How to build a
Warrior Tournament of Champions
Scale Electric Football Field
By: Jerry McGhee
© March 2013
[email protected]
1
A Message from the Author
Welcome to the wonderful world of Do-It-Yourself in electric football!! I have been
building my own scale electric football game boards since 1998. I have built
approximately 36 scale game boards since then. What I have designed and
conveyed to you in this document should bring you years of enjoyment!
This scale of electric football fields opens up the game and makes for a more
satisfied experience for your coaching enjoyment.
In January 2013 the Miniature Football Coaches Association (MFCA) & I hosted a new stop on the MFCA Tournament
of Champions (TOC) Series, the Warrior TOC in Lakeland, FL. The tournament was played on scale “Warrior TOC”
game boards and that is what you will be building if you complete these instructions.
The scale of these game boards is is ½” = 1 yard. If you take the time to build this game board you will not be
disappointed. Take your time, read the instructions through carefully and don’t be afraid to get help if you need it. Note
the periodic warnings as they could save your life! If you modify this, go for it, however I cannot guarantee you will
have the same successful results as I have had.
Many people ask me if I will build a game board for them. The answer is yes, however, I do not ship my game boards.
If you want me to build a game board for you, you have to come to my house in Florida and pick it up. I do not bend on
this rule.
My hope is that you will try and build this game board, enjoy playing on it and I know it will open up new dimensions
and possibilities in your electric football experience. I plan on hosting the Warrior TOC every year here in Lakeland,
FL. I hope to see you here so you can experience these scale electric football game boards in a very competitive setting
and I hope you enjoy playing on this scale field I have designed for you!
Sincerely,
Jerry McGhee
2
How to build a Warrior Tournament of Champions
Scale Electric Football Field
Table of Contents
Building Segment 1: The Playing Surface
Building Segment 2: The Frame
Building Segment 3: The Motors
Building Segment 4: Wiring
Building Segment 5: Frame Finishing
Building Segment 6: Frame Stickers
Building Segment 7: Tuning The Motors
Building Segment 8: Field Accessories
3
Building Segment 1:
The Playing Surface
4
Step 1: Gather your materials
You will need the following to complete
this segment:
a. One 24 or 22 Gauge piece of sheet
metal cut to 66 ½ “ x 33 ½ “
b. A clean surface to work on.
c. One spray bottle filled with soap and
water
d. Large Magnets (or you can use tape)
e. A plastic squeegee tool (blue item in
picture)
f. Field cover
g. X-acto knife with #11 blade
5
Step 2: Place Field Cover on Sheet Metal
Before you peel the adhesive layer off of
the back of your field cover, lay the entire
field cover over the sheet metal.
After you line up your outer edges and
ensure no sheet metal is showing, place
the large magnets on one half of the field
cover to hold it in place as shown in this
photo.
6
Step 3: Pull Back Field Cover
Pull one half of the field cover back over the
other half.
7
Step 4: Remove the Adhesive protection layer
You may now remove the adhesive protection
layer from the half of the field cover that we
just pulled back. Let the protective layer lay
flat on the sheet metal half.
8
Step 5: Cut the protective layer away
Using an X-Acto knife, cut the entire width of
the protective layer, make sure that you’re not
cutting the field cover.
Pull the protective layer away and throw it
away.
9
Step 6: Prepare the sheet metal
Now that the protective layer has been
removed, make sure the sheet metal is free of
dust and debris. Take a clean brush or a clean
cloth and go over the sheet metal to make sure
there is ABSOLUTELY no foreign particles such
as crumbs or hair.
10
Step 7: Apply Soap & Water
Grab your spray bottle with soap & water. I
used regular tap water with two drops of dawn
dish detergent.
Spray the sticky side of the exposed field cover
and the exposed side of the sheet metal with
ample soap & water.
11
Step 8: Pull ½ of field cover onto sheet metal
Carefully bring ½ of the field cover back onto
the sheet metal.
Grab your squeegee, start at the center of the
50 yard line and move the squeegee toward
the sideline you are standing on.
The soap and water will come out at the
sideline. Have a paper towel waiting to soak it
up so it doesn’t get sucked back up under the
field cover.
Now do the same procedure in 5 yard
increments all the way down the field cover.
Then do the other sideline half.
