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THE RIVERS OF WEST AFRICA
Aboard the 34-Guest Private Yacht Callisto
JANUARY 25 – FEBRUARY 7, 2009
MALI: THE ROAD TO TIMBUKTU
PRE-CRUISE OPTION
JANUARY 18 - 26, 2009
© 2008
Lying across the Atlantic on the near shores of the African continent is a region unlike any you
have ever seen. West Africa is its name, its lifeblood delivered by a network of rivers draining that
continent’s mighty interior. Far from the well-established and traditional safari routes of East and
Southern Africa, West Africa lies well off the beaten path. Yet this is a spectacular land, a land of
rich history, vibrant West African culture, diverse birdlife, and plentiful natural wonders.
It is with great pleasure that we invite you to discover the Africa few people have seen, on a journey
to Senegal and The Gambia for a two-week odyssey of wildlife viewing, history, and culture. The
centerpiece of this trip is a weeklong voyage, cruising West Africa’s famous Saloum and Gambia
rivers aboard the 34-guest, private yacht Callisto. This beautiful and well-appointed vessel is the
first and only cruise ship to navigate the network of these two great rivers, which lead into the heart
of this complex and fascinating region.
Expedition cruising offers a rare and exciting opportunity to explore little known corners of the
planet and this special journey epitomizes that concept. Our customized itinerary is both land- AND
yacht-based, and is designed to take you to the best parks and preserves in Senegal and The Gambia.
Visits to River Gambia, Kiang West, and Doudj national parks reveal some of the greatest waterbird
spectacles found in all of Africa. If the prospect of seeing tens, possibly hundreds of thousands, of
waterfowl, pelicans, spoonbills, flamingos, waders, shorebirds, gulls, and terns excite you as much
as they do us then this is the trip for you! At Ranch de Bango, one of Senegal’s best wildlife lodges,
we’ll enjoy a menagerie of vultures, hawks, kingfishers, bee-eaters, rollers, “Old World” warblers,
hornbills, turacos, finches, and buntings.
In addition to seeing a host of wonderful birds, mammals, and reptiles, we will cruise the Saloum
Delta of Senegal and spend several days exploring the Gambia River. The Gambia, a small Englishspeaking enclave within Francophone Senegal, projects inland like a finger along the river that
gives the country its name, extending from the pounding surf of the Atlantic to the heat and dust of
the dry interior.
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Not only does this trip present a rare opportunity to see a cross-section of the birds and wildlife of
the Sahel, but it is also an ideal introduction to African fauna and flora. This is winter time in this
neck of the woods; the days will be sunny and warm, but not too hot, and we will enjoy morning and
afternoon hikes and boat trips while relaxing during the midday. Undoubtedly we will be treated to a
rich assortment of birds and other wildlife. Imagine setting your binoculars on the likes of Whitebacked Night-Heron, the very rarely seen White-crested Tiger-Heron, African Scissor-tailed Kite,
Black-crowned Crane, the sneaky African Finfoot, African Skimmer, Grey Pratincole, dapper
Egyptian Plover, Violet Turaco, Standardwing Nightjar, Red-throated Bee-eater, Resplendent Bluebellied Roller, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Bearded Barbet, Pied-winged Swallow, Oriole Warbler,
Western Bluebill, Black-chinned Quailfinch, African Golden-breasted Bunting, and Western Red
Colobus.
Although any African adventure focuses on natural wonders, our itinerary also includes
exploration of a number of sites of historical and cultural significance. We’ll visit the colorful openair markets of Kuntaur, the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of St. Louis and Goree islands, and the
Wassu Stone Circles of ancient Senegambian culture. We are also including a visit to the Gambian
National Museum in the country’s capital, Banjul, before finishing back in Dakar with time at the
Ifan Museum and Marche Soumbedioune artisans’ craft market.
Callisto is the perfect vessel for this cruise as it allows for travelling in considerable luxury—so
often a rarity in West Africa. Featuring elegantly designed cabins, broad viewing decks, and
superior European cuisine, there simply could not be a more comfortable way to experience the
charm of West Africa. Finally, a custom-designed itinerary includes the services of an excellent
Travel Dynamics staff, in addition to your VENT leaders, David Bishop and Peter Roberts, who are
eager to share the spectacular birdlife and other natural and historical wonders of West Africa with
you. Welcome aboard!
NOTE: An optional pre-cruise extension to Mali presents an opportunity to experience cultural
and birding highlights in a seldom-visited region. Highlighting the itinerary are visits to
legendary Timbuktu; Mopti, known for its carved wood sculptures and colored fabrics; Djenne,
the oldest city on the ancient trans-Saharan caravan route and home to the remarkable Grand
Mosque; and the Dogon region, famous for its intriguing ceremonial masks and ancient cliff
dwellings. Along with our exciting historical offerings, the birding could be spectacular. Besides
seeing some of the more widespread African species, we’ll try for some of the less-known Sahel
specialty birds. Great Spotted Cuckoo; Senegal Cuckoo; Blue-naped Mousebird; Striped Kingfisher;
Little Bee-eater; Black Wood-Hoopoe; Abysinnian Ground-Hornbill; African Gray Hornbill; Bearded
Barbet; Sun Lark; Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark; Preuss’s Cliff Swallow; Plain-backed Pipit; Northern
Anteater Chat; Cricket Warbler; Green-backed Carmaroptera; Senegal Eremomela; Northern
Crombec; Brown Babbler; Senar Penduline Tit; Scarlet-chested Sunbird; Black-crowned Tchagra;
Northern Puffback; and Greater Blue-eared, Long-tailed, and Chestnut-bellied starlings are among the
many possibilities.
January 25, Day 1: International flight to Dakar, Senegal. Participants will depart their home cities today
for Dakar, Senegal.
NIGHT: Aboard international aircraft in transit to Senegal
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January 26, Day 2: Arrival in Dakar; transfer to hotel; evening welcome and orientation. All participants
should arrive in Dakar anytime on January 26. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to the Hotel Sofitel
Teranga, a very lovely and comfortable facility with extensive grounds and beautiful landscaping. This evening
you’ll attend a welcome cocktail reception and trip orientation, followed by dinner at the hotel
The Republic of Senegal is the most westerly country on the African continent, situated between Guinea-Bissau
in the south and Mauritania in the north. It borders the Atlantic Ocean to the west, with a coastline of 531 km.
To the southeast, the country is bordered by Mali and Guinea. Apart from its coastline, The Gambia lies wholly
enclosed in the southern part of Senegal. Senegal has a total area of 196,190 km2 (of which 4,190 km2 is water)
and a population of almost 11 million people. The Senegal River flows from Guinea and forms the whole
northern and eastern border of Senegal and enters the Atlantic at Saint-Louis.
Senegal’s capital, Dakar, is located on the Cap Vert peninsula—the most westerly point on the African
continent. Dakar is often regarded as among Africa’s best cities, with a gentle and breezy temperate climate,
attractive tree-lined streets, and fine variety of restaurants and hotels. Dakar’s central area is relatively small
and remarkably uncrowded, despite a population of approximately one million people. For those with the time,
the recently renovated Museum of the Institut Fondamental d’Afrique presents what is arguably the finest
display of culture and art in West Africa.
We will convene this evening for dinner and a general get-together.
NIGHT: Hotel Sofitel Teranga, Dakar
January 27, Day 3: Drive from Dakar to St Louis; Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Following breakfast
this morning, we will start northward toward St Louis and the Mauritanian border. The climate of Senegal is
tropical, with a dry season spanning December to April; fortunately we will be there at the coolest and most
pleasant time of the year. This also coincides with the ideal season for birding. Senegal’s topography is
generally low lying with 90% of the country less than 100 m above sea level. The country can be divided into
five distinct habitat zones according to soils and vegetation: the Senegal river valley which lies in the Sahel
biome; the coastal zone from south of the Senegal River to the Gambia River; the ground-nut zone which covers
some two-thirds of the country including the vast Sahel and Sudan savannas of the interior; and the southeast
including the only area of Guinea forest vegetation in the country. There are also important areas of mangroves.
Much of our drive north will be along a well-made paved road that passes through a number of small villages,
the regional towns of Thies and Louga, and a mosaic of farmland and dry Sahel woodland and scrub. Birding
will undoubtedly begin even before we get on our bus. Naturally we will stop for anything of interest along the
way and some of the birds to look for include congregations of African White-backed, Ruppell's Griffon,
Hooded and Eurasian Griffon vultures along roadsides, and if we are fortunate, the huge Lappet-faced Vulture,
Grasshopper Buzzard, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Senegal Parrot, Little and African Palm swifts, African Hoopoe,
Green Wood Hoopoe, and spectacular Long-tailed and Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starlings, which are fairly
common in roadside trees. Venturing further north, Rufous-crowned and Abyssinian rollers and Namaqua and
Laughing doves may be seen on telegraph wires, along with Speckled Pigeon and Red-billed Firefinch. As the
habitat becomes more arid, Chestnut-bellied Starlings and Blue-naped Mousebirds begin to appear. We will
reach St Louis around mid-day and just in time for lunch! With its bustling market and local people dressed in
colourful clothing going about their daily routines, it will be very apparent why St Louis is considered the
colonial capital of Senegal.
After lunch we’ll continue on to Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, with an expected arrival in the mid-afternoon.
We’ll get settled into our rooms before emerging for a couple hours of birding until sunset, followed by dinner.
NIGHT: Hotel du Djoudj, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary
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January 28, Day 4: Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary; Ranch de Bango. Following an early breakfast this
morning, we will spend half the day at Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, one of the world’s great freshwater
wetlands. Undoubtedly this is a fantastic place! As a result of its international importance for birds, especially
migratory species, the sanctuary has received declaration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as a Ramsar
Site. It is a wetland of 16,000 hectares and is composed of a large lake surrounded by streams, ponds, and
backwater sloughs, all of which form a sanctuary for large, sometimes enormous, numbers of waterbirds.
Nevertheless, it forms just a small part of the expansive delta floodplain of the Senegal River, the second largest
river in West Africa. This river demarcates the boundary between the Sahara and the Sahel and thus forms an
important ecological barrier at the edge of this huge desert. A third of the wetland is located in neighboring
Mauritania.
At the time of our visit, receding seasonal floodwaters host enormous numbers of northern nesting birds
escaping the rigors of the European winter; and they join with large numbers of tropical African waterbirds to
form an incredible congregation.
