ILLAWARRA BONSAI SOCIETY INC
Newsletter No 11 – December 2009
Editor/Secretary:
President:
Mail:
Meetings:
Jamie Milner (ph 0415 440 807), [email protected]
Brenda Parker (ph 9547.2157), [email protected]
PO Box 294, Jannali 2226
Web: www.illawarrabonsaisociety.org
7.30pm third Monday night each month (except January & December)
at Gymea Community Centre, Gymea Bay Road, Gymea. NSW.
NEXT MEETING 7.30PM MONDAY 14 DECEMBER 2009
(AGM and CHRISTMAS PARTY)
PRESIDENT’S REPORT
The two most frequently asked questions that I get asked are 1)
What trees can be used for bonsai, and 2) How do you grow moss?
Firstly, I will tackle the question on what suitable material can be
used for bonsai. The sky is the limit, (as far as I am concerned), is the
answer that I normally give as I don’t think there are any ‘rules’ as to
what to use.
Experimentation is always very rewarding especially if the material used is successful and not
regarded as the norm. If you have a love of trees and gardening and are passionate, as
most of us are, you can get a real buzz in taming or achieving what you first set out to do.
You will have gained so much experience in understanding how the trees grow, what
conditions they require, how do the trees react to pruning etc. etc.
There are some trees in my own collection that I would regard as not the ‘norm’ according
to the books or by my peers. Trees like Camphor Laurel, miniature umbrella trees and
common green jade come to mind. Now there are quite a few really good examples
around of these trees that were once thought of as hideous. The miniature umbrella tree is
extensively used in Hawaii for example. Green jade is starting to be used a lot more here
now especially after some very notable and renown bonsai artists have mastered growing
some very fine examples.
Another tree that is quite often frowned upon is the common privet. When John Hanby was
here last month he showed some wonderful examples in his own collection of these so-called
‘weeds’. These can be often found growing in someone’s garden hedge, on a kerbside,
along creek beds and birds often drop the seed in our own gardens only to be ripped up
when we weed. Collect them and pot up into small pots to grow on and if you collect a few
of them maybe later on they can be used in a landscape. They grow very quickly, are very
forgiving, shoot back on old wood and truly they will survive any conditions.
Other trees that I have are white cedar, jacaranda, small flowering magnolias, common
yellow daisy which makes a great thick trunk, cherry guavas, London plane trees (seedlings
given to me by a club member), miniature ivy, liquidambar, cut leaf mulberry, Queensland
bottle tree, pittosporum, bauhinia, miniature hibiscus, the herb rosemary and also there are a
lot of succulents that make quite incredibly thick trunks and give you that ‘bonsai’ look.
Go ahead try and experiment. There is room for a little light heartedness within your own
collection and just think how much pleasure, enjoyment and experience you will get from
trying something a little different.
A Member of the Bonsai Federation of Australia Inc
A Member of Australian Associated Bonsai Clubs
A Member of the Garden Clubs of Australia
Swap plants with a friend or club member, collect seeds from a walk in the park, strike
cuttings or even aerial layer a specimen from your own garden or from a friend’s. Every
other bonsai community use what is at their disposal in their own area and what grows
prolifically, so what is so different for us using the same sort of resources.
Look around, observe and search around many nurseries to see what is on offer or just as
good is to walk around your own suburb and see what grows well in your own area. It
doesn’t have to cost you a lot, even check out your local garage sales and fetes.
2) Moss has been discussed a few times before on how to keep it alive. Quickly, I will revise
the methods, firstly, collect moss and keep in seedling trays with a little potting mix and kept
damp under the bonsai benches. Secondly, it can be collected and dried and then it can
be crushed up to a fine powder and kept in a screw top jar in a cool place. When needed it
can be sprinkled on the soil surface of the pot and with regular watering it will eventually start
to grow. It usually takes about 6 – 8 weeks before the moss starts to grow and cover the soil.
Recently, I found an article in an old Sunset book on Ideas for Japanese Gardens printed in
1975. In it I found this other way, which I thought we could add to our arsenal of ways of
propagating moss. You will need a seedling tray, a roll of cheesecloth, a piece of insect
screen, soil or potting mix and some starter moss.
Again collect some moss and dry it completely until it is crumbly and discard as much of the
soil as possible and just keep the ‘green’ bits. This is the starter moss you will need to start your
experiment. Cover the seedling tray with the insect screen off cut and cover this with about
an inch of the potting mix and soak this with a solution of 1 part skim milk or prepared
powdered milk to 7 parts water. The milk is a mild acidifier and will help the moss to
germinate.
Cut two pieces of the cheesecloth slightly larger than the seedling tray. Put one of these
pieces onto the soil surface and tuck in the edges around the tray. Sprinkle the crumbled
dried starter moss over this piece of cheese cloth and then place the second piece of cloth
over the top of this and tuck in. Water gently until the cheesecloth looks wet but not
saturated.
Place this tray in a shady spot out of the wind and keep moist. Morning or afternoon sun is all
the moss needs to grow.
