Bring Your Appetite for Mesquite Grilled Variety, But Leave Your Six-Shooters at Home alking into Pecos Grilling Company on a Saturday night is a bit like walking into the saloon at Dodge City. Entering the restaurant, which features fine dining with a Texas twang, you will first encounter a full bar that is a popular watering hole where Tomball, Magnolia and Waller locals share fellowship with visitors from The Woodlands, Spring, the FM 1960 area and other 'far-flung' communities. (The restaurant closes at 10 p.m., but the bar closes, "when we get through having fun.") But whether you are a regular or not, you can count on an ample, delicious meal followed by a unique, signature dessert (and you will probably order dessert whether you have room for it or not – they are that good). Pecos is a great place to take the family; the sheer variety assures that everyone will find something that suits them. Despite its high ceilings and fixtures and floors of dark wood, the atmosphere is semi-casual, a little more noisy than hushed, with contemporary country music playing in the background. It is somehow reminiscent of the founding days of Tomball when the lumbermill was the principal employer in this neck of the woods and the law of the land was, "come as you are." Dodge City sheriff Fred Sembera is often in attendance (when not busy running his other business providing home security). He is gracious and affable, and soon enough will know you by name. Managing partner and executive chef Chuck Buenger has a team of attentive staff, making sure every guest leaves satisfied and, more importantly, unable to eat another bite. The offerings at Pecos cover all the staple items, yet there are enough unique items that it would never be confused with the menu from any other restaurant. The truth is, almost all of the menu items are unique. Between Fred and Chuck the culinary inspiration is in ongoing development, and they are frequently testing a new idea in the kitchen. The most popular of these will eventually make it onto the menu. Fred, his wife Barbara, and Chuck founded the restaurant in February, 2004. An entrepreneur at heart, Fred wanted to get into the restaurant business, but didn't have the industry background needed to assure a successful start-up. Barbara Sembera is also an entrepreneur; she owns a local State Farm Insurance agency. As luck would have it, Fred was introduced by a restauranteur friend to Chuck, who at that point had more than a decade of experience in restaurant management. "Fred brought a new perspective to the restaurant business," Chuck said, adding that, "I had been in the restaurant business for so long that, in a sense, I had on blinders. Fred would suggest a new idea that I might have previously ruled out. Now I was asking myself, 'why the heck can't we do that?'" By this process, the two have created a restaurant that attends to all the things that influence the choices people make about where to eat. The only hard part about visiting Pecos is deciding what to order. Some of the regular patrons are still working their way through the many entrees, not having decided on a favorite. Others have made their choice and order it faithfully. One such customer is auto racing legend A. J. Foyt, a resident of Waller who makes frequent sojourns to Pecos for the "World's Greatest Ribeye" (as it says on the menu, "A. J. Foyt's Favorite Steak"). The item, described as "mesquite-grilled, hand cut, well marbled, and most flavorful," is even accompanied by Foyt's signature to leave no doubt as to the authenticity of the endorsement. As true citizens of the state of Texas, the Pecos folks know exactly how to prepare steak. No matter which cut you prefer, this grilling company demonstrates consistent skill when it comes to the deceptively simple process of grilling beef. Other selections include Mesquite Smoked Ribeye, Center Cut Filet, Filet Mignon (Bacon Wrapped), Porterhouse (TBone Heaven), Choice Top Sirloin and Chopped Steak. After 4:00 p.m. they also offer First Class Prime Rib, slow roasted and carved to your order. Chuck and Fred each have signature beef entrees that keep patrons coming back. Chuck's Famous Pot Roast is "quietly" cooked overnight "while Chuck is sleeping." Fred's Famous Beef Tips is made from sirloin, slowcooked in its own seasoned gravy, and served over noodles or rice. The seafood selection is plentiful. One of the best selections is the Shrimp Brochette. They take eight jumbo shrimp, stuff them with a sliver of poblano pepper and a wedge of jack cheese, then wrap them with a slice of bacon and grill them over mesquite. (They will also fry them on request.) The Shrimp Brochette is served with either scampi butter or barbecue sauce – we highly recommend the latter, as it creates a medley of flavors that is simply outstanding. From their mesquite grill they also serve up farm-raised catfish filets, Mahi Mahi, Atlantic salmon, and jumbo gulf shrimp. Pecos also offers tilapia with artichoke dill sauce, pan sauteed rainbow trout, fried shrimp, and their variation of shrimp scampi. Called Shrimp Rafael, eight jumbo shrimp are sauteed in scampi butter and served over rice primavera with roasted garlic cream sauce. Pecos has created a new version of an old favorite chicken dish, which they call "Coo Coo Chicken." They take an eight ounce chicken breast, grill it Hawaiian style, and serve it on a bed of rice with a grilled pineapple ring (sounds familiar so far, right?)... then they top it with julienned red peppers and roasted coconut, and drizzle it with a coconut rum sauce. If Hawaiian is not to your taste, the Cozumel Chicken provides a lively alternative from the mesquite grill. The fajita marinated dish is covered with homemade salsa, melted pepperjack cheese, avocado, sour cream, chives, tomatoes, and lettuce. Those who prefer their chicken closer-to-home may opt for Grandma Gladys' Chicken and Dumplings or prepared fried or mesquite grilled. There are many other entrees; worthy of mention are Center Cut Pork Chops, Sun-Dried Tomato Fettucine, and Lasagna. Pecos has an ample selection of appetizers, soups and salad, and sandwiches from which to choose. Tthere is also a lunch menu. At last... dessert! Delicious Mesquite Grilled Banana Pudding, and Pecos' Brownie Meltdown (worthy of its title). As you eat dessert you will be thinking, "Life is good." Beyond doubt, the desserts at Pecos are good. For variety, a fair deal, a square meal, and a convivial atmosphere that reaches both toward the old west and new world elegance, Pecos Grilling Company is an establishment of merit. Leave your six-shooters at home, bring your appetite, and prepare to enjoy a really good dinner, Texas style.
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