VIETNAM 12 FEBRUARY – 5 MARCH 2011 TOUR REPORT LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON During the latest Birdquest to Vietnam, we explored the south, centre and north of the country for three and a half weeks. This year the weather was more normal: no heat-wave in the centre, but fog at Tam Dao! We were also fogged-out at Ba Vi, but fortunately there was no rain throughout the entire trip. Wintering species were a bit short again in the north, and access to wetlands was difficult at Cat Tien, but we still managed to chalk-up a very respectable 384 species. Highlights among the many regional or near-endemics included Orange-necked Partridge, Germain’s Peacock-pheasant, Red-vented and Annam Barbets (the latter split from Black-browed), Red-collared Woodpecker, Bar-bellied Pitta, Annam Shrikebabbler (split from White-browed), White-winged Magpie, Ratchet-tailed Treepie, Vietnamese Greenfinch, Yellow-billed Nuthatch, Grey-crowned Tit, Limestone Warbler (split from Sulphur-breasted), Indochinese Wren-babbler (formerly Short-tailed Scimitar Babbler), Sooty Babbler, Grey-faced Titbabbler, Orange-breasted, Collared, Black-hooded and White-cheeked Laughingthrushes, Vietnamese Cutia (split from Himalayan Cutia), Grey-crowned Crocias, Black-crowned Fulvetta (split from Rufouswinged), Black-browed Fulvetta, Black-crowned Barwing, and Black-crowned Parrotbill. Other highlights included superb scope views of calling Chinese Francolins, tame Scaly-breasted Partridges, great views of six Siamese Firebacks, several stunning Green Peafowl, Pied Falconet, Hodgson’s Frogmouth, Greeneared Barbet, an amazing Eared Pitta, Swinhoe’s Minivet, Slender-billed Oriole, Indochinese Bushlark, Grey-backed Thrush, Green Cochoa, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Fujian Niltava, Vinous-breasted and Goldencrested Mynas, Grey-crowned, Bianchi’s, Plain-tailed, White-spectacled and Grey-cheeked Warblers, Short-tailed Parrotbill, Masked and Grey Laughingthrushes, Orange-billed Scimitar-, Coral-billed Scimitar-, Limestone Wren- and Spot-necked Babblers, Rufous-throated Fulvetta, Rufous-backed and Black-headed Sibias, Chestnut-collared Yuhina (split from Striated), and Fork-tailed Sunbird. The highlights among the non-birds included Stump-tailed Macaque, Buff-cheeked Gibbon, Blackshanked Douc Langur, the restricted-range Hatinh Leaf Monkey and, for the third year running, the endangered Delacour’s Leaf Monkey. Again this year, we encountered numerous butterflies (c.70 species), particularly at Deo Nui San and Cat Tien National Park. The tour began with us all meeting-up outside the arrivals hall at Sai Gon (Ho Chi Minh City) airport, and we then immediately set off on the long drive to Da Lat, the capital of the Southern Highlands. Few birds 1 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 of note were seen along the way as usual, and we arrived at the Da Lat Hotel Du Parc not too long after dark. We were soon enjoying our first of many excellent meals at this pleasant hotel. Once again we began birding in the pine forests surrounding Ho Tuyen Lam, a secluded reservoir to the south-west of Da Lat. This is a great place to kick-off a tour, with some ‘easy’ birding in the rather open pine forests. However, we did manage to get a few kilometres under our belt and ascend a steep hill, in search of broadleaved evergreen forest patches. A great selection of birds flowed-in during the morning, highlighted by excellent views of Grey-crowned Crocias, Vietnamese Cutia and Annam Shrike-babbler in the same flock. There were also several Brown Prinias around, after a dip on the previous tour, and surprisingly high numbers of leucotis Eurasian Jays and Slender-billed Orioles. A female Vietnamese Greenfinch was watched nest-building, while the male sang nearby, and we had prolonged views of the impressive meridionalis Red Crossbill. Other goodies included our first Red-vented Barbets, local forms of Burmese Shrike, Long-tailed Minivet and Green-backed Tit, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, and our first Grey-crowned Tits. The second morning saw us heading-up in jeeps to Mt Lang Bian, with the endemic Collared Laughingthrush in our sights. We were fortunate this year, as three birds showed pretty well as soon as we entered the forest. This bought us more of the early morning than usual, to look for other specialities, and we duly bagged the local form of White-spectacled Warbler (in the process of being split), the excellent little Black-crowned Fulvetta, and a pair of Black-headed Sibias. Most welcome perhaps, were the unexpected multiple sightings of Yellow-billed Nuthatch, a regional endemic that became very hard to see at this site after the forest was damaged in the early 1990s. Perhaps things are improving again. After lunch, we descended the mountain and drove the relatively short distance to Ta Nung Valley, near Cam Ly. It was surprisingly birdy for the time of day. Large numbers of Annam Barbets were feeding on various fruits, as were numerous bulbuls and a lot of Asian Fairy-bluebirds. A Mountain Hawk-eagle that glided over calling, was a good sighting, but Grey-cheeked Warbler and Hill Prinia were playing hard-toget. As dusk approached we positioned ourselves, and the night birds started up. Before this however, we had nice looks at an Indian Giant Flying-squirrel, including a long spotlight view of it sailing out of a tall tree. Grey Nightjar started calling and was tempted overhead, and then we had a good look at an agitated male Large-tailed Nightjar. Both Collared and Mountain Scops-owls sang distantly. Eventually several Hodgson’s Frogmouths began calling, but unfortunately we were out of luck, and an hour of continuous effort produced nothing. The next morning saw us return to Ta Nung Valley, where there is normally a good deal of early morning activity, and this was certainly the case during our latest visit. We started off by trying to get some views of a vocal pair of Orange-breasted Laughingthrushes, with limited success. Standing at the forest edge we had better luck with a range of birds including a nice group of Rufous-backed Sibias and a couple more Grey-crowned Crocias - though the latter were more distant than at Tuyen Lam. As things warmed-up, we took a trail into the forest along a stream. A flock of Black-hooded Laughingthrushes were relatively uncooperative but showed for some. After lunch, we drove back along the road to Sai Gon and checked into a small but perfectly adequate Vietnamese Hotel in Di Linh. After a quick turn-around, we had some time to explore the ricefields and scrub next to the town. It was surprisingly birdy, with highlights including two Chestnut-eared Buntings, a big flock of Plain-backed Sparrows, and many Red-throated Pipits flying around later on. Lineated Barbet was also unexpected. The following day was a long one as we were out from dawn until after dark along the Phan Thiet road, south of Di Linh. Most of our birding was done around the excellent forested pass referred to as Deo Nui 2 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 San. When we first visited this site in 1991, the road was but a dirt track, and the logistics of reaching it were a bit of a nightmare. Things could hardly be different now, and there are even plans for an ecotourism ‘resort’. The weather was overcast and a bit breezy early on, which resulted in no dawn ‘explosion’ of activity. Still, we gradually found some good birds. A small group of very vocal Blackhooded Laughingthrushes showed extremely well and we had more success with another pair of Orangebreasted Laughingthrushes. A good number of Yellow-vented Pigeons were seen in flight, with one pair low and back-lit being particularly satisfying. A perched Indian Cuckoo was unexpected. We ate lunch at a small tea-shop by a stream, which attracted a good number of butterflies. Following a trail from there into the forest we heard some good birds, but struggled to see any. A roosting Brown Boobook was a bonus though. In the late afternoon it was quite birdy as we walked back up to the pass. We waited until nightfall and then walked down from the pass towards Di Linh. Playing the sound of Hodgson’s Frogmouth quickly solicited a response, and we soon had the bird perched above us, though facing away. The ensuing excitement unfortunately scared the bird away! Still this was a new site for the species, which was only discovered in the Southern Highlands of Vietnam a few years ago. The following day we had time for a few more hours up at the pass. The weather was much better, with a ‘normal’ dawn. As we ate breakfast, a Green Cochoa started-up nearby and after a short wait it flew up into a tree by the road, where we all had scope views. Surprisingly, it was a first summer bird, in exactly the same place that we saw one last year. Other good roadside additions to our growing list were a pair of the klossi race of Blue-throated Flycatcher, and several Plain-tailed Warblers. In the forest we spent a good while tracking a Rufous-browed Flycatcher, with limited success. While doing so, we had great views of a foraging flock of Long-tailed Broadbills. Just before 10am we headed off for Cat Tien National Park, where we arrived shortly after lunch. Our introductory birding drive in the park proved quite eventful. Although we were primarily looking for Green Peafowl, we actually went one better and had walk-away scope views of a calling Chinese Francolin in a small tree. Several peafowl also showed, with two well-trained males and another bird scoped in its roost-tree. A Common Hoopoe was also good here, and some flowering Bombax trees held Hair-crested Drongos and a single Golden-crested Myna. As dusk fell a patrolling Great Eared Nightjar emerged early to give nice looks. We spent our first morning in the national park at C6, a seasonally flooded area of freshwater swamp forest in the centre of the park. Unfortunately, the swathes of invasive Giant Mimosa Mimosa pigra scrub had not been cleared recently, which seriously inhibited our progress in the area. All we managed were rather fleeting views of Ruddy-breasted Crake, Rusty-rumped Warbler, and Black-browed Reed-warbler. An Oriental Darter flying overhead was good. Back inside the forest we tried for a Germain’s Peacockpheasant that was calling loudly, but it soon got spooked when it saw us. We had more success walking along the main park track for a couple of hours. Some foraging Ashy-headed Green-pigeons and a male Violet Cuckoo were scoped, and we had great prolonged views of a highly responsive group of Dusky Broadbills. Bird-waves held our first Grey-faced Tit-babblers and a Two-barred Warbler. On the way back to headquarters, a group of three male and two female Siamese Firebacks showed themselves remarkably well and there was another male further on. Just before returning, the drivers showed us an incubating Orange-breasted Trogon in its nest-cavity! The afternoon took us along the road to Da Ko. Things were slow of course, but we flushed two Lesser Fish-eagles and had our first glimpses of Blackshanked Douc Langur. For much of the next day we walked the forested trail to Crocodile Lake for two kilometres. Before entering the forest we did a little birding along the road. This was much more birdy than inside the forest of course. A pair of Banded Kingfishers responded well and sat around, while a pair of Blue-bearded Bee-eaters were a bit more tricky, Great Hornbill glided low overhead, and we had a big group of Black- 3 