UNIT V
COSMETICS
V.MANIMARAN
LECTURER
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS
SRM COLLEGE OF PHARMACY
GENERAL
• The skin of the infant and the adult differs both histological and physiologically in many respects
• It is less hairy , thinner and less cornified in infants • There is tendency towards peeling and flaking of skin during first 3 weeks after birth
• Sebaceous glands are present in the newborn and start functioning early. • Sebaceous glands are present in the newborn and start functioning early
• Being comparatively thin , skin of infant is expected to be more permeable to topical agents applied • They are mainly concerned with keeping the baby clear and comfortable
FUNCTIONAL REQUIREMENTS OF BABY PRODUCTS
• From the foregoing account it appears that most skin problems in babies occur because of wrapping of them in tightly fitting garments providing warm and stagnant environment for growth bacteria
• From the functional point of view ,baby skin care product should protect baby skin from hostile environment by cleaning the skin thoroughly from sebum , grime and excreta
• There is no dearth of expert opinions on the best method of cleaning but many of them are contradictory and confusing • The types of products which are available for babies are same as that for adults, e.g., soap, oils, lotions, etc.
• Many formulations are tempted to include a germicidal in baby skin products, common examples being cetyl pyridinium chloride and benzethonium chloride
BABY OIL
• Though there is some evidence that oils used and greasy materials can, by occluding the skin surface, predispose infants to prickly heat ,but surprisingly baby oil remains a popular product
• In the formulations of baby oil , bland vegetable oils like ground nut oil, lanolin derivatives and some higher alcohols can be used
• The most popular brands of baby oils contain mineral oil of high purity without perfume or a trace of perfume with solubilizer
• Formulae 1, 2 , 3 are examples of products containing mineral oil only, vegetable oil and mixture of mineral oil and vegetable oil.
FORMULA 1 mineral oil 100.00
FORMULA 2
Groundnut oil 100.00
Anti oxidant q.s.
FORMULA 3
Mineral oil 60.00
Groundnut oil 40.00
Anti oxidant q.s.
BABY CREAM AND LOTIONS • Traditionally baby creams and lotions can be prepared by using triethanolamine stearate , an anionic emulsifier .
• Formula 4 are examples of this type of products FORMULA 4
Mineral oil 25.0
Lanolin 1.5
Stearic acid 1.0
Triethanolamine 0.5
Stearyl alcohol 0.5
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Sodium alginate 0.3
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s. • Non‐ionic emulsifiers based on sorbitol can also be used in baby cream and lotions
• Formula 5 are examples of this type of products FORMULA 5
Mineral oil 35.0
Lanolin 1.5
Cetyl alcohol 1.0
Sorbitan oleate 2.0
Polysorbate80 5.0
Di‐methecone 5.0
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s. • Polyoxyethylene sorbitan lanolin derivatives are through to be fairly mild
• These have been used in baby products
• Formula 6 illustrates use of polyoxyethylene sorbitan lanolin derivatives
FORMULA 6
Mineral oil 20.0
Stearic acid 10.0
Bees wax 3.0
Lanolin 1.0
PEG‐20 sorbitan lanolate 5.0
PEG‐40 sorbitan lanolate 1.0
Sorbitol 10.0
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s. • Emulsifier based on sucrose esters of palmitate and stearic acids are mild and non‐toxic • These are avilable overseas under the trade name “crodestas”
• Crodestas are admixtures of di‐ and tri‐esters of sucrose • Formula 7 illustrates a baby lotion and formula 8 illustrates a baby cream
FORMULA 7
Mineral oil 24.8
Crodesta F 70 3.0
Crodesta F 160 0.5
Hydroxy ethyl cellulose 0.2
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
formula 8 Mineral oil 32.0
Cetearyl alcohol 0.5
Petroleum jelly 5.0
Lanolin alcohol 1.0
Crodesta formula 110 3.0
Glycerin 2.5
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
• Anti septic baby lotion and cream can be prepared using cationic quaternary ammonium compounds like pyridinium chloride
• Lotions and creams invariably contain small amount of free fatty acids • These free fatty acids will inactive cationic compound on a molecular basis
• Thereafter an excess of quaternary compound is required • It may be calculated from acid value of the oily phase BABY POWDER
• These powders are intended to make the infant feel more comfortable and to help prevent skin rashes that arise from or aggravated by excess moisture
• Main ingredients are stearates, colloidal clay starch and talc
• These powders are usually only lightly perfumed and not perfumed at all
• These powders are free from boric acid
In the absence of any reproducible method of test for absence of grit the following method may be used
• Take 20g sample of material in a beaker
• Remove by overflow under a carefully controlled steady stream of water a larger portion of material
