Area D
1
2
12
11
presents
3
9
4
10
5
6
15
a not so little
bouldering guide
7
14 13
8
of
1. Escape the Weekend
V1
Dynamic moves on slopey jugs.
9. Project
V
Overhanging face above death slot.
F R
F R
2. Project
V11?
Start low on incut jugs. Pull reachy moves up steep face
to a right top out.
F R
3. Project
V9?
Start on sloping ledge. Climb up sidepulls to top.
10. Project
V
F R
11. Project
V
Traverse right on lip. Highball.
12. Project
V
Climb right arete on jugs.
Easy slab.
R
F R
V7
Start under roof at lower boulder move out to lip holds
and then crank to the top.
F R
6. Project
easy
Sloping rail to top.
13. Project
V
F R
14. Project
V
Face.
F R
easy
Dirty sloping lip traverse.
15. Project
Steep arete.
F R
V1
Start on diagonal rail. Crank to jug and then to top.
Ahwahnee Boulders
Mossy slab.
F R
7. Project
Cathedral Boulders
F R
easy
5. Unnamed
Camp IV
Traverse left on lip.
F R
4. Project
8. T-Rex
Yosemite
F R
F R
V
Tendons Give
Blue Suede Shoes
Midnight Lightning
The Force
Battle of The Bulge
Dominator
Cocaine Corner
King Cobra
Bachar Cracker
Shiver Me Timbers
Blockhead
Bruce Lee
Bear Hug Mantle
Kauk Face
Hammerhead
Elegant Gypsy
Thriller
The Hexcentric
The Octagon
"X"
The King
Get It Up
And much more of kick ass bouldering
24
Yosemite, California
Yosemite was known as the climbing Mecca in the 80s and is still a
choice destination for climbers worldwide. Bouldering in Camp IV
has a lot of history too, with problems like Ron Kauk's Midnight
Lightning or The Dominator, still one of the hardest in the country.
Sacramento
How to get there: Yosemite Park is really famous and with any
California map, getting to the park shouldn't be a problem. Once in the
park take the road to Yosemite Village. Try not to faint when you see El
Cap. Inside the park some of the roads are one way so you have to go to the
village and then follow the directions to exit the park. Camp IV is to your
right just before the road becomes a one way. The Entrance Fee is $5 a day or $40 a
year. It's a good idea to get a Golden Eagle Pass ($65) instead, this will give you access to all
National Parks and a few State Parks.
When: The season starts in April. That's a good time to visit. Spring and fall are the best, not too
warm and not too busy.
Eat: There is a small grocery store in the Village, but it's expensive. The best is to bring your
food but DON'T LEAVE ANY FOOD IN THE CAR, even "just for a night". Yosemite bears are
as smart and alert (so are the rangers) and they will break into your car. Use bear boxes that
you'll find everywhere in the park. If you have cooked a lot in your car and there is a strong
smell, leave an open container of bleach in the car. Don't leave any box that looks like it may
contain food. It has been said that a bear has broken into a car just to bite into oil pints. A
window is already expensive to repair but bears can even break your door.
Sleep: The option number one is Camp IV, which is a walk-in campground with restrooms and
drinking water. Five bucks a night, per person. No overnight parking. Limit of 7 days in a
summer and 30 days overall in a year. The campground gets full quickly, especially on
weekends. They are alternatives, ask around...
Showers in Curry Village. Laundry in Housekeeping Camp.
About the bouldering and this guide: It is important to notice the absence of the exposure
ratings (R and X) in this guidebook (except for the Awhawnee Boulders which was done by
Matt Wilder). Use your own judgment and don't try something if it looks too hard and
dangerous. Bouldering is dangerous. We are not responsible for any injuries... You know the
rest.
The best bouldering is definitely found around Camp IV. Still, the two other areas are worth
checking and are way less crowded. Good warm up can be found at Swan Slabs, two minutes
from Camp IV. From Thriller area, walk on the trail in direction of the village. You can't miss it.
You'll find problems/solos from 5.0 to V5. The topo of this area was not included in this book.
Guidebook : Yosemite Bouldering Guide by Don Reid.
2
23
3
5
6
2
Climbing Shop
Nice lounge
Showers
Buffet
Curry Village
(page 18)
7
F R
V10
SDS - Start with low jugs, go straight up to a sidepull and a sharp
crimp then go straight up.
F R
3. Pugilist
V10
SDS - Pull up steep prow to face right.
F R
4. Unnamed
V4R
Start standing. Climb up arete using slopey sidepulls. Finish on
mossy slab.
F R
5. Project
hard
Climb up face somehow.
