Hayling Island
I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the seagulls crying.
I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,
To the gull’s way and the whale’s way where the wind’s like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yard from a laughing fellow rover,
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.
John Masefield
Hayling Island offers a largely sheltered sea paddle in an area seething with pleasure craft in the summer but quieter in the winter when the
island is occupied only by its 15,000 residents.
The channel separating the island from the mainland dries out for the bottom metre at spring tides and there are strong tidal flows at the
southeast and southwest corners of the island. Thus, there is much to be said for running north up one side of the island on the last hour of the
flood and returning down the other side on the first hour of the ebb.
A possible starting point is on the south coast near Eastoke Point although parking can be difficult in the holiday season. Embarkation can give
problems if the sea is rough as there is a sea wall and at the higher stages of the tide it is necessary to launch from its sloping concrete base. If the
sea is boisterous it is better to launch from the sand further west.
This part of the island is extensively groyned and the tide race into Chichester Harbour can cause rapids to develop around the last few groynes.
The first building around the corner is a hospital offering patients a pleasant and interesting view across the harbourmouth towards West
Wittering. Next door is the inshore rescue boat station and at Black Point, also known as Sandy Point, is Hayling Island Sailing Club, home of
the largest fleet of sailing canoes in Britain. The next headland to the west is the site of a boatyard with yachts up on the slips. Lines of moorings
guide the paddler up the Emsworth Channel, leaving the built up area behind.
Saltings line the channel. Posts mark Mill Rithe which leads up to further moorings and boat yards. A barn is prominent in what is a farming
area, broken up by belts of trees through which the stumpy spire of North Hayling church is just visible. On the other side, the block of the
water tower dominates the disused airfield which covers most of Thorney Island. At the head of the channel, Emsworth’s gas holder sits above
the houses and swaying masts of the boats moored in the marina.
Travelling up the Sweare Deep involves passing the entrance to Northney Marina on the island. Beyond the church spire to the northwest of
Conigar Point are the remains of a castle, its tower lacking one side but still standing to its full height. A black tower to its west is built in the
shape of a lighthouse.
The Ship public house has a comprehensive range of food and, at low tide, a public footpath crosses the channel to it from the island. Normal
access is over Langstone Bridge and to its west the piers of the old railway bridge remain. It was considered essential for the island to be served
by rail if it was to become a second Brighton. After the first railway was washed away it was successfully established at the second attempt and
the first train arrived on the branch from Havant in 1867, terminating just north of West Town. The line has now been dismantled.
Between the two bridges another boatyard is situated. Passage between the piers of the old railway bridge leads into Langstone Harbour. The
north side of the harbour is overlooked by Ports Down while a tower block in Portsmouth breaks the skyline and a chimney to its left marks the
harbourmouth, a point which would not, otherwise, be obvious on the far side of Langstone Harbour. Long Island, Baker’s Island and South
Binness Island are all nature reserves. Cormorants and oystercatchers may be seen in the area. The Hayling Island coastline used to be the site
of oyster beds but now a protective wall of rubble is being bulldozed out over them to form a new marina. Hayling Windsurfers cannot wait for
the facilities to be built and park a double decker bus on the wall for the time being.
A large part of the Langstone Channel is designated as an area permitted for water skiing from April to September and the skiers operate from
a couple of rafts moored at the southwest end of their area. Near them are a number of Royal Navy Mk 5 rafts with threats about not landing or
mooring on them.
Large ships including dredgers use the Langstone Channel and things become very congested around the harbourmouth, not helped by the
various structures lying around. A metal fabrication is bounded by four green cones and a concrete floating dock lies with its back broken near
by.
A ferry connects Portsea Island with Hayling Island. Last century a thousand passenger ship, the SS Hayling, was set up to operate the service.
It also carried Portsea tram cars which were to continue to Westfield but the ship ran aground on a sandbank. After it took 11 days to refloat
her, the idea was abandoned. The Ferry Boat Inn is situated at the Hayling Island landing, facing another inshore rescue boat station across the
water.
The shoreline now becomes sandy with some shells but can be hazardous for the paddler. Gunner Point is popular for topless bathing in the
summer and some powerboat operators come close inshore with their attentions not focussed on other small boat users.
Both sides of each harbour have spits and at low water springs the East Winner can extend 2km out from the high water mark.
The town faces Hayling Bay except at Gunner Point where there are golf links. The built up area commences with bathing huts and public
toilets are strategically placed. Permanent buildings appear in the form of more substantial dwellings and a poor man’s answer to Bath’s Royal
Crescent. The sea wall gradually makes its appearance. Blackheaded gulls circle and cuttlefish come inshore to breed in the summer but the
hordes of tourists frighten away most wildlife.
A funfair is followed by more huts, holiday bungalows and the garish accoutrements of the seaside holiday resorts, bingo halls, amusement
arcades, chip and icecream shops and the Cutter public house.
Distance
Hayling Island is 7km long.
Campsites
There are four campsites on Hayling Island. The one at Selsmore is, perhaps, the most convenient with direct access to Chichester Harbour.
Youth Hostel
The Portsmouth hostel at Cosham is close to Portsmouth Harbour.
OS 1:50,000 Sheets
196 Solent & the Isle of Wight
197 Chichester & the Downs
Admiralty Chart
3418 Langstone & Chichester Harbours (1:20,000)
Tidal Constant
Dover + 20 mins at Portsmouth
Maritime Rescue Sub Centre
Solent. Freshwater (0983) 752265
December 1983