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 shanked Douc Langurs. Inside the forest we had poor luck. Only two Bar-bellied Pittas appeared poorly for a few of us, and Scaly-breasted Partridge was only seen from the front of the line. Hainan Blue Flycatcher and the indochinensis race of Scaly-breasted Babbler obliged, and some shy Northern Pigtailed Macaques showed through gaps. It was hotter than the previous day and the vegetation looked stressed and dry in places. Rain clouds gathered at dusk and there was distant thunder; Blyth’s Frogmouth called from un-viewable dense mid-storey and only randomly. On our third morning at Cat Tien, we drove down to Da Ko guard station for dawn and walked back to Heaven Rapids. In the more open areas we had good looks at a female Orange-breasted Green-pigeon, three noisy Great Slaty Woodpeckers performing their strange antics, two male Van Hasselt’s Sunbirds, several showy Great Ioras, Tickell’s Blue Flycatchers, Puff-throated and Abbott’s Babblers, and Rufescent Prinia. Further on we found the highlight of the day, a pair of calling Orange-necked Partridges at the edge of a bamboo-covered hill. Most if not all of us managed some kind of view as the birds were luredin. This is only the second time the species has been recorded on the tour. Things started to tail-off in the forest proper but we managed to see a Lesser Fish-eagle perched at the rapids, and scoped a Greater Yellownape. In the afternoon, we went west and exited the park gate, to work cultivation and the park edge. This was a really birdy area, with highlights including a singing Indochinese Bushlark, a distant Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Grey-faced Buzzard, flocks of Little Ringed Plovers and Wood Sandpipers overhead, Plain-backed Sparrow, Richard’s Pipit, four White-vented Mynas, Vinous-breasted Myna, Black-collared Starling etc. etc. During the drive back to the park we found that there were now two calling Chinese Francolins in small trees and had several nice Great Eared Nightjars low overhead. Before leaving Cat Tien we had another morning along the Crocodile Lake trail. This time we hit a rich vein of luck, and by 0800 hrs we had notched-up good views of Scaly-breasted Partridge, Germain’s Peacock-pheasant, and Bar-bellied Pitta. The former were as tame as ever, with the same pair seen twice, the peacock-pheasant came in very close to investigate, and a female pitta hung around for a long time after a male had been seen more fleetingly. Back out on the road we saw Orange-breasted Trogon and more Black-shanked Douc Langurs, but struggled to get views of Pale-headed and Laced Woodpeckers and Black-and-red Broadbill. From Cat Tien we returned to Sai Gon and after over-nighting at the renowned Rex Hotel, flew north to Da Nang, from where we drove to Kham Duc, our gateway to the spectacular Central Highlands of Vietnam. A two-and-a-half hour drive took us to Kham Duc and, after an early lunch, we drove up to the Loxo pass. Walking a short distance from where we parked, we soon located our target bird, the restricted-range near-endemic Black-crowned Barwing, and proceeded to get lengthy scope views of a pair. A nearby flowering Bombax tree was attracting a lot of avian interest, and we were able to scope Golden-throated Barbet, both Golden-fronted and Orange-bellied Leafbirds, Maroon Oriole, Vinousbreasted Myna, and Streaked Spiderhunter. At the nearby waterfall were a pair of Plumbeous Waterredstarts and a nice Blue Whistling-thrush. Raptors included Black Eagle, Grey-faced Buzzard, and a distant Black Baza. Our attempts to go birding along the Dak Blo Road were thwarted by a recently erected guard-post with a barrier, manned by various authorities. After lengthy discussions between them and our Vietnamese colleagues we eventually resolved to return with permission to go birding there the following morning. We finished-off back along the main road, just adding Black-winged Cuckooshrike. The next morning we arrived at the Dak Blo Road before dawn and did a 10.5km round trip walk. It was a sunny morning and we had great views of the superb forested surroundings, but activity waned surprisingly quickly and it became rather hot. Highlights were several calling Crested Argus, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Small Niltava, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Rufous-backed Sibia, Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler, and new races for us of Black-throated and Mrs Gould’s Sunbirds. 4 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 We headed back to Kham Duc for lunch and then set off for Lang Co, passing through the impressive Hai Van Tunnel, and arriving at Lang Co Beach Resort mid-afternoon. We had time for a look around the hotel grounds and, this year, we found Japanese Thrush, Chinese Blackbird, some leucocephalus whiteheaded Himalayan Black Bulbuls and hybrids with the all-black sinensis, several Grey-capped Greenfinches flying over, and a group of Masked Laughingthrushes. Early the next morning we drove the relatively short distance to Bach Ma National Park. It was day 13 of the tour and, on-cue, there was some bad luck along the road, with a major road-block. Fortunately we were able to turn back and take an alternative route, and arrived up at KM5 in the park not that much later than on the previous tour. Our first trail was a narrow one, but we soon heard the distinctive piping of an Indochinese Wren-babbler. It had moved since last year and, after much trail-blazing, still refused to budge. We explored the (real) ‘Pheasant Trail’ instead. Luckily there was another wren-babbler, and this one was keen to play! There was some really nice forest along this trail and some very interesting plants flowering, but the birds were very few and far between. White-winged Magpie, Ratchet-tailed Treepie, and the gayeti race of Sultan Tit were tantalizing ‘heard onlys’. After a nice lunch at headquarters we explored another route through plantations and cultivation to a trail leading into secondary forest from behind a popular waterfall. Regular trawling with partridge calls eventually triggered-off the much wanted Annam Partridge at exceedingly close range, but the bird inexplicably shut-up and gave not another site nor sound - very strange! The cultivation produced a Pintail Snipe, good views of Racket-tailed Treepie, Crimson Sunbird, and there were both Masked and White-crested Laughingthrushes. Before the long drive to Phong Nha-Khe Bang National Park, we had another opportunity to look around the grounds at Lang Co Beach Resort. It was very birdy and we clocked-up more new birds for the trip than we had seen during the whole of the previous day! A couple of Kentish Plovers on the beach were a write-in and there was Black-capped Kingfisher there too. A run-down pagoda-style roof was home to a group of White-shouldered starlings and nearby we briefly lured-out a singing Manchurian Bush-warbler. A pair of Barred Buttonquails showed surprisingly well and we also saw Plaintive Cuckoo, Light-vented Bulbul and Japanese Tit (split from Great). The long drive to Phong-Nha Ke Bang NP was broken by a good lunch at an interesting local restaurant in Dong Ha. We made good time, and arrived the ‘West Gate’ of the park in time to do a couple of hours birding. Working the limestone outcrops next to the road, we soon encountered our main target-bird, the little-known Sooty Babbler, which is only found in this habitat and region, and had good looks at seven or so. Looking the other way, across the rich-blue river, we spent a long time scoping a group of five rare Hatinh Leaf Monkeys that were slowly making their way to their roosting area, and having a last feed before bed! Some Grey-headed Lapwings and a philippensis Blue Rock-thrush were also nice. This year we stayed at a hotel close to the national park, so it was an easy return drive the following morning to search for the recently described Limestone Warbler. We soon found four singing birds but three of them were across the river, and we could only manage extremely distant views. A calling Hodgson’s Hawk-cuckoo also managed to stay frustratingly out of site. A pair of the undescribed limestone form of Green-backed Tit did show nicely though and we had more Sooty Babblers. We had much better luck with mammals, getting superb close scope views of two Hatinh Leaf Monkeys and then lengthy views of a troupe of normally very shy Stump-tailed Macaques. We returned to the hotel for an early lunch, spotting a Black-eared Kite and huge female Peregrine Falcon in the process. Refreshed, we drove right into the park as far as the Hang 8 Co Temple. From here, we followed the track towards the Laos border. We soon came close to limestone outcrops, and here we had great views of two pairs of Limestone Warblers. A Drongo-cuckoo performed really well, but the biggest surprise followed shortly after, when two Red-collared Woodpeckers were heard drumming. After some coaxing, the male 5 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 swooped out right in front of us, showing his red crown and nape, but further work failed to produce any more views, apart from one more in flight for the leader. We headed off as quickly as possible, to a hotel in Dong Ha, on the way to Hue Airport, arriving in the early evening. The following morning we left quite early for Hue Airport, arriving in plenty of time for the 0800 departure. An hour later, we were in Ha Noi. With time on our hands, we decided to visit the ‘Red River Islands’ on the way to Ha Noi. The river backwaters were surprisingly devoid of people and there was some excellent habitat for migrants. Freshwater waders included a nice Temminck’s Stint, while a variety of wagtails were highlighted by a good number of Citrines in various plumages. Also of interest were Black Kite, Lesser Pied Kingfisher, Red-throated Pipit, Chestnut Munia, and Yellow-bellied Prinia. We continued on to Cuc Phuong National Park, stopping for a couple of hours at Van Long Nature Reserve. It was a nice sunny afternoon and, with the light behind us, we had a great view of the marsh and limestone country behind it. Once again, the avian highlight was a roosting congregation of 4,0005,000 egrets. On top of this, we had unusually good views of a feeding White-browed Crake right in the open, and there were a good number of Pheasant-tailed Jacanas. As evening approached, we settled down to scan the rocky limestone terrain. Eventually the distinctive form of a Delacour’s Leaf Monkey appeared, and we were soon watching a group of 12, including three babies, two of which were still tiny and orange-brown, though already able to clamber about alone. This Vietnamese endemic is one of the rarest primates in the world, with only 150-180 animals known to survive. The next two mornings were spent around the Bong area, deep in the heart of Cuc Phuong National Park. Thankfully the weather was much better than last time, though a bit misty early on. Wintering thrushes were very few, and we could only find a few Japanese after extensive searching; but we did well otherwise. No doubt the highlight for many was the Eared Pitta that showed so well, while defending its territory, though a fine male Silver Pheasant managed to evade all the participants on the same day! In the clearings we had multiple views of two good corvids, White-winged Magpie and Ratchet-tailed Treepie, and we found Pied Falconets in three places, with a total of five or six birds. Inside