Puttering
Job jar
juan luna
Lost some
Spark?
Only a few inches
long and a few
dollars each, these
workhorses pulse
dozens of times
every second in
a small engine’s
combustion
chamber. >>
May 2010
cottagelife.com 77
Puttering
solutions
Cord
caution
A spark tester checks that electrical current is
reaching this snowblower’s plug; a feeler gauge
confirms the electrode gap is the right size.
Just because an extension cord can reach the
outlet doesn’t mean
it’s the right one for the
job. Everyone buys the
cheapest, longest cord
they can find, but that
old 100' 16-gauge cord
can damage your expensive power tools, which
are designed to work
at 120 volts.
>> job jar
Though humble enough, the simple spark
plug can offer unrivalled insight into the inner
workings of your small engine, and routine
maintenance helps your engine run longer
and burn cleaner. Here’s what to do:
Juan Luna
Remove
Slip the wire off the spark plug’s terminal
end, clean off any loose dirt, and back the
plug out using a special socket for this purpose. Don’t touch the plug while the engine
parts are turning (even if the engine isn’t
running), or you could get a nasty shock.
Also, always disconnect the spark plug wire
before starting any kind of engine work to
prevent an accidental start.
Inspect
Take a close look at the electrode—the end
of the plug that resides inside the engine.
Brown and greyish-tan deposits are normal.
Black goop means oil is getting past the
cylinder and into the combustion chamber.
Your engine may need new piston rings,
a valve job, or both. A blistered, white electrode suggests your engine is running hot.
This could be caused by insufficient cooling
(look for dirt caked on the engine-block
fins and check the oil level) or an air-fuel mix
that is too lean (too much air, not enough
fuel), suggesting a carburetor problem. Dry,
sooty deposits mean the mixture is too rich
(too much gas, not enough air). Clean your
air filter and make sure the holes in the gas
cap aren’t clogged. If the electrode is hammered down, the wrong plug—one with an
overlong reach—has been installed and the
electrode is being smashed flat by the piston.
Here’s the problem:
The longer the cord, the
more resistance in the
wire, and the more the
voltage drops. Under
heavy load, when you
plug in, say, an air compressor or a circular
saw, the voltage drops
even more. Voltage
drop will cause the
tool’s motor to overheat and, eventually, to
burn out. That’s why
cord size is important.
Buy thicker extension
cords and use the
shortest one that will
reach. The lower the
gauge, the thicker the
wire and the less its
resistance. Cords are
commonly sold in 16-,
14-, and 12-gauge sizes.
To protect your tools,
12-gauge is best.
Test
If your engine won’t start, use a spark tester
to check the ignition system. There are two
common styles of tester: one that clips to
the spark plug wire and the engine block
and another that cradles the wire in a metal
sleeve. With the tester in place, pull the
starter cord. If no sparks appear, your ignition system is faulty. If you see sparks, the
plug could be the problem. Try a new one.
Set the gap
The plug’s electrode gap must be set to an
exact distance for the engine to fire properly.
The owner’s manual will specify the correct
gap for your engine. To measure, use a small
feeler gauge (available at automotive stores),
which has wires or blades of varying thickness. Select the one you want and place it
inside the gap; it should slide in and out
with only a bit of resistance. Most gauges
come with a wrench-like attachment that
you can use to adjust the gap by gently
bending the electrode arm.
To protect yourself,
don’t bury extension
cords or use them
as permanent wiring:
They’re for temporary
connections only. You
can replace the plug or
receptacle end safely,
but if the cord itself is
damaged, buy a new
one. Never cut off the
ground pin, and use a
GFCI-protected receptacle outdoors.
Replace?
Plugs are so cheap, many cottagers buy
new ones as part of a regular tune-up. Just
remember to check and, if necessary, reset
the gap before installing. There are scores
of different plugs; get the one called for in
the owner’s manual. Carefully hand-thread
the plug a few turns before reaching for the
socket wrench: Cross-threading will mean
that, in a best-case scenario, you’ll need
new threads tapped into the hole you just
wrecked. Worst case? A new engine head.
—Rick Brignall
—Andrew Lupton
May 2010
cottagelife.com 79
Puttering
Think this stand is beyond
your skill set? Dressed
lumber and brass screws
will change your mind.
saturday project
Reel clever
You can make this Mission-style fishing storage centre with hand tools and store-bought
lumber. Even better, you can do it in a weekend. Our stand uses off-the-rack 4' lengths
of standard-width oak lumber—saving a lot
of cutting—and though it’s not obvious, the
rack is screwed together. This eases assembly and adds a decorative touch. Screws—
decorative? You bet!
