International Fashion Showcase 2017
presented by Mercedes-Benz
17–21 February 2017
West Wing Galleries
Somerset House
London
presented by
International Fashion Showcase 2017
The British Council, British Fashion Council (BFC) and Mercedes-Benz
welcome you to the International Fashion Showcase (IFS) 2017 at Somerset
House. The exhibition is the sixth edition of the annual showcase which gives
the public the opportunity to celebrate fashion and its universal relevance
while offering emerging international designers the unique opportunity to
present their collections alongside London Fashion Week. This is the first time
the IFS will be supported and presented by Mercedes-Benz, who for the past 21
years has established itself as a key partner of international fashion shows and
events, which now number more than 50 platforms globally.
The theme of this year’s exhibition is Local/Global. Over 80 designers
from 26 countries have been invited to explore the influence of place on fashion
design. Fashion is shaped by its surroundings: the rhythms of nature, climate,
cultural memory, social change and historical shifts are reflected in silhouettes,
techniques and materials. The peculiarities of place give rise to different ways
of designing, making and wearing fashion. By considering fashion within their
own landscape, the countries taking part in IFS will highlight the similarities
and differences of our complex and connected world.
Fashion finds its origins in many places – the agricultural, the
provincial, the industrial, the urban – these places deeply influence materials,
techniques and the creative process. For every garment has multiple origins,
is a product of multiple places and moves through multiple hands. The work
shown at IFS 2017 is both local and global revealing how emerging designers
can transform their local culture into a global language. Global themes are
viewed from a local standpoint and local stories in an international context.
We ask not only how fashion has been moulded by its localities, but how it
has – and continues to – shape places. To reflect how fashion is influenced
by its surroundings, the West Wing Galleries at Somerset House have been
transformed by Faye Toogood using panels of stretched agricultural tarpaulin,
neat stacks of bricks and fabric panels dyed with London clay. Here an
emerging generation of international designers and curators will
invite visitors to share their vision of Local/Global.
The exhibition covers five continents and is arranged by country,
each presentinga specially commissioned and curated fashion installation.
The Next in Line installation curated by Shonagh Marshall features work from
nine further countries. In a dedicated space, Mercedes-Benz showcase five
emerging designers supported through its International Designer Exchange
Programme. The programme gives designers a platform to present their
collections in front of an international audience and the opportunity to engage
with new markets.
Founded in 2012 as part of the Cultural Olympiad, and celebrating
its values of fraternity, diversity and excellence, the International Fashion
Showcase remains a competition. A prize-giving ceremony scheduled during
London Fashion Week February 2017, will announce a winning Country,
Designer, and Curator awarded by a panel of experts, headed by Sarah Mower
MBE, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent and Chief Critic at Voguerunway.
com. For the first time, Mercedes-Benz will additionally present the winning
designer with the unique opportunity to showcase their collection at one of
Mercedes-Benz fashion platforms.
We would like to thank Mercedes-Benz, the IFS Advisory Panel for
their support and guidance; London College of Fashion, UAL and Fashion
Scout for the business support and showcasing opportunities offered to
International Fashion Showcase designers; and all the embassies and national
cultural institutes, their partners, designers and curators for celebrating
London as the capital of emerging talent during London Fashion Week.
T H E A DV I S O RY PA N E L FO R T H E
I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA S H I O N S H O W C A S E 2 0 1 7 I S :
Chair: Sarah Mower MBE, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent
and Chief Critic at Voguerunway.com
Alistair O’Neill, Central Saint Martins and Independent curator
Anders Christian Madsen, i-D
Anna Orsini, British Fashion Council
Ashish Gupta, Designer
Barbara Grispini, British Fashion Council
Claire Catterall, Somerset House
Fabio Piras, Central Saint Martins
Karla Otto, Karla Otto on behalf of Mercedes-Benz
Mandi Lennard, Mandi’s Basement
Martyn Roberts, Fashion Scout & Graduate Fashion Week
Miriam Bouteba, Time Out
Natalie Kingham, Matches
Nick Vinson, Wallpaper*
Paul Yuille, London College of Fashion, UAL
Robb Young, Business of Fashion
Sarah Mann, British Council
Stavros Karelis, Machine A
Zowie Broach, Royal College of Art
The International Fashion Showcase 2017 is presented by Mercedes-Benz and
directed by Anna Orsini, British Fashion Council and Niamh Tuft, British Council.
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Mercedes-Benz is proud to present the
International Fashion Showcase 2017
Xiao Li at London Fashion Week AW 2016
supported by Mercedes-Benz IDEP. Xiao Li participated in IFS 2014
Together with the British Council and British Fashion Council
(BFC) Mercedes-Benz is pleased to collectively present work by
emerging fashion designers from more than 26 countries for
the International Fashion Showcase 2017 at the iconic Somerset
House. The exhibition will be the sixth edition of the annual
showcase and is the first time it will be supported and presented
by Mercedes-Benz.
In a dedicated space, Mercedes-Benz will further
showcase five emerging designers, Anna K from the Ukraine,
Angel Chen from China, David Ferreira from Portugal, Steven
Tai from Canada and William Fan from Germany, who are
supported through its International Designer Exchange Program
(IDEP) across the globe.
As part of its ongoing global fashion commitment,
Mercedes-Benz continues to support, nurture and mentor
talented young and emerging design talent through the IDEP,
which offers up-and-coming designers a unique opportunity
to present their collections outside of their local markets to
an international audience. Launched in 2009, the program
is currently active across Mercedes-Benz’ supported fashion
platforms and is often supported by an award program initiated
by Mercedes-Benz and underpinned by a panel of experts.
For more than 20 years, Mercedes-Benz has established
itself globally as a key player and partner at selected
international fashion events and is currently involved in more
than 50 fashion platforms including Fashion Weeks in Beijing,
Milan, London, Sydney and Berlin amongst others.