• The grit being heavier will remain in the beaker along with some powder
• Test the residue in beaker by rubbing between the finger and thumb for the presence of grit
• If grit is present then the given sample fails the test and vice versa
• Baby powder shall be free from glit colouring matter and may be buffered to control pH
Determination of matter insoluble in boiling water
PROCEDURE
• Weigh 1g of material(wet with rectified spirit)
• Add 200ml of water , boil , allow to settle • Filter (gooch crucible)
• Wash the residue with water dry at 105±2◦ c to aconstant mass
• Matter insoluble in boiling water present by mass=M¹/M *100
• M¹=mass in ‘g’ of the residue
• M=mass in ‘g’ of material taken for test DETERMINATION OF FINENESS: 2.5(75), 0.5(150)
• PROCEDURE
• 10g of material placed in the specified 15 sieve
• Wash with slow stream of running tap water
• Dry the sieve containing residue on steam bath
• Dry the residue to a constant mass at 105±2 c
• Material retained on the specified sieve present by mass=M¹/M*100
• M¹=mass in ‘g’ of the residue retained on the specified sieve
• M=mass in ‘g’ of the material taken for the test
DETERMINATION OF PH OF AQ. SUSPENSION:5.5‐8.0
• 10g of material in 150ml beaker
• Add freshly boiled and cooled water stir well
• Determine the PH of suspension using PH meter with in 5 mts
DETERMINATION OF MOISTURE AND VOLATILE MATTER:2.0
• PROCEDURE
• 5g of material dry in hot air oven at temp:105±2 c to constant mass
• Moisture and volatile matter percent by mass=M¹/M*100
TEST FOR ARSENIC:20
PROCEDURE
• 2g of sample incinerate about 2hrs for at 550 c
• Treat with mixture of 5ml conc sulphuric acid and add nitric acid
• Take to fumes on hot plate cool and again take to fumes with hydrofluoric acid • Cool and dissolve in water upto 100ml
• From above take 50ml
• Carry out test for arsenic
• Using for comparision stain obtained with 0.002mg ofAS2O3
BABY SOAP
• Baby soap shall possess good cleaning and lathering properties, is normally a mixture of alkali salts of long‐chain fatty acids.
• Triglycerides for example tallow, palm oil and coconut oil, provide the basic ‘fats’ from which the fatty acid mixture used for soap are derived
• The finished soap properties are primarily dependent on the mixture and ratio of triglycerides used.
• Tallow , for example, gives a much harder soap than coconut oil.
• Potassium soap are much softer than their sodium based counterparts , although, in practice, they are rarely used.
• The finished soap bar can be modified by the addition of other ingredients .
• Such as emollients opacifiers and chelating agent. DETERMINATION OF NICKEL: NILL
REAGENTS :NaoH, CONC. Hcl, dimethyl glyoxime soln, saturated bromine water.
PROCEDURE
ISOLATION OF METAL FROM SOAP
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50g of soap dissolve in hot water
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Add 40ml of conc. Hcl , heat until fatty acid layer separates
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Add 20g paraffin wax , stirr and allow to settle cool to room temp
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Remove wax cake, rinse with water , add rinsings to aq. Phase of evaporate to 60ml
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Make up to 100ml (test soln
DETERMINATION OF NICKEL CONTENT
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Take 50ml of aliquot (evaporate to 15ml)
Add 3ml bromine water (1mts)
Add 5ml liquor ammonia (ppt formed)
Filter, add 10ml dimethyl glyoxime soln and add 15‐
20ml 95%ethanol
• Kept for 5mts for development of colour
• The sample shall be considered to have passed the test if no pink colour develops
DETERMINATION OF IRON :10ppm
• REAGENTS :liquor ammonia, sulphuric acid, citric acid, thioglycollic acid, std iron soln, methyl red indicator
• PROCEDURE
• 5ml of test soln (metals are isolated from soap)
• Add 4ml citric acid add 0.02ml methyl red +liquor ammonia (yellow colour) •
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Add 3ml liq.ammonia in excess
Cool and add 3ml thioglycollic acid Make upto 25ml , filter
Measure absorbance at 540nm using water as blank
• Prepare calibration curve with std from soln and determine iron content of soap sample from it
DETERMINATION OF COPPER :3ppm REAGENTS :std copper soln, zinc dibenzyl di thiocarbonate +25ml sulphuric acid
PROCEDURE
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20ml aliquot+10ml zinc dibenzyl dithiocarbonate+25ml sulphuric acid shake for 1min
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Collect the lower ccl4 layer in a vf •
Wash the aq. Layer with ccl4 layer in a vf
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Make up the volume, absorbance at 435nm
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Prepare calibration curve with std copper soln •
Determine the copper content of soap sample from curve