12
Step 9: Apply the remaining half
Now that you have squeegeed all of the soap
and water from under your field cover, take
the magnets off of the ½ of the board you
were holding down and for safe keeping
transfer them to the other half of the field.
Now repeat steps 2-8 of this segment until you
have the field cover applied to the sheet
metal.
Once the Field cover is on the sheet metal, let
it sit overnight. It will be “stuck like chuck” by
the next day!
Special NOTE: If you choose to not use the soap and water and just
put the sticky side down on the sheet metal thinking “this man is
crazy, there’s no way this field cover is going to stick after putting
soap and water on it!” Well then go ahead and recreate the wheel
Captain Caveman…more than likely you will get a wrinkle in the field
cover and you will hate it for all time and eternity and no one will
like playing on your field. Trust me about the soap and water…it
works!
13
Step 10: Trim the Field Cover
More than likely you are going to
have some of the field cover
hanging over the sheet metal on
the edges.
Get your X-acto knife and
carefully trim away the excess
from the sheet metal.
Once the field cover has been
trimmed, set it aside in a safe
place.
14
Building Segment 2:
The Frame
15
Step 1: Gather Your Materials
For this building segment you will need the
following materials
(not all items are pictured):
a. Three 8’ pieces of 11/16” x 3 ½” MDF
board (outer frame)
b. Three 8’ pieces of 11/16”x 1 ½ MDF board
(inner frame)
c. Drill
d. Saw
e. Phillips Screw Driver or bit
f. 13/64” Drill Bit
g. #10 x 2 ½” Wood Screws
h. #12 Countersink
i. C Clamps
j. #6 1 ¼” Sheet rock screws
k. Tape Measure and ruler
l. X-acto knife
m. Sharpie
n. Square
o. Good flat & clean building surface
p. Patience
16
Outer Frame Dimensions
35 ¼ “
66 ¾ “
17
Inner Frame Dimensions
35 ¼ “
32 ½ “
66 5/8 “
66 ¾ “
18
Cross Brace Dimensions
12“
35 ¼ “
7“
33 7/8“
32 ½ “
66 5/8 “
66 ¾ “
19
Warrior TOC Board Total Frame Dimensions
Top View
12“
35 ¼ “
32 ½ “
24“
28“
7“
33 7/8“
66 5/8 “
66 ¾ “
Side View
3¾“
1 ¼“
1½ “
¾“
1“
20
Step 1: Cutting the Outer Frame
Cut two of your 11/16”x 3 ½ “ MDF Boards to
66 ¾”.
Then take your remaining 11/16”x 3 ½ “ MDF
Board and cut it into two pieces measuring
35 ¼” each.
(See notes on next page prior to cutting)
21
Step 1 (continued): Cutting the Outer Frame
Make sure you cut on the correct side of your
Measurement.
After you cut your boards you should then
have four pieces of board for your frame that
you will assemble in the remaining steps of this
segment.
22
Now Clean your work area
Get rid of all your saw dust
23
Step 2: Mark and Drill Holes
With your 35 ¼” boards laid out you are going
to mark a total of 8 places to drill on outer ¾”
edge of each board.
Make sure your marks are centered within that
¾” edge.
(read ahead if you’re not sure why we’re doing
this, it should all become clear)
24
Step 3: Countersink each hole
Using your #12 Countersink, drill out each hole
to allow the screw head to seat flush with the
board. This will allow your covering to set flat
and not show your screw holes.
Once each countersink has been done take an
X-acto knife and trim the MDF board. See next
page for final results.
25
Step 3: Countersink each hole (continued)
You should now have a total of eight holes on
the end of each 35 ¼” outer frame board and
each hole should be countersunk by now as
well. The ends of your boards should look like
this photo.
26
Now Clean your work area
Get rid of all your saw dust
27
Step 4: Test fit one corner end of your frame
Take a long 66 ¾” outer frame board and a
short 35 ¼” outer frame board and get ready
to assemble them.
Lay each piece up against one another and
make sure that the corners will become square
and that there are no warps in each board.
Minor imperfections are OK as the board will
become straight after we put the screws in.
28
Step 5: Mark the pilot hole location
With the corner lined up, you’re going to very
carefully make a mark on the end of each long
board by putting your 13/64” drill bit into the
holes of the short board and slowly turning on
your drill.