Local/Global
Country: Austria. Designer: Hvala Ilija. Photographer: Rudolf Strobls
Global forces have shaped our fashion system. Advances in technology
and communications are expanding possibilities for designers and
consumers alike, while travel has given rise to valuable exchanges
of inspiration, knowledge and skills. But how can we maintain a sense
of place in such a fast-moving, often virtual world?
Here at the International Fashion Showcase 2017, emerging
designers and curators from 26 countries present their inspiring
interventions. Exploring intersections between their local environments
and the world-at-large, they rediscover local crafts, and offer
sustainable solutions to local and global threats. Some draw upon
landscapes; others, cityscapes. What unites them is the transformation
of their unique aesthetics into dialects of a global language.
Text throughout by Jihane Dyer
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Another Austria:
Material Essence
Austria return to Somerset House with their fifth annual showcase,
weaving together the country’s rich design history with a
contemporary vision that is seeing its young creatives leap towards
the international fashion stage. Focussing on the ‘Material
Essence’ of Austria – a textile heritage spanning Blaudruck indigo
dyeing from Burgenland to woollen Loden fabric produced in Graz
– four young designers present fresh takes on these enduring arts
and handcrafting methods, revitalising them with a global appeal
reminiscent of the Wiener Werkstätte’s declaration of universal
modernity more than a century ago.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Raphael Caric
P H O T O G R A P H E R Marcella Ruiz Cruz and Marlene Mautner
C U R AT O R
HEIRS, Hvala Ilija, Raphael Caric, Sabrina Stadlober
Claudia Rosa Lukas
EXHIBITION DESIGN
ORGANISED BY
Polimekanos
Austrianfashion.net and Austrian Cultural Forum London
The Arts Division and the Culture Division of the Federal Chancellery of Austria, AWO Advantage Austria,
Vienna Business Agency – departure
www.acflondon.org - www.anotheraustria.com
SUPP ORTED BY
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Animita
Chile’s installation is a rich experiment in hybridity: the fusing
of spirituality, sustainability, heritage, art and fashion. Housed
in an ‘Animita’ – a spontaneously erected roadside shrine –
specially-commissioned designs by Chile’s emerging fashion talent
are juxtaposed with work by visual artists in celebration of the
country’s artisanal textile heritage. The result is a proud homage
to the intrinsic characteristics of the Chilean textile industry
that they are helping to revive – small scale production, an
eco-sustainable ideology and the continuity of its ancestral origins.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
C U R AT O R
D E S I G N E R Matías Hernán
P H O T O G R A P H E R Juan Queirolo
Andrea Pacheco González and Tamara Poblete
EXHIBITION DESIGN
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Lupe Gajardo, Matías Hernán, Sebastián Plaza, Sisa
Loreto Martinez with students from University of Chile
ORGANISED BY
National Council of Culture and the Arts, Pro Chile, British Council Chile
SUPP ORTED BY
DIRAC, Embassy of Chile in the UK
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There is Only You
The map is not the territory. There is no organisation. There is
only you. A hall of mirrors evokes a world without borders in the
Czech showcase. At the centre of a kaleidoscope of viewpoints
– where individuality, self-awareness and personal responsibility
become a means to transcend boundaries – five designers coalesce
to establish distinct yet co-existing territories of their own; their
garments telling countless stories within the infinite metaspace
forming among the reflections. Here, the blurring of reality and
reflection, original and simulacra, emerges as a metaphor for these
designers’ fusions of art, fashion, tradition and experimentation.
Filip Hieke, Michaela Capkova, Katerina Plamitzerova, Tereza Ledvinova, Tereza Rosalie Kladosova
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Tereza Ledvinova
P H O T O G R A P H E R Lenka Grabicova
C U R AT O R
Pavel Ivancic
EXHIBITION DESIGN
ORGANISED BY
Ales Kachlik
Czech Centre London, Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague
Embassy of Czech Republic in London, Lasvit, Prague City Hall, Pilsner Urquell, Radio Wave
www.czechcentre.org.uk - www.umprum.cz
SUPP ORTED BY
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100% Egyptian Cotton
‘100% Egyptian Cotton’: a venerated trademark across the globe,
and Egypt’s inspiration for IFS 2017. Over two centuries, Egypt
has established its ancient export as the ‘White Gold’ synonymous
with the country and the key to its development. Now, against
a dynamic backdrop of a cotton-field, its young designers have
come together to reflect upon cotton’s lifecycle – from seed to
harvest, thread to garment, farming women to global consumers
– simultaneously establishing themselves as the leaders of Egypt’s
nascent jewellery and fashion industries.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Maram Paris
P H O T O G R A P H E R Alex Evans
C U R AT O R
Susan Sabet
EXHIBITION DESIGN
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Jayda Hany, Maram Paris, Marsuma Designs, Norine Farah, Okhtein, Reem Jano, Sabry Marouf
Living In Interiors
ORGANISED BY
Pashion Magazine
SUPP ORTED BY
CIB Bank, Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt, British Council Egypt, Sahara by Shahira Fawzy
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Millennial Moon
Guatemala’s Mayan heritage provides the inspiration for ‘Millennial
Moon’, an installation rooted in the scientific sophistication of the
civilisation’s ancient lunar calendar and the mother-figure of Ixchel,
goddess of the moon, fertility and weaving. Reimagining Somerset
House as Ixchel’s observatory-cum-atelier, Guatemala’s emerging
fashion designers showcase their visions of the future. This new
generation of creative inventors is inspired by both the cosmos and
ancient textile techniques, their impact strengthened by global
communication and manufacturing technologies.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Alexander Ayala
P H O T O G R A P H E R Emmanuel Garcia
C U R AT O R S
Alexander Ayala, David Valencia, HO Piezas Unicas, MEÜS, Thelma Espina
Cecilia Santamarina de Orive, Carolina Yafe, Aida Arguello
EXHIBITION DESIGN
ORGANISED BY
Olivero Bland Studio
Coyuntura 13, Embassy of Guatemala UK, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Guatemala
Mercedes-Benz, Guatemorfosis, Punto Mandarina, Nando Yax PR, Meso Goods, The Mayan Store,
Banco Interamericano de Desarrollo
SUPP ORTED BY
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The Indian Pastoralists
Among India’s pastoral communities – nomadic groups renowned
for their artisanal skill as much as their animal-herding expertise
– a keen awareness of the need to share and protect natural
resources, preserve historic mechanisms, and maintain their
social fabric has enabled ancient traditions to survive in the face
of increasing deforestation, desertification and industrialisation.
