ANGELO SAMPLE ARTICLES Sample 1: THE FASCINATING WORLD OF CICHLID CARE So you decided to take care of cichlids? Good for you! Cichlids are some of the most fascinating fishes available in the aquarium hobby trade. They belong to the fish group which includes tilapias, damselfish, wrasses and surfperches. What are cichlids? Cichlid fishes belong to the Kingdom Animalia, where all animals are grouped. Phylum Chordata is the group of animals with backbones or vertebrae. Cichlids are of the Class Actinopterygii and the Order Perciformes, and the Suborder Labroidei. They are of the Family Cichlidae, which contains at least eight subfamilies, around two hundred and twenty genera, and more than a thousand species. Cichlid classification, due to their wide diversity, is far from being final. There are bound to be many changes in their taxonomical classification in the future. The Labroidei Suborder Cichlids are a wide diversity of colorful fishes with equally divergent body shapes, sizes and behavior. They are just as widespread in geographic location. With the large size of the cichlid family come the diversity in its species and the diversity of their importance and use by man. Numerous species are utilized as food, especially tilapia, and there are also several game fishes, such as those in the Cichla genus. Cichlids are also a family of many important ornamental aquarium fishes, which includes discus fishes, Oscars and angelfish. There are also many cichlids which are currently on the brink of extinction. In fact, this is the family that has the highest number of endangered species, most of which belong to the group of haplochromines. Cichlids have also been known to be nuisance species in areas where they have been artificially introduced. One notable example is the introduction of tilapia in the south part of the U.S. Evolutionarily, cichlids have been particularly noted to have speciated rapidly into different distinct forms that are very much related but are quite diverse in morphological terms. This rapid speciation occurred in the large lakes of Victoria, Edward, Malawi, and Tanganyika. The diversification in these Great Lakes in Africa is considered significant in the study of evolutionary speciation.Cichlids in the aquarium Most of the species seen in the aquarium fish trade originated from African rivers, Lakes Tanganyika and Malawi, the lakes in the African Rift Valley, the South American Amazon River, and Central America. . As tropical aquarium species, cichlids have proven to be popular because of certain characteristics that endear them to fish keepers. They are very alert and active, qualities important in aquarium fishes. In addition, there is a certain general rule in keeping tropical aquarium fishes that there should be a one gallon for every inch of adult residents in the tank. Although this is a broad generalization and is certainly not an all‐inclusive rule, it is particularly not applicable to cichlids. This rule keeps aquariums quite spacious, and is generally a good idea for most other fishes. The more space there is, the better for the fish. This is not true for cichlids because they do not school, unlike other tropical fishes. They tend to explore every inch of the aquarium and travel continuously. Thus, one can keep many more cichlids in one tank compared to other species. Another reason for the increased stocking density requirement for cichlids is that cichlids are much more territorial than other tropical fishes. Because of this behavior, keeping the tank full of fish will prevent individual cichlids from establishing their territories, due to the high density of fish in the tank. There are so many inhabitants in the tank that they cannot create their own individual spaces. In contrast, keeping just a few cichlids in a tank will enable them to have their own space and territory, making them extremely ferocious against invaders to the point of even killing each other for territorial rights. It is for this same reason that it is not recommended to keep many cichlids of the same species in the same tank. If there are a number of one species together with solitary individuals of another species, the majority will tend to bully the latter. It is therefore best to put single individuals of many species in one tank to prevent undue violence. This incidentally confers the benefit of having a tank with a beautiful array of different shapes, patterns, colors, and sizes of fishes, making for a very fascinating collection. This makes cichlids vastly more interesting than other aquarium fishes, even goldfish. Anatomy and appearance Cichlid body size encompasses a wide spectrum, with species that have a length of less than an inch such as the Neolamprologus multifasciatus, to species that can reach up to one meter, such as the genera of Cichla and Boulengerochromis. Body shape also varies extensively, as there are cichlid species which are very much compressed laterally, like Altolamprologus species, as well as elongated and cylinder‐shaped species like Teleogramma, Julidochromis, Teleocichla, Gobiocichla, and Crenicichla species. Species such as Pterophyllum are also compressed but triangular in shape. Disc‐shaped species include Symphysodon. In general, cichlids are medium sized, ovate and only slightly compressed laterally. In terms of morphology, ecology and behavior, they closely resemble sunfishes from North America. Certain features distinguish cichlids from other members of the Labroidei Suborder. These include: each side of the forehead having only one nostril; lacking a bony shelf at the lower side of the orbit; the organ of the lateral line having two sections (the first being on the flank’s upper half and the other located along the flank’s midline up to the tail base), with the exception of the genera Gobiocichla and Teleogramma; an otolith that is shaped distinctly; and the small intestine having its exit on the stomach’s left side instead of the right. Cichlids are distinguished from other groups of fishes by the presence of a particular fusion of the lower bones of the pharynx into a single structure that can serve as a second jaw for processing food. This pharyngeal jaw, which is equipped with pharyngeal teeth or “throat teeth,” is enabled to function through a set of complex muscles, which assist the mandibles or true jaws with the mastication and mashing of food items and allows for the division of work between the two. This is part of the capacity of cichlids that make them efficient in capturing food. Their diet consists of a wide range of prey, which could be one good reason for their successful survival and diversity in species and range. Taxonomical classification At least eight cichlid subfamilies have been presently recognized (some recognize ten). These eight subfamilies are Cichlastomatinae, Astronotinae, Etroplinae, Cichlinae, Geophaginae, Retroculinae, Pseudocrenilabrinae, and Heterochromidinae. Just like the subfamilies, the number and classification of genera are not yet definite. One source has pegged it into 160 genera, and Africa alone actually has more than a thousand species already. What’s more, new species are being discovered regularly. Similarly, there is as yet no existing thorough classification system of designating species within monophyletic generic groups. There are still many existing problems with cichlid classification. For example, Heterochromis, an African genus, has been controversial in that it has been phylogenetically assigned to New World cichlids, although they are extant in the Old World, particularly Africa. Other studies disagreed with such classification. One important controversy in classifying cichlids is the identification of the presumed ancestor common to all the species of the Lake Victoria super flock. Another problem concerns the ancestral lineage or lineages of cichlids in Tanganyika Lake. So far, the cichlid family as a whole is still considered monophyletic, although there have been differences in generic classification when based on morphological characteristics as compared to genetic analyses.Dentition is a major aspect of morphology that has revolutionized cichlid classification. The problem with this, however, is that the shape of teeth is influenced by wear and tear, and therefore affects reliability. A better classification that is also used with other organisms is the sequencing of genomes and other related technological methods. In summary, there is still a lot of work to be done regarding cichlid classification and taxonomy, not to mention other related genetic and cladistic studies which will contribute to the overall resolution of cichlid classification. Habitats and range of species Among non‐Ostariophysians (a Superorder group of fishes), cichlids have the most freshwaterdwelling species in the world. Cichlid species are most numerous in South America and Africa. Africa has an estimated number of species in the range of 1,600. In Central America and in Mexico, going as far as southern Texas in Rio Grande, there are about 120 recognized species. Aside from this exception, there are no native cichlid species in North America, although there are established feral populations in Florida. Tilapia mariae caught in Australian waters. This species is originally African, but it has been established in Australia as an exotic invasive species. As is the case with most Madagascan species, Madagascar showcases distinct species different from the rest of the world, although related distantly to species in mainland Africa. These species include Ptychochromoides, Ptychochromis, Paretroplus, Paratilapia, and Oxylapia. In Asia, native species are absent except for a few exceptions. In Syria, Lebanon and Israel, species of the genera Astatotilapia, Oreochromis, Tilapia, as well as Tristramella are found. There is also one species in Iran, which is of the Iranocichla genus, and three species in India as well as Sri Lanka, of the genus Etroplus. There are exotic feral populations found in Japan. In the country of Trinidad & Tobago, there are a few extant native species that belong to genera found widely in mainland South America. Aside from this, there are only three Nandopsis species which come from the Caribbean Antilles, particularly Hispaniola and Cuba.There are no native cichlids in Australia, Antarctica and Europe. However, Australia has its own exotic feral populations. Most cichlid species are only found at depths that are relatively shallow. Some exceptions include Pallidochromis and Alticorpus species in Malawi Lake, which is found 490 feet (or 150 m.) below the surface. There is also the blind and non‐pigmented Lamprologus lethops of the River Congo, which is speculated to reach up to 520 feet (or 160 m.) below the water surface. Although cichlids are generally freshwater species, some have been found in saltwater and brackish waters and environments. There are species which tolerate brackish waters for varied periods, and there are those who alternate between saltwater and freshwater. Some species even basically inhabit saltwater environments. Cichlasoma urophthalmus is a cichlid that is well adapted to both the freshwater marsh environment as well as the brackish or mangrove swamp. It also breeds in the saltwater mangrove belts circling barrier islands. Many cichlid species can tolerate coastlines of brackish water between rivers. Examples include Oreochromis, Sarotherodon, and Tilapia species, which are euryhaline (capable of living in waters having a wide array of saline concentrations). In general, however, cichlids are not saltwater fishes. Notable exceptions primarily inhabiting brackish and saltwater areas include Sarotherodon melanotheron, Etroplus suratensis and Etroplus maculates. But the farthest extreme that cichlids have been found to inhabit is hypersaline lake environments with warm temperatures. Species of the genus Danakila and Alcolapia are found in this kind of habitat. Abaeded Lake, a crater lake in Eritrea, East Africa harbors the only known population of Danakila dinicolai, which has water temperatures in the range of 84‐113 degrees Fahrenheit (29‐45 degrees Celsius). Biogeography of cichlids Cichlids in general have not colonized any other oceanic island aside from Cuban and Hispaniolan species. Their distribution has primarily been Gondwanan. In biogeographical terms, this means that they evolved predominantly on the south of the equator. That is, their distribution is seen mainly on the landmasses of South America, Africa, Madagascar, and India. The theory of vicariance fits perfectly with the biogeographical distribution of extant cichlid groups, in contrast to the hypothesis of dispersal. The latter theory requires that cichlid ancestors negotiate thousands of miles in the open ocean separating Madagascar and India, without being able to colonize any other island or even getting to cross to Africa through the channel aperture of the Mozambique passage. And there is the other matter of Madagascan cichlids being almost entirely freshwater species, making them unsuitable for such migration. Cichlid CareAquarium species The year 1945 marked the beginning of the increasing popularity of cichlids in the aquarium fish trade. A lot of aquarium cichlid species are either small or medium in size, easily fed with a wide range of pet fish food preparations, readily breed in captivity, and readily care for their brood even in captive conditions. These qualities make them favored pets. Hobbyists usually classify the popular species of aquarium cichlids into three major categories: African cichlids, American cichlids and Asian cichlids. African cichlids consist of tilapia, the socalled Rift Valley species, and other African species. The Rift Valley species comprise four groups that are based on their geographical