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Five Trends in Spain’s Wine Industry
Spain’s Wine Country Hotels
The Global Plate: Chinese Cuisine
and Spanish Wines
El Taburete: Bar Pintxo
Postmark: Montilla-Moriles
contents
4 Five Trends in Spain's Wine
Industry
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Spain's Wine Country Hotels
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El Taburete: Bar Pintxo
The Global Plate: Chinese
Cuisine and Spanish Wines
El Sacacorchos
La Bodega
Postmark: Montilla-Moriles
Fasten your seat belts, fellow wine worshippers! A sip of any given memorable Spanish
wine in the days to come is likely to express
terruño, Spanish for terroir, cry out uniqueness
and take you back in time, yet convey freshness
and elegance all at once. Bruce Schoenfeld
shares some pointers for navigating the fascinating map of Spain’s wines in 2009. Time to
slow down. Whether you root for solid rusticity
or groundbreaking architecture as a place for
a one-night-stop between Spain’s sizzling wine
regions, chances are that you will find more
than one perfect match in Anya von Bremzen’s
line-up of hotels in Spain’s wine country. Jordan MacKay’s own search for unique flavors
in lean times took him to a neighborhood Chinese take-out in San Francisco. He reached for
Spanish wines to accompany his meal, and
reveals his preferred options. Farther south, in
Santa Monica, a passionate chef-sommelier
team is bringing small portions of Spain to diners at Bar Pintxo. André Mello reports. A final
detour with John Radford takes us to the neighbouring towns of Montilla-Moriles, where the
grape Pedro Ximénez is at home.
winesfromspainnews
Winter 2008
Editor-in-Chief: Jose Guerra
Managing Editor: Carole Cleaver
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Elena Cifuentes
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Editorial Director: Katrin K. Naelapaa
Wines from Spain, USA
Director: Katrin K. Naelapaa
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Associate Director: Jose Guerra
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Ana Gargallo
Marketing Analysts: Pablo Martín, Luis Martínez,
Elena Cifuentes
Cover art: Oscar Mariné of OMB Diseño Gráfico,
Madrid, designer of poster for Pedro Almodóvar´s film
"All About my Mother."
Wines from Spain News is a free publication
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New York. The publication makes every effort
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not assume responsibility for any ommissions or
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Wines from Spain News is published three times
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Photo courtesy of Katrin Naelappa
FIVE TRENDS IN SPAIN'S WINE INDUSTRY
By Bruce Schoenfeld
While seeking out the new and novel at the TopWineSpain
event near Sevilla earlier this year, I found Cumal, from
Dominio DosTares. I learned that it originated from 90year-old vines growing south of León, and that it’s made
entirely from Prieto Picudo, a grape variety seldom seen
outside that region. The wine was nicely balanced and
had good acidity, and it tasted of plums covered with
chocolate sauce. It was markedly different than the
dense Tempranillos and Syrahs that were being poured
all around it, and I walked away impressed.
Javier Zaccagnini of Bodegas Aalto. © Cephas.
About the author:
Bruce Schoenfeld is the wine
editor of Travel & Leisure
magazine and writes for
many other national and
international publications.
He has been visiting Spain
annually since 1987.
It’s only now, having spent much of the past few weeks
talking to winemakers, importers, Spanish wine journalists and sommeliers, that I can identify Cumal as what it
is: perhaps Spain’s trendiest wine. I don’t mean trendiest
in the usual sense, the hot wine of the moment. (Last I
looked, the winery didn’t even have a U.S. importer.) But
Cumal stands at the intersection of several major trends
currently emerging from Spanish bodegas. It’s a highly
specific wine, produced in about the only place it could
be produced, from a grape variety that flourishes only
there, as grown on vines planted generations ago. It’s
aged in French (and Hungarian) oak, not American, as
has been typical in Spain for decades – but the oak is a
grace note, not a major flavor component. It’s refreshing
and drinkable; though the alcohol content is 14 percent,
I would have guessed a full degree lower.
André Tamers, whose De Maison Selections imports
some of Spain’s most interesting wines, pulled the picture
together for me. “What I’m seeing now is an unprecedented sense of regional pride,” he said. “People all
over Spain are proud of their land, and they want to take
care of it. That manifests itself in sustainable farming, and
the use of native varieties, and winemaking in ways that
shows off a sense of place, so lower alcohol and less
4
evident oak.” If that’s a snapshot of the next wave of
Spanish wines, I’m all for it. I think of today as Spain’s post-postmodern period in
winemaking and wine production. Modern wine began
with Pesquera in the mid-1980s, and continued through
revolutions in Rioja, Priorat, Rías Baixas and beyond.
The postmodern phase involved the second and third
generations in Ribera del Duero and Rioja, new reference wines there from Aalto to Benjamín Romeo, as
well as the rediscovery of disused appellations from the
Mediterranean coast to green Galicia.
But wine and wine consumption continue to change.
The dollar is down, and reverberations are being felt
worldwide. Consumers from America and the Far East
who may have come to wine in the 1990s now seem to
be tiring of high-alcohol monsters, and a growing sense
of wine as a mealtime beverage is altering attitudes and
purchasing strategies. Robert Parker’s scores still help
sell, but the cadre of tasters who now cover much of the
world for The Wine Advocate have far more catholic
tastes than does Parker himself. The idea of a wine constructed solely for Parker’s palate is fading.
How Spain responds to these shifting conditions will
help determine its place in the wine world in the coming years. After lengthy discussions with Spain-oriented
wine professionals and inspired amateurs, here’s how I
perceive the industry moving:
1. Toward New Wine Regions – And The Grape
Varieties That Love Them. “Viticulture, even in the old
world, is never a fixed photograph, but a moving
picture,” says journalist Víctor de la Serna, a longtime
observer of the Spanish wine scene – and, as of more
recently, a winery owner and producer with Manchuela’s
Finca Sandoval. He reels off Spain’s emerging regions
2. Toward Elegance and Freshness. Spain is a sunny
country, and the easy ripening of so many of its grapes
gives it a natural advantage. But ripe grapes needn’t
necessarily translate into brutally powerful wines full of
alcoholic heat. “There’s a definite trend toward making
fresher wines, wines of great expression that are more
elegant than powerful,” says José Peñín, one of Spain’s
foremost wine journalists.