Most stores carry dressed lumber in common sizes, sold as 1x1, 1x2, and so on, so I
designed for these dimensions. Dressed
lumber, though, is somewhat smaller than
marked and may even vary from what’s in
the cutting list. For example, my 1x3s actually measured #/4" by 2#/4". Don’t worry;
those variations won’t affect the project.
1. Build the 4'-tall sides, each made of two
1x3 outer stiles and one 1x1 centre stile, separated by spacers. For visual interest, plane
the spacer stock to %/8" by #/4" before cutting
eight spacers per side. Assemble the two
sides with glue, ensuring that they’re mirror
images of each other, with longer spacers
at the bottom of each side. The spacers
should be flush to the inner side of the stiles.
2. Edge-glue boards together to make the
top, the base, and the rod-holder shelf. The
top and base are each two pieces of 1x5, while
the rod holder is a 1x4 plus a 1x5.
edward pond
3. Let the glue dry, then sand the laminated
panels to 180 grit. For the rod-holder shelf,
mark a line 2!/2" back from the front edge
and, starting from the middle, mark five holes,
spacing the centres 3!/4" apart. With a 1!/4"
Forstner or spade bit, drill to a depth of #/8"
to form pockets for the butts of the rods.
4. Mark five through-holes on the top to
align with the butt pockets below: 3!/2" back
from the front edge and 3!/4" apart. Drill &/8"
holes (prevent the bottoms from blowing
May 2010
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Puttering
Planing the spacers is
a little extra work for
a lot of visual impact.
Top
Corbel
Top rail
Back shelf
Upper spacer
Centre stile
Outer stile
Rod-holder shelf
cutting list
Middle rail
Lower spacer
Base
Base rail
Foot
FISHING ROD HOLDER
>> saturday project
out by drilling through the top and into
scrap). Finally, mark the #/8" wide slots and
cut them with a handsaw.
5. Round over the front and sides of the top,
and the fronts of the rod-holder shelf and
base, with a router and a #/8" roundover bit.
6. Clamp the sides together with the top and
middle rails, the rod-holder shelf, and the
back shelf between them, applying glue to
mating surfaces. Pre-drill for #10 x 1#/4"
brass screws. Drive the screws, leaving them
proud of the surface by !/4". Then cut the
heads off carefully with a hacksaw blade,
and file or sand flush. This pro technique
has the look of brass pegs (see photo above)
with the holding power of threaded screws.
The top is attached with glue and four screws
driven down through the top, while the base
is attached with three screws per side.
7. Glue the 1x2 base rails to the underside
of the base, set back from the edge. To make
the 1x3 feet more decorative, cut the tops off
the ends at 45°. Mark 1"-deep scallops by
tracing around a centred dinner plate and cut
with a jig saw or coping saw. Attach feet
with two more brass screws. Cut the curved
corbels from scrap 1x4; glue in place.
8. Sand with 180-grit sandpaper, easing any
sharp corners, then apply the finish of your
choice. I used three coats of Minwax wipe‑on
polyurethane, followed by a coat of paste
wax. Finally, cut felt circles for the rod pockets and glue in place.—Ryan Shervill
zO
uter stiles (4)
#/4" x 2#/4" x 48"
zC
entre stiles (2)
#/4" x 1" x 48"
zU
pper spacers (12)
#/4" x %/8" x 2"
zL
ower spacers (4)
#/4" x %/8" x 11"
zT
op
#/4" x 9" x 26"
(2 1x5s)
zR
od-holder shelf
#/4" x 8" x 19!/2"
(1x4 and 1x5)
zB
ase
#/4" x 9" x 21"
(2 1x5s)
zT
op and middle
rails (2)
#/4" x 1!/2" x 19!/2"
zB
ack shelf
#/4" x 4!/2" x 19!/2"
zB
ase rails (2)
#/4" x 1!/2" x 21"
zF
eet (2)
#/4" x 2#/4" x 13"
zC
orbels (4)
#/4" x 2" x 3!/2"
z Felt for rod pockets
stuff we like
illustration: jacques perrault;
photo: edward pond
Off the grid, freezers rule & fridges drool
Our cottage needs a second, energy-efficient fridge. But even new
fridges have a big, wasteful flaw. Open the door and the dense cold
air spills out, prompting the compressor to kick in to cool the inside
air again. If only fridges were built like chest freezers: They’re better
insulated and the air stays put, so the compressor does less work and
uses a lot less power. Problem is, fridge temperature is 2°C to 3°C—
too warm for the freezer’s stock thermostat. The Freezer Tamer overrides that thermostat and operates a freezer at fridge temperatures.