localities, i.e. Lake Victoria species, Lake Tanganyika species, Lake Malawi species, and lastly Lake Rudolph species and other cichlids of the area. Red Zebra, male. This aquarium cichlid species descended from Lake Malawi cichlid ancestors American cichlids have four categories as well: the Large cichlid species such as the Heroines and Eartheaters; the convicts; dwarfs; and other species, from which two of the most popular cichlids – the Discus and the Angelfish – come from. Pterophyllum scalare, is the scientific name of the angelfish, which is the most familiar and common cichlid species in the aquarium hobby trade. It is a native of South America, particularly the Amazon. Other species that are equally popular and readily obtained in pet shops are the Astronotus ocellatus, commonly known as the Oscar; Archocentrus nigrofasciatus or the convict cichlid; and of course, the aforementioned Symphysodon spp., the discus. Pterophylllum scalare, the common angelfish How to buy healthy cichlids Many beginners do not have a clue as to the first thing required in buying cichlids. They usually simply purchase the fishes at the nearest and most convenient pet store. Sad to say, not all pets stores are created equal, and being nearest does not constitute a valid qualification to be a source of healthy cichlid pets. Experienced fish hobbyists will always advise the amateur that taking time to find a better quality fish stock and pet store will always be worth one’s while in the long haul. It is actually the more economical way of obtaining pet fishes too, as there is a better assurance that the cichlids will be in good overall condition. This is true for both online and actual ‘offline’ pet stores. With online stores, time must also be invested in seeking out reputable and worthwhile sites. For actual, physical pet stores, it is ideal to make numerous trips to the shop and not simply a single visit. Try to assess the overall condition of the surroundings, if the tanks and general environment are kept clean and free from possible sources of disease. Store environment One thing to look for in a pet store is the presence of quarantine tanks. This is where new stocks as well as diseased individuals are kept separately in order to contain diseases and prevent widespread infections. Sick fishes should be placed in separate tanks away from the rest of the healthy populations. If there are quarantine tanks in a shop, this should be considered a favorable indication that the store owner is pro‐active in keeping the fishes healthy and disease‐free. After assessing the general environment, assess the cichlids carefully for any signs of stress or illnesses. One can determine this in many ways. First check the overall condition of the fishes. Are they alert? Are they active? Do they look timid or depressed? Check if they are swimming properly or if there is a sickly tilt to their orientation. Healthy fishes should stay upright in the water and swim with energy and negotiate the water laterally. If the fins are flat and limp, it is also a sure sign that the fish is diseased or stressed. Refrain also from purchasing fishes that are lingering on the water surface, as if they do not have enough oxygen to breathe. Fish condition After examining the overall condition, check for specific signs of infection or diseases. The presence of white spots on the body may indicate parasitic or fungal infection. The latter is especially true is the white spots are cotton‐like and are located on open wounds. Reddening in some areas may also indicate disease, including ripped, ragged or damaged fins. These signs may also indicate fighting among the fishes as well as the occurrence of bullying in the tank. A healthy appetite is a good sign in any fish. Try to ask the pet store about their feeding schedule, and visit at that time in order to able to observe the cichlids’ feeding behavior. Information gathering For online fish shops, peruse their site thoroughly and gather all information possible. Call or email them; reputable online stores will be more than happy to accommodate inquiries because it means business for them. Make a checklist of online shops and tick them off from the shortlist if they do not have any proper customer support. Prior to visiting an actual, offline pet store, perform some basic research regarding the health and proper care of cichlids. Study as much as possible the particular species one is interested in. There is a lot of information on the internet on cichlids, even for species which are not too common or popular. Even libraries will most likely have books or information about cichlids, especially since cichlids are very popular pet fishes. Once in the store, ask pertinent questions, and do not let any stone be left unturned. Taking care of cichlids properly is highly dependent on knowing every possible helpful information one can gather about their living requirements. Also, test the store owner or representative by asking key questions regarding basic care of cichlids, and compare their answers with the online research garnered. If the store employee does not seem to know cichlid stuff, ask for the owner or manager, or the staff who takes care of the cichlid section. Cichlid ecology Feeding A lot of cichlid species are basically herbivorous, subsisting on plants or algae. For species such as these, invertebrates form a small segment of their diets.Detritivore cichlids are those which consume any and every kind of organic material. Tilapia, Sarotherodon and Oreochromis species are tilapiines included in this group. Cichlid species that are predatory are predominantly carnivorous. There are generalists and specialists. The former, an example of which is Pterophyllum species, eats various small animals that include insect larvae and fish. Specialized species include those which eat only snails or sponges, or purely eat fish. There are strange species as well which eat only parts of other fishes, particularly their fins and scales. This behavior is called lepidophagy, and is exhibited by Genyochromis, Perissodus, Plecodus, Docimodus evelynae, and Corematodus species. Feeding strategies in the wild Several feeding strategies are employed by cichlids. There are species such as Crenicichla which employ stealth by concealing themselves and lunging at small fishes that pass by. In contrast, there are those who openly pursue their prey, such as Rhamphochromis. Some cichlids which eat the young or the eggs of other fishes (a practice called paedophagy or young‐eating) sometimes employ unusual strategies for acquiring their food. Caprichromis, for example, sometimes ram themselves into the heads of fishes that are mouth‐brooding in order to make them disgorge the young inside their mouths. Parachromis and Nimbochromis cichlids have the habit of playing dead and motionless in the water, in order to lure small fish to them. The varied ways in which cichlids acquire their food has made them adaptable to many different habitats. Furthermore, the pharyngeal teeth present in cichlids provide them with many other available feeding strategies, opening up new niches for them. Pharyngeal teeth are able to crush prey while the true jaws capture and hold the food. Bumblebee cichlid Pseudotropheus crabro, who feeds exclusively on the parasites of the Bagrus meridionalis catfish Aquarium feedingGiven the wide variety of species of cichlids, which come from many types of habitats and environmental conditions, it is quite difficult to generalize feeding principles that will apply to the entire group. Generally, however, cichlids have a big appetite and feed readily. Omnivores The majority of cichlids are omnivorous, feeding on a wide variety of invertebrates such as worms, crustaceans and insects, while also consuming plant matter. In an aquarium setting, omnivorous species must be given a diet consisting of a mix of flake fish food, live food as well as vegetable matter. Examples of omnivorous species are many West African cichlids, cichlasomines, Heros spp., and angelfish. Carnivores Carnivorous species of cichlids are predators, specializing in a diet of other fish species. In an aquarium setting, they will do this by consuming other occupants in the tank. Carnivores enjoy live fish as food, as well as crustaceans, insects and their larvae, and worms. Some individuals also eat large flakes, food tablets and fish pellets. Carnivorous cichlids include pike cichlids (Crenicichla spp.), Cyphotilapia spp. and Haplochromines. Herbivores Herbivores feed exclusively on plants, and as a result aquarium occupants love to munch on aquarium plants. Pellets and flakes that are composed of plant matter are suitable for these cichlids. They will also readily accept vegetables. Some of the Tilapia spp. are herbivorous. Mbunas of Lake Malawi as well as Tropheus spp. of Lake Tanganyika are also herbivorous. They feed on algae which grow on rocks, which incidentally, also harbor microorganisms and crustaceans which are called Aufwuchs. Thus, they may be considered omnivorous. Diet considerations The proper kind of foods is essential when keeping cichlids, especially since cichlid colorations are what makes them very attractive and popular. These body colors are very much affected by what food they eat. Thus, living on incorrect foods or foods in improper amounts will prevent them from showing their full spectacular range of colors. Having said this, it should then be obvious that not all fish foods are appropriate for cichlids. In addition, food items that have fat from mammals should be avoided, and high‐protein diets should be regulated.It should also be kept in mind that once a hobbyist decides to change the cichlids’ accustomed food to another kind or brand, this should be done gradually and not abruptly to avoid untoward side effects in the fish. Spirulina A type of blue‐green nutritious algae called Spirulina is a good source of micronutrients, and has long been cultivated historically since ancient times. There is an abundance of spirulina in Lake Malawi. Fish food preparations that contain this nutritious supplement are highly recommended, for cichlids will benefit much from the vitamins and minerals present in spirulina. Home‐made, specialized food preparations Making a homemade recipe of cichlid foods can be quite rewarding if the keeper has an inclination for it. This could be a lot cheaper and at the same time just as nutritious as or even more nutritious than commercial preparations. Below are some recipes that can be made by the cichlid aquarist. Shrimp mix This is highly recommended by aquarists and breeders in Europe. It is good for African cichlid species and is claimed to improve coloration, fish size and proper maturity. Some keepers use it as the main food while others just use it to supplement high quality fish flakes. This is a very highly nutritious food preparation, and therefore it should be fed to fish only once daily at most. The ingredients are as follows: two pounds whole shrimps, frozen two pounds green peas, frozen 100 grams powdered gelatin (vegetable type for easier digestibility) two teaspoons pure spirulina powder ten drops multivitamins, liquid preparation Preparation procedure: Partially thaw peas and shrimps. Grind them in a blender until they become a homogenous paste. Put the paste in a spacious bowl, and put the multivitamin liquid and spirulina into it. Stir well. Cook the gelatin into a homogenous sticky mass, ensuring that no lumps form, for these lumps are a health hazard to juvenile fish. Add the paste into the gelatin while it is still warm and mix them completely. Keep the gelatin warm under a low fire to ensure a good mix. Pour the resulting mixture into a mold, such as ice cube trays or any similar material. Cool the mixture inside the refrigerator for a few hours. Upon hardening, cut the mass into convenient sizes and put them in zip lock plastic containers. Freeze them and thaw necessary amounts for feeding. Spirulina‐agar mix This recipe is composed of spirulina powder as well as agar, and is especially favorable for fry. Preparation procedure: The two components are mixed together while still dry. Three parts of spirulina with one part agar is the proper combination. Boiling water is added, all the while stirring the mixture into a thick and smooth paste. Be conscious of stirring it properly to prevent the agar from becoming lumpy. Put the mixture into ziplock freezer containers before it has a chance to set. Upon feeding time, cut the preparation into small cubes. In this recipe, gelatin is not suitable to use because it will turn the mixture into a rubbery mass, preventing the young fishes from properly digesting the mix. Agar makes the preparation easier to consume and softer. Addition of various vegetables can be experimented on as well, such as spinach. Fish Food Recipe #3 Gather vegetables and fruits of any variety. These could include green leafy vegetables, broccoli, carrots, apples, oranges, etc. Mix and grind them together in a food processor or blender. Add crab legs and shrimp including their shells. Smelt is good too. Just keep in mind not to include fishes that have a high oil content, such as mackerels or herrings. Blend the entire mixture finely into a homogenous mass. Include any tablet or liquid multivitamins. Add a bit of liquid should the mixture become too thick. Water, clam juice, sweet potato juice, and carrot juice are suitable for this purpose. The latter two are especially favorable because they also contain vitamins. Selcon or Selco would also be a fine addition to the mixture. By this time it should be like mud in terms of consistency. Bring water to a boil (around 150 ml) and then add an equal amount of gelatin (the unflavored variety) Mix this gelatin solution with the mixture, then pour on a mold. After