F R
6. Vague Crack
V2
Start on undercling and climb straight up the arete.
F R
7. Unnamed
5.6
Slab.
5.8
Mantel at incut ledge.
11. Project
V
Dirty face.
F R
12. Silly Roof
V7
SDS - Start on jugs in deep. Climb out the roof and mantel on
sloping lip.
F R
13. Hamburger Helper
Camp IV
V1R
Sit down start with hands on big rail. Climb straight up the face.
F R
14. Ketchup Machine
V3R
Start same as Hamburger Helper. Move left to edges halfway up the
face. Top out to the left.
F R
15. Project
V10?
Start standing on good edges. Climb up blank, concave face to
top jug.
F R
16. Unnamed
140
2. Cilley
F R
10. Unnamed
El Capitan
V0+
Start low on left arete. Traverse up and right on sloping holds to
jugs.
F R
overview
F R
1. Unnamed
Yosemite Valley
8
9
Center of the Universe
(page 4)
1
10
(page 14)
17
18
Cathedral Boulders
4
Small Store
Mountain Lounge
Cafeteria
Buffet
16
19
Yosemite Lounge
12
Housekeeping
(laundromat)
Library
11
Village Store
Library
Yosemite Village
15
14
13
Ahwahnee Boulders
Area C
V3
Climb right arete from sit start.
F R
V0-
F R
19. Project
SDS - Climb dirty left arete.
V
to Fresno
V8
Traverse boulder from right to left.
to Merced
18. Myles Traverse
120
F R
V3
Start sitting at right end of sloping rail. Traverse up and left. Mantel
at incut ledge.
22
41
V3
Do first half of traverse and then mantel in the midde.
F R
9. Unnamed
F R
17. Unnamed
SDS - Pull up the face.
to Sonora
8. Unnamed
3
Camp IV
Area B
Without any doubt, the best bouldering in Yosemite. The granite around Camp IV is really
polished and a good footwork is essential. From anywhere in Camp IV, just walk into the forest
and you'll get to the boulders. Keep walking after Thriller and you'll get to Swan Slabs, a good
place to warm up.
F R
1. Project
V7?
Traverse right on sloping lip.
F R
2. Chokin' it
V5
Start standing with pinch and crimp. Go straight up.
overview
Titanic Goodrich
(page 4)
Boulder
Wine Boulder
V9
SDS - Start in between boulders, on two sloping holds. Move up to
good holds then reach out left to the arete. Finish straight up.
F R
Energy
Boulder
4. Project
(page 12)
5. Project
V
Climb straight up face from start of Funky Chicken.
Thriller
(page 13)
V
Climb up arete from standing start.
F R
6. Unnamed
(page 5)
5.5
Start standing at right leaning dihedral.
V2
SDS - Climb up slopey holds to top.
YOSAR
campsite
Columbia
Boulder
Blockhead
Falls Trail
(page 9)
(pages 10,11)
5.9
9. Project
V2
Start on left side of the boulder on good holds. Traverse lip right
and around the corner to top.
F R
23. Women From Venus
V3
Start low on sloping diagonal rail. Dyno up and mantel.
24. Project
easy
Climb the short face.
25. Syndrome
V3
Start sitting with jug and crimp. Move up arete to slab finish.
F R
F R
V
Start right of low boulder. Move up and left.
Parking
Camping
22. Men From Mars
Climb arete from standing start.
(page 8)
V2 R
Step over gap to opposing sidepulls. Dyno to top.
F R
F R
8. Unnamed
F R
21. Across the Abyss
F R
F R
7. Munch 'n' Live
V0
Start low on big flat edge.
F R
F R
(pages 6,7)
V8 R
Start on crimps on face. Move up to sloping rail and then to sloping
dish. Finish to your right. Var : Sports Action Direct - V6 Start low
with one hand on each side of the arete. Move up to sloping rail then
up to top sloping dish. Finish left.
F R
20. Unnamed
F R
3. Funky Chicken
F R
19. Sports Action
26. Project
V7?
Left traverse of boulder finishing at point.
F R
F R
10. Munchkin Lunge
V6
27. Unnamed
5.8
Climb arete left of tree.
SDS - Start on crimp and sidepull. Dyno to top.
F R
F R
11. Dirty Dave
5.9
Climb face.
F R
Titanic
12. Silent Spotter
V6 R
Start standing. Climb up and left using arete and face holds.
F R
F R
1. The Bulge Traverse
V8
13. Beached Whale
5
4
Start on jugs, just left of the big tree and traverse right to finish in
Titanic. Also a SDS (V?) with a wide crimp.