Plug the freezer into the unit and place the temperature probe in the
food compartment. Now you have a super-efficient fridge, especially
awesome for off-grid cottages that need to sip electricity. It uses as
little as 0.3 kWh per day—literally pennies’ worth—far less than that
10-year-old relic fridge, which could use as much as 3 kWh per day,
and still better than a typical new fridge’s 1.4-kWh appetite. Order
the Freezer Tamer online from kegman.net for $66 US, not including
shipping and border-crossing charges.—Paul Lewis
May 2010
cottagelife.com 83
Puttering
Great Invention 1
A new slat on life
It was the classic ’70s lawn chair: aluminum frame, plastic armrests,
snazzy two-tone green nylon webbing. But by the late ’80s, it was
tired. The webbing was frayed. It was time for a makeover.
First, Bill Wright decided against restoring the original look. “I tried
rewebbing a chair once. It was an absolute pain in the butt. You
can never get the webbing tight like they do in the factory.” So he
opted for 1x3 pine slats, cut to fit the chair’s seat and back, and
stained. He secured them to the frame with 1" galvanized plumber’s
strapping and some #8 wood screws. Then, to reduce the strain
on the soft aluminum tubing, he ran the strapping around the chair
frame and back behind the first slat, driving the screws into the
slat through the doubled-over strapping. As a bonus, the strapping
flexes, making the chair more comfy, and it does a better job of
distributing weight across the chair frame than if he’d simply bolted
or screwed slats to the tubing.
Get comfortable in Bill
Wright’s solid seat with
bum-friendly flexibility.
As a finishing touch, he kept the strapping from sliding up and down
the frame by pinning it to the tubing with a sheet metal screw. (One
warning: Look for cracks and fatigue in the aluminum before you
begin your salvage project. Wright once repaired a chair only to have
the frame buckle.)
In the end, Wright did such a good job, he made a second chair,
and both live on as fixtures at his Huntsville place. Now in their third
decade, the chairs are still going strong. “Waste not, want not,”
says Wright.—Ray Ford
GOT A COTTAGE INVENTION THAT YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE?
Send ideas to Great Inventions, c/o Cottage Life, 54 St. Patrick St., Toronto ON M5T 1V1, or e-mail [email protected].
Published inventors will win our DIY crown, a Cottage Life baseball cap. For more great inventions, visit cottagelife.com/inventions
Great Invention 2
Up and away
Tired of a 1.2-metre chunk of curtain rod cluttering the shed at his Crowe River cottage near Marmora, Ont., Richard Esdale thought he’d “bang
it up on the rafters and get it out of the way.
top, bill wright; bottom, Richard Esdale
“I thought I could hang something on it,” he
says, “I just wasn’t sure what.” Nonetheless, he
fastened the “I-beam”-style rod to the trusses
with three L-shaped aluminum brackets.
After he had cleaned a paintbrush, Esdale recognized the rod’s tool-rack potential. Fashioning a hook from an old coat hanger, he hung
the brush from the curtain-rod rollers to dry,
and a new tool storage system was born. More
brushes followed, then box-end and adjustable
wrenches, saws, almost anything that would
hang on a hook. “I didn’t realize how useful it
was going to be,” says Esdale, who’s now looking for more rollers to go on the rod. “It saves
space, and it’s easy to find the right tool.” —R.F.
May 2010
cottagelife.com 85
Puttering
Saturday Project
juan luna
Coffee-can Charcoal starter
Last year, I won the title of Best Girlfriend Ever when
I bought my boyfriend, Rich, a charcoal grill for his
birthday. It was a smash hit, and a present to myself >>
June 2010
cottagelife.com 105
Puttering
Go Green
Clean up your ’cue
Chimney Starter
Need hot charcoal fast?
Adapt an empty coffee
can and the clamp-on
handle from your old
camping cookset.
>> Saturday Project
as well: He cooked dinner at least twice
a week that summer. I also bought a $20
chimney starter to heat the charcoal quickly.
Rich, however, is a trained engineer with a
strong DIY impulse, so always wants to know
1) how things work, and 2) how things can
work better. Why pay for a starter, he asked
me, when you can easily make one? So began
the life of our coffee-can barbecue chimney.
Keep the sizzle going this summer—without making the planet
hotter—by choosing more eco-friendly barbecue options.
Fuel for thought
Not all grills are created equal. Gas, propane, and electric barbecues
burn cleaner than wood or charcoal counterparts, which release more
carbon monoxide and smog-causing soot particles. But keep in mind
that souped-up gas grills with heat plates, storage racks, and multiple burners are fuel hogs­—their carbon footprint is greater than that
of a charcoal version. And, of course, gas is a non-renewable fossil
fuel, so opt for a product that features only what you really need.