Where do they come from? Refer to de la Serna’s list for
regions that have been mostly ignored until now, in many
cases because they haven’t always managed to produce
the plush, fruit-forward wines that have been in fashion.
(And I’d add sub-regions of familiar appellations, such as
Rioja Baja and the eastern part of Ribera del Duero.) De
la Serna also looks to higher altitudes for fruit that makes
fresher, more subtle wines, like his own Syrah- and Bobalbased blends in Manchuela. But he cautions against
trying to unduly reduce alcohol levels. “You can’t trick
nature,” he warns. “Spain should not be making wines
that are unnatural. You have to have ripe grapes, and
you don’t get ripe grapes in Spain without 14 or 14.5
percent alcohol, with only a few exceptions.”
4. To French Oak. But Less Of It. Rather than American
oak, the traditional aging vessel in Rioja and much of
Spain, French barrels have lately come into vogue, at
least among top producers. “French oak is a general
trend,” says Menacho. People want tannins that are
softer, less assertive, and allow wines to be more complex and elegant.” It helps that the French barrels coming
to Spain are better than ever, thanks to pressure from
importers such as Ordóñez and Eric Solomon, and the
success of Spanish wine on the international market has
given more producers the means to pay for such customtoasted, top-of-the-line barrels. But whether you employ
French or American oak or some of each, using it with
restraint allows the varietal to speak out more clearly.
Menacho’s rule of thumb for new oak is six or seven
months for crianza wines, double that for reservas.
A secondary trend is the use of second-year barrels to
complete the aging process. “It’s the novelty that I found
to be most important this year,” says Peñín. “Three or four
months in second-year oak as a compliment to the new
oak, just to take the edge off that new-oak flavor. RODA
is doing it, and Palacios Remondo, and others. It’s confirmation that there’s a spirit to reduce evident oak.”
5. Toward Equality For White Wines. Other than Albariño,
a rather recent arrival on the world scene, Spanish whites
have traditionally been perceived as inferior cousins to
the country’s bold reds. And beyond perception, finding
a compelling white wine to drink with seafood or fish in
3. To Old Vines, Wherever They Are. The naturally low Spain was a constant challenge.
yields of mature vines produce the best raw material for
making memorable, top-quality wines. As it happens, These days, Spain’s whites are on the verge of stepping
that story also resonates with consumers. “Selling wine, up to challenge reds for dominance – though perhaps
you say ‘Old Vine’ and people go crazy,” says Sara not market share, as production of the best wines is
Floyd, a San Francisco-based Master Sommelier, and destined to be limited. “As a whole, Spain doesn’t have
the national sales manager for importer Jorge Ordóñez’s the climate for top-quality whites,” says Zaccagnini.
Fine Estates From Spain. You can’t just go out and cre- “But there are small and scarce areas where conditions
ate a 90-year-old vineyard, “but, luckily, Spain has a are right.” When they are, the resulting wines can be
lot of them,” Floyd says. Many are planted goblet-style, extraordinary. “I’m thinking of wines such as our 2007
which gives them a better chance than trellised grapes Viognier,” says Casa de la Ermita’s Menacho, “but also
to thrive for half a century and more, believes Javier a Xarel.lo from Albet i Noya in Penedès that I can tell
Zaccagnini, a partner in Ribera del Duero’s Aalto and you is incredible. No oak, so crisp and sharp.” He’s
the new Ossian project in Rueda that features 150-year- excited to report that when he travels the U.S., he hears
old vines. “And Spain’s hot summers also provide a far more talk about Spanish whites than ever, from
naturally healthy environment,” Zaccagnini says, “with a wine buyers and sommeliers who understand Galician
near-absence of vine disease.”
geography and are excited – not put off – by hard-topronounce names. I had the same experience, and I’m
In the past, many of these vineyards were neglected stunned to find that Txakoli and Treixadura, for example,
because their yields were so low. It didn’t make sense to have actually entered America’s wine lexicon. I can only
coax minimal amounts of grapes out of them for an $8 hope Prieto Picudo is next.
Emerging Regions:
Manchuela: This red-wine
region produces wines
that combine the use of its
traditional grapes Bobal and
white Macabeo, with other
experimental varieties, including whites like Albillo and reds
like Cencibel.
Mariano García and old Tinto Fino vines at Bodegas Mauro. © Cephas.
“People all over Spain are reinvestigating their local
grapes,” agrees Daniel Menacho, who manages the
Americas for Jumilla’s Casa de la Ermita. But he doesn’t
just mean in emerging regions. He cites Treixadura
in Rías Baixas and Graciano in Rioja as examples of
mature wine-producing areas looking to secondary
grapes to add local flavor, rather than to ubiquitous
international varieties such as Chardonnay or Cabernet
Sauvignon. That’s only a nascent trend, but worth following.
wine. But through the efforts of old-vine pioneers such as
Alvaro Palacios and René Barbier (Priorat), the Eguren
brothers (Toro), and Mariano García (Ribera del Duero
and beyond), the world has come to value this rarified
fruit. Now the hunt is on to find any ancient – or even
middle-aged – vineyards that remain unclaimed, even if
that means straying far from the beaten path. “For the
winemakers that come from the outside especially, like
[Australia’s] Chris Ringland and [Austria’s] Alois Kracher,
who have worked with us, coming across old vines is
like finding diamonds,” Floyd says. “They get so excited,
about what they’re going to have the opportunity to work
with. It’s what really makes Spain unique.”
Ribeira Sacra: This denomination of origin mainly produces
single-variety reds from the
Mencía grape, garnet-red in
color, fresh and aromatic on
the nose and dry and fruity on
the palate. Its whites are made
from Albariño and Godello
grapes.
Tierra de León: The main
characteristic of this region is
its native grape variety, Prieto
Picudo, that produces wines
of an outstanding quality,
with excellent fruitiness and
phenolic content.
Liébana: This region has
recently begun producing
wine from ancient vines of
the Mencía grape, obtaining
the designation of Vino de la
Tierra de Liébana.