If it’s a good year for seeing sizeable concentrations of birds, witnessing immense clouds of wildfowl—largely
White-faced Whistling Duck, Garganey and Northern Pintail, but also Fulvous Whistling Duck and Northern
Shoveler—is to witness one of life’s great avian spectacles. Shallow, saline lagoons teem with Greater
Flamingos, and sometimes Lesser Flamingos, while hundreds of Great White Pelicans congregate to feed on the
abundant fish. We may also have time for a boat trip to visit a breeding colony of pelicans, where as many as
17,000 individuals occur, along with attendant opportunist Nile crocodiles. Some of the other species we may
encounter within this wonderland of birds include Great Cormorant, Purple Heron, Black-crowned NightHeron, Little Bittern, Glossy and Sacred ibises, African Spoonbill, Black and Yellow-billed storks, a wide
range of ducks including the large Knob-billed or Comb Duck, African Fish Eagle, African Swamphen, African
Jacana, the lovely Black Crowned Crane, Greater Painted-Snipe, Collared Pratincole, and large numbers of
shorebirds, especially Ruff. We hope to make a special effort to find the Arabian Bustard, especially if we have
not seen it earlier. Over 300 species have been recorded in this reserve, and we can be sure that by the time we
leave, our thoughts will be replete with the birds we have seen.
Around mid-day we’ll make the short drive to Ranch de Bango, arriving in time for a late lunch.
During the cool afternoon hours, we will explore the bird-rich gardens and nearby riverine bush-land around
our very attractive accommodations. Here, we should be treated to a fine selection of West African birds
including Double-spurred Francolin, African Fish Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Squacco Heron, Eurasian Spoonbill,
Black Stork, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Black Crake, Purple Swamphen, the lovely Allen's Gallinule (if we
are lucky), African Jacana, African Wattled Lapwing, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Caspian and Gull-billed terns,
and Black-billed Wood-Dove. Other exciting possibilities during our exploration are Rose-ringed Parakeet,
Senegal Coucal; Long-tailed Nightjar; Striped, Grey-headed, Pied and Malachite kingfishers; Little Bee-eater;
Blue-naped Mousebird; the striking Vieillot’s Barbet; Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark; River and Tawnyflanked prinias; Sedge Warbler; European Reed Warbler; Grey-backed Camaroptera; Northern Crombec;
Subalpine, Olivaceous and Melodious warblers; Common Whitethroat; Common Redstart; Black-crowned
Tchagra; Yellow-crowned Gonolek; spectacular male Sudan Golden Sparrows; Blue-cheeked Cordonbleu; Redbilled Firefinch; and again, if we are lucky, Zebra Waxbill; Northern Grey Headed Sparrow; Greater Blue-eared
Glossy Starling; and Scarlet-chested and Beautiful sunbirds.
NIGHT: Ranch de Bango, St. Louis
January 29, Day 5: Birding Ranch de Bango; afternoon visit to St. Louis Island. At this time of the year
sunrise happens at a relatively “civilized” time. Consequently, breakfast will not be unacceptably early. We will
have much of the day to explore the productive ecosystems in the vicinity of Ranch de Bango. The possibilities
are many and our time will likely be divided among two major sites.
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We will set out early in four-wheel-drive vehicles to explore the Ndiael Faunal reserve. Located in an alluvial
basin in the floodplain of the Senegal River, this reserve is primarily arid Sahel with dry scrub and Acacia trees,
plus seasonal lakes. Depending on the presence of rain-fed lakes, thousands of waterbirds can be present
including Greater Flamingo; Eurasian Spoonbill; Sacred and Glossy ibises; White Pelican; Yellow-billed,
Black, and White storks; the incomparable Quail-Plover; huge flocks of Garganey; and Spur-winged Goose.
Other possibilities include Black-shouldered Kite; Short-toed Eagle; Montague's Harrier; the delicate Pallid
Harrier; African Hawk-Eagle; Lanner Falcon; Pied Avocet; Black-necked Stilt; Spotted Thick-knee; African
Wattled Lapwing; shorebirds, including Kittlitz's Plover, Little Stint and Common Redshank; Marsh Sandpiper;
Common Greenshank; Ruff; dapper Cream-coloured Coursers; Caspian and Gull-billed terns (the latter
sometimes in impressive numbers); Whiskered Tern; Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse; Short-eared Owl; Bluecheeked Bee-eater; Abyssinian Roller; the much sought-after Greater Hoopoe-Lark; Black-crowned, Chestnutbacked, and Grey-crowned sparrow-larks; Pied and Yellow wagtails; Black Bush-Robin; Woodchat Shrike;
Sand Martins by the thousands; and all while nearby reedbeds accommodate Orange Bishops; Red-billed
Quelea; and Vitteline Masked Weaver. Other possibilities include Sudan Golden Sparrow, Common Gonolek,
Southern Grey Shrike, Desert Cisticola, Orphean Warbler, Black-rumped Waxbill, White-rumped Seedeater,
African Quail-finch, and White-billed Buffalo Weaver.
This classic Sahel country is home to a handful of very special birds and we hope to make a concerted effort to
find the enormous, but increasingly threatened, Arabian Bustard, as well as the localized Savile's Bustard, and
very handsome, but uncommon, Denham’s Bustard; and also Kordofan Lark and African Quail-Finch.
After lunch at the ranch we will want to have time to explore Les Trois Marigots. These are a series of lakes
near Saint Louis offering superb birding. Species found in this area include African Darter, Black Egret, Whitefaced Whistling-Duck, Egyptian Goose, the handsome African Pygmy-Goose, large numbers of Garganey,
Marsh and Montagu's harriers, Purple Swamphen, and Denham's, Arabian and Savile's bustards (this may be
our best chance for finding these three large and very localized species). We also hope to see many species of
shorebirds, in addition to Pied Avocet, Spotted Thick-knee; Cream-coloured and Temminck's coursers;
Namaqua Dove; Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse; Verreaux's Eagle Owl; Grey-headed Kingfisher; Eurasian
Hoopoe; Little Grey Woodpecker; Green Wood Hoopoe; Yellow Wagtail; Northern Anteater Chat; Desert
Cisticola; and Cricket Warbler—rare in this area; Sennar Penduline Tit; Chestnut-bellied Starling; Black-faced
Quailfinch; and Northern Red Bishop.
At some point during the afternoon, we’ll travel to St. Louis Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site connected
to the mainland by a bridge. We’ll take time to tour the island, with its 18th – and 19th – century mansions. We’ll
return to Ranch de Bango for the night.
NIGHT: Ranch de Bango, St Louis
January 30, Day 6: Langue de Barbarie National Park; Thies; Return to Dakar. This morning we will
drive to Langue de Barbarie National Park and board a motorized boat before heading down the Senegal River.
Located about 25 km from St Louis, this national park consists of 20 km of intertidal flats and sand dunes on a
spit formed across the mouth of the Senegal River. As we depart, we should be looking for Audouin’s Gull
among the many Grey-headed Gulls. Our principle destination is the Isle des Oiseaux, which is part of the
national park and supports a large breeding colony of Slender-billed Gulls and Caspian, Royal, and Sandwich
terns. It is a very small island in the middle of the Senegal River, about one hundred metres across. It is also a
good roost for many species of waterbirds, including pelicans as well as other gull and tern species. The island
is closed to access so we must cruise around it for the best viewing. Other possibilities are Little Tern, Western
Grey Plantain Eater, scores of Pied Kingfishers, Red Knot, Sanderling, White-faced Whistling- Duck, and
Black-headed Heron.
Around mid-day we’ll begin the return journey to Dakar, stopping for lunch at Thies, home of a world-famous
tapestry cooperative.
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We’ll arrive in Dakar in the late afternoon for embarkation aboard Callisto.
NIGHT: Aboard Callisto
January 31, Day 7: Cruising the Saloum River to Djiffere; Fadiout; cruising the River Gamiba. In the
morning, Callisto will enter Senegal’s Sine-Saloum river delta, an area of 180,000 hectares comprised of a maze
of mangrove islands and lagoons surrounded by savannah woodland and gallery forest. This is the home of the
infrequently encountered and, consequently, almost mythical White-crested Tiger-Heron, in addition to a host
of other birds and wildlife. The reserve derives its name from the Saloum River and its main affluent, the Sine.
We will explore this beautiful area by boat, which should permit wonderful opportunities for wildlife viewing.
Some of the birds and other wildlife we may encounter include West African manatee, the very elegant Western
Red Colobus monkey, and Warthog. Mud flats host Saddle-billed Stork as well as many migrant shorebirds
including Bar-tailed Godwit; Eurasian Curlew; Whimbrel; Eurasian Oystercatcher; Ringed and Kentish plovers;
Whiskered, Royal, Caspian, and Little terns; while enormous Goliath Herons hide in the mangroves. There are
also many raptor species in the area including Dark Chanting Goshawk, Grasshopper Buzzard, African HawkEagle, Osprey, African Hobby, and Grey Kestrel. Other species found in the area include Black-headed Heron;
Hooded Vulture; Palm-nut Vulture; African Green and Bruce's green pigeons; Blue-spotted Wood-Dove; Fourbanded Sandgrouse; Senegal Parrot; Northern White-faced Scops-Owl; Pearl-spotted Owlet; White-crowned
Robin-Chat; Pygmy Sunbird; and Bronze-tailed Glossy Starling. And if we are lucky, Four-banded Sandgrouse.
Later in the morning, as the day heats up, we will make our way to Djiffere and from there drive to the
fascinating fishing village of Fadiout, an island composed entirely of shells accumulated over centuries. This
site is certainly one of Senegal’s most interesting. Everything here is covered in shells including the walls of the
houses and narrow pathways.
We will return to Callisto for lunch before continuing southward on our journey. We’ll cruise along the coast
in the afternoon before turning eastward as Callisto enters the River Gambia and sails to Tendaba.
NIGHT: Aboard Callisto
February 1, Day 8: River Gambia: Tendaba & Kiang West National Park; Baobolong Wetland Reserve.
From the village of Tendaba, situated on the south bank of the River Gambia, we will explore one of The
Gambia’s most important wildlife reserves, Kiang West National Park. This is, by Gambian standards, a
substantial area of unpopulated savannah, although seven villages lie close to its border. Most of the site is on a
low-lying plateau which supports a degraded savannah dominated by open Combretum and Pterocarpus
erinaceus woodland mixed with occasional taller trees such as Adansonia digitata and Ceiba pentandra and a
layer of Andropogon grasses. There are a few areas of more closed-canopy woodland on escarpments and near
the village of Jali. Towards the river, the plateau is cut by the tidal inlets of Jarin, Jali and Nganingkoi Bolons.
Here, there is a typical zonation from Mitragyna-Acacia woodland to saltmarsh, Avicennia mangrove and
Rhizophora mangrove.
The park extends to the bank of the river. There are several small watering holes below the escarpment and
beyond these are saltmarsh, mangroves, and narrow tidal mudflats. This area is notable for its more than 250
species of birds as well as a good cross-section of the mammals and reptiles recorded in the Gambia. Though
mammals are scarce, this is a great birding area and some of the species we may encounter include Gabar and
Chanting goshawks; Brown Snake-Eagle; Crested Hawk-Eagle; the magnificent Bateleur and equally imposing
Martial Eagle. With a bit of luck, we may find the dainty and very lovely African Scissor-tailed Kite; Grey
Kestrel; Hammerkop; Hadada Ibis; Woolly-necked Stork; Black Crake; Black-crowned Crane; Senegal Thickknee; Bruce’s Green Pigeon; Brown-necked Parrot; Mottled Spinetail; Blue-breasted Kingfisher; Whitethroated and Northern Carmine bee-eaters; the huge and peculiar Abysinnian Ground Hornbill; Yellow-fronted
Tinkerbird; African Blue Flycatcher; Red-shouldered Cuckoo-Shrike; Leaden Grey Flycatcher; Mosque
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Swallow; White-shouldered Black Tit; Black-rumped Waxbill; Cut-throat; Village Indigobird; Mouse-brown
and Beautiful sunbirds; and Yellow-fronted Canary.