the forest we had many vocalizing Rufous-throated Fulvettas and Limestone Wren-babblers, while a nice male Fujian Niltava was seen by half of us. On our final morning we explored some areas closer to headquarters. The forest edge proved a good hunting ground for warblers, and we saw Russet Bush-, and Grey-crowned well, with Bianchi’s a bit more elusive. In some isolated bamboo clumps we tempted-in a nice Spotnecked Babbler. More Ratchet-tailed Treepies showed really well during the morning. Before lunch we visited the Endangered Primate Rescue Centre where Vietnam’s endemic and rare leaf-monkeys and gibbons are rehabilitated and bred after being impounded from illegal traders. It really is an excellent facility. From Cuc Phuong we had a longer than expected drive to Ba Vi National Park, due to the poor condition of some of the back-roads and we were glad to arrive there in the early evening. The next morning, we ascended Ba Vi with high hopes. Unfortunately these were to be well and truly dashed this year, as we were stuffed by dense fog over the entire mountain! All that we could manage high up were close views of a singing Eyebrowed Wren-babbler, and a few Japanese Thrushes and Chinese Blackbirds. Rufouscheeked Laughingthrush was singing but distantly. Moving lower down didn’t help much, adding a scoped White’s Thrush and misty views of Red-billed Blue Magpie and Japanese Tit, though we could at least get some coffee. Back at the Tan Da Spa Resort we found some commoner odds-and-ends around the property, including Light-vented Bulbul, Japanese White-eye, Taiga Flycatcher and Dusky Warbler. After lunch at our hotel we drove to Tam Dao National Park. We had an hour or so spare, and decided to check the mixed plantations and native forest re-growth bushes at the lower levels. Almost immediately we found a smart male Grey-backed Thrush in with some Japanese Thrushes. Continuing on up the hill, we checked into our new accommodation just before the town. 6 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 We only had one full day at Tam Dao and unfortunately, we got totally fogged-out! Birding was a real struggle during the morning, along the Three Peaks road and the trail through the ‘Bamboo Forest’. The birds were quiet and unresponsive to Collared Owlet, being too intent on feeding in the dull and cool conditions. A noisy group of Coral-billed Scimitar-babblers showed surprisingly well, but apart from that it was very misty views of David’s Fulvettas and a flock of Grey Laughingthrushes crossing the road. After lunch we moved to lower levels, which was fog-free and more birdy. Better views were had of the fulvetta and we also saw Himalayan Buzzard, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Silver-eared Mesia and Greycrowned Warblers etc. Before leaving for the airport we spent a couple more hours birding, but were thwarted by the dreaded fog again. We did manage to get views of a hyperactive little flock of Short-tailed Parrotbills, but it was all too brief. We reflected back on more successful days earlier in the trip! 7 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PHASIANIDAE Chinese Francolin Francolinus pintadeanus: Superb scope views of a calling bird in a small tree, right out in the open, at Cat Tien NP. We also heard another here, and more at Tuyen Lam. Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis (H): Heard fairly distantly this year on Mt Lang Bian. Bar-backed Partridge Arborophila brunneopectus (H): Several were heard distantly in the ‘Ta Nung Valley' near Cam Ly, and Deo Nui San, and another at Tam Dao. Orange-necked Partridge Arborophila davidi: For only the second time on the tour, we managed to find this rare near-endemic. A pair were lured-in at the edge of bamboo-dominated forest along the Da Ko Road, Cat Tien National Park, giving some pretty good views. Chestnut-necklaced Partridge Arborophila charltonii (H): Small numbers were heard at Cuc Phuong NP, including a couple at really close range, that we were sure were going to show! Annam Partridge Arborophila merlini (H): One that called at very close range at Bach Ma National Park, refused to budge. Scaly-breasted Partridge Arborophila chloropus: At Cat Tien National Park, we found two pairs along the Crocodile Lake Trail, and so one of them twice at very close range. Others were heard. South Indochinese cognacqi. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Small numbers at Cat Tien, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, and Cuc Phuong National Parks. Heard at Dak Blo Road. Most were South Indochinese nominate gallus, with the prominent white ear-patch, but those at Cuc Phuong were more typical jabouilleia. Silver Pheasant Lophura nycthemera: By an unfortunate chain of events, everyone managed to miss-out on a male crossing the road at Cuc Phuong. Siamese Fireback Lophura diardi: Another good tour for this superb pheasant at Cat Tien NP, with two encounters and six birds seen; right out on the road. Germain’s Peacock-pheasant Polyplectron germaini: Finally some decent views of a bird along the Crocodile Lake Trail, after a couple of poor years. Also fleeting views for some along the forest trail to C6. Crested Argus Rheinardia ocellata (H): At least three males were heard giving their very loud territorial call at Loxo, but unfortunately well out of reach. Green Peafowl Pavo muticus: Three at Cat Tien NP, on our first afternoon, including one scoped in its roost-tree. DENDROCYGNIDAE Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica: About 20 or so at C6, in Cat Tien NP. ANATIDAE Garganey Anas querquedula: One at Van Long Marsh. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: A flock of about 25 at Van Long Marsh. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Small numbers at Tuyen Lam , the Red River Islands, Van Long Marsh, Tan Da Spa Resort, and Tam Dao. A pair were feeding two smallish chicks at the former site. 8 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 CICONIIDAE Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Only one or two at Cat Tien NP. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: Just a single bird along the main park road at Cat Tien. ARDEIDAE Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: Two flushed at Cat Tien NP. Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax (H): One was heard flying over predawn at Tan Da Spa Resort. Chinese Pond-heron Ardeola bacchus: Common throughout; one of the most frequently recorded species. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: This recent split was seen in suitable habitat throughout. A very impressive gathering of at least 3,000-4,000 birds was seen at Van Long Marsh. Formerly, this form was lumped in Western Cattle Egret B. ibis using the name Cattle Egret for the enlarged species. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: About six at Cat Tien, one on the way from Lang Co to Dong Ha, 30 at Van Long Marsh, and one at Tan Da Spa Resort. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: About six at Cat Tien NP. Great Egret (Great White E) Ardea alba: Frequently seen in small numbers. The highest concentration was at least 100 plus at Van Long. Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia: One at Di Linh, and several in the north. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Common, particularly in the north. PHALACROCORACIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Just one at C6 in Cat Tien NP. FALCONIDAE Pied Falconet Microhierax melanoleucos: Scope views of five this year, with one at Bong, another on the way there, and three near the headquarters. Common Kestrel (Eurasian K) Falco tinnunculus: Singles at the Red River Islands and Van Long Nature Reserve. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: A single wintering adult female was seen at Xuan Son, Phong Nha-Ke Bang. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: At least one at Tuyen Lam and small numbers at Cat Tien National Park. Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes: A distant soaring bird at Loxo Pass. Oriental Honey-buzzard (Crested H-B) Pernis ptilorhyncus: Five at Cat Tien NP, and one during the journey there from Di Linh. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Two in fields at Di Linh, several at Cat Tien NP, and one on the way from Hue to Dong Ha. Black Kite Milvus migrans: One on the way from Phong Nha to Dong Hoi, two at the Red River Islands, and a couple more on the way to Cuc Phuong from Ha Noi Airport. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: An adult outside our hotel at Xuan Son, Phong Nha. White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: One sub-adult bird soaring over Tuyen lam reservoir.. Lesser Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga humilis: A pair were flushed from their riverside perch at Heaven Rapids, in Cat Tien NP; with one seen again around the river-bend. Grey-headed Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus: A distant soaring bird in the western buff-zone of Cat Tien NP. Crested Serpent-eagle Spilornis cheela: Regular records throughout. 9 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: A calling male at Deo Nui San, two at Cat Tien NP, and three birds at Cuc Phuong NP – a good year. Shikra Accipiter badius: Four sightings at Cat Tien NP, and one during the journey from Sai Gon to Da Lat. Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus: Just a single bird in cultivated areas west of Cat Tien NP. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus: Two at Tam Dao. A recent split from Common Buzzard B. buteo, along with Japanese Buzzard B. japonicus, which is considered a Japanese resident. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Several sightings of this well-fingered under-canopy specialist in the southern and central highlands, and at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Mountain Hawk-eagle Nisaetus nipalensis: Nice flight views of one flying overhead at Ta Nung Valley, a hunting bird at Phong Nha-Ke Bang, and one perched at Bong, in Cuc Phuong NP. RALLIDAE White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: One briefly along the beginning of the Dak Blo Road, and another in ricefields at Bach Ma NP. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca: Two were heard giving their Little Grebe-like whinnying calls at C6, in Cat Tien National Park, and one showed itself briefly. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea: One showed really well at Van Long Marsh. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: At least 10 at Van Long Marsh. Common Coot Fulica atra: 15 at Van Long. TURNICIDAE Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: A nice pair in the garden at Lang Co Beach Resort. VANELLIDAE Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Seven on the river by the west gate at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Two at both Cat Tien and Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP’s. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Five flying over cultivation bordering Cat Tien NP, and five at the Red River Islands – where they appeared to be breeding. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Two distantly on the beach at Lang Co Beach Resort. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana plumage. Hydrophasianus chirurgus: At least 17 at Van Long Marsh, in non-breeding SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola: One was flushed by our mini-bus a couple of times on the way up Ba Vi in the fog! Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: One seen well in flight at Bach Ma NP. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: One flushed several times at the Red River Islands. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus (NL): Ed heard one at Lang Co Beach Resort. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: One along the river at Heaven Rapids, in Cat Tien, and another at the Red River Islands. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: One at C6, Cat Tien NP, one in ricefields at Bach Ma NP, several at The Red River Islands, and also heard at Tan Da Beach Resort. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Just a single calling bird at Tan Da Spa Resort. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: At least 51 in two flocks over cultivation just west of Cat Tien. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: One at The Red River Islands was an unexpected write-in. 10 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (R Dove) Columba livia: Common near human habitation throughout. Red Collared-dove Streptopelia tranquebarica: Huge numbers at Cat Tien, with over 450 seen Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Regularly seen throughout. Barred Cuckoo-dove Macropygia unchall: Small numbers in the southern highlands. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A scattering throughout. Orange-breasted Green-pigeon Treron bicincta: A single female near Da Ko, in Cat Tien NP. Ashy-headed Green-pigeon Treron phayrei: Several were seen well at Cat Tien NP. This was formerly Pompadour Green-pigeon T. pompadora, but Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) have calved the former species into at least four, with three endemic to the Indian subcontinent and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Thick-billed Green-pigeon Treron curvirostra: A pair at Ta Nung Valley, and then common at Cat Tien. Yellow-vented Green-pigeon Treron seimundi: Nine were seen, mainly in flight, at Deo Nui San. Indochinese modestus. Wedge-tailed Green-pigeon Treron sphenura: A pair at Tuyen Lam briefly. South Indochinese delacouri. Green Imperial-pigeon Ducula aenea: Good numbers again this year at Cat Tien NP, with over 30 seen. Perhaps it is increasing again after being poached heavily in during the park’s early years. Mountain Imperial-pigeon Ducula badia: Frequently recorded in the Southern and Central Highlands. PSITTACIDAE Vernal Hanging-parrot Loriculus vernalis: Common at Cat Tien NP, where a pair were seen at a nest-hole that was being eyed-up by a pair of Golden-crested Myna! Otherwise a few at Deo Nui San. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Common at Cat Tien NP, particularly in afternoon flights on the outskirts of the park. CUCULIDAE Large Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: A single leader-only bird during the drive up Mt Lang Bian, and a distant bird scoped at C6 in Cat Tien NP. Hodgson’s Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx nisicolor (H): Just a single vociferous but invisible bird at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus: A silent bird was seen several times and scoped at Deo Nui San.. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii: One was seen at Cuc Phuong NP headquarters. Regularly heard giving its familiar song throughout. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: Scattered throughout, but the only one seen was a male that came in nicely at Lang Co. Asian Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx maculatus: Three, including a female scoped, at Dak Blo Road, and a male at Phong Nha. Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus: Good scope views of a male at Cat Tien. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: Two flew over at Dak Blo Road, in response to playback, and then one showed really well at Phong Nha, quivering its wings in excitement. Heard at Deo Nui San and Bach Ma NP. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus (H): One was calling on the south-west edge of Cat Tien NP. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: Regularly seen throughout. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Regularly recorded throughout. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: A couple in grassland at Cat Tien NP, and also found at Tuyen Lam. 11 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 STRIGIFORMES Mountain Scops-owl Otus spilocephalus (H): Singles were heard at Ta Nung Valley, Deo Nui San, and the Dak Blo Road. Collared Scops-owl Otus lettia (H): One calling at Ta Nung Valley, and two at Cuc Phuong NP. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei: One was seen by a couple of us at Deo Nui San. Regularly heard throughout. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: Scope views of a calling bird at Tuyen Lam, and one spotlighted after dark at Cat Tien. Heard at Phong Nha and Cuc Phuong NP’s. Brown Boobook (B Hawk Owl) Ninox scutulata: A calling bird at its day-roost at Deo Nui San was a bonus, and we heard another there. One seen and several heard at Cat Tien. PODARGIDAE Hodgson’s Frogmouth Batrachostomus hodgsoni: One spotlighted just below the pass at Deo Nui San. Close but standing in a rather awkward position. Three were heard near Cam Ly. Blyth’s Frogmouth Batrachostomus affinis (H): Although one called very close to us at Cat Tien National Park, it just wouldn’t call enough, and its preferred dense mid-storey perch proved too hard to locate. CAPRIMULGIDAE Great Eared-nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis: A few at Cat Tien NP, particularly over the grasslands and clearings at dusk. Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus jotaka: One flew over us at dusk, at Ta Nung Valley, near Cam Ly. Heard at Dak Blo Road. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: Great looks at a male at Ta Nung Valley, one or two at Deo Nui San, and several at Cat Tien NP. Also heard at Di Linh. APODIDAE Germain’s Swiftlet Aerodramus germani: Just one at Cat Tien NP, but then great low flight views of several in really good light at Lang Co. Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis: Good flight views at Dak Blo. Asian Palm-swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Scattered sightings, with a minimum of 15 at Cat Tien NP. Fork-tailed Swift (Pacific S) Apus pacificus: A few at Loxo, quite common at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP, and a couple over a distant ridge at Cuc Phuong NP. House Swift Apus nipalensis: Scattered sightings of this widespread swift. TROGONIDAE Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios: The drivers at Cat Tien showed us an incubating male on its nest in a large open cavity in a dead tree. Another male was scoped, and others were heard in the park. Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus: Seen fleetingly at Deo Nui San, and better but mistily at Tam Dao. Frequently heard. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Quite common in open areas at Cat Tien; and another during the drive from Sai Gon to Da Lat. Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: Frequently seen at Cat Tien NP. ALCEDINIDAE Banded Kingfisher Lacedo pulchella: At Cat Tien NP, we had lengthy scope views of a pair, and several others were heard. Another was heard at Deo Nui San. 12 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis: One seen and a couple heard at Cat Tien NP. White-throated Kingfisher (W-breasted K) Halcyon smyrnensis: Regular sightings throughout. Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata: One at the back of the beach at Lang Co. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: A common winter visitor, particularly in the north. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Just one this year, at the Red River Islands. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: A flighty pair at Cat Tien NP. Heard at Deo Nui San. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: Easily seen by the river at Cat Tien NP. Also flying over at Deo Nui San, and during journeys in the centre of Vietnam. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe Upupa epops: One at Cat Tien NP was a write-in! BUCEROTIDAE Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: Common and easily seen at Cat Tien NP. Heard at Phong Nha-Ke Bang. Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis: Up to four singles flying low overhead at Cat Tien. MEGALAIMIDAE Red-vented Barbet Megalaima lagrandieri: This hunky regional endemic was seen well a number of times in the Southern Highlands. Heard at Cuc Phuong NP. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: Fairly common at Cat Tien but, more surprisingly, two were seen in gardens and scrub surrounding fields at Di Linh. Green-eared Barbet Megalaima faiostricta: Several were scoped at Cuc Phuong, and the green ears seen! Heard at Cat Tien. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: Two that were seen well on Mt Lang Bian were endemic auricularis. Also seen very well at Loxo, where the race is uncertain, though clearly very similar to the latter. Heard at Tam Dao. Annam Barbet Megalaima annamensis: Common to abundant in the southern highlands. Part of the splitting-up of the former Black-browed Barbet M. oorti. Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis: One at Deo Nui San, and a few at Cat Tien NP, where it was commonly heard. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala (H): Only heard at Cat Tien this time. PICIDAE White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea: Two of these wonderful little woodpeckers in bamboo at Cat Tien, another along the Dak Blo Road, and one at Cuc Phuong NP. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus: A couple at Tuyen Lam, a female at excavating a nest-hole at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP, and a few at Cuc Phuong NP; the latter two of the distinctive northern race kaleensis. Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus (H): Two were drumming along the Da Ko Road at Cat Tien. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: One was scoped and two were seen in flight at Cat Tien NP. Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus (H): Somehow evaded us this year, with just one heard at Cat Tien NP. Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus (H): Heard in the southern highland pine forests. Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus: Two were seen poorly in flight at Cat Tien. Also heard there and at Phong Nha. 13 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Red-collared Woodpecker Picus rabieri: Finally getting this elusive regional endemic on the Birdquest list was a major achievement. We saw a male well in flight several times at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Another was heard close by, and both were drumming. Common Flameback Dinopium javanense: A female and two single males separately at Cat Tien NP. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus: Small numbers in the south, but very flighty. Heard at Cuc Phuong. Pale-headed Woodpecker Gecinulus grantia: A pair at Cat Tien proved too elusive for us. Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: Singles showed briefly at Tuyen Lam and Ta Nung Valley. Often heard. Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente (H): Heard distantly twice at Cat Tien, but unresponsive. Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: A good performer at Cat Tien this time. As is often the case, there were three together. EURYLAIMIDAE Dusky Broadbill Corydon sumatranus: Great views of this amazing bird at Cat Tien NP, a flock of about six. Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae: Lengthy views of this tail-flicking stunner for a change, at Deo Nui San; where eight or so were seen and others heard. Silver-breasted Broadbill Serilophus lunatus (H): A couple were heard out of reach at Cuc Phuong NP. Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos: Two at Cat Tien were difficult to get onto. Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus: Lengthy scope views of one at Cat Tien. PITTIDAE Blue Pitta Pitta cyanea (H): Unfortunately, we only heard this much wanted species at Deo Nui San. Blue-rumped Pitta Pitta soror (H): One was vocalizing along the Crocodile Lake trail at Cat Tien, and we heard others at Bach Ma and Cuc Phuong NP’s. Bar-bellied Pitta Pitta ellioti: Four birds were found as we slowly walked the Crocodile Lake trail at Cat Tien National Park, with a female being seen well for prolonged periods. Also many heard and one seen hopping away at Cuc Phuong. Eared Pitta Anthocincla phayrei: The great views that we managed to get of a singing bird at Cuc Phuong NP, was surely one of the highlights of the tour. This is not an easy bird to get, and it is only the second time that it has been seen on the tour. VIREONIDAE Blyth’s Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus: Subspecies ricketti was heard at Ba Vi. This is the most widespread form in the reformed ‘White-browed’ Shrike-babbler, ranging from east Nepal to China and south to Peninsular Malaysia and Sabah. Annam Shrike-babbler (Da Lat S-b) Pteruthius flaviscapis: Small numbers were seen in the Southern Highlands. Heard around Loxo. Recent genetic studies have clearly shown that shrikebabblers are vireos, and not remotely related to babblers. Other studies (summarized in Rheindt & Eaton 2009: Species limits in Pteruthius (Aves: Corvida) shrike-babblers: a comparison between the Biological and Phylogenetic Species Concepts) have clearly demonstrated the need to split-up of the former White-browed Shrike-babbler P. flaviscapis. Chestnut-fronted Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aenobarbus: Small numbers in the Southern Highlands were endemic indochinensis. White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca: Regularly seen throughout, but particularly in the centre and north of the country. Distinctly dark tyrannula in the north, and southern Indochinese sordida in the south. Formerly called White-bellied Yuhina, it has recently been demonstrated that it is not a yuhina, or even a babbler, being related instead to vireos. 14 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 CAMPEPHAGIDAE Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: Pairs at Tuyen Lam and Cuc Phuong NP, but neither seen well. Indochinese Cuckooshrike Coracina polioptera: Several sightings in the south, particularly in the pine forests of Tuyen Lam. Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos: Quite common around Loxo, and also heard at Bach Ma NP. Swinhoe’s Minivet Pericrocotus cantonensis: Quite common in the south this year, with the largest numbers at Deo Nui San. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: A flock of about eight in cultivated areas by Bach Ma NP. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris: A handful of endemic deignani in the Southern and Central Highlands. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: This attractive species was frequently seen in or near the pine forests of the Southern Highlands. The distinctive local race annamensis. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus: Scattered regular sightings. Note the name change, following the separation of the nominate race in the Indian Subcontinent. ORIOLIDAE Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris: Common in the pine forest at Tuyen Lam, and seen exceedingly well. Endemic South Vietnamese invisus. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Three at Cat Tien NP. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: A handful at Cat Tien. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Locally common in the Southern and Central Highlands, particularly at Deo Nui San; one at Cuc Phuong NP. ARTAMIDAE Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus: Regularly encountered in small congregations in the south and centre, including Loxo. GENERA INCERTAE SEDIS Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis: Small numbers in the south and at Cuc Phuong NP. The race in the south was mekongensis, while in the north we saw hainanus. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus: Regular sightings throughout. AEGITHINIDAE Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: At least a couple at Tuyen Lam, and quite common around the edge at Cat Tien. Great Iora Aegithina lafresnayei: Commonly found in bird-waves at Cat Tien and a couple at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP’s. RHIPIDURIDAE White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Regular sightings of southern Indochinese cinerascens in the Southern Highlands. Heard at the Red River Islands. DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Scattered in open areas in the south and centre of Vietnam. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: The most widespread drongo species. A single pale grey migrant salangensis was noted at Deo Nui San. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: Scattered sightings. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Small numbers in the Southern Highlands. 15 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: Regular sightings at lowland forest sites, and particularly common at Cat Tien. Bigger, with a bigger crest in the north. Hair-crested Drongo (Spangled D) Dicrurus hottentottus: A good number around flowering Bombax trees at Cat Tien. MONARCHIDAE Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: Frequently recorded, mainly in the lowlands. Asian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: A few in the southern lowlands. CORVIDAE Southern Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Small numbers on the way to Kham Duc, and Loxo. Crows are rare in Vietnam, and presumably heavily persecuted. The old Large-billed Crow has now been carved-up into several species, following Rasmussen & Anderton (2005), Birds of South Asia. Although it is thought to be this taxon in Indochina, the situation is not 100% clear, and Eastern Jungle Crow C. levaillantii may occur. Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: Unusually common this year in the southern highlands, and very conspicuous. The highly distinctive black-capped leucotis race. Indochinese Green Magpie Cissa hypoleuca (H): Exceptionally elusive this year, only being heard at Deo Nui San. Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha: A few at Ba Vi and Tam Dao NP’s. White-winged Magpie Urocissa whiteheadi: We finally tracked down a foraging flock at the edge of the large clearing at Bong, in Cuc Phuong NP. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia: A small number at Cat Tien, and then better views of several not far from the headquarters of Bach Ma NP. Ratchet-tailed Treepie Temnurus temnurus: Multiple views at Cuc Phuong this year, with at least ten seen. Heard at Phong Nha and Tam Dao. Following the bird-waves as usual. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: Regular sightings throughout, mainly along roadsides, and in open areas at Cat Tien. Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides: Small numbers in the Southern Highlands. The distinctive, dark endemic nigricapillus. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Commonly encountered in the centre of Vietnam. NECTARINIIDAE Van Hasselt’s Sunbird Leptocoma brasiliana: Several males of this split from Purple-throated Sunbird N. sperata, at Cat Tien NP. Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis: A pair feeding young in a nest at Di Linh, several at Cat Tien, and a male at Lang Co Beach Resort. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: Small numbers of tonkinensis at Bach Ma, Phong Nha and Cuc Phuong NP’s. Mrs Gould’s Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae: What a stunner. The south Indochinese race annamensis was common in the Southern Highlands, and seen collecting nest-material at Deo Nui San. Also seen in along the Dak Blo Road, but not sure which race there. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata: The distinctive red-breasted race johnsi, was found in small numbers in the Southern Highlands, while the more typical-looking ochra was seen near Loxo. Fork-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga christinae: Frequently encountered at Cuc Phuong NP, and one or two in the fog at Tam Dao. The default sunbird in the north. 16 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis: A small number at Cat Tien, including three males that Sieghard saw displaying together. Purple-naped Sunbird Hypogramma hypogrammicum: Several of these streaky-jobs at Cat Tien NP and some good views. Subspecies mariae of Cochinchina. Heard at Cuc Phuong (lisettae). Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra: Typically fleeting sightings at Cat Tien, but one showed well when it came to investigate the calls of Asian Barred Owlet. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna: Just a few in the southern highlands again this year. Endemic remota. DICAEIDAE Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: A couple all too briefly in bamboo at Cat Tien. Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor: The usual small numbers at Cuc Phuong NP. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (Buff-bellied F) Dicaeum ignipectus: Small numbers of this widespread species in montane areas. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum: A handful at Cat Tien NP. CHLOROPSEIDAE Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis: Occasional sightings in southern lowland forests. Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: Only heard singing at Cat Tien NP, but then seen really well in flowering trees around Loxo. Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii: Sieghard and Gudrun saw a pair at Tuyen Lam, and then we found plenty at Loxo. The former subspecies remains undocumented, while those at Loxo were melliana. IRENIDAE Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella: Scattered sightings, particularly at Ta Nung Valley and Cat Tien NP. ESTRILDIDAE White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: Best seen drinking at the edge of grassland on the Red River Islands, but also in bamboo at Cat Tien NP. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: Quite a few at Tuyen Lam, and also seen at Di Linh, The Red River Islands and Cuc Phuong and Tam Dao NP’s. Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla: One bombing over at the Red River Islands. PASSERIDAE Plain-backed Sparrow Passer flaveolus: Good numbers of this nice-looking sparrow in ricefields at Di Linh and at the edge of Cat Tien NP. Eurasian Tree-sparrow Passer montanus: Frequently seen around habitation. MOTACILLIDAE Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: About twenty flying around the ricefields at Di Linh and then much better looks at about ten at the Red River Islands. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Regular sightings of this common winterer from Siberia. Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi: We put up five in the cultivated areas on the outskirts of Cat Tien NP. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Usually encountered whenever we birded open cultivation. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis: Common at the Red River Islands, near Ha Noi and also three in ricefields near Cuc Phuong. Swinhoe’s Wagtail Motacilla [alba] ocularis: Two at the Red River Islands. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Many sightings of wintering cinerea. 17 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Manchurian Wagtail Motacilla [flava] macronyx: Eight at the Red River Islands, and another at Bong, Cuc Phuong NP. Included in Eastern Yellow Wagtail M. tschutschensis by Robson (2008). Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola: At least 12 at the Red River Islands were a nice bonus. FRINGILLIDAE Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra: Great views again this year, with many at Tuyen Lam, and Mt Lang Bian. With the nearest crossbill populations in North Myanmar, the large meridionalis race must be one of the most isolated in the world, and a good bet for a future split. Grey-capped Greenfinch Chloris sinica: Elusive at Lang Co Beach Resort, and only seen in flight calling. Vietnamese Greenfinch Chloris monguilloti: Small numbers a s usual in the southern pin forest; the best views being of a female nest-building, while the male looked on and sang, at Tuyen Lam. EMBERIZIDAE Chestnut-eared Bunting Emberiza fucata: Two in ricefields at Di Linh were unexpected, and also very skulking! SITTIDAE Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Scattered sightings of this attractive nuthatch. Yellow-billed Nuthatch Sitta solangiae: A jackpot year for this regional endemic, with no less than three separate sightings on Mt Lang Bian, accounting for at least two pairs. Our best sighting of the species at this site for decades! Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis: Frequently seen in the pine forests of the Da Lat Plateau. The southern montane isolate race grisiventris. STURNIDAE Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus: About 15 were counted in cultivated areas between Cuc Phuong and Ba Vi. White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis: Four on the south-western outskirts of Cat Tien NP were good and we had small numbers in cultivation around Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: More sightings of this Vietnamese scarcity this year. Two en route from Sai Gon to Da Lat, and about 12 at Di Linh, including a pair collecting nest-material. Vinous-breasted Myna Acridotheres burmannicus: Two at Di Linh, at least six at Cat Tien NP, and five in the Loxo area. A very attractive starling. Black-collared Starling Gracupica nigricollis: Easily and well seen at Tuyen Lam, Di Linh, Cat Tien and Loxo. White-shouldered Starling Sturnus sinensis: About ten in the garden at Lang Co Beach Resort, a couple en route to Dong Ha, and a pair around Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Golden-crested Myna Ampeliceps coronatus: Just nine at Cat Tien NP. Common Hill-myna Gracula religiosa: Only heard once at Cat Tien, but we scoped a pair at Cuc Phuong NP. An active nest-site of this popular cage-bird was seen at the former. TURDIDAE White’s Thrush Zoothera aurea: Barely glimpsed at Cuc Phuong NP this year, we had more luck with it at Ba Vi and Tam Dao. This, the migrant Siberian form, is now considered distinct from the mainly sedentary forms in the region (Scaly or Small-billed Scaly Thrush Z. dauma). Chinese Blackbird (Mandarin B) Turdus mandarinus: A few around the Lang Co Beach Resort and at Bach Ma NP, and also seen near Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP and at Ba Vi. A split from Eurasian or Common Blackbird T. merula, following Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) Birds of South Asia. 18 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Grey-backed Thrush Turdus hortulorum: Just one male with a few of the next species lower down at Tam Dao NP. Japanese Thrush Turdus cardis: A scattering at Lang Co Beach Resort, and Cuc Phuong, Ba Vi and Tam Dao NP’s. Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus (H): Heard flying over at Deo Nui San. Green Cochoa Cochoa viridis: Superb scope views of a calling first-summer female at Deo Nui San. MUSCICAPIDAE Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys (H): Regularly heard in the Southern and Central Highlands, and also at Cuc Phuong NP. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope: Great views of several at Cuc Phuong NP this year, including a couple of excellent males. Often heard throughout. Siberian Blue Robin Luscinia cyane: One female-type was seen all too briefly along the Crocodile Lake Trail. Others were heard at Cat Tien NP. Rufous-tailed Robin Luscinia sibilans: One showed quite well in a bamboo clump a Cuc Phuong NP - for those that managed to get onto it! Plumbeous Water-redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosa: A pair at the large waterfall at Loxo. Blue Rock-thrush Monticola solitarius: Ed spotted a male philippensis at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP and it obliged in the scope. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea: Small numbers in the Southern Highlands, and also at Cuc Phuong NP. Eastern Stonechat (Siberian S) Saxicola maura: Scattered sightings of this recently split winter visitor. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata: At least four in grassland and cultivation at Cat Tien NP. Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus: Eluded most of us on the stream at Ta Nung Valley. Blue Whistling-thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Singles at Deo Nui San, Loxo, Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP, and Tam Dao; the latter of the black-billed nominate race. Hainan Blue Flycatcher Cyornis hainanus: Small numbers at Cat Tien National Park. Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis concolor: Great views of a highly responsive male at Dak Blo Road, near Loxo, and others heard singing there. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae: A few showed nicely along the Da Ko Road, at Cat Tien. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: We eventually had good views of a male and female at Deo Nui San. This was the very distinctive subspecies klossi, which is endemic to S Laos and southern Vietnam. White-tailed Flycatcher Cyornis concretus (H): Tough this time with several singing males proving unresponsive at Cuc Phuong NP. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus: Occasional sightings throughout. Fujian Niltava Niltava davidi: A nice male at Cuc Phuong NP zipped off before we could all get onto it. Large Niltava Niltava grandis: A few in the Southern Highlands. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae: Common along the Dak Blo Road. Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula mugimaki: One seen by the leader and one heard at Tuyen Lam, but very scarce this year. Rufous-browed Flycatcher Ficedula solitaris: Most of us got onto one singing from rather dense understorey at Deo Nui San. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: The subspecies langbianis, of South Laos and South Annam, was common in the Southern Highlands. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor (H): One was calling from scrub at the lower levels at Tam Dao NP. Taiga Flycatcher (Red-throated F) Ficedula albicilla: Another poor year, with only four scattered records. Ferruginous Flycatcher Muscicapa ferruginea: A pair of these richly-hued flycatchers along the Dak Blo Road. Hey probably breed there. 19 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa latirostris: A few at Cat Tien, and one at Lang Co Beach Resort. Another seen in the hospital grounds in Da Lat may have been of a resident form but was unfortunately missed by Craig. Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis: Regular sightings, but more so in the north. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: Common at lowland sites. PARIDAE Japanese Tit Parus minor: Small numbers of commixtus from Lang Co northwards; a recent split from Great Tit P. major. I mistakenly called the ones at Lang Co Grey Tit P. cinereus. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: Quite common in the pine forests of the Southern Highlands; the distinctive endemic race legendrei, with much black below. At Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP, we also had great views of a pair of the undescribed ‘lowland limestone form’ which extends from here into Laos. Two different birds were seen carrying food at Tuyen Lam. Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus: Three at Mt Lang Bian were South Indochinese basileus. Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea: This stunner was seen well in the end at Cuc Phuong NP (sultanea). This form was also heard at several other sites, while at Bach Ma NP, we heard the blackcrested race gayeti along the Pheasant Trail STENOSTIRIDAE Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher (Grey-h F) Culicicapa ceylonensis: Regularly seen throughout. ALAUDIDAE Indochinese Bushlark Mirafra erythrocephala: A single singing bird in cultivation on the outskirts of Cat Tien NP. This is the first time that we have found this SE Asian endemic for a long long time. PYCNONOTIDAE Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: Regular sightings. In the south, we saw the race johnsi, of eastern Thailand and south Indochina, while in the north we saw vantynei. Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni: Occasional sightings in the lowlands. Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens: Common in the Southern Highlands, with the race sordidus being endemic to S Laos and South Annam. 20 in the Central highlands were presumably the more widespread vividus. Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi: Small numbers at Cat Tien NP. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: Regularly recorded throughout. Large dark hainanus in the north. Light-vented Bulbul (Chinese B) Pycnonotus sinensis: Ten at Lang Co, two at Van Long Marsh, and one at Tan Da Spa Resort all appeared to be hainanus. Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Frequent. In the south we saw germaini, with yellow undertail-coverts, while in the north they were resurrectus, with red undertail-coverts. Grey-eyed Bulbul Iole propinqua: Regular sightings at the more lowland sites this year. In the south we saw South Indochinese simulator, while in the centre they were propinqua and at Cuc Phuong NP aquilornis. Puff-throated Bulbul Alophoixus pallidus: At all sites from Bach Ma onwards. Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus: Small numbers of endemic hallae (which most closely resembles Puff-throated) in the south. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: Quite common in the Southern Highlands; the race remotus, which is endemic to S Laos and South Annam. Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii: Small numbers in the Southern Highlands were of the endemic subspecies griseiventer. 