F R
2. Battle of the Bulge
14. Joss
V6
V6
Start on a pointed flake, go to a high right-facing crimp then straight
up.
F R
4. Unnamed
V1
Start on a sloper and mantle.
V8
5. Unnamed
V4
SDS - Start low undercling and the left-facing ramp, go high on the
ramp then left to climb the arete.
3
2
V5
Start standing with sloping holds and bad feet. Move up right to good
crimp then traverse right to Beached Whale mantel.
F R
1
16. Unnamed
V1
Start on rail. Go up face and left.
17. Juice Name
V5
Start sitting with right hand on arete and left on low rail. Dyno up
and mantel to the right.
F R
30. Unnamed
V1
Start on jug. Climb left arete.
F R
31. Project
V
Climb mossy arete.
Start in Juice Man. Go straight up.
32. Project
V1
hard
Climb the face on slopey blocks.
F R
33. The Bulldog Problem
V4
Start sitting with slopey holds. Move up to the obvious sidepull and
then top out up left.
F R
34. Project
V5
Start sitting in left vertical slot. Traverse right all the way to Beached
Whale. Var : top out at the tree (V3).
F R
18. Unnamed
4
29. Smile For The Green...
F R
F R
15. Squeeze
F R
F R
V6
Start on Smile for the Green Dragon and traverse sloping lip to
mantel out left.
F R
Start on crimps on overhanging face. Climb up and slightly left.
Start on good holds and climb the bulge with 2 left-facing holds.
Also a SDS (V?) on slopers then go right to the stand up start.
F R
3. Titanic
V6
SDS - Start at right side of boulder. Traverse left. Mantel just left
of the fin.
F R
28. Blonde Ambition
V11?
Start in the Bulldog Problem. Stay below sidepull and jugs and
traverse left around corner and along the sloping lip. Mantel at left
end.
F R
35. Project
V
Climb face with gastons and sidepulls.
21
Area B
Goodrich Boulder
F R
1. Unknown
easy
Start just right of a small boulder, jump to slopers then up to jugs.
24
26 25
2. Unknown
21
3. Unknown
12
19
13
18 17
16
hard
4. Jump Mantle
11
10
14
5.9
5.8
5
V4
6
Jump to the really high lip (if you can) and mantle.
5. Big Grab Mantle
V2
Start with a high jug and pull to the lip.
log
9
10
F R
15
7,8
Goodrich
Boulder
1,2
3
4
Start with 2 good small crimps above your head and throw to the
slopey lip.
F R
20
17
11
F R
32
31
33
6. Pinch Arete
7
8
9
35
34
hard
Start right hand with a left-facing crimp and left hand on a bad
slopey edge and throw to the start of #1.
F R
23
22
30
8
F R
V1
Start with slopers and go to a pinch on the arete.
6
F R
7. Tendons Give
27
4
5
12
Pratt
Boulder
2
1
15
V4
SDS - Start at the end of the overhanging face and traverse right to
top out on good shelfs over another boulder.
F R
3
16
8. Tendons Thaw
14
V7
13
SDS - Climb Tendons Give but instead of topping out, keep
traversing right on the lip to top out on the left-leaning arete.
F R
9. Pratt Face
V0
Climb the center of the face with left-facing holds.
28 29
F R
10. Crank Arete
F R
V8
Climb the rounded arete.
14. JLS Arete
F R
11. Pablo Piccolo
F R
V6
Climb the left side of the face with a high undercling.
15. Armadillo
F R
5.9
Climb the right side of the face with slopey ledges.
16. Unnamed
Climb in the middle of the less-than-vertical face.
5.9
Climb with the ramps.
F R
13. Elegant Gypsy
V4
Climb the thin crack???
F R
12. Pratt Boulder
20
V4
Climb the rounded arete.
F R
V7
17. Unnamed
V0
Step on the small detached rock and climb the arete.
5
Area A
Wine Boulder
24
many boulders
3
23
4
27 26
many boulders
25
22
29
30
26 27
21
20 19
18 17 16
14 13
28
10
2
1
7
5
15
12 11
6
9
8
31
18
5.6
17
4
1
7
2 3
5.6
8
9
5.9
VO+ 24
5.8
23
22
21
19
20
F R
various 5.7-5.9
16
5.8
10
F R
V8
Start standing on the ground with left on undercling and right on the lip. Do hard
move up then mantel slightly to left.
F R
2. Pump 'n' Liv
V2
15. Project
F R
16. Project
V5 R
Start standing on the left. Move up rail right to a jug. Then move back left to top
of fin. (var project) low start.