Despite illegal hunting, all the major mammals known to be permanently resident in the Gambia at the present
have been recorded in Kiang West National Park, making it the foremost wildlife reserve in the country. The
park offers a significant national refuge for species such as caracal, serval, bushbuck, and common duiker,
which are all fairly widespread, but occur at low density. Warthogs are abundant in the park and surrounding
woodlands. Spotted Hyenas are also common—their tracks are found regularly throughout the area but they are
shy and rarely seen during the day. There have been occasional sightings of leopards in the area, though being
shy and elusive, they are unlikely to be encountered. With a bit of luck, we may encounter the impressive
Clawless Otter. Reptiles that occur include Nile crocodile, African python, royal python, Nile monitor, sand
snake, spitting cobra, and puff adder. Chelonians are represented by the interesting hinge-back tortoises found
in the savannah woodlands and the hinged or mud terrapins which occur in the bolons (tributaries or creeks).
During the afternoon, we will board local boats to navigate the waterways and maze of islands that comprise
Baobolong Wetland Reserve, a notable bird sanctuary and a wonderland of mangroves, some of which are over
60 feet tall. Several very special birds occur here including White-backed Night-Heron; Goliath Heron; Woollynecked Stork; Haddada Ibis; spectacular African Fish-Eagles; African Finfoot; and, if we are very lucky, the
huge orange Pel’s Fishing-Owl.
NIGHT: Aboard Callisto
February 2, Day 9: Cruising the River Gambia: Tendaba to Kuntaur; Wassu Stone Circles. This morning
we will make a final exploration of the river opposite Tendaba before navigating deeper into the River Gambia.
The river beyond Tendaba narrows and its banks are covered with tropical forest, providing a constant
opportunity to see birds and other wildlife. Passing by remote villages with grass-thatched huts, we will arrive
in the village of Kuntaur, set on a beautiful bend in the river. Here, there may be an opportunity to visit the
colorful weekly market where many tribes gather to sell their wares. We will also explore the nearby Wassu
Stone Circles, the remnants of an ancient Senegambian culture, dating to about A.D. 750. Later in the day we
will attend a traditional ceremony of local music and dance. Birding will be opportunistic, but in this part of the
world you can bet there is always plenty to see.
NIGHT: Aboard Callisto
February 3, Day 10: River Gambia National Park Janjanbureh. The River Gambia National Park (also
known as Baboon Island) is a complex of five islands (total area 585ha) and was gazetted in 1978. All islands
are quite flat and possess mainly gallery forest with some open swampy and savannah areas. The park is
situated in Central River Division, about 300 km by road from Banjul. It forms one of the last refuges for the
nationally threatened Hippopotamus. Since 1979, a Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project has operated on the
islands, and there are currently about fifty chimpanzees living on three of the larger islands. In addition to
reintroducing an indigenous species to the country, the existence of the project in the River Gambia National
Park has assisted in protecting the forest and its resources from over-exploitation.
We are not permitted to land on these islands, however; instead, early in the morning, we will board local
motorized pirogues and explore the dappled forest edge and shady channels that separate these islands. Some of
the birds and other wildlife we may encounter, both here and in the surrounding north bank bush, include
Western Banded Snake-Eagle, Ayer’s Hawk-Eagle, Stone Partridge, Little Heron, Senegal Thick-knee, and, if
we are very lucky, Adamawa Turtle-Dove, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Yellow-throated Leaflove, and Swamp
Flycatcher. On the south bank near Bansang we will look for the intensely colored Red-throated Bee-eater.
With a bit of luck we may be able to watch these gorgeous birds as they attend a breeding colony. A small pool
of water at the colony usually attracts other birds as well and we will hope to see Red-rumped Swallow
(sometimes split as West African Swallow), Cut-throat Finch, Exclamatory Paradise Whydah (although if the
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birds are out of plumage they are impossible to separate from Sahel Paradise Whydah) and its host species,
Red-winged Pytilia.
Other species we may well find include Marabou Stork; Tawny Eagle; Gabar Goshawk; Grey Kestrel; African
Scops-Owl; Northern Carmine Bee-eater; Broad-billed Roller; European Turtle Dove; Four-banded Sandgrouse;
Green Wood-Hoopoe; Western Red-billed Hornbill; Bearded Barbet; Fine-spotted and Golden-tailed
woodpeckers; White-crowned Robin-Chat; Red-faced Cisticola; and Oriole Warbler. The most frequently
encountered mammals are common warthog and Guinea baboon. Other possibilities include Callithrix monkey,
western red colobus, ratel, serval, African clawless otter, West African manatee, bushbuck, and Maxwell’s and
Bush duikers. A satellite islet, just a few acres in size, provides a nesting site for many thousands of breeding
egrets, herons, cormorants, Sacred Ibis, weavers and doves—all in close proximity to one another.
The town of Janjanbureh, also known by its colonial name of Georgetown, was once an important trading post
for the British. Later in the morning we will take time to explore the quaint old town, where most of the
buildings date from the 19th century, and shop for local handicrafts. Janjanbureh’s woodlands and leafy
riverfront also host a large number of bird species, so there will be something for everyone. During the
afternoon we will explore both dry bush country and some small wetland areas that are characteristic habitats of
eastern Gambia. Late in the afternoon we will return to Callisto and spend the night anchored in Kuntaur.
NIGHT: Aboard Callisto
February 4, Day 11: The River Gambia. This morning we will set sail from Kuntaur and head downriver to
Banjul. We have a long journey but we will take time to stop for anything of interest along the way. We should
arrive in Banjul late in the evening.
NIGHT: Aboard Callisto
February 5, Day 12: Banjul; Abuko Nature Reserve; Makasutu Culture Forest. Founded by the British
early in the 19th century, Banjul is the capital and commercial center of the Gambia. Early this morning we will
disembark and drive to the Abuko Nature Reserve. Abuko Nature Reserve was established in 1967, although it
has been protected as a water-catchment area since 1916. It lies at the northernmost extremity of the ForestSavannah Mosaic zone and, consequently, attracts a high diversity of species, including some forest specialities
at the edge of their ranges. Abuko encompasses a small (73 hectares), but nevertheless important, example of
primary gallery forest–a habitat now very rare in the Gambia.
Surrounded by mature savannah woodland and graced by bird rich pools, this tiny reserve should provide us
with a fine last hurrah and an opportunity to see a suite of species we are unlikely to encounter elsewhere on the
trip. We will explore the area by means of a series of well-marked trails. Some of the special birds we may
encounter include Western Little Sparrowhawk; Red-chested Goshawk (split from African); the very elusive
Ahanta Francolin; the delightful but extremely skulking White-spotted Flufftail; African Crake; Verreaux’s
Eagle Owl; Lemon-rumped Tinkerbird; Spotted Honeyguide; Buff-spotted Woodpecker; Red-shouldered
Cuckoo-Shrike; Yellow-throated Leaflove; Grey-headed Bristlebill; the strange and beautiful Moho (or OrioleWarbler); Yellow-breasted Apalis; Green Hylia; Little Greenbul; African and Red-bellied paradise flycatchers;
Collared Sunbird; and the spectacular Western Bluebill. Other birds we may encounter include Black-headed
Heron; the Umbrella Bird or Black Heron; possibly White-backed Night-Heron; Palm-nut Vulture; Black
Crake; African Jacana; Northern White-faced Owl; Giant, Malachite, and African Pygmy kingfishers; Swallowtailed Bee-eater; Yellowbill; African Pied Hornbill; gorgeous Violet and Green turacos; Western Grey Plantaineater; Greater and Lesser honeyguides; the lovely Yellow-throated Longclaw; Fanti Saw-wing; Pied-winged
Swallow; Snowy-crowned Robin Chat; lovely White Helmetshrikes; Northern Puffback; Grey-headed BushShrike; Brown-throated Wattle-eye; and Black-necked Weaver. Other wildlife possibilities include Patas, green
vervet, and Western red colobus monkeys; Gambian Sun and Striped ground-squirrels; bushbuck; red-flanked
Duiker; Nile monitor; common agama lizard; and Nile crocodile.
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After a full morning of birding, we will take lunch at the Makasutu Culture Forest, a private nature reserve
tucked away within beautiful woodland and waterways. Makasutu is a local Mandinka word which means “holy
and sacred deep forest.” The reserve is fed by a tributary of the Gambia River called the Mandina Bolon and is
a superb area in which to relax, eat, and enjoy some great birding.
We may also enjoy some Jola—traditional tribal dancing, drumming and singing—as well as a meal at the
Baobab Restaurant and Bar, serving a traditional Gambian lunch (organically grown Gambian food). You can
also see a palm wine tapper at work as he clambers to the top of a palm tree using just a rope. You might also
see weavers and silversmiths at work, as well as fishermen and farmers, whose practices have remained
unchanged over the years.
We’ll return to Banjul later in the afternoon to visit the National Museum’s exhibits on the history and culture
of the country. The possibility exists for some birding until dusk for those who do not wish to visit the museum.
In this scenario, we may have an opportunity search for nightbirds, such as the spectacular Pennant-winged and
Long-trained nightjars.
NIGHT: On board Callisto
February 6, Day 13: Disembark in Dakar; Goree Island; Dakar highlights. This morning we will
disembark back in Dakar. For those who wish, there may be an opportunity for some local birding before we
check into our hotel. Possibilities include a visit to Cape Vert the most westerly point in Africa and the
peninsula on which Dakar stands. The tip projects 50 km out to sea from the main north-south line of the coast,
offering exceptional opportunities for sea-watching. Possibilities include Cory's (Cape Verde), Great
Shearwater, Wilson's Storm-petrel, Northern Gannet often in large numbers, Brown Booby, Pomarine Skua,
Great Skua, South Polar Skua, Sabine's Gull and Roseate Tern.
For most of the day, however, there will be activities scheduled for exploring the cultural and historical
highlights in and around the city. We’ll take time to visit Goree Island, settled by Europeans in the 15th century,
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Back in Dakar, we’ve included stops at the IFAN Museum and the
Marche Soumbedioune artisans’ craft market.
We’ll have a final dinner at the hotel this evening before making our way to the airport for our international
flights home.
DAY: Dayrooms at Sofitel Teranga, Dakar
NIGHT: Aboard international aircraft in transit home
February 7, Day 14: Arrive home. Participants departing Dakar on the previous evening will arrive home
today.