About two months later the moss should have grown and penetrated both of the layers of
the cheesecloth. After about 3 months the months the moss will completely cover the cloth.
From then on you can lift one edge of the cloth and roll the mossy sandwich and cut it into
the shapes you need. You can use large pieces to cover rocks and remember to fasten it
with wire clips or string until it adheres to the rock. Long strips could be quite beneficial when
covering the muck wall around a flat try or when doing rock plantings.
I hope these ideas have helped you to try something new
and different and hopefully you will be all the richer for
having a go! Good Luck.
Till next time,
Brenda
FINAL THOUGHT
‘Those who travel unworn paths
find the rarest flowers.’
Illawarra Bonsai Society Inc Newsletter
- Anon
Page 2
HANDY HINTS
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The weather has been crazy lately, with one day of 39 degrees and the next day only a
mere 21 degrees. The trees are confused (as we all are) so we must be vigilant and
watch and look at our trees often. Check the moisture deep down into the pots by
inserting your finger as far down as possible and taking notice of how the foliage is
reacting to the sudden changes of temperature. If they are suffering in the full sun
maybe it would be advantageous to move them to a semi shaded place until the
weather has some normality about it. This sudden change in temperature can be
harmful to all trees.
Defoliation on a lot of the deciduous trees can take place now and continue right up
until Christmas – trees like liquidambar, trident maples, Japanese maples, Chinese elms,
wisterias, privets and of course figs. Only cut the leaves and leave the petiole (stalk) in
place that harbours the new little bud close to the branch.
Fertilizing is still very confusing to many people. When in doubt, feed with a liquid feed
(brown and smelly like Charlie Carp for example) every fortnight and if you are still not
sure half the recommended dose but fertilise more frequently. Using powdered chemical
fertilizers that you mix with water are not usually recommended as they do have a high
salt content which is not good for trees. If this is done only very occasionally though and
then supplemented with an organic feed the tree is getting a good variety of different
nutrients.
Obviously, the full proof way is to use a slow release feed like Osmocote that takes the
guess work out of your feeding regime. Nutrients are distributed to the plant every time
you water and also the warmth of the day helps with this nutrients being released.
Dynamic Lifter is also used in a carpet over the soil but take heed not to put this up next
to the trunk at all. Just around the edge of the pot.
Prune away any long extended growth that grows past the canopy of the tree. If these
are left unchecked these new branches can become quite thick and spoil the overall
shape of the tree. Let 4 leaves grow then cut 2 off and keep repeating this every time 4
leaves grow to improve the ramification of the branches.
Trees that are very thirsty like wisteria can be safely stood in trays of water and they
cannot dry out at all. Keep the trays filled up every day.
Water trees only in the early morning or late in the afternoon or early evening. If you
water in the middle of the day most of the water will be evaporated and your trees will
not benefit from it all and also you will only be wasting this very precious commodity.
Common sense should prevail. If you don’t have a water tank, try collecting a supply of
water when it rains in large tubs or buckets and then storing in a big black plastic lidded
rubbish bin for future use. You will be amazed how much water you can save and your
next water bill will look much better. If you do happen to use the hose in the middle of
the day for whatever reason, let the water run into this lidded container for a while as the
water will be very hot after lying in the sun. You don’t want to cook your trees do you??
Black Pine Diary
By John Cross
Don’t forget that the original intent of this diary was to provide action items pertinent to the
time of receipt of the diary until the next newsletter. There is no newsletter in January, which,
as fate would have it, is just about the most important month in the whole procedure. But first
…
For small bonsai – no fertilising this month.
For medium size bonsai – continue with the fertilising program as in the previous months.
At the end of December (unfortunately for many this will also be vacation time) and just as
you did with candle breaking:
Cut off all new branch growth (this year’s candles), right back to the terminal pair of the last
year’s needles in the weak growth area.
Illawarra Bonsai Society Inc Newsletter
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Use very sharp scissors to make a clean, up-wards facing, cut. I suggest this type of cut so
that the majority of new buds that will form a little later will be positioned better than if the
slope of the cut were down-wards facing.
In ten days time, repeat the process in the medium growth area of the tree.
Ten days after that, repeat the process in the strong growth area.
In January
About 1 week to 10 days later you will notice new bud growth. “Buds”. Is this a new term?
Yes, it’s the first time it has been mentioned in this diary although it may not be the first time
experienced Black Pine growers that seen them.
Buds can best be described as tiny green ‘acorns’ when they first appear around the newly
cut branches. By the end of January they burst into new growth that looks a little like new
growth on a cedar or larch. The new growth colour is lighter than mature needles with a
touch of blue and they are also fatter than the standard black pine needles. As January
turns into February, this is the time to start to thin the new buds.
In my experience, this is about the most critical part of the whole process. Depending on the
health and age of the tree, some branches will form from three to six buds. Select the two
buds that best suit the direction you want the new branches to grow in and remove the rest
carefully using tweezers. Work carefully because the new buds are not yet very firmly
attached to the branch and can easily be damaged. Complete this process by the end of
February. Do not remove any buds after that time.