cooling, freeze it. Cut up the frozen block into bite‐sized pieces and then put them in ziplocks. Use as needed.Garlic Fish Food for treating parasites Although there are commercial preparations for treating intestinal parasites, this homemade recipe will do the job equally well. Ingredients: Fillets of catfish or Pollack baby vegetable commercial food shrimp cloves of garlic liquid vitamins Procedure: Except for the garlic, puree the ingredients together in a food processor or blender. Mince the garlic and include 0.1% of it for every pound of weight. Flatten the resulting mass and put it into a ziplock. Freeze it. For feeding, just scrape the mass with a knife into small slivers. It should only be used as a supplementary food, especially as a routine preventive anti‐parasite medication or as treatment. Feeding for enhancement and control of coloration Cichlid coloration is dictated by the nervous and endocrine systems, although the aquarium hobby industry has also utilized pigments in fish diets as well as other methods to enhance cichlid colors. The pituitary body is responsible for secreting hormones that control and direct pigment storage and production throughout the lifespan of the fish, particularly upon maturity. As maturity is initiated, production as well as storage of these pigments is increased. There are many different kinds of pigments. Carotenoids are orange and red, while xanthophylls are colored yellow. Brown and black pigments are melanin, which are produced by melanocyte cells. Phycocyanin is blue. This latter pigment is obtained from the blue‐green pigmented algae. And to produce green colors, cells that have xanthophylls are overlaid with cells having phycocyanin. While fish can produce their own pigments, some pigments are also acquired through their diet. These include xanthophylls and carotenoids, which cannot be produced by the fish on their own. Pseudotropheus demasoni. Spirulina, which comes from algae, is a dietary supplement that enhances blue colors. Many fish diets contain natural pigment sources. Other natural pigment sources are additionally present in special fish foods that are especially formulated to enhance coloration. Invertebrates, which are commonly included in cichlid diets, contain astaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment. In commercial fish foods, this is provided by their krill and shrimp ingredients as well as the salmon meal ingredients. Alternately, pure natural astaxanthin, and even synthetic forms like canthaxanthin are also included in the feed formulation. Xanthophylls, the pigment that gives off the yellow color in cichlids, can be found in dried eggs and corn gluten meals. Marigold petals are also utilized as a xanthophyll source. Spirulina is a good source of phycocyanin, found in blue‐green pigmented algae. Labeotropheus trewavasae can maintain its red‐orange coloration brilliantly if its diet is rich in carotenoids. Non‐dietary methods of enhancing coloration Aside from the dietary supplementation of pigments, cichlids and other aquarium species are also painted and dyed, as well as fed certain hormones to stimulate enhance coloration.Colorless fishes have been painted to attract higher prices and demand. Although the neon paints used are non‐toxic to the fish, the additional stress obtained from extra handling and fish painting/dyeing predisposes the fishes to disease and aggravates underlying disease conditions or subclinical infections. Such fishes usually go down with fungal infections and Ich. Unfortunately for the buyers of such fishes, in addition to having bought weaker fishes, these paints and dyes are ultimately shed off, returning the fishes to their original colorless state. A more harmful method involves feeding hormones to stimulate an earlier (but false) maturity in fishes, so that they will display the mature colors of older individuals. Feeding testosterones allows for the premature production and storage of color pigments in chromatophore cells, letting immature fish express adult coloration. Unfortunately, fishes that are given hormones become all males, and if given uncontrollably, also makes them sterile. Because they are fed exogenous hormones, the body stops producing these hormones internally, and thus, when the hormones are withdrawn from the food, coloration also ceases. The use of testosterone is, however, justified in the commercial production of tilapia for human food. Growers of tilapia need testosterone because these fishes usually reach maturity before they have reached harvestable sizes. Tilapia batches grown naturally without testosterone usually end up stunted and unevenly sized. And once they reach maturity, the resources obtained from the feeds are used to produce gametes instead of contributing to the production of more flesh. Turning the tilapia stocks into males exclusively also has another advantage: males grow larger and faster. Testosterone is currently being given by tilapia farmers to juvenile fishes. On ornamental fish such as cichlids, one cannot tell whether a given fish being sold has been fed a hormone‐containing diet. All one can do is to become vigilant and cross his fingers. If the coloration of the cichlid in question seems too good to be true, it would be safe to assume and wise to suspect that something is “fishy,” pun intended. The quality of tank water also influences cichlid coloration, because low quality and dirty water causes more stress to the fishes, which in turn causes a dulling of their colors. Providing a good biological filter as well as frequent water changes will enhance cichlid colors and promote their health as well. Advanced aquarists may try experimenting with homemade diets specifically aimed to enhance coloration. It may be well to use salmon fillets as protein sources instead of shrimps or other sources, because salmon fishes are good carotenoid sources which enhance the red and orange colors of cichlids. In addition, salmon also provide all the essential amino acids needed by cichlids, and it provides more lipids as well, which promote better protein utilization. And as previously mentioned, the addition of spirulina will enhance the blue colors. In summary, paints, dyes and hormones are not ideal for use in enhancing cichlid coloration. Aim instead in giving a good diet which consists of a variety of feed items that provide all the nutrient requirements of cichlids, including those that provide bright and brilliant colors. The addition of pigments, along with proper care and management, will further promote vivid coloration. Reproduction Mating behavior Among cichlid species, there are monogamous as well as polygamous breeders. Brooding methods do not wholly correspond to their mating behavior. For instance, monogamous species are not generally known for being mouth brooders, but certain genera are, particularly Tanganicodus, Spathodus, Gymnogeophagus, and Chromidotilapia. Contrastingly, most cave brooders and open brooders exhibit polygamy. Pelvicachromis, Nannacara, Lamprologus, and Apistogramma are notable examples. Cichlids exhibit monogamy, polygyny, polyandry, and agamy. Monogamy is the pairing type in which the male and female stay together even after having spawned. In polygyny, one male mates with many females, while in polyandry, the opposite is true. This latter type is quite rare. In agamous relationships, there is no bond formed at all. They separate from each other immediately after spawning. Parenting and Brooding There are six types of family bonds seen in cichlids. These include the following: Parental or nuclear families. This is a setup wherein the male and the female share parenting duties equally. In these species, it is generally hard to differentiate the male from the female. Nuclear families are also most often found in monogamous species and open brooders (which is discussed later), but as with every rule, however, there are also exceptions. Matriarchal–patriarchal families. In this setup, the male performs the duty of defending the territory, while the female takes care of her brood. Once the fry are already free‐swimming, parenting them becomes the task of both the male and the female. This family bond is usually seen in monogamous species and open brooders. Differences in color and form are seen in different sexes. Matriarchal–patriarchal or harem family. In this type, the male has to defend a larger territory because of several spawning sites with numerous females. The females take care of their own brood, while the male is polygynous. This form is usually seen in cave brooders. There is a clear dimorphism between the sexes. Matriarchal family. Here, there are no bonds formed between the male and the female, the relationship being agamous. It is the female who takes on the parenting role, and the method is usually observed in ovophile mouth brooders (also to be discussed later). Patriarchal family. In patriarchal setups, the relationship is also agamous, but it is the male that takes on the parenting duties, carrying the eggs and the fry. The mouth brooding Sarotherodon melanotherow is the only true patriarchal species known. Sexual dimorphism is absent. Extended family. Here, both the parents as well as older offspring from previous spawns collectively care for the young. This type of setup is observed in the Lake Tanganyika cave brooding species, including the species in the genera Neolamprologus as well as Julidochromis. Every cichlid species exhibits some level of care for their larvae and eggs, and often nurture their young weeks or months after hatching. Many species also care for their brood communally. In communal brooding, several pairs of monogamous species pool their resources and take care of their young as a group in a heterogenous school. This behavior is seen in Tilapia rendalii, Etroplus suratensis and Amphilophus citrinellus. Some species provide nourishment to their young by giving them mucous gland secretions from their skin. Symphysodon discus, Uaru spp., Etroplus spp. and Amphilophus spp. employ this technique. Almost all cichlid species lay eggs on some kind of substrate, whether they be sand, plants or rocks. There are two general brooding types – Open and Shelter Brooding. Shelter brooding is further subdivided into cavity or cave brooding and mouth brooding. Open brooding is also known as substrate brooding, while cave or secretive brooding is also called guarding of speleophils. There are two further types of mouth brooding – ovophile mouth brooding and larvophile mouth brooding. Open brooders Open/substrate brooders lay eggs openly on leaves, logs, sand, or rocks. There can be as many as ten thousand small eggs in a single laying, which are usually clumped together. Although males and females perform different roles in brooding, both of them are capable and do perform the entire gamut of parent brooding behavior. Usually, however, it is the male which protects the territory from intruding elements, while is the female that fans water on the eggs in order to remove infertile eggs, as well as lead the fry during foraging time. There is a clear dichromatism and dimorphism between the sexes. Among open brooding species of cichlids, notable ones include most Cichlasoma species, Anomalochromis thomasi, Symphysodon spp. and Pterophyllum spp. Parachromis managuense is an open brooder. In this captive aquarium setting, it is seen guarding its egg clutch Shelter brooding There are fewer eggs laid by shelter brooders compared to open brooders. There are usually no more than three hundred eggs, which are more colorful and larger. Shelter brooders usually have a marked difference in the size and coloration of males and females. Males are usually larger and have more striking colors. Cave brooders Cichlids which employ this brooding system deposit eggs in holes, crevices, caves, or even unoccupied shells of mollusks. The eggs are usually attached to the chamber’s roof. Many Apistogramma, Archocentrus, Pelvicachromis, Julidochromis, and Neolamprologus species are secretive cave brooders. Parents employing the two forms of brooding mentioned above help their fry in finding food. Cichlid species of the New World can do fin‐digging and leaf‐turning to accomplish this end. Parents and offspring also have an array of communication methods which they use with each other. These communication methods are seen both in wild as well as captive populations. These may involve flicking of the pelvic fins and shaking. Parents also show increased aggressiveness towards other fishes during brooding. Mouth brooders Mouth brooding species take eggs or fry in their mouth at some stage during the brooding process. Mouth brooders: Ovophile mouth broodersThe term ovophile means egg‐loving. The males create a pit in their territory to prepare a place for the females to lay their eggs. Cichlids employing this brooding method use their mouths to incubate the eggs. The female sucks the eggs into her mouth. They retain the fry in their mouths for many weeks after hatching, until the fry are able to take care of themselves. Many of the species in the lakes of Victoria, Tanganyika and Malawi are ovophile mouth brooders, in the genera Tropheus, Pseudotropheus and Maylandia. Geophagus steindachneri, a South American species, is an ovophile mouth brooder. Haplochromis and Aulonocara also employ this method. There are marked differences in coloration between the males and females, which play a role in reproduction. The males’ oval and colored marks on their anal fins are called egg dummies or egg spots. Once the female has already laid her eggs and has sucked them orally, she starts to see the egg dummies on the male’s anal fin. She starts to mistake these egg spots as actual eggs and starts to suck them up too, thinking that they are also her eggs. At