All you want to do here is make a mark of
where your screw hole will line up with the
pilot hole.
29
Step 6: Drill Pilot Holes in long board
The objective of this step is to drill two 13/64”
pilot holes in the long board to keep the wood
from splitting when you put the screw in.
Make sure your drill bit is set deep enough to
allow for the entire screw in the hole, consider
the width of the short board in your
measurement.
Remove short board and carefully drill each
hole level and straight.
It should now look like this
30
Step 7: Screw Corner Together
Using your square and two #10 2 ½” screws
carefully and slowly screw the corner of the
gameboard together.
31
Step 8: Screw Next Corner Together
Repeat steps 4-7 of this segment for the next
corner of the short board.
When that is complete you should have ½ of
your outer frame together.
32
Step 9: Screw Remaining Two Corners
Together
Repeat steps 4-7 again of this segment for the
remaining two corners of your outer frame.
Once complete your outer frame will be
complete.
33
Now Clean your work area
Get rid of all your saw dust
34
Step 10: Mark Inner Frame Location
In these next few steps you will cut and
assemble the inner frame that the sheet metal
will rest on.
First, on inner facing sides of your outer frame
measure 1 ¼” down from the top of your outer
frame.
(read ahead if you’re not sure what or why
we’re doing this, it will all become clear).
35
Step 11: Cut Four Inner Frame Pieces
Using the three 8’ pieces of 11/16”x 1 ½ MDF
board (inner frame) you will make the
following cuts:
Two 66 5/8” long inner frame pieces
Two 32 1/2” short inner frame pieces
36
Step 12: Place one long inner frame piece in
Place a long inner frame piece into the outer
frame and make sure it is set to your 1 ¼”
depth marks that you made in step 10 of this
segment.
I made several marks in step 10 to make sure
this piece lays in straight at the 1 ¼” depth
mark.
37
Step 13: Mount Inner Frame Long Piece
Equally space five #6 1 ¼” sheet rock screws on
the inner frame.
Now screw them into the inner and outer
frames.
38
Step 14: Repeat Steps 12 – 13 for Each Side
Now repeat steps 12-13 for the other side of
the long inner frame and for the two short
inner frame pieces.
Note, since I had accomplished this piece with
the frame in a vertical position it was
necessary for me to use a “C” clamp when
assembling the short inner frame pieces.
Also, you will only need three sheet rock
screws for each side of the short inner frame
pieces.
Inner Frame Assembly Completed
39
Step 15: Cut Bottom Frame Cross
Assembly
Using the ¾” x 12” x 72” Melamine board
Take your circular saw and cut two 33 7/8”
pieces from the board.
With your frame upside down, place the
bottom boards you just cut into the frame.
40
Step 16: Mark, Drill and Screw the Cross
Frame
You will need your drill, phillips screw
driver, eight #10 x 2 ½” wood scres, #12
Countersink, 13/64” drill bit and your
sharpie for these next steps.
First mark where you will drill your holes
for the cross piece. You want two #10
wood screws in each of the four areas we
will assemble.
41
Step 16 (continued): Clamp
I use a 48” furniture clamp to keep the
sides together while I’m drilling these
holes. It helps keep the frame together
nice and tight. You can also use a buddy.
I set each cross piece in approximately 7
inches in from the end of each side of the
field.
42
Step 17: Drill and Countersink Each Hole
Using the 13/64” drill bit, drill out all eight
of the holes you marked, then countersink
each one.
I temporarily removed the clamps so you
could see what I’m doing in these photos.
You will want to leave your clamps on
while you do this.
43
Step 18: Screw In Each Hole
Taking your eight #10 x 2 ½” wood screws,
carefully screw them into each hole you
just countersunk.
I temporarily removed the clamps so you could
see what I’m doing in these photos. You will
want to leave your clamps on while you do
this.
44
Now Clean your work area
Get rid of all your saw dust
45
Step 19: Spackle….LOTS of spackle!
Get your spackle and spackle each screw
on the outer frame. There are 16
#10 x 2 ½” screws on the outer frame.
Spackle them all!
Then let it dry.
46
Step 19: Spackle Continued
Don’t forget to spackle the corners where
the wood comes together. It will help the
decal lay flat on the frame.