MALI: THE ROAD TO TIMBUKTU
PRE-CRUISE EXTENSION
JANUARY 18 - 26, 2009
On this optional pre-cruise extension to Mali, we’ll explore an enthralling mix of unique subSaharan history, culture, and wildlife. A visit to legendary Timbuktu headlines an action-packed
program that includes the best of Mali’s other significant historical and cultural sites as well as
seeking out much of its alluring birdlife. To our knowledge, this will be the first ever bird tour to
this country.
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Of course we will visit Timbuktu—a place most people only dream of visiting, but our travels will
see us touring Djenne, with its incomparable Grand Mosque (the world’s largest mud-brick
building) and exploring the very strange Dogon country where we’ll witness the fabulous Dogon
Mask Dance. There will be time to absorb the essence of this truly fascinating part of the world, its
eons of history painted on a canvas of pastel colours, illuminated by a fascinating kaleidoscope of
African peoples and their vibrant life-styles. The exotic Fulani women, with their extraordinary hair
creations garnished with equally exotic jewellery, will remind us of just how different this part of the
world actually is. We will wander through cool mud-walled towns surrounded by the sands of the
Sahara and listen, entranced, to the chant of prayers in these most ancient of worlds. We are
personally very excited at the prospect of leading you to such an intriguing and little visited part of
the African continent.
Our travels in Mali will afford us a rare opportunity to bird the Sahel in comfort—and the birding
should be no less interesting. Here, we are likely to come across a number of species we are not
likely to see farther west. Among the more prized possibilities are Arabian Bustard, Quail Plover,
Golden Nightjar, Little Grey Woodpecker, Kordofan Lark, Black Scrub-Robin, Cricket Warbler,
Brown-necked Raven, Sudan Golden Sparrow, Sahel Paradise-Whydah and the endemic Mali
Firefinch—among many other more widespread African species.
January 18, Day 1: International flight to Bamako, Mali. Participants will depart their home cities today for
Bamako, Mali.
NIGHT: Aboard international aircraft in transit to Mali
January 19, Day 2: Fly to Bamako, capital of Mali, Africa/Arrive Bamako, Mali. Participants should arrive
Bamako, Mali anytime on January 19. Upon arrival, we will be escorted to our accommodations, the Hotel
Sofitel l’Amitie Bamako, where participants will have the remainder of the day to relax and recuperate from the
long overseas flight. This evening, dinner will be on your own.
Mali is a large land-locked country lying between 10° and 26° latitude north and supports an estimated
population of 11 million people. It shares borders with Senegal, Mauritania, Algeria, Niger, Burkina Faso, Côte
D'Ivoire and Guinea. The climate is dominated by the inter-tropical convergence zone (ITCZ), which is
produced where the sun tracks directly overhead at midday, heating the ground and causing air to rise. Winds
coming from the north and the south converge with the rising warm air, producing violent convection clouds
and rainfall, with sometimes violent downpours of 30 mm of rain or more in one hour. This weather formation
passes north of the equator in the summer and south in the winter. As a result, the lower latitudes in Mali have a
longer rainy season—May through October—and, at around 15° latitude in central Mali, the rains are usually
limited to July and August. During the dry season there is almost no precipitation. The average annual rainfall
in the 1970s varied from 51 mm in Tessalit in the Sahara to 1129 mm in Sikasso in southernmost Mali. There is
also great variation from year to year in the amount of rainfall. As a result, the level of water in the Niger
interior delta may fall significantly or flood and destroy houses and crops.
Mali is a part of the Sahel region where the pre-colonial empires of West Africa arose, and is named after one
of them. These empires were based on the gold and, to a lesser degree, salt trades from modern Ghana that
stretched across the desert to North Africa and Europe. The empire of Ghana was founded in western Mali and
existed from the 8th-13th centuries A.D. The Mandingo Empire of Mali lasted from the 13th-16th centuries. The
emperor Mansa Musa made the pilgrimage in 1324 and astonished Cairo with his wealth of gold when he
distributed alms to the poor. Next, the Songhai Empire founded the University of Timbuktu, a town whose
reputation spread over a large area as a center of learning. Ancient Mali covered part of the territory of the
modern state but was centered in what is now the Senegal-Guinea border. In 1591 the Moroccan army
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(including English and other European slaves) of Ahmed al Mansur conquered the Songhai Empire of which
today’s Mali was a part. This act destroyed the local African political culture and the gold trade and nothing
was left in its place. As the Moroccans could not supply a proper administration, only a mutinous garrison
remained until 1618, terrorizing the surrounding area with private enterprise raids. The region became a French
colony from the mid 19th-century to 1960 and was known as the French Soudan. The modern borders were
decided by the French colonial government and are largely attributed to the route of the railway to the coast at
Dakar, Senegal.
The southern part of the country is dry savannah and desert fringe; the northern part is dry Sahara desert. The
people of the desert are the nomadic Tuareg whose traditional role, before airplanes and modern
communications, was herding their animals and raiding the settled people of the south. Within its borders, Mali
contains huge extremes of habitats, vegetation, and avifauna. Key wintering grounds for Palearctic waterbirds
and breeding areas for African waterbirds are found where the Niger River forms a large interior delta between
the historic cities of Djenne and Timbuktu. The Sahara desert occupies the entire northern half of Mali, and the
Sahel zone runs through Mali from east to west, each with its own unique avifauna. South of the Sahel are
Sudanian savannah and Guinean savannah. Mali’s cumulative list of birds is currently being revised, but will
probably total between 400 and 500 species.
NIGHT: Hotel Sofitel l’Amitie Bamako
January 20, Day 3: Bamako to Timbuktu. This morning we will take a flight from Bamako to Timbuktu. Few
places in the world have such a beguiling aura of mystery as does Timbuktu. Long taken to denote the remotest
end of the earth, Timbuktu is, for most people, a place hidden in the depths of the back of beyond. This Malian
city is so wrapped in legend that many people think of Timbuktu as a mythical, timeless land rather than a city
with a real history. For West Africans, however, Timbuktu was an economic and cultural capital equal in
historical importance to acclaimed cities like Rome, Athens, Jerusalem, and Mecca. It was founded by Tuareg
nomads during 1100 C.E. as a camp for its proximity to the Niger River. Caravans quickly began hauling salt
from mines in the Sahara Desert to trade for gold and slaves brought along the river from the south. By the 14thcentury, it had became a major center for the trans-Sahara gold and salt trades as well Islamic scholarship and
culture and the Oxford University of the Sahara, despite the rise and fall of powerful dynasties around it. When
the emperor Mansa Musa undertook an extravagant pilgrimage with an entourage of thousands from Timbuktu
to Mecca via Cairo in 1324, he transformed European and Arabian perceptions about West Africa. Stopping in
Cairo to visit the sultan, Musa gave away so much gold that the Egyptian money market crashed.
From the early part of the 14th-century to the time of the Moroccan invasion in the late sixteenth century, the
city of Timbuktu became an important intellectual and spiritual center of the Islamic world, attracting people
from as far away as Saudi Arabia to study there. Great mosques, universities, schools, and libraries were built
under the Mali and Songhai empires, some of which still stand today. Timbuktu's golden age ended in the late
16th-century, when a Moroccan army destroyed the Songhai Empire. Portuguese navigators ensured Timbuktu's
decline by establishing reliable trade routes along the West African coast and undercutting the city's
commercial power. Around 400 years ago, European merchant ships began trading along the West African
coast, and the cross-Saharan trade routes lost their importance. Having lost the source of its wealth, Timbuktu
declined and became known as a lost city.
Today, the very fabric of Timbuktu is threatened by what once contributed to the city's success—the Sahara
Desert. The desert, which for centuries brought wealth to the city, now brings only drifting sands, driven by the
dry wind of the Harmattan, that threaten to smother the city and its monuments. This desertification has
destroyed the vegetation, water supply, and many historical structures in the city. In response to the threat of
encroachment by desert sands, Timbuktu was inscribed on the World Heritage In Danger List in 1990 and
UNESCO established a conservation program to safeguard the city. Today, Timbuktu is still on the "must-do"
list of adventurous travellers, but few have any idea why such a desolate city should be of such interest. With
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the restoration efforts started in the late 1990s to reclaim some of Timbuktu's heritage from the sands of the
Sahara, there is hope that this situation can change.
Situated on the southernmost edge of the Sahara, Timbuktu is about eight miles from the Niger River (but much
closer during the rainy season!). Our time in the city will be divided between visits to some of the most
significant cultural and historical sites and birding.
Among the city’s primary historical attractions are the 15th-century Djingareyber and Sankore mosques, the
Explorer’s Houses, and the Ahmed Baba Library.
In addition to exploring this ancient city, we’ll either take a short river trip or drive out into the desert, giving us
opportunities to look for birds as well as see the Tuareg people within the context of their land. If we are lucky,
we may even encounter a camel train. Timbuktu is rarely, if ever, visited by birders and there is little
information on what species we might encounter. However, from species range maps it is possible to deduce
that the following species might be encountered: a variety of waterbirds along the Niger River; African
Swallow-tailed Kite; Ruppell’s and Eurasian griffon vultures; Bateleur, Pallid Harrier; Gabar Goshawk; Martial
Eagle; Red-necked and Red-footed falcons; Nubian Bustard; Cream-coloured and Temminck’s coursers; several
dove species; Grey-headed Kingfisher; Green Wood-Hoopoe; Western Red-billed Hornbill; Viellot’s Barbet;
Grey Woodpecker; Singing Bush-lark; the localized Korodofan Lark; Desert, Greater Short-toed, Dunn’s, and
Crested larks; Common House Martin; Long-billed and Red-throated pipits; Rufous and Black scrub-robins;
Northern, Black-eared, Isabelline, and Desert wheatears; possibly Heuglin’s Wheatear; Northern Anteater Chat;
Cricket Warbler; Yellow-bellied Eremomela; Common Whitethroat and a variety of migrant Palearctic
warblers; Fulvous Babbler; Senar Penduline Tit; Beautiful Sunbird; Brown-necked Raven; Desert Sparrow;
Red-billed Firefinch; and African Silverbill.
NIGHT: Hotel Columbe, Timbuktu
January 21, Day 4: Timbuktu to Mopti. This morning we will fly by chartered flight to Mopti. Mopti and the
surrounding region is a very interesting part of West Africa—a vibrant town with a large market, a beautiful
mosque, and the most vibrant port on the Niger River. Located at the confluence of the Bani and Niger rivers, it
is set on high ground and surrounded during the rainy season by swamps and flood-water. After settling into our
hotel, we will have an opportunity to explore the town and visit the imposing mud-brick mosque and exciting
Grand Marche. During the afternoon we will take a boat trip along the Niger where we should be able to see an
exciting cross-section of birds that make their homes along this internationally important waterway. Each year
2-3 million waterbirds depart Europe with the onset of winter and cross the Sahara to reside along the Niger
River. It’s quite remarkable to think of so many birds concentrating on this narrow ribbon of fertility, but
perhaps when one sees how human beings have behaved in a similar fashion, it is not so surprising. Some of the
birds we may encounter include the subtly handsome Egyptian Plover or Crocodile Bird; with a bit of luck, the
very lovely African Scissor-tailed Kite; Grey Pratincole; Northern Carmine Bee-eater; Abyssinian Roller;
Cricket Warbler; Yellow-billed Oxpecker; and Somali Golden-Sparrow.