this point, the male then starts to release his sperm, which get sucked into the female’s mouth and consequently fertilizes her previously unfertilized eggs. Mouth brooders: Larvophile mouth brooders Larvophile is a word that means larva‐loving. Cichlid species employing this brooding method may lay eggs the way open and cave brooders do. The difference is that it is only once the eggs hatch that the females take the larvae into their mouths for care and protection. Sometimes, once the fry get released from the mother’s mouth, parental care ceases. Examples of larvophile mouth brooders include some populations of Geophagus altifrons and some species of Satanoperca, Gymnogeophagus and Aequidens. Mouth brooding, whether in ovophilic and larvophilic species, is most often employed by the females. Chromidotilapia guentheri; some Sarotherodon species (such as in S. melanotheron); some Aequidens species; and some eretmodine species, such as Tanganicodus, Eretmodus and Spathodus are exceptions to this, because the males in these species also mouth brood their fry. Paternal mouth brooding seems to be an independently evolved method in numerous African cichlid groups. Cyphotilapia frontosa female mouth brooding her young, seen at the aperture of her mouth Hybrids and selective breeding Some species of cichlids have been observed both in captivity and the wild to breed readily with related cichlid species . These hybrids have been particularly exploited in the aquaculture industry as well as the pet aquarium trade. For instance, aquaculturists have time and again preferred the hybrid tilapia red strain because it grows rapidly. Tilapia hybrids have been extensively used to produce a strictly male population in the pond for the purpose of controlling stocking density and preventing reproduction. Aquarium hybrids For aquarium species, blood parrot hybrid cichlids are probably the most commonly available cichlid hybrids. It consists of a cross of multiple species, especially those coming from the Amphilopus genus. Its mouth is beaked, it has an abnormally shaped spine, and it sometimes lacks a caudal fin. Blood parrot hybrids having the latter feature have earned the added prefix of “love heart” on their names, due to their heart–shaped appearance. Blood parrot hybrids have sparked controversy among hobbyists, with some calling them Frankensteinian fish monsters. Flowerhorn cichlids are another popular cichlid hybrid in Asia since 2001 up to the latter part of 2003. It has become a popular good luck charm. Unfortunately, its popularity waned the following year, and they invaded canals and rivers in Singapore and Malaysia after their owners disposed of them there. These feral populations have become a serious threat to endemic fish populations in these ecosystems. Ornamental cichlids have been developed through selective breeding of wild cichlid species. Discus and angelfish are the species most subjected to these intensive breeding programs. Such programs are aimed at affecting finnage and coloration through mutation.Other species, such as convict cichlids, Pelvicachromis pulcher and oscars have been developed or mutated for albinism, leucism and xanthochromism. In these, pigment mutations have been both recessive and dominant. An example of the former is leucism in convicts, while an example of the latter has been seen in Oreochromis niloticus niloticus. Leucism in a long‐finned Astronotus ocellatus Oscar Artificial selective breeding sometimes have unfortunate side effects, such as problems in fertility and health in Mikrogeophagus ramirezi hybrids. Abnormalities in form are also expected in inbreeding programs. An example of this may be found in abnormal angelfish phenotypes. Behavior Part of the popularity of cichlids as aquarium pets stem from their interactive nature. Keepers sometimes observe recognition by cichlids of their owners. At least one keeper has reported that his cichlid pets hide whenever a stranger is around, even to the point of claiming that the fishes can differentiate the footsteps of their owners from those of strangers. Due to the diversity of species in the cichlid family, it is equally difficult to generalize their behavior. Having said this, however, it is a general characteristic of cichlids to have aggressive tendencies, which is usually attributed to their highly evolved behavior of caring for their brood or young. Many species are shoaling or swarming species, and are recommended to be kept in multiple numbers. Tank composition and activity Although cichlid fishes can be mixed with other fishes in the aquarium tank, they do tend to eat fishes that are smaller in size. As with everything, there are always exceptions, and yes, conversely, there are also species which are quite timid, such as Julidochromis spp. and Apistogramma spp. In these instances, it is best to use dither fishes to stimulate activity in these timid pets. Dither fishesDither fishes are aquarium fish of no particular group that are used by aquarists to stimulate innately timid cichlids into more activity. When these dither fishes swim on top of the aquarium tank, the shy and timid cichlids take this as a sign that no predators are present, and thus they start relaxing and begin venturing out and slowly exploring. Cichlids have this ability to gauge the security of the their surroundings through the behavior of other fishes. Fish species that school, particularly some tetra fishes, barbs and Danio spp. are good species to use as dither fish. Coloration Coloration also plays a role in attracting mates and providing camouflage as protection from danger or in stealth hunting. Mature cichlid males usually have brilliant colors. The autonomic nervous system is in charge of rapidly changing cichlid coloration as a response to the presence of predators or the aggressiveness of tank mates. Cichlids can be quite rapid in producing these color changes. The yellow coloration of this Labidochromis caeruleus is produced by chromatophore cells with xanthophyll pigments Chromatophores are special cells which contain color pigments. These cells are found beneath fish scales. They are also branched to allow the granules of pigment to move, letting them aggregate or disperse as needed. Chromatophores are responsible for the rapid and variable color changes observed in cichlids. In addition, iridophores are special chromatophore cells that contain purine crystals that are colorless. These crystals do not move inside the iridophores, but are instead stacked so as to provide a surface for reflection and as a structural or base coloration in fish. The silver sheen found in fishes, particularly in pelagic species, are due to iridophore cells. They can reflect light, providing counter shading in fish so that they look darker when seen from above, while seemingly lighter when seen from below. It is an evolutionary feature that assists in avoiding predatory birds from the surface as well as predatory fish below.Special Feature: Management of cichlid aggression in the tank Cichlids are naturally aggressive fish species. They are well renowned for this trait, and while there are species that are relatively more shy, aggressiveness is true of cichlids as a group. The most basic way in which aggressiveness in the aquarium tank can be prevented is to have many cichlid species inside the tank. This is a safety feature discovered by aquarium hobbyists to keep individuals safe from attacks by tank mates. This technique works by preventing all the cichlid fishes in the aquarium from finding enough empty space in the tank wherein they can establish their own territories. In this manner, hopefully there will be more peace in the tank and the occupants can live amiably among other the cichlid occupants. The natural tendency of cichlids to be aggressive and territorial will show in frequent chasing behavior and frequent pecking and fighting. Some fishes will peck at the fins of others, while two combatants may face each other aggressively and perform a kind of advancing and retreating dance with their mouths open, gaping at each other as if threatening to charge. There are a multitude of other interesting cichlid behavior that will endlessly entertain the aquarist no end, most of them based on a show of aggressiveness toward one another. These are all very normal behavior, considering that the tank occupants are all cichlids. However, all this aggressiveness can still lead to some very serious injuries and mortalities, and if not kept in check, may cause the aquarist to lose precious fishes in his collection. If it ever occurs that one individual in the tank is being constantly bullied, there are a few simple steps that can be made to ensure that individual’s protection and maintain the balance of power in the aquarium environment. Being picked on by other fishes may result to the individual getting injured, after which the immune system of that fish consequently decreases. Once this happens, opportunistic bacteria, viruses and fungi can easily invade the wounds of the bullied fish and cause a systemic infection. With a sick fish in the tank, other occupants will soon follow due to the consequent spread of these diseases. It is thus in the aquarist’s best interests to prevent violence and bullying in his cichlid aquarium setup. Below are some surefire tips on creating a more peaceful environment in the cichlid aquarium. With enough experience, the aquarist can add to these six basic points and immensely improve his collection and add to his enjoyment of his cichlid fishes. Six Tips on Solving or Reducing Aggressiveness in a Cichlid Aquarium Setup Tip #1: Rearrange the setup A cichlid that is constantly driving another fish from a certain spot may mean that the aggressive individual has established its territory in that location. To solve this conundrum, the décor inside the tank, including the fake castles or bridges, the plants and the other features inside have to be relocated and rearranged. This will cause the territorial individual to lose his claim on the space he previously occupied, and thus lose some of his aggressiveness. Tip #2: Increase stocking density One important thing to keep in mind in rearing and taking care of cichlids is that more fish means less aggression. So if there is an abnormal level of bullying in the aquarium, put more fish in the collection. Putting a new fish in the tank will let the other fishes lose their interest on the bullied fish and shift their attention to the newcomer. However, do not simply put in the new fish directly, for it will then be the focal point of aggression of the old occupants and the essential problem will not be solved. To fool the other fishes, synchronize the addition of new fish with the regular cleaning and changing of the tank water. Hopefully, the stress caused by the changing of the water and relocation of the structures will divert the focus of attention from the new fish. The new addition may not even be noticed at all. More fishes in the tank = less territorial space = more peaceful environment. Tip #3: Let smaller fishes catch up with the larger ones It is often the case that the aggressive party in a bullying relationship is larger than the one being bullied. To even the odds in this scenario, remove the bullied fish from its tank and keep it for a time separately in another tank. Feed it more often than the other cichlids in the original tank so that it can catch up in terms of body size. Cichlids can grow quite fast, and the smaller one will be able to grow larger in a relatively short period of time. Tip #4: Relocate the bully This tip is the exact opposite of tip #3, wherein instead of removing the smaller fish, the aggressor is relocated instead. Put the large bully in a separate container for a few days, only until it loses its territorial claim to the original tank. After a while, introduce it back to the original tank. While the aggressor has been away, the smaller cichlid meanwhile may have already established a small territory of its own, and upon reintroduction of the original aggressor, the latter will most likely lose its dominant streak, now that it is actually the newcomer in the group. This trick relies heavily on the short memory banks of cichlid brains. Tip #5: Establish species‐specific groups One should try not to put individuals in tanks wherein they are the lone representative of their species. If a tank setup has two or more fishes of one species, and only one individual of another species, there is a tendency for the first group to gang up on the loner. Give that loner a companion of its own kind, and he will have a better chance of living a more peaceful coexistence with the rest of the tank’s occupants. Tip #6: Give it away now! If peace is really hard to come by in the tank, then the last resort would be to give away either the bullied fish or the bully. If the aquarist has multiple collections, simply introduce the relocated fish to another tank. Bullying will never occur if the parties involved cannot cross the waterless border between different aquarium tanks. Sample aquarium setups Below are some samples of cichlid aquarium setups that are suited for beginners. They are beautiful, easy to manage, and contain interesting and colorful species that will breed readily even with lack of specialized knowledge. For experienced cichlid keepers, these setups can still be interesting, and they will already know how to spice it up with other options based on their more extensive experience. For the selection of the aquarium tank, it is recommended not to have a tank which is less than thirty gallons in volume. The reason for this is that larger tanks are easier to manage successfully. Also, larger tanks are especially suited for cichlids because as a group, they are quite aggressive. A