F R
13
14
15
V
F R
F R
5.7
V
Arete.
Face.
3. Extreme Marine
12
6
1. Denominator
Sit start in slot. Climb up arete using both sides.
11
5
25
4. Stacked
V3
17. Project
V
Mossy slab (will be classic when cleaned).
F R
18. Diagonal
V0
Climb up and left in groove.
Sit start to straight up finish.
F R
5. Dave's Proud Mantle
V0
SDS - Mantle in scoop.
F R
19. Project
V
Mantel starting with right sidepull.
F R
6. Dead Resistance
V7
Start on face. Left on low sidepull right on high sidepull. Go out left to the arete
and then up.
F R
Go Go Gorilla
V4
Right of Dead Resistance. Start on big edge on face and go to top.
F R
20. Project
F R
21. Project
V
Obvious slab.
F R
22. Project
V
Slab (with or without the arete).
F R
8. Low Rail
V
Face or left traversing lip.
F R
7. Project
V
SDS - Start with crimps. Mantel slopey lip.
V0
F R
23. Project
Climb the face with a low rail.
9. Birk Crack
V2
F R
V
Climb mossy face
V
Face.
F R
25. Project
F R
11. Mellow Yellow
F R
24. Project
SDS - Layback crack.
10. Project
V
Face.
F R
V1
V
Slab.
F R
Dyno from jugs to top. Bottom block is off.
26. Rubik's Revenge
F R
12. Project
V10?
Traverse of boulder.
F R
13. Training Bra
V5
Start low on close, slopey holds.
V8
Start Matched on right sidepull. Crank up face and mantel straight up.
(var project) V9? At lip go left to point.
F R
27. Project
V6
Climb left arete.
F R
14. The Fridge
6
V7
Start sitting on right side of boulder. Traverse on two obvious incut rails.
Mantel out left after second rail.
19
Wine Boulder
Ahwahnee Bouldering, Yosemite, California
This topo has been done by Matt Wilder
Redrawned to be in pdf and some details added by drtopo.com
F R
1. The Akward Arete
F R
V5
SDS - Start with a jug and climb the left-leaning arete.
17. Robbin's Crack
F R
This is the authoritative guide to bouldering at the Ahwahnee Boulders in Yosemite National Park. The majority
of these problems were developed during the summer of 1999 by Matt Wilder, Dave Wallach, and Noah
Kaufman. At the beginning of the summer there were approximately 15 established problems in this area. After
a summer of scrubbing and sending new lines there are now about 50+ classic problems and potential for many
more. The Ahwahnee Boulders has become a circuit of its own and should definitely be visited by anyone
interested in Yosemite bouldering. The rock at the Ahwahnees is slightly more featured than at the Camp IV
boulders and definitely a lot less polished. The problems range in difficulty from V0- to V10 with potential for
even harder lines. The majority of the problems are in the V3 to V7 range, making the Ahwahnees a great
circuit for moderately difficult bouldering. Because the Camp IV circuit is lacking in many classic problems in
that range, anyone looking for those should definitely explore the Ahwahnees. There are also several testpiece
problems in this area that will challenge the stronger climbers. As for easy problems, there is high potential, but
many still need to be cleaned up.
2. Cash 'em Up
Climb the friction slab between the ramp and the arete.
Climb the friction slab using the arete to the right.
Climb up and right on the right side of the arete. Top out at the apex
of the boulder.
F R
5. Robbins Layback
V0-
Start on a cheater stone and climb with the left-leaning, right-facing
ramp.
F R
V1
20. Ef Traverse
F R
21. Ver's Werner
22. Red Suede Shoes
Start with slopers at the lip, in a really small "dihedral".
F R
V13
9. Unnamed
V1
Stem in the scoop up to good holds.
23. Blue Suede Shoes
24. Unnamed
F R
25. Unnamed
F R
V1
F R
V7
26. Twinkle Toes
V10
Top rope. Climb to the right-facing hold then up the slab?
F R
V0-V1
27. Rapid Fire
V7
Start with the left-facing flake and climb to the slopey right-facing
ramp.
F R
F R
12. Domini Problem
V1
Climb the arete with quartz like rock.
(page 22)
V3
Climb the arete with good hands but bad feet.
Figure a way up to the good edge then go up and left.
Various mantles.
Area C
V5
Start with two good feet and climb the middle of the slab without
using any holds along the seam.
F R
F R
Area A (page 19)
V6
F R
V11
11. Unnamed
Area D (page 23)
V2
SDS - Start on jugs, long move to another jug, then up on the right
face.
F R
F R
7. Stick It
SDS - Low traverse from left to right on the slopey lip.