NIGHT: Hotel Kanaga, Mopti
January 22, Day 5: Mopti to Djenne and back. We will depart early to take advantage of the early morning
cool. Our route today will take us south and west across a mosaic of Sahelian acacia savannah and degraded
“range-lands” paralleling the Niger River. We will make regular stops along the way for anything of interest or
just to take short hikes in the “bush” to see what we can find.
Birds we may encounter include Black-shouldered Kite; African Swallow-tailed Kite; several species of
vulture; Brown Snake Eagle; Lizard and Red-necked buzzards; Tawny Eagle; Long-crested Eagle; if we are
lucky, the peculiar-looking Secretary Bird; Lesser, Common, Fox, and Grey kestrels; Lanner Falcon; Common
Quail; Stone Partridge; Double-spurred Francolin; Helmeted Guineafowl; Little Buttonquail; possibly Arabian,
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Black-bellied, and White-bellied bustards; Spotted Thick-knee; Bronze-winged Courser; Collared Pratincole;
Four-banded Sandgrouse; and a fine collection of doves including Blue-spotted and Black-billed wood-doves;
Namaqua Dove; Speckled Pigeon; Red-eyed, African Mourning, Vinaceous, African Collared, European Turtle,
and Laughing doves; Senegal Parrot; Great Spotted Cuckoo; Senegal Cuckoo; African Palm and Common
swifts; Blue-naped Mousebird; Striped Kingfisher; Little Bee-eater; European Roller; Black Wood-Hoopoe;
Abysinnian Ground-Hornbill; African Gray Hornbill; Bearded Barbet; Fine-spotted and brown-backed
woodpeckers; Sun Lark; Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark; Preuss’s Cliff Swallow; Red-chested Swallow; Plainbacked Pipit; Rufous and Black scrub-robins; Northern and Black-eared wheatears; Northern Anteater Chat;
possibly Cliff Chat; Olivaceous Warbler; Winding Cisticola; Cricket Warbler; Green-backed Carmaroptera;
Senegal Eremomela; Northern Crombec; Pale Flycatcher; Senegal Batis; Brown Babbler; Senar Penduline Tit;
Scarlet-chested Sunbird; Woodchat and Yellow-billed shrikes; Black-crowned Tchagra; Northern Puffback;
Brubru; White Helmet-shrike; Fork-tailed Drongo; Piapiac; Greater Blue-eared, Long-tailed, and Chestnutbellied starlings; Sudan Golden Sparrow; Speckle-fronted Weaver; African Masked Weaver; Village Weaver;
Northern Red Bishop; Green-winged and Red-winged pytilias; Bar-breasted Firefinch; Lavendar, Orangecheeked, and Black-rumped waxbills; Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu; African Quailfinch; Cut-throat Finch; several
indigobirds; Sahel Paradise Whydah; White-rumped Seedeater; and Cinnamon-breasted, Rock and Brownrumped buntings.
Djenne is regarded by many as one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in West Africa. It is the oldest
known city in sub-Saharan Africa and is located on the floodplain of the Niger and Bani rivers, 354 kilometers
(220 miles) southwest of Timbuktu. Founded by merchants around 800 A.D. (near the site of an older city
dating from 250 B.C.), Djenne flourished as a meeting place for traders from the desert of Sudan and the
tropical forests of Guinea. The Songhai emperor, Sonni 'Ali, captured Mali in 1468 and developed Djenne into
the country’s most important trading center during the 16th-century. The city thrived because of its direct
connection by river with Timbuktu and from its situation at the head of trade routes leading to the gold and salt
mines. Between 1591 and 1780, Djenne was controlled by Moroccan kings, and during these years its markets
further expanded, featuring products from throughout the vast regions of North and Central Africa. In 1861 the
city was conquered by the Tukulor emperor al-Hajj 'Umar and was then occupied by the French in 1893.
Thereafter, its commercial functions were taken over by the town of Mopti, 90 kilometers to the northeast.
Djenne is now an agricultural trade center, of somewhat diminished importance, with, however, several
beautiful examples of Muslim architecture, including the Grand Mosque. The Grand Mosque is the world’s
largest mud-brick structure and dates back to the mid 13th-century. It is repaired and rebuilt each year after the
rainy season. We will take a tour of the mosque.
In addition to its commercial importance, Djenné, was also known as a center of Islamic learning and
pilgrimage, attracting students and pilgrims from all over West Africa. Its Grand Mosque dominates the large
market square of Djenné. Tradition has it that the first mosque was built in 1240 by the sultan Koi Kunboro,
who converted to Islam and turned his palace into a mosque. Very little is known about the appearance of the
first mosque, but it was considered too sumptuous by Sheikh Amadou, the ruler of Djenné in the early
nineteenth century. The Sheikh built a second mosque in the 1830's and allowed the first one to fall into
disrepair. The present mosque, begun in 1906 and completed in 1907, was designed by the architect Ismaila
Traoré, head of Djenné's guild of masons. At the time, Mali was controlled by the French, who may have
offered some financial and political support for the construction of the mosque and a nearby religious school.
Although the Grand Mosque incorporates architectural elements found in mosques throughout the Islamic
world, it reflects the aesthetics and materials used for centuries by the people of Djenné. Its use of local
materials, such as mud and palm wood, its incorporation of traditional architectural styles, and its adaptation to
the hot climate of West Africa are expressions of its elegant connection to the local environment. Such earthen
architecture, which is found throughout Mali, can last for centuries if regularly maintained. The town built on
an island in the Niger River is also largely built of mud, with thatched roofs giving it a distinctive and very
charismatic appearance. Other features of interest here include the very striking Fulani women with their
spectacular hair-dos and attired with their wealth in the form of huge earrings and spectacular necklaces. Mudcloth decorated with traditional designs also makes very attractive purchases.
The Rivers of West Africa Cruise 2009, Page 14
This is a great place to walk around as the narrow streets provide comfortable shade for exploring.
NIGHT: Hotel Kanaga, Mopti
January 23, Day 6: Mopti to the Dogon Region and back. This morning we will drive southwards into
Dogon country. Again we will depart early to take advantage of the cool of the early morning. Our route today
will take us southwards across a mosaic of Sahelian acacia savannah and degraded range-lands as we make our
way towards the Bandiagara Escarpment. We will make regular stops along the way for anything of interest or
just to take short hikes around the bush to see what we can find. Many of the birds we might encounter are
listed under the previous day.
The Dogon people, with their complex and elaborate culture and distinctive art forms (arguably among the most
fascinating in Africa), in addition to their multi-store homes and granaries seemingly clinging to the sheer rock
face of the Bandiagara, are NOT to be missed. This is undoubtedly a very photogenic area and we will bird
along the escarpment and then rest up in a village during the heat of the day. This will not only give us an
excellent opportunity to view this truly remarkable community but also to see something of the birds of this
rarely, if ever, birded part of the world. Later in the day, we will be treated to a spectacular Dogon mask dance
performance. This is also something NOT to be missed, even for the most ardent birder.
NIGHT: Hotel Kanaga, Mopti
January 24, 25, Days 7, 8: Mopti to Segou and back to Bamako. We will spend these next two days birding
and sightseeing back to Bamako. We’ll begin by departing Mopti for the town of Segou, built on the banks of
the Niger River. Segou is of historical significance as it was the capital of the French administration of the 19thcentury and retains the air of its former colonial glory.
The drive from Segou to Bamako will take a couple of hours. Our arrival in Bamako is timed for mid-day and
lunch. We’ll enjoy a fine meal at San Toro Restaurant, which features a gallery of Malian art. In the afternoon,
we’ll visit the National Museum, with one of the best ethnographic art collections in West Africa.
NIGHTS: January 24 – Hotel L’Auberge, Segou
January 25 – Hotel Sofitel l’Amitie, Bamako
January 26, Day 8: Fly from Bamako to Dakar, Senegal and board the Callisto. Today we will fly from
Bamako to Dakar, Senegal. Upon arrival we will be transferred to the Hotel Sofitel Teranga, where a room has
been reserved in our names. Please refer to the main itinerary for information on the primary program.
TOUR SIZE: VENT has a full-ship allotment of 32 passengers. This means VENT has first opportunity to sell
all available spaces exclusively to VENT customers. If, by a predetermined date, VENT has not sold its entire
allotment, Travel Dynamics retains the right to take back and sell any unused space.
The optional Mali pre-trip will not operate without a minimum of 10 participants.
TOUR LEADERS: David Bishop and Peter Roberts
K. David Bishop “loves his vocation and cannot imagine anything better than exploring wild and beautiful
places in the company of friends and clients” David has spent much of the past 32 years studying the birds and
natural history of the Oriental region and New Guinea. David has also spent a considerable time in Africa
including several extended trips to The Gambia, Senegal, Kenya, Tanazania, Uganda, Malawi, Zimbabwe,
Botswana and Namibia. Once a police officer amid the streets of London's West End, David has emerged as a
highly-regarded, professional leader. David’s enthusiasm and knowledge for all of the places to which he leads
and their birds, wildlife, history and culture is contagious. This, along with his skills in locating wildlife,
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sharing what he sees with others, and conversing with local people in their native language, ensures you the
very finest quality tour. As one client recently commented “VENT has many charismatic leaders but David is
undoubtedly THE most charismatic!” David has undertaken a number of expeditions to survey the birds and
other wildlife of previously unexplored regions throughout New Guinea (largely together with Jared Diamond)
and the Oriental Region. This has resulted in a number of exciting discoveries and rediscoveries including the
incomparable Wallace's Standardwing, a bizarre bird-of-paradise. Some of the results of this work together with
observations gained during the VENT tours he leads have been published in the scientific and semi-popular
literature to which David is a regular contributor. In July 1997, David, together with Brian Coates, published A
Guide to the Birds of Wallacea (Sulawesi, the Moluccas, and Lesser Sundas) and David is currently working on
other book projects. David lives with his wife and daughter (his son currently resides in England) in the
attractive university town of Armidale, NSW, Australia. This is David’s eighth trip to Africa.
