we consider to be
the nicest shot, and mail the winner a cheque.
Elements such as lighting, location, landscaping and
stain or paint application will be taken into consideration as well as the overall appeal of the photograph.
GOOD LUCK!
rev. 02/02/00
ver. 2.00
Please detach and return the card (or fax) to the address below (with copy of dated retail receipt) to validate your warranty.
Warranty Registration Card
Name:
Address:
City:
Province/State:
Model:
Date Purchased:
Retail Outlet:
Store Location:
We would appreciate a moment of your time to answer the following questions:
Did you find the instructions clear?
If not please explain
Yes
Did you encounter any difficulties with assembly?
If so please explain
No
Yes
No
Kenex Manufacturing Ltd
27 Regan Rd, Brampton, ON
L7A 1B2
Tel. 1-800-606-8911 (Locally 905-840-9469)
Fax 905-840-6904
email: [email protected]