Then let it dry.
47
Step 20: Sand the spackle
Once the spackle is dry sand it with a 120
and then 220 grit sand paper until it is
smooth.
48
Step 21: Install the Motor Mount Brackets
Using two pieces of scrap inner frame board,
you should have two scrap pieces
approximately 24 inches long as pictured in the
top right photo on this page.
You are going to mount these to the cross
support using sheet rock screws as pictured
here.
1
Repeat this step for the other side. Refer to
the motor installation segment if you’re
confused about what we’re doing.
2
3
49
Step 22: Install the Feet
Using threaded felt feet pads, we are now
going to install the feet pads that will keep the
motor mount and adjustment knob to the
motor off of the table we set the gameboard
on.
First make two marks on the cross frame. You
want these marks to be centered and two feet
apart.
50
Step 23: Drill hole for the Feet Mount
Once your four marks are on the cross
brace drill them out. The package I’m
using specified an 11/32” drill bit.
1
3
2
51
Step 24: Install threaded insert
First put the threaded insert in the hole
you just drilled. Then use lock tite to lock
the foot in place once it is screwed into the
threaded insert.
1
3
2
52
Step 25: Install Feet
Carefully install the foot pad into the hole.
I use a piece of scrap wood to make sure
the depth is consistent in each hole.
Repeat for all four holes
53
Step 26: Frame Complete
Your frame should now sit level on your
work area when placed right side up.
Note: You haven’t installed the field
levelers or motors at this point so don’t
freak out from this picture. It’s just to
show you the frame sitting level on a level
surface.
54
Now Clean your work area
Get rid of all your saw dust
55
Building Segment 3:
The Motors
56
Step 1: Gather Your Materials
For this building segment you will need the
following materials:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
Drill
Drill bits
5/16”x1 ½”Fender washers (2 packs of 6)
Two low profile new work 1 gang electrical
boxes.
Two Buzzball motors
X-acto knife
Sharpee
Phillips screw driver (med and small)
Dykes
57
Step 2: Prepare the boxes
Using a Phillips screw driver, bend the flap
where your wire will exit each electrical box.
Refer to the wiring diagram and plan ahead on
how you want these wires to exit the box
58
Step 3: Drill holes in boxes
Using a 1/8” drill bit drill a small pilot hole at
the center of each box. (pic 1)
Once the pilot hole is drilled, take a ½” drill bit
and drill out a ½” hole in the pilot hole.
(pic 2 & 3)
2
1
3
59
Step 4: Clean up the hole on the box
Using an X-acto knife, remove the excess
plastic shavings from each hole on the inside
and outside of the boxes.
60
Step 5: Clip the Cord
Using a pair of dykes, clip the electrical cord off
of each Buzzball motor.
61
Step 6: Prepare the Motors
Prepare the motors by removing the
adjustment knob & retention spring
(pic 1 & 2).
Tighten the screw on the adjustment knob or it
will fly off when under pressure…you don’t
want this to happen; it sucks. (pic 3)
2
1
3
62
Step 7: Get your washers
Open your washers. You will use 6 washers on
each motor.
Five washers will go against the spring and one
washer will go against the adjustment knob.
63
Step 8: Mount the Washers to the Motor
Put the spring back on the motor, then take 5
washers and stack them and push them
against the spring. Hold the tension with your
fingers or else.
This part can hurt if you’re not quick enough so
if you have sensitive fingers use gloves or get
someone with tough strong hands.
Now hurry and go to the next step!
64
Step 9: Mount the Motor to the box
While keeping the washers compressed against
the spring, push the motor screw stem through
the hole in the box (pic 1)
Place a washer on the outside of the box
(pic 2)
Screw the adjustment knob to the screw stem.
(pic 3)
2
1
3
65
Step 10: Mark the box
With a sharpie, mark the box up and down.
Up will be when the motor moves toward the
sheet metal when the motor is mounted to the
gameboard and down will pull the motor away
from the sheet metal.
This will come in handy when you tune your
board in Building Segment 7.
66
Step 11: Inspect Your Work
Your motors should now look like these
examples.
