shoreline tide Chapter 16 Chapter 16 wave crest Chapter 16 Chapter 16 trough wave base Chapter 16 Chapter 16 fetch breaker Chapter 16 Chapter 16 wave refraction longshore current Chapter 16 Chapter 16 rip current wave‐cut platform Chapter 16 Chapter 16 marine terrace headland Chapter 16 Chapter 16 beach backshore Chapter 16 Chapter 16 berm beach face Chapter 16 Chapter 16 Chapter 16 foreshore spit Chapter 16 baymouth bar tombolo Chapter 16 Chapter 16 barrier island nearshore sediment budget Chapter 16 Chapter 16 submergent coast emergent coast Chapter 16 Chapter 16 storm surge Chapter 16 The area between mean low tide and the highest level on land affected by storm waves. The regular fluctuation of the sea’s surface in response to the gravitational attraction of the Moon and Sun. An undulation on the surface of a body of water, resulting in the water surface rising and falling. The highest part of a wave. The lowest point between wave crests. The depth corresponding to about one‐half wavelength, below which water in unaffected by surface waves. The distance the wind blows over a continuous water surface. The bending of waves so that they move nearly parallel to the shoreline. A wave that steepens as it enters shallow water until its crest plunges forward. A current resulting from wave refraction found between the breaker zone and a beach that flows parallel to the shoreline. A narrow surface current that flows out to sea through the breaker zone. A beveled surface that slopes gently seaward; formed by the erosion and retreat of a sea cliff. A wavecut platform now above sea level. Part of a shoreline commonly bounded by cliffs that extends out into the sea or a lake. Any deposit of sediment extending landward from low tide to a change in topography or where permanent vegetation begins. A platform of sediment with a steeply sloping seaward face deposited by waves; some beaches have no berm, whereas others may have several. That part of a beach covered by water at high tide but exposed during low tide. That part of a beach that is usually dry, being water‐covered only by storm waves or especially high tides. The sloping area of a beach that is exposed to wave swash. A fingerlike projection of a beach into a body of water such as a bay. A spit that has grown until it closes off a bay from the open sea or lake. A type of spit that extends out from the shoreline and connects the mainland with an island. A long, narrow island of sand parallel to a shoreline but separated from the mainland by a lagoon. The balance between additions and losses of sediment in the nearshore zone. A coast along which sea level rises with respect to the land or the land subsides. A coast where the land has risen with respect to sea level. The surge of water onto a shoreline as a result of a bulge in the ocean’s surface beneath the eye of a hurricane and wind‐driven waves.
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