Charcoal aficionados should look for homegrown charcoal that’s been
certified by the Forest Stewardship Council or the Rainforest Alliance.
(Charcoal produced abroad may include wood from sensitive tropical
forests, plus shipping results in unnecessary carbon emissions.) Lump
charcoal is always better than briquettes, which include harmful
binders and additives that make them easier to light.
Newer hybrid grills use gas or electricity as the main source of heat,
but let you add a bit of wood or charcoal at the end to flavour your ribs.
Light my fire
Petro-based lighter fluids release toxic by-products into the air—
and your meat. Instead, use a chimney starter. Buy one where you
find grilling supplies, or make your own from an old coffee tin. Good
thing we just gave you the how-to.—Susan Nerberg
For more on earth-friendly grilling, go to cottagelife.com/gogreen
1. Empty a coffee can—a jumbo one with
a narrow ledge inside, under the plastic lid.
2. Use a can opener to remove the bottom
of the can. With tin snips and pliers, cut and
fold a pinwheel pattern in the bottom disc
(see above). Drill about a dozen ventilation
holes, evenly spaced, in the side of the can,
using at least a !/2" bit.
top: jacques perrault; right: pete ryan
3. Place the can lip-down on the grill’s lower
grate. Ball up some newspaper, put it in the
can, cover the paper with the pinwheel, and
then fill to overflowing with charcoal.
4. Light the paper. As it burns, the pinwheel
will sink until it rests on the lip. About 10
minutes later, the charcoal will be ready and
the can will be smokin’ hot—wear oven
mitts to dump the coals. The clamp-on handle from a camping cookset makes an ideal
grip, but you could also improvise with a coat
hanger, Vise-Grips, or even barbecue tongs.
illustration
28p0.75 x 25p2.88
Yes, a store-bought starter holds more charcoal and is more durable. But if you too have
the DIY bug and don’t want to spend any
money, the coffee-can chimney starter has
your dinner covered.—Michelle Kelly
June 2010
cottagelife.com 107
Puttering
Solutions
Until bears learn to limbo
It doesn’t take a biology degree to understand some bruin behaviour: If a bear gets a meal at your cottage (or just
smells one), guess where he’ll head next time his tummy rumbles. But if his cottage visit starts—and ends—with
a harmless but hurtful shock to the nose, you’re less likely to see him a second time. Bears learn quickly from their
experiences, good and bad, a principle prompting some cottage owners to consider electric fences.
pete ryan
Electric boundaries
Jeff Marley owns Margo Supplies, a High
River, Alta., electric-fence supplier. Bush
camp and dump operators are his main clients, but in recent years cottagers—even
in grizzly country—have sought his help.
For about $600, you can buy a DIY cottagesized fence system. The main component is
a CSA-approved energizer, which costs less
than $200 and plugs into a standard 120-volt
outlet. For those without reliable grid power
or who turn off the power when they leave,
solar or battery systems are about twice the
price. The kit comes with nail-in insulators
to string wire garden-fence-style between
trees, buildings, and existing fence posts. You
can also install wires on the cottage walls, a
configuration Marley calls the “cabin wrap.”
This option avoids having a barrier across the
lake side of the property, one drawback of
the garden-fence approach. The systems are
quickly and easily taken down when the cottage is in use and set up again when it’s not.
“Even when the fence is up, it really isn’t
noticeable,” says Marley.
The fence voltage is high (about 7,000 volts), but the amperage is too
low to cause more than an alarming shock to any animal that touches
it (including kids responding to double-dares). Also, unlike household
power, which can paralyze muscles in contact with live wires, fence
power comes in quick pulses, so one zap and the bear is gone.
A simple, one-wire fence system may be all you need, but if the bear’s
paws are planted on a poor conductor such as dry gravel or the solid
rock of the Canadian Shield, it won’t feel the full force of the charge.
In these conditions, Marley recommends a four- or six-wire system
with alternating positive and negative wires about 25 cm apart. This
way, the bear gets buzzed any time his body spans a positive and a
negative wire. Marley notes the fence wires should be “guitar-string
tight,” so they can separate the hairs of a bear’s thick coat and contact the skin beneath.
No solution for the slovenly
Just because you have an electric fence, don’t expect to abandon
common-sense bear-proofing. A bag of dog food on the deck or
a greasy barbecue grill may smell so attractive to a hungry bear, it’s
willing to muscle through a juiced fence, regardless of the unpleasant consequences. “This is not a replacement for doing all the right
things,” says Linda Wall, a coordinator for Ontario’s Bear Wise program. “It’s like a first line of defence or cheap insurance against
a bear intrusion—cheaper than the damage a bear can do if it
gets inside.”—Andrew Lupton
June 2010
cottagelife.com 109
Puttering
Job Jar
Baffle fab
If the U-shaped baffles
in your concrete septic
tank are crumbling,
replace them with PVC
T-fittings, available
at hardware stores or
building centres.