tank with bigger space will enable more timid and weaker inhabitants of the aquarium to avoid hostilities by other tank mates more successfully compared to a smaller tank. And finally, it is more interesting to have more than one pair of breeding cichlids, as the full range of their behavior is more likely to be seen, especially when they protect their young during brooding. The species and setups presented below will not require any specialized water conditions. The species are quite hardy and do not have any special needs regarding water quality. For amateurs on their first foray into cichlid keeping, refrain from getting species that originate from African lakes, because they demand more specialized water requirements. As for feeding requirements, the recommended species to be presented will have no trouble accepting the usual kinds of fish food. Nevertheless, they would definitely benefit from a diet that is diversified, such as that which consists of fish flakes and pellets, frozen fish food, and the occasional live prey (if the species in question is carnivorous). African cichlid tank volume: 30 gallons fish species: Kribs (Pelvicachromis pulcher), one pair African butterfly cichlid (Anomalochromis thomasi), (Pseudocrenilabrus multicolor), one pair one pairEgyptian mouth brooder Ancistrus spp., four individuals The species in this suggested setup come from African rivers and are friendly species. Their combination in this aquarium setup is ideal in reducing stress for every occupant. The suggested species here do not damage plants; thus a lot of plants in the tank can be beneficial. They will require places for spawning and hiding. In the wild, kribs use caves to spawn young, and therefore in the tank, flowerpots, rocks and roots should be installed to create a cave environment. It is recommended to provide areas that are free of rocks and plants in order for the fish to have spaces for swimming and for them to be more visible. Butterfly cichlids spawn on flat surfaces, like rocks and similar substrates. Fine sand also encourages spawning. Keeping the tank always clean and ensuring that the occupants are always well fed will reward the keeper with cichlids that thrive well and spawn abundantly. It may also be helpful to add a few schools of tetras or similar fishes to make the tank a little fuller. Make sure that these schooling fish are fond of the upper areas of the aquarium. Pelvicachromis pulcher, Kribs Central American cichlid tank volume: 30 gallons fish species: Sajica/T‐bar convict cichlids (Archocentrus sajica), one pair Convicts (Archocentrus nigrofasciatus), one pair Common pleco/Suckermouth catfish (Hypostomus plecostomus), two individuals The cichlids in this tank setup are less docile than the previous setup. Due to their aggressiveness, it is not recommended to have more than two species in the same tank. And even though they are both open brooders who spawn on rocks, it is again due to their aggressive nature that caves and hiding places are still recommendable. Their aggressive tendencies increase further when they have offspring that they are caring for. It is recommended to put plants that are hardy because even though sajicas do not eat plants, convicts do. Java ferns, anubias and sword plants are good plants to use. It is also quite fine not to have plants at all, for the fishes can thrive even without them, so long as there are enough hiding places for the comfort and security of every occupant. Both of the cichlid species in this setup breed very easily. In fact, for the convicts, one almost cannot stop them from successfully reproducing even without the keeper’s intervention. Archocentrus nigrofasciatus, convict cichlid Amazon cichlid tank volume: 50 gallons fish species: angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare), four individuals Aequidens curviceps, one pair A.maronii, one pair Ancistrus spp., six individuals Because the species in this setup do get a bit large, it is good to invest in a more spacious tank right from the start – hence, the 50‐gallon tank recommendation. For angelfish, it is not recommended to keep them in tanks with a height less than 20 inches. And although the cichlids here are just as easy to care for as the other two setups above, a little bit more effort may be needed to coax them into spawning. The tank should have enough plants, but at the same time there should be a lot of areas for swimming. Big sword plants plus water trumpets (Cryptocoryne spp.) are some plants that are needed by angelfish in spawning. For the other cichlid species, rocks and roots should be provided if they are to breed. If caves can be provided, this is good, especially for A. curviceps, although substitute brooding sites that serve the same purpose may do just as well. Adding some schools of fishes is a good idea to make the tank look filled. However, refrain from using neon tetra schools, as they are considered tasty by angelfish and will most likely eat them. Other small tetra species will also simply serve as meals to these cichlids. These three beginner tank setups will get the amateur keeper on his way to a good cichlid keeping and rearing experience. Once experience is gained, one may venture into more specialized setups and the satisfaction one can get from these popular fish species will then start to become limitless. Diseases Keeping cichlids in an aquarium environment is a serious responsibility, and should not be taken lightly. It is therefore incumbent in any aquarist who keeps cichlids, or any fish for that matter, to be vigilant in observing his charges, keeping them adequately fed, providing the right water, temperature and all the requirements necessary for maintaining a healthy fish stock.Experienced cichlid hobbyists will often know immediately if something is wrong with their pets. They are well versed in normal cichlid behavior in general, and the individual propensities and idiosyncrasies of their own cichlids in particular. If they have been good keepers in the past, they should be able to detect early if the fishes are ill or have some kind of health problem. With time, a disease or two is likely to crop up in any cichlid collection, and thus it is only prudent to be familiarized with the common ailments found in cichlids and how to treat them. As with birds, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians, majority of cichlid ailments are due to invasive and disease‐causing parasites, bacteria or fungi. Parasitic infestations usually cause listlessness, appetite loss and swelling. They are usually internal, and are caused by infectious protozoa and all kinds of worms. Infections caused by bacteria are usually detected in clinical signs that include difficulty of breathing (if respiratory), sores, sluggish swimming, and dullness in color. Fungal diseases usually produce growths of mycelia that are visible to the naked eye. These are the real causes of cichlid diseases. However they are often triggered by stress and injuries, as well as poor tank management. Aggressive individuals in the tank that attack other fishes, poor quality of water, frequent stress factors, open wounds, and other similar stress factors are contributors to disease. They either let opportunistic pathogens attack the body of the fish, causing full blown clinical diseases, or else exacerbate already existing subclinical infections into a tangible and palpable illness. Upon sensing that something is wrong with the cichlids in the tank, they should immediately be separated from the rest of the fishes. This means taking them into quarantine. A treatment or disease tank must be set up that has no decorations or substrates. The tank’s water must be obtained from the original aquarium from which the fish originally came. Make sure that the water is as clean as possible. It is incumbent upon the aquarist to act as fast as possible. Treatments for different diseases are essentially different from each other. However, the procedures for quarantining, caring for sick fishes and preventing disease outbreaks are essentially the same. Upon showing symptoms, research about it on the internet. Go and register in cichlid forums, of which there are numerous. Members in these forums are only too glad to help other hobbyists, especially beginners enthusiastic in their new cichlid pets. Begin the treatment immediately. Do not delay. Every minute that is lost to inaction means a direr prognosis for the sick cichlid. Prevention The best treatment of any disease is to prevent it from even taking a foothold on the tank’s inhabitants. Since injuries trigger the start of many diseases, these must be prevented as much as possible. House only appropriate species together, with the right stocking density and enough tank accessories to ensure a secure and healthy living environment for each fish. Make sure that only high quality water is present at all times, supplemented by a proper filtration system. And never forget that a healthy and appropriate diet is the foundation of every healthy fish. These simple measures go a long way in preventing many of the dreaded diseases that can inflict heavy losses in cichlid stocks. Fish diseases Just like any other animal, including humans, a lot of problems in the health of fishes are beyond the ordinary treatment capabilities of the average hobbyist. There are tumors, complicated systemic diseases, as well as metabolic or functional diseases such as gout or diabetes. Normally, however, fishes are afflicted to a large extent by parasites, fungi, bacteria, and gill and other systemic infections. It is a fact that water, however clean it may be, normally teems with billions of opportunistic microorganisms. In accordance, all vertebrate species, whether healthy or not, always have these microbes present in their bodies at all times. Most animals also normally harbor a small but negligible number of parasitic organisms. This is the complex web of physical existence, such that no single animal can be totally isolated from the rest of the ecological and biological landscape of the earth. The difference is that healthy animals can stave off these diseases through a healthy and functioning immune system. It is only actually through stress that diseases really occur, when infectious microorganisms can start invading and taking over the weakened body of the fish. Poor conditions in the environment will cause such stress, and will provide the opening for harmful organisms to gain a foothold on the fish and compromise cichlid health. Thus, treatment of cichlid diseases will warrant not only eliminating the harmful microorganisms involved, but also correcting the environmental conditions that brought about the weakening of the fish in the first place. Correcting this underlying condition is the key to a successful treatment of fish disease. Diagnosis Successful and correct diagnosis of fish disease will depend on the following: Observation The keeper must be observant enough for changes in the normal behavior of the fishes in his collection. These include inappetence, abnormality in the form and behavior of fins, flashing, abnormal breathing, tilting, unusual isolation, lack of activity, depression, listlessness, and other symptoms.Water quality Equal only to diet, this may arguably be the most essential aspect of fish health, for water is the main environment of fishes. Thus, the quality of water cannot be overemphasized. Several parameters of water quality can be measured, such as pH, hardness, ammonia levels, levels of dissolved oxygen, salinity, and more. Physical examination This may warrant separation of the affected cichlid by placing it in a bowl, and its physical features examined. Look for injuries; wounds; degradation of the skin and scales; reddening and inflammation; abnormal scales; presence of parasites visible to the naked eye; damage or abnormality in the gills, fins, tail, and every part of the body; discoloration; swelling in any part; growths; lumps; and similar signs. A fuller examination might indicate anesthetizing the fish with a light drug and removing it from its environment. This is possible with the help of a fish veterinarian. Look at the concealed portions of the body, such as the fin base, gills, and skin. If warranted, take tissue samples and biopsy samples for histopathological examination. The presence of infectious organisms, abnormal cells and tumor growths can be gleaned from tissue samples. Such laboratory procedures will ensure a more accurate diagnosis and help ensure the success of the treatment. Surgery and laboratory blood work are still in their infancy, and is not yet warranted for many diseases due to the lack of research and poor outcome of cases. Disease complications Early detection of disease will more often than not result in a speedy recovery because it can benefit from early treatment. However, as diseases progress, the possibility of a full recovery also diminishes. This is because once disease sets in, the health and immunity of the fish are compromised, and as the fish gets weaker, other opportunistic pathogens also begin to take hold on the fish and start taking over. Even formerly harmless parasitic organisms start becoming pathogenic or harmful. Secondary bacterial, fungal, viral and parasitic infections start to increase in severity and number, and the fish may have more problems than it can handle. Complications will also mean that more treatments have to be undergone by the fish. It is well known that chemotherapeutic treatments with chemical and drugs can also have their own side effects. They are supposed to only assist the body in controlling and eliminating the disease, but they themselves can be toxic too, especially if administered indiscriminately.Fast‐acting opportunistic bacteria waste no time in attacking