Sierras de Málaga: This D.O.
is well known for its sweet,
fortified wines made from
Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez
grapes. The region currently
produces red, white and rosé
wines with less than 14% of
alcohol.
Old vine photo courtesy of Katrin Naelappa
and newly rediscovered grapes at machine-gun speed.
“Ribeira Sacra, Tierra de León, Manchuela, Liébana,
Sierras de Málaga,” he says. “Bobal, Mencía, Prieto
Picudo (a black-skinned grape variety of León, native to
Spain, occasionally blended with Mencía), Garnacha
Tintorera, Picapoll, Xarel.lo.” The litany is still all but
unknown worldwide, but it seems likely that the next
major Spanish breakthroughs are somewhere on the list.
5
Spa at Marqués de Riscal, A Luxury Collection Hotel.
Croquetas by Chef Francis Paniego
SPAIN’S WINE COUNTRY HOTELS
By Anya Von Bremzen
We all know that there’s nothing like tasting great
Spanish wines at their source. Luckily, these days
almost every wine-growing region in Spain lures dedicated oeno-tourists not just with bodega visits, but also
with atmospheric hotels often owned by the wineries.
Ranging in style from futuristic to rustic and in location
from La Rioja to Mallorca, here’s a veritable cuvé of
places where wine-lovers can sleep in style after a
hard day of sniffing and twirling. Bienvenidos.
Courtesy of Can Feliu Hotel
About the author:
Award-winning cookbook author and
food journalist Anya von Bremzen
writes frequently about Spain. Her
last cookbook was The New Spanish
Table.
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Marqués de Riscal, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Rioja
1 Calle Torrea, Elciego; Tel: 800-325-3589
or +34-94-518-0880. www.marquesderiscal.com.
A jaw-dropping collaboration between star-architect
Frank Gehry (of Guggenheim Bilbao fame) and the
venerable Marqués de Riscal winery, this hotel put
Rioja on the global architectural map when it opened
in 2006. Visit and you will see why. Rising dramatically over the vineyards outside the sleepy medieval
town of Elciego (about 90 miles southeast of Bilbao),
the stunning building sports a jumble of Ghery’s signature twisting ribbons of pink and gold metal that
suggest wine gushing out of a bottle. Gehry also
oversaw many of the details in the 43 uber-sleek
guest rooms: the tall tan leather headboards over the
beds, the stylishly crinkly lamps, the huge bathrooms
clad in polished green granite. Equally impressive is
the enormous Caudalie Vinotherapie spa featuring
grapeseed-based treatments. Helming the panoramic
150-seat restaurant, the young Riojan celebrity chef
Francis Paniego proves that he’s equally at ease with
traditional flavors (perfect croquetas) and vanguardia
whimsies (fish with crystallized red wine, and tomato
seed ice cream) that reflect his apprenticeship with
the culinary guru Ferran Adrià. Sill, the highlight of
the stay might be the tour of Riscal’s subterranean
cellars, which store treasured bottles going back the
late 1800’s.
Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Rioja
3 Plaza del Santo, Santo Domingo de la Calzada;
Tel: +34-941-340-300; www.paradores-spain.com.
One of the most evocative properties in the government-run paradores chain, this hotel has a rich past:
first as a palace for the dukes of Navarra, then a
hospice for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago route.
You might experience a religious epiphany under the
Gothic archways of the lobby decorated with a coffered wooden ceiling and sculptures of angels and
saints. The 61 spacious rooms have splashes of blue
and green against buttery walls. Located in the medieval town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada—book a
room overlooking the plaza–the Parador is a terrific
base for exploring the wineries of Rioja Alta. Only
10 miles away is the town of Haro, known for the
region’s richest concentration of first-rate bodegas, like
López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta and CVNE. At the
Parador’s restaurant, Rioja wine-country specialties–
tiny lamb chops grilled over vine leaves, bacalao a la
Riojana—are complemented by a wine list crammed
with interesting bottles. How about a crianza made by
the monks from the nearby monastery of Yuso?
Peralada Resort & Wine Spa, Girona
C. Rocaberti, s/n; 17491 Peralada (Girona);
Tel +34-972-538-830; www.golfperalada.com.
Nestled in an idyllic patch of Catalonia’s wine-producing Alt Empordá region, this plush 55-room five
star property draws both wine lovers and beauty
freaks to its luxurious wine spa. Relying on natural
resources from the Castillo Peralada winery, which
produces rich, fruity red wines and elegant cavas,
the spa specializes in ampelotherapy, meaning face
and body treatments based on by-products of grapes
and wine. Can’t choose among all the options? Try
an invigorating exfoliation with grape seeds, a gran
reserva body wrap, or a Gran Claustro bath. The
amenities don’t stop with the pummeling: at the cozy
vaulted Masa Peralada restaurant, guests are treated to new Catalan dishes like partridge with cabbage, and pan-baked bacalao with chick peas. The
hotel is also a part of the Peralada village complex,
which includes a Gothic castle, a casino, a golf
course, and a wine museum occupying the medieval
cellars of the former monastery of Carmelite friars.
The brothers first started making wine in the region
back in the 15th century—and the tradition is still
going strong. Not to miss nearby: The monastery of
Sant Pere de Rodes, a significant Romanesque site,
perched in an impressive setting high on a hill.
Hotel Arzuaga Navarro, Ribera del Duero
Carretera N-122 Km 325, Quintanilla de Onésimo
(Valladolid) Tel: +34-983-681-146 ; www.arzuaganavarro.com.
Since the early 1990’s, Arzuaga-Navarro winery has
been bottling some of the most sophisticated crianzas
and reservas in the Ribera del Duero region (as well
as its only sparkling wine). What most wine drinkers
don’t realize is that cocooned inside the beautiful
View of Marqués de Riscal Hotel
Arzuaga estate is a cushy 5-star hotel adjacent to the
cellar and production facilities. Folded into a handsome stone finca, the 43 old-world bedrooms overlooking the vineyards espouse old-world elegance
with their plush upholstery and baronial dark wood
furniture. The wine village of Quintanilla de Onésimo,
where the hotel is located, is only a short drive from
the crusader castle of Peñafiel. Practically next door
are Duero’s cult wineries: Pingus and Vega Sicilia.