67
Step 12: Prepare to Mount Your Motors
Mark the center of your gameboard. You will
slightly offset each motor once you mount it to
the board. (pic 1)
With the frame upside down on your table,
you want to mount each box by screwing in
the box to the frame making sure that the box
extends about a ¼” above the bottom cross
brace. (pic 2)
68
Step 12: Continued
More pics of the motors mounted to the
frame.
69
Building Segment 4:
Wiring
70
Step 1: WIRING WARNING!!!
WARNING: This segment is not to be taken
lightly or fool heartedly!
If you’re not an electrician or if you’re not that
good with figuring this segment out, hire an
electrician or a buddy who knows what to do
or else there is grave danger that you could
kill yourself, burn down your house, ruin your
game board or all three.
Don’t be stupid if you don’t know EXACTLY
how to do this step. There’s no shame in
getting expert help for this segment.
Be safe!!
I assume no liability for any do-it-yourself
electrical work in this segment. You’re on
your own!
This is just a guide!
71
Step 2: Wiring Materials
You will need the following items
(not all items are pictured):
Knowledge of basic wiring skills
Know how to read a schematic
One 15 foot extension cord
One 6 foot extension cord
One junction box
One switch
One bag of 3/8” Clamp Connectors
One bag of wire ties
Two hook hangers
72
Step 3: The Wiring Schematic
Here’s what we’re going to achieve
(if you do it correctly):
Motor #1
Motor #2
Switch
15 Foot Extension Cord
Junction Box
6 Foot Extension Cord
Wiring Key
Plug to Wall
Wire Connector
Positive Wire
Negative or Neutral Wire
73
Warrior TOC Motor and Wiring Layout
Top View
Motor #1
Center Line
Motor #2
Junction Box
REFERENCE SCHEMATIC FOR SPECIFIC WIRING REQUIREMENTS
Side View
74
Step 4: Install Junction Box
1. Get your junction box
2. Install two 3/8” Clamp Connectors
3. Mount to rear of table as shown using two
sheet rock screws
3
1
2
75
Step 5: Motor Wires
Run your motor wires to the junction box.
Note: I also mounted the wires to the frame
for a neater installation. This will also keep
your wires from getting damaged.
76
Step 6: The Switch
Using your 15’ extension cord and your switch,
mount one end of the extension cord to the
switch.
1
You may need to widen the hole in the switch
for the cord to fit.
Look at your schematic!!
2
4
3
77
Step 7: Run your Switch and Plug wires
Run your switch and plug wires to the junction
box.
78
Step 8: Connect your wires
Using wire ties correctly tie to the wires to one
another in accordance with the wiring
schematic!
PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU’RE
DOING!!
79
Step 8: Junction Box Completion
Close the junction box and tighten screws on
the 3/8” wire clamps that are mounted to the
junction box to keep the wires from getting
pulled out.
80
Step 9: Install Hooks for Wire Mount
Using the two hooks, install near the junction
box and wrap your cords up during long
storage periods.
81
Building Segment 5:
Frame Finishing
82
Step 1: Cut Top Frame Beam
Using three pieces of ¼” x ¾ “ x 8’ PVC Screen
Molding, cut each corner to fit at a 45 degree
angle. This will be placed on top of the frame.
Carefully measure the distance to each corner,
read ahead if you’re not sure what we’re
doing in this segment.
83
Step 1: (continued) Cut Top Frame Beam
Using three pieces of ¼” x ¾ “ x 8’ PVC Screen
Molding, cut each corner to fit at a 45 degree
angle. This will be placed on top of the frame.
Carefully measure the distance to each corner,
read ahead if you’re not sure what we’re
doing in this segment.
84
Step 2: Super Glue the top beam in on each
top side of the frame.
Using super glue, spread the glue on the top of
the frame (you will run this bead of glue along
all four sides, one side at a time) and carefully
put the top beam in place.
85
Step 3: Top Beam Complete
Your top beam should now look like this when
complete.
86
Step 3: Top Beam Complete (continued)
Your top beam should now look like this when
complete.
87
Step 4: Field Leveler installation
Using 1x4x6 piece of pine wood, cut into two
pieces measuring 33 7/8” long.
Place approximately 4 inches from the motors
88
Step 5: Field Leveler installation
Carefully drill a pilot hole into the pine and
then screw two sheet rock screws into each
end. Repeat for all four sides.