the body. Gill parasites may also cause problems as secondary invaders. Irritation of the gills may cause swelling, mucous secretions, and complications in respiration. This leads to more stress, and further weakening of the body. In turn, gill rot and bacterial infections of the gills could follow. Drug treatments might be too harsh at this advanced stage and lead not to recovery but to further weakening, and ultimately death. Proper diagnosis Proper diagnosis is the key to a successful treatment. There is just no use to guessing what disease may be infecting the cichlids without any form of physical examination. Visual examination is the first requirement. Based on the initial findings from examination of gross lesions (or lesions that can be seen by the naked eye), chemical and laboratory work will provide confirmatory diagnosis. This should be carried out before any kind of treatment regimen is warranted for use in the affected cichlids. The aquatic environment Cichlids are vertebrates, just like mammals, birds and herps, and therefore they are also subject to all the disease‐causing pathogens that all vertebrates are susceptible to. In addition to this however, they are also aquatic animals. Thus, special considerations must be taken when dealing with fish disease and treatment, because unlike most vertebrates, they are totally immersed every moment of their lives in an aquatic medium. As such, their reaction to diseases is quite different and limited. The aquatic environment is also prone to another complication, in that disease‐causing organisms can easily travel and infect other fishes in the tank due to the water which acts as a more effective medium of disease transmission. Thus, diseases are more easily spread when it comes to cichlids than terrestrial animals. As for abnormal reactions symptomatic of disease, fishes are limited to inappetence, depression, flashing, rubbing, jumping, gasping, isolation, tilting or lack of balance, and similar movements. They cannot complain by whining, or limp along or hold up their sore fins. The main problem with this array of behaviors is that they are generalized regardless of the underlying problems in the tank. A bacterial infection, parasitic infestation and harmful water conditions may elicit the same responses from the fishes. Therefore, behavioral cues are only clues that something is wrong. They cannot be considered definitive diagnoses or pathognomonic signs. Information for proper diagnosis Forming a proper diagnosis relies on collecting as much facts and information as one possibly can. The more information there is regarding the problem, the more likely one can arrive at the right cause of the disease. There are several information and facts needed for arriving at a correct diagnosis of cichlid diseases. Below are the most pertinent among them. Tank size, sizes and number of occupants, and the filtration system used. This will provide information on stocking density and probable ailments that may arise from overcrowding, ammonia poisoning, water oxygen concentration, and similar problems. Addition of new fishes in the tank. This will indicate the possibility of transmitted diseases from external sources. Long‐ and short‐term behavior of occupants. This will indicate when abnormalities started occurring. Epidemiology of the disease. In layman’s terms, how widespread the disease has spread among the fishes in the tank. Duration of the problem. This will indicate prognosis, the possibility of recovery and treatment options. Acute occurrence of the problem with lack of any infectious symptoms may indicate poisoning or problems in the water quality. Actual symptoms in the affected animals. This is one of the most important signs that can be gathered, for the signs showed by sick cichlids will more often than not point to the true cause of disease. Environmental conditions simply serve as confirmatory signs for eliminating other possible disease causes. Water quality. This will rule out toxicity, poisoning, ammonia, water acidity, and other aquatic environmental factors. Toxic levels of phosphates, nitrates and other organic substances may point to pollution and improper and inadequate filtration. Presence of solid waste and growth of algae and other unwanted organisms also clearly point out less than ideal water conditions. Laboratory tissue samples. This serves as confirmatory signs in diseased fishes. This may include samples of skin scrapes, gill swabs, and biopsies. It will confirm the presence of pathogenic bacteria, fungi, and parasites through histopathological examinations (microscopic examination of tissues). If fresh fecal samples can be obtained, they can also indicate parasites in the intestinal tract. Samples derived from dead individuals can also be helpful, not to mention necropsy data if a qualified veterinarian is around to perform the post mortem examination (fish “autopsy”). These tests will already narrow down the possible causes of the problem to a considerable degree, and in the vast majority of cases, will already yield a definitive diagnosis. The proper treatment regimen will naturally and easily follow a definite and confirmed diagnosis. Although the diagnostic process may seem too complicated and not worth bothering with, they are very much necessary. First because they are scientific and methodical; secondly, because they actually cost cheaper in the long run; and thirdly, because they attack and discover the underlying root cause of the problem, and not just the outward signs.Clinical signs and possible causes Below are some common symptoms and their most probable causes. This section will help the aquarist narrow down the underlying problem affecting his cichlids. Sudden death. In an acute condition where many fishes suddenly turn up dead, with the survivors hanging around on the surface or staying at the bottom, losing their equilibrium, and are depressed and inappetent, the culprit could be acute poisoning. Testing may be done for the presence of toxic elements, high levels of ammonia and lack of oxygen. Testing for bacterial infection on live and dead individuals will also be helpful. As long as there are mortalities, one can take advantage of necropsy, postmortem examination and lab testing. Rubbing, flashing and jumping. This could be a case of high levels of nitrite or ammonia, or imbalanced pH. External parasites may also be a possible cause, for they cause significant irritation. Heavy breathing and gasping with normal breathing. This could be caused by low levels of dissolved oxygen, high nitrite levels, high or low pH, and poor quality of water. This could also be indicative of early stages of gill disease, including gill swelling, gill parasite infestation or gill bacterial infection. Anemia is also a possible cause. General depression, inappetence, and poor grayish skin coloration. Possibilities include parasitism and early onset of bacterial infection. The usual laboratory samples and testing for these diseases are warranted. These diseases may also cause damage to fins as well as isolation. The last three signs may also be combined and further accompanied by an increase in mucus secretion as well as listlessness, which are signs of ectoparasitism as well as poor quality of water. Skin ulceration, reddening of the skin, inflammatory signs, damaged scales, and open wounds. This could be due to a number of factors, which include physical injury with consequent secondary bacterial infection, skin irritation due to ectoparasites, as well as problems in the quality of water. Focal white and red lesions all over the body. This is indicative of parasitic infections on the skin, including leeches, lice and anchor worms. Fin rot. Reddening of the fins, damaged and white fin edges indicate possibility of bacterial infections, ectoparasitic infestation, poor quality of water, physical injury, fungal infection, cotton wool disease, overcrowding, and mouth fungi. Raised scales, swollen abdomen, reddened fins and/or body, and exophthalmos or popped eye. This could indicate viruses, bacteria, internal parasites, tumors, kidney disease, heart disease, genetic disease, and blockage of the intestines.Problems with breathing and abnormalities in the gills with increased mucus secretions. Differential diagnoses include gill infections and infestations; gill rot caused by the Branchiomyces fungus; and bacteria. White spots on fins and skin, accompanied by thickened mucoid secretions. This is white spot, caused by Ichthyophthirius spp. Skin scraping and microscopic examination will confirm the clinical signs. Discolored or whitened skin and fin patches resembling cotton wool with skin erosion and inflammation. This is indicative of fungal infection by Saprolegnia spp. and Columnaris spp. Microscopic examination of lesions will reveal the presence of Flexibacter sp., called the “gliding” bacterium. Skin swelling. Cysts caused by parasitic irritation, physical injuries, tumors, and bacterial infections. Other confirmatory tests will narrow down suspected causes. Abnormal skin growths. Possible causes are viral infection and tumors. These include papillomas, which are growths that look like warts; lymphocystis, which are masses on the gills and skin that are either white or pink; and carp pox. These diseases cannot be treated, are mostly self‐limiting, and generally benign. However, secondary bacterial infection may be a subsequent problem. Cloudy eyes or corneal opacity. Differential diagnoses include physical injuries, bacterial infection, malnutrition, and poor quality of water. Spinal abnormalities and other skeletal problems. Malnutrition, genetic predisposition, physical or muscular injuries, toxicity, organophosphate poisoning, and electric shock are probable causes. Loss of balance, turning over or loss of righting reflex. Diseases of internal organs and disease of the swim bladder are the main culprits in these cases. Presence of worms on the cloacal opening, depression, loss of weight, and chronic deaths. Rule out internal parasites first. Blood and fecal samples are usually necessary for confirmation. Treating fish diseases When speaking of bacterial infections, it is usually necessary to perform antibiotic sensitivity testing before administering specific antibiotics to cichlids. This will ensure that the chemotherapeutic treatment mode is effective. Furthermore, the treatment duration must also be sufficient enough so that no surviving bacteria can remain, which could be resistant to the antibiotic drug if ever a second salvo of infection may occur. Antibiotic treatment with regular antibiotics usually lasts for 5‐7 days. Long acting antibiotics may only require one or two properly spaced administrations.Methods There are four usual ways to administer drug treatments. These include tank treatment, bath treatment, dressing on foods, and direct administration. There are several advantages and disadvantages with each method. Tank treatment. An obvious advantage in this method is that there is no need to handle the fishes. There are, however, several disadvantages. The biological filtration system will be adversely affected; it is hard to calculate the dosage of the drug if the volume of the water is not known; water pH, hardness and presence of organic material in the water can interfere with the composition or effectiveness of the administered drug. Bath treatment. The advantage with this method is that dosages can be calculated with ease, and higher dosages can be given for higher impact at a shorter period. Here, the biological filter is not affected, and there is control over adverse reactions to the drug. The disadvantage is the need for individual handling of the animals to be treated. Dressing on foods. This also has the advantage of not having to handle the patient, but it can be quite hard to give the right drug dosage. The water is also likely to wash off the drug from the food item, and it is quite likely that sick fish may refuse the food offering. Direct administration. This is done on individuals, and it has the advantage of giving the treatment directly to the sick individual. Since it is targeted and directed, the drug can function at its full effectiveness. Obviously, this method is disadvantageous in that the animal must also be handled directly, which causes severe stress. Limitations in treating cichlids and other fishes Since fishes are essentially living in the water, this is an obvious limitation when it comes to formulating and administering medications. From this basic premise, the use of topical medications, pills, injections, and other common means of drug administration in terrestrial animals is already greatly compromised, if not barred by the nature of the fishes and their aquatic environment. There is therefore an increased need to provide cichlids with the right concentrations of their daily dietary and environmental needs – including water quality, food type and amount and proper husbandry – in order that the majority of diseases they are likely to encounter can be diminished to a large extent. After disease has set in, the next best thing to do is to provide an accurate diagnosis in the earliest possible time, in order that the correct treatment regimen may be given and that the affected individuals may suffer as little as possible, leading to faster recovery and greatly minimized mortality. Specific diseasesIn this section, several common and specific diseases found in cichlids will be featured and highlighted, including the signs and symptoms, diagnoses, and treatment. Malawi bloat This is supposedly the most common and prevalent affliction in African species of cichlids. It primarily attacks herbivorous cichlids. Symptoms of this disease are listlessness, difficulty in breathing, reclusive behavior, white