The other neighbors are deer and wild boar that roam
the La Planta game preserve nearby.
Hacienda Zorita, Salamanca
Ctra. Salamanca - Ledesma, km 12. 37115
Valverdón (Salamanca); Tel. +34-902-109-902
– 923-129-400; www.haciendas-espana.com.
Banker-turned-vintner Victor Redondo Sierra is a busy
man. Not only is he the CEO of Bodegas Arco, a
winemaking and distribution conglomerate, he also
founded Haciendas de España, a boutique chain of
winery-owned hotels across Spain. The company’s
flagship property is the enchanted Hacienda Zorita,
a short drive from Salamanca. The tastefully restored
1345 building astride the Tormes river was a former
Dominican monastery where Columbus reportedly
stayed before setting off for the New World. The
hotel shares the grounds with a tower, a chapel, a
river mill, and a couple of wine cellars. Inside the
hotel, past and present co-exist gracefully. In the
beamed open-plan ground floor lounge guests linger
over glasses of Durius Hacienda Zorita Crianza.
Upstairs, the stylishly spare guest rooms have spellbinding river views, and up-to-the minute modern
amenities. Zorita takes guests’ wine education seriously, offering guided tours of its wine aging facilities
and tutored tastings of the single-estate bottlings from
the Hacienda de Espana collection. Earlier this year,
Hacienda scored a coup by convincing superchef
Sergi Arola to create casual menus for some of its
restaurants.
Can Feliu, Mallorca
Afueras KM 1,000; 07260 Porreres (Mallorca);
Tel +34-609-613-213, www.sondagueta.com.
This adorable rural guesthouse proves that there’s
lots more to Mallorca than beaches. Located in the
island’s fertile interior about 20 miles east of Palma,
this “eco-agriturismo” is actually a working farm
surrounded by acres of organically cultivated plots
and an amazing profusion of flora and fauna. After
a day of exploring the island, guests come back to
the sturdy stone and stucco farmhouse outfitted with
a dreamy pool and a handful of bedrooms decorated in rich woods, wrought iron, blown glass, and
bright fabrics. There’s no formal restaurant on the
premises but if you’re lucky the owner might throw
an impromptu pig roast in the garden. Though wine
has been cultivated in the area for over two centuries, because of phyloxera, the owners replanted
their vineyards about a decade ago with Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Callet (a scarce local
variety). Guests are encouraged to play vintners by
participating in every stage of the wine-making process, from pruning to aging. But if they just want to
sniff, twirl, and sip—estupendo.
© Peralada Wine Spa
Hotel Omm, Barcelona
265 Carrer Rosselló, Barcelona; Tel: +34-93-4454000 or 866-376-7831; www.hotelomm.es.
This swanky hideaway right off Barcelona’s famous
Passeig de Gracia is the city’s sleekest urban hotel.
Owned by uber-restaurateur Rosa Maria Esteva
and staffed by hipsters, Omm can seem more like
a night club than a wine country retreat. So why
should oenophiles rush here? Because of the amazing wine list at Moo, the hotel’s designed-to-death
restaurant overseen by the burningly talented Roca
brothers (they also own the two Michelin-starred El
Celler de Can Roca in the Catalan town of Girona).
The Rocas channel their obsession with scents into
the restaurant’s innovative wine and food pairings.
Not content with the standard approach, they create
dishes that actually riff on and deconstruct the aromas of particular wines. For instance, a salad called
Verdejo, after a white Rueda grape, replicates the
wine’s delicate, grassy nose by layering lamb’s lettuce, mango, fennel, chervil, rhubarb, and dill oil. A
foie gras soup with cherries and an accent of coffee
echoes the aromas of the Banyuls Terra Vinya. With
over 600 labels, informative commentaries, and even
winemakers’ photos, the eclectic wine list has won the
young sommelier Roger Viusa the title of Europe’s best
sommelier in 2007.
7
© Jose Guerra
the global plate : AMERICAN CHINESE
By Jordan Mackay
toothsome potstickers, but I also found that
fino sherry did well. The briny, nutty roundness
When I was first asked to write an article of La Ina from Domecq was a good foil for
about pairing Spanish wine with Chinese both the crunchy shell and salty cabbage of
food, I thought it might be an impossible the eggrolls. On to the main courses, which
task. After all, conventional wisdom calls for had all come in the classic white, trapezoidal
German Riesling or simply a cold beer, not boxes with the metal handles that seem as
Spain’s big, bold, fruit-forward wines. So I important to Chinese food as soy sauce and
pondered which style of Chinese might be the white rice. For a fish course I ordered Dou Ban
most friendly to Spanish wine — Szechuan, Yu, Szechuan fish boiled in chili oil, as well
Cantonese, Shanghai?
as Salt-and-Pepper squid. For these it was only
But then I decided to be a little less geeky. natural to reach for one of the world’s great
After all, Chinese food is the world’s most wines with seafood, Albariño. A staple in my
ubiquitous. There’s hardly a country on earth house, Pazo de Señoráns 2007 had the brisk,
without at least one Chinese restaurant and nervous acidity to stand up to both dishes.
Chinese restaurants in the US outnumber For the mouth-burning fish, a wine with a little
McDonald’s 2-to-1. So I decided that the most sweetness might have been preferable (I went
practical menu to work off was probably just back to the Cristalino, which worked), but
the one of the Chinese restaurant down the there could have been nothing better with the
street from me in San Francisco, the Nan King squid than fresh, young Albariño.
Road Bistro. A big bag of takeout, a pair of
chopsticks, and two mixed cases of Spanish
wine later, I had my answers on how to pair
the world’s most popular food with some of the
world’s most popular wines.
Luckily, Spain offers a large palate of styles
and flavors to work from, and Chinese food
runs the gamut from sweet and spicy to sour
and savory. The challenge was to find wines
strong enough to stand up to the bold Asian
flavors of ginger, garlic, soy and chili that
still have complementary flavors. As it turned
out, the wines that made some of the best
For the chicken course, I chose perhaps the
matches were some of Spain’s most traditional two most common Chinese dishes in the world
— cava, sherry, and old-school reds.