(pages 20,21)
V4
Climb up and right on the arete.
Climb the left side of the slab.
Climb the rounded arete by its right side.
10. Leo's Problem
Area B
V
Traverse from right to left on the slopey lip to finish as Duck Hit.
F R
V5
SDS - Start with good holds, up to a squared sloper, a terrible edge
and the lip.
F R
Editor's note : The ratings here seem to be really soft compare to Camp IV. I've modified a few ratings of
problems I've done myself. I would like to hear your opinion on this subject (for one problem in particular or
for the whole area).
19. Unknown
F R
4. Cocaine Corner
V1
Climb the arete by its right side.
F R
V1
8. The Dominator
Matt Wilder
18. Duck Hit
F R
6. Unnamed
Everyone is highly engouraged to boulder in this area, but we ask that climbers stick to the standard valley
bouldering ethics. There should be no chipping or glueing. Wire brushes should only be used to clean first
ascents. Trash should not be left and should be picked up even if it is not yours. Because the boulders are near
one of the major tourist spots in the valley, boulderers must be respectful and not endanger our rights to climb
here. Most of all, use your common sense when bouldering here and enjoy the problems.
F R
V4
3. Initial Friction
5.9
Start on a boulder and climb the flared crack between the boulders.
28. Yo Ho Man
V5
Start with the arete, go to a right-facing sloper then up into the slab.
F R
13. South Face
F R
V0-
Follow the path of least resistance on the tall face with tree branches
at your back.
F R
14. Loyd's One Arm Movie...
V0-
29. Shiver Me Timbers
V5
Start with a high shelf, make a long move to the arete then climb it.
F R
30. Hammerhead
V4
Climb the arete by its right side up to a dyno to the top.
F R
F R
parking
dirt parking
15. Iron Cross Mantle
31. The Other Side
5.8
Climb the crack between the boulders.
F R
16. Hit Man
Ahwahnee Hotel
5.9
V5
Start with right-facing crimps at eye-level, go to more right-facing
holds the right to a jug on the other face.
Lookout for the classics
18
7
Columbia Boulder
The King
F R
1. Left Arete
F R
V2
Climb up and left along the arete.
8
F R
6
2. Unnamed
D
11
9
10
Columbia
Boulder
5
4
3
2
V2
17. So Good
F R
5.8
Face with ledges, just right of a big stump.
1
V0+
Climb the undercut arete by its left side. Hard start.
F R
5. Without A Fro
V3
Use a rock to the left to grab high crimps and climb up and right to
the arete.
F R
6. Peyote
18. St Louis Variation
V5
Start on the small rock, climb up to the hole, then up and left.
19. Crippler
20. Fells Like An Oil Slick
F R
F R
V10
Top rope the tall line with reinforced holds just right of the tree.
8. Unknown
21. Unknown
F R
2. Midnight Lightning
Start with sidepulls, go to good edges, then right to the lightning bolt
hold and right again to the lip and The infamous mantle.
F R
V9
With the right hand on a crimp right of the famous chalk drawing,
step on something to grab a high crimp with your left hand. Go
straight up to The mantle.
F R
4. Moffat Start
F R
10. Wreaker
V3
Traverse the lip from left to right.
F R
V4
Start with a right-facing crimp under the tiny roof and climb straight
up on right-facing holds.
25. Unknown
V1
easy
Start above a leaning tree and go to the lip.
F R
V4
Start on nice edges and climb up and right on the face, avoiding the
small face.
F R
V5
Start as the previous one but climb straight up through the small roof.
F R
13. Break a Leg
F R
13. Unnamed
Climb the right-facing ramp.
F R
V2
Climb up and left with the arete.
Various run and jump problems. The hardest is 6 feet left of the arete.
F R
6. Robbins Problem
unrated
V0
Jump to a big shelf then climb up and left.
12. Did It Up Direct
F R
12. Unnamed
24. Unnamed
F R
V0
V1
F R
V0
11. Did It Up Right
F R
V9
Dirty.
9. Warm Up
Less-than-vertical face with chiped footholds.
Mantle from the pointed lip.
F R
5. Midnight Cowboy
5.8
11. All-Star Movie Mantle
23. Serendipity
Climb the friction, less-than-vertical face.
Climb into the notch.
10. Regular Route
V1
F R
V0
F R
V7?
SDS - Start with sidepulls and make superb moves up and left up to a
mantle.
F R
V9
Jump to a high edge and crank up, then left to The mantle.
7. Bates Problem
9. Don't Make Me Kick
Your Ass
22. Mambo
Climb the arete.