For the country’s new generation of fashion designers, the
Indian pastoralist lifestyle offers inspiring solutions to the global
fashion industry’s ever-growing focus on sustainability, providing
a starting-point for contemporary reinterpretations of India’s
internationally celebrated textile and craft heritage.
Ikai by Ragini Ahuja, Kaleekal, Ka-Sha by Karishma Shahani Khan, P.E.L.L.A.,
Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Antar-Agni
P H O T O G R A P H E R Ashish Shah
C U R AT O R
IMG Reliance
EXHIBITION DESIGN
ORGANISED BY
IMG Reliance & Wasim Khan
IMG Reliance
6Degree, Etihad Airways, Lakme Fashion Week
www.img.com - www.lakmefashionweek.co.in
SUPP ORTED BY
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Bojagi: The Art of Sharing,
Transportation and Transformation
From food coverings to pouches for precious objects, embroidered
or patchworked, traditional Korean bojagi wrapping cloths have
been appropriated and transformed for myriad uses. For a new
generation of Korea’s creative talent, the flexibility, recyclability
and multi-functionality of the bojagi has the potential to offer an
invaluable vocabulary to global fashion. The designers presented
here are proudly spreading the word. Infusing bojagi culture with
global influences and reinterpreting its tropes for an international
audience, their creations emerge as metaphors for the driving
forces of the contemporary global landscape: transportation,
transformation, sharing and exchange.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R The Sirius
P H O T O G R A P H E R Alice Schillaci
C U R AT O R
Chez Heezin, Softcore by Sena Yun, The Sirius, Youser
Julie HJ Lee
EXHIBITION DESIGN
Cabinat Limited
Korea Creative Contents Agency, Korean Cultural Centre, Cabinat Limited
www.london.korean-culture.org - www.koccaeurope.com
ORGANISED BY
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Waste Not
Unethical, mass-produced, fast fashion is a global reality of our
times, but students and graduates of Poznań’s School of Form
are finding resourceful ways to challenge it. By manipulating the
ready-made, slowing the pace of design and manufacture – while
delving back into Poland’s traditional crafts – they aim to lessen its
destructive force. Seeking a balance between contemporary luxe
and the communist-era kitsch rejected by their parents, ‘Waste
Not’ showcases their talents in sewing and construction to crochet
and macramé, in a collection that mixes craft, tribal aesthetics
and global trends.
Agata Birek, Agnieszka Tomczak, Anna Kujawska, Jagoda Fryca, Kasia Kwiatkowska, Michał
Wiśniewski, Natasza Rogozińska
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Agata Birek
P H O T O G R A P H E R Katarzyna Kwiatkowska
C U R AT O R S
Agnieszka Jacobson, Wojciech Dziedzic
EXHIBITION DESIGN
Beton
Polish Cultural Institute in London, School of Form Poznan, the Adam Mickiewicz Institute / Culture.pl
www.polishculture.org.uk - www.sof.edu.pl - www.culture.pl
ORGANISED BY
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Standpoint
Romania’s ‘Standpoint’ explores the intersections between
multiple layers of the local and global – from personal and regional
introspection, to the enriching communicative and technological
opportunities afforded by the wired world. The international
language of fashion becomes a means of communicating the
unique experiences of each designer – the local distinctions that
shape their practices and the immediate surroundings of their
studios and the way they reinterpret the past. These creatives
have one foot rooted in the traditional past, but the other is firmly
grounded in a sartorial future energised by compelling conceptual
backdrops and a vital playfulness.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Smaranda Almasan
P H O T O G R A P H E R Vlad Andrei Gherman
C U R AT O R
Ancuta Sarca, Andreea Castrase, Emese Bakó, Sabina Pop, Smaranda Almasan
Romanian Design Week
EXHIBITION DESIGN
Attila Kim
Romanian Cultural Institute London, Romanian Design Week
www.icr-london.co.uk - www.institute.ro
ORGANISED BY
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A Memory of the Future
The symbols of Russia’s vast creative heritage garner newfound
appreciation in every twist and turn of this time-travelling
installation, where a new generation of Russian fashion talent
unveil slick, contemporary reinterpretations of traditional crafting
techniques. In recognition that these world-famous traditional
arts – think Vyatka nesting dolls and Vologda lacing – exist not
simply for their aesthetic beauty, but as experiments in innovation
with global potential, these designers are carrying this pioneering
spirit into the future, broadcasting their own creative message
into space for generations to come.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R NAIDAL
P H O T O G R A P H E R OlgaTarr
Artem Shumov, Lumier Garson, NAIDAL, Saint Tokyo, Turbo Yulia, ZA_ZA
C U R AT O R A N D E X H I B I T I O N D E S I G N
ORGANISED BY
Ekaterina Melnikova
Russian Fashion Council
The Embassy of the Russian Federation to the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland,
ThenAndNowShop.com
www.russianfashioncouncil.ru
SUPP ORTED BY
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Memory
The narrative of Slovakia’s IFS 2017 presentation – a shape-shifting
jigsaw of memories exploring the inspirations, intentions, thoughts
and processes behind its emerging designers’ creations – is guided
by its audience. Discover a ‘memory carrier’ – a cloth, a stone, or
even a garment – and place it in the terminal at the centre of this
interactive, haptic installation. Light, sound and tactility combine
to project evocative visions and insights into the intricacies of
Slovakian fashion design, symbolising the limitless potential of
global media technologies in enabling the country’s rising creatives
to reach ever-expanding audiences.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
C U R AT O R
D E S I G N E R Jakub Straka
P H O T O G R A P H E R Jakub Gulyas
Andrea Pojezdálová, Jakub Straka, Martin Hrča, Silvia Zrebna, Zuzana Serbák
Zuzana Šidlíková
EXHIBITION DESIGN
ORGANISED BY
Ján Šicko, Oliver Kleinert, Jonatán Pastirčák
Slovak Fashion Council
Slovak Design Centre, Slovak Design Museum, Fond na podporu umenia, Bratislava Region, Bratislavský
samosprávny kraj, The Embassy of the Slovak Republic in London, Fashion Map, Best Fashion Graduate, Provocation Bureau
SUPP ORTED BY
‘Memory’ is held under the auspices of the President of the Slovak Republic Mr. Andrej Kiska
www.slovakfashioncouncil.sk
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Incarnation
The development of Taiwan’s industrial past (known for textiles,
metals and plastics), into a modern economy spearheaded by
innovative technological research, provides the backdrop to
‘Incarnation’, a showcase honouring the country’s efforts to
push towards an increasingly sustainable outlook. Three young
creatives – a textile designer, a fashion designer and a streetwear
brand – present their unique interpretations on the theme in an
empowering, united display of optimism for the future of the
world at large.