-- Kung Pao and the indomitable General Tso.
At the top of my big bag of takeout were a The former, made with roasted peanuts and
couple of containers of soup and some fried chili peppers is slightly spicy, but also nutty
appetizers. I chose my two common soups: and salty. Two wines went well with this. First,
Wonton and Hot and Sour. With its delicate another sherry, this one a classic amontilbroth and slippery skin, for Wonton soup I lado: Lustau “Los Arcos.” Served slightly
wanted a wine with a little texture, and I found chilled, this was about the perfect wine for
that a straightforward cava like Freixenet or this dish, defusing the spice, while effortlessly
Codorníu did the trick. The bubbles provided complementing the peanuts. For General
a textural contrast, while the light, springy Tso’s--breaded and fried chunks of chicken in
flavor didnt overwhelm the soup. With the a tangy garlic sauce, I chose a crisp, clean
thicker Hot and Sour soup, and its mixture of white from Galicia, but something with a little
rice vinegar, mushrooms and soy, I needed more body than Albariño: Godello. On hand,
a wine with a little heavier flavor. The touch I had the Val de Sil “Montenovo” 2007 from
of red berry fruit in the Cristalino Rosé cava Valdeorras. It’s a racy wine, with a honeyed,
was lovely, as was the richer, more complex waxy character which allowed it to stand up
Gramona Grand Cuvée 2002. All the cavas to the rich, somewhat sweet General Tso.
continued to work wonderfully with my other Barrel-aged wines like Naiades from Rueda
appetizers, including crispy, fried eggrolls and would also work here. What’s important is a
8
somewhat robust body and good acidity.
Finally, the beef. Chinese beef dishes in
America are generally pretty uniform: Stir-fried
in a wok with a sort of miscellaneous brown
sauce that includes oyster and soy sauces, as
well as some vegetables like shitake mushrooms, carrots and broccoli. All these salty,
earthy and savory elements make for pretty
fertile ground for a certain kind of red wine.
What works are Spanish reds with an earthy,
almost mushroomy character of their own.
What doesn’t work are red wines with a lot of
new oak, as the sweet vanillin character will
clash with the savory food.
For my Beef and Broccoli and Pepper Beef
dishes, I looked to Rioja and Bierzo. From
Rioja, I tried a few of the more traditional
styles. For earthy and mushroomy you can’t
do much better worldwide than López de
Heredia “Viña Tondonia.” I picked up a
bottle of the 1999 at a local wine shop and
found a great match. It had enough cherry
fruit to be delightful in the mouth, but its spice,
earth and tobacco perfectly set off the sauce.
Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva 2004 also
went well with the beef. Replete with blackberry, mineral and smoke, the younger wine
was more assertive than the Viña Tondonia,
but managed to be pleasantly bright and fruity
without contradicting the sauce. With the pepper beef, I very much liked the 2006 Pétalos
Bierzo from Descendientes de José Palacios.
The wine has plum, blackberry, violets and
black pepper which allowed it to nestle up to
the peppery beef. A bit too much garlic in the
beef made the wine seem a touch sour, but it
wasn’t offensive.
And you can’t forget the fortune cookie,
which was crisp and nutty — a perfect foil
for the smooth, sweet Oloroso Dulce from
Barbadillo, a wine whose fine character
comes from Palamino with just a touch of
old Pedro Ximénez. My fortune, “A pleasant
surprise is in store for you,” seemed to come
a little late. Spanish wine and Chinese food?
I couldn’t think of a more pleasant surprise
than that.
Jordan Mackay has written about wine
for Wine and Spirits, Food & Wine, the
Los Angeles Times and the San Francisco
Chronicle. He is the wine and spirits editor
of the metropolitan magazine 7x7 in San
Francisco, where he lives.
9
(chefs & sommeliers on wine)
BAR PINTXO:
Seeking Authenticity in Santa Monica
By André Mello
Sommelier Chris Keller
Photo courtesy of Bar Pintxo
About the author:
André Mello is a Los Angeles
based writer. His favorite snack
food is pimientos de padrón
(with a glass of Albariño).
Bar Pintxo is located at
109 Santa Monica Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Tel: 310.458.2012.
10
Chef Joseph Miller, owner of the successful Joe’s
Restaurant in Venice Beach, California, has been
delighting the palates of loyal costumers with his
California-French culinary creations for almost
two decades. Less than a year ago, Joe decided
to take on a new challenge by opening a tapas
bar in the heart of Santa Monica.
Striving for authenticity, Bar Pintxo brings a
little bit of Spain to California through its warm
atmosphere and casual yet sophisticated décor.
The restaurant’s walls are lined with bottles of
wine proudly displayed alongside an array of
gourmet Spanish delicacies – from manzanilla
olives to bonito tuna in olive oil – in colorful cans
and jars. Bold and unique flavors are present
in both its food and wine selections. Since the
wine list is new to most costumers in the area,
as is the tapas experience itself, Joe has successfully carried out his plan to bring diversity to the
neighborhood. I took a drive along the beautiful
Santa Monica shore to Bar Pintxo, where I spoke
to Chef Joe Miller and sommelier Chris Keller
about their passion for Spanish food and wine
as well as the challenges of recreating the tapas
experience in the United States.
André: After specializing in French cuisine for
almost two decades. Why open a tapas bar?
Joe: I love Spanish food and I saw that there was
nobody doing that here. I’ve seen restaurants do
their own rendition of what Spanish cuisine is
supposed to be, but I never thought they really hit
it right, so my goal was to bring to Santa Monica
what I saw in Spain. I wanted the food to taste
as good as it tasted in Spain.
André: Which do you think carries the most
weight in a tapas bar, the food or the wine?
Joe: I think the food and the wine complement
each other. At Bar Pintxo I wanted to highlight
the Spanish wine list, something that’s not done
a lot in this country. To put the two together and
to show how they work is so important. I wanted
© André Mello
eltaburete
to be authentic and bring something new to
the neighborhood.
André: How did you go about selecting the
wine list for Pintxo?
Chris: I wanted to concentrate on DOs
that weren’t people’s first choices.