Climb the slab without the aretes.
F R
V8
3. Kauk Start
8. Bingo
hard
SDS - Start on a low edge and dyno to a sloper.
F R
medium
Jump to the high shelf then go to the lip and mantle.
V4
SDS - Start as Crippler and traverse right to finish in the small corner
above the ledge (5.9).
F R
F R
V0
Start on left-facing jugs and climb the short face.
1. After Midnight
V4
SDS - Start on good edges, climb up and right to a slopey shelf, then
up the tall face, just right of the arete.
F R
F R
7. Yeah!
V6
SDS - Start with good slopey edges at the lip of the small, low roof
and traverse left, staying low, to finish on the Crippler.
F R
F R
4. La Jolla Arete
V5
Climb up and right along a thin seam.
F R
3. Green Face
V9
Jump to a wide edge and go slightly left, in the middle of the
overhanging face.
F R
Grab high crimps and climb the face to the arete.
13
12
7
16. Behave
V1
Start with a high jug, mantle into the slab then climb the scooped
face or escape left on the ramp.
F R
14. White Dike
V4
Climb along the obvious vertical dike.
26. Get It Up
V3
Start with the tree at your back and climb up and right to good jugs,
then mantle.
F R
27. Grand Larceny
V5
Climb Get It Up, then traverse right on the horizontal crack. Many
variations.
F R
28. Unnamed
V0-
Climb the slab left of the bulge.
F R
29. Unnamed
V0
Start with a good right-facing edge and climb over the bulge.
F R
15. The King
V8
Start in the overhanging face with nice edges. Climb up.
8
17
Blockhead Area
The King
to Bruce Lee
29
28
25
10
15
11
26,27
12
9
V0 V0
13
V0
5.9
2 1
5,6
14
7,8
F R
3
8. Hungery for More
V7
Start as Higgins Problem and traverse right to climb Blockhead.
F R
9. Blockhead
4
5.9
18
V4
Dynamic start to edges then up and right to sidepulls then up to the
top.
F R
19,20
10. Edge Traverse
V0
Climb up and left on the arete.
16
17
18
F R
11. The Sleeper
V1
Grab a high right-facing flake and mantle over the lip.
F R
23
19
King
Boulder
17
12. Unnamed
F R
13. Candy Ass
F R
24
9
22
16
21
14
Yeah
Boulder
2. Bard Flying Mantle
V3
Start in the middle of the face and traverse right on crimps then
climb the arete.
F R
5.9
F R
15. Bear Hug Mantle
F R
5. Stinkbug
17. Guerin Problem
V7
F R
18. Right Edge
V4
Climb the face with the right arete.
V5
Start with a slopey foot hold and a right palm on a good hold and go
straight up, just left of Higgins Problem.
F R
7. Higgins Problem
from the Hex
V4
Start with sidepulls and go up to the aretes.
Start as Bugged but go left on the sloping lip.
6. Bugged
V3
Climb the face with the left arete.
V9
F R
4
V4
SDS - Start with good sidepulls, throw right hand to another sidepull
then mantle on the lip.
F R
16. Left Edge
F R
4. Plastic Surgery
F R
3
V1
Grab high slopers and mantle just right of the arete.
SDS? - Climb the overhanging face.
6
16
12,11
V9
Start at the right end of the face and traverse left on the slopey lip all
the way to the end.
F R
14. Rock Up Or Mantle
F R
1
2
5
Start on slopers and mantle onto the slab.
Left-facing ramp on the left side of the face.
7
Scrubby
V0
13
V0
3. Back Stabber
8
Spire Traverse
V6
1. Pratt Mantle
10
15
5.9
Start on the rock, grab good holds to the right then mantle.
V4
Start left hand on a good sidepull and climb the rounded face.
F R
19. Spanish Fly
V3
Climb the right side of the mossy face.
9
Falls Trail
The Cathedral Boulder
23
F R
1. Wizzard
V10
Start on a boulder, jump to an edge on the Cathedral Boulder, then
climb straight up.
F R
2. The Cathedral Problem
V5
6
Climb the face just left of the arete with slopey, right-facing edges.
3. Herb
3
2
V3
Climb the arete by its right side.
25
3
7,8
F R
Bachar
Cracker
2
1
4
F R
24
4
5
4. Gunsight
5.9
Climb the middle of the face. This is also the descent.
5. Ray D'Arcy Memorial...
9
10
F R
V3
The
Cathedral
Boulder
1
Climb the right side of the face with slopey edges.
5
F R
6. Toe Licker
13
11
6
7 8
9
5.6
V8
Start with the undercling bump and a sidepull and climb the short
"arete".