Shao Yen, Wisdom, Yiting Chen
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
D E S I G N E R Shao Yen
P H O T O G R A P H E R Chung Lun Wu
C U R AT O R
Roxanne Chen
EXHIBITION DESIGN
Rain Wu
ORGANISED BY
Dyelog
SUPP ORTED BY
Coddy Ltd, One Fifteen, British Council Taiwan, Xie Xie Tea
www.dyelog.co.uk
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Wish You Were Here
Like many young fashion designers, Ukraine’s emerging talent
have prospered from the global nature of contemporary fashion,
where travel and international opportunities open the door to
transformative knowledge. In ‘Wish You Were Here’ they find a
place to pause, reflect and prepare for the new journeys that
emerge from their experiences. A collective image of the fantastical
bus stops found across rural Ukraine, which serve as both ad-hoc
meeting places and liminal sanctums, ‘Wish You Were Here’
reminds us that even the most familiar, everyday symbols can be
sculpted and graffitied into something distinctly local.
DESIGNERS INCLUDE
Alina Zamanova, Dzhus, FLOW the Label, FROLOV, Jean Gritsfeldt, The Coat by Katya Silchenko,
Yana Chervinska
D E S I G N E R Alina Zamanova
P H O T O G R A P H E R Sonia Plakidyuk
C U R AT I O N A N D E X H I B I T I O N D E S I G N
ORGANISED BY
Sasha Burlaka and Yana Chervinska
Ukrainian Fashion Week
Western NIS Enterprise Fund, British Council Ukraine, Embassy of Ukraine to the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Northern Ireland
www.fashionweek.ua
SUPP ORTED BY
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Austria
Chile
Czech Republic
Egypt
Guatemala
India
Korea
Poland
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Romania
Russia
Slovakia
Taiwan
Ukraine
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Austria – Designer Hvala Ilija, Photographer Rudolf Strobls
Chile – Designer SISA, Photographer Ignacio Santa Maria
Czech Republic - Designer Tereza Rosalie Kladosova, Photographer Vendula Knopova
Egypt – Designer Sabry Marouf, Photographer Malak Kabbani
Guatemala – Designer Thelma Espina, Photographer Fausto Padill
India – Designer Ka-Sha, Photographer Vaishnav Praveen
Korea – Designer Youser, Photographer Josilyn Williams
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Poland – Designer Anna Kujawska, Photographer Katarzyna Kwiatkowska
Romania – Designer Sabina Pop, Photographer Dan Cristian Gocan
Russia – Designer Saint-Tokyo, Photographer Daniil Yarochuk
Slovakia – Designer Silvia Zrebna, Photographer Lubos Kotlar
Taiwan – Designer Wisdom, Photographer Sih Wei Chen
Ukraine – Designer Yana Chervinska, Photographer Yana Tokarchuk
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Next in Line
Next in Line
Now in its third year at the International Fashion Showcase, our
‘Next in Line’ platform brings nine designers scouted from around
the world to London as part of our commitment to supporting the
most outstanding new fashion talent. Side-by-side, highly
personal interpretations of diverse cultures and local techniques
harmonise with reflections on universal experiences. The result is
a rich and valuable conversation about what it means to be a
fashion designer and, indeed, a global citizen today.
Sponsored by Bonaveri
Curated by Shonagh Marshall
Netherlands
Liselore Frowijn
Liselore Frowijn explores historic Dutch-Japanese trade in
a collection inspired by the Delft Blue tiles of a 17th century
Amsterdam canal house. The result of a summer-long crafts
exchange to the Japanese island of Kyūshū, where Frowijn
connected with local artisans in indigo-workshops, ‘SAGOI’
combines the traditional indigo techniques that influenced
the Netherlands’ renowned Delftware four centuries ago with
abstracted pastoral scenes and Shunga-inspired nudes in a
playful, sensual reunion of cultures.
Indonesia
Lekat
Amanda Indah Lestari has just one mission for her
thriving, Jakarta-based label, Lekat: to produce
thought-provoking, sustainable fashion. She accomplishes
her goal through championing traditional textiles
woven by women of the Baduy community – a protected
indigenous group living in western Banten province.
Mixing-and-matching the colourful, geometric weaves
into an experimental series of chic silhouettes, has
helped Lekat create an enduring collection with
a simultaneously pre- and post-modern aesthetic.