Similar fittings, often
with an effluent filter
on the outlet, are
standard equipment in
many newer tanks.
The next time you pump out your concrete
septic tank, inspect its outlet baffle, the
divider that prevents the floating scum layer
from entering your septic field or pump
chamber—where it will cause expensive and
irrevocable damage. What you may see
is that the lower half of the baffle is intact,
while what’s above the “high water mark,”
constantly exposed to corrosive gases in the
tank, has begun to crumble and deteriorate.
The fix may be a dirty job, but it’s also cheap
and easy. Determine the size and type of
pipe at the outlet (it’s usually 4" PVC) and
buy a T-fitting and a short length of pipe
to match. Break up and remove the damaged
baffle, taking care to protect your eyes from
splashes. Wear safety glasses. And enlist a
helper: It’s a bad DIY day when—overcome
by the gases within the tank—you fall
inside to drown in your own sewage.
Slip the middle leg of the T onto the outlet
pipe so one end is below the outlet level and
one well above it. You’ll need to extend the
downward leg by about a foot; depending on
your tank’s dimensions, you may add a short
section of pipe on top too. If the connection
is snug and solid, you’re done. Or make it
permanent with some PVC pipe adhesive. Liquid can now freely exit through the lower
leg of the T, while the upper part keeps that
nasty scum inside where it belongs. Now, go
have a nice hot shower.—David Zimmer
Stuff We Like
illustration: jacques perrault; photo: juan luna
Electrostatic paint cling
Here’s a rhetorical question: Would you choose a brush or an aerosol can to paint
that steel patio set (or any other weathered bit of iron or steel on your to-do list),
or would you rather try a tool that promises to coat both sides at once while minimizing
overspray? Same here.
The Corrostop Metalmaster, an electrostatic paint gun, puts industrial technology in the
DIYer’s hands. When it’s clipped to a piece of metal, the battery-powered device applies
a static-electric charge to paint, which is then attracted to the metal, coating both sides
simultaneously. The gun retails for $65 and the $25 canisters of paint—available in white,
black, brown, grey, and silver—cover seven to 12 square metres, depending on the project.
When the instructions include how to “avoid electrostatic shock,” that’s a signal to
thoroughly read the safety guidelines. Though I didn’t have any hair-raising experiences
using the gun, I found one annoyance: The alligator clip is too small to grab some
metal objects, including a railing that I wanted to repaint.—Allan Britnell
June 2010
cottagelife.com 111
Puttering
great Invention 2
The L-board
Kayaking is fun, but as Gary Hutton notes,
it’s a little nerve-racking to clamber in and
out of the sensitive craft. “I kept thinking if
I had good footing and something to grab,
it wouldn’t be so tricky,” the Lake Huron
cottager says.
To ease boarding, Hutton lag-bolted two
eight-foot 2x4s to his Eagle Harbour dock to
form an L-shaped grab rail. When it’s time
to hit the waves, Hutton grasps the 2x4 perpendicular to the kayak with his right hand
and the parallel 2x4 with his left hand, slides
his bum over the kayak, and settles into
place. Upon his return to the shore, the rails
provide leverage for climbing back out. Hutton says he considered adding a 2x6 atop
the perpendicular 2x4 for a more comfy seat,
“but you’re on it for only a few seconds, so
you don’t really need a comfort factor.” Best
of all, “because it’s so simple, the basic idea
can be applied to many different styles of
docks,” even floating ones.—R.F.
great Invention 1
Roll, roll, roll your boat
top, joe donaldson; bottom, gary hutton
When it’s time to haul in his boat, Rideau Lakes cottager Joe Donaldson gets moving with
help from an old wringer washing machine. “I don’t like leaving the sailboat in the water
overnight or when I’m not around,” he says, “so I had to find a system whereby I could get it
out of the water by myself.”
With the 14!/2-foot Sunfish too heavy to lift out and drag up the steep slope at his Otter Lake
cottage, Donaldson decided to winch the craft ashore on rollers. But where was he going to get
rollers? Recalling the wringer washers his family used up until the early 1970s, Donaldson
reckoned that if he could find a similar machine, the rollers could be put to new use—long
after squeezing the water out of their last load of laundry. “There’s an antique dealer near
our cottage, and he had some old washers out back. I went there and bought four rollers.”
Gathering a handsaw, chisel, drill with a spade bit, and a collection of old 4x4 and 2x4 scrap
lumber, Donaldson cut and lag-bolted the blocks together to make brackets for the rollers.