F R
7. Full Sail
12
V7
Start with the arete and climb straight up on the tall less-than-vertical
face.
F R
10
8. Norma
V4
Start as Full Sail but climb up and right to a right-facing ramp.
5.8s
F R
9. K-Y Problem
V3
Climb straight up to the left side of the ledge.
F R
10. Shaggy
V2
Start left of the roof and climb along a seam up to the ledge.
18
14
10
22
21
20
19
15-17
15
Cathedral Boulders
The Cathedral is a few degrees colder than Camp IV.
It is usually quiet and you'll find over 50 problems of
various difficulty. The area is not covered by the
shuttle and you will have to take your car. From
Camp IV, drive to El Cap Meadow then make a left
as if you would go back to the village. Just before
you get back to the other one-way road, park your
car on the side of the road. Walk on the one-way
road against the traffic up to the first pullout, on the
left side (you can park there if you want to drive 5
minutes to avoid one minute of walk). From the
pullout, find the trail on your left that goes into the
woods. It might be hard to find the trail, but once
you're deep in the woods, it will become obvious.
Walk on this trail, crossing a bigger trail, for about 5
minutes. Go to the big boulders that will appear on
your left and you're there.
Falls Trail
from Camp IV
and El Cap Meadow
F R
F R
1. project
park here
hard
Start with the slopey knob and mantle into the slab.
F R
2. Unnamed
V0+
Step on the rock to grab a left-facing, rounded flake and go straight
up.
F R
3. Bard Mantle
V4
Start with a slopey lip and go straight up.
14. Unnamed
15. One Move Wonder
F R
16. Corey Variation
F R
V5
Start with sidepulls and go straight up.
17. The Shrimp
V0
Start right of a small left-facing corner and traverse right on the lip.
18. Unnamed
F R
V3 (5)
Climb the overhanging arete up to a shelf on the right face, then go
to a gaston on the left face. The tricky SDS is V5.
F R
7. Gogo Gadget Arm
V1
19. Zschiesche Problem
F R
20. Smear Out
F R
1. Bi-focal
V0
10
13
V3
22. Glass Pyramid Arete
3. The Bogart Traverse
10. Just Hug It
V5
4
Start as #2 then traverse right on the edges under the lip then top out
around the corner.
F R
F R
4. Blunt Arete
11. Unknown
The Hex
V4
SDS - Start with good edges and climb the rounded arete.
14
What's
Next
Boulder
5
F R
5. Sharma Variation
V7
Start on a high jug and traverse right (extended start to #8).
D
15
F R
6. The Hexcentric
V8
SDS - Start as #6 and traverse right to climb #9.
25. Unnamed
V4
Climb the face with the arete and left-facing edges.
F R
V1
SDS - Start with the boulder underneath and climb the roof with the
left-facing corner.
F R
V5
V4
F R
13. Who Knows
V3
SDS - Start on big slopey shelf and climb straight up.
F R
V7
Climb the steep face along a seam, up to a slopey shelf.
F R
10. Ladder Detail
V4
Climb the rounded arete by the trail.
Start with crimps and climb the undercut slab with a big "bulge".
SDS - Start as #6 and traverse right to climb #10.
9. The Octagon
F R
24. Woodward Arete
F R
V0+
Grab the lip and mantle.
13. Chapman Overhang
medium
12. Bottomless Face
F R
8. Fat Man Traverse
2,3
1
V8
Grab a high edge and climb in the right-facing corner.
SDS - Start on jugs and climb the overhanging face with the arete.
F R
7. Octagon Traverse
23. King Cobra
F R
12. Unnamed
F R
11. Unknown
hard
SDS - Start with slopers and go up and left to Just Hug It.
5.8
V6
Climb the steep face just right of the tree.
V0
Start left hand with a good sidepull and climb the short face with
slopers.
F R
6-8
5.9
Climb the arete any way you want.
F R
F R
V1
The right side of the slab.
F R
V8
Super thin less-than-vertical face left of the crack.
9
D
Start just right of #1 and climb the arete.
21. Glass Pyramid Face
F R
9. Kauk Face
V4
F R
V0
Step on a small rock to grab a slopey shelf and go straight up.
12
Start with a good jug for your feet and climb the face right of the
tree.
F R
2. What's Next
8. Easy Going
11
V3
The left side of the slab.
The middle of the slab.
Climb the scooped face just right of the arete.
F R
V0+
Start on the big detached block and traverse right to the arete.
F R
6. Ament Arete
V4
Start as One Move Wonder but go right around the arete and climb
the right face.
