Thunder River to Deer Creek
Natural History Backpack
October 9-15, 2016
with Jack Pennington
CLASS INFORMATION AND SYLLABUS
Participants will actively share in the exploration of the
remarkable North Rim-Esplanade-Tapeats CreekColorado River-Deer Creek-Surprise Valley portion of
the Grand Canyon during a backpack from the rim
down the Bill Hall, Thunder River, and Deer Creek
Trails.
This class is designed as an in-depth look at Grand
Canyon ecology, biology and geology, and the
connection between them. The route followed by the
class travels through some of the most geologically
and biologically significant areas of the canyon, and
affords views and access to spots that are exceptional
illustrations of various principles and processes. We
will have an opportunity to explore life zones from the
rim to the river and creeks, including biologically
important seeps and springs. Geologically, we’ll see
everything from the very ancient inner canyon
basement rocks to the very modern sands and silts
deposited by the Colorado River and her tributaries.
This route also contains views of some layers of rock
that are only visible in a very few places in the canyon;
without these layers, the geologic story of Grand
Canyon cannot truly be completely understood.
Throughout the trip, we will discuss the interplay
between geology and biology in Grand Canyon.
The route is an excellent one in that it naturally takes
us on a progression from basic principles to more
complex ones during the course of the class, all the
while taking us to some incredibly beautiful places!
Biologic, ecologic and geologic concepts
discussed throughout the class include:
 The Life Zone concept and associated biotic
communities within the Grand Canyon.
 Introduction to many of the plants and
animals within each community and
description of their key features and natural
histories.
 Floral and faunal adaptations to Grand
Canyon’s desert environment.
 The natural history of bats/raptors/condors.
And their history, current status, and possible
futures in response to human activities.
 The importance of seeps and springs at Grand
Canyon.
 Symbiotic relationships between plants and
animals, using three plant/animal interactions
as examples and demonstrations of the
relationships’ complexity. Discussion of
ecological relationships that have been thrown
off balance due to human interference, the
consequences of these actions, and our
attempts to rectify these situations.
 The effects of Glen Canyon Dam on Grand
Canyon, including the political history leading
to construction of the dam, how we are
working to mitigate these effects, and plans
for future study and dam alternatives.
Particular attention paid to the humpback
chub, challenges to its survival, its population
trends, and relocation efforts to Shinumo and
Havasu creeks.
 The background, consequences, and future of
exotic and invasive species within Grand
Canyon. Overview of NPS efforts to combat
their spread and the effectiveness of these
efforts.
 Sedimentary rocks: how they form and how
this is reflected in texture, color and
composition
 Fossils and ancient environments
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Introduction to metamorphic and igneous
rocks: how they form and what this tells us
about the region
Geologic time—deep time, lost time and
unconformities
Grand Canyon through time: the environment
and geography from the Precambrian to the
Late Paleozoic and beyond.
Faults and folds: movement within the earth
Modern erosional processes: mass wasting,
flash floods and debris flows - widening and
deepening the canyon, formation of rapids
The Colorado River: modern processes and
environmental battles
Scouting and running rapids
Grand Canyon Geomorphology—shapes and
forms on the landscape
Grand Canyon Supergroup—the missing
years
Formation of the canyon—ideas and
controversies
DAY 1
We will meet at 11:00 am at the BLM field office in
Kanab, UT (669 S. Highway 89A, one block south of
the main light in town Google Map). We will spend
some time on introductions and logistics, gear and
class information (including an introduction to the
geology, ecology and geography of the region). This
will allow plenty of time for people to prepare and
gather any last-minute items they need. We’ll then
carpool to the Bill Hall Trailhead at Monument Point
where we will camp for the night. The hour long drive
follows forest service dirt roads, dusty but in good
condition.