He fastened the blocks to the edge of the dock and a retaining wall, dropped the rollers into
slots he’d chiselled and drilled into the blocks, and secured them with stainless steel brackets.
“I just lift the boat up onto the lower pair of washing-machine rollers, winch it out onto the
second set, and then keep winching it up onto the grass,” he says. When it’s time to launch,
Donaldson reverses the process, rolling the vessel back into the water. As he adds, it’s quick,
easy, and more fun than doing laundry.—Ray Ford
GOT A COTTAGE INVENTION
THAT YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE?
Send ideas to Great Inventions, c/o Cottage
Life, 54 St. Patrick St., Toronto ON M5T 1V1,
or e-mail [email protected].
Published inventors will win our DIY crown,
a Cottage Life baseball cap. For more reader
inventions, visit cottagelife.com/inventions
June 2010
cottagelife.com 113
Puttering
Solutions
juan luna
Good, clean fun
Removing a summer’s worth of crud
from the deck or prepping the side
of the cottage for painting is a lot
faster, easier, and—admit it—more
exciting with a pressure washer. >>
October 2010
cottagelife.com 85
Puttering
Face off
Testing water savers
>> solutions
But you need the right one, with enough
power to drive away dirt but not so much
that you drill holes in your wood. Here’s
how to choose:
photo: juan luna. illustration: pete ryan. Power washer courtesy Homelite
First, pick your PSI
Pounds per square inch (PSI) is the blasting
strength of the water. In general, a PSI of
1,000 to 1,700—considered light duty—
works for cleaning patio furniture, steps,
small decks, cars, and boats (you’ll spend
between $150 and $240). A PSI of 1,800 to
2,500 has the power to efficiently handle
large decks, stone patios, and fencing (about
$250 to $550). To clean siding, you’ll need
a PSI between 2,700 and 3,200 (up to $800).
Pressure washers also have a gallons-perminute (GPM) rating—the volume of water
flow—which affects how fast you can clean,
and a rating for cleaning units (CU)—the
combined cleaning speed and power. (The
CU is the unit’s PSI multiplied by its GPM.)
A higher CU means you can clean more
stuff, more quickly.
Next, go gas or electric? Hot or cold?
Electric-motor units are not as powerful as
gas-engine units, and they’re not as portable on account of the cord, but they are lighter
and more compact. Gas units give off fumes
—not good if you plan to pressure wash in
an enclosed area, such as a boathouse. Hotwater washers clean more effectively, but
the burner or coil system tacks on even more
weight. Using job-specific pressure-washer
detergent may also help tackle especially
tough or greasy tasks. However, if you plan
to use a pressure washer only for small jobs
or, say, for a couple of hours a week, an electric cold-water unit should be enough.
It seemed like a good idea at the time: Rather than tossing the old
toilet, why not install new innards to make it an efficient, dual-flush
unit? Two conversion kits—the HydroRight Dual-Flush (about $35
from retailers including Canadian Tire) and the Brondell Simple Flush
(available for $89 from easywashroom.com)—made the switch seem
easy and relatively cheap, so I took the plunge and tested both.
The HydroRight is the simplest conversion, although it works best
with newfangled fill valves, not the old ballcock valve still common
on aging cottage toilets. The unit slips on over the overflow tube,
replacing the flapper. Push a button and you get a half-tank flush for
liquids. Push the other button and you get a full-tank flush. If you
need more power, adjust the flush volume with a slide on the unit. It
worked as promised, and with minimal Test-Family disruption.
The Simple Flush is a more sophisticated system, using a batterypowered solenoid switch and water pressure to open the flapper valve
for up to 20 different flush settings. It struggled, though, during
my test: With my pressure tank in a pumphouse more than 35 metres
away from the house and at least eight metres downhill, the water
system wasn’t generating the pressure needed to get a reliable flush.
After three weeks of tinkering, Test-Family attitudes shifted from
indulgent to irritated to hostile. The Test Spouse announced she could
no longer use the Simple Flush. Test Son demanded a fix before
new Test Girlfriend visited. Family-acceptance issues shouldn’t scare plumbing-savvy or waterconscious cottagers away from the dual-flush conversion, but given
the range of toilet workings and plumbing systems, be aware that
a single solution won’t fit all toilets. In this case, the HydroRight
proved to be the best value, while the Simple Flush should be limited to cottages on municipal water or with enough pressure to
guarantee a good flush.—Ray Ford
Now add nozzles
You can easily ramp up (or dial down) the
cleaning power by changing the nozzle.