Peter Roberts is based in Britain, lives in the north of Scotland, and has been a keen naturalist since childhood
in London. While birds remain his main interest, close contenders include whale-watching, the big game
animals of Africa, snorkeling, and the study of insects. A varied, lifelong career has included conservation and
wildlife-related work from nature reserve management and teaching wildlife field courses to ornithological
survey and research, environmental consultancy, and work for the UK government’s Department of the
Environment. Wardening the bird-banding station on the Welsh island of Bardsey for seven years, and a year
managing the Aldabra Research Station in the Indian Ocean stimulated a passion for seabirds and islands. His
work has taken him to archipelagos worldwide from Antarctica, Falklands, Juan Fernandez, Galapagos, Hawaii,
Seychelles, and São Tomé north to the Shetlands, Pribilofs, and Aleutians. Peter has an MSc in woodland
invertebrate ecology and has published research on various subjects from the feeding ecology of fruit bats to
bird migration, identification, and behavior, and to the ecology of seabirds and Red-billed Choughs. Tourleading for over 30 years has now become virtually full-time and resulted in travel to over 75 countries on all
seven continents, concentrating in particular on the birds, history, and wildlife of Europe and Africa.
FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR RIVERS OF WEST AFRICA: Cabin prices quoted are per person
based on double occupancy. All staterooms are outside cabins with large windows (portholes on Daphne Deck),
air-conditioning, generous storage space, telephone, satellite TV/DVD, mini-refrigerator, and marble bathroom
with shower. Cabins will be reserved on a first-come, first-served basis. Those single travelers who wish to
share their cabin will be charged the single supplement if no cabin mate can be found.
Category D
Category C
Category B
Category A
(Daphne Deck)
(Daphne Deck)
(Leto Deck)
(Leto Deck)
$ 8,695
$ 9,395
$10,195
$10,895
A limited number of singles are available in Categories B & C for an additional charge of $3,695.
PROGRAM INCLUSIONS AND EXCLUSIONS FOR RIVERS OF WEST AFRICA:
Inclusions:
• 1-night stay (Day 2) and day rooms (Day 13) in Dakar at the Hotel Sofitel Teranga; 1-night stay (Day 3)
at the Hotel du Djoudj in the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary; 2-night stay (Days 4 & 5) in St. Louis at
Ranch de Bango.
• 7-night cruise (Days 6-12) aboard the 34-guest yacht Callisto.
• Captain’s welcome and farewell reception and dinner aboard ship
• All meals throughout the cruise including house wine, beer, and soft drinks with lunch and dinner
aboard ship.
• Open bar aboard ship throughout the cruise.
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•
•
Complete program of tours and excursions as described.
Educational program of lecturers by accompanying naturalists and lecturers.
Professional TDI tour staff.
Complete pre-departure materials.
Baggage handling and transfers abroad on the designated program departure and arrival dates.
Port dues and embarkation taxes.
Gratuities to porters, guides, and drivers.
Exclusions:
• International roundtrip airfare.
• Visa and passport fees.
• Luggage and trip cancellation insurance.
• All meals, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages other than those specified above.
• Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone calls, faxes, and e-mail service.
• Gratuities to shipboard personnel.
FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR OPTIONAL MALI PRE-CRUISE EXTENSION: The fee for the
Optional Mali Pre-cruise Extension is $5,250 in double occupancy from Dakar.
The single supplement for the Optional Mali Pre-cruise is $575. You will be charged a single supplement if you
desire single accommodations, or if you prefer to share but have no roommate and we cannot provide one for you.
PLEASE NOTE: The optional Mali pre-trip will not operate without a minimum of 10 participants.
PROGRAM INCLUSIONS AND EXCLUSIONS FOR OPTIONAL MALI PRE-CRUISE EXTENSION:
Inclusions:
• 2-night stay (Days 2 & 8) in Bamako at the Hotel Sofitel l’Amitie; 1-night stay (Day 3) in Timbuktu at
Hotel Colombe; 3-night stay (Days 4, 5, & 6) in Mopti at the Hotel Kanaga; 1-night stay (Day 7) in
Segou at Hotel L’Auberge.
• All meals starting with breakfast on January 20 (Day 3) through lunch on January 26 (Day 8).
• Internal flights in Mali including Bamako to Timbuktu (Day 3); Timbuktu to Mopti (Day 4); Bamako to
Dakar (Day 8).
• Complete program of tours and excursions as outlined above.
• TDI representative to handle logistics.
• Baggage handling and transfers abroad on the designated program departure and arrival dates.
• Gratuities to porters, guides, and drivers abroad.
Exclusions:
• International airfare.
• Visa and passport fees.
• Luggage and trip cancellation insurance.
• Dinner on January 19 (Day 2)
• All other meals, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages other than those specified above.
• Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone calls, faxes, and e-mail service.
TOUR REGISTRATION: To register for the Rivers of West Africa, please contact the VENT office. The
deposit for this tour is $1,500 per person. The deposit for the optional Mali pre-cruise extension is $500. If you
prefer to pay your deposit by check, your tour space will be held for 10 days to allow time for the VENT office
to receive your deposit and completed registration form. If you prefer to pay your deposit using a credit card,
The Rivers of West Africa, Page 17
your deposit must be made with MasterCard or Visa at the time of registration. The VENT registration form
should then be completed, signed, and returned to the VENT office. Full payment of all tour and cruise fees are
due 120 days prior to the tour departure date.
CANCELLATON AND REFUNDS: All cancellations, for any reason, must be received in writing and will be
subject to a $400 per person administrative fee. Cancellations from 119 days to 90 days prior to departure are
subject to a 60 percent (60%) cancellation fee of total trip cost per tour participant. Cancellations occurring
within 89 days of departure or non appearance will result in forfeiture of the entire cost of the trip. Any refunds
will be reduced by applicable airline cancellation penalties. No refunds will be made in the event of “no shows”
or cancellations made on the day of sailing. No refunds will be made for any part of the program in which you
choose not to participate. Service fees may apply to deviations and are non-refundable. We strongly
recommend the purchase of trip cancellation insurance and/or travel insurance to protect yourself.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: Application forms for optional coverage for baggage, illness, and
trip cancellation can be obtained through the VENT office. We strongly recommend that you purchase trip
cancellation insurance to protect yourself against losses due to accidents or illness. Check with your insurance
agent regarding coverage you may presently have via other insurance policies that may cover illness during
your trip. Waiver for pre-existing conditions is available, however, stipulations apply, usually requiring
the purchase of the insurance soon after registering. Contact the VENT office prior to registration for
details.
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours is not a participant in the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund.
California law requires certain sellers of travel to have a trust account or bond. This business has a bond
issued by Travelers in the amount of $50,000. CST #2014998-50.
AIR INFORMATION: Victor Emanuel Travel is a full-service travel agency and wholly owned subsidiary
of VENT. Victor Emanuel Travel will be happy to assist you in making air arrangements. Airline tickets carry
restrictions due to the airfare used. You may find that your ticket cannot be reissued or exchanged for another
air carrier or routing. Cancellation penalties and change fees may be assessed for any changes to the ticket.
These charges are solely your responsibility. First- and business-class travel is available on some flights. All
requests for travel assistance (air tickets, additional hotels, etc.) must be received no later than 60 days prior
to departure date. Within 60 days, arrangements must be made on your own.
CONDITIONS: Your trip to West Africa will be a relaxing, yet full travel experience in which birding
activities are supplemented with historical tours and sightseeing. This trip offers a cultural experience in
addition to a birding trip, and potential participants should strongly consider this point before registering.
Our time off the yacht includes walking tours and visits to major historical sites and several important nature
preserves. Physical demands will be easy to moderate. Please bear in mind that land-based pre-cruise
excursions and on-shore excursions during the cruise involve a moderate amount of walking and
standing. It is recommended that you be capable of walking short to moderate distances over beaches and
occasionally rough terrain. We emphasize that nobody will be subjected to physical demands that exceed their
capabilities. All walking will be done at a slow to moderate pace.
For the land-based pre-cruise activities and for lengthier periods on shore during the cruise, we will be in fourwheel-drive vehicles or buses. Opportunities will be available for leisurely beach and village strolls, as well as
optional hikes requiring modest physical activity. Your leaders and expedition staff will be with you at most
times, offering historical, cultural, and natural history interpretation. There are swimming pools at several
hotels.
The Rivers of West Africa Cruise 2009, Page 18
ELECTRIC CURRENT:
The electric current aboard ship and in the countries we will visit is 220 volts (AC). Outlets are designed for
European-style plugs with two round pins; adapter plugs and converters are available on board on a loan basis,
however, to ensure round-the-clock use, you should consider purchasing your own.
LANGUAGE:
MALI: French is the official language and the most widely spoken African language is Bambara (especially
around Bamako), however there are several other languages and dialects.
SENEGAL: French is the official language and the most widely spoken African language is Wolof.
THE GAMBIA: English is the official language and the most widely spoken African language is Mandinka.
About Callisto:
All 17 cabins resemble guest rooms in a fine home—beautifully furnished, comfortably arranged, and complete
with such amenities as large picture windows (portholes on Daphne Deck); twin, double, or queen-size beds;
air-conditioning; ample storage space; telephone; satellite TV/DVD; mini-refrigerator and private bathrooms. A
The yacht’s public areas include an elegant restaurant surrounded by large picture windows; a spacious lounge
and bar; as well as a library, with Internet service, surrounded by windows. The yacht also includes a Jacuzzi,
two broad decks for maximum viewing, and a swimming platform.
Dining:
Callisto’s steward and kitchen staff seek fresh provisions from many ports of call. Guests savor just-caught fish
and perfectly ripened produce from local markets, resulting in menus of classic regional specialties as well as
creative Continental fare. Select regional wines are complimentary with lunch and dinner while open bar
service is available throughout the day. Fresh baked breads and fresh produce are staples of every meal. Meals
are served at a single, unassigned seating in the elegantly-styled dining room, surrounded by large picture
windows. Weather permitting, guests may also dine al fresco on the broad sun decks.
Ship Specifications:
Length: 165 ft. | Beam: 27.7 ft. | Draft: 10 ft. | Gross Tonnage: 499 | Main Engines: Mannheim 2x840
Deck Plan:
The Rivers of West Africa, Page 19
D - Outside cabins on Daphne Deck with portholes (cabins #16 and 19)
$ 8,695
C - Outside cabins on Daphne Deck with portholes (cabins #12, 14, 15 and 17)
$ 9,395
B - Outside cabins on Leto Deck with picture window (cabins #1, 2, 5, 7, 8 and 9)
$10,195
A - Outside cabins on Leto Deck with two picture windows (cabins #3, 4, 6, 10 and 11)
$10,895
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: A limited number of singles are available in Categories B & C for an additional
charge of $3,695.
CLIMATE & WEATHER: Senegal and The Gambia will likely be dry and warm-to-hot, with average daily
maximum temperatures in the mid 70s (°F) along the coast, and into the 80s inland and farther up the Gambia
River. Those participating in the optional Mali pre-cruise extension will likely encounter temperatures into the
upper 80s or even low 90s. There is very little chance of rain. We may encounter some windy days in Mali,
occasionally accompanied by blowing sand.
CLOTHING: As this trip combines birding field trips with interpretive walking tours and resort-style cruising,
you will want to pack a mix of clothing that prepares you for all activities. The following items are
recommended:
• Shoes: There will likely be opportunities for some good hikes, so a pair of solid walking/hiking boots
is strongly recommended as these will protect your feet from sharp, spikey thorns and seeds; you may
prefer sandals and/or tennis shoes for walking tours and time on board the ship; dress shoes will be
appropriate for some evenings.