From the time of branch cutting, be particularly attentive to your watering regime. Do not
allow your tree to dry out or become distressed due to lack of water. Give them plenty of
water.
The coarse sandy soil mix will ensure that the rootage does not become
waterlogged.
Do not fertilise your trees this month, regardless of their size.
March)
(Fertilising recommences in
The cost of not undertaking the task of removing unwanted buds is that new branches will
develop from those buds and the tree will expend energy on growing those branches that
will spoil the shape. Also additional buds result in stronger growth. We don’t want isolated
areas of growth. We are striving through this technique to create balanced in vigour over
the entire tree.
DECORATED CHRISTMAS TREE
At our last meeting and Christmas party for this year, we usually have on show a decorated
tree in any way you wish, you are only limited by your imagination. Please be in it and
remember you don’t have to stick to traditional styles, or trees or even decorations. See
what you can come up with and be in the running to win a prize. It is a bit of fun and brings
cheer to our Christmas party. Remember this meeting will be on the second Monday in
December and could you also bring a plate with either sweet or savoury goodies to add to
our feast after the formalities of the evening are finished.
Also bring a small gift or two to add to the tombola, which is a traditional part of our final
night for the year. Wrap the gifts to add to the excitement of what could be hidden in them.
Get prepared for what is a great final meeting to our bonsai calendar and remember to
bring your friends, family and of course - yourselves.
Illawarra Bonsai Society Inc Newsletter
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END OF YEAR BUSINESS
AGM
The Christmas party night begins with the necessary formality of the AGM
where, amongst other things, office bearers are elected for the upcoming
year. Nomination forms were sent out with the November newsletter. All
nominations forms were required at least one week prior to the AGM.
Also at the AGM will be the announcement of the tree competition prizes
for 2009. The winners in each section will be announced and awarded
their prizes, as well the Elaine Chee trophy for the best exhibitor of the
year.
Library Books
All library books should have been returned at our last meeting. There will
be no further loans until the first meeting in 2010.
First Meeting of 2010
Please note that there is no meeting for January 2010. The next club
meeting will be held at 7.30pm Monday, 15 February 2010. It will be a
workshop night.
TREE COMPETITION RESULTS – November 2009
Open Large
Open Medium
Open Mame
Intermediate
Novice
st
1
nd
2
rd
Eq 3
rd
Eq 3
st
1
nd
2
rd
3
st
1
nd
Eq 2
nd
Eq 2
st
1
nd
2
rd
3
st
1
nd
2
rd
3
Trident Maple
Beaekia
Beaekia
Chamaecyparis
Olive
Ficus Nerifolia
Hibertia
Little Ruby
Blaauw’s Juniper
Azalea Karume
Callistemon sp
Bougainvillea
Callistemon sp
Procumbens Juniper
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Ric Roberts
Noel Summerell
Lee Wright
Phil Rodriques
Lee Wright
Noel Summerell
Sergion Banach
Noel Summerell
Ric Roberts
Laurie Carroll
Neville Althaus
Laurie Carroll
Sergion Banach
Robyn Daniel
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DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
15/2/2010
February Meeting (Workshop)
14-17/5/2010
23 AABC National Convention hosted by Illawarra Bonsai Society Inc.- “A
Bonsai Celebration”
17-19/9/2010
Illawarra’s Eleventh Weekend Workshop at Tops Conference Centre
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SUNDAY WORKSHOPS
Another year of Sunday workshops at Noel’s will come to a close on December 13, with a
Christmas brunch following the morning lessons. It has been a fun year, with many newer
members coming along to learn from our dedicated teachers, Noel and Brenda.
Participants have enjoyed the mix of learning, philosophy, fun and frivolity. Thanks are in
order once again for the hard work and dedication of Noel and Brenda in making the
Illawarra Bonsai Society Inc Newsletter
Page 5
workshops happen. And of course, thanks also to Judy, without whom we would not have
plentiful cups of tea and morning snacks.
Our headline demonstrator for the 2010 AABC Convention, Salvatore Liporace, was recently
a guest at the Asian Pacific Bonsai Conference, held in Taiwan. Salvatore worked for a
whole day on creating a magnificent juniper, and courtesy of Leong at Bonsai South here is
a few photos of Salvatore’s magic.
The Committee would like to wish each and every one of our members and your families a
very safe, happy and healthy Christmas and New Year. Looking forward to seeing you all
back with us again next year.
HAPPY HOME RECIPE
4 Cups of Love
2 cups of loyalty
3 cups of forgiveness
1 cup of friendship
5 spoons of hope
2 spoons of tenderness
1 litre of faith
1 barrel of laughter
Take love and loyalty, mix thoroughly with faith. Blend with tenderness, friendship,
hope and forgiveness and sprinkle with laughter. Bake in sunshine and serve daily over
the Christmas holidays.
Merry Christmas!
Illawarra Bonsai Society Inc Newsletter
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