Some pressure washers are sold with different spray tips included, or you can buy the
tips separately. The larger the spray angle,
the wider and less powerful the spray; a
zero-degree nozzle gives a narrow, solid
stream of water. That’s enough to peel paint
or scar soft wood if you get too close. So
don’t point a pressure washer at your new
cedar bench. Or your foot.—Jackie Davis
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Puttering
DIY Weekend Carpenter
Cross a new threshold
Replacing a worn or rotten door threshold, or sill, is an afternoon’s
project that most handypersons can do. While not difficult, the job can
be complicated by the materials adjacent to the sill and their location.
Thresholds usually sit under the jambs (as shown) or between them.
However it’s set up, the old sill has to slide out toward the exterior of
the house, and the new one has to slide in unimpeded—exterior trim,
concrete steps poured too high, or a wooden deck nearly flush with
the interior floor mean you’ll need to solve the problem of access first.
1. Start by cutting any fasteners. The threshold is secured to the
jambs on either side, and probably to the structure beneath, with nails
or screws. To cut fasteners beneath, wedge the threshold up a bit with
an old chisel or a pry bar to make space for a reciprocating saw with
a metal-cutting blade, or a hacksaw (see Trade Secrets, below).
2. Cut the threshold into three pieces using a reciprocating saw, handsaw, or circular saw. You don’t want to damage the finished floor, so,
if required, make diagonal cuts that don’t go all the way through to the
floor. Using a chisel, split away the section between the cuts, working
back toward the interior side, and release the middle piece.
3. Pull out the remaining sections of the old threshold, using a pry
bar if necessary. Cut or pull out any remaining fasteners.
photo: juan luna. illustration: jacques perrault
4. Measure and cut the new threshold (found at most lumberyards) to
fit the width of the jamb opening. Match the original set-up as closely
as you can and test the fit with the door open and closed, and with the
threshold bearing weight. Before installing, coat all six sides with
exterior-grade finish.
5. Use an exterior-grade construction adhesive or glue to bond the sill
to the jambs. Slide the new threshold in place and use shims (see
Trade Secrets) underneath to apply upward pressure in order to keep
the sill tight to the jambs above. If there’s a gap under the centre of
the sill, install shims to support it when it bears traffic. To secure the
sill, use construction adhesive or drive finishing nails down through it.
6. Insulate with polyurethane foam if there’s room, and caulk to seal
gaps before replacing trim. Lastly, tuck a few shims under the closed
door so the expanding foam won’t wreck your alignment.—Michel Roy
trade secrets
Under-the-board work
Shims Use plastic or composite shims under your threshold. They won’t rot, and they won’t
be crushed under a heavy load. Use a dollop of adhesive to hold them in place when you slide
them in. You can get these shims at many lumberyards and hardware stores.
NAKED BLADE No reciprocating saw in your tool kit? Make do with a simple made-on-thespot version. Wrap some tape around the end of a hacksaw blade for a handle, and fire up
your forearm. Hacksaw blades are thin and flexible. They will bend less if you orient the
teeth to cut on the pull stroke, pointing toward the “handle” end.—M.R.
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Puttering
Stuff We Like
En garde, cottage swashbuckler!
The Woodman’s Pal looks like something a samurai would carry, with a long blade down one side and a sharpened
hook flaring off the other, but it’s actually an ideal multi-tool for any cottage. I reclaimed an old trail with it, pruning
1" branches with one swing and quickly cleaning up grasses and smaller branches using the hook like a mini-scythe.
I also dragged the hook through the ground to rip up stubborn weed roots without dinging the cold-rolled steel.
Most impressively, I split a leg-thick maple round with two chops of the main blade, the soft leather handle absorbing the blows. Swinging it feels smooth and exact: The even weight balance provides more control than a hatchet or
machete. Two cautions: The cuts aren’t clean enough for pruning sensitive trees; and you may catch yourself screaming
“Hai-yah!” The tool is easy to find and order online for around $90 at garden and tool retail websites.—Ryan Stuart
Installing an insert will
make your fireplace
efficient, plus help keep
soot and smoke out
of your cottage. Green
and simple!
photo: juan luna. illustration: jacques perrault. Woodman's Pal courtesy Lee Valley
Go Green
It’s not the heat, it’s the efficiency
Before the cold weather hits, consider making your wood-burning fireplace more effective with an insert, which fits inside an open
fireplace and keeps more heat inside the
cottage. If you’re a confident DIYer, there’s
no need to have a pro install it—just grab
your tool box and a helper. (Remember to
have a WETT-certified inspector check your
work afterwards.)