• Pants and Shorts: A couple pairs of pants and shorts each are recommended. Many people prefer
lightweight pants made of cotton or other material, but denim, though not as comfortable, is certainly
acceptable. Shorts will be desirable for warmer times of day and when cruising.
• Field Clothing: Outdoor stores such as Cabela’s and REI carry field clothing that many birders find
appealing. Pants and long- and short-sleeved shirts made of lightweight, yet durable materials with
multiple pockets and ventilated seams are popular and more reasonably priced than in the past. Easily
washable, quick-drying clothes are useful.
• Shirts: Several t-shirts, (long and short-sleeved), in addition to other comfortable styles suitable for
warm weather.
• Bathing Suit
• Hat: A hat for protection from the sun is essential!
• Evening Wear: The atmosphere aboard Callisto is casual, but women and men should wear Smart
Casual attire for the few dressier occasions. For women this includes casual dresses or skirt/slacks
ensembles. For men this includes khakis/slacks and open-collared shirts. Men may choose to wear a
sports jacket for dressier evenings. The degree of dress is also in accordance with your personal
preference.
• Sweaters and Coats: Warm weather will be the rule on this trip, but a sweater or warm pull-over will
come in handy some mornings and evenings.
BAGGAGE: The airlines now strictly enforce baggage regulations. Excess baggage charges, which can be
substantial, are the personal responsibility of each participant. Some airlines, including Delta, American, and
Lufthansa, have significantly lowered their weight allowances for checked and carry-on baggage, some to as
little as 50 lbs per bag. Please consult your airline to find out specific weight restrictions.
As a precaution against lost luggage, we suggest that you pack a change of clothes, your optics and other
valuables, medication, toiletries, and important travel documents, and any other essentials in your carry-on bag.
The Rivers of West Africa Cruise 2009, Page 20
LAUNDRY SERVICE: Limited laundry services are available aboard ship. Laundry is handled by the crew
staff. Charges are posted on the ship.
EQUIPMENT: One of the most important aspects of having an enjoyable travel experience is being prepared
with proper equipment. The following items are recommended. A quality pair of binoculars is essential. Your
tour leaders will have their personal spotting scopes available for group use, but you may bring your own if you
prefer. A scope will be especially useful on the pre-cruise portion of the program in Senegal; when we are on
shore in The Gambia; as well as for birding excursions on the optional Mali pre-trip. This trip will offer many
excellent photographic opportunities, so be sure to bring a camera—and possibly a video camera. Please pack
plenty of film (non-digital) or flash-card space (digital), and spare batteries as these can be difficult to find and
costly to purchase.
Other typical, but important, travel items include personal medications, travel alarm clock, sunscreen and lip
balm, notebook and pen, insect repellent, sunglasses, and a flashlight. A backpack to carry extra clothing, field
guides, personal items, etc. is essential.
DOCUMENTS:
PASSPORTS
A valid passport is required for entry into all the countries listed in this program. Please check the expiration
date on your passport. If it is not valid for at least six months after your trip return date, you will need to get it
renewed. You will also want to make sure that you have at least two blank pages in your passport for stamps.
If you need a passport, you should get it well in advance of your trip departure date. Allow four to six weeks to
obtain a passport. For additional fees, a passport can be issued on an expedited basis. In the United States this
can be done at the nearest passport office, most post offices, or the county clerk’s office. You may also visit
www.state.gove/travel/ for information on how to get or renew a passport.
As a safety measure, photocopy the first two pages of your passport. Keep the photocopies in a safe place, so if
your passport is lost you will have proof of identification. Your passport should be signed and easily available
at all times. You will need it for check-in at the airport on your first day of departure, so do not pack it in your
checked luggage.
On board ship, it is customary for the purser to hold all passports for clearance with Customs and Immigration
authorities. Your passport will be collected prior to or upon embarkation, and returned upon disembarkation.
Your passport will be returned to you upon request at any time during the cruise.
VISAS
SENEGAL – Tourist visas are NOT required for citizens of the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. if the visit to this
country does not exceed 90 days. Visas ARE required for citizens of Australia. Citizens of all other countries
should check with the appropriate embassy or consulate. Please allow ample time for obtaining your visa.
THE GAMBIA – Tourist visas are NOT required for citizens of the U.K. or Australia if the visit to this
country does not exceed 90 days. Visas ARE required for citizens of the U.S. and Canada. Citizens of all other
countries should check with the appropriate embassy or consulate. Please allow ample time for obtaining your
visa.
MALI – Tourist visas ARE required for all citizens of the U.S., Canada, the U.K., and Australia. Citizens of all
other countries should check with the appropriate embassy or consulate. Please allow ample time for obtaining
your visa.
The Rivers of West Africa, Page 21
You can obtain the necessary visas for this program by contacting the appropriate contact or embassy directly
or by using a visa service. We currently recommend Pinnacle Travel Document Systems, or PTDS, based on
its record of being fast, efficient, and reliable. Please call PTDS at 888-838-4867, or you may also directly
email their sales associate who works with VENT—Steve LeTellier, [email protected], for important
instructions and forms. Like all visa service providers, PTDS charges processing and delivery fees for its
services.
Please note the issuance of a visa or passport is entirely at the discretion of the issuing authority, and each
country’s immigration officials make the final entry decision even when valid visas are held. VENT and/or
PTDS make no guarantees that any issuing authority will issue any document in a timely manner; PTDS’
service fees are for taking reasonable actions to foster issuance. Non-refundable tickets or reservations should
not be purchased until all visas and passports are secured. By sending application to PTDS for processing, you
accept the above and specifically that neither PTDS nor VENT is liable for the action or inaction of any
government body or for the performance of Federal Express or any other third party delivery company and the
PTDS’ liability is strictly limited to the replacement of documents in PTDS’ care and control.
CURRENCY & MONEY MATTERS: Your trip to West Africa includes most necessary expenses, including
all meals. While U.S. dollars MIGHT be accepted in heavily visited tourist areas, it is always convenient to
have a supply of local currency for such items as taxi rides; gifts; non-meal-time and off ship refreshments;
laundry tips; meals on your own; gratuities for the ship’s staff and crew; and any personal items. Please note
that Euros are more readily accepted in Mali and Senegal than U.S. dollars.
Upon embarkation, a shipboard account will be opened for your convenience. The U.S. dollar is the official
currency aboard ship. U.S. travelers’ checks are also recommended for meeting expenses during the cruise.
Note that it may not always be possible to make change for travelers’ checks and cash in large denominations;
the purser would appreciate the use of smaller denominations for settlement of your shipboard account. The
ship does accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards for payment of your shipboard account.
There is no facility on board for exchanging U.S. dollars into local currency. It is best to acquire local currency
before leaving your home country.
The official currency of Senegal is the CFA Franc BCEAO (XOF). As of February 22, 2008, the conversion
rate is 1 USD = 442.436; 1 XOF = .00226021 USD
The official currency of The Gambia is the Gambia Dalasi (GMD). As of February 22, 2008, the conversion
rate is 1 USD = 22.1005 GMD; 1 GMD = .0452478 USD
The official currency of Mali is the CFA Franc BCEAO (XOF). As of February 22, 2008, the conversion rate is
1 USD = 442.436; 1 XOF = .00226021 USD.
You can check the latest currency conversion rate by visiting XE.com Full Universal Currency Converter at:
http://www.xe.com/ucc/full.php.
Special Circumstances:
MALI
Currency exchange facilities in Mali are often slow and post out-of-date rates. Credit cards are accepted only at
major hotels and select restaurants, and cash advances on credit cards are available only from the BMCD Bank
in Bamako, which accepts only Visa for this service.
The Rivers of West Africa Cruise 2009, Page 22
SENEGAL
Travelers can get cash through international credit cards, including MasterCard, Visa, and American Express,
by presenting their credit card at a local financial institution sponsoring their card, or at a currency exchange
bureau.
THE GAMBIA
The Gambia is a cash economy, and credit cards are accepted only at major hotels and grocery stores and a
handful of upscale restaurants. The Gambia dalasi is a fully convertible currency but is not available outside the
country; visitors may exchange currency at banks and exchange bureaus. ATMs are rare and they frequently
malfunction. The U.S. Embassy in Banjul discourages the use of credit cards, personal checks, and ATMs due
to reports of fraud. U.S. dollars are readily accepted at the places we visit in the Gambia.
HEALTH & SAFETY:
MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS:
If there is any doubt as to your physical fitness to travel, consultation should be sought with your doctor bearing
in mind the following points:
1. All excursions involve a fair amount of standing and quite a bit of walking—often over rough or
wet ground and sometimes uphill. Expect several long days of touring in Mali, from 8-11 hours in
duration. Mobility is essential for climbing in and out of small local boats used for disembarkation at
several ports of call during the cruise.
2. Temperatures in West Africa are warm throughout the year. You must be prepared to spend several
hours outdoors in temperatures that may reach into the 90s. The low humidity in the region means that
dust may pose problems for people with respiratory conditions.
Participants should, therefore, be active and in a good state of health in order to participate fully in a cruise. If
you need any form of assistance or are physically disabled, you must be accompanied by a companion who will
take full responsibility for any assistance needed during the cruise, at embarkation and disembarkation, on shore
excursions, and in the event of an emergency. Any disabilities, required medical apparatus or special
medical needs must be brought to Travel Dynamics International’s attention, in writing, prior to
booking. Please note that Callisto does not have handicapped facilities or an elevator. The ship’s operator
reserves the right to decline anyone who fails to furnish this information and whose condition, in their opinion,
may affect the health or safety of other passengers.
FOOD AND WATER:
All raw food is subject to contamination. Particularly in areas where hygiene and sanitation are inadequate, the
travelers should avoid salads, uncooked vegetables, and unpasteurized milk and milk products such as cheese,
and eat only food that has been cooked and is still hot or fruit that has been peeled by the traveler personally.
Cooked food that has been allowed to stand for several hours at ambient temperature can provide a fertile
medium for bacterial growth, so if you sample local delicacies from a street vendor, be sure that the food is
cooked in front of you.
Drink only bottled or boiled water and canned or bottled beverages, and avoid drinks with ice. If a can or bottle
has been in ice, be sure to dry it off before drinking directly from the container. Never drink from rain or well
water, since this is likely to contain illness-causing bacteria.
The Rivers of West Africa, Page 23
REQUIRED IMMUNIZATIONS:
YELLOW FEVER VACCINATION
All travelers to Mali and The Gambia, regardless of nationality, are required to show evidence of yellow fever
vaccination in order to obtain entry documents. For this purpose, you will need to obtain a valid International
Certificate of Vaccination. A yellow fever vaccination must be given at an official yellow fever vaccination
center as designated by your state’s health department or the Division of Global Migration and Quarantine of
the Centers For Disease Control. The facility which administers the vaccine must also validate the Certificate,
and it must be signed by a licensed physician. Contact your state health department for information about
yellow fever vaccinations in your area, or speak with your doctor.
