It began with a Magnum
Robinson, Michael. "Grape Expectations: It began with a Magnum" The Royal Gazette [BDA] 29.04.16 Print
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It is April 1 and my wife and I are sitting with
friends of many years, Neil, Maria and Tara
Empson and their Marketing Director Phil
Langford. It is their firm, based in Milan that
supplies us with a major part of our Italian
portfolio. We are dining at Ribot, a restaurant
named after one of the greatest race-horses of
all time and whose winnings enabled his owner
to open this establishment renown for grilled
meats and Tuscan gastronomy. Neil tells me
that it was here that the very first Super Tuscan
wine was served.
Roman town of La Morra a pleasant female
voice announced that we had reached our
destination and put us right in front a pair of
large iron gates. As they opened we were
greeted by Manuel Marchetti who runs this
family winery founded in the 1850s. He assures
its continuation with his 24, 22 and 21 year old
offspring. How wonderful it was to see our old
friend and be introduced to his son.
During dinner a magnum of Marcarini Barolo
“Brunate” 2004 is opened and poured and as I
sniffed and sipped I admit my eyes misted over
with emotion as I realized that in a few days I
would be standing on the very soil and breathing
the very air that helped create this glorious wine.
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On Monday the 4 our GPS system decided to
cooperate (sadly not always the case over the
next two thousand miles or so of driving) and as
we climbed the steep hill up to the ancient
Marcarini Barolo Brunate
Now we are in an area no larger than Napa
Valley but there are over 900 Barolo producers
and 400 make Barbaresco. These hillside plots
are so steep that tractors or mechanical picking
machines cannot be used. With the average
landholding of only two hectares it could be said
that Piedmont is the Burgundy of Italy whereas
Tuscany with large estates is the Bordeaux.
I tell Manuel that I normally describe their
Brunate Vineyard as masculine and their La
Serra as feminine. He suggests that this may
offend some of our female associates and he
now prefers to refer to them as brother and
sister.
Anyway, we presently stock the
Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2011 that rates a
94/100 from James Suckling who writes “Rich
and flavourful with red plum, dried orange peel
and a chocolate finish. Full body, round tannins
and a savory finish”. I would add mentholated or
balsamic notes, incense, sage leaves, and
licorice with a sturdy yet velvety structure.
Manuel tells me that as Barolo ages it changes
from licorice to tobacco and finally that tell-tale
hint of tar so typical with these lovely wines.
$47.35
Marcarini Vineyards – La Morra, Italy
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After a tour of their 17
century cellars
connected to a medieval tower, we go to their
tasting room and taste as I also furiously
scribble notes, as there is always so much to
learn. We presently stock five of their wines and
due to the weaker Euro we have fortunately
made a substantial reduction in their prices.
Marcarini Barolo La Serra 2011 is also $47.35
and also garnered 94/100 from Suckling, but
here is what well-known critic Antonio Galloni
had to say “Classy and polished to the core.
Sweet flower notes meld into kirsch, red cherry
and raspberry. This is one of the more floral
lifted Barolos of the vintage while the structure
tends towards the lighter end of the spectrum.
Crushed flowers, mint and spices are all laced
into the super-expressive finish framed by
classically austere La Serra tannins”.
Dolcetto is the wine that many enjoy regularly in
this region and we have Marcarini Dolcetto
d’Alba Fontanazza 2012 for $17.90. No oak is
used in order to preserve the fresh, fruity, easyto-drink style and it offers lovely fruity sensations
and sweet spices.
Marcarini Barbera d’Alba
Until it was surpassed by Sangiovese the
Barbera grape was the most widely planted in
Italy. Our Marcarini Barbera d’Alba 2012 is a
very food-friendly wine that would honour red
meat dishes like lamb or beef and of course
pasta and pizza. $19.20.
Marcarini Dolcetto d’Alba Fontanazza
For those of you that enjoy a wine with dessert
or just like the sweet style of Moscato, we have
the real article here with Marcarini Moscato
d’Asti 2015 for $18.90.
I will finish by explaining why I often use the
word “friends” when referring to business
associates. Everyone mentioned today (with the
exception of Manuel’s young son) has wined
and dined in our home and loves Bermuda. In
fact everyone that we visited during a week in
Piedmont has done so.
Here is how it
happened.
About fifteen years ago Neil and Maria
organized a group of top Barolo producers to
tour the United States. They stopped off in
Bermuda and my wife was not daunted by the
prospect of entertaining them, as well as about
fifty of our Italian community in our home. I
remember Emilio Barbieri (of Little Venice Group
renown) stirring the risotto at our kitchen island
while other well known restaurant folks watched
the salmon in our oven and others monitored the
outside grill. We had a wonderful night of great
wines and food. Such is the life of a wine
merchant.
Marcarini Moscato d’Asti
La Morra Italy – The land of Barolo
Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at [email protected] or on
295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355)
and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available on line at