Customized T-Shirts for The Whole Woman by Christine Ann Kent President Whole Woman Inc. www.wholewoman.com © Photos and text copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. Customized T-Shirts for the Whole Woman T-shirts are such a fun and expressive art form, if only they weren’t so boxy and baggy! Now you can wear t-shirts that express the inner you AND look great at the same time. Here’s how: The Shirt Find that perfect unisex t-shirt. Shirts sized for women won’t work for this project, as they are already somewhat fitted and usually cut too short. The only fit requirement is that it be large enough in the hips to go comfortably over a skirt or pair of pants. Shop for a woven cotton fabric that goes well with your shirt and also matches the skirt or pants of your choice. The patterns for the skirts in these pictures are from Simplicity #4331. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 1 Sleeves Iron the shirt, making sure the sides are aligned at right angles to the underarm seams. Cap the sleeves by marking 2¾ inches out from the top of the shoulder seam and 1¼ inch out from the underarm seam. Connect these with a chalk line and cut along the line. Make a narrow hem in the sleeve by folding under ¼ inch. Press, fold under again ½ inch, press, and pin. Sew hem in place with decorative or stretch stitch. Hem Try the shirt on with the accompanying skirt or pants and decide exactly where the finished length should be. Mark with chalk. Add 1¼ inch to this length and mark all the way around circumference of shirt. Cut off the bottom of the shirt. Make a narrow hem by folding over ¼ inch. Press, fold over ½ inch, press again and stitch. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 2 Belt Loops To make belt loops from the piece that you just cut from the bottom, cut through the circle to make a long strip. Leave the finished hem as it is and cut the strip to include ⅜ inch of shirt material as well as the finished edge. Fold in the selvage edge to the middle of the strip and press. Fold the finished edge over the selvage and press. Pin the strip, which is now folded neatly in half, and sew in place using a locking stitch. Cut the strip into pieces for belt loops. The length of the loops will depend upon the width of the belt you plan to wear. To determine how long to cut the loops, measure the strip all the way around the width of your belt and add ⅜ inch. I use the same 4½ inches for all my belt loops. Set the loops aside. Neck Carefully remove the crew neck by cutting along the seam line. Cut a strip of bias fabric 1¼ inch wide and long enough to go around the neck with several inches to spare for working ease. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 3 To find the bias, or diagonal of the fabric, fold one long edge up and across the fabric into a right angle as shown. Mark with a ruler and cut the strip. If you must make two shorter strips, butt them together at the ends, sew, trim the corners and press seam flat. Press under 3/8 inch along one long edge of strip. Beginning at the back of the neck on the WRONG side of shirt, place the RIGHT side of strip at center back, leaving about 2 inches of strip at the beginning. In other words, don’t begin sewing at the end of the strip, but about 2 inches in. Sew a ½ inch seam around the neck, being careful to keep shirt and strip edges even. End stitching about ¼ inch away from beginning stitching. Grasp the ends of the strip and sew them together crosswise being careful not to catch the shirt in the seam. Trim seam to ½ inch, trim corners, and iron flat. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 4 Trim neck seam to a scant ¼ inch all the way around and press seam toward strip. Turn shirt right side out and fold strip to the OUTSIDE and press. Sew in place using a decorative stitch. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 5 Darts Make darts on the WRONG side of shirt back. The following instructions are for one of my shirts, however the size of the darts are going to vary with each individual. To determine the size your darts should be, try on your shirt inside-out and have someone pin them roughly into place as you look in the mirror for the right fit. You can then carefully measure and draw them. First find center back by folding shirt in half lengthwise matching shoulder and underarm seams. Press fold with iron. Mark entire length of center back with chalk. Make a line across the back of the shirt about an inch beneath the underarm seams. Measure 4½ inches from center on both sides of horizontal line and make a dot. From the 4½ inch mark on either side of center, make a 10 inch vertical line and mark with dot. If your shirt has a design on the back, move the vertical lines out to the sides as needed. The darts in the shirt to the right are seven inches from center. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 6 Find the center of this line (five inches) and mark an inch on either side with a dot. Connect the dots with chalk to form a long triangle. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 7 Pin the dart together along its center line and sew. Even though the chalk line makes an angle at the middle of the dart, round out your stitching to form a curve rather than a sharp angle. Trim seam allowance to about ¼ inch. Finishing To find placement for belt loops, try on the shirt and place the belt exactly where you want it. Draw with chalk all the way around the outline of the belt. Measure for belt loops from center front and back and sides of shirt. I typically sew six loops spaced evenly. Mark with chalk. Place one end of loop in the middle of belt marking (where the middle of the belt would be). Sew the loop down with zigzag stitch. Lift up the presser foot and without moving the threads, slip the other end of the loop under the foot alongside previous stitching, forming a circle. Lower the foot and continue to zigzag that end in place. Continue with all the loops. Iron the loops flat. With a straight stitch, sew them down on the outside a scant 1/8 inch from either end. Voila! I hope you have fun wearing your customized tee. © Copyright 2006 by Christine Ann Kent. All rights reserved. 8
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