Yellow fever is a viral disease transmitted between humans by a mosquito. It is a very rare cause of illness in
travelers, in part because of the precautions taken by affected countries. The yellow fever vaccine is a live virus
vaccine which has been in use for several decades. A single dose confers immunity for ten years or more if you
are not continually exposed. Adults and children over nine months can take this vaccine. The vaccine is not
recommended for certain types of travelers, including pregnant women, persons hypersensitive to eggs, or
persons suffering from a condition related to HIV/AIDS. Your doctor can help you make the best decision
about the vaccine.
For more information, please see the website of the Centers for Disease Control at www.cdc.gov. Information
relevant to yellow fever can be found at: www.cdc.gov/travel/vaccinations/cert-requirements2.htm and at
www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/yellowfever/.
Please note that you will not be able to obtain your visa for entry into Mali without the proper immunization
certificate or waiver. Because pre-trip participants will be arriving in Senegal from another sub-Saharan
country, travelers may be asked to show proof of yellow fever vaccination upon arrival in Dakar.
RECOMMENDED IMMUNIZATIONS:
The yellow fever vaccine, explained above, is the only immunization required for entry into the countries on
our itinerary. However, the Centers for Disease Control strongly recommend that travellers to the destinations
on our itinerary be vaccinated against typhoid and meningitis. Please see the “Travelers’ Health” section of the
CDC website (www.cdc.gov/travel.htm) for more information on the vaccines, and consult your doctor to
determine which vaccines are best for you.
TYPHOID VACCINATION
Typhoid is caused by the bacteria Salmonella typhi and is common in the developing world, where hand
washing is less frequent and sanitation and water systems are less advanced. Because the vaccine is not fully
effective, it is important to make careful decisions about food and water while traveling. Please note that,
depending on which method you choose, you will need to complete your vaccination one to two weeks prior to
departure.
MENINGITIS VACCINATION
Meningitis is an infection of the fluid of a person's spinal cord and the fluid that surrounds the brain, and may
be caused by a virus or bacteria. Meningitis may be spread through close contact with an affected person, but it
is less contagious than the common cold. Vaccination is advised for travelers to countries recognized as having
epidemic meningococcal disease caused by a vaccine-preventable serogroup (i.e., A, C, Y, and/or W-135)
during December through June. The vaccine typically takes 7-10 days to become effective against the bacteria
that cause meningitis.
MALARIA
Malaria is a serious risk to travelers to the countries on our itinerary. The strains of malaria present in Mali,
Senegal, and the Gambia include the chloroquine-resistant P. falciparum malaria. To reduce the risk of
contracting this disease, travelers are strongly urged to take one of the following antimalarial drugs (brand
names in parentheses): mefloquine (Lariam), doxycycline, or atovaquone/proguanil (Malarone). Some travelers
The Rivers of West Africa Cruise 2009, Page 24
may experience serious side effects from antimalarial drugs; consult with your physician to determine the best
preventative medication.
While traveling, you can take a number of simple precautions against mosquito bites. Wear long-sleeved shirts,
long pants, and a hat, particularly between dusk and dawn. Keep windows closed while you sleep, and make
sure that your insect repellant contains DEET.
The Centers for Disease Control recommends that travelers who become ill with fever or flu-like symptoms
during their travels or up to a year after their trip to a malaria-risk area contact their doctors immediately, and
share with them their travel history.
For more information on malaria risk and prevention, visit: www.cdc.gov/malaria/faq.htm.
GENERAL HEALTH RECOMMENDATIONS:
It is highly recommended that you update routine vaccinations against HEPATITIS A & B, TETANUS,
and MEASLES. Bring an up-to-date record of your allergies or chronic medical problems so that emergency
treatment, if necessary, can be carried out without endangering your health. Your physician can prepare a
summary record for you. You should also carry the telephone number of your physician’s 24-hour answering
service.
Participants who travel with large quantities of medicine may be required to show documentation when passing
through U.S. or foreign customs. It is advisable to carry a letter on your physician’s letterhead stating:
1. The full name of the drug(s), dosage per day, and quantity necessary for the period away from
home.
2. The condition for which it is prescribed
3. That the medication is required for your well-being
We recommend that all medication be in its original container with the pharmacist’s label attached and packed
in your hand luggage. If you require special medications, we suggest that you bring along an adequate supply,
as the ship does not have a medical staff. The ship is equipped, however, with excellent radio and marine and
satellite telephone facilities, and is never more than a few miles from shore so that aid in an emergency can be
called.
If you are taking prescription medication or over-the-counter medicine, be sure to bring an ample supply that
will allow you to get through the trip safely. You should also bring your own supplies of non-prescription
medication, pain relief, and motion sickness tablets if you feel you may need them. Remember to pack all
medication in your carry-on baggage, preferably in original containers or packaging. As airline baggage
restrictions can change without warning, please check with your airline for procedures for packing
medication.
Although we make every effort to provide the most recent information on travelers’ health recommendations, it
is advisable to check with the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) prior to your departure to be
certain that there have been no changes to their recommendations. The CDC toll-free Fax Information Service
can be reached at (888) 232-3299; the CDC Travelers’ Information Line number is (877) FYI-TRIP. You can
access the CDC website at www.cdc.gov. Canadian citizens may call the Health Canada FAXline at (613) 9413900. Information is also available on the website of the Public Health Agency of Canada at http://www.phacaspc.gc.ca/new_e.html (click on “Travel Health”).
In addition to your physician, a good source of general health information for travelers is the United States
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in Atlanta. The CDC operates a 24-hour recorded Travelers’
Information Line 877-FYI-TRIP (394-8747) or you can check their website at www.cdc.gov/travel. Canadian
citizens should check the website of the Public Health Agency of Canada: www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/new_e.html
(click on travel health).
The Rivers of West Africa, Page 25
SUGGESTED READING: Our website at www.ventbird.com offers an online store that carries a wide variety
of items for birding and nature lovers including over 6,000 books. A portion of the sales from our store benefits
the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. You might also want to visit such other online stores as www.amazon.com,
www.andrewisles.com/AndrewIsles/index.cfm , or for those out-of-print and hard-to-find titles,
www.abebooks.com or www.buteobooks.com, which specializes in ornithology books.
Birds:
Borrow, Nic and Ron Demey. Birds of Western Africa. London. Christopher Helm. 2006. This brand new book
is the most important field guide for your trip to West Africa.
The soft-back production is much more portable than the hardback version and is ideal to take with you in the
field. This edition has updated colour distribution maps and some new images. Covers all 1285 species found
in the region. 512 pages.
Barlow, Clive and Tim Wacher. Field Guide to Birds of The Gambia and Senegal. London. Christopher Helm.
2005.
The only specific guide to the birds of this area. Over 600 species are described with almost 570 species
illustrated on 48 colour plates. The species not illustrated in colour are vagrants.
Mammals:
Kingdon, Jonathan. The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals. London: Academic Press, Harcourt Brace
and company, 1997.
The most recent, complete and informative guide to African mammals; full of information and delightful
illustrations.
Kingdon, Jonathan. The Kingdon Pocket Guide to African Mammals. London: Christopher Helm, 2004.
A much smaller, lighter pocket version of the excellent field guide above, but still with excellent information
and the same illustrations. Suggested if you are on a mission to reduce weight!
Estes, Richard Despard. The Behavior Guide to African Mammals. Berkeley: University of California Press,
1991.
A splendidly detailed book with masses of information on the ecology of all the wonderful large mammals we
shall see. (Your tour leader will carry a copy for you to browse on tour.)
Reptiles:
Spawls, S., Howells, K. Drewes, R. & J. Ashe A Field Guide To The Reptiles Of East Africa. 2002. Academic
Press.
A super, comprehensive, though large and heavy guide to reptiles. (A pocket-sized version was due to be
published in 2006).
Cansdale, George. Reptiles of West Africa. London. Penguin. 1955.
Very out of date and generally difficult to obtain. However, this tome, in combination with the above field
guide should help identify many of the reptiles we encounter in Mali, Senegal and The Gambia.
General Resources: There is a wealth of material available for this region. Suggested good "general" reading
about Africa, the wildlife, history and former lifestyles includes:
The Rivers of West Africa Cruise 2009, Page 26
Matthiessen, P. African Silences. New York. Random House. 1991.
Newton, Alex and David Else. West Africa: A Lonely Planet Travel Survival Kit. Hawthorn, Australia. Lonely
Planet Publications.
TIPPING: Tipping (restaurants, porters, drivers, and local guides) is included on VENT tours. However,
gratuities for shipboard personnel are not included in your tour fee. While such gratuities are customary
practice aboard all ships, gratuities are a personal decision and the amount extended should be based on the
quality and manner of the service you receive.
Travel Dynamics generally recommends a guideline of $14.00 per passenger per day. Gratuities are
traditionally given at the end of the voyage in either cash or travelers’ checks. Further guidelines will be given
by cruise staff at the end of the voyage. Note: To avoid confusion, tips placed in the general fund will be
distributed to the ship’s crew, which generally consists of housekeeping, dining room service, maintenance
workers, and deckhands. The Cruise Director is NOT considered part of the main crew. If you decide to tip the
Cruise Director, you should hand it to him/her directly.
If you feel one or all of your VENT leaders or any local guide has provided exceptional service, it is entirely
appropriate to tip. We emphasize that such tips are not expected and are entirely optional.
RESPONSIBILITY: Victor Emanuel Nature Tours, Inc. (VENT) and/or its Agents act only as agents for the
passenger in regard to travel, whether by railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, or airplane and assume no
liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity which may be occasioned either by reason of
defect in any vehicle or for any reason whatsoever, or through the acts or default of any company or person
engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour. VENT and its agents can
accept no responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services,
sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, or other causes. All such losses or expenses will have to be borne by
the passenger, as tour rates provide for arrangements only for the time stated. The right is reserved to substitute
hotels of similar category for those indicated and to make any changes in the itinerary where deemed necessary
or caused by changes in air schedules. The right is reserved to cancel any tour prior to departure, in which case
full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. The right is reserved to substitute leaders on any
tour. Where this is necessary, notification will be given to tour members. No refund will be made for any
unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made in sufficient time to avoid penalties. The prices of the
tours are based on tariffs and exchange rates in effect February 29, 2008, and are subject to adjustment in the
event of any change therein. The right is reserved to decline to accept or to retain any person as a member of
any tour.
Baggage is at owner's risk entirely. The airlines concerned and their agents and affiliates are not to be held
responsible for any act, omission, or event during the time passengers are not on board their aircraft. The
passenger ticket in use by said airlines, when issued, shall constitute the sole contract between the airlines and
the purchaser of these tickets and/or passenger. The services of any I.A.T.A.N. carrier may be used for these
tours, and transportation within the United States may be provided by any member carrier of the Airline
Reporting Corporation.