1. Choose your insert based on the type of
fireplace you have, and its dimensions,
keeping in mind that inserts can’t be used
with all fireplaces. Measure the depth,
width, and height of the existing firebox
at the front and back. Consider that the
insert’s metal caisson will expand when
heated; the manufacturer should list the
required clearance. When you go to pick
up a stainless steel flue liner and the insert
itself, make sure you check that the liner
is longer than the height of the chimney, and that the insert will still
fit in the firebox even after heat expansion.
2. Remove the damper and sweep the chimney. Verify that the firebricks are intact, and clean the hearth with a steel brush. Slide the
insert into the firebox and level it so it’s nearly flush with the hearth.
3. Go up to the roof, and attach the flue collar connector to one end
of the liner and feed it down the chimney to the insert. Have a buddy
below pull out the insert slightly to attach the flue collar connector
to the flue collar on the insert. Cut the excess liner, leaving only eight
centimetres above the chimney crown. Secure the liner with a top
plate that attaches to the chimney, and fit with a rain cap.
4. Return inside and pull the insert out a bit from the firebox (the
flue liner will allow for some flex). Screw in place the top and side
surround panels that come with the insert. Slide the insert back into
the firebox so the surround panels are flush with the fireplace front.
Now you’re ready to call in the inspector.—Susan Nerberg
For info on proper fireplace set-up, go to p.41, and for more on
efficient heating, go to cottagelife.com/gogreen
October 2010
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Puttering
Great Invention 1
So you can cedar way
When you veer off a dark cottage path, it’s easy for things to go bump
in the night—things including your forehead on the birch near the
privy. But there’s no need to take your lumps at Doug Thompson’s
Lake Temagami family cottage, thanks to the cedar path lights he
installed with his father, Graeme.
Left, courtesy Doug Thompson; right, courtesy Sharon Tyhurst
The tradition began in the 1980s, when Graeme mulled over a use
for a hollowed-out cedar that blew over in a storm. To make the basic
lamp, Thompson grabs his chainsaw and starts with a straight cut
through the log to form the base of the light, then a 30-degree angled
cut for the sloping top. For the “mouth” of the fixture, he makes two
straight cuts into the face of the block, and then knocks the centre
piece out with a chisel and hammer.
Thompson tops the lamp by tracing an outline of the angled end onto
a piece of !/2" plywood, and then cuts the plywood with a jig saw.
He protects the plywood with wood preservative, screws it into the
cedar block, and glues or staples cedar bark on top for a natural surface. Final touches include screwing an outdoor junction box and light
fixture with a compact fluorescent bulb into the underside of the lid,
which is easily unscrewed, and covering the opening with chicken
wire or hardware cloth to protect against debris and critters. (The
CFL bulbs are cool, so they avoid the heat buildup of incandescents.
During the winter, the Thompsons leave the lamps in place and cover
them with garbage bags.)
When night falls, Thompson can flick a switch in the cottage and illuminate the paths for travel. Solar lights won’t work on the Thompsons’ well-treed island, and the cedar units avoid the glare of floodlights and the stray light that obscures stars and annoys neighbours.
“You hardly know they’re there during the day,” Thompson says. “But
at night, they throw a lot of light on the path.”—Ray Ford
Great Invention 2
No-mow bike
“Isn’t my husband the greatest?” Sharon
Tyhurst wrote to Cottage Life, enclosing a
photo of husband Rick’s invention. “I now
have my own riding mower at our Lake
Superior camp. Thanks, Dear.”
Before other cottagers consider similar gifts,
there are two points to stress. First, Sharon’s
letter may contain at least a hint of sarcasm.
Second, Rick says it’s solely a conversation
piece. Spotting a kid’s bike and a seized-up
mower at the dump near their Goulais River,
Ont., camp, Rick saw the potential for an
offbeat sculpture. He hustled the treasures
back to the lake, removed the bike’s front
wheel, and welded the forks to the reel.
Rick speculates a real version could be made
if the bike’s gear ratio could be reduced to
go slow enough for good mowing. Brakes
and reverse would help too. But for now, it’s
something visitors to the camp “can have
a beer and talk about,” he says. “When people ask, I just say it’s a mower for Sharon.”
PHOTOS BY GUTTER CREDIT
And Sharon’s in no rush for a working model,
partly because the Tyhursts have replaced
their lawn with low-maintenance wildflowers. “That’s how we like it,” she says. “Very
little yardwork that way.”—R.F.
GOT A COTTAGE INVENTION
THAT YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE?
Send ideas to Great Inventions, c/o Cottage
Life, 54 St. Patrick St., Toronto ON M5T 1V1,
or e-mail [email protected].
Published inventors will win our DIY crown,
a Cottage Life baseball cap. For more reader
inventions, visit cottagelife.com/inventions
October 2010
cottagelife.com 93