N O M I N AT E D B Y
SUPP ORTED BY
in London
Mercedes-Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week
The Royal Embassy of the Netherlands
PHOTOGRAPHER
N O M I N AT E D B Y
SUPP ORTED BY
Culture, Indonesia
Peter Stigter
Indonesia Fashion Forward
Ministry of Education and
PHOTOGRAPHER
Timur Angin
Panama
Londy Atelier
Kazakhstan
Creative director of Londy Atelier, Bredio Mendieta,
contemplates the laws and balance of nature through
symmetry and natural motifs in ‘Mahatma Letters’.
The collection is named after writings said to have
brought ancient wisdom and spiritual clarity to the
West via the Theosophical Society. His interest in global
exchanges is counterbalanced by local sources of
inspiration – Panama’s craft traditions and ethnic and
cultural hybridity.
Ruslan Panama
Kazakhstan’s rapidly expanding fashion industry has
propelled its emerging designers towards a revitalised,
more outward-looking approach to their craft. For
Astana-based Ruslan Panama, this means modern,
streamlined shapes with a crucial wearability designed
to make Kazakhstan’s new generation of successful,
cosmopolitan women – intrepid descendants of the
country’s nomadic past – look confident and on-trend
across the globe
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Panama
S U P P O R T E D B Y Embassy of Panama
N O M I N AT E D B Y
PHOTOGRAPHER
Etage Magazine
S U P P O R T E D B Y Embassy of Kazakhstan
N O M I N AT E D B Y
PHOTOGRAPHER
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Ruslan Panama
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Jorge Andres Rojas
Peru
Next in Line
Next in Line
Mozh Mozh
For Mozh Mozh’s AW16 ‘Rural’ collection, creative director
Mozhdeh Matin collaborated with a family of artisans
from Ayacucho, a small town close to the Peruvian Andes.
Naturally-dyed, heavy woven stripes - usually reserved for
placemats and rugs - meet traditional handloom fabrics and
baby alpaca crochet in a harmonious translation into Mozh
Mozh’s signature minimalist cuts – a vocabulary of simple,
subtle forms to live life in.
N O M I N AT E D B Y
SUPP ORTED BY
PUCP - Catholic University of Peru
British Council Peru
PHOTOGRAPHER
Uruguay
Agustina Bello-Decurnex
Christian Rinke
Montevideo-based designer Agustina Bello-Decurnex’s
signature experiments in textile manipulation become a
metaphor for the transformative power of the city’s annual
Iemanjá festivities in ‘Suddenly Carnaval’. Inspired by
fleeting metamorphoses that turn anonymous people into
performers, the collection explores the very human desire
to find moments of magic in the mundanity of everyday life.
N O M I N AT E D B Y
SUPP ORTED BY
South Africa
AKEDO
Camara de Diseno de Uruguay
British Council Uruguay
P H O T O G R A P H E R Andy Romer
AKEDO founder Eleni Labrou draws upon the cultural, linguistic
and religious pluralism of South Africa and her own mixed Greek
and South African heritage in the brand’s ready-to-wear collection,
‘African Diversity’. Contrasting clean silhouettes with handcrafted
prints and textures, AKEDO challenges the narrow ethnocentric
expectations commonly projected onto African design with a
fresh, diversified approach better attuned to the brand’s individual
identity and the intricacies of African fashion.
N O M I N AT E D B Y
Africa Fashion International
S U P P O R T E D B Y South African High Commission, London
P H O T O G R A P H E R LUCA VINCENZO
Zimbabwe
Kidd Hunta
Established in 2015, menswear label Kidd Hunta conjures the
fighting entrepreneurial spirit of Harare’s determined young
street vendors in a sartorial homage to Zimbabwean resilience.
Reclaiming the image of the noble hunter as a symbol of strength
and bravery, their collection ‘1st Street’ fuses military cuts with
elements drawn from both African and Western popular culture.
Switzerland
Vanessa Schindler
Vanessa Schindler’s experiments with urethane – a versatile synthetic
material simultaneously evocative of latex, plastic and silicone –
create an illusion of fluidity in a collection inspired by the interiors
of Bruce Goff’s Bavinger House: an organic, mid-century architectural
masterpiece of fountains, ponds and plush carpeting. The result,
‘Urethane Pool, Chapter 2’, is an excitingly radical approach
to textiles and textures, all achieved by hand in Schindler’s own
Swiss workshop.
British Council
Zimbabwe and National Gallery of Zimbabwe
N O M I N AT E D A N D S U P P O R T E D B Y
PHOTOGRAPHER
Kudzai Chakaingesu
N O M I N A T E D B Y HEAD – Geneva
S U P P O R T E D B Y Embassy of Switzerland, London and Mercedes-Benz
PHOTOGRAPHER
Myriam Ziehli
36
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38
39
Mercedes-Benz Installation
Germany
William Fan
Born and raised in Germany with proud Chinese
roots, WIlliam Fan employs the culture-clashing,
creative Utopia he finds in the dynamic scenery of
Chinatown as the ideal setting for his collection,
‘Afternoon Stories’. Fan’s ageless, unisex
aesthetic gives space to a playful interpretation
of the diverse characters and contrasts that meet
in this urban enclave – the old and new, chic and
cheap, European and Asian – each embodied
within a fusion of textures, colours and attitudes.
In a dedicated space, Mercedes-Benz showcase five emerging designers
from five countries, each supported through its International Designer
Exchange Program. Traversing the globe to show their collections
outside of their markets to an international audience these designers
capture both local and global, deftly balancing the two.
Mercedes-Benz presented William Fan in
cooperation with Fashion Council Germany at
Milano Moda Donna S/S17. William shows at
Berlin Fashion Week.
PHOTOGRAPHER
Ina Niehoff
Portugal
Canada
Steven Tai
David Ferreira
Ever since the brand’s earliest days in 2011, the
nerd has been Steven Tai’s muse. The S/S17
collection celebrates the bookworm once again but
compared to his debut collection, the designs are
more refined, more wearable, yet equally complex.
The papery texture given by panels of fabric layered
one upon the other like pages of a book, is reissued
in lighter organza, patiently hand-cut on bias, then
folded with zig-zag stitching across all hems. The
collection is meticulous, cerebral, and oddly poetic.