DAY 2
Getting an early start, we will hike down the Bill Hall
Trail to Upper Tapeats Creek, approximately nine
miles and 4,800 feet vertical. Along the way, we will
pass through one of the most scenically stunning and
geologically significant and unusual landscapes in
Grand Canyon. From the Esplanade we will drop
down into Surprise Valley, an ancient landslide at the
base of the Redwall Limestone, and linger at Thunder
Spring, where thousands of gallons of clear spring
water gush straight from the limestone wall to form
Thunder River. Our camp will be on the banks of
Tapeats Creek, a lively, clear stream lined with
cottonwoods, willow, and watercress.
DAY 3
After a leisurely morning we will hike the remaining
distance along Tapeats Creek to the Colorado River,
approximately 2 miles and a mere 450 feet of vertical.
DAY 4
Today, we will make our way along the River Trail to
Deer Creek, a total distance of about 5 miles. There
several ups and downs on this stretch. The trail to
Deer Creek passes above the narrowest point along
the river, as well as affording us some incredible views
of interesting oddities of the Grand Canyon and the
Colorado (like Helicopter Eddy!). This trail involves
walking on large boulders, and making some very
steep climbs, but it is an obvious route or trail all the
way. There is composting toilet at the Deer Creek
camp.
DAY 5
Today we will layover at Deer Creek and explore this
remarkable side canyon. This tributary offers excellent
chances to discuss the ancient and historic Indians
who lived in the area and left ruins and rock art in the
canyon. We can wander down to the river to see Deer
Creek Falls plunging 140 feet over the Tapeats
Sandstone cliff at water’s edge. This is also a great
place to just relax in the shade of cottonwoods, hang
out on The Patio, or chill down in The Jacuzzi.
DAY 6
Today, we will begin our climb out of the canyon,
back through Surprise Valley and up to the Esplanade
once more. We will fill up with water at Deer Spring
and carry it up to our dry-camp for the night. We will
be traveling approximately 4 miles and around 2,800
vertical feet. The trail is very steep, rocky and unmaintained on the way out of Deer Creek and up to
Surprise Valley.
DAY 7
We will finish our hike out to Monument Point today.
We should be out of the Canyon around lunchtime
and we will try and gather back at Kanab for a
summary, lunch and farewells.
SPECIAL NOTES:
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Para-Cord -- A 20ft length of para-cord can
come in useful for the 15 ft scramble descent
on the Bill Hall Trail. More details at
www.nps.gov/grca
Toilets -- A composting toilet exists at Upper
Tapeats Campground and another at Deer
Creek. For our other camps, we must practice
the approved LNT protocols.
Water -- You must have at least 3 liters for
your daily consumption. In addition, bring
enough water containers for the last night’s
dry camp on the Esplanade. Leave some
water in your car for when you get out. Bring
a water purifier if you have one.
ABOUT THE INSTRUCTOR
Jack Pennington received his education in his native
England, earning a B.S. in geology from Queen Mary
College (London) and an M.S. in mineral exploration
and mining geology from Leicester University.
Geology has taken Jack across much of the globe. He
traveled to Africa where he worked as an exploration
geologist at the world famous Ashanti mine in Ghana,
and visited South Africa’s and Swaziland's rich mining
districts. He also studied the geology of the UK and
much of Europe. Jack came to Grand Canyon
National Park in 1994 working first as a volunteer
naturalist with the Division of Interpretation and then
as a restoration specialist (plants) with Grand Canyon’s
Science Center. He has been down the Colorado River
almost a dozen times each time assisting with science
research projects.
RECOMMENDED READING
Anderson, Michael F. Living at the Edge: Explorers,
Exploiters and Settlers of the Grand Canyon Region.
Coder, Christopher M. An Introduction to Grand Canyon
Prehistory.
Pocket Naturalist Field Guide to the Grand Canyon.
Price, L. Greer. An Introduction to Grand Canyon Geology.
Ranney, Wayne. Carving Grand Canyon.
Sadler, Christa. Life in Stone.
Whitney, Stephen. A Field Guide to the Grand Canyon.
These books and other interpretive aids can be
purchased at Grand Canyon Association bookstores
on the north and south rims, online at
www.grandcanyon.org, or by calling 800-858-2808.
GCA members receive a 15% discount.