Everyone has heard of Tempranillo or
Rioja, but they don’t know about wines
like Mencía, Viura or Txakolina. So
we wanted to introduce people to
the great depth, freshness and breadth of
Spain's wines, and it’s culinary and winemaking
history.
André: How has the neighborhood responded to Bar Pintxo?
Joe: When we first started, we tried to replicate the tapas bar experience in Spain,
which is a casual, relaxed neighborhood
watering hole. But I realized I had to make
some changes. For example, like tapas bars
in Spain, we didn’t have chairs at the bar and
that had to be fixed real fast. People were
like: Where’s my chair?
Also, in Barcelona, San Sebastián or Seville,
a lot of the tapas bars display the food on the
counter, something we can’t do here because
it would be considered a health hazard. We
also have a no reservations policy because
we want to keep it casual and fun like it is in
Spain, which sometimes takes people aback,
but I believe it’s something they’re getting
used to.
Chef Joseph Miller © André Mello
Chris: Finca l’Argatà, from D.O. Montsant,
a blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Cabernet
Sauvignon. The beautiful old world character of this wine transcends location, to
some extent, and lends itself to the cuisine
of Spain. This wine even inspired Joe and
André: What’s would you say is special me to make our very own Tinto Tarantula as
a tribute to Cellers Joan d’Anguera’s Finca
about Spanish cuisine?
l’Argatà. We wanted to capture the old
Joe: The range of contrasting flavors – the world sensibilities of the palate and show that
whole salty, sour, sweet and bitter combina- you can make old world wines in California
tions – they put together effortlesly in a single with great success.
bite is what stands out. Spanish cuisine has its
own flavors, the result of a rich history. There André: What’s your favorite region?
are a lot of the same techiques as in French
cuisine, yet the combination of what someone Chris: Galicia and Ribeira Sacra. The
whites are super bright with a great
will put in front of you is unique.
mineral component, and this leads
André: Did you adapt or change any of the to great food pairing. Mencía from
Ribeira Sacra is the most versatile
tapas recipes?
wine I have found in recent memory.
Joe: They’re mostly things I saw, not things You can serve D. Ventura “Viña Caneiro”, from
that I had a recipe for. I’d taste something Ribeira Sacra, to someone who likes heavier
and think, "That’s a pretty neat combination." wines and they will like it. You can also serve it
In Barcelona, what they do with the Russian to someone who prefers lighter wines and they
salad, for example, is that they add tuna. So will also like it, so, it’s all things to all people and
it was originally a Russian Tuna salad. I took you don’t see that very often in wine.
the richness of the tuna out, and replaced it
with cheese, since I was looking for something André: What's your favorite tapa on the
vegetarian to have on the menu, because you menu?
have to think about that sort of thing in L.A.
Joe: Endive with Picón blue cheese - from
André: What's your favorite wine on the menu? Asturias in the north of Spain - aged in chest-
nut leaves, with sweet walnuts and anchovies. It’s kind of an unusual array of flavors,
but for me it is the perfect combination.
You have the sweetness of the walnuts, the
pungent taste of the cheese, the bitterness
of the endives, and to cut that bitterness
and round it all off you have the saltiness
of the anchovies.
Chris: I would pair this tapa with a wine
from Ribera del Duero. Our Valduero is a
lovely red wine made with all Tempranillo
(a.k.a Tinto Fino in this region) grapes. It´s
a crianza, but still aged a bit longer in oak.
Very round, full bodied, with a bit of spice
on the end.
André: Do you think a tapas bar is a good
place to dine for somebody who wants to
know more about wine? Chris: Absolutely. It takes people away
from what they know and provides new
flavors and a sense of terroir. Spanish food
is unfamiliar to people in the U.S. unless
they have spent time traveling and eating
in Spain. Joe and I went to Spain for two
weeks, enjoying lots of food and wine,
and garnered the whole experience for
ourselves. We also had the time of our lives!
We tried to bring Spain back to
the States with us. I think we did a
pretty good job.
11
elsacacorchos
(small sips of big news)
Fashionable Rioja
For the third
season in a
row, Vibrant
Rioja was the
official
wine
of MercedesBenz Fashion
Week in New
York from September 5-12. Campaign activities included a consumer model search, retail
tastings, a launch of the CIA DVD and a partnership with Project Runway designers Jack
Mackenroth (at left in photo) and Kevin Christiana (right). Visit www.vibrantrioja.com.
Rías Baixas Winners
During the Third Annual Rías Baixas Recipe
Contest, contestants from around the nation
logged onto the campaign website to enter
their recipes. Grand Prize was awarded to Edwina Gadsby of Great Falls, MT, for her Spicy
Thai Crab and Sweet Corn Fritters recipe. The
winning recipes pair wonderfully with Albariño's refreshing acidity and fruity characteristics.
The distinguished panel of judges included
Harold Dieterle, Top Chef Season One
winner,and Food & Wine's Ray Isle. For more
information visit www.riasbaixaswines.com.
Ferran Adrià in U.S.
“A Day at elBulli,” renowned Spanish chef
Ferran Adrià’s new book, published by PhaidVibrant Rioja and the Culinary Institute of on Press, was unveiled recently in the US. Two
America produced an interactive website and well-attended parties introduced Adrià to chefs
DVD, which look at Rioja through the eyes of and press, one at Per Se in New York City
young American sommeliers. Featured are in- on October 9, and the other at S Bar in Los
terviews with winemakers and world-renowned Angeles, on October 13. Thomas Keller, Alchefs, roundtable discussions with CIA profes- ice Waters, Martha Stewart, Alain Ducasse,
sional chefs, and comparative tasting notes. José Andrés and Wylie Dufresne, shown beVisit www.CIAProChef.com to learn more and low, attended the New York event.
order a free DVD.