In his signature fantasy-couture style, David
Ferreira celebrates the traditional fado music of
Portugal and pays tribute to its pioneering diva,
a prostitute known as A Severa who popularised
the genre in the streets and taverns of 1830s
Lisbon. Derived from the Latin ‘fatum’ – meaning
‘fate’ or ‘destiny’ – and inscribed by UNESCO
as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity,
Ferreira evokes in colour, fabric and details fado’s
melancholic spirit and the tragic fate of its nearmythical heroine.
Mercedes-Benz presented Steven Tai at
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin S/S13.
Steven shows at London Fashion Week.
Mercedes-Benz awarded David Ferreira with the
Les Etoiles Mercedes-Benz Award in cooperation
with Alexis Mabille at Paris Fashion Week S/S17.
PHOTOGRAPHER
Kin Chan
PHOTOGRAPHER
Luis Eça
China
Ukraine
Angel Chen
Anna K
In this collection, Angel Chen’s fascination with
China’s distinct local identities – their traditional
dress, embroidery, ceremonies and myths – turns
to their diverse sub-Saharan counterparts. In her
second nod to African cultural traditions since
her Ugandan inspired 2014 graduate collection,
Chen’s flowing references span the beadwork
worn by Nyangatom women in Ethiopia, to the
embroidery of Cameroonian Bamileke people via
the embellished crowns of Yoruba kings.
Anna K creates a dreamy, whimsical wardrobe
complete with bows, lace and ruffles for a
coquettish Alice in Wonderland, where teasing
messages meet girl power slogans on a sugary
colour palette of pastel pinks, greens and blues.
While producing her garments locally in the
brand’s own factory, the Kiev-native has received
international attention from the get-go, having
showcased in all the major fashion capitals by the
age of just twenty-one.
Mercedes-Benz will present Angel Chen at
Milano Moda Donna A/W17. Angel shows at
Mercedes-Benz China Fashion Week.
Mercedes-Benz presented Anna K at
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid S/S17.
Anna shows at Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days.
PHOTOGRAPHER
40
Kirill Kuletski
PHOTOGRAPHER
41
Sasha Samsonova
Events
All dates and times were correct at the time of printing.
Please check design.britishcouncil.org/ifs2017 before travelling for any alterations.
At Somerset House
Satellite Events
PUBLIC EVENT
Local/Global: Intersections
Friday 17 February , 13.30–17.30
Screening Room, Embankment Entrance, Somerset House,
Victoria Embankment, London WC2R 2PH
Tickets: £8/£10
Booking: www.somersethouse.org.uk
PUBLIC EVENT
Transfashional Lab
10 February– 4 April, 09.00 –17.00 (Mon – Fri)
Austrian Cultural Forum, 28 Rutland Gate, London SW7 1PQ
A symposium in partnership with the Fashion Research Network exploring
the theme of Local/Global from fashion history and contemporary fashion
perspectives. Researchers from the Fashion Research Network will present
papers looking at Local/Global in a historical context with responses from
contemporary curators and designers.
PUBLIC EVENT
Friday Late at International Fashion Showcase
Friday 17 February, 19.00–21.00
Free, drop in
Nature Made | Made from Nature
Bonaveri presents the first biodegradable
mannequin in BPlast and BPaint.
BPlast derives from sugar cane, a natural plastic
from renewable and biodegradable resources.
BPlast mannequins are sprayed in BPaint, a
100% natural plant based product.
www.bonaveri.com/sustainability
An evening of fashion, music and activities going behind the scenes of
Local/Global during London Fashion Week. Join us as we explore fashion’s
relationship to place through some of the most talented young designers from
around the world.
The exhibition, conceived by the ACF Warsaw and curator Dobrila Denegri,
brings together emerging young artists and designers from Austria, the UK
and Poland who work at the intersection between art and fashion. The
exhibition explores the ways in which art and fashion can shape new positions
and contribute to current social, economic, cultural and environmental debates.
The pieces on display are more than just wearable and functional items;
they can be seen as tools for reflection, experimentation and self-expression.
Transfashional Lab is presented in collaboration with the Polish Cultural
Institute in London and London College of Fashion, UAL.
P R I VAT E E V E N T
Transfashional Lab: Private View
Thursday 9 February, 19.00–21.00
Austrian Cultural Forum, 28 Rutland Gate, London SW7 1PQ
RSVP: [email protected]
P R I VAT E E V E N T
V4 Fashion Experience
Saturday 18 February, 15.00–17.00
Talks and presentations exploring the current fashion landscape in the V4
countries – Slovakia, Czech Republic, Hungary and Poland.
P R I VAT E E V E N T
Millennial Moon: Private View
Sunday 19 February, 19.00–21.00
A private view of the Guatamalan showcase with a talk by the curator.
RSVP: [email protected]
P R I VAT E E V E N T
Polish Fashion Stories–Chrysalis
Monday 20 February, 11.00–12.30
Launch of Chrysalis, an art book, charting the history and evolution of fashion
in Poland from the 1920– 2017
RSVP: [email protected]
Blue Studio
+44 2073942813
[email protected]
www.blue-studio.co.uk
PUBLIC EVENT
International Fashion Showcase 2017 Spotlight Tours
16.30, 20 & 21 February
Exhibition spotlight tours with curators who will choose their highlights from
the International Fashion Showcase exhibition. Drop in. Spaces are limited,
registration form will be available on reception 30 minutes before tour start time.
43
Country Supporters and Sponsors of IFS 2017
AUSTRIA
Venue
RUSSIA
S L O VA K I A
CHILE
100%
50%
100%
50%
TA I WA N
CZECH REPUBLIC
Acknowledgments
CODDY
GLOBAL LTD.