89
Step 6: Field Leveler installation
Make four equal marks on each pine field level
board that you just installed.
90
Step 7: Field Leveler installation
Using a 13/64” drill bit carefully drill out each
mark.
91
Step 7: Field Leveler installation (continued)
Using a a 1/4x20 tap carefully drill out each
mark and slowly tap it.
92
Step 8: Field Leveler installation
Carefully screw in all eight of the
¼ x 20 x 2 1/2 machine screws
93
Step 9: Field Leveler installation
All eight of the machine screws should now be
installed.
94
Now Clean your work area
Get rid of all your saw dust
95
Step 10: Field Leveler installation
Carefully put your frame on its side and using a
board make sure that all of the screws are
flush with the aligning board.
96
Step 10: Field Leveler installation (continued)
All eight screws should now be an equal
heighth and ready for the sheet metal to sit
level in the frame. This will also prevent
warping when you pass and lean on the table.
97
Step 11: Field Leveler installation
Your field should now look like this photo.
98
Building Segment 6:
Frame Stickers
99
Step 1: Field Sticker Installation
This step is purely optional and shown here for
cosmetic purposes. You don’t have to use the
stickers. You can leave it blank or paint it
however you see fit.
I used stickers from Lynn Schmidt. He can sell
these to you in a kit form if you ask for the
Jerry McGhee Warrior TOC Miniature Football
stickers and bricks.
You do not need to use soap and water for
this segment like we did in segment 1.
100
Step 2: Install the Bricks on the long side
We will now install the brick patter above the
inner frame. For the long sides of the game
board I do this one half at a time to make sure
it lines up correctly.
First test fit a strip to make sure it looks good.
1
Then remove one half of the backing; do not
cut the bricks and press in place!
3
2
101
Step 2: Install the Bricks on the long side
(Continuation) now do the other half and then
the other long side repeating steps 1 and 2
102
Step 3: Install the Bricks on the long side
Trim the corners with an X-acto knife.
1
3
2
103
Step 4: Install the Bricks on the Short sides
Now install the bricks on the short sides.
You can do this all at once without cutting half
of the brick adhesive.
Remove the adhesive protector and carefully
press in place top to bottom.
104
Step 5: Install the Outer Stickers
Now install the outer stickers. For the long
sides we will use the same technique as the
bricks installing one half at a time for the long
runs.
Repeat this step until all outer stickers are
applied. Take your time!!
105
Step 6: Trim the bottom of the outer stickers
With an X-acto knife, carefully trim the bottom
of the stickers away so there is nothing
hanging under the frame. Repeat on all 4
sides.
106
Step 7: Viola!
Your game board should now look like this!
107
Building Segment 7:
Tuning the Motors
108
Step 1: Lift your Game Board
If your game board is not running to the
desired speed you choose you will need to
tune the motors.
To tune your game board you will need to lift
one half of your board to get to the
adjustment knobs. I used a scrap piece of
wood to keep it up.
109
Step 2: Tune the Motors
Once lifted, turn the board on and carefully
adjust each motor until it runs the speed you
want. You want an equal amount of vibration
from each motor. You can do it by sound or
watching your men run on the board after
each tuning.
A good scale standard for tuning your board is
if a figure can run the entire 100 yards in 8 – 9
seconds!
110
Building Segment 8:
Field Accessories
111
Step 1: Down Markers
You can either buy or make your own down
markers. Carl Coley IV made these chains for
me.
112
Step 2: Field Dress Kit
You can either buy or make your own down
Field dress kit. I bought these from Chris
Stacey in 2007.
113
Step 3: Side Line Magnetic Felt
Go to Michaels or Hobby Lobby and get a thin
piece of magnet that is self adhesive or you
can glue it. Take a piece of felt and cut to fit
with your side lines. You can remove this to
clean it or change out your field.
114
Step 4: Field Goal Post
I made this from wood at Home Depot. Mark
the sidelines so when you stand it up you will
know where to align the goal post. Remove
when not kicking.
115
Step 4: Field Goal Post (Continued)
I made this field goal post in accordance with
the MFCA TOC rules. Your league may vary.
116
Step 5: Be Happy and Enjoy Your Game Board!
Just like Frank B here from Venice Beach, Florida!!
117