F R
F R
5. Unnamed
The King
V3
Start as One Move Wonder but go up with the arete and a heel hook.
4. The Missing Link
The Cathedral
Boulder
V8
Start on a good edge and dyno to the top.
F R
The
Hex
V5
SDS - Start with sidepulls, pull into the face and go up with tiny
crimps.
F R
5.9
Jump start to a diagonal shelf and up with jugs. This is also the
descent.
F R
14. "X"
V10
Start with a good edge, go to a right-facing undercling ramp, then up
on the steep face, just left of the arete.
F R
15. Hard Headed Arete
V1
Climb up and left on the tall arete.
14
11
Energy Boulder
5
6
Thriller
7
8
9
10
5.8
11
8
16
19
17
9
10
7
18
15
20
14
5,6
24,
23
21
22
3,4
12 13
Energy
Boulder
1
2
F R
13. Unnamed
3
5.7
Start just left of the arete, go to a short left-facing flake, then to the
top.
F R
4
14. Shortie
F R
1. Unnamed
1
V3
SDS - Start with a low undercling, then climb up and right on the
arete.
F R
2
to Ament
Arete
2. Kor Face
3. Klingon
V7
Start on right-facing crimps, go left to a right-facing "flake" then up
to a slopey ledge.
F R
5. Unnamed
F R
F R
V8
Start on the left side of the rounded, undercut arete and climb it to
jugs on the right face. You may need a few pads to reach the first
footholds.
F R
2. Jackie Chan
V10
Start in the scoop with a small left-facing corner and traverse right to
climb Bruce Lee.
F R
3. Sharma Variation
V10
Start on the flake, go left to a good edge then left to climb Fat Weasel
(extended start and finish of Fat Weasel).
F R
4. Rail Traverse
V3
Start on the rock and traverse the lip from left to right.
V7
Start as the previous one but traverse left in the thin cracks to top out
left of Hard Time.
F R
7. Hard Time
V5
Start with high, bad holds in the horizontal crack and go straight to
the top.
F R
8. Kumba
V8
Start with good holds in the horizontal crack then go straight to the
lip.
F R
8. Largo Lunge
10. Oak Leaf Arete
V0
Many variations with right-leaning, left-facing edge system.
V0-
Tall, scooped face.
Less-than-vertical face.
10. Unnamed
F R
19. The Rebirth Canal
weird
Start on the top of the boulder, chimney down then turn around to
dive head first and have knee bars above your head. Slide down, then
work your way to traverse and exit on the other side of where the
boulders touch. Be sure to try this problem at night, in approach
shoes, with a bunch of people and after a few (or many) drinks.
F R
20. One-arm-push-up mantel
V4
SDS - Start with slopers, throw left to a good edge then mantle onto
the slab.
F R
21. Unnamed
V3
Without using the good feet to the left, go to the sloping edge and up
the face.
F R
11. Jump Mantel
V3
F R
23. The Force
V11
Start as Thriller but go left then up in the black streak.
5.9
Start on a flat rock, jump to the good lip then mantle.
F R
12
hard
Start with edges and climb the arete with bad slopers.
V0
F R
12. Unknown
18. Unknown
Climb the rounded arete by its left side.
Start with a high edge and pull over the small bulge.
Climb up and right with the arete.
V5
Start on a small rock and climb the offset, right-facing seam up to a
sloping shelf.
F R
22. Unnamed
F R
V3
F R
V0
Start on a jug and traverse right along the horizontal crack.
9. Unnamed
V5
F R
V0
7. Jimi Hendrix Experience
F R
F R
9. Unnamed
V3
SDS - Start on a jug at the bottom of the cave and climb the crack to
more jugs, then top out.
F R
Thin, less-than-vertical face with a slopey bump.
F R
5. Unnamed
6. Bachar Cracker
F R
6. Fat Weasel
medium
Climb with 2 big offset right-facing seams.
V0
Start in the horizontal crack, make a long reach to the lip and mantle.
1. Bruce Lee
F R
16. Unknown
17. Swamp Thing
F R
4. Kauk-a-holic
hard
Start with tiny crimps and go to the top.
V5
Climb the slopey arete up to an undercling flake.
to Bear Hug
15. Unknown
V3
Start with a good right-facing crimp and go up to a left-facing crimp
system.
F R
V7
Start with a good foot and a left-facing crimp and go to a rounded
finish.
F R
medium
SDS - Start on a good edge, climb up and left with small crimps to a
right-facing hold, then the top.
F R
24. Thriller
V9
Start on a small rock to grab the first holds. Climb up, then right to
sidepulls and up to small crimps.
13