ABOUT SOMERSET HOUSE
A B O U T FA S H I O N S C O U T
Somerset House is a unique part of the London cultural scene, a historic
building within which surprising and original work comes to life. From its 18th
century origins, it has been a centre for debate and discussion – an intellectual
powerhouse for the nation. Today, Somerset House is a key cultural destination
in London in which to experience a broad range of artistic activity, engage with
artists, designers and makers and be a part of a major creative forum. Its
unique environment is relaxed, welcoming to all and inspirational to visit, while
providing a stimulating workplace for the cultural and creative industries. Since
opening in 2000, Somerset House has built up a distinctive outdoor public
programme including Skate, concerts, an open-air film season and a diverse
range of temporary exhibitions throughout the site focusing on contemporary
culture including photography, fashion, architecture and design, with an
extensive integrated learning programme. Attracting more than 2.5 million
visitors every year, Somerset House is one of the biggest communities of
creative organisations in London, including The Courtauld Gallery and
Institute of Art, King’s College London Cultural Institute and over 100 other
creative businesses.
Fashion Scout is the leading international platform spanning London and
Paris Fashion Weeks. Scouting the most exciting new designers from across the
globe Fashion Scout presents them to the top international press and buyers
generating great media awareness and sales. From showcasing the UK’s most
promising graduates to hosting shows for IFS countries, Fashion Scout is at
the forefront of the international fashion scene, including recently pioneering
the discovery of the incredible talent from Kiev. The belief that fashion is truly
international is the driving force behind Fashion Scout. Its founder, Martyn
Roberts, is a regular guest at global fashion weeks, scouting new talent and
mentoring designers, preparing them for the international market and helping
them build sustainable business.
www.somersethouse.org.uk
Next in Line Sponsor and IFS
Official Mannequin Supplier
www.fashion-scout.co.uk
UKRAINE
B O N AV E R I
Established in 1950, Bonaveri is the world’s leading manufacturer of high
quality mannequins. The combination of manufacturing excellence with
visionary research on forms and shapes has allowed Bonaveri to participate
in and influence the birth, definition and growth of the fashion industry in
Italy and around the world. Based at Renazzo di Cento (FE), Italy, Bonaveri’s
manufacturing facility combines craftsmanship with automation. The plant
homes both laboratories that use sophisticated digital scanning techniques
and those where sculptors – working with clay, chalk and resin – give life to
the figures that dress the windows of the world’s most famous fashion streets.
This dual creative approach has a single goal: to pursue a timeless aesthetic
which is the underlying soul and identity of the mannequins. Supporting young
creative talent, as well as co-operating with fashion schools is in the Bonaveri
DNA, and the company has developed specific programs to spread the culture of
‘good shapes’ and assist new designers. In line with this, Bonaveri is supporting
the International Fashion Showcase 2016 for a second year and is the official
mannequin supplier.
Partners
EGY P T
NEXT IN LINE
G UAT E M A L A
L O N D O N C O L L E G E O F FA S H I O N : S H A P I N G L I V E S
T H R O U G H FA S H I O N
INDONESIA
PERU
K A Z A H K S TA N
SOUTH AFRICA
INDIA
NETHERLANDS
SWITZERLAND
KO R E A
U R U G U AY
POLAND
PA N A M A
ZIMBABWE
London College of Fashion, UAL is a world leader in fashion design, media and
business education. In boundary-pushing research where fashion intersects
with science, engineering, and technology, and in enterprise, where it partners
with top brands and helps launch new businesses. It has been nurturing
creative talent for over a century, offering courses in all things fashion. Across
every subject, it encourages students to examine the past and challenge the
present. To have inventive, assertive ideas that challenge social and political
agendas. It gives them the skills, opportunities – and above all, the freedom –
to put those ideas into practice.
It starts with education, with over 70 undergraduate and postgraduate
degrees, and 165 short courses. Students come from over 100 countries. Some
learn fashion design – its heritage, craftsmanship, radical thinking and hightech practice. Others develop analytical skill, creative thinking and business
acumen. Others still: cutting-edge approaches to traditional, experiential, and
interactive media. They all examine the present in light of its deep historical
context. And learn how to use fashion to build a sustainable future, and
improve the way we live.
LCF moves fashion forward, by looking beyond it. We partner with
fashion’s most successful brands and labels – both high street and luxury. LCF
graduates are in key positions across every dimension of the fashion industry,
from established designers like Jimmy Choo OBE, Sophia Webster and JW
Anderson to rising stars like Ryan Lo and respected entrepreneur and former
Chairman of the British Fashion Council, Harold Tillman CBE as well as fashion
journalists Melanie Rickey and Sarah Harris.
In the next five years, LCF are moving to a single site at Queen
Elizabeth Olympic Park in east London. There we will continue to do what
we do today. Pioneer how we all consume and practice fashion. Use fashion
design, business and media to shape culture, economics, and society.
And through fashion, shape lives.
www.bonaveri.com
Exhibition Suppliers
MICHELMERSH BRICK HOLDINGS PLC
As ‘Britain’s Brick Specialists’, Michelmersh Brick Holdings PLC unites the best
in clay traditions. The UK’s largest producer of hand made and machine bricks
and pavers, we are also leaders in clay tiles, special shaped bricks, Terra Cotta
and special products. We have grown and innovated from brands that enjoy rich
heritages, and have become some of the most trusted names behind today’s
prestigious built environments. The latest technology and new designs let us
satisfy wider audiences and still retain our reputation for beautiful, durable,
natural looking clay pieces.
www.arts.ac.uk/fashion
ROMANIA
44
45
Acknowledgements
Commissioned by Sarah Mann, Director Architecture Design Fashion,
British Council and Caroline Rush, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council
and presented by Mercedes-Benz.