fecal matter which sinks to the tank bottom, inappetence, and abnormal stomach swelling. There may also be red marks on the cloaca, as well as ulcerations of the skin. This disease is thought to be caused by a protozoan parasite in the intestinal tract, although no consensus as of yet has been reached regarding its true cause. If not treated early, it also causes damage to the swim bladder, kidneys and liver. This protozoon supposedly thrives in the intestines and can puncture its linings, which consequently causes the bloat. The fish dies from internal organ damage and not from starvation, as may be commonly supposed. If organ damage is occurs, death will ensue not later than three days. Predisposing factors for the disease, just like with other diseases, are stress caused by inadequate or inappropriate diet, as well as poor quality of the tank water. Feeding bloodworms, high protein diets and crustaceans to herbivorous cichlids will stress out their intestinal tract, giving the pathogen the needed edge to spread and cause clinical signs. High salt concentration in the water added in the mistaken belief that it will cause water hardness also causes stress to the fishes. Cichlids with bloat Treatment consists of changing 50% of the water, changing the filters, and administration of Clout and Metronidazole in the tank. Do not feed the fish during the treatment process. Once symptoms occur, give Trichlorphon (brand name Clout). If this is not available, try metronidazole (popular brand name is Flagyl). Move the affected fish to the quarantine aquarium and give Clout at recommended dosage. On the second day, cut the dosage in half but do not replace the water. At the fourth day, replace eighty percent of the water and again administer Clout at recommended dosage. If at the sixth day onwards the fish has fully recovered, it can again be put back in its original tank.The administration of Epsom salts has also been touted as a treatment method, acting as laxative and reducing the amount of water inside the body of the fish. A differential diagnosis for Malawi bloat is Gas Bubble Disease or GBD. If this is suspected, try administering Epsom salts first, because this is also the cure for GBD. If it does not work, try the standard treatment regimen for Malawi bloat. Flipover or Swim‐bladder disorder The swim bladder is an organ in cichlids that keeps them aloft and buoyant in the water. It is a sac located in the abdomen that is lined with epithelium. The disease prevents the bladder from doing its work, and results in difficulty of the affected fish to dive or float. It also causes stomach swelling just like Malawi disease. A fish having this condition may swim with its tail up and its snout down. Poor diet is a predisposing cause, which leads to blockage of the intestines and production of gas in the gut. This irritates the bowel of the fish, which arouses opportunistic pathogens such as parasites and bacteria and allow them to attack the bladder. Flipover is also thought to be due to constipation or parasites in the intestines. Flipover can be prevented by not feeding too much protein to the fish and providing more fiber instead. This fiber can be found in lettuce, zucchini, carrots, spinach, and peas, which are all fiber‐rich foods. A surgical option is to partially remove the bladder or to place a stone within the bladder in order that buoyancy may be adjusted. Ich or white spot This is indicated by the presence of white tiny spots that gradually spread to the head, fins and body. This disease is caused by a protozoon called Ichthyophthirius sp. It is among the most persistent and common freshwater fish diseases known. The protozoon is an external parasite that encysts on the skin and cause nodules that resemble sugar or salt, hence the name white spot. It is difficult to control, and in severe cases causes a complete wipeout of the entire population. It is spread through the movement of fish and equipment from one tank to another, and is the key to controlling epidemics and contamination. Treating the disease is very expensive and damaging. Ich also causes damage to the gills. If infestation is heavy, the fish can quickly die. There is also the presence of excessive mucus caused by irritation. Other clinical signs are based on behavior. There is appetite loss, difficulty of breathing, abnormal depression and isolation, stillness at the tank bottom, scratching, rubbing, and flashing. Most of the damage done by the parasite is made during its journey into and out of the fish tissues in the course of its life cycle. This is the cause of the skin ulceration and irritation that is a hallmark of the disease. Skin damage affects the fish’s swimming ability, and additional damage to the gills also cause respiratory distress. Thus, an aquatic environment that has less dissolved oxygen would likely weaken affected individuals and exacerbate their condition. Poor water conditions affect fish resistance to infection, and may thus trigger an Ich outbreak due to the depressed immune system of the host individual. Diagnosis is easily obtained through the examination of tissues on the skin and gills that have white spots. Under the microscope, the protozoa can be easily seen. Treatment of Ich varies, but in all cases, the skin encysted immature forms cannot be destroyed. Only the stage that is free‐swimming can be affected by the treatment methods. These methods include heat treatment, chlorination of the water, salt treatment, and an assortment of chemotherapeutic drugs such as quinine, potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, chelated copper, malachite green, and formaldehyde. If detected and treated early, treatment is usually effective. In advanced stages of the disease, prognosis also progressively diminishes. Treated fish usually develop resistance to future infection. However, if treatment is only partial, a second outbreak may occur after a few weeks. Hexamita spp. infection This disease is also known as Hole on the Head, a common ailment in cichlids that causes inappetence and the tell‐tale hole or depression on the head of the affected fish. The clinical signs also include loss of weight. It is usually triggered by a poor diet and poor quality of water. Insufficient amounts of calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins D and C in the diet are predisposing factors. Tuberculosis This is a highly contagious disease that causes high mortality in fish populations. It is also dangerous because the disease can be transmitted to people if direct contact with wounds occurs. Fish mortality can reach as high as 100%. The disease is characterized by inappetence, fraying of fins, white blotches on the skin, and a sunken stomach. Immediate quarantine of affected fishes is paramount. Antibiotics for tuberculosis may be appropriate, such as Pimafix or Melafix. The original tank must be thoroughly disinfected and the gravel or substrate totally replaced.Fin rot Fin rot can start with a purely physical injury, after which secondary bacterial and fungal infections can invade the site of the wound and wreck havoc on the injured tissues. With bacterial infection, the lesion can be seen as rotting with a ragged characteristic. For fungal infections, there is a more even rotting pattern, which is also characterized by a whitish edge on the infected wound. It is not uncommon to encounter a mixed infection of both bacteria and fungi, however. As with other diseases that are caused by opportunistic pathogens, this disease is triggered and exacerbated by poor water conditions, inadequate nutrition, wrong temperature, and overall poor environmental conditions. The rotting of the fins occurs at the fin edges first, and progressively destroys the rest of the fins. Once the infection reaches the base of the fin, subsequent regeneration of the fin may be impossible. After this, the infection may spread to the body of the fish, attacking the skin and, if left untreated cause further damage through systemic infection. This disease is quite easy to treat. There are antibiotics available in the market that are effective in eliminating bacterial pathogens. They are usually systemic drugs that can treat a host of other bacterial diseases. They may also indirectly treat fungal infections once the immune system of the fishes gains enough strength to fight off the fungi on their own. For fungal infections, the site of the rot can be periodically dabbed with malachite green. Alternately, the fish may be given a malachite green bath. Fungal infections Infections caused by fungi are arguably the most common ailments encountered by aquarists who keep tropical fishes. Due to the ubiquitous presence of fungal spores everywhere, they can easily colonize and infect immune‐compromised individuals who are stressed, diseased and injured. Predisposing factors to fungal infections include poor quality of water, poor hygiene, inadequate or improper feeding, stressful tank mates, and overall poor tank conditions of every kind. It is quite easy to identify fungal infections in fishes because of the fluffy white appearances of the lesions. However, grave or advanced infections may also be characterized by a red or grayish coloration. The majority of fungal infections occur on the outer tissues of the body. They can also infect and kill eggs. They are usually secondary opportunistic pathogens that only cause disease if there is an already pre‐existing sickness or wound. . Cotton wool disorderThis is a contagious and rapidly spreading disease that is characterized by cotton‐
like white growths. It is caused by fungi that can be found on food leftovers as well as fish carcasses not removed from the aquarium tank. Fungi species that can cause this disease usually include Saprolegnia spp. and Achyla spp. Other species may also cause infection, and multiple species can be found in a single infected site. Fishes with this disease condition turn into whitish gray in color, have ulcers, and have fins that are damaged. Patches can be seen on the gills, and the head tissues start eroding. It is therefore obvious that proper water hygiene and quality is essential in preventing this disease. Furthermore, overfeeding the fishes must be stopped in order that there will be no left over feeds that could encourage fungal growth. Treatment for this disorder involves immersion in aquarium salt baths, application of gentian violet and administration of fungicides such as phenoxyethanol. The development of eggs may also be disrupted by fungal infections. Fungi start off by infecting infertile, diseased and damaged eggs, and then start spreading on eggs that are healthy. This condition is usually seen when parents have abandoned their eggs or when artificial rearing is practiced. There is no treatment for eggs that have been infected. These eggs should be immediately taken out of the tank with use of pipettes, forceps, or needles. Gill rot This disease is quite uncommon, especially if tanks are well maintained and fishes are in good health. Once it occurs, however, it can cause high mortality rates. Fishes with gill rot will have difficulty breathing, having mottled and mucus‐covered gills. The usual fungus species isolated from gill rot infections is Branchiomyces spp. The infection can cause the total degradation and rotting of gills. When tank nitrite and ammonia levels are abnormally high, fishes get stressed and the fungi opportunistically cause clinical infection. Therapy with phenoxyethanol baths over a long period of time in conjunction with a higher dissolved oxygen level in the tank may have significant results, although generally, treatment is unsuccessful and difficult. The best treatment is still prevention as well as good husbandry practices. Systemic infections caused by fungi As stated earlier, fungal infections that attack fishes systemically are quite rare. Once they occur, however, diagnosis and treatment are generally difficult. One such fungus is Icthyoponus spp., which causes poor conditions in infected fishes. So far, diagnosis has been made only through necropsy. In some infected fishes, immersion in malachite green has been found to successfully treat the disease. It should be noted that a lot of infections that have been blamed on fungi have actually been bacterial infections. These include diseases such as tail rot and mouth “fungus.” Treatment with nitrofurazone, an antibiotic, has proven effective. Conclusion Keeping and breeding cichlids can be a very rewarding venture both for beginners and professional aquarists alike. As long as their general and special requirements are adequately met, these colorful, active and interesting fishes will provide years of pleasure and stimulating experiences to the hobbyist. Knowledge of their behavior and providing for their biological needs are all essential for them to satisfy their owners and give them the personal fulfillment they can get from caring for cichlid fishes. Sample 2: MARKETING THE CAFÉ DE ALAMID Abstract The Café de Alamid has a fair number of marketing strategies in the form of visual advertisements situated all over the coffee shop. There are large banners outside in bold bright colors; glaring and multiple posters of their latest product; the name of their shop all over the place; the sense of conscientiousness in caring for the environment; and the conveying of the sense of home one gets from patronizing their coffee. The banners, names and ambience are all fairly effective, and even the ads of the latest product is visible enough. The latter, however, can be too visible for comfort, and the style of the ad is a bit vague regarding the product being advertised. Indirect marketing is employed in the sense of environmentalism and the soothing and cozy ambience provided to the customers. The