20 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Himalayan Black Bulbul (Black B) Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Widespread in montane areas throughout (concolor). Wintering white-headed and -breasted leucothorax were seen at Tuyen Lam and Cuc Phuong, and mixed groups of presumed leucothorax and hybrids with sinensis at Lang Co and Cuc Phuong NP. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: A common and widespread winter visitor. Red-rumped/Striated Swallow Hirundo daurica/striolata: A few distant un-identifiable birds at Cat Tien. CETTIDAE Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris: A pair in bamboo, as usual, at Cuc Phuong NP. Vietnamese euthymus. Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus: Small numbers in montane areas from Mt Lang Bian to Tam Dao. DNA research has clearly shown that this species is not a tailorbird, not that this would come as any surprise to those who know the bird. Brownish-flanked Bush-warbler Cettia fortipes: Seen very well at Cuc Phuong and Tam Dao NP’s. Subspecies davidiana. Manchurian Bush-warbler Cettia canturians: Seen at Lang Co Beach Resort and Cuc Phuong NP, with more heard at both locations. Pale-footed Bush-warbler Cettia pallidipes (H): Elusive singles giving their rattling alarm at Cuc Phuong and Tam Dao NP’s. Asian Stubtail Urosphena squameiceps: One sneak near Bong, Cuc Phuong NP - showed itself to a few of us. Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer: Quite good views of two at Mt Lang Bian. Heard at Dak Blo Road, near Loxo. AEGITHALIDAE Grey-crowned Tit Aegithalos annamensis: Common in the Southern Highlands, and a pair along the Dak Blo Road. This Indochinese endemic, was formerly lumped in Black-throated Tit A. concinnus. PHYLLOSCOPIDAE Bianchi’s Warbler Seicercus valentini: Frequently encountered at Cuc Phuong NP and also heard lower down at Tam Dao. Plain-tailed Warbler Seicercus soror: Three seen at Deo Nui San, and others heard. Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus: Plenty this year at Cuc Phuong and Tam Dao NP’s. White-spectacled Warbler Seicercus affinis: Frequently encountered this year on Mt Lang Bian. This is the endemic race ocularis, which differs genetically and vocally from Himalayan birds, and will eventually be split-off. Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys: Small numbers in the Southern and Central Highlands, and also at Ba Vi NP. The populations in the south and centre of Vietnam have different vocalizations from Himalayan birds (Ba Vi), and are likely to be split in future. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: A few in the Southern and Central Highlands. Limestone Warbler Phylloscopus calciatilis: We struggled at first with this karst specialist but eventually had excellent views of two pairs at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. This is a recent split from Sulphur-breasted Warbler P. ricketti. White-tailed Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus ogilviegranti: Endemic klossi was quite common in the Southern and Central Highlands. A recent split from Phylloscopus davisoni, but retaining the common name. The latter is now Davison’s. 21 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Blyth’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: Singles were seen at Mt Lang Bian, Ta Nung Valley, and Deo Nui San. The race ticehursti. Pale-legged Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tenellipes: A few of these rather elusive understorey-inhabiting warblers at Cat Tien NP. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus: Small numbers wintering at Cat Tien NP. Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis: One of these neat little Phylloscs on Mt Lang Bian. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: One of the most frequently recorded species on the tour, and one of the most widespread birds in Vietnam in the winter. Pallas’s Warbler Phylloscopus proregulus: A couple through the fog at Tam Dao. Radde’s Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi: A really tame individual was watched feeding by the roadside at Cat Tien NP. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus: Occasional by water, at widespread locations. TIMALIIDAE Black-crowned Parrotbill Psittiparus margaritae: This attractive near-endemic parrotbill was seen several times at Deo Nui San. A recent split from Grey-headed. Short-tailed Parrotbill Neosuthora davidianus: A hyper-active handful, briefly in the fog at Tam Dao. Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonica: Quite common from Kham Duc and Lang Co Beach Resort northwards. Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta: Four gave nice views along the Dak Blo Road. Heard at Deo Nui San. Chestnut-collared Yuhina Yuhina torqueola: This recent split from Striated Yuhina Y. castaniceps was seen at Phong Nha-Ke Bang and Tam Dao NP’s; though only in flight at the latter site. David’s Fulvetta (Schaeffer’s F) Alcippe davidi: Common at Tam Dao. A recent split from Grey-cheeked Fulvetta A. fratercula. A morrisonia is now Morrison’s Fulvetta, following Zou et al. (2007) Molecular phylogenetic analysis of the Grey-cheeked Fulvetta (Alcippe morrisonia) of China and Indochina: A case of remarkable genetic divergence in a “species”. Molecular Phylogenetics and Evolution 44: 165-174. Mountain Fulvetta Alcippe peracensis: The Indochinese race annamensis was common in the Southern Highlands and also seen in the Central Highlands. Black-browed Fulvetta Alcippe grotei: Small numbers at Bach Ma and Cuc Phuong NP’s. This distinctive lowland species is a fairly recent split from Mountain Fulvetta. Rufous-throated Fulvetta Alcippe rufogularis: Several of these smart little babblers at Cuc Phuong NP, where it is common. North Indochinese stevensi. Sooty Babbler Stachyris herberti: Very easily seen at Phong Nha Ke-Bang NP, with several groups totalling at least 13 birds. A limestone specialist that is restricted to this region of Vietnam, and adjacent Laos. Spot-necked Babbler Stachyris striolata: Great views of one in a bamboo clump at Cuc Phuong NP. Heard often, from Bach Ma NP onwards. An attractive species when seen properly. Subspecies tonkinensis throughout. Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps: Occasional sightings. In the Southern Highlands, we saw the endemic race rileyi. Large Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos (H): Several heard, but not a sniff again. White-browed Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: Three on Mt Lang Bian were of the endemic race annamensis. Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: A pair came out really well at Ba Vi, but unfortunately we couldn’t see for the fog! Seen less well at Tam Dao, but heard a lot there Orange-billed Scimitar-babbler (Red-billed S B) Pomatorhinus ochraceiceps: Three alius showed pretty well from the road at Deo Nui San. 22 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus: A pair of endemic white-breasted dickinsoni were seen by most of us along the Dak Blo Road, and we also managed good looks at four orientalis, with their warm buff underparts, at Tam Dao - even though it was foggy. Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla (H): We heard several annamensis in the Southern Highlands. Golden Babbler Stachyridopsis chrysaea (H): Due to the fog, we only managed to hear it at Tam Dao NP. Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyridopsis ruficeps: Endemic pagana was frequently encountered in the Southern Highlands, and there were also a few heard at Loxo. Pin-striped Tit-babbler (Striped T B) Macronus gularis: Common throughout. South Indochinese versuricola at Cat Tien etc., and lutescens in the north. Grey-faced Tit-babbler Macronus kelleyi: Nearly 30 of these Indochinese endemics were logged at Cat Tien NP this year. Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata: Excellent views of three right in the open at Tuyen Lam, and heard at Cat Tien NP. Subspecies was dictator, of eastern Thailand and south Indochina. Buff-breasted Babbler Pellorneum tickelli: Heard at Cat Tien, and one seen at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps: Great views of dilloni at Cat Tien NP. Heard in the north. Spot-throated Babbler Pellorneum albiventre: No real views this year unfortunately. Scattered in the south and centre. Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum: Small numbers of indochinense in the mid-storey at Cat Tien, Bach Ma, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, and Cuc Phuong NP’s. Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti: One abbotti was seen really well at Cat Tien NP. Limestone Wren-babbler Gypsophila crispifrons: We had several encounters at Cuc Phuong NP, and saw at least five birds. Very commonly heard this year. The Indochinese subspecies annamensis. Streaked Wren-babbler Napothera brevicaudata (H): Many heard at Phong Nha-Ke Bang and also at Cuc Phuong NP. Eyebrowed Wren-babbler Napothera epilepidota: Prolonged good views of a singing amyae at Ba Vi NP. Indochinese Wren-babbler (Short-tailed Scimitar Babbler) Rimator danjoui: One performed around the leader along the Pheasant trail at Bach Ma, and another was heard along another trail nearby. This bird is not closely related to scimitar-babblers, and the proposition that it formed a link between wren-babblers and scimitar-babblers was a ridiculous one. Collared Babbler Gampsorhynchus torquatus (H): Just one or two heard calling from some bamboo at Tam Dao – the first time that I have missed it. This is a recent split from White-hooded Babbler G. rufulus. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Pseudominla castaneceps: A single bird of the recently described subspecies stepanyani along the Dak Blo Road. Black-crowned Fulvetta Pseudominla klossi: On Mt Lang Bian, we had good views of six of this recent split from Rufous-winged Fulvetta A. castaneceps; exploring moss-covered branches for their invertebrate food. It is larger than the latter, shows a blackish base colour to the crown, lacks the rufous wing-panel and has mostly blackish wing-coverts. Vietnamese Cutia Cutia legalleni: Three of these cripplers at Tuyen Lam, and a pair at Mt Lang Bian – all in pines. This is a recent split from Himalayan Cutia C. nipalensis. Black-throated Laughingthrush Dryonastes chinensis: Typically elusive. Two flew across the road at Phong Nha-Ke Bang, and we heard it close at Tam Dao NP. White-cheeked Laughingthrush Dryonastes vassali: A nice big flock was seen twice at Tuyen Lam. This southern Indochinese endemic may be increasing, following the deterioration of primary forest into more secondary formations. Rufous-cheeked Laughingthrush Dryonastes castanotis (H): Heard distantly and down-slope at Ba Vi. Grey Laughingthrush Dryonastes maesi: Rather inadequate views in the fog at Tam Dao NP. 23 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Black-hooded Laughingthrush Dryonastes milleti: Multiple superb looks in the south, mainly at Deo Nui San. A very attractive Lao-Vietnamese endemic. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: Commonly heard in the lowlands, and seen on a number of occasions. Masked Laughingthrush Garrulax perspicillatus: Three in the garden at the Lang Co Beach Resort, and another flying across the road on the way to Hue. Heard at Bach Ma NP. Orange-breasted Laughingthrush Stactocichla annamensis: A very vocal pair were tempted-in at Ta Nung Valley, and we also had a long session with a pair at Deo Nui San. Collared Laughingthrush Trochalopteron yersini: This year, we succeeded in seeing this skulking endemic as soon as we arrived in the habitat at Mt Lang Bian. At least three seen. Blue-winged Siva (B-w Minla) Siva cyanouroptera: Small numbers seen in the Southern Highlands were of the endemic race, orientalis, which has no blue on the wings or head! A single bluewinged wingatei was seen near Loxo. Silver-eared Mesia Mesia argentauris: A few seen at Dak Blo Road and Tam Dao NP. The races cunhaci and ricketti respectively. Grey-crowned Crocias Crocias langbianis: Brilliant views of three calling together in pines bordering broadleaved evergreen forest at Tuyen Lam. Funny watching them snuggling-up and allopreening. We also had another two in a bird flock at Ta Nung Valley. Black-headed Sibia Malacias desgodinsi: A pair were seen really well on Mt Lang Bian. The race robinsoni, with bold white eyering and ear-covert streaking. Rufous-backed Sibia Leioptila annectens: Five in the Southern Highlands were of the race eximia, which is endemic to South Annam and is one of the darkest-backed; while two at Dak Blo Road were mixta? Black-crowned Barwing Actinodura sodangorum: This restricted range Lao-Vietnamese endemic was easily located again this year, with a pair found soon after our arrival at Loxo. Great prolonged scope views of this recently discovered species. ACROCEPHALIDAE Black-browed Reed-warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps: One showed well, though rather distantly at C6, Cat Tien NP. Rusty-rumped Warbler (Pallas’s Grasshopper W) Locustella certhiola: At one seen and several heard at C6. Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata: Flight views at Tuyen Lam, of this widespread wintering species. Russet Bush-warbler Bradypterus mandelli: One came out very nicely at Cuc Phuong, and there was another leader-only. Heard at Tam Dao. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Singles at Cat Tien NP, the Red River Islands, and Van Long Marsh. Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis: Quite common throughout. Those in the north may be of an undescribed race. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Those seen in the centre and north were subspecies longicauda, while one at Di Linh was inexpectatus. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens: A few at Cat Tien, and then common at Cuc Phuong NP. Heard at Tam Dao NP. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris: A couple of singing sonitans, with their buffy underparts, were seen at The Red River Islands. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: Scattered sightings of this widespread prinia. Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa: Seen well at Tuyen Lam this time; at least four! 24 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Hill Prinia Prinia superciliaris: South Indochinese klossi was found in the Southern and Central Highlands. Note the scientific name change, after the departure of atrogularis (includes khasiana) of the Indian subcontinent and W Myanmar. MAMMALS Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: One grey-backed smithi at Cat Tien NP. Pallas’s Squirrel (Belly-banded) Callosciurus erythraeus: Commonly seen. A very widespread and variable species. The races included flavimanus with pale hands and feet in the south, and chestnut-bellied erythraeus in the north. Maritime Striped Squirrel (Indochinese S S, Eastern S S) Tamiops maritimus: Common in the Southern Highlands, and also seen at Cuc Phuong NP. Cambodian Striped Squirrel Tamiops rodolphii: Three at Cat Tien NP. Perny’s Long-nosed Squirrel (P Squirrel) Dremomys pernyi: Craig saw one at Cuc Phuong NP. Indochinese Ground Squirrel (Berdmore’s S) Menetes berdmorei: Two at Cat Tien NP. Indian Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista philippensis: Brilliant views of one at Ta Nung Valley. Brown Rat (Norway R) Rattus norvegicus: One was seen during the central section of the tour. Javan Mongoose (Small Asian M) Herpestes javanicus: One at Lang Co Beach Resort disappeared into dense cover. Crab-eating Mongoose Herpestes urva: At least four at Cuc Phuong NP, and seen really well for the second year running. The largest mongoose in Asia. Delacour’s Leaf Monkey (D Langur) Trachypithecus delacouri: We were again with this amazing primate at Van Long Nature Reserve. This year we had long scope views of a troupe of 12, including three youngsters. Examination of my photos showed that there were actually two orange newly-borns. With an estimated 150-180 remaining in the wild, this is one of the World’s rarest primates. Hatinh Leaf Monkey (H Langur) Trachypithecus hatinhensis: Another rare primate that we were very successful with, this time near the West Gate at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP. Five were scoped for a long time as they approached their roost-site at dusk, and we had amazing close views of two others right by the roadside. Black-shanked Douc Langur Pygathrix nigripes: We saw this rare south Indochinese endemic on several occasions at Cat Tien NP, with 20-30 animals in total. Long-tailed Macaque (Crab-eating M) Macaca fascicularis: Just one at Cat Tien NP. Northern Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca leonina: About four at Cat Tien. Stump-tailed Macaque Macaca arctoides: Really good views of a handful across the river at Phong NhaKe Bang NP. Big and ape-like. Buff-cheeked Gibbon Nomascus gabriellae: Often heard up to Bach Ma, and particularly at Cat Tien NP. Two or three were briefly seen swinging through the trees at Deo Nui San. Northern Smooth-tailed Treeshrew Dendrogale murina: One briefly at Cat Tien NP. Eurasian Wild Boar Sus scrofa: Three at Cat Tien, in tall grass. Sambar Cervus unicolor: One spot-lighted at Cat Tien NP, and a couple heard. REPTILES Tockay Gecko Gekko gecko: At least one of these amazing huge geckos in the restaurant at Cat Tien NP. Heard here and there. Spiny-tailed Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus: Common at Cat Tien. Garden Fence Lizard Calotes versicolor: One or two around the accommodation at Cat Tien NP Indochinese Gliding Lizard Draco indochinensis: One at Cat Tien NP. Speckled Forest Skink Mabuya macularia: A few along the Crocodile Lake Trail, Cat Tien. 25 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 AMPHIBIANS Asiatic Toad Bufo melanostictus: In a few places, notably in the swimming pool at Bong, Cuc Phuong NP. BUTTERFLIES Common Birdwing Troides helena: Difficult to separate this from the next species but I think we had both. Golden Birdwing Troides aeacus: We photographed a dead one at Cuc Phuong NP. Common Windmill Byasa polyeuctes: By the tea-stall at Deo Nui San. Burmese Raven Papilio mahadeva: By the river at Cat Tien NP. Great Mormon Papilio memnon: Cat Tien. Common Jay Graphium doson: Cat Tien. Lesser Zebra Graphium macareus: Deo Nui San. Spotted Zebra Graphium megarus: Cat Tien. Great Zebra Graphium xenocles: Cat Tien. Four-bar Swordtail Graphium agetes: Deo Nui San. Chain Swordtail Graphium aristeus: Cat Tien. White Dragontail Lamproptera curius: The amazing streamer-tailed butterfly at Cat Tien and Phong NhaKe Bang NP. Psyche Leptosia nina: A skippy small white butterfly, frequent at Deo Nui Sand and Cat Tien NP. Lesser Gull Cepora nadina: Cat Tien. Chocolate Albatross Appias lyncida: By the river at Cat Tien. Spot Puffin Appias lalage: Deo Nui San. Yellow Orange Tip Ixias pyrene: Cat Tien. Common Wanderer Pareronia anais: Cat Tien. Common Emigrant Catopsila pomona. Three Spot Grass Yellow Eurema blanda: Cat Tien. Tree Yellow Ganaca harina: Cat Tien. Striped Tiger Danaus genutia: Phong Nha. White Tiger Danaus melanippus: Phong Nha. Striped Blue Crow Euploea mulciber: Cat Tien. Magpie Crow Euploea radamanthus: Cat Tien. Common Evening Brown Melanitis leda: Cuc Phuong. Dark Evening Brown Melanitis phedima: Deo Nui San and Cuc Phuong. Banded Tree-brown Lethe confusa: Along the tracks at Mt Lang Bian and Deo Nui San. Lilacine Bush-brown Mycalesis francisca: Deo Nui San. Striped Ringlet Ragadia crisilda: Deo Nui San. Large Faun Faunis eumeus: Several places in the south. Jungle Glory Thaumantis diores: A tatty one in the restaurant at Bach Ma. Common Duffer Discophora sondaica: Cat Tien. Yellow Coster Acraea issoria: One behind the tea-shop at Deo Nui San. Great Assyrian Terinos atlita: By the Red-collared Woodpecker at Phong Nha. Little Yeoman Cirrochroa surya: Cat Tien. Rustic Cupha erymanthis. Loxo. Blue Admiral Kaniska canace: At the large waterfall at Loxo. Grey Pansy Junonia atlites: Cat Tien. Peacock Pansy Junonia almana. Blue Pansy Junonia orithya: Ta Nung Valley and Deo Nui San. 26 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Yellow Pansy Junonia hierta: Cat Tien NP. Lurcher Yoma sabina: In the restaurant at Cat Tien NP. Orange Oakleaf Kalima paralekta: One perched over the stream by the tea-shop at Deo Nui San. Little Map Cyrestis themire: The one I called a maplet at Phong Nha. Common Sailer Neptis hylas: Cat Tien etc. Common Lascar Pantoporia hordonia: Cat Tien. Commander Moduza procris: Cat Tien. Knight Lebadea martha: Cat Tien. Clipper Parthenos sylvia: Cat Tien NP etc. Common Earl Tanaecia julii: Bach Ma NP. Archduke Lexias pardalis: A pair at Bach Ma, by the restaurant. Tawny Rajah Charaxes bernadus: Cat Tien. Punchinello Zemeros flegyas: Loxo, Bach Ma, Phong Nha etc. Tailed Judy Abisara neophron: Deo Nui San. Columbine Stiboges nymphidia: Deo Nui San. Malayan Megisba malaya: Cat Tien. Common Hedge Blue Acytolepis puspa: Deo Nui San. Zebra Blue Syntarucus plinius: Cat Tien. Common Lineblue Prosotas nora: Cat Tien. Tailless Lineblue Prosotas dubiosa: Deo Nui San, Cat Tien. Restricted Purple Sapphire Heliophorus ila: Deo Nui San and Phong Nha. Leaf Blue Amblypodia anita: Cat Tien NP. Green Awl Hasora salanga: Cat Tien. Plain Banded Awl Hasora vitta: Deo Nui San, Cat Tien. Silver-breast Ace Sovia albipecta: Cat Tien. Bright Red Velvet Bob Koruthaialos sindu: Deo Nui San. Restricted Demon Notocrypta curvifascia: Deo Nui San. Common Wight Iton semamora: Cat Tien. DRAGONFLIES Variable Sprite Agriocnemis rubescens: Cat Tien HQ pond. Yellow Featherlegs Copera marginipes: Cat Tien. Variable Featherlegs Copera vittata: Cat Tien HQ pond. Emerald-banded Skimmer (Lined Forest-skimmer) Cratilla lineata: Da Ko Road, Cat Tien. Fulvous Forest Skimmer Neurothemis fulvia: Cat Tien. Common Blue Skimmer Orthetrum glaucum: Deo Nui San. Common Red Skimmer Orthetrum pruinosum: Deo Nui San. Slender Skimmer Orthetrum sabina. Yellow-tailed Ashy Skimmer (Common Chaser) Potamarcha congener: Cat Tien. Common Redbolt Rhodothemis rufa: Cat Tien. 27 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Clockwise from top left: Tuyen Lam Flavescent Bulbul Chinese Francolin Orange-breasted Trogon on nest Slender-billed Oriole Grey-crowned Crocias (photo by Nguyen Tran Vy) 28 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Clockwise from top left: Tawny Rajah Dusky Broadbill Leaf Blue Dak Blo Road, Loxo Striped Blue Crow Grey-faced Tit-babbler (photo by Nguyen Tran Vy) 29 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Clockwise from top left: Black-crowned Barwing The team Stump-tailed Macaque Grey-headed Lapwing Hatinh Leaf Monkey White-shouldered Starling 30 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011 Clockwise from top left: Swinhoe’s Wagtail 12 Delacour’s Leaf Monkey, incl. juv. and 2 orange babies Crested Goshawk Pied Falconet White-browed Crake Evening at Van Long Marsh 31 Birdquest: Vietnam 2011
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