I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA S H I O N S H O W C A S E P R O J E C T T E A M
Anna Orsini — Strategic Consultant, British Fashion Council
Niamh Tuft — Fashion Programme Manager, British Council
Jacob De Munnik — Project Assistant, British Council
Monique Ricketts — Project Assistant, British Council
F O R P R E S S E N Q U I R I E S P L E A S E C O N TA C T
About IFS
Rebecca Ward
[email protected]
International Fashion Showcase 2017
ABOUT THE BRITISH COUNCIL
17–21 February, 10.00–18.00 daily
West Wing Galleries, Somerset House
The British Council global arts team works with the best of British creative talent
to develop innovative, high-quality events and collaborations that link thousands
of artists and cultural institutions around the world, drawing them into a closer
relationship with the UK. The British Council creates international opportunities for
the people of the UK and other countries and builds trust between them worldwide.
We are a Royal Charter charity, established as the UK’s international organisation
for educational opportunities and cultural relations. Our 7,000 staff, in over 100
countries, work with thousands of professionals and policy-makers and millions of
young people every year through English, arts, education and society programmes.
We earn more than 75% of our annual turnover of nearly £700 million from services
which customers pay for, education and development contracts we bid for and from
partnerships. A UK Government grant provides the remaining 25%. We match every £1
of core public funding with more than £3 earned in pursuit of our charitable purpose.
www.britishcouncil.org
(Closed between 11:00–15:00,
Sunday 19 February for a private event)
Ukraine
About British Council
Mary Doherty — Press Officer, British Council
[email protected]
About British Fashion Council
Michalis Zodiatis — PR Executive, British Fashion Council
[email protected]
About Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Davina Wedderburn — Senior Account Director
[email protected]
About Somerset House
Stephanie Lilley— Acting Head of PR
[email protected]
SPONSORSHIP
Charlotte Wren — Development Manager (Arts, British Council)
Katie Cavanagh — Sponsorship Coordinator, British Fashion Council
C O L L A B O R AT O R S
Faye Toogood — Exhibition Design
Amy Preston and Amélie Bonhomme — Graphic Design
The Whitewall Company — Production
Shonagh Marshall — Next in Line Curator
Jihane Dyer — Writer
Katie Kova — Award Design
Poland
Egypt
A B O U T T H E B R I T I S H FA S H I O N C O U N C I L
The British Fashion Council (BFC) was set up in 1983 to promote British fashion
internationally and co-ordinate this promotion through fashion weeks, designer
showrooms and showcasing events. The BFC now supports designers beginning at
college level and extending to talent identification, business support and showcasing
schemes to help British designer businesses develop their profiles and business
globally and promote British fashion and its influential role in Britain and London.
The BFC Colleges Council offers support to students through its Foundation, BA
and MA scholarships, links with industry through design competitions and Graduate
Preview Day. Talent identification and business support schemes include BFC
Fashion Film sponsored by River Island; BFC Rock Vault; BFC Headonism; BFC/GQ
Designer Menswear Fund; BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and NEWGEN. The
BFC supports Boden’s Future British initiative. The BFC also runs and owns charities
including the BFC Fashion Arts Foundation, the BFC Fashion Trust and the BFC
Education Foundation. Showcasing initiatives and events include London Fashion
Week, London Fashion Week Men’s, LONDON show ROOMS, International Fashion
Showcase, London Fashion Week Festival and the annual celebration of excellence in
the fashion industry: The Fashion Awards.
www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk
Korea
Entrance
West Wing
Galleries
Mercedes-Benz
installation
Taiwan
Next in
Line
Czech
Republic
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
Mannequins — Bonaveri
Bricks — Michelmersh Brick Holdings PLC
Fabric — Kvadrat
Cafe — Tom’s Kitchen
Cafe Furniture - Retrouvius
With special thanks to Sarah Mower MBE for her continued guidance.
WE WOULD ALSO LIKE TO THANK
The embassies, project organisers, designers, curators and exhibition sponsors
participating in the showcase and all speakers and contributors to IFS events.
Alistair O’Neill, Anders Christian Madsen, Andrea Bonaveri, Andrew Carter,
Amelia Veness, Ashish Gupta, Ashley Elliot, Barbara Grispini, Claire Catterall,
Eleanor Oxford, Fabio Piras, Faye Toogood, Hannah Sunter, Jan Rose, Joao
Guarantani, Jon Crawford, Karla Otto, Lee Roach, Mandi Lennard, Martyn
Roberts, Marzia Riccheri, Michelle Dorrington, Miriam Bouteba, Natalie
Kingham, Nemo Monti, Nick Vinson, Paul Yuille, Robb Young, Saida Bruce,
Samantha Conti, Shonagh Marshall, Stavros Karelis, Vicky Richardson,
Yesenia San Juan, Zowie Broach and all those who have made IFS 2017 possible.
ABOUT MERCEDES-BENZ
Over the past 21 years, Mercedes-Benz has established itself as a global partner
and title sponsor of many fashion weeks and events. The brand is currently involved
in more than 50 fashion platforms globally, including Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Weeks in Sydney, Beijing, Kiev, Tbilisi, Moscow and Berlin, as well as the acclaimed
International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères. Mercedes-Benz
continues to support global fashion events and platforms and, over the course of
two decades, has become renowned for promoting talented new designers. As part
of its global fashion commitment, Mercedes-Benz also supports young and talented
fashion designers through the Mercedes-Benz International Designer Exchange
Programme. The programme offers emerging designers a unique opportunity to
present their collections to an international audience outside their local markets.
Launched in 2009, the Mercedes-Benz International Designer Exchange Programme
is active across all of the Mercedes-Benz supported fashion platforms. The MercedesBenz International Designer Exchange Programme is often supported by an award
programme initiated by Mercedes-Benz and underpinned by a panel of experts.
Mercedes-Benz is committed to nurturing and mentoring emerging design talent,
and the International Designer Exchange Programme reinforces the brand’s
commitment to this.
www.mercedesbenz.com/fashion
46
Café
Russia
India
Austria
Guatemala
Slovakia
Chile
Romania
47
presented by
@british_design @britishfashioncouncil @londonfashionwk @mbfw (instagram) @mbfwofficial (twitter) #ifs2017 #localglobal #mercedesbenzfashion