environmental pitch, however, is not too apparent if one will not go about exploring some of the sections of the shop, such as the condiments section. All in all, the shop exudes the ambience they want to project, and they deliver their marketing message clearly enough. Marketing the Café de Alamid Even before entering the Café de Alamid here in our city, I have noticed the large banners situated outside the shop, in bold bright red and yellow colors showing a nice cute girl sipping a cup of tea. The banner reads: “The Café de Alamid: A Taste of The Goodness of Home Away From Home.” This banner is useful for passers by, both pedestrians and vehicles, for a two‐ to three‐second exposure. If you regularly pass by their shop, the banners are an effective advertisement. They convey a sense of soothing experience one gets from drinking their coffee, which is therefore attractive to potential customers. Beside the door, there is plastered on the wall the business’ most recent product: instant coffee in a sachet that “you can take anywhere you go for a taste and aroma of home.” The target market for this product is obviously people on the go, or those who want the Café de Alamid’s coffee even if they are away from the shop. This particular advertisement, however, is not too clear: it just consists of a darkly colored silhouette of a man standing and leaning (apparently on a wall) with some obscure slogans all around him. He is supposedly drinking coffee, but without the context of the shop, if you see the same silhouette anywhere else, you would never be able to assume that he is holding a cup, let alone drinking from it. Also, the slogans on the poster are unclear: “Go Out,” “Get There,” “Make It,” and the name of the product, “Breakcup.” It’s like a slogan for cheerleading. Further, the name of the product suggests a negative experience, a relationship “break up,” although it obviously refers to taking a coffee cup while you are on a short break from work. Although one sees the ad only briefly while entering the door, inside the coffee shop one sees that the ad is posted on every wall and even on the table mats. Thus you cannot help but have the idea that they have a new product, and it is reasonable to assume that it is a kind of coffee, although again, exactly what kind of coffee, is unclear. From the sheer number of posters of this product inside the shop, sometimes it becomes annoying. Another potential problem one gets to think of with this product is that there might not be any available hot water or cup where the coffee in the sachet will be used. The solution to that problem is not apparent, and is left to the customer to solve. In the end, you’ll probably only experience the coffee “on‐the‐go” when you are at home or at the office, and not actually “on‐the‐go.” And then there are the usual poster advertisements about how the shop helps conserve the environment by asking the customers to limit the napkins and get only what they need, how they do not use plastic, and the fact that they fund conservation projects. This is indirect marketing. These ads are an appeal to the conscientious sense of the customer, and not directly to any product. They hope to have the general population want to avail of their coffee because they are supposedly an environmental business which does not ravage trees and Mother Nature. This is only effective if the customer has a personal deep interest in environmental concerns. Furthermore, the posters are usually on the condiments section, and if you won’t get any sugar or creamer, you won’t usually notice them. And lastly, the name of the shop is plastered all over the shop, in every wall and on tables. There are no jingles about the shop or its products, unlike in fast food chains where you hear their infuriating jingle endlessly from the start of your meal until you finish. Here in the Café de Alamid, you only hear soothing jazz or easy world music. The soothing music thus reinforces the feeling of home and coziness which the shop wants to project, doing away with silly jingles in favor of providing a soothing atmosphere for its patrons. It is a subtly effective marketing ploy, because you get no mention of the coffee itself. You get this soothing experience the whole time you are in the shop. You forget your problems and simply sit back and enjoy the caffeine ride. Sample 3: The Train Model Hobby The hobby of model railroading utilizes model trains on model railroads and landscapes that simulate actual environments on a smaller scale. Inclusive in these models are the train cars, rolling stocks, and railroad tracks, plus the surrounding hills, mountains, valleys, rivers and streams, buildings, people, vehicles, and more. The earliest of these models were less accurate than their real counterparts, but later modelers were simply not content with anything less than a faithful scale reproduction of their train systems. Such model railroads are accurate even to the time period in history that they are recreating. Hobbyists can be content with simple oval tracks and bare layouts, or they may spend large amounts of money just to have intricate model trains and well‐detailed sceneries. Even real places are duplicated. Clubs for hobbyists now exist in many places throughout the country. These are venues for enthusiasts to meet and expand their interests, as well as learn from each other. Models are put on display for the general public during shows, and many clubs are specialist clubs which concentrate on particular model gauges and scales. Some of these scales are large enough to carry people, and such a model is usually called a miniature railway. These models are often built by hand and powered either by steam or diesel engines. The oldest model railroaders society in existence today is The Model Railway Club, located in London UK. The first locomotive prototypes were powered by spring drives or live steam, and they cannot be controlled in terms of speed or direction. Electric model trains, on the other hand, which had their advent during the last decade of the 19th century, could be controlled by varying the amount of voltage and current on the train. This electric mechanism soon evolved and became more sophisticated with the inclusion of rectifiers, advanced throttles and transformers. There are model trains which can be powered either by DC or AC current. Both can be manipulated to reverse directions, and AC powered trains can even be set into a neutral gear. Control is attained through the division of the landscape into blocks which can be isolated from each other. Diminishing or depriving a block of electric power slows the train, and such a set up makes it possible to operate more than one train on a single track without the possibility of collision. Variations have also been used to advantage in these set ups. Blocks can trigger the operation of accessories or signals. Some layouts have insulated rails on certain sections wherein a passing model train may connect the circuit and activate the operation of an electric accessory. Today’s digital age has also witnessed the rise of model trains which operate digitally. These DCC or Digital Command Control systems are sophisticated enough to handle all the operations including train speed, lights, direction, sound effects, smoke and other electronic parts. DCC systems are even controlled by specialized software, as well as control by remote radio. This technological innovation and advancement provides the modeler more options in operation, functional variation and realism. And of course, this translates into more fun, enjoyment and fulfillment. Sample 4 The Death that Ensured the Defeat of the Filipinos from the Americans The Filipino‐American War which started in 1899 could not have been won by the Americans if not for treacherous assassination of Antonio Luna by Emilio Aguinaldo’s forces. This is the worst turning point in the history of that war, because the dazzling military brilliance, multiple intelligence, extreme diligence, discipline, talent and passion for perfection and excellence that General Luna possessed could have routed even the mighty military prowess of the United States. 1 Cannons, shipboats and advanced firepower were confronted only by the crude bolos and guns of the Filipinos, and yet the Americans did not count on two other factors that gave the Filipinos their advantage: their unwavering courage and Luna’s skillful strategic maneuvering. Filipino guerrillas have been known to lay their chests bare before the bayonets of the Americans1, despite the Americans having made the battlefield look more like a place of butchery and massacre than war. 2 But on the battle led by General Luna in Manila on February 4, 1899, for every Filipino who went down, fifty others took his place. So that even with their reinforcements and weaponry, the Americans found serious trouble enough to compel them to send a cable to General Lawton in Ceylon for assistance and help. 2 A reporter that accompanied Lawton also expressed his admiration for the “solid heroism” of the Filipinos, which in his opinion he will not ever see again. Luna’s uncanny talents, along with his well‐known short temper against incompetence, insubordination and cowardice, earned him the ire and contempt of many of the Katipuneros.1 These, along with the rumors of his ambitions, led to his assassination at the young age of 33.2 While the Americans were astonished by him and respected and admired him, the backstabbing Filipinos hated him. General Hughes of the U.S. Army was even known to have said that the Filipinos only had a single general, and yet they had him killed. 1 Earning America’s Grudging Respect Modern day Filipinos will only be aware of General Antonio Luna as a name which graces many a street in the country, the first of which stretches from Paco to Ermita up to the Intramuros walls. There is also the Binondo stone mansion where he was born, as well as the Badoc, Ilocos Norte country house where his parents raised their children. A signpost in Cabanatuan, Nueva Ecija also indicates where he fell to his death from the wounds he incurred from traitorous Katipuneros. What Filipinos do not know, and even fewer care about, is that Antonio Luna helped forge American respect for Filipinos. He was instrumental in letting the conquering Americans recognize the Filipinos’ innate courage. Luna and other nameless as well as famous Katipuneros gave us a gift we would be hard pressed to give back in return. Education and Stay in Europe In his stay in Spain, Antonio Luna found the country dry, acrid, and impoverished. The Spaniards he described as racist and ignorant, while the women as charming and pretty. He fought Spanish writers critical of Filipinos. Luna had also been described as handsome and charming. He even quarreled with Rizal over the affections of a certain French mestiza, and he was a favorite of society hostesses back in Manila. A Family Tragedy Juan Luna’s temper and jealousy cost the lives of his mother‐in‐law and his wife in Paris when he shot them during the month of September, in 1892. This shooting spree also injured Felix Pardo de Tavera, Luna’s brother‐in‐law. Although Luna was tried, he was also absolved and simply imposed a fine for what the French considered a “crime of passion.” Sources: 1Nakpil, Carmen Guerrero. A plot to kill a general. The Philippine Star. Updated October 27, 2008 12:00 AM http://www.philstar.com/Article.aspx? articleId=410324&publicationSubCategoryId=79 2Jose, Vivencio R. The Rise and Fall of Antonio Luna. Manila: Trademark Pub. Corp., 1999. Sample 5: Introducing the Amazing Store Manager for X‐Cart The new Store Manager for X‐Cart software is now available to complement the already‐ever‐ reliable X‐Cart Shopping Cart. It is a software application that increases the different aspects and overall capacity of the XCart Shopping Cart by extending its functionality on many levels, especially in store managing aspects. It is almost unthinkable that the X Cart Shopping Cart features which make store tasks routine and easy can be made even easier with the Store Manager for X‐Cart. This new software can handle the inventory of thousands of store products while at the same processing sales orders and updating the product listing. The import‐export tool has been upgraded and made faster, and the X‐Cart management capabilities for categories, customers and orders have been enhanced. Filters have been improved, and search options broadened. Together with its advanced operations automating and faster system updating, Store Manager for X‐Cart is guaranteed to bring its loyal subscribers to an entirely new level of store operation and management, including that of multiple stores. Store Manager for X‐Cart can enhance product and category management by enabling its user to manage all products and categories in just a single window, create and edit clone products and store categories, instantly import and export categories, and search, edit and manage product options and categories better. It can also make the administration, filtering and management of customers easier. Import and export functions as well as filtering and preview of orders have also been upgraded. Managing data on inventories, sales and customers have been enhanced. There are new features for restoring and backing up data, and the database can be edited more easily. All menus, help functions and toolbars have also been provided or upgraded. All in all, the Store Manager for X‐Cart is a most welcome addition to the already amazing features of the XCart Shopping Cart. And the exceptional and oh‐so‐famous customer service provided by the technical team is also guaranteed in the Store Manager. It is about time that online stores are managed by a single excellent application.