A Unique DVD
Pago Status Awarded
Bodegas Julián Chivite's Señorío de Arinzano
vineyard has just been awarded Pago status,
Spain's highest level of classification. The estate
is Spain's fifth Pago DO, following Dominio de
Valdepusa, Finca Elez, Guijoso and Dehesa
del Carrizal (all in Castilla La Mancha). John
Radford, in The New Spain, describes it as
"a special category of quality wine introduced © Luis Martínez
by the 2003 wine law, after the regional government of Castilla-La Mancha introduced it in
2000. It is reserved for single estates of the
highest international reputation that may or may
Consumers are looking for ways to trim budnot be members of a formal DO."
gets without sacrificing the spirit of the holiday
season. Among all the creative shopping tactics, Spanish wines remain a good value and a
great gift idea. Thanks in part to its expanding
Woody Allen selected Alvaro Palacios’ wines
industry, Spain has been able to buck the trend
to appear in his recently released film, “Vicky
of price increases on its wines and continues
Cristina Barcelona.” Actor Javier Bardem
to offer consumers a luxury product without the
and actresses Scarlett Johansson and Penédebilitating price tag. For further information,
lope Cruz star in this Spain-based comedy,
contact [email protected].
entertaining viewers while sipping wine from
Palacios estates in Priorat, Bierzo and Rioja.
Holiday Shoppers Turn
to Spanish Wines
Spain's Wines in Allen Film
Small Bites, Big Flavors
In New York City, Chefs Alexandra Raij and
Eder Montero just opened Txikito at 240 Ninth
Avenue at 24th Street, tel 212.242.4730,
while Chef Seamus Mullen's Boquería Soho
opened its doors at 171 Spring Street, between Thompson and West Broadway, tel
212.343.4255.
12
Copa Jerez 2009
The Sherry Council of America has announced that the 2009 Copa Jerez food and
Sherry pairing competition is underway. Now
in its third year, the Copa Jerez competition is
an important international culinary event. Chef
and Sommelier teams nationwide collaborate
to submit innovative recipes and Sherry wine
pairings. Five U.S. teams are selected to cook
live at the semi-finals in December before a live
panel of judges. The winning chef and sommelier team from the U.S. will travel to Jerez,
Spain in January, 2009, for the international
finals where they will compete against semi-finalists from other nations. For information, visit
www.sherry.org.
Kingdom of Flavors
Spain's Kingdom of Navarra will present a
seminar and tasting on Jan. 22, 2009, in
NYC, featuring 20 wine producers from the region. The event will be open only to wine and
food professionals. Internationally renowned
Navarran Chef Enrique Martínez of Restaurant Maher will prepare a selection of tapas
to accompany the wines. While a specialty of
Navarra, located in the Ebro River Valley in
northern Spain, is rosados, it also produces a
range of excellent red and white wines. For
information and reservations email [email protected] or visit www.myoungcom.com/eventreservations.
Whole Foods' Top Ten
Whole Foods Market unveiled its selection of
Top Ten Wines for the Holidays. “Our Top Ten
Wine picks this holiday season are a perfect
balance of reds, whites and sparklers that are
some of the highest quality, most versatile, and
affordable wines for the season,” said Doug
Bell, global wine buyer for Whole Foods Market. The list, available in stores and online at
www.wholefoodsmarket.com/holidays/entertaining/toptenwines.php, includes Spanish wines Tarantas Brut Cava (organic) and
Pipon Valencia red wine.
Gastronomy Conference
The San Sebastián Gastronomy Conference
(Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía) took place in
November in that food-loving city of northern
Spain. Renowned chef Martín Berasategui
was one of the speakers. At this annual event,
Spain's top chefs show off their culinary skills,
give cooking masterclasses and vie for awards.
Popular with visitors is the opportunity to learn
the art of making pinchos, the typical tapas of
the Basque Country. www.lomejordelagastronomia.com.
labodega (inside wines from spain)
South Beach Wine &
Food Festival 2009
Wines from Spain will be hosting a pavilion at
the 2009 Food Network South Beach Wine
& Food Festival, to take place from February
19 to 22. The Festival, presented by Food &
Wine, is a star-studded, 4-day event showcasing the talents of renowned winemakers, spirits
producers, chefs and culinary personalities.
Hosted by Southern Wine & Spirits of Florida
and Florida International University (FIU),
the festival benefits the Teaching Restaurant
and the Southern Wine & Spirits Beverage
Management Center. Some of the seminars
focused on Spain are Spanish Superstars,
Sherry & Cheese Pairing, Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial
Vertical Tasting, and a Vega Sicilia Wine
Seminar. A well-known festival, SOBE is set
against the backdrop of America’s Riviera,
South Beach, FL. For information visit www.
sobefest.com/2009.
First Spanish MW
Selected
Pancho Campo, president and founder of
The Wine Academy of Spain, passed the
three-part examination administered by the
Institute of Masters of Wine, becoming the
first Spanish Master of Wine (MW). As a
new MW, Campo joins an elite group of
less than 276 others who have earned the
title worldwide since 1953. Campo's first
action as a newly titled MW brought him
to the US, where he conducted the Spanish
Wine Education certification and Spanish
wines master class October 21-23 in New
York. For more about The Wine Academy
of Spain, visit www.thewineacademy.com.
Great Match 2008
Wines from Spain’s 15th annual Great
Match: Wine and Tapas series finished another successful run this October. The walkaround Spanish wine tasting tour visited
five cities in 2008, including Scottsdale,
AZ, Las Vegas, Dallas, New York and the
first-ever event in Orlando, going out with a
The Spanish Wine Cellar & Pantry makes its bang at the Walt Disney World Epcot Inannual appearance in NYC and San Fran- ternational Food and Wine Festival.
cisco in April 2009. This gathering presents
the latest wines and foods from up-and-coming
Spanish producers to trade who are seeking to
source the undiscovered bounty of Spain and
to media who wish to learn about new prod- In November 2008, the Culinary Institute
ucts. Over 60 Spanish wine and food compa- of America at Greystone in Napa, CA,
nies will attend, allowing buyers and sellers to staged A Mediterranean Flavor Odyssey:
connect directly. The New York event will be Preserving and Re-Inventing Traditions
held April 20 and the San Francisco will held for Modern Palates. This multi-dimensional
April 22. Visit www.spanishwinecellar.com event, attended by more than 700 people,
and www.thespanishpantry.com.
brought together a faculty of over 60 top
NAKED
GOAT ®
Raw Goat Cheese
from Murcia, Spain
Aged over 6 months
Herbaceous,
Nutty,
Flavorful
Spanish Wine Cellar
& Pantry 2009
Worlds of Flavor
Conference 2008
Madrid Fusión 2009
For the 7th year, Madrid will become the gastronomic capital of the world. From Jan. 19-22,
2009, the city hosts Madrid Fusión. In addition to a special focus on Mexico, an exciting
program has been planned, including something radically new: Audiovisual gastronomy!
This will consist of debates on themes such as
the restaurant of the future, problems with service, and high risk avant-garde cuisine. These
interactive debates will be accompanied by
film screenings. The conference also focuses on
culinary neo-naturalism, cooking with ecological
awareness and many associated expressions
(farm-food, organic-food, nursery food, and gastro-botany). Add to this the many tastings, competitions and regional pavilions, and you have
a not-to-be-missed event. Some of Spain´s best
wines will be tasted in parallel seminars. For further information visit www.madridfusion.net.
chefs, market cooks, food writers, beverage
experts, food producers, and other authorities from throughout the Mediterranean and
across the US. Guests enjoyed seminars,
tastings, demonstrations, and the colorful
World Marketplace. Some of the seminars
co-hosted by Wines from Spain were Native Varietals of Spain and the Culinary
Flavors They Inspire and The Mediterranean Wines of Spain...with Small Bites
from a Catalan Kitchen. For information
visit www.ciaprochef.com.
2008 NY Film Festival
Wines from Spain starred in the 2008 New
York Film Festival, one of the premier festivals of the season. From Angelina Jolie to
Martin Scorsese, Hollywood’s elite showcased their work as they sipped on Spain’s
finest wines between films.
MASTERS OF THE
MEDITERRANEAN
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John Radford revisits one of Spain’s most ancient and versatile wine-producing areas.
Montilla is one of the undiscovered jewels of Andalucía.
Motorists pound by on the AP6 between Madrid and
Seville, visitors are seduced by the magnificence of the
city of Córdoba, but those who venture south about 45
km on the A45 will find a haven of tranquility, excellent
hospitality, and ancient churches, mansions, a castle,
and a style of architecture unique to the area: Andaluz
bright, white-painted walls, but always with a border
of golden-yellow to represent the sun and the spotless,
chalky vineyard soils.
Montilla and the neighboring town of Moriles (about 22
km to the south) are perhaps best known for their wine.
Over the centuries the local grape, Pedro Ximénez
(known colloquially as ‘PX’) has become perfectly
harmonized with the chalky soils of the ‘superior’
vineyard areas, which retain rainwater like a sponge,
even in the baking-hot summer months. The result is a
range of wines unparalleled anywhere in the world,
made from a single grape.
Imagine light, fresh, fruity young wines ideal with
seafood, and powerful, bone-dry vinos generosos in
the Sherry style but lighter and more delicate. Such is
the partnership between grape, soil and sun in Montilla
that these wines can be made without fortification (the
addition of brandy), and aged in soleras, blended with
mature wines to create a consistent finished style.
The dry wines of Montilla may be called ‘pale dry’
and ‘Fino’ for younger wines, and ‘Amontillado’ for
more mature examples. These last have a wonderful,
nutty, savory aroma and are simply splendid with
cooked and cured meats, especially the charcuterie,
from Iberian and Serrano ham to chorizo and morcilla,
for which Andalucía is justly famous.
14
King, or Queen if you prefer, of the Montilla wine hierarchy
are the sweet PX wines, still made in a style which
Shakespeare (who was something of an aficionado)
would recognise. The grapes are picked fully ripe and
then laid out on esparto-grass mats in the sun. The grapes
shrivel into raisins as the water-content is evaporated by
the sun and, when the winemaker judges that the time is
right - typically when two-thirds of the juice has been lost the grapes are pressed and fermented. The natural yeast
tends to expire when the alcoholic strength reaches 6-9%,
and brandy is added to bring it up to 17%. The wine is
then aged in stone jars known as tinajas, or put into a
solera system, where it will mix with previous vintages
and take on a particular house style. Some houses make
an añada (literally ‘season’ or ‘vintage year’). Most make
solera wines, in which the new wine is added to the
top row of barrels, and progresses through several lower
levels until it has become part of the finished product.
Some of the older soleras still contain minute amounts of
wine which may have gone into the system a hundred
years ago, which is how it provides a consistency of style
from generation to generation.
A recent tasting in Bristol, England, presented the
wide range of styles available from Montilla PX, from
delicately citrussy and coffee-scented añadas to velvety,
deep, almost black solera wines, 20, 30 and 40 years
old... And at tremendous value-for-money prices. Names
to look out for include Alvear, Pérez Barquero, Musa, La
Aurora, Moreno, Navisa and Toro Albalá.
And be adventurous: naturally these sweet wines go with
ice-cream and rich, creamy desserts as well as doing
after-dinner duty with figs, dates and nuts, but try them
with foie-gras, strong cheeses and spicy, Mexican-style
chilli dishes. And prepare yourself to be amazed.
Where to eat
Restaurante Las
Camachas,
Avda Europa 3, 14550
Montilla.Tel.: (011-34)
957-650-004; fax:
(011-34) 957-650-332;
e-mail: lascamachas@
restaurantelascamachas.
com
In a town packed with
bars and restaurants, this
is generally considered the
best, with a wide-ranging
menu of local specialities
and Spanish classics.
The architectural style
is Andaluz with a high
central atrium in the main
restaurant, and a beguiling
wine-cellar below.
About the author:
John Radford is an awardwinning author, writer and
broadcaster with an informed
interest in the food and wine of
the Mediterranean, especially
Spain. For more information
please go to www.johnradford.
com
Images on this page courtesy of Montilla PX UK, except photo of wine glasses © CRDO Montilla-Moriles.
postmark:MONTILLA-MORILES
Where to stay
Hotel Don Gonzalo,
Ctra 331 CórdobaMálaga, km 47, 14550
Montilla. Tel.: (011-34)
957-650-658; fax: (01134) 957-650-666; email:
gestion@hoteldongonzalo.
com; rooms from around
€60.
This is a smart, modern,
three-star hotel in the
Andaluz style, about 3 km
from the town centre. It has
a swimming pool, tennis
court, spa and gardens